We design a doorway from drywall with our own hands. Installation instructions for a drywall doorway How beautiful it is to make a drywall doorway

The ease of processing gypsum boards allows them to be used for a variety of purposes, including for decorating window and door openings. Moreover, it is possible both to decorate doorways with plasterboard, when this material is only sheathed on the planes of capital partitions, and to design doors in partitions made of plasterboard.

Making a door with the help of drywall is quite simple, but still some nuances should be taken into account. That is why in this article we will consider in detail all the stages of this operation to change the interior of your home.

Doors in plasterboard partitions

How to reduce the size of the passage

When remodeling an apartment, we quite often encounter a situation where the width of the doorway is excessive and needs to be reduced. You can perform this operation using drywall, and below is an instruction that allows you to do it yourself and with minimal time, effort and money.

Note!
It is very important that there is a layer of plaster on the wall near the entrance, the thickness of which is equal to or greater than the thickness of the GKL sheet. In this case, the new opening will be as even as possible!

We reduce the size as follows:

First, on one side of the doorway, remove the plaster 10-15 cm from the edge.
Then we apply markings on the walls and floor of the room, outlining the contours of our future drywall frame.
We attach fragments of the starting profile to the floor and to the ceiling according to the markings.
We insert rack profiles into the starting profile and connect them with self-tapping screws or tongs for galvanized metal.

Advice!
To provide the frame with greater rigidity, wooden bars can be laid in the profile - the so-called "mortgages". The length of the bars should be equal to the length of the profiles.

When the frame is ready, we cut out the drywall fragments we need.
Having applied glue for drywall to the sections of the wall cleared of plaster, we fasten the resulting sheets to the base, and after polymerization of the glue, we fix the edges of the sheets to the frame using self-tapping screws.

We sew up the slope of the new opening with a strip of plasterboard, after which we putty all the joints and prepare the surfaces for finishing.

This technology is the simplest. It is much more difficult to figure out how to make a door in a drywall wall, i.e. in a hollow plasterboard partition.

Door in frame partition

Doors in a partition made of GCR boards should be designed at the stage of erecting the partition itself.

In order for the doorway to have sufficient mechanical characteristics for efficient operation, the following recommendations must be followed:

At the stage of marking in the lower part, we mark the planned location of the future doorway. Its dimensions should be somewhat larger than we need, since part of the width will inevitably “eat” the finish.
According to the markup, we attach two segments of the starting profile to the floor, which will act as the basis for the vertical racks.
We put the vertical rack profiles into the starting profile and securely fasten them, after which we fasten them to the same profile on the ceiling.
As in the case of changing the dimensions of the passage, we lay wooden beams in the rack profile. To ensure sufficient rigidity, we fasten the bars to the profile with self-tapping screws in increments of 30-40 cm. The price of a wooden bar on the market is low, so the increase in the cost of the structure will be insignificant - but the mechanical properties of the frame will seriously improve!
We continue to assemble the door frame, connecting the vertical posts with horizontal profiles. The sequence of assembling the frame for plasterboard structures is shown in the video instructions posted on the portal.

The finished frame must be sheathed with drywall. When sawing plasterboard, try to keep the junction of two sheets located above the doorway - this way there is less risk of cracks.

Sheathing the frame with sheets of drywall and subsequent finishing is carried out in the same way as in the previous case.

Advice!
If the door leaf planned for installation in this partition has a significant mass, then before sheathing the doorway with plasterboard, additional wooden spacers can be installed inside.
Also, a good result is obtained by covering the frame with gypsum board in two layers.

Drywall arch design

And yet the most common drywall doorways are arched structures placed in place of the removed doors. Most often, arches are made either at the entrance to the kitchen, or at the junction of the hallway or living room.

The arch from the GKL is mounted as follows:

First, remove the door and remove the old door frame. If necessary, we increase the dimensions of the passage between the rooms to make it more spacious.
In the upper part of the opening, we fix the base for the frame of the future arch, using starting profile elements made of galvanized metal.
To the base we attach the arc part of the crayfish, made of an incised profile (as shown in the photo).

Next, you need to complete the lining of the arched part. At the first stage, we attach flat elements to the crate, which form the front surfaces of our future door.
It is important here to cut the arc parts very precisely, since it will be difficult to align them with drywall putty.

The final part of the skin is the most difficult. We need to sheathe the inner curved surface of the arched passage.

For this:

Cut off a strip of material of the appropriate size.
Having laid the drywall on a flat surface, we roll it with a special needle roller, after which we slightly moisten it with water.
We carefully bend the strip processed in this way, and, attaching it to the frame, fasten it with self-tapping screws.

On this, the installation of the drywall doorway itself is completed - we just have to glue all the seams with reinforcing tape, fix the protective strip on the corners and putty all the irregularities. After completing all these operations, the new arched opening is ready for finishing!

We hope that thanks to the recommendations given in the article, you figured out how to make a drywall opening. And now, if you have such a need, you will definitely approach the task “fully armed”!

With your own hands, changing the appearance of your home is a favorite thing for many owners. And drywall is a material that is a multifunctional tool in matters of repair. It is known what unusual, luxurious ceilings can be made from drywall, how partitions from plasterboard turn one room into two, how drywall sheets are used to construct shelves and niches. So the doorway can be sheathed with plasterboard, and do it on a budget, beautifully and, most importantly, with your own hands.

How to make a doorway from drywall with your own hands

The doorway is trimmed with drywall most often in the process of redevelopment of the apartment. The simplest option is a rectangular opening, but more and more often, the owners prefer to add zest to the interior and give the doorway a curved shape.

The first stage of repair is the dismantling of the old door. A hammer and nail puller will come in handy at this stage. First, the door is carefully removed from the hinges, the platbands are removed and, in fact, the door is dismantled. If jambs are fixed on the floor, they are sawn off and carefully removed.

After that, the most important stage comes - covering the opening with sheets of drywall. This process is not complete without some technological features.

Drywall door installation

Work on the construction of a drywall doorway is carried out in several stages:

Rigid frame. This is the basis of the future opening, the structure on which the sheathing sheets are attached. To get such a frame, you need to fix the partition from the UW and CW profile systems. UW-profiles are fixed at the base of the ceiling and floor - these are the details of the base, and the vertical rack systems of CW profiles will lie on the sides of the opening.
To fix the upper dimensions opening, you need a transverse bar - it will be located at the top.
Height and width the doorway will determine the parameters of the box.
cutting drywall and material preparation. Given the dimensions of the door block, as well as the room, the GKL is cut. If there is a need for soundproofing, purchase mineral wool or glass wool.
Fix Sheets drywall is needed on self-tapping screws, lowering the heads of the self-tapping screws into the base by 2 mm.
Installation is completed the fact that the seams are sealed with a sickle tape, puttying is carried out, and the primer completes the work.

When the surface dries, the opening is waiting for the finishing decorative finish.

Creating a drywall doorway (video instruction)

Drywall interior openings - arch option

The arched interior opening is a favorite option for interior solutions for many compatriots. This is explained by the geometric perfection of the design, as well as by the fact that installation and finishing are not complicated, and thus you can modify the doorway with your own hands.

The construction of the archway:

Project development. The height and diameter are determined. The easiest way is to make a small sketch on paper, which will then become the basis of a full-size template.
Installation of a metal profile. A U-shaped profile would be the best solution. It is both rigid and durable, and is suitable for making an arched arc. The length of the profile is calculated, cuts are made on the cut off part with special scissors (step - 1 cm) to shape the frame. According to the template, the profile is bent.
Drywall installation- preparation. On one side of the drywall strip to be bent, continuous cuts are made with a centimeter step. The strip is then broken along the cuts, it becomes possible to give it the desired shape. The bottom of the arch should be the side where the plaster is glued. And on top there will be a side with cuts.
Arch installation. The surface of the doorway is preliminarily leveled, the metal profile is strengthened on both sides of the doorway. Using the template, the sides of the arch are cut out. Sidewall control for the sake of being applied to the spot. If one sidewall came up, the second is being prepared. That is, in this place the first sidewall will be the template. Next, you need to attach the previously curved profile to the installed straight one.

When you screw in the self-tapping screws, do not press very hard on the screwdriver handle, otherwise the metal profile may bend and the structure will lose its shape.

Plasterboard decoration of the doorway in the form of an arch: types of arches

Interior openings, which you can turn into beautiful arches with your own hands, are different. Someone is closer to the classics, someone needs exotic or originality.

Types of arches and their features:

romantic. The corners of such an arch are rounded, and the upper part is straight. Not a very common option, but if there is a task to save on material, this type of arch corresponds to this goal.
Classic. Such arches differ in a rounded upper part, the radius of the arch is half the width of the doorway. Be careful those who build this arch in a space with low ceilings - such a design will “eat up” the space even more.
Semiarka. This is either a very small radius of the circle, or only one rounded corner. Coexists in any modern interior.
Modern. Suitable for thick floors. Large radius of curvature.

Video instruction: how to make a drywall arch

But what to do if you decide to seal the doorway with drywall?

Plasterboard doorways: the option of "stitching"

This is done in several stages, not so difficult as not to do it yourself.

Process step by step:

Dismantling of the old door and door frame.
Clearing the opening.
The profile is installed on the ceiling of the opening.
Two side posts are installed along the edges of the doorway, one in the middle (vertical).
A strip is cut out of the GKL according to the size of the frame, it is attached to the metal crate with self-tapping screws.
Do the same on the other side. It turns out that the lining is carried out on both sides.

How to seal a doorway with drywall (video)

Both installation and dismantling of the doorway are not so difficult. The main thing is to take the right measurements, not be too lazy to make a template, and make all the necessary cuts with high quality and accuracy.

A drywall doorway has many “pluses”, the main ones are that this design is done on its own, and the material used is inexpensive. Try and you transform your home in such a simple but effective way.

Installation of a plasterboard partition with a doorway allows you to easily and quickly make two small rooms out of a large room. In the simplest version, this is an ordinary working partition with a door installed in it, but with a creative approach to business, this design can really decorate the interior.

Of course, it will not be possible for a beginner to make such an option on their own, as in the presented photo. First you need to master the basics of working with drywall, and you need to start small. For example, you can make a doorway in a drywall partition - and the instructions in this article will help you with this.

One of the most popular concepts of modern interior design is the constructive delimitation of space, which allows dividing it into several zones. But if you look at things more realistically, then most owners of residential real estate are not up to design.

They often need to put up a partition with a door in order to allocate, though not large, but a separate room for a grown-up child, or a young married couple who still have to live with their parents. How to adequately cope with such a difficult task?

On request: “Do-it-yourself drywall doorway video”, you can find and watch videos with master classes from professionals. But we think that the theory will not hurt either - especially for those who have never encountered such work before.

Necessary materials and tools

Making a doorway for drywall requires, of course, some skill, but before you start this work, you should stock up on the necessary tools. First of all, you will need two planes specially designed for working with gypsum boards. They are called: peeling and edging: the cut line of the sheet is processed first, and the second is necessary in order to cut a chamfer on it at a certain angle.

Drywall sheets are cut with a knife with a reinforced blade. However, in some cases, a special hacksaw is used, which you see below. To cut the profile, you can use ordinary metal scissors. For the rest, general construction tools are used, which are in the arsenal of each owner: a puncher with drills, a screwdriver, a hammer, a set of screwdrivers.

It is easiest to sheathe the doorway with drywall - the main thing is that the frame is correctly installed under it. The main role here is played by the correct markup, which cannot be done without a building level, a plumb line, a coloring cord, and a tape measure with a magnetic hook at the end. Professional installers use a completely different tool for this - but they also have the appropriate amount of work.
Of the materials, you will need two types of metal profiles: a guide mounted around the perimeter of the partition (floor, walls, ceiling), and a rack, on the shelves of which stiffening ribs are provided. Profiles of domestic production, mark PN and PS, for an imported profile, indicate UW and CW, respectively.

Note! During installation, the profiles are joined, so you need to select them in pairs - so that the height of the rack shelf matches the width of the rail back: UW 75 * 40 mm and CW 75 * 50 mm.

The bearing capacity of the profile directly depends on the size of the section, and the longer the span, the thicker the partition will be. It should also correspond to the width of the door frame, which is installed in the opening. Therefore, the size of the profiles must be appropriate.
To strengthen the drywall doorway, you will need a couple more wooden bars. Since they will have to be inserted inside the racks framing the opening, the cross section of the beam must correspond to the size of the profile. And, of course, you can not do without fasteners in the work. To fix the guides, you will need a dowel-nails 6 * 40, for mounting the sheathing - self-tapping drywall-metal screws 3.5 * 25 mm.

The fastening of the frame elements to each other is carried out with small self-tapping screws. The price of such a tool is not so high - you can buy an inexpensive option in the range of 580-980 rubles. But the connections are more rigid, and the work is progressing much faster.
It remains only to buy 60 cm wide basalt mineral wool, which is used for internal filling of the structure and, in fact, sheathing material. To mount a plasterboard doorway in a working partition, you need to take a wall plasterboard with a thickness of at least 12.5 mm.

And even better, use not drywall, but GV sheets - they have greater strength, as they are reinforced throughout the mass with asbestos fiber. The width of the sheets is standard: 1200 mm, but the length is selected depending on the height of the partition.

If it is higher than 2500 mm, then it is better to take sheets 3000 mm long - so you do not have to insert narrow strips along the top. Accordingly, before sheathing the doorway with drywall, the sheet is oriented vertically with the long side.

Frame part of the structure

So, everything that is required for work has been prepared - now we will figure out what and how to do it. You need to start by preparing the surfaces. Of course, you won’t have to level them, but you may need to remove the floor covering, dismantle the wall or ceiling cladding, if any.

Mounting guides

The guide profile is mounted on the floor first, for which the starting line is beaten off with a marking cord. On it, you should measure the distance between the walls, after which you can cut the profile into pieces of the required length.

Even under a small partition, the lower guide profile cannot be solid, since there will be an opening in it - which means that at least two pieces will have to be cut out.

So:

When cutting a profile, you must always minus 5-6 mm, so that during thermal expansion it does not rest against the walls. Then, on the back side of the profile shelf, you need to stick a sealing tape made of polyethylene foam. The tape is needed to improve the sound insulation of the structure, and also serves as a kind of shock-absorbing substrate.

Now you can mount the profile. To do this, it is applied to the marking line, and holes for dowels are drilled right through it. Drilling is done at intervals of one meter, but in any case, each profile must be fixed in three places.
After the guide is installed on the floor, the level marking line is transferred to the ceiling. The profile is mounted on it in the same way, only its length should be measured along the ceiling, and not along the floor, since serious errors can occur due to deviations of opposite walls in height or vertical.
The same applies to the carrier profile. Before cutting it off, under each rack you need to measure the height of the room exactly in the place where it will be installed. When cutting profiles, not 5, but 10 mm should be subtracted from this figure - after all, in addition to thermal expansion, it is also worth considering the thickness of the metal of the guides.

First, wall profiles are mounted, sticking a sealing tape on them in the same way, as was done on the floor and ceiling.

When the base is concrete or brick, then dowel-nails are used as fasteners. If the vertical guides have to be mounted to the plasterboard sheathing, then the fastening is done with self-tapping screws in the rack profile of the walls, or special butterfly-shaped dowels are used.

Racks and jumpers

As soon as the frame along the contour of the partition is ready, they begin to install the pillars of the doorway. We have already mentioned that they are reinforced with wooden blocks, but there is another way.

If the door is not too heavy (no more than 30 kg), then the experts do this.

In this case, the support posts are made of two profiles by the nozzle method - that is, the shelves of one element are brought inside the other and pressed well. Then their ends of the double profile are led into the guides, and fastened with self-tapping screws or a cutter. Between the vertical elements of the opening there must be a distance corresponding to the width of the door block.

Once the racks are securely fixed, you can proceed with the installation of the horizontal jumper of the opening. Cut it out of the guide profile. The length of the jumper is the sum of the distance between the racks. We also add a plus 10 cm margin for bending, which is necessary in order to join the jumper with the vertical elements of the frame. How to cut and bend the ends of the profile is perfectly shown in the picture below.
Now you need to strengthen the jumper. To do this, you need to install one or two short racks above it, which will connect two horizontal structural elements. The number of racks above the lintel depends not only on its length, but also on how the drywall is mounted around the doorway.

If it is a solid sheet that completely covers the opening, then one rack is enough. In this case, the excess part of the plasterboard, which closes the opening, is cut out with a hacksaw after the sheet is mounted on the frame. If the skin elements are cut in advance and then joined, there must be at least two racks above the jumper.
Next, mount the intermediate vertical frame elements. The step between them should be no more than 60 cm so that the sheet, whose width is 1200 mm, is fixed both at the edges and in the center. To make this possible, the backs of all profiles must be facing you.

Where it is necessary to join the sheets horizontally, it is necessary to install the same jumpers as above the doorway. All load-bearing elements of the frame must be double. This is necessary so that they can be sheathed on both sides - otherwise, you will have to install two parallel frames.

Partition frame sheathing

Let's say you want to make a backlight, install sockets or switches on the partition. After the "skeleton" of the partition is mounted, it's time to lay the wiring in it.

The cable must be perpendicular to the racks, and pass it through specially prepared holes in the profile shelves. Laying wiring inside the profiles is unacceptable!

Next, you can proceed to the installation of drywall. Cutting the sheet along the length should be carried out so that it is less than the height of the room by 10 mm. GKL is attached to the rack profile with drywall-metal screws measuring 3.5 * 25 mm. Fastenings along the rack are carried out at a distance of a maximum of 250 mm, and they begin to fasten the sheet in the direction from the center to the edges.

The end of the sheet on which the chamfer was cut should adjoin the ceiling surface, and the outermost screw should be at least 15 mm away from it. Fastenings made on joined sheets must necessarily be offset by about 10 mm. Self-tapping screws should go straight into the GKL, and go deep into the rack no less than a centimeter.
When making fasteners, you need to make sure that the heads of the screws enter the thickness of the drywall by about 1 mm, which is necessary for subsequent puttying - just don't overdo it too much. The sheet adjacent to the wall must be cut in width, cut the edge, and chamfer.

Making openings: plasterboard partition, ready for finishing

If the sheet extends beyond the perimeter of the doorway, after it is fully fixed, it is easy to cut it very much. They do this with a hacksaw, after piercing it with a sharp end, a sheet in the corner of the opening. When performing sheathing, it must be remembered that the joints of the elements should not be placed on the racks along which the door frame will be mounted.

Now that one side of the partition is completely ready, fill its cavity with mineral wool. This is a heater (see) - but in this case, it plays the role of a soundproof layer.

Then it remains only to cover the second side of the structure with sheathing - and your partition is ready for puttying and finishing. For information on how to do this correctly, you will learn from the video in this article.

There are two options for placing the door, depending on the requirements for its position. If the location of the doorway is strictly defined, the structure is “tied” to it and adjusted so that the drywall joints do not fall on the door pillars (Fig. 1, a).

In the case when the position of the opening can be varied, it can be "embedded" in the structure, that is, made where there are no joints (Fig. 1, b). It is better to arrange the opening so that there are two structural posts on both sides of the profiles framing the doorway. They can be connected to several door lintels, which further strengthens the door unit.

It is possible to attach door frames to the vertical post profile of the partition frame without installing additional stiffeners, subject to the following conditions: the height of the partition does not exceed 2600 mm; door leaf width - no more than 900 mm; the weight of the door leaf - does not exceed 25 kg.

The rigidity of the partition with the doorway in this case will be ensured with a reliable connection of the rack and guide profiles, which, in turn, must be fixed to the ceiling with dowels at a distance of no more than 100 mm from the opening. Above the doorway, the rack profiles must be untied with a crossbar that increases the rigidity of the entire structure of the door frame. Between the crossbar and the upper rail, 1-2 intermediate racks must be installed.

There are three ways to make a crossbar over a doorway.

1st way. In a segment of the PN-profile, equal in length to the width of the doorway plus 60 mm, cuts with a depth of 30 mm are made with scissors. Then the back of the profile is bent at an angle of 90° (Fig. 2, a). The resulting part is fixed with self-tapping screws on posts from the PS-profile of the doorway (Fig. 2, b). The fastening of the sidewalls of the crossbar is carried out on the shelves and the bent back.

2- th way. In the shelves, cuts are made with scissors at an angle of 45 ° and the back is bent. On fig. 2c shows a doorway post with a lintel with shelves notched at a 45° angle and a back bent at an angle of 90°. The jumper is fastened to the rack at four points - two on the bent part and two on the jumper itself. That is, a total of eight attachment points for the jumper.

3- th way. The jumper above the door frame is made from a segment of the PN-profile guide, along the length equal to the width of the doorway plus approximately 200 mm. Having marked the width of the opening on the profile, cut the shelves to the back with scissors and bend the ends at an angle of 90 ° (Fig. 2, d). Attach the finished jumper in place with self-tapping screws through the bent backs (Fig. 2, e). For reinforcement, wooden bars with a section along the width of the PN-profile are inserted into the corners and fixed on both sides with screws at the bend of the profile (Fig. 3, a). This will ensure the reliability of the design. Inserting bars into corners is the "know-how" of Russian masters; there is no such information in the technological instructions of drywall manufacturers.

If one of the above conditions exceeds the norm, then the racks of the partition frame framing the opening must be strengthened. The company "Rigips" and the German company "Knauf" (in the sense of the main company in Germany) recommend the use of reinforced UA profiles with a thickness of 2 mm. Their width corresponds to standard CW/UW wall profiles - 50.75 and 100 mm. UA profiles are fixed to the floor and ceiling with connecting brackets.

Rice. 2. Manufacturing and fastening of the crossbeams of the doorway:

a - the manufacture of the sidewall of the crossbar (the back is cut and bent at an angle of 90 °); b - crossbar with sidewalls (the backs are notched and bent at an angle of 90 °) in the frame of the partition; c - doorway post with plug-in corners and a crossbar with a sidewall (the shelves are notched at an angle of 45 °, the back is bent at an angle of 90 °): 1 - PS profile, 2 - PN profile, 3 - crossbar, 4 - LN9 screw, 5 - bottom bracket for door jamb, 6 - top bracket for door jamb; d - crossbar with sidewall (the backs are cut at an angle of 90 °, the back is bent at an angle of 90 °): 1 - stand, 2 - crossbar, 3 - LN9 screw; e - doorway frame with plug-in corners and crossbar with sidewalls (shelves cut at an angle of 90 °, the back is bent at an angle of 90 °): 1 - lower guide, 2 - upper guide, 3 - door jamb rack, 4 - plug-in corner for door jamb lower, 5 - plug-in corner for the door jamb upper, b - crossbar.

The corners are fixed to the floor and ceiling with dowels and connected to the reinforced profile with an M8 bolt with a washer and nut. In our practice, this reinforcement is carried out either by pressing a wooden beam into a rack and then fixing it with screws (see Fig. 3, a, b), or by installing an additional profile (Fig. 3, c).

The maximum weight of the door leaf depends on the selected profile. According to German and Austrian standards, a door leaf weighing 30 kg can be installed in a CW50 profile frame, 40 kg in a CW75 profile frame, and 49 kg in a CW100 profile frame. When using reinforced UA profiles (thickness 2 mm), the weight of the door leaf for installation in the partition frame increases and amounts to 50 kg for the UA50 profile, 75 kg for the UA75 profile, and 100 kg for the UA100 profile.

Window openings and niches in partitions are reinforced with racks according to the same principle as a doorway.

Making a doorway in a frame partition near the wall to which the partition adjoins is no different from those described above. On the guide profile, which will be attached to the base wall, mark the length from floor to ceiling with lines. Then add to each side the length of a short section of the partition and cut off the excess with sharp scissors. Along the lines of the floor and ceiling, the profile shelves are cut to the back and the tips of the corners are cut a little in these places so that they do not interfere with bending. The ends of the profile are bent along the marking lines at an angle of 90 °. Using a plumb line and a building level, level and fix the guide profile with dowel-nails (Fig. 4).

October 22, 2016
Specialization: master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and laying flooring. Installation of door and window blocks, facade finishing, installation of electrics, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

In this review, I will tell you how to make a drywall doorway with your own hands. Moreover, we will not consider some separate option, as they do in most reviews, but we will deal with all the most popular types of structures, you must decide in advance which technology is best for your situation. The right choice will not only provide the best result, but will also simplify the workflow and reduce project costs.

opening types

The conditions for the construction of structures can be different, so you do not need to listen to someone's advice about the advantages of one or another option. You should familiarize yourself with all the technologies for carrying out work and, based on the information received, make an informed and informed decision.

Option 1 - partition with an opening

If you need to make a wall with a doorway, then this section will help you understand the technology and carry out the work quickly and efficiently. This method is in great demand in new buildings, where you get a room in which there are no partitions, and you determine the layout yourself, you can also redevelop the existing space, of course, if you agreed on everything in advance.

This option must be considered as a whole - from the beginning of planning the partition to its assembly, since it is impossible to first make a wall, and then build an opening in the right place, everything is thought out in advance. Whether it's a drywall wall with a door or an arch, it's important to make a solid partition that will last for years.

The workflow consists of several stages, each of which is important. Therefore, all the recommendations below must be followed. Let's start with the planning stage:

To begin with, you need to clearly define the place where the future wall will pass, here you should carefully consider everything so that later it does not turn out that you missed any important nuances. For those who do the work on their own, due to lack of experience and haste, mistakes and miscalculations often occur, so you should not determine everything by eye, it is better to estimate everything using a tape measure;
When you clearly know the location of the wall, you can begin to determine the exact location of the opening. It all depends on the layout of your premises, its configuration and future. It is important that the end result is not only attractive, but also convenient, think about where the location of the opening or door will be the most rational;

If you clearly know the location of the wall and the opening, then making a drawing will not be difficult. For the example above, a variant is shown indicating the structural elements so that you can plan their position as well. The guide profile sets the position of the wall, the racks create a plane, and the lintels increase strength, of course, a frame is made around the perimeter of the opening;
You can not consider the stage completed until you mark the position of the structure in the room. This will simplify your further work, and will allow you to see errors, for example, too little space or interference in the form of communications. The marking is made along the ceiling, after which the lines are transferred to the floor using a plumb line - this option allows you to make an ideal vertical and eliminate the errors that are necessarily present when working with the level.

You can use a more modern solution for marking - a laser level. It is he who is most often used by specialists, if you have the opportunity to borrow such equipment for a while, then you can work with it, the main thing is to ask for advice on the operation of the level, the opinion that anyone can use it is erroneous.

It is impossible to carry out work without a certain set of materials, the list looks like this:

materials	Description
Drywall	Use the wall version with a thickness of 12.5 mm, you should not use ceiling sheets, their strength is low and even a child can break through such walls. Naturally, if the design is made for a room with high humidity, then it is necessary to purchase moisture-resistant drywall, which is easy to distinguish by the green color of the outer coating.
Metal profile	I strongly recommend not to save money and purchase a solid rack-mount profile 50x100 mm in size and 50x50 mm guide elements. Adapting a regular profile is not the best idea, it has low strength, and a wall thickness of 6 cm will not allow you to achieve good sound insulation and structural rigidity
Mineral wool	We will fill the cavities for sound and heat insulation of the partition with it. Ordinary roll materials are suitable, they are cheaper than specialized options, but, as practice shows, this option is enough for effective noise absorption
fasteners	This includes dowels for quick installation and self-tapping screws of various types, with their help the structure is assembled into a single whole. The most commonly used dowels are 6x40, self-tapping screws 3.5x11 mm and 3.5x25 mm

As for the tool, you will need the following set to work:

Perforator for drilling holes for dowels. If your walls and floor are wooden, then there is no need for this tool;
Screwdriver - you definitely can’t do without this device, wrapping a huge number of self-tapping screws with your hands is a bad idea.
To cut the profile, ordinary metal scissors are used, the main thing is that they are sharp;
To control the position of each element, a level is needed, and for measurements and marking it is worth having a tape measure and a construction pencil on hand;
Drywall cutting is done with an ordinary construction knife, to simplify the work, you can additionally use a metal ruler, then the cutting line will be perfectly even.

Now let's figure out how to build a structure frame, the work instructions look like this:

A guide profile is laid out along the previously made markings; if necessary, individual elements are cut with metal scissors. Moreover, at the corners it is not necessary to cut the element completely, you can make cuts on the side shelves and simply bend it, so the design will be tougher;
Next, you need to mark the surface of the walls, floor and ceiling for drilling holes for dowels. The pitch of the dowels is 50-60 cm, the work is simple, but it requires a certain amount of time. The hammer drill is very noisy, so do not use it in the morning and evening;
The guide profile is fixed with dowels, for this they are first inserted into the hole, and then impact screws are hammered into them, everything is very simple and fast;

Racks are inserted into the finished structure along the perimeter of the partition and fixed with self-tapping screws at a distance of 60 cm from each other. For work, the so-called "bugs" are used, they allow you to securely connect the elements of the frame.

Now let's figure out how to make an opening, because this is the main goal of our review, everything is simple here:

Two partition profiles are placed along the edges, if you are thinking of placing a door in the structure, then the width of the opening should be 5 cm larger than the door frame. If you have an arch, then keep in mind that drywall will be fixed to the surface, which needs to be finished with a decorative coating and putty, this also takes up some space;
It is desirable to strengthen the opening, there are two main options: either insert the profile into the profile so that you get a square rack, or insert a wooden block of a suitable size into the groove and fix it with self-tapping screws. Both solutions showed themselves well, the reinforcement has not harmed anyone yet, even if you make an arch, you can later hang the door as well, the reinforced opening will allow this;

The entire structure can be reinforced with transverse jumpers, their number depends on the size of the structure and its rigidity, sometimes reinforcement is not required at all.

If wiring will take place inside the structure, then it must be laid at this stage in special corrugations. Then the following work is done:

First you need to clad one of the walls with drywall, after which you can start laying the soundproofing material, it is located so that there are as few gaps and voids in the cavity as possible, this will provide the best result;

After laying the material, the structure is completely sheathed, if a door is located inside the opening, then it is not necessary to sheathe it along the inner perimeter, if there is an arch, then drywall strips are attached to the surface.

Finishing works do not differ from ordinary ones, so we will not consider them. The corners of the opening are necessarily reinforced with putty corners, they even out the joint and improve the appearance of the structure.

Option 2 - leveling the opening with drywall

This is a simpler solution that is used in cases where you need to quickly and accurately align the contours of the opening. There is much less work here than in the above version, but you still need to carefully deal with all the nuances of the technology.

To work we need the following:

Drywall - its quantity is determined in advance, most often one sheet is enough;
The adhesive composition for drywall is a special gypsum-based mixture that dries very quickly and firmly fixes the material on various substrates;
From the tool you need a knife for cutting drywall, a tape measure and a pencil for marking, a level for controlling the position of the elements and a container for preparing the adhesive composition.

The workflow consists of several steps:

First of all, you need to prepare the surface of the opening: clean it from dirt, mortar influx and other elements that interfere with work. If there is significant damage on the base, then it is easier to repair them with cement mortar, it is not necessary to ideally display the planes, it is important to strengthen them and make them more or less even;
Then measurements of the opening are made in order to determine the dimensions of the drywall elements. First of all, I advise you to cut out only the top element and only after fixing it, cut the sidewalls, the width should be equal to the thickness of the wall, the length should allow the material to be freely located in the opening;

Before fixing drywall, I advise you to treat the surfaces with a strengthening primer, this will improve the adhesion of the adhesive and reduce the absorbency of the bases.

The adhesive composition is applied to the material with massive dots or, as builders call them, blotches. The element is gently pressed against the top of the slope, after which you need to use the level to set it to a perfectly even position. If you are worried about the reliability of fixation, then you can use 1-2 spacers, they can be removed after half an hour, the glue sets very quickly;

Next, measurements of the side elements are carried out, pieces of drywall are cut out and glued in the same way as on the top. It is easier to work with side slopes, the most important thing is not to forget to set them with the help of a level, it is unlikely that it will be possible to correct the curvature later;
When the composition dries, and it takes only a couple of hours, you can start finishing the structure, the gaps between the wall and the ends of the drywall can be filled with the same adhesive composition. Corners are placed at the corners to strengthen and align this part of the structure. Lastly, the surface is puttied and painted or covered with a decorative one.

The price of this option for finishing openings is low, but this solution has one significant drawback: a door cannot be fixed to such a surface, or a deep hole will have to be drilled so that the anchor can reach brick or concrete.

Option 3 - opening on a metal frame

If it is necessary to reduce the size of the opening or it is severely damaged, then the easiest way is to build a frame that will create structural rigidity and allow any base to be leveled. This option combines the two previous ones, since we will work with concrete or other walls, and the drywall is fixed to a metal frame.

Let's deal with the technology of work:

First of all, plaster is removed from one or two sides of the opening at a distance of 15-20 cm to the edge, this will allow you to set the material flush with the main surface and thereby greatly simplify the leveling process. Do not worry that you are removing a layer larger than the thickness of the drywall - due to the adhesive composition, this difference is compensated;
Then you need to use a level, tape measure and pencil to mark the position of the future structure, you need to make its outlines on the floor and the upper part of the opening so that you have clear guidelines during the work and do not confuse anything. Also, the markup will help you decide how to strengthen the structure and where to place the frame elements;

The next step is to fix the starting profile in the required places. Most often, you need to cut small elements and fasten with dowels or self-tapping screws. The markup made earlier serves as a guide, everything is very simple and convenient;

If you need to reduce the opening in height, then the frame is made in the upper part, its dimensions depend on the thickness of the walls, but remember that drywall will be attached on both sides, which means that from the frame to the wall plane should be at least 13 mm. That is, after sheathing the structure, the surface should be leveled;

If doorways are made of drywall, then from the side of hanging the canvas, it is desirable to strengthen the structure as I described above. It is important to ensure the rigidity of the system, so it is better to play it safe and strengthen it so that it can withstand even the heaviest door;
When the frame is ready, you can start measuring the dimensions of drywall, cutting and fastening them.. Moreover, the material is not attached in the usual way: if it comes to the surface of the wall, then there it sits on a gypsum adhesive, and in places where there is a frame, drywall is attached to it. The result is a very reliable design, the main thing is to monitor the location of the sheets using the level;
Lastly, the structure is puttyed, there are a few simple recommendations: corners must be used, at the joints you can strengthen the plane with a sickle mesh of the required width. It is important to make the plane even so that the joint between the plaster and the plaster is not visible at all.

Option 4 - building an arch

All three of the above options differed in implementation technology and design, but they all represented a right-sided opening of the required size. But if you decide to make an arch, then this section will help you cope with the work. This technology is suitable for all the above cases.

I will not talk about the entire workflow, but will dwell in detail only on the curved part. It is she who is the most difficult element in which you should understand as best as possible.

The workflow consists of the following steps:

First of all, you need to figure out how your arch will look like, the size of the frame and the installation of the structure depend on what shape you choose. When you decide, you can start fixing the base for the structure, it is made of a wall profile and is located on top and on the side so as not to interfere with the curved elements that will be installed later;
Then you need to make a blank for a curved element, for this a guide profile is taken and even cuts are made on it opposite each other at a distance of 3-4 cm along the entire length. The profile prepared in this way can be given the required shape afterwards;

Further, the element is bent as we need, here it is important to try on the finished product to the opening in order to control the dimensions and, if necessary, cut off the excess part. To simplify the work and improve the final result, be sure to make the second arched element in the shape of the first, and do not bend it separately, so you can get two identical parts;

The arched parts are fastened to a previously installed base; for rigidity, spacers can be installed at any angle in any place. Between themselves, the arched elements are connected through jumpers. You can also use hangers if you need to additionally fix a part of the profile somewhere, it all depends on your design, it is important that in the end it turns out to be strong;

When the structure is fixed, you can start sheathing the front sides, that is, sections of the wall in the upper part of the opening. It is very important to accurately cut the oval side, since then it will be very difficult to remove it with putty. You must transfer the exact bend to the material and cut it out, after which the sheet is fastened with self-tapping screws, you need everything to match as best as possible;

First you need to cut off a strip of drywall of the required length, everything is simple here: we measure the width and length of the curved part with a tape measure and transfer these indicators to the material;
Using a special needle roller, you need to make holes in the back of the drywall, it is easy to determine it by the inscriptions. You just need to go through this device, pressing it well, you should not be too zealous, otherwise you can ruin a piece and have to cut off another one;

The punched surface is wetted with water and left for a couple of minutes, after which the material can be bent. This should be done carefully, it is important not to damage the drywall;
Fastening is done with an assistant - one person holds the bent material, and the second fixes it with self-tapping screws. After drying, the structure will become rigid;

On the outer corners of the curved sections, I advise you to fix a special arched corner, and it is advisable to pre-paste the entire surface with fiberglass for strength. After that, you need to carry out puttying work, the end result will be durable and reliable if you follow all the above recommendations.

I am sometimes asked if it is possible to make a drywall door? In fact, this is possible, but the reliability of such a product will not be very high, it is much more reasonable to buy a finished design.

Conclusion

It is much easier to build an opening from drywall than from any other material, so almost anyone who has a desire to do the work on their own can handle the work. The video in this article will help you understand some of the nuances even better, and if you still have questions, then write them in the comments under this review.

October 22, 2016

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