If you need a wooden mallet, but you only have basic set tools - this article is just for you. All you need is a saw, a clamp, some wood glue and sandpaper. If you have a miter saw, drill, and router, that's great because they can come in handy for finishing, but they're not absolutely necessary. Ready? Then go ahead!
Wooden mallet: necessary materials
Mallets are usually made from hardwood, but you can use whatever you like. Wood of contrasting colors will look beautiful. We will use meranti and white oak.
Since our mallet will be made according to the “sandwich” principle, everything wooden elements must be the same thickness. In our case it is 20 mm, but 25 or 30 mm will do if you prefer.
- handle: 320×35 mm (and 20 mm thick) made of oak;
- firing pin: 500×70×20 mm;
- dowels (optional): 2 elements with a diameter of 9 mm and a length of 70 mm.
Wooden mallet: necessary tools
Necessarily:
- saw;
- pencil;
- ruler;
- clamps.
Optional:
- a template in the shape of a square or just a right angle;
- Miter saw;
- milling cutter;
- drill.
Cutting out the elements of the future mallet
We cut out the elements from wood to the required size. Choose the width of the handle so that the future mallet is as comfortable as possible for you (we will have 35 mm). The same applies to the length (we will have 320 mm). For the striker, we cut out two elements 140 mm wide and two elements 60 mm wide.
We connect the elements of the mallet together
Make sure that all elements have a smooth and even surface at the junction points. Place one of the wide pieces for the striker on a small piece of wood (this is necessary so that the clamp does not leave marks on the face of the striker). All other parts of the mallet will be attached to this element.
Place the handle on it strictly in the center and at a right angle using a ruler. Once you find the desired position, secure it with a clamp. Make notes with a pencil in case the clip comes off (but try not to let that happen).
Apply a thick layer of wood glue to the inner surface of the element on one side of the handle. Glue a short striker element to it, remembering to ensure that all corners are right. The edge will stick out, but that's okay - we'll cut it off later. Secure this part securely with a clamp. Remove excess glue with a rag.
Now detach the handle, apply glue to it and glue it in place. You can make the handle stick out from the firing pin. We'll make sure it's flush. Make sure that all angles are right and the handle is exactly in the middle.
Take the second short element of the striker and do the same with it as with the first. Make sure that all elements are at the same level at the top and bottom, and that the handle fits snugly against them.
Let the glue dry, leaving the product for 24 hours. Check that the inner surface is smooth and level. If necessary, use sandpaper. Glue the second long element of the striker and secure it with a clamp. Be sure to reuse a piece of scrap wood to avoid damaging the front surface.
Intermediate result
And so, we should end up with an unsightly mallet with protruding edges. We need to fix this!
Step you can skip
We will also cut the dowels into the head of our mallet. They do not perform any function other than decorative. When it comes to wood, glue provides a stronger connection than dowels, so they won’t make a difference. But they look beautiful! Drill holes through the striker, apply glue to the dowels and cut them into the striker. After the glue has dried, cut them flush.
And one more step that you can skip
Often, mallets have a handle that sticks out, but we make it flush. Therefore, cut off the end of the handle that protrudes from the other side of the firing pin.
We give the mallet striker the required angle
The angle of the striker should be such that its surface is approximately parallel to your hand when you hold the mallet in it. You can choose the angle that is convenient for you or simply make 4 degrees, as in our article. Can be used miter saw, but manual will also do. The main thing is to make marks in advance and cut carefully. If you don't have a protractor, just find and print out any protractor online, then use it as a stencil.
Bringing the surface of the mallet to perfection
Sand the mallet with sandpaper. Admire the work done. If you have a router, you can create smooth curves on the handle at the grip area. If you don't have a router, you can simply sand the edges. You can also make a curve at the end of the handle. Overall, give your piece the look you want.
Treating the surface
Mix beeswax And mineral oil and process the product. Our homemade mallet is ready! Now you have a convenient and beautiful handmade tool. Try it out at work!
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Mallet. "Clapper." It would seem that it could be simpler. Handle with a blank, stab. But no, there are many types of mallets. The most successful form is the “grenade”. Knock with any end, not like a hammer. And people came up with mallets not just anyhow, but with goals:
Make the carver's work convenient and enjoyable
To exclude, if possible, professional diseases of cutters associated with shock load on the hands and wrists
Increase the service life of both mallets and chisels
For example, a mallet can be wooden and beautiful:
But after a few months of work, all this beauty turns into something like this:
There are also mallets dressed in bronze - so that the blow is more powerful:
Nice mallet! Wonderful! But is it necessary to show what the handles of chisels turn into? Only chisels reinforced with metal rings can withstand the blows of such a sledgehammer...
Or, it would also seem like a good solution - a rubber head.
But.. it bounces off the chisel handle too much when hit...
Mikhail Ilyaev works with Stepan Erzya's mallet, made from Quebracho, the heaviest wood in Argentina:
Mikhail told Funny case. One mischievous neighbor, an old lady, began to complain about him “to the right places” for the constant knocking on the balcony. Mikhail got upset and began to look for compromises. Here's one of them. The rubber pads from the crutches came into play, I put them on the handle with a stretch and the chiselling became more subdued:
What happened next was even more detective! As Ilyaev says, it was as if God heard him: that evil neighbor soon left his house, and in her place settled a DEAF INTELLIGENT OLD WOMAN, with whom Mikhail became friends. Such miracles...
The perfect solution
Forum discussion was used in preparing this article:
http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php/topic,317.0.html
The product itself is an inertia-free mallet from Vladimir Zhukov. Assembled from hand-selected wood. Oak and plum (cherry). The whole process is in the photo. I needed a heavy mallet with a short handle.
First, a blank for the head of the mallet is glued together from the blocks. Plates are laid between the parts bog oak(veneer). The gluing was done at the "joiner" moment.
After the glue has dried and the sander has given it a more rectangular shape, a Forstner cutter is used to select through holes that connect to each other. 
We clean them up oval shape and fill it with lead shot. From below you can see that another flat part is being glued in (exactly the same one will close the cavity on top) 
We also glue the ends with plugs. The shape of the blank is first roughly given with a plane, and then finished using a grinder. 
The handle is exactly the same sandwich (in the part held by the hand) at the junction with the “head” it has rectangular section. For wedging, two cuts should be made; to protect against splitting, they end with holes. 
The handle is placed on the glue, wedged and, after final gluing, it is sanded again, this time by hand. 
Finishing treatment - coating with AQUATEX balm colorless oil 
Learned a real man's rattle! Its weight was 827 grams. When struck, it does not rebound upon impact and, despite its small dimensions, has a large weight.
The feeling when working is approximately like slapping your palm on asphalt or wet clay.
In general, the thing turned out to be not only functional and comfortable, but also stylish. 
I made this hammer a couple of years ago. It was necessary because I had to tap each paving slabs. It softens blows, something like a rubber hammer. Only a hammer made of rubber does not last long. Since it is not made from rubber, as it should be, at least with the addition of it.
Of course, you can’t boast about the design, but nevertheless, the quality of this hammer is good.
The old mallet (pictured) has become unusable! The wood has already cracked and dried out from long use. It was urgently necessary to replace it with a new one. I drew a model of the future mallet on the computer, printed the picture on paper and got to work.
Step 1: Materials and Tools
For this project we will need several pieces of wood. This a great opportunity use unnecessary waste wood. Many of my friends don't give waste a chance to be useful, it just ends up either in the trash or burned like firewood.
I am not a master carpenter, but I think anyone can do this with a hammer.
You will need:
- Saw;
- Wood glue;
- Some clamps
I used a circular saw. I think that it is the fastest way to cut pieces of wood. After cutting, take sandpaper and clean the sides.
Step 2: Cut it out
Everyone chooses the size of the mallet at their own discretion. This is not critical. Everyone can also design a hammer independently and to suit their own tastes.
I made my handle length 350mm. Handle width 40 mm. at one end and at the other 30 mm. You can easily achieve such sizes when you have table saw. WITH hand saw It will be a little difficult, but everything is possible.
Step 3: Assembling
We place the handle exactly in the middle of one of the 120x90 mm pieces, so that 25 mm is from the thickest side of the end of the handle. It should protrude slightly from the overall head of the hammer. Now we glue all the cut pieces together (Visible in the photo). Don't forget to take out the hammer handle, it should not stick with the hammer.
Use clamps to secure the hammer for better gluing of all parts of the hammer. In places where glue has leaked, remove it. We also clean the glue in the hole where the hammer handle goes in. Before complete drying, you must leave our structure for at least 30 minutes. Somewhat reminiscent of the layers of a sandwich and the condiments oozing out of it. It will, of course, look terrible, but next stages magic will happen.
Step 4: Processing the Hammer
Now that you have the hammer (head) and everything is firmly glued together, it's time to make it even more beautiful. I made cuts on the hammer handle in order to cut out small indentations later. This will make it easier for the handle to lie in your hand, and then pleasant work with the mallet.
Let's take a pen and cut out the recesses mentioned above. We process the corners of the handle, making them more sloping (rounded). If your handle is too long, cut it off.
After the work has been done, insert the handle into the hammer.
Step 5: Trimming and Refinishing
We sand all the irregularities on the handle for more smooth surface and avoid future splinters in the hand. I drilled a hole at the end of the handle so that I could store it hanging in the future.
Step 6: Finished mallet hammer
If you want to glue the handle to your head, you can do so, but I didn’t do this, it’s not going anywhere for me anyway.
I look forward to your comments, dear friends!
In general, now there is a large selection of mallets; purchased white rubber mallets are excellent for the job. White because it does not leave black spots from use. I have one like this. I also have another homemade one, made from a pillow from a truck. In general, I have a total of more than 25 hammers, sledgehammers and mallets.
But I am of the opinion that it is more pleasant to work with a beautiful instrument. And I decided to make myself a beautiful mahogany mallet. Well, why not? Some will say that this is foppishness, but I enjoy working in the workshop. If lace on a mallet brought me pleasure, I would attach it :)
Some people will be outraged by this, guys, you won’t be nice to everyone. Yes, I use hand tools.
I decided to make the handle from a stick from an oak pallet, and decorate the headband with sapele. A drawing was downloaded from the Internet
It's not that I don't have anything to make a handle out of, but first I need to look at the grain of the wood. Someone told me it was like Japanese oak. I haven’t been to Japan, I won’t say.
I cut oak and sapele into rough cuts.
I cut it and forward, with a plane. I have both a surface planer and a jointer (it’s dangerous to approach it with such wood chips), but I do it for my own pleasure, right?
I will have sapele around the edges, and the same oak inside. We assemble the block with glue. The handle is made on a reverse wedge, i.e. When working it will only shrink more tightly. The handle doesn't stick.
Now, using a chisel and a plane, we form the bevels, and also knock down the chamfers.
I decided to glue strips of veneer onto the handle, otherwise it looks a little rustic + there is a mark from a nail. The stick is from a pallet. Then I chamfered the handle so that it would fit in my hand.
And here is our result after coating with oil.
I use a mallet. It fits well in the hand, you take it right away, your hands feel the orientation of the striking part due to the rectangular handle.