Laying a stove with your own hands. How to properly build a brick oven

Heating a home in winter time using stove heating is suitable for those who have Vacation home. This heating method is not very suitable for apartments. Unfortunately, it will be quite difficult to build a stove with your own hands, but by carefully studying the laying diagrams of brick stoves, it is possible. If you want to save your time, it is better to turn to a professional in this matter - a stove maker. He will tell you which masonry is suitable in a particular case.

Main types and structure of brick kilns

1. Gate valve;
2. Cast iron stove;
3. Cleaning door;
4. Oven;
5. Firebox door;
6. Blower door.

There are two main types of brick kilns:

Heating stoves. The brickwork layout of the heating stove is very simple, which is why installation does not take much time. They are intended only for heating the room.
The most common and popular type of stoves is heating and cooking stoves. They allow you to both heat the house and cook food.

There are many schemes for bricklaying stoves. The main design elements of any furnace are:

Firebox– where the fuel used to heat the house is loaded. The dimensions of the firebox depend on what fuel will be used. For its installation, only fire-resistant bricks are used, since they are in direct contact with fire.
Chimney– designed to remove smoke and gases that are formed during the combustion process. Its design should not have a large number of bends; if possible, it is better to make it completely vertical. The fewer bends, the better the room is heated.
Ash pan chamber or ash pit- also one of the important parts of the furnace design. Ash, a product of burning wood and coal, accumulates in the ash pan. Through the ash pan, air enters the firebox, as a result of which the draft improves, and hence the quality of heating of the home. The ash pan chamber is located under the firebox and has a separate door for easy cleaning of ash.

The design of a heating and cooking stove is characterized by the presence hob or even an oven.

Sauna stove: masonry features

Drawings of brick sauna stoves are usually drawn up for specific cases. The dimensions of such stoves directly depend on the size of the room in which they will be installed.

A distinctive feature of the design of a sauna stove is the presence of a heater. This is a special compartment in the oven, with a lid through which water is supplied and stones are laid. The procedure for laying stoves with your own hands should be discussed with a professional, because for sauna stoves safety comes first

1 - brick oven on a separate foundation,
2 - firebox, 3 - boiler with water, 4 - backfill of boulders (heater), 5 - valve, 6 - door for supply, 7 - shelves, 8 - leaking wooden floor (planks, logs) on waterproof beams.

When choosing a project, it is necessary to take into account some features in the design of sauna stoves:

Firebox in sauna stove Definitely need a large size. The ash door and it itself must be large to ensure good air flow into the firebox.
The grate bars need to be laid along the blower channel for better traction. But due to the difficulty of purchasing long grate bars, most often you have to buy small grate bars and lay them across.
If flammable structures in the bathhouse are not protected by fireproof materials, the distance from them to the stove should be more than 30 cm.
If the heater is located above the firebox, the height of the latter should be at least 55 cm. This is necessary for better heating of the stones.
Before laying a brick sauna stove on the mortar, it is better to lay the rows dry first. And only after they have been leveled, use the mixture for masonry.
The horizontality and verticality of the masonry can be checked using a level. If minimal deviations in the masonry are found, they need to be corrected.
All doors must be properly secured. For this purpose, during installation, steel wire is used, which is attached to specially made recesses in the bricks.
The area where the chimney pipe passes through the ceiling or wall must be insulated with fire-resistant material.
When mixing the mixture for masonry, only high-quality clay and fine sand are used.

Square oven with bottom heating

A distinctive feature of the design of a square stove with bottom heating is that the height of the fuel compartment is relatively high. On both sides of the firebox, two voids are symmetrically located for the release of gases into chambers located on the side, in the outer walls of the furnace. From these chambers, gases enter the risers and then rise upward, where the cavities form an upper cap, consisting of three U-shaped cavities. These cameras are located parallel to each other.

In the upper section of the rear and middle cavities, heated air is retained, and cooled combustion products are discharged through special openings into the cavity, which is connected to the chimney. After which they are taken outside.

To heat the room with the stove of this device, you can use any type of coal and firewood. But, when using coal and anthracite, the walls of the firebox must be laid from fire-resistant bricks.

The layout of a stove with bottom heating consists of 3 hoods: an upper section and 2 large cavities.

Masonry and design features of the furnace V. E. Grum-Grzhimailo

Furnace designed by V.E. Grum-Grzhimailo.

A special feature of the design of the V. E. Grum-Grzhimailo furnace is that it has the shape of a cylinder and is enclosed in a steel case. There is no circulation of gases in it. The movement of gases in such a furnace occurs under the influence of gravity, and not by draft. Heavy cold gases go down, and light heated gases go up.

The design of this furnace consists of two parts:

The upper chamber in which smoke does not circulate. It is similar to an inverted glass or cap. Therefore, these furnaces are called ductless and bell-type.
The lower section is a firebox, in the roof of which there is a hole (higho) for venting smoke and gases into the upper section.

Heated flue gases do not move from the high to the chimney; they reach the ceiling, and after they cool down, they fall down to the base of the firebox. From there they will go into the chimney and out.

Do-it-yourself brickwork for this stove is quite simple. The advantage of the V. E. Grum-Grzhimailo stove is that it takes a long time to cool and uses 80% of the heat that produces fuel during combustion.

For the furnace designed by V. E. Grum-Grzhimailo, anthracite and lean hard coal are most suitable as fuel. When using wood fuel, the cracks between the buttresses become clogged with soot. Cleaning soot is a rather complicated process, because through the cleaning doors it is difficult to reach into all the cracks.

Two-tier stove for the home: masonry and features

Layout diagram for a two-tier oven for a home. Typical.

A two-tier oven is essentially two identical ovens located one above the other. To facilitate the design and save materials, empty chambers are laid out between the furnaces. The masonry that fills the gap between the two structures serves as the foundation for the upper one.

The stove chimney pipe, which is located at the bottom, passes through the top one, so its heating area is slightly smaller. The chimney of the upper stove is removed separately. Laying a two-tier oven is quite simple to do. The doors for cleaning furnaces from soot are located: at the back - in the lower structure, and in the side wall - in the upper structure. As fuel, it is best to use anthracite or hard coal.

When covering the top of empty chambers, a reinforced concrete slab is often used. Due to this, the level of strength and stability of the structure increases. Laying bricks for the stove must be done very carefully. After all, in the event of a malfunction, repairs will be difficult.

A two-tier stove is ideal for a two-story country house. For its design, you can use stove diagrams that are made in the form of a square or rectangle.
Video instructions for laying a two-tier stove

What is best to use for masonry: materials and tools

Tools for laying stoves: a - mrlotok-pick;
b - furnace hammer; c - rule; g - wooden shovel;
d - building level; e - wash brush; g - pliers;
z - cycle; and - snitch; k - scriber; l - rasp;
m - square; n - plumb line; o - sledgehammer; p - chisel;
p - trowel; c - jointing

In most cases, refractory fireclay bricks are used to lay out furnaces. Its main advantage over other bricks is that, although it takes a long time to heat up, it retains heat for a very long time. This allows the room to warm up evenly and maintains a constant temperature in it.

When doing this, the main thing is to pay attention to the quality of the material. If a brick is fired too much, its fire resistance and quality are reduced. This type of brick is best used for laying out the base of the furnace. It is not very suitable for a firebox, since heat exchange will be disrupted.

But, fireclay bricks are best suited for laying out parts that are in direct contact with fire. As facing material will do ceramic brick.

Sand-lime bricks cannot be used to lay the structure. It does not adhere to the solution, and under thermal loads it absorbs moisture.

Brick laying technology is not complicated. Good enough to be able to fold the stove yourself, or ask a specialist for help.

The clay, brick and sand used for masonry must be of very high quality. After all, a stove is a device that is created using long years, and its use should not be flammable.

Tools needed for masonry brick construction :

Trowel for laying out mortar.
Hammer-pick, for leveling and splitting bricks, if necessary.
Shovel for mixing mortar.
Grooves for aligning convex and concave seams.
An ordering tool for checking the evenness of laying rows of bricks.

Basic principles of masonry brick structures:

Bricks need to be laid only one at a time. For inexperienced people, it is better to lay out a row without a solution and only then use the mixture.
Each brick is thoroughly cleaned of dust and crumbs using a brush.
For better adhesion of the solution, the ceramic brick is dipped briefly in water.
Fireclay bricks should never be wetted with water!
After laying, the brick cannot be moved or tapped, so it must be laid in one confident movement.
If it is not possible to lay the brick right away, then it is removed and the mortar is cleaned.
The solution that has been cleaned can no longer be used.

Now more and more people are choosing stoves in their homes. This is due, first of all, to the cost-effectiveness of this heating method. It is in pursuit of fuel economy and better heat transfer that more and more new stove designs are being created. The most important thing is to carefully study and choose a scheme that is suitable for your particular home.

The disadvantage of the stove is the need to constantly maintain combustion or smoldering in the firebox. But, when using quality materials and choosing the right scheme that is suitable for your home, the need for constantly adding fuel is significantly reduced. Another disadvantage is the inability to use the stove in the summer for cooking.

There are many options for stoves for cottages and houses. Some of them involve financial expenses, others require direct hands. What should we do for those who have not succeeded either with money or with skill? A simple one will help brick stove, which even a “humanitarian” can put together.

The article discusses two options. The first one is suitable for those who want more or less “decent” heating and cooking equipment. The second will be useful to readers who generally do not pretend to be either a penchant for handicraft or any kind of aesthetics of the result.

Figure 1. Simple brick oven

How to make a simple but effective stove?

This option can serve as an alternative to the simplest metal heating devices - for example, a potbelly stove. With the help of this stove you can heat the room, cook food, and even admire the flames.

The structure occupies just over half square meter. Unlike full-fledged brick ovens, this one does not require. The weight of the structure is not so great as to make a strong base - it is enough to lay a strong board.

The oven can be made in just a day. One of the advantages of this option is that starting heating is possible in the evening. Certain skills are necessary, but they do not go beyond the skills of the average male.

On a note! No qualifications are required to build stoves. But it is necessary to maintain order - this will make the design as effective as possible in the context of its potential.

What will you need for the job?

It is not only simple, but also a budget option. To build the structure you will need:

brick:
*fireclay – 37 pcs.;
*red – 60 pcs.;
ash door;
firebox door;
lattice;
valve;
hob made of cast iron.

Clay solution is used as a binder. In total you will need about 20-25 liters of the mixture.

It will also be interesting: - types and characteristics.

Preparation

The first step is to decide on the location of the stove. Since the mass of the structure is small, there are no limitations inherent in traditional brick solutions. By securing strong boards or a suitable alternative material, the “foundation” is thermally and waterproofed.

Non-flammable material can play the role of an insulator - for example, basalt wool. Polyethylene or roofing felt is placed on top of the base. The size of the latter corresponds to the dimensions of the base plus a small allowance.

A layer of sand 1-2 cm thick is poured on top. The bedding is leveled. It is important to make the base level - the quality of the design and the convenience of subsequent work depend on this.

Masonry scheme

Figure 2. Order of the stove masonry

The oven order is as follows:

The first row is laid on sand without using a solution. A dozen bricks are leveled strictly. The bricks are coated with a thin layer of the mixture, after which the blower door is mounted at the end. The door is pre-wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord, which compensates for the thermal expansion of the metal.
After fixing the door with wire, lay the second row according to the diagram. Form a ash pit.
Fireclay is used (in the diagram it has a yellow tint). After laying, a grate is installed above the ash pit.
Before this, bricks were laid flat. On this row it is placed on its edge. A smoke exhaust channel is formed, inside which a base for the partition is made. One of the bricks (seen in the illustration) is laid “dry” - it will later be removed. After this, the firebox door is installed, which is wrapped several times with asbestos strips before installation. But this must be done so that the door opens well to the top. The element is fixed with wire and a pair of bricks.
The brick is laid flat again, duplicating the previous row.
Again the turn of the “ribs” is the second and the last row, in which the brick is laid in this way. The exception is the next row, in which one of the walls is formed by laying on edge. The walls of the chimney channel should be wiped with a damp cloth.
The brick is laid flat according to the diagram. The back wall is made using the edge-on format again.
This row closes the firebox. A couple of bricks should hang over the firebox so that the flame moves to the middle hob– in case the stove will be used as a fireplace (without closing the firebox door).
The bricks are moved slightly towards the back wall to support the firebox door. Before brickwork lay strips of asbestos soaked in water. Thanks to this, they ensure sealing of the gap between ceramics and cast iron. A cast iron panel cannot be placed directly on a clay solution, otherwise the difference in the thermal expansion parameters of the materials will lead to the appearance of cracks.
At this stage, the formation of the smoke exhaust pipe begins. The latter, according to the plan, should gradually expand towards the back side. But only the chimney base is made of brick. The rest is made of light metal. Otherwise, the excess mass of the element may lead to a shift in the center of gravity of the stove.
A valve sealed with asbestos strips is installed here. It is recommended to pre-coat the latter clay mortar. This is the final row, which is used to complete the construction of a brick oven directly with your own hands. The remaining couple of rows are given to the chimney, which will then be connected to a lighter metal channel.

After this, those bricks that were laid “dry” on the 4th row are removed. At the same stage, the smoke exhaust duct and the surface of the stove are cleaned of construction debris.

Final works

The simplest stove does not require serious decorations. The only decoration is whitewashing. It is recommended to add a little blue and milk to the composition - this will protect the coating from the formation of a yellow coating and bleaching.

Important! Brick and metal should be protected before work. If this is not done (for example, using film), you will not be able to get rid of the stains.

It is necessary to coat the seams between the brick and the metal of the chimney very well, as well as the seams between the ceramics and cast iron.

It is imperative to close the joint between stove brick and the floor. This will prevent oven sand from getting into the room. It is advisable to cover the joint with an L-shaped sheet. Then they make a plinth edging, which serves as both decor and additional element, preventing the “foundation” bedding from spilling out.

Figure 3. Functioning oven

The stove is ready. The entire process took no more than one working day. Now you can try to make a low-power one. You cannot use logs - only wood chips or paper. Wood burning will create too high a temperature and the structure will crack. For the mixture to fully set, you need to give it a week or two. After this, you can already heat it “like an adult.”

This is interesting: ? Review of 10 options.

An even simpler version of the stove

If the previous option seemed complicated to someone (although it is not), you can offer an extremely simplified heating structure. You can lay out this oven with your own hands in literally an hour, even if your hands are far from being called golden.

Figure 4. The simplest version of a brick oven

The operating principle of the structure is simple. Solid fuel burns below, and settles here under the influence of its own mass. Temperature changes create a draft that carries hot air currents upward. In this case, the firewood burns almost without a residue - the smoke is minimal.

For masonry you will need only two dozen whole bricks and two halves. The stove consists of five rows. The design is so simple that there is no point in describing the order. The procedure is clearly shown in the illustration.

Figure 5. Order of the simplest brick structure

If you lay the bricks correctly (and it is very difficult to do otherwise), the result will be similar to that shown in the photo. It is recommended to bind the bricks with clay mortar. But in field conditions, you can do without binding material - just put the components on top of each other according to the order. In this case, the stove is built in five minutes.
Figure 6. Masonry process Figure 7. Finished mobile brick oven

For those who want an intermediate option, we can recommend a slightly more complicated option.

Figure 8. Diagram of a simple stove

According to this diagram, the output is an L-shaped three-section stove. The first compartment is designed for loading firewood. The second is a chamber in which the logs are burned. The third compartment is the chimney duct. Figure 9. L-shaped stove

To create this structure you will also need 20-30 bricks. This option can be completed by yourself in a couple of hours, if the skills of a mason are completely absent. A specialist will complete the construction in a matter of minutes.

Stove heating as a method of heating private households is still popular. Since it is quite difficult to find a professional stove maker, many country property owners are forced to master the construction of brick stoves with their own hands.

To build a heating unit in accordance with all rules and regulations, homeowners will need to stock up on the appropriate knowledge and skills, prepare tools and purchase building materials for a significant amount.

Types of furnaces

A DIY brick stove for your home can be:

Russian;
Swedish;
Dutch.

Furnaces are also distinguished:

baths;
garden;
heating;
heating and cooking;
fireplaces.

Russian stove

Among stove makers, it is considered the most multifunctional brick structure. It is equipped with a place to rest, called a couch. Under it there is a cooking chamber - a firebox or crucible, under which there is an ash pan. It must ensure continuous combustion solid fuel. Such do-it-yourself brick stoves for the home also have a niche for kitchen utensils and keeping cooked food hot.

The standard dimensions of this type of furnace units are: 2 meters high, 2.5 meters long and 1.5 meters wide. Due to its impressive size, a Russian stove is capable of heating a living space with an area exceeding 40 square meters. But she also has big drawback– its operation requires a lot of solid fuel.

Swedish stove

Its dimensions are more compact compared to the Russian stove. The height of the Swedish brick structure is approximately 2 meters, and the length and width are not more than a meter. This small DIY brick oven is intended for:

for space heating;
for cooking food.

A cast iron stove with 2 burners is placed above the firebox of the Swedish unit, and an oven is placed on the side. During the construction of the stove, a stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest of it is installed in another room.

A serious design disadvantage is the high degree of fire hazard. To prevent fire, the Swedish stove is equipped with dampers.

Dutch oven

To your appearance this type stove units is obliged to Russian stove makers, it was they who came up with it. The “Dutch” is intended for heating the premises. The stove is very compact and has a high degree of heat transfer. To completely warm up a cold room with it, it will take 10 hours.

During the off-season, a DIY brick Dutch oven can retain heat for 24 hours. Its structural design ensures high heat transfer due to the winding chimney. In addition, the stove has a spacious firebox.

“Dutch” is built only using oven bricks, which accumulate heat quickly and release it gradually. This building material for building stoves is very expensive.

How to lay out the oven and what you need for this

Having considered the stove designs and made a choice, you can begin next stage. In addition to the design, the stove structure must comply with fire safety requirements, which is why the preparation stage for its construction is so important, which involves:

Development of a detailed diagram for laying a stove with or without a stove.
Determining the installation location of the structure.
Selection of materials.
A selection of tools.
Drawing up construction cost estimates.

In addition to the above measures, you need to decide on the number of auxiliary workers, and perhaps they are not needed.

The final result of construction depends on how competently the design of a house with stove heating is developed. Now you don’t have to develop diagrams - drawings of the furnace with your own hands, but purchase ready-made documentation. When choosing such a project, you need to make sure that the figures indicated in it are reliable; it also wouldn’t hurt to make sure that there is a step-by-step detailed description of the construction.

When choosing a location for a stove, first of all, pay attention to the area of the room and the design of the stove. Since the process of laying a brick stove in a country house or in a house has many nuances, experienced stove makers advise novice craftsmen to build scaled-down models of future units.

Thanks to this, you can prepare for the upcoming laying and minimize errors and miscalculations. When complex stove designs are chosen, laying stoves with your own hands can be an overwhelming task for inexperienced craftsmen. In this case, you should seek help from professionals.

Selection and purchase of building materials

Regardless of what type of furnace is to be built, the same materials are used - bricks, clay, sand. The main attention should be paid to the choice of brick.

There are 4 types of bricks for sale for the construction of furnace units:

hand molding;
ceramic;
refractory;
silicate.

Ceramic products are used to cover the unit. It is advisable to purchase brick M-250 or M-500, which costs more, but is more uniform than cheap products. It is able to withstand multiple heating-cooling cycles. Expensive brick has another advantage - excellent molding properties and decorative qualities.

Sand, when you build a brick stove with your own hands for a dacha or private household, you need to take it clean, without debris and various impurities, and therefore it needs to be sifted through a sieve.

Clay for kiln units can be normal, thin or oily. The proportions for preparing the mortar and the technology for laying bricks depend on which type is chosen. Stove makers prefer to use clay that has a normal fat content.

Preparing tools

To build a stove with your own hands in a country house or in a residential building, you will need different tools: construction, measuring and auxiliary.

From construction tools needed:

for cutting bricks - a grinder;
for sifting sand - a metal sieve with a cell no larger than 2 millimeters;
shovel;
to compact the mortar - jointing;
for laying the mixture - combined kerma;
a hammer drill plus a mixer attachment for it;
for cutting bricks - a hammer-pick.

You also need to prepare measuring instruments:

tape measure at least 5 meters long;
to control verticality - a plumb line;
a wooden stove ruler about a meter long;
to check the evenness of the installation - the rule (there can be no gaps between it and the wall);
construction and flexible levels.

Auxiliary tools include buckets, containers, etc.

Arrangement of the base for a brick kiln

When we install a stove with our own hands, first of all we ensure a distance between the chimney pipe and the roof covering of at least 15 centimeters. Then you can begin marking the foundation, which should exceed the parameters of the furnace structure in all directions by 15 centimeters.

It is better to form it when arranging the common building foundation. In order for the stove to serve for a long time, its foundation should not be connected to the foundation of the household. The fact is that their natural shrinkage differs due to different degrees of load.

First, the foundation pit is filled with concrete, and then the foundation for the furnace is built from bricks. Wooden formwork is pre-installed.

When the base is ready, its top level should be 19 centimeters below the floor surface. The foundation is not built for the fireplace, but the load on the floor is calculated upper floors. The base must be waterproofed using roofing felt or roofing felt.

Laying a brick stove for a home

First of all, you need to study the drawings of a brick stove with your own hands. Then prepare the solution and lay the first row using a spatula and trowel. Often, novice home craftsmen are sure that they should not “spar” the solution. In fact, on the contrary - the thinner the layer, the stronger the brickwork will be.

The work is carried out as follows:

Hold the brick suspended with one hand.
Applying light blows, mark the place of the chip.
Holding the brick suspended, they cut it sharply and accurately into pieces according to the marked marks.
When you build a wood-burning stove with your own hands for a summer house or home, the first row must be laid out impeccably. First, the outer row of bricks is laid, then the middle, and the seams are carefully filled with mortar, preventing the formation of voids.
The initial rows are built from whole material, and the vertical seams should not coincide. But then the bricks need to be cut. They are laid with the chopped side inside the solid structure. This point is important when constructing chimney channels and fireboxes. The fact is that the chips will be the place where soot accumulates, clogging the chimney.

Features of building arches and vaults with your own hands

When constructing arches and vaults, they also use do-it-yourself drawings of a brick kiln for a summer house or other building. The bricks are laid using the gradual overlap technology, with a thickness of at least two rows.

The thickness of such an overlap cannot be less than 2 rows. For the opening of the firebox, use a “lock” layout or masonry using the “lintel” method - the bricks are installed on metal corner vertically. A metal product can be replaced with a wooden frame.

To construct the pipe, silicate brick is used, which can withstand temperature changes and precipitation. It is resistant to the acidic environment formed when smoke and water vapor come into contact. It is important that there are no unevenness or chips in the chimney. When the stove structure is ready, a control fire is carried out after 2 - 3 weeks.

Large and small DIY brick stoves are popular in private homes. But the main thing is to build the unit correctly so that it lasts for decades.

Today, numerous manufacturers of solid fuel heating equipment offer us a wide range of metal stoves and boilers, which is updated with more and more new models from year to year. But despite all their advantages, owners of non-gasified houses still have the honor of an ordinary brick stove - this is evidenced by numerous reviews on thematic forums. What is the reason for the truly popular love for this unit? Our article will not only answer this question, but will also introduce the reader to various types stoves and do-it-yourself brick-type construction technology.

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick stove in the house

So, let's try to understand why an ancient heating device is often preferable to its modern high-tech counterparts. There are several reasons:

The stove body is an excellent heat accumulator: Thanks to this property, a brick stove has to be heated much less often than a conventional steel or even cast iron one. Some varieties retain heat for up to 24 hours, while firewood needs to be added to the firebox of a metal stove every 4–6 hours.
The ability to accumulate heat makes a brick stove more economical and less harmful to the environment than its metal “substitutes”. The fuel in it burns in an optimal mode - with the greatest heat transfer and almost complete decomposition of organic molecules into water and carbon dioxide. The excess heat generated in this case is absorbed by the brickwork and then gradually transferred to the room.
The outer surface of the oven does not heat up to a high temperature.

Due to this, the thermal radiation generated by this unit is softer than that of hot steel stoves. In addition, upon contact with hot metal, the dust contained in the air burns, releasing harmful volatile substances (this can be recognized by the characteristic unpleasant smell). Of course, you can’t get poisoned by them, but they certainly cause harm to your health.

A brick oven (this does not apply to stone ovens) emits steam when heated, and when it cools, it absorbs it again. This process is called furnace breathing. Thanks to him, relative humidity heated air always remains at a comfortable level - within 40–60%. When operating any other heating device that is not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room decreases, that is, the air becomes dry.

A steel stove has nowhere to put excess heat, so it has to be either heated frequently, adding small portions of fuel, or operated in smoldering mode. In the latter case, the operating time on one load of fuel increases, but it burns with incomplete heat transfer and with a large amount of carbon monoxide and other substances harmful to the environment - the so-called. heavy hydrocarbon radicals.

It is not difficult to verify this: a brick stove produces noticeable dark smoke only during kindling, while black smoke constantly pours out of the chimney of a steel stove in which the fuel is smoldering. Metal solid fuel heaters do not have this drawback. long burning(full-fledged, and not so-called gas-generating furnaces, which only imitate gas generation). But they are very expensive, they have complex design and need electricity, which a brick kiln can easily do without.

What can be opposed to all of the above? A brick oven takes a long time to warm up a cooled room. Therefore, homeowners are recommended to acquire an additional steel convector, which will heat the air in a forced mode while the stove is heating.

It should also be taken into account that a brick oven is a rather massive structure that must be built together with the house. And this should ideally be done by an experienced master, who still needs to be found.

Application of brick kilns

The scope of use of stoves is not limited to their main functions - heating and cooking. Here are some other tasks this unit can solve:

Smoking meat and fish.
Melting of scrap metal (cupola furnace).
Hardening and cementing of metal parts (muffle furnaces).
Firing ceramic products.
Heating blanks in a forge workshop.
Maintaining the required temperature and humidity conditions in the bath.

But in poultry houses, greenhouses, greenhouses and livestock farms It is not recommended to build a stove out of brick: here it will have to breathe putrefactive fumes, which will lead to rapid deterioration.

Types of structures

The above diagram in various ovens may change. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and bell-shaped.

Dutch

This scheme is called channel serial. Such a stove is very simple to manufacture and its design can easily be adjusted to any room, but its maximum efficiency is only 40%.

Swedish unit

Very good option heating and cooking stove.

A very successful option for a heating and cooking stove. Its design is called a chamber design. The chamber, the walls of which are washed by hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The duct convector is located behind the stove and occupies the entire space from floor to ceiling. This scheme has a number of advantages:

Efficiency at 60%;
in the oven, you can install a heat exchanger on the side to heat the water that will be stored in storage tank on the roof of the stove;
gases enter the convector relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), so for its construction you can use building bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar;
a convector with this shape heats the room to its entire height as evenly as possible;
near the Swedish oven you can quickly warm up and dry yourself if you open the oven door.

Furnaces of this type are difficult to manufacture, require very high quality materials and require a foundation.

Bell furnace

Self-regulating scheme: flue gases enter the chimney only after complete combustion under the hood.

This mechanism provides an efficiency of over 70%, but this furnace is quite complex to manufacture (the design involves high loads). Yes, and it can only be used for heating.

Russian stove-bed

The design of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called flow-through. It does not have a convector.

The design of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called flow-through. It does not have a convector. The owner of a Russian stove benefits from the following:

Efficiency reaches 80%;
the building has an interesting appearance;
Dishes of our national cuisine that cannot be cooked otherwise than in a Russian oven become available for preparation.

You can fold a Russian stove yourself if you strictly follow the drawings. The slightest deviations can ruin the design.

General structure of the furnace, drawing

The design of the furnace is not particularly complex.

In the brick mass there is a chamber with a door in which fuel burns - a firebox (in the figure - positions 8 and 9). In its lower part there is a grate (item 7), on which fuel is placed and through which air enters the firebox. Under the grate there is another chamber, called an ash pan or ash pit, which is also closed by a door (positions 4 and 6). Through this door, air from outside enters the oven and through it, the ash that has fallen into it is removed from the ash pan.

Through the hole at the rear wall, the flue gases enter the hailo (pos. 11) - an inclined channel directed towards the front wall. The hailo ends with a narrowing - a nozzle. Next comes a U-shaped channel, called a gas convector (item 16).

The walls of the gas convector heat the air moving through a special channel inside the furnace. This channel is called an air convector (pos. 14). At its exit there is a door (pos. 18), which is closed in the summer.

The chimney contains the following elements:

cleaning door (item 12): the smoke exhaust duct is cleaned through it;
valve for adjusting the combustion mode (item 15);
view (pos. 17): also a valve, by means of which, after kindling, when all carbon monoxide has already evaporated, the chimney is closed in order to retain heat.

Thermal insulation surrounding the chimney in the intersection area attic floor and roofing is called cutting (pos. 23). At the intersection of the ceiling, the chimney walls are made thicker. This widening is called fluffing (pos. 21), it is also considered cutting.

After crossing the roof, the chimney has another widening - an otter (pos. 24). It prevents rain moisture from penetrating into the gap between the roof and the chimney.

Other positions:

1 and 2 - foundation with thermal and waterproofing;
3 - legs or trenches: a stove with such elements requires less brick, and besides, it has an additional heating surface from below;
5 - the beginning of a special air channel (vent), through which uniform heating of the room along the height is achieved;
10 - combustion chamber;
13 - bend of the air convector, called overflow or pass;
20 - furnace roof;
22 - attic floor.

Preparation for construction

Necessary materials, selection

When constructing a furnace, the following types of bricks are used:

Construction ceramic brick (red). They are laid out in the lowest rows - the so-called under combustion part(indicated in the diagram by oblique shading), as well as that part of the chimney in which temperatures below 80 degrees are observed.
Kiln ceramic brick. Also red, but compared to construction grade it is of higher quality (brand - M150) and withstands more high temperatures- up to 800 degrees. Externally, they can be distinguished by size: the dimensions of the stove are 230x114x40(65) mm, while those of the construction one are 250x125x65 mm. The fire (furnace) part of the furnace is laid out with stove bricks; in the diagram it is indicated by checkered shading.
Fireclay brick. The firebox is lined with this material from the inside. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but its advantages are not limited to this. Fireclay brick combines high heat capacity (it is a very “capacious” heat accumulator) and equally high thermal conductivity.

Note! Face brick cannot be used in this case.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to lay out the fire part with fireclay bricks alone - the oven will heat up too much and cool down very quickly due to intense thermal radiation. Therefore, the outer surface must be lined with at least half a brick of oven brick.

The dimensions of fireclay bricks are the same as those of stove bricks. It is often recommended to determine its quality by color depth, but this method is only valid for those products for which the clay was mined in one place. If we compare fireclay clay from different deposits, the color does not always provide an objective characteristic: dark material may well be inferior in quality to light yellow.

A more reliable indicator of quality is the absence of pores and foreign particles visible to the eye, as well as a fine-grained structure (in the picture, a high-quality sample is on the left). When tapping metal object A high-quality fireclay brick should produce a loud and clear sound, and when dropped from a certain height it will break into large pieces. A low-quality one will respond with dull sounds when tapped, and when dropped, it will crumble into many small fragments.

Also, during the construction of the furnace, the following solutions are used:

Cement-sand: those parts of the furnace that consist of ordinary building bricks, laid on a regular cement-sand mortar.
Cement-sand High Quality: this solution, consisting of mountain sand and Portland cement grade M400 and higher, is used if the furnace is supposed to be fired irregularly. The fact is that a dried clay solution, if not heated sufficiently, can become saturated with moisture and become limp again. That is why, in areas with temperatures below 200–250 degrees (in the diagram - oblique shading with filling), instead of clay, a high-quality cement-sand mortar based on mountain sand is used. We emphasize that this should be done only if the stove will often be idle during the cold season.
Clay solution. This solution also requires mountain sand. It is characterized by the absence of organic residues, due to which the seams would quickly crumble. But now it is not necessary to buy expensive mountain sand: excellent quality solutions are obtained using sand from ground ceramic or fireclay bricks.
High-quality clay is more expensive than sand, so they try to minimize its amount in the solution.

To determine the smallest required amount of this material, subject to the use of sand from ground bricks, proceed as follows:

the clay is soaked for 24 hours, then mixed with water until it looks like plasticine or thick dough;
dividing the clay into portions, prepare 5 variants of the solution: with the addition of 10% sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (by volume);
after drying for 4 hours, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder 30 cm long and 10–15 mm in diameter. Each cylinder must be wound around a blank with a diameter of 50 mm.

Let’s analyze the result: a solution without cracks or with small cracks in the very surface layer is suitable for any task; with a crack depth of 1–2 mm, the solution is considered suitable for masonry at a temperature of no more than 300 degrees; For deeper cracks, the solution is considered unsuitable.

Tool

Besides standard set tools for masonry work, which include:

trowel;
hammer-pick;
grooves for seams;
shovel for mortar.

The stove maker must have an ordering rack. It has a cross-section of 5x5 cm, staples for fastening at the seams and marks corresponding to the position of individual rows. By installing 4 rows in the corners, it will be easy to ensure the verticality of the masonry and the equality of the width of the seams between the rows.

Calculation of a simple heating device

The method for calculating a furnace is extremely complex and requires a lot of experience, but it exists simplified version, proposed by I.V. Kuznetsov. It demonstrates a fairly accurate result, provided that the outside of the house is well insulated. For 1 m2 of furnace surface area, the following heat transfer values are accepted:

under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
at severe frosts when the stove is heated particularly intensively (no more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.

Thus, a furnace with a height of 2.5 m and dimensions in plan of 1.5x1.5 m, having a surface area of 17.5 m 2, will generate 8.5 kW in normal mode, and 13.3 kW of heat in intensive mode. This performance will be sufficient for a house with an area of 80–100 m2.

The calculation of the firebox is also very complicated, but today there is no need for it. Rather than designing and manufacturing a homemade firebox, it is better to purchase a ready-made one in a store: it is already designed according to all the rules and will cost less.

When choosing a firebox, consider the following:

The size of the firebox and the location of the fasteners must correspond to the standard size of the brick used.
For a stove that is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded sheet steel firebox; for constant use you need to buy only a cast iron firebox.
The depth of the ash pit (the lower narrowing of the firebox) should be one third of the height of the combustion chamber if the furnace will be fired with coal or peat most of the time, and one fifth if the main fuel is wood or pellets.

The cross-section of chimneys that meet standard requirements (straight vertical stroke, height of the head above the grate - from 4 to 12 m) is selected according to the recommendations specified in SNiP, depending on the power of the furnace:

with heat transfer up to 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200x200 mm;
from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200x270 mm.

It is impossible to accurately calculate the power of the stove, so sometimes there may be a discrepancy between the accepted cross-section of the chimney and the performance of the unit - the stove begins to smoke. In this case, it is enough to simply increase the height of the chimney by 0.25–0.5 m.

Empirical formulas have been developed to determine the number of bricks, but they give an error of up to 15%. The only way to accomplish exact calculation manually - just count the bricks in order, which will only take about an hour. A more modern option is to simulate a stove in one of the ovens designed for this purpose. computer programs. The system itself will draw up a specification, which will indicate the exact number of whole bricks, as well as cut, shaped, etc.

Choosing a location, scheme

The method of installing the stove depends on the size of the house and its location in it. various rooms. Here's an option for a small one country house:

In the cold season, such a stove will efficiently heat the entire building, and in the summer, when open window, you can cook on it quite comfortably.

IN big house With permanent residence The oven can be positioned like this:

In this version, the fireplace stove installed in the living room is equipped with a purchased cast iron firebox with a door made of heat-resistant glass.

And thus a brick stove can be installed in an economy class home:

When considering the location of the furnace, you need to consider the following:

A structure containing more than 500 bricks must have its own foundation, which cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
The chimney should not come into contact with the attic floor beams or roof rafters. It should be taken into account that in the area where the attic floor intersects, it has a widening called fluff.
The minimum distance from the pipe to the roof ridge is 1.5 m.

There are exceptions to the first rule:

A hob with a low and wide body, equipped with a heating panel, can be installed without a foundation if the floor can withstand a load of at least 250 kg/m2.
In a house with a sectional strip foundation, a furnace with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be erected at the intersection of the foundations interior walls(including T-shaped). In this case, the minimum distance from the furnace foundation to the foundation strips of the building is 1.2 m.
A small Russian stove can be erected on a foundation made of wooden beam with a cross section of 150x150 mm (the so-called guardianship), resting on the ground or rubble masonry of the building foundation.

Preparatory work consists of laying the foundation and laying thermal and waterproofing. If the furnace is equipped with trenches, a strip foundation, maybe rubble. A conventional furnace (without trenches) is built on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. On each side, the foundation must protrude beyond the outline of the stove by at least 50 mm.

The insulating “pie” is assembled in the following sequence:

roofing material is laid on the foundation in 2 or 3 layers;
4–6 mm thick basalt cardboard or the same asbestos sheet is laid on top;
then put a sheet roofing iron;
All that's left to do is put it down last layer- basalt cardboard or felt impregnated with highly diluted masonry mortar.

Laying can only begin after upper layer will dry to the roofing iron.

Before starting masonry work, a fireproof covering must be built on the floor in front of the future furnace, which usually consists of a sheet of roofing iron laid on a lining of asbestos or basalt cardboard. One edge of the sheet is pressed against the first row of bricks, the rest are bent and nailed to the floor. The front edge of such a covering must be at least 300 mm away from the stove, while its side edges must extend beyond the stove by 150 mm on each side.

Step-by-step instruction

Laying rules in accordance with the order

The oven is placed in accordance with the order (see figure).

Adhere to the following rules:

The seams between the bricks in the arch of the firebox and the under-fire part can be up to 13 mm wide, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: upward - up to a width of 5 mm, downward - up to 2 mm.
It is impossible to bandage the seams between ceramic and fireclay masonry - these materials differ greatly in thermal expansion. For the same reason, seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, are given maximum thickness(5 mm).
The masonry must be carried out with bandaging of the seams, that is, each seam must overlap with the adjacent brick by at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
The laying out of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked by level and plumb. So that verticality does not have to be checked every time, cords are pulled strictly vertically along the corners of the stove (to do this, you need to drive nails into the ceiling and into the seams between the bricks) and then use them to guide you.
Doors and dampers are fixed in the masonry using binding wire inserted into the seams, or using clamps made from a 25x2 mm steel strip. The second option is for the firebox door (especially its upper part), oven and fire dampers: here the wire will quickly burn out.

In fluff and otter, only the external size of the chimney increases, the internal cross-section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates cut from brick are added to the masonry. The inner surface of the chimney must be plastered.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The construction of the furnace body begins with the sub-furnace part.

In the absence of sufficient experience, the rows should first be laid out without mortar and thoroughly leveled, and only then the row should be transferred to the mortar. Also, novice craftsmen are recommended to lay out the furnace section of the furnace in formwork.
After laying the 3rd row, a blower door is installed on it.
It must be level. To seal the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with asbestos cord.
Next, the fire part is laid out, for which stove and fireclay bricks are used.
Before laying, the blocks are cleaned from dust with a brush. Ceramic bricks need to be moistened by dipping them into a container of water, then shaken off. Wetting fireclay bricks is not only not required, but also not allowed. Many stove-makers apply the solution by hand, since they can be laid with a trowel. thin layer 3 mm thick is not easy. The brick must be placed correctly immediately, without adjusting or knocking. If it was not possible to do this the first time, the operation must be repeated, after first removing the mortar spread on the brick - it can no longer be used.
After laying several more rows, the ash pan chamber is covered with a grate. It should lie on fireclay bricks, in which the corresponding grooves are cut.
Install the combustion door in the same order in which the blower door was installed.
Lay out the rows of the combustion chamber. If a low stove is being built, then the row of bricks above the fire door must be moved back somewhat so that they are not overturned by the heavy cast iron sheet when it is opened.
The combustion chamber is covered with a hob or roof (in pure heating stoves). Slab onto the solution due to the significant difference in thermal expansion It cannot be laid between cast iron and clay - an asbestos cord must be placed under it.
Next, they continue laying the stove according to the order, creating a gas convector system. In order for soot to collect at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it is easily removed, the height of the lower interchannel transitions (flows) must be 30-50% greater than the upper ones (they are called passes). The edges of the passes need to be rounded.

Having completed the construction of the furnace body, they begin to construct the chimney.

Features of the formation of the arch

There are two types of vaults:

flat: vaults of this type are laid from shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of a circle, a flat tray is used. A flat vault has one peculiarity: it must be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will crumble very soon. Therefore, even stove makers with sufficient experience build this part of the stove using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
semicircular (arched).

The latter are laid out using a pattern, also called a circle:

They begin by installing the outer support blocks on the mortar - thrust bearings, which are pre-cut according to the drawing of the vault, made in full size.
After the solution has dried, install the circle and lay out the wings of the vault.
The keystones are driven in with a log or a wooden hammer, having previously applied a thick layer of mortar to the installation site. At the same time, they monitor how the mortar is squeezed out of the masonry of the wings: if the masonry was completed without disturbances, this process will take place evenly throughout the entire vault.

The circle should be removed only after the solution has completely dried.

The angle between the axes of adjacent bricks in a semicircular vault should not exceed 17 degrees. At standard sizes blocks, the seam between them inside (from the firebox side) should have a width of 2 mm, and outside - 13 mm.

Rules and nuances of operation

For a stove to be economical, it must be maintained in good condition. A crack only 2 mm wide in the valve area will provide heat loss of 10% due to the uncontrolled flow of air through it.

The stove also needs to be heated correctly. If the blower is very open, 15 to 20% of the heat can fly out into the chimney, and if the combustion door is open while the fuel is burning, then all 40%.

The wood used to heat the stove must be dry. To do this, they need to be prepared ahead of time. Damp firewood produces less heat, and in addition, due to the abundance of moisture in it, a large amount of acidic condensate is formed in the chimney, which intensively destroys brick walls.

In order for the oven to heat up evenly, the thickness of the logs should be the same - about 8–10 cm.

Firewood is laid in rows or in a cage, so that there is a gap of 10 mm between them. There should be a distance of at least 20 mm from the top of the fuel fill to the top of the firebox; it’s even better if the firebox is 2/3 full.

The bulk of the fuel is ignited with a torch, paper, etc. It is prohibited to use acetone, kerosene or gasoline.

After kindling, you need to close the view so that the heat does not escape through the chimney.

When adjusting the draft during kindling, you need to be guided by the color of the flame. Optimal mode combustion is characterized yellow fire; if it turns white, the air is supplied in excess and a significant part of the heat is thrown into the chimney; The red color indicates a lack of air - the fuel does not burn completely, and a large amount of harmful substances is released into the atmosphere.

Cleaning (including soot removal)

Cleaning and repairing the stove is usually carried out in the summer, but in winter you will need to clean the chimney 2-3 times. Soot is an excellent heat insulator and if there is a large amount of it, the furnace will become less efficient.

Ash must be removed from the grate before each fire.

The draft in the furnace, and therefore its operating mode, is regulated by a viewer, a valve and a blower door. Therefore, the condition of these devices must be constantly monitored. Any faults or wear should be repaired or replaced immediately.

Video: how to fold a stove with your own hands

Whatever version of the brick stove you choose, it will only work effectively in a well-insulated house. Otherwise there will be no friendship between them.

Stove heating is not going to become obsolete at all. Wood-burning stoves made of brick continue to be built not only by the owners of village houses, but also by the owners of large country cottages. Another question is how much does it cost to hire a master stove-maker to build and buy necessary materials. The only way to save money is to build a brick oven with your own hands, having studied the construction technology according to the schemes - procedures presented later in the article. Of course, a beginner cannot build a Russian or two-bell stove with a stove bench, but you can overcome a heat source of a simple design.

Projects of simple brick stoves

The first thing you should worry about is choosing a home heater design that can meet your heating needs. We offer 3 options for simple designs, proven by many years of practice:

duct-type heating stove, the so-called Dutch stove;
hob with oven and tank connected to water heating or hot water supply;
Swedish - a combined heater with a niche for drying things.

Duct stove - Dutch

Folding the Dutchman shown in the picture yourself is quite simple. It is small in plan, but it can be placed indefinitely in height, while the internal vertical channels are lengthened. This allows you to heat a two- or three-story small house or cottage if you build a Dutch oven with a passage through the ceilings. A duct stove successfully burns wood of various qualities and satisfactorily heats rooms, although it cannot be called economical.

Reference. The Dutch oven warms up quickly, and after extinguishing it does not give off heat for long; the duration of combustion from one bookmark also leaves much to be desired. Her strong point– ease of construction and low fuel requirements.

The stove shown in the photo is a convenient option for a country house or a small home in the village, including for use in the summer. Tank installed on the path of hot flue gases, capable of serving hot water for heating systems or household needs.

Swedish brick stoves combine the advantages of the two previous heaters. In addition, they are economical, release accumulated heat for a long time and work equally well with wood and coal. But the masonry of a Swede is much more complicated hob plus more bricks and purchased iron fittings are required.

Swedish oven built between the walls

Drawings and orders of stoves

Stove order - Dutch

Cross-sectional diagram of a Dutch woman

The procedure for laying the hob

Schematic structure of the plate
Ordering a Swedish oven

Any brick stove transfers heat into the room in two ways: using infrared radiation from hot walls and through heating the air circulating in the room (convection). Hence the conclusion: for effective heating it is necessary that the heater, or at least part of it, be located in the heated room. Taking this requirement into account, we will give some advice on choosing a place for a building in rural house and at the dacha:

If you need to heat one large room, then it is better to place the stove in the middle, with a slight offset to the side outer wall where the cold comes from.
To heat 2-4 adjacent rooms, the structure must be placed in the center of the building, dismantling some of the interior partitions.
Suppose there are 1-2 small rooms adjacent to the hall. You can go there water heating with radiators and circulation pump, connected to the furnace heat exchanger or tank.
Do not plan to install the heater close to external walls. There is no point in warming them up; some of the heat will simply go outside.
The hob and oven should go into the kitchen, and the hob should go into the living room or bedroom.

Advice. When placing the heater in the center of a private house, make sure that the future chimney does not fall into the ridge of the roof. It is better to move the building by 20-40 cm and bring the pipe through one of the roof slopes.

Partitions and floors made of wood or other combustible building materials located closer than 500 mm from the body of the stove must subsequently be protected with sheets of metal. It is advisable to lay a layer of basalt cardboard under them. In a stone house, these precautions apply only to the wooden roof elements located next to the chimney.

Procurement of materials and components

The main building material from which a do-it-yourself stove is built is red ceramic brick. It must be of high quality and must be solid; stones with voids inside are not used in the stove business, except perhaps for the construction of outdoor grills and barbecues.

Advice. The Dutch one is so undemanding in terms of the quality of materials that it can be made from used red brick. Only upon completion of the masonry will it be necessary to refine it, for example, by covering tiles or come up with a beautiful tiled decor.

To assemble a small-sized Dutch oven, you need to prepare the following materials and fittings:

red burnt brick – minimum 390 pcs.;
grate size 25 x 25 cm;
loading door 25 x 21 cm;
small cleaning and blower doors 14 x 14 cm;
metal flap 13 x 13 cm.

Note. As mentioned in the first section, the Dutch oven can be laid out to any desired height. The specified number of bricks is enough for construction in a one-story private house.

List of components and building materials for the hob:

solid ceramic brick – 190 pcs.;
grate 25 x 5 cm;
two-burner cast iron stove measuring 53 x 18 cm with disks;
fuel chamber door 25 x 21 cm;
metal tank - boiler with dimensions 35 x 45 x 15 cm;
oven 32 x 27 x 40 cm;
cleaning doors 13 x 14 cm – 2 pcs.;
chimney valve;
steel corner 30 x 30 x 4 mm – 4 m.

To save money, you can take on the manufacture of a tank for heating water yourself - simply weld it from metal 3, or better yet, 4 mm thick. There is another option: instead of a tank, place a coil inside the stove, welded with your own hands from steel pipe diameter 25-32 mm. But we must remember that in such a water circuit it is necessary to organize constant circulation using a pump, otherwise the metal will quickly burn out.

To build a Swedish heating and cooking stove, you will need the same set of materials as for a stove. Just take a larger corner - 50 x 50 mm, buy a steel strip 40 x 4 mm and prepare fireproof (fireclay) bricks for laying the firebox. To install accessories, find soft wire made of steel with a diameter of up to 2 mm.

Advice on masonry mortar. Preparing natural clay, which experienced stove makers use to lay bricks, is a long and difficult process. Therefore, beginners are recommended to use ready-made clay-sand mixtures for constructing stoves, which are commercially available.

Laying the foundation

Before folding the stove, you need to prepare a solid base. The structure is quite heavy, so placing it directly on floors, even flooded ones cement screed, unacceptable. The foundation of the stove is a separate structure, not in contact with the base of the building. If you are building a brick heater close to the walls or building a corner fireplace, you need to make a retreat of at least 150 mm so that there is a minimum clearance of 10 cm between the foundations.

If the floors in the house are covered with screed, then it is recommended to follow the following step-by-step instructions for installing a stove foundation:

Dismantle the screed section and dig a pit protruding beyond the dimensions of the stove by 50 mm in each direction. The depth depends on the thickness of the upper layer of subsidence soil.
Pour a sand cushion 100 mm high and compact it. Fill the hole to the top with rubble stone or broken brick, then fill with liquid cement mortar.
After hardening, lay a waterproofing layer of roofing felt and install formwork protruding above the screed, as shown in the drawing.
Prepare the concrete and pour the foundation slab. For strength, you can lay reinforcement mesh there.

After 3 weeks (time for complete hardening concrete mixture) place a sheet of roofing steel on the finished base, and on top - felt impregnated with clay mortar or basalt cardboard. After this, you can begin to lay the body of the furnace.

Scheme of the base structure for wooden floors

To properly lay the foundation of a stove under wooden floors, use the same algorithm, only instead of a concrete slab, lay out the walls of red brick (used) up to the level of the floor covering. Fill the void inside with rubble or crushed stone and concrete on top. Next is a sheet of metal, felt soaked in clay and a solid first row of stove masonry. You can get more information on the topic by watching the video