When to install windows and doors in a log house. Installing windows in a private house Options for installing windows in a brick house

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PVC windows make their choice both complex and simple. The simplicity lies in the fact that the wide the lineup allows you to select a suitable sample for the exterior of the house and its interior design. However, when purchasing, you may encounter difficulties: what to focus on when choosing? Who should be entrusted with the work so that the installation of plastic windows is of high quality and the structures last a long time and do not lose their beauty?

The consequences of improper installation of plastic windows can be unpleasant. In case of errors during glazing, the properties of PVC structures for heat conservation, protection from noise and dust may be lost. Work carried out incorrectly will lead to the formation of condensation, drafts, cracks on slopes, dampness, and the formation of fungus. In addition, a frame fixed skewed can create excess stress, which disables the locking mechanisms.

Self-assembly of a heavy structure without experience and special knowledge complicated and time consuming. To avoid troubles, it is better to order a service from experienced specialists.

Cost of installing plastic windows

Installation in panel house 1,240 RUR/m2
Installation in wooden house 1,240 RUR/m2
Installation in brick house 1,240 RUR/m2
Glazing of loggias and balconies 1,550 RUR/m2
Installation of entrance and interior rooms PVC doors 1,550 RUR/m2
Dismantling old window frames without saving FOR FREE
Dismantling while preserving old frames 1300 rub/window
Difficult dismantling: metal frames, double frames in Stalinist houses 1300 rub/window
Delivery to the entrance and removal of the container for construction waste 7000 rub.
Removing old frames to a construction waste container 650 rub/window

Cost of windows with turnkey installation



Installation technology

Once you have decided how much it costs to install a window, you begin preparing the openings and premises for installation and finishing work.

  • Dismantling of old structures. Standard option dismantling implies the destruction of old wooden frames. However, if necessary, dismantling can be done using gentle technology, after which the frames are kept intact and can be reused. Necessity careful dismantling must be discussed in advance with the surveyor and manager at the stage of concluding the contract.
  • Installation of windows. All installation work carried out on the basis of GOST standards and in accordance with the specifics profile systems. The window is leveled in the opening, secured with anchors or anchor plates and foamed around the perimeter. Foam seam in mandatory sealed using vapor and waterproofing tapes, as well as PSUL tapes.
  • Installation of window sill, ebb and mosquito net. The window sill is attached to a special support profile located under the window and carefully foamed. The ebb is screwed on from the street side using self-tapping screws.
  • Slope finishingThe final stage. We use warm materials as finishing materials. plastic sandwich panels, which go well with window block made of PVC and provide excellent thermal insulation and protection of slopes from condensation.

A visible indicator that the installation of plastic windows was carried out correctly is the absence of any gaps or air leaks in the installation seam. At the end, the fittings are carefully adjusted and the closing tightness of the window sashes is tested.


The PLASTOK company manufactures windows and installs them according to the most high standards in accordance with GOST and with a 5-year warranty. We offer installation of plastic and aluminum windows as well as glazing of balconies

Prices for installing plastic windows

* Dismantling is free only when ordering and installing windows
** Minimum installation cost is 2500 rubles.
** Installation costs for windows of non-standard shape are calculated individually.

To get a durable and quality installation you need to call a surveyor who will measure the window opening, not only taking into account your wishes, but also taking into account the characteristics of the building itself and the increase in the opening after dismantling. If you follow all the rules for dismantling and installing a plastic window, you will receive durability, quality, reliability, warmth and comfort in your home.

Video of the installation process

Main stages of installation of plastic windows

The PLASTOK company performs high quality installation using modern instruments and materials. Installation teams consist of trained qualified specialists. The company conducts systematic training courses for employees.
PLASTOK is quality assurance installation work performed.

Preparing access to the window opening

Checking the size of new PVC windows and preparing them for installation

Before starting installation, it is mandatory to check the compliance of the window dimensions with the window opening, check the complete set of the order and its compliance with the technical specifications.

The sashes are removed from their hinges and the blind windows are unglazed. Holes are drilled in the frame or anchor plates are secured in accordance with the requirements approved by GOST, taking into account the type of house and the indicators specified in the measurement sheet. When determining the locations of fasteners, installers are guided by the following requirements:

  • distance between fastening elements - no more than 700 mm,
  • distance from internal corner window block boxes to the fastening element - 150-180 mm (but not less than 2 fastening elements on one side),
  • the distance from the impost connection to the fastening element is 120-180 mm.

Removing old window frames

After knocking down the slopes, the old frames are removed from the window opening. During installation, the work area is kept clean and large construction debris is removed.

Before installing the frame into the opening, 3 types of tapes are installed on it, which provide hydro, heat and sound insulation of the room.

  1. PSUL tape- self-expanding pre-compressed sealing tape. The material is a self-adhesive polyurethane foam tape, which is impregnated with a special neoprene composition. It glues easily and has the ability to expand, filling all the defects and unevenness of the window opening. The tape not only hides these defects, but also perfectly protects installation seam from exposure to weather conditions. PSUL tape is glued to the side and top parts of the frame, taking into account the quarter turn.
  2. Vapor barrier tape made from aluminum foil reinforced with high-strength synthetic thread, designed for internal vapor barrier of assembly joints.
  3. Waterproofing tape will reliably protect the external assembly seam from aggressive atmospheric influences. It is made on a polypropylene base with a butyl adhesive strip that firmly adheres to the opening or slope, and the adhesive mounting strips are easily fixed to the window or door profile.

Preparing the window opening and installing the frame and sashes

Before installing a new window, the opening is thoroughly cleaned and prepared. Then, using technological wedges, taking into account the gaps on the sides, the frame is aligned relative to the vertical and horizontal. Plates or dowels are fixed on the sides of the window frame. During the installation process, control measurements of deviations must be carried out. Installed window sashes and the blind parts are glazed.

When the frame is fixed, the installation seam between the frame and the wall is sealed with foam sealant.

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Window production and installation technologies are improving every year. But there is another significant factor that affects the durability and reliability of windows: when they were installed.

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General rules. Ideally, it is better to install any window after performing wet finishing works inside the house, before finishing the facade. Installing windows before insulating the house will allow for quality work external finishing slopes and the walls themselves. The ideal sequence is as follows: wet work inside (without finishing slopes); window installation; finishing of slopes; then wet work on the facade.

When to install windows during the construction phase?

Wooden windows. Wet construction works(plastering, pouring screeds) create high humidity indoors and can cause deformation wooden structures. A special one will not protect them either. acrylic paint(even if manufacturers say otherwise). In addition, moisture evaporating from the surface finishing materials, is chemically aggressive, which is also not good for the tree. Conclusion: you can install wooden windows only when the “wet” work is completed and the room is dried and well ventilated. If the windows need to be installed quickly, but it is impossible to comply with these rules, it is better to replace wet finishing dry (for example, drywall).

Plastic windows. Put plastic windows possible before carrying out wet work. And if it happens in autumn or winter, this is the only possible variant. The main thing is to ensure good ventilation and a temperature above “+5” in the room, so that excess moisture does not form and accumulate inside the structure.

We focus on the facade. If the walls are single-layer, windows can be installed both before and after finishing the facade. Although the first option is preferable: you can more carefully trace the connection of the elements and secure them more accurately and reliably. Otherwise, it all depends on what you prefer: protect the windows from plaster or apply a second, cosmetic, layer to the facade after installing the windows. Windows are installed in double-layer walls before finishing with insulation. Its slabs adjacent to the windows are placed so that in the corners of the openings their joints do not coincide with each other. The corners of the slopes are reinforced with reinforcing mesh and corners. 2-3 cm of insulation is applied to window box. If the windows are installed after facing with insulation, some of the work will have to be done again.

When to install windows during renovation?

Before plastering. As already mentioned, at this stage you can install a plastic window - it’s better to wait with a wooden one. Before starting work, the windows and the entire structure are covered with film and first the slopes and corners of the openings are plastered, and then the walls. If renovations take place in the fall, windows protected with film are left open to allow moisture to escape.

After plastering. The walls are finished with plaster without touching the slopes, and after installing the window and drying polyurethane foam they are plastered too. If it is decided to finish the room with plasterboard, the same team that does the cladding can put the slopes in order.

Is it possible to install windows in winter?

Pros. Usually in winter windows are sold at a significant discount. In addition, in winter, all defects and installation errors, if any, are immediately detected. For example, if the installation seams are poorly insulated, all the cracks, and therefore drafts, are immediately noticeable, and in the summer they are easy to miss.

Minuses. Savings on windows can evaporate during installation if special frost-resistant materials, thermal barriers, etc. are required. Wooden windows better in winter do not mount at all. In principle, it is possible to install plastic windows, but only if the air temperature is not lower than “-5”, even if the polyurethane foam and sealants are designed for lower temperatures. The most resistant polyurethane foam does not “adhere” to the wall in cold weather and takes longer to dry, and PVC becomes brittle: mechanical stress can cause cracks and chips.

Images used in this article: okna.ru

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If you are building Vacation home, then sooner or later you will be faced with the question of the advisability of installing plastic windows at one or another stage of the construction process. Moreover, people, for the most part, try to install PVC windows as early as possible, explaining this by the fact that the erected “box” needs protection from low street temperatures, winds, precipitation and outside penetration. Well, there really is some logic to this. But give in to panic and install windows even before the roof is erected (and in cases with winter construction This happens all the time) it’s still not worth it. Believe me, this will bring you much more troubles than positive moments.

Why does the question posed in the title of this article even arise? After all, plastic windows can be used without problems even in 40-degree frosts, so why not really install them as soon as the window openings in the house under construction are completed? Well, we don’t argue, polyvinyl chloride can really cope with low temperatures, and with winds and precipitation. But an installed plastic window is not only plastic, metal and glass, but also important element, like polyurethane foam. And if the foam encounters conditions of excessive humidity, such as those found in both outdoor and inside, it can accumulate moisture inside itself. As a result, with the arrival of frost, this same moisture will freeze, the cellular structure of the foam will begin to degrade, the insulation will be damaged, etc.

By the way, in the case of wooden windows everything is much worse. After all, if PVC cannot be saturated with moisture, then wood can. Frame swelling wooden windows can lead to the most serious consequences, including the need to install new window structures. Plus, don’t forget that wood is painted and varnished, and when deformed paints and varnishes will begin to burst and peel. PVC, which has color in its structure, will not encounter such a problem.

There is such an important concept as the warranty conditions for the operation of a plastic window. This concept is directly related to the topic of our article, since if the operating conditions of a PVC window structure are considered improper, then the window will simply be removed from the warranty. So, the normal warranty conditions for the operation of plastic windows are temperatures within +20 degrees Celsius, as well as indoor humidity at 50-60 percent. In principle, this corresponds to the average living conditions in our country, so going beyond the warranty on this item is quite problematic. Unless we are talking about installing plastic windows during the construction of a building. Here the humidity may be higher and the temperature lower. Please note that warranty conditions are not a ploy to allow the manufacturer to avoid warranty exchange or repair. These are the conditions under which the declared durability and performance of a plastic window is guaranteed. And if you break them, it will be entirely your fault.

Further, there is a division of repair work into wet (wet) and dry. Wet ones include those renovation work, which are associated with the use of compounds on water based requiring gradual drying. For example, this could be the hardening of a screed on the floor or a plaster layer on a wall/ceiling. During wet work, the overall level of humidity inside the room increases, even going beyond the warranty operating conditions. Considering the fact that repair compounds dry for more than one day, this can be a problem for installed plastic windows. What are the ways to solve this situation?

1. Replacing wet repair procedures with dry ones. For example, instead of using plaster solutions You can level the wall with plasterboard, and instead of pouring screed on the floor, use mortar-free leveling using joists.

2. Carry out work in spring or summer. As we have already determined, the main danger is the freezing of moisture inside the foam, and in spring and summer this problem is not relevant.

3. Creation of guarantee conditions artificially. Using heating equipment and setting up proper ventilation indoors, you can achieve normal level humidity and temperature even when carrying out wet work. In general, you will need ventilation not only to protect against foam moisture, but to generally protect the window from condensation. Therefore, it needs to be done as early as possible.

Another problem that you may encounter is the appearance of mold, which is a consequence of moistening the polyurethane foam, as well as slopes. Therefore, if you are installing plastic windows during the construction of a house, it is strongly recommended to immediately restore the slopes and treat them with an antibacterial compound. When restoring the slopes, you will close the assembly seam (foam), which will provide it with serious, although not total, protection.

Should windows be installed before “dirty” work is carried out, which can severely contaminate the surface of the plastic window? In principle, if you securely close the window opening with a combination of construction cellophane and tape, then problems with contamination should not arise. Another thing is that when carrying out construction and repair procedures you will use tools that can tear the cellophane or even cause physical harm to the glass unit or plastic frame. Therefore, proceed with extreme caution.

The issue of house shrinkage, which is especially relevant for all types, deserves special attention. wooden buildings. As a rule, in log houses, plastic windows are installed only after the house shrinks, which occurs under its own weight of building materials, as well as under wind and sediment loads. And even after the first shrinkage, it is strongly recommended to install PVC windows using a casing, which will prevent deformation of the window block during subsequent shrinkage processes. With houses made of other materials, the moment of shrinkage also needs to be taken into account, although to a lesser extent.

Speaking of windows, Lately often implied window design, that is, glass enclosed in a frame (or a double-glazed window in a profile). Consumers pay a lot of attention to the choice of materials and the number of cameras.

All this is really important, but a window is also the window opening itself, its size and shape, details of the internal and exterior finishing, accessories. Nice window must be correct in everything.

Sun opening standards

Sunlight invigorates, gives a feeling of strength and health, tones nervous system, increases the body's resistance to disease.

Therefore, sufficient natural illumination of the premises is most important characteristic the right windows. It depends on their size, shape and location.

An exact calculation can be made by an architect, based on the requirements of the DBN “Residential Buildings”, “Natural and artificial lighting» and a number of construction standards.

But you can roughly determine the parameters yourself.

Windows in residential premises should be 5.5-8 times less area floor. Thus, in a room of 20 sq.m. The window area should be about 2.5-3.5 m2. When installing attic models, a ratio of 1:10 is allowed.

In case there are other buildings near the house or tall trees, the glass area needs to be increased.

In principle, no one will forbid you to make an opening in the entire wall, but you must remember: the larger the glazing area, the more insulated the windows should be. At the same time, too small windows make the room dark and visually make it smaller.

When planning your living space, pay attention to the location of the windows in the cardinal directions. Living rooms if possible, they should “look” to the south, southwest or southeast. On the north side, it is better to make smaller windows and place utility rooms in this part of the house that do not require bright natural light.

The installation height of windows depends on functional purpose premises: in the bedroom or nursery it is better to place them at a level of 70-100 cm from the floor to ensure good view to the surrounding area; in the kitchen - at a height of 125 cm, which will allow you to place a table in front of the window; in bathrooms and utility rooms The window installation height varies between 130-175 cm.

To determine optimal height windows, you need to subtract the height of the window sill and the thickness of the window lintel (about 0.4 m) from the ceiling level. Thus, for a 3 m floor, a window with a height of 1.6-1.8 m would be optimal.

At equal area greatest light output near windows square shape. Those extended upward or wider give a little less light, and the difference grows with increasing wall thickness.

If desired, the window can be made of almost any size and shape. This is determined, first of all, by the stylistic decision of the house. Modern profiles allow the implementation of arched, arched, ellipsoidal, trapezoidal windows. Just remember that increasing the area and complicating the shape of windows increases their cost.


Division into sashes

Windows are classified according to the number of sashes into single, double, triple and multi-leaf.

According to the regulations, constructive solution window units must provide for the possibility of ventilating the premises, that is, within each room there must be at least one opening sash.

They are also necessary for cleaning windows.

The advantage of blind shutters is lower cost (due to the lack of opening/closing systems) and better light output due to a slightly narrower profile.

Ideally, the opening flap has a width and height proportion of 3:5 and maximum dimensions of up to 80x130 cm.

Accordingly, if the width of the window opening is more than 1.5 m, it is more correct to use a double-leaf window, and for openings of 2 m or more - a structure with three or more sashes.

Particularly successful is the symmetrical division three-leaf window, in which two side opening doors have same sizes, and the middle valve is blind and slightly wider. In multi-leaf windows, you can alternate between fixed and opening sashes.

If the window is very high, then you can make a blind horizontal transom along the top, and place opening sashes below it.

Finally, in an already installed window, if desired, you can replace a blind sash with an opening one or vice versa. The specialist will do this without consequences for the rest of the window structure.

By the method of opening, the most popular are tilt-and-turn windows - they can be swung to the side or opened at an angle vertically, providing ventilation, for which a window was previously provided. Such models also have a “micro-ventilation” mode, in which a small gap is formed between the sash and the frame.

In addition, there are several other types of windows according to the method of opening - for example, sliding, accordion-folding models, as well as windows with a sash that rotates around an axis.


The role of quality fittings

It's obvious that modern windows must withstand significant loads while remaining reliable, durable, comfortable and attractive. Their operation is ensured by various accessories.

And not only handles, hinges and locks, but also complex mechanisms opening/closing.

High-quality fittings should not have power parts made of plastic.

An indirect indicator of reliability - smooth and quiet operation fittings: the window should open without effort, the handle should move easily, without jerking or squeaking. You should also check the fit and security of the screws in window frame, and tighten them if necessary.

To ensure long-term operation of the fittings, it must be lubricated every six months with a composition that does not contain acids and resins, such as machine oil or technical petroleum jelly. Construction supermarkets also have special products.

If the window does not close tightly or the handle is loose, adjustments can be made by specialists from companies providing repair services. In extreme cases, the fittings will have to be replaced (to do this, you will need to find products from the same manufacturer to match the technological holes).

It is important to know that even very good and reliable fittings will not save what is poorly assembled or incorrectly assembled installed window- due to uneven loads it will fail over time.

In addition to the main one, additional useful fittings can be installed on the windows. For example, the handle in a child's window is equipped with a lock with a key: while the lock on the handle is locked, it cannot be turned. The rotation limiter will fix the window in extreme open position. The latch will help keep the window ajar during strong winds, and the slot vent will help avoid drafts.

In addition, there are anti-burglary fittings: steel strikers, hinges reinforced with angles, plates that prevent the handle from being drilled, and so on.

Seals

Particular attention is paid to seals - gaskets around the perimeter of the window between the frame and sashes, which perform heat and sound insulation functions. For our climate, light ones are preferable silicone seals: unlike rubber ones, they do not harden in the cold.

The main feature of a high-quality seal is elasticity (it should quickly and completely restore its shape after compression).

Manufacturers promise up to 30 years of seal service life, which is comparable to the service life of the window as a whole. In reality, temperature changes, dust accumulation and rubber drying reduce their operating time to 5-10 years.

To extend the life of the seal, it must be cleaned of dust and lubricated with silicone for rubber once or twice a year. But if the windows begin to noticeably let air through, and moisture seeps in during slanting rain, the seal must be replaced.

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