The design of cantilever-type sliding gates. Installing sliding gates with your own hands: the process of installing electric gates with your own hands

An integral part of the fencing structure of a summer cottage is the gate. Today there are many varieties of them. Let's look at the process of making and installing sliding gates with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of this design

Advantages:

This gate design does not interfere with the exit/entry of a vehicle in a small area. Cantilever doors can significantly save space.
The presence of the lower fastening of the console system allows you to equip the gate in any climatic conditions.
The finishing can be made of different materials, for example, vertical lathing, corrugated board, forging and more.
Possibility of choosing a design option, for example, from a sandwich panel or corrugated sheet.
Compared to other types of gates (for example, swing gates), there is no such thing as sagging hinges. The existing automation and gate closing/opening mechanism provides for a long operational period.
It is possible to choose different automation for gates.

Flaws:

Unlike other types of gates, for example, swing gates, the installation of sliding gates requires more financial costs, approximately 10–20%.
To attach the console part and the drive, it is necessary to make an additional foundation.
You will need to allocate sufficient space along the fence.

The gate design is divided into several types, each of which differs from each other:

Hanging. Since Soviet times, this heavy, but at the same time reliable design has gained immense popularity. In it, the canvas on roller trolleys is fixed to a beam, which is located above the passage, up to 5 m high. As a result, this height is a limitation when tall vehicles enter.
Console. This type of gate is ideal for the climatic conditions of Russia. This design is not equipped with a beam above the driveway. Such gates will not be able to be damaged by snow drifts, wind, dust, etc. Thus, the canvas is fixed to the beam using roller carts. In this case, the entire structure is fixed on a powerful foundation, which is poured on the side of the opening.
On screw piles. Metal piles are screwed into the ground to a depth of 1500 mm, which will support the entire structure. Their production and installation will take up to 3 days.
Mechanical. These gates are opened/closed manually. Mechanical ones are much cheaper in cost and easier to install. They are suitable for cases where a dacha or country house is rarely used.
Automatic. Such gates are the complete opposite of mechanical ones. They are equipped with an electric drive and remote control. The best option for regular use.

Regardless of the type of construction, sliding gates require free space along the fence on one side. In this case, it must be equal in size to the opening. As for console systems, the space should be 120–200% larger.

Gate calculation features

Design calculation is one of the most important and priority stages. You should not ignore this stage, since the construction of sliding ones is much more complicated than swing ones.

The calculation process includes the following steps:

Determining the height and width of the opening. As a result, it will be possible to select the required type of gate for free movement.
Estimation of the weight of the structure being constructed.
Making a sketch or drawing.

The calculation of the width and height of the structure should be based on the market range. So, if a profile or pipe can be easily welded, then cutting sheets of corrugated board for the purpose of adding it is very difficult. Plus, the result will be unaesthetic.

Moreover, understanding the final weight of the structure, appropriate mechanisms and moving parts are selected that can cope with the load.

If the canvas is supposed to be large, then be sure to take into account the wind load. Add a small margin to the existing wind force prevailing in your area.

Although the easiest option for obtaining calculations is to contact a specialized company that will provide a folder with drawings and calculations, you can do this yourself. It is worth immediately noting that all of the above calculations apply to cantilever-type sliding gates. They are more complex than all other types, so let’s look at them in more detail.

The gate width (L) will be equal to:

opening width;
technological opening/closing intervals;
minimum distance between the centers of the carriages.

Based on this, L will be larger than the opening.

When moving, the doors must be balanced. This indicator is achieved by calculating the counterweight. Thanks to this, the specific gravity of the structure will be evenly distributed over the carriages. Accordingly, in order to have as little load as possible, the counterweight must be large.

But what if there is not enough space for the sash to move? In this case, it is necessary to understand that the length of the counterweight should not be less than 40% of the width of the sash. The ideal figure is 50%. As a consequence, the width L has a counterweight in its design.

Having such calculations, you can determine how much space is needed to roll back the gate along the fence.

This value is determined based on the weight of the material used:

Corrugated sheeting ~ equal to 4 kg/m2.
Steel, thickness 2 mm ~ 17 kg/m 2.

A gate with a 4x2 m frame will weigh on average 200 kg. Having such data, it is possible to determine the indicators of the guide beam. In this case, you can build on the established standard.

For a gate weighing 300 kg, a 9x5 cm beam with a thickness of at least 3.5 mm is sufficient. However, a safety margin of up to 40% is required. It will significantly simplify the operation of the gate and increase its service life.

The gate will require rollers, catchers and a support rail. Modern products of this type allow you to choose the desired design. As a basis, we will take the simplest estimate of the wind load, which is equal to 12 m/s to 90 kg/m2 and is evenly distributed over the support zones of the canvas.

How can you make sure that the structure you have made will work without interruption even in strong winds? To do this, it is necessary to ensure that the strength of the fittings is greater than the calculated weight of the gate. A lateral moment of 100 kg/m is also taken into account, multiplied by 8 kg/m, which equals 800 kg/m. In principle, this is not much ~ 150–180 kg/m for each supporting element.

When buying a roller mechanism, make sure that it has a margin of up to 30% in relation to the weight of the gate. But this indicator does not affect the service life in any way. This is directly affected by increasing the distance between the centers of the carriages.

In addition to all of the above, it is worth paying attention to other aspects. Pay attention to the gate rail, supports for roller carriages and the number of anchors. It is also important to correctly calculate the mortgages on the support pillars. In this case, it is necessary to start from 60% of the total mass of the gate, divided by the number of mortgages.

As for the calculation of the foundation, there are no special secrets here. But despite this, you should not lose sight of this component, because often the cost of the foundation reaches 40% of the total cost of the project.

This type of gate has the following structural elements:

Guide beam. Takes on all their weight.
Trolley or roller support. You need 2 of them.
Removable end roller. When closed, it serves as a support.
Upper/lower catcher. When the gate is closed, the lower one takes the load, and the upper one reduces the windage.
Bracket. It is important for keeping the sash from swinging sideways.
Stand. A support is installed on it, which organizes the movement of the sash.

Roller supports are installed on the foundation, which take on the load of the guide beam. The rollers are placed inside the supporting console.

Sash selection

The gate leaves are also subject to high demands. Its design must be sufficiently rigid and stable. This is important so that in the event of a strong gust of wind or ice, the sash functions well. Moreover, it must be equipped with additional stiffening ribs so that it does not sag under its own weight. All this should be taken into account when creating drawings.

The availability of certain components directly depends on the height and width of the sash, as well as its weight. So, today on the market you can find a number of companies that provide high-quality equipment, namely:

Combi Arialdo and Flatelli Comunello from Italy.
Roltek and Doorhan from Russia.
Alutech from Belarus.

For example, let's do some calculations. In the basic configuration, a supporting rail with a length of 6 m is necessarily installed. And in order to choose the right components for it, it is necessary to take into account the length of the sash plus 40%. Selection is also carried out according to the length of the guide beam and possible loads. So, if the width of the opening is 3.8 m, then the length of the door is 3.8 m + 40% = 5.32 m. In this case, you can purchase a ready-made set with a 6 m beam.

If the opening width significantly exceeds 4 m, then the purchase of components should be guided by a load of 500 kg. In them, the guide beam has a wall thickness of 3.5 m and a cross-section of 71 × 65 mm. If the width is more than 6 m, then it is necessary to take a load of up to 600 kg into account.

Installation work

The movement of the canvas should be carried out from the inside of the site, namely along the fence. Based on this, it is necessary to prepare a place for the gate so that absolutely nothing interferes with this process.

The installation process includes 4 steps:

Electrical wiring.
Installation of a response pole.
Automation installation.

Stages of foundation construction:

First, marking is carried out. Measure 500 mm from the fence (the width of the foundation). You also measure from the edge of the gate a distance equal to the rollback (the length of the foundation). So, you will see the perimeter of the future foundation.
It is often possible to use fence support posts. If this is not possible, then a counter post should be installed on the opposite side. It must be installed so that it is inside the area, and not in the opening itself. Otherwise, it will reduce the width of the opening.
If the gate will operate automatically, then be sure to organize a place for laying the wiring. To do this, you can use a square metal or plastic pipe/box. The diameter of the pipes is not less than 25 mm.
Now you can start digging a pit. The depth of the trench is up to 2 m, below the soil freezing level (different in each region).
To make the embedded element, you can use channel 16. Its length should correspond to the length of the trench. Reinforcement Ø12 mm is laid in the foundation. The reinforcement must be welded to the channel and connected with cross braces.
Thus, the resulting embedded element is placed with the reinforcement down. When laying, make sure that the side of the channel is adjacent to the fence support post. Also, the channel must be set strictly level and exactly parallel to the gate opening line.

The embedded element must be flush with the road surface. The minimum gap allowed between the bottom edge of the gate and the road is 10 cm. This gap can be increased using an adjustment platform. But it will be impossible to reduce this gap without breaking the fastenings.

If for one reason or another a gap of 100 mm is not suitable, then install the embedded element deeply.

As for concrete work, it is carried out when the installation of the embedded element is completely completed. The concrete level should be flush with the embedded element.

Installation

When the foundation has hardened, you can begin installing the gate. To do this, you first need to make markings. Along the line of the opening, not reaching the counter post 30 mm, pull the cord. This cord is the gate's movement path. The height of the cord tension is 200 mm. Further work looks like this:

Determine the extreme position of the first and second roller support. From the edge of the opening, step back 15 cm along the plane of the embedded element and draw a line for the position of the outermost first trolley. Calculate the line of the second cart as follows: measure the entire length of the gate with the cantilever part and subtract 10 cm from the edge of the return post along the plane of the embedded element. As a result, you will determine the location of the second cart.
Now insert the roller supports into the supporting profile, placing them in the center.

Afterwards it is necessary to weld the second trolley of the adjustment platform. Then roll the gate leaf into the opening and make final position adjustments. Make small tack welds by welding the second adjustment pad, the resulting action looks like this:

Remove the canvas from the roller cart.
Next, remove the carts from the platforms.
Weld the platforms to the embedded element.
Attach roller carts to them.
Slide the canvas onto the roller supports.
Close the gate and use a wrench to adjust its position.

You make holes inside the supporting profile, this is necessary in order to install the cart correctly. To do this, loosen the top nuts securing the carts to the platforms. After that, roll the gate back and forth. If the sash moves freely, tighten the nuts. If there are some difficulties in moving the sash, then slightly loosen the fasteners and level out all the design flaws, for example, correct the distortions of the trolley.

Now you need to install the end roller. It should be inserted into the supporting profile and the bolts should be tightened thoroughly. You also weld the end roller cover to the profile. This will allow the roller to act as an end stop in the case of manual gate operation. But in this case, fastening by welding will be much better than a bolt.
As for the support profile plug, it is installed on the inside of the gate and welded in place. It is necessary to prevent snow from rolling under the rollers.
Now the upper clamp is mounted to the rollers. Therefore, loosen the roller fasteners and install the brackets so that its side is directed towards the support post, and the rollers grip the top of the canvas. Taking this into account, press the bracket against the post and secure it.

At the next stage of work, the gate frame is covered. For this you can use profiled metal sheets. They must be cut to the size of the sash. Fastening is carried out with rivets or self-tapping screws. Each subsequent sheet is mounted with an overlap.

When the casing is completed, the lower/upper catcher can be installed. The lower catcher plays the role of reducing the load on the roller carts when closed. Therefore, they must be installed when the gate is loaded. Place the lower catcher under the end roller with the gate completely closed so that the supporting plane of the catcher is above the level of the end roller. As for installing the upper catcher, this process occurs in the same way.

Finally, all that remains is to install the automation. To do this, attach the rack, which means a universal part with an electric drive. It is usually included in the mounting kit.

The choice of automation directly depends on the weight of the gate:

For an opening of 4 m, a drive of 500–600 kg is used.
For an opening of 4–6 m, a drive is used – 600–1300 kg
For cases with intensive gate opening, a drive of 1200–1800 kg is used.

Coloring

All metal elements of the gate must be painted. Pre-degrease the surface. To do this, clean the surface and sand it with a sanding disc on a grinder. Wipe some areas, such as protected areas, with acetone. Now you can start priming. It is applied evenly. Moreover, the primer must be applied so that there are no drops or streaks. Thanks to such preparatory work, the paint will lie evenly. As a result, the entire gate structure will be completely protected from corrosion.

The paint should be applied in two layers and only after the first has completely dried.

To carry out all the work, you will need to have the following tool:

Inverter welding material. Such a unit will not damage the metal.
Bulgarian.
Air compressor for painting.
Pliers.
Drill.
Roulette.
Level.
Riveter.

If you do not have sufficient experience in performing such work, then there is a high risk of making some mistakes:

Insufficient foundation preparation.
Incorrect installation and fastening of all components.
Incorrect weight of the gate for the load-bearing beam.
If you hear a creaking sound, this is evidence of sand getting into the bearings.
Do not allow paint to drip.
Be sure to take into account the depth of soil freezing. Otherwise, the pillars may skew in one direction.

Video: making gates

Photo: options for finished sliding gates

Scheme

In the diagrams you can find many structural details for the manufacture of sliding gates:

Swing gates are good for everyone: simple and cheap. But in winter, with a large amount of snow, they can only be opened by thoroughly working with a shovel. When you need to go to work, this is not at all pleasing. Sliding or, as they say, sliding/sliding gates do not have this drawback. A solid structure covering the entire entrance moves to the side, hiding behind the fence. They can be supported on a regular or cantilever beam, or they can simply ride on rails. In any case, you can make sliding gates with your own hands. It's not entirely easy, but it's possible.

Constructions

Which ones are better

It’s hard to say which design is better. If we talk about reliability, then the best choice is a suspended structure. Everything is easy and reliable, an almost indestructible system. Gates of this type have been used in enterprises for decades. Their disadvantage is that the beam limits the height of incoming vehicles, which is sometimes important. But today there are models with composite beams, which allow you to remove the lintel above the entrance when the gate is open, and then return it to its place.

The cheapest and easiest to implement is a rail system. These sliding gates are the easiest to assemble with your own hands. But problems encountered during operation make it unpopular.

Of all the above structures, the most expensive and difficult to implement is the cantilever one, however, it is the one that is installed most often: if done correctly, it does not cause inconvenience during operation. When choosing, you need to keep in mind that when installing it on the right or left of the gate, a distance is required that is one and a half times greater than the width of the leaf: in addition to the leaf itself, there is also a technical part that protrudes from the side by about half the length.

The types of sliding gates, design features and construction are discussed in detail in the video.

How to make cantilever sliding gates

This design is good because there are no beams above the passage. But it is the most expensive in the device. The point is not so much in the roller system, but in the need to construct a foundation with metal mortgages, to which the cantilever beam will then be attached. If there are already pillars, the foundation is poured in front of it and along the fence to the length of the technical extension, which is necessary to compensate for the load created by the canvas.

Even if you make cantilever sliding gates yourself, a set consisting of a guide beam, rollers, end rollers and catchers is usually purchased from a company. All spare parts are calculated based on the size of the canvas, frame material and type of cladding: weight is essential. Therefore, it is advisable to decide on all these parameters in advance.

Knowing the length of the supporting beam, you can calculate the required size of the foundation. The type is a strip foundation; a foundation pit is dug below the freezing depth of the soil (it is different for each region), into which reinforced supports are laid under plates with rollers, and racks are also installed. A set of upper rollers is then attached to these posts, holding the canvas and preventing it from swinging.

How to calculate the foundation for mounting a cantilever beam

There is nothing complicated in the calculation. The length of the foundation is almost half the length of the span. If the span is 4 meters (the width of the passage or the distance between the pillars), then the foundation should be 1.8-2 m. Its width is 40-50 cm, its depth is below the freezing depth of the soil for the region.

The pit is dug another 10-15 cm deeper - under a gravel-sand cushion. This foundation is reinforced (according to the type), in its upper part a channel (18 or 20) is welded to the reinforcement and the whole thing is poured with concrete. The channel is set to the “zero” level, that is, it must be level with the ground level or the material with which the yard is finished.

There is a cheaper and faster option, but in terms of reliability it is inferior to the one described above. Three metal screw piles are screwed into the ground, and a channel is welded to them.

Installation of roller bearings

Studs are welded to the embedded channel, and platforms with rollers are then bolted to them. Sometimes you can find options when the platforms are welded directly to the mortgage. It is not right. There is a fairly high probability that the foundation or fence post will shrink. Even a slight shift and your gate will not work. If the rollers can be removed from the studs, the studs can be welded and everything can be put back in place, then how can you correct it if the platform is welded? Cutting down? Difficult, long, without guarantees. So in this case it is better to do everything according to the rules.

When purchasing, pay attention to the roller carriages and the rollers themselves. These are necessarily sealed rolling bearings. They are usually arranged in two rows of 4 pieces each. The lubricant in them must be frost-resistant - the lower temperature limit is -60°C. Inspect the platform on which they are mounted. It must be steel, cast, good metal with a galvanized surface, coated with a protective lubricant.

Roller skate. Everything should ride effortlessly and should not have any play (should not wobble from side to side). Then you can be sure that the gate will move easily and the sliding mechanism will work for a long time (some companies give a 10-year guarantee). After all, most of the load falls on the rollers, so their quality is key, as is the balanced design of the blade.

The remaining stages of installation will be more clearly described in the photo report: the gates were assembled independently, without the involvement of specialists.

DIY sliding gates: photo report with explanations

These gates are made on the basis of a ready-made kit; they made the frame themselves and installed it themselves

The gates were installed in Moscow, and accordingly the prices were in the capital. They were installed in 2010, since then the kits have become much cheaper. For example, the “fresh” price of a drive for a blade weighing no more than 400 kg (there are up to 1.2 tons) is about $100, but this is a budget option. During construction, components from Rolling Center (the best on the market at that time) were purchased with a 6-meter long drive beam. The upper catcher and bracket were also ordered separately. Everything with delivery cost about $600.

The following materials were also purchased:

profile pipe 80*60 mm - 6 m, 60*40 mm - 18 m, 40*20 mm - 36 m;
channel - 180 mm - 3 meters, 200 mm - 2.4 meters;
reinforcement 12 mm - 6 m;
electrodes - 2 kg;
paint - 3 cans, brushes, rivets;
cement M-400 - 5 bags;

The first step was to weld the frame for the gate with a counterweight. The frame (black) was made from a 60*40 mm profile pipe, the lintels and internal frame (lilac) were made from a 40*20 mm pipe. A guide beam is welded at the bottom with the cut down.

The inner frame was welded with an indentation from the edge - 20 mm on each side. This makes it more convenient to attach the corrugated sheet later; if desired, you can also sheathe it from the inside.

First the foundation was poured. Reinforcement was installed in it, with a channel on top with the back facing up. Close to the channel there are two racks made of profiled pipe 80*60 mm. One post is adjacent to the post, the second is set vertically at a distance of 120 cm. Rollers are then hung on them, which hold the canvas from above. On the other hand, a 180 mm channel was installed along the return post.

On the counter part, catchers are attached to the channel at the top and bottom, which will prevent the gate from dangling in the wind.

The next step is to install the roller plates. They are attached to mortgages. In this case it is a channel, so the space turned out to be large. When the foundation was made, it was made too high, so the plates were welded directly to the mortgage. This is impractical: if the roller breaks, changing it will be problematic. Usually a platform is welded, to which a platform with rollers is then bolted.

The roller platforms were welded and the rollers “ran over” them

The finished gate frame is simply rolled onto fixed rollers.

After installation, plugs are placed on both ends of the support beam. On the far side, a thrust wheel is installed, which in the closed position drives into the lower catcher, lifting the gate and removing the load from the rollers.

Now, to prevent the gate from “walking” in the upper part (they are currently not secured by anything), sets of upper rollers are attached to the posts (80*60 mm) - one per post. They are practically put on the frame. Now the rollers inside will hold it up.

That's it, the sliding gates are assembled with your own hands and ready for use.

What sliding gates look like from the yard

If you have any questions, watch the video. It assembles a ready-made kit, the whole process will become clearer.

Video

Several videos with different designs of sliding gates. The first is cantilever on the middle beam. There will be no problems with snow, but the appearance from the yard is below average.

Economy option: sliding gates for a summer residence. The design is extremely simple.

Another homemade option. Here the pipe is 60*60 mm, there is a gap cut into it, into which the rollers are inserted. The design is standard and assembled from various components.

If there is not enough space in front of the entrance, the optimal solution would be to install welded sliding gates. They do not require space to open the doors, like those, and in winter they do not have to swing a shovel, clearing snowdrifts. If desired, anyone who is familiar with welding can make sliding gates with their own hands.

Structurally, sliding gates are divided into cantilever, suspended, and rail types. The last option is the easiest to make. In this design, the sash with rollers attached to the bottom moves along a rail laid in the ground. Due to the fact that the rails have to be constantly cleared of snow, dirt, and foreign objects, they are rarely used.

In suspended structures, the canvas moves with the help of rollers along a beam installed at the top on supports on the sides of the gate. The system is reliable and durable, not requiring constant maintenance, but entering vehicles are limited in height. However, varieties with removable beams solve this problem.

Despite the complexity of manufacturing and higher cost, the design of welded sliding gates of the cantilever type is most often chosen. Their basis is a beam with an installed canvas, which slides along rollers located on the side of the opening. For installation on the opening side, a free space of 1.5 times the width of the sash is required.

We decide on the dimensions and design a drawing

To correctly draw up a drawing, you can use a ready-made diagram taken from the Internet. First you need to decide on the width of the opening, since the remaining dimensions depend on this. With a perpendicular entry, 2.5 - 3 m is enough for a passenger car. A truck or tractor will need at least 3.5 m. If entry is only possible at an angle, the width increases by one and a half times. According to safety conditions, the distance from the most protruding elements of the car to the support pillars is chosen to be at least 30 - 50 cm. The optimal opening width, sufficient for convenient passage of all types of transport, will be 4.5 m.

The width of the sash is made 20 cm larger than the size of the opening, so that when closing there are no gaps left on the sides. When installed, the lower edge of the sash is raised 10 cm from the ground. When drawing up drawings, it is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the support beam so that the height of the gate is level with the fence.

To prevent the sash from falling down when moving, a slope is welded to it, used as a counterweight. Its length is made equal to 0.5 of the width of the canvas. The entire load is carried by the support trolleys, so they are attached to a channel mounted on a solid concrete foundation. It is also used for installing an electric drive for remote gate opening.

Selecting materials and accessories

The fittings are difficult to make at home, so it is easier to buy them. The choice of components depends on the dimensions and weight of the gate. Manufacturers offer options designed for certain parameters:

weight no more than 400 kg, width up to 4 m;
weight up to 600 kg, size no more than 6 m;
weight over 600 kg, width over 6 m.

When installing sliding gates yourself, you will need to purchase:

lower guide beam;
supporting bracket, rubber rollers are installed on it;
a pair of support trolleys with platforms for them;
end roller;
lower and upper catchers;
plastic plugs.

The gate can be sheathed with corrugated sheets, sheet iron, clapboard, or polycarbonate. For a 4 m wide gate you will also need:

50×50 or 60×40 mm for frame assembly;
pipe 40×20 for assembling the frame for the sheathing;
20th channel 2 m long for mounting roller trolleys;
pieces of sheet iron for mortgages on brick or stone supports;
reinforcing bars with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm for installing a channel on the foundation;
when mixing concrete mortar yourself, you need to stock up on crushed stone, sand, and cement;
paint and primer for metal.

How to make sliding gates with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

To prevent the structure from turning out to be a propeller, welding of sliding gates must be done on a level area. Since you will have to do the work yourself step by step, you need to monitor the correct manufacturing and assembly of structural elements at every step.

Installing pillars

The supports are made of wood, channel, profile pipes, brick, stone. They are installed to a depth of at least a meter, but it is safer to equip a common foundation. Welding is used to install the catchers and support bracket, so sheet metal embeds are installed on stone and brick supports. Holes measuring at least 50x50 cm are dug under the pillars. After installation, verticality is checked and concrete is poured.

We install the foundation

A foundation pit 0.5 m wide and 30 cm longer than the counterweight is dug next to the fence. The bottom of the trench should be below the freezing point of the soil. Further:

rods are cut from reinforcement with a length equal to the depth of the pit and 20 cm each;
long rods are welded to the sides of the channel in increments of 50 cm;
opposing rods are welded in pairs at a distance of 0.7 - 0.8 m from the channel;
after installing the constructed structure in the pit, the channel is aligned horizontally so that its upper flange is flush with the driveway surface;
formwork and additional reinforcement on the sides are installed;
the trench is filled with concrete.

We weld the gate leaf

To weld gates from corrugated pipes, they are cut in accordance with the workpiece drawing. Then:

A lower pipe 50x50 mm is welded to the guide beam, and vertical posts are welded to it. Next, the upper cross member and counterweight are mounted.
The internal space of the frame is filled with frame elements made of 40×20 pipe for fastening the sheathing. To prevent overheating and deformation, they need to be welded in a checkerboard pattern.
Welding seams are cleaned with a grinder, the structure is coated with a primer and painted.

Installing gates

For ease of installation, a cord is stretched between the supports, at a distance from them equal to the thickness of the sash. The height above the passage is 15 - 20 cm. It will be used as a center line when installing support carts.

Assembly is carried out in the following order:

Places for roller carts on the channel are marked. To prevent the end roller on the guide from protruding into the passage, the first trolley is placed 15 cm from the edge of the opening. The rear one is located at a distance equal to the length of the frame (including the counterweight) minus 10 cm, measured from the receiving support.
After the platforms are tacked, roller carts are placed on them.
The sash is installed and its position relative to the pillars is checked. If everything is fine, the canvas and trolleys are removed.
The supporting platforms are scalded.
The trolleys and gate are installed, the gate is closed.
The level checks horizontality. If necessary, the position is corrected with adjusting bolts on the platforms.
The end roller is inserted into the end of the guide, secured with bolts, and tacked by welding.
A support bracket is welded onto the support next to the trolleys so that the upper edge of the sash is inside it. Rollers set the vertical position of the sash.
The lower catcher is put on the end roller, the gate is closed, and a place is marked on the receiving support. The fastening is done with bolts so that height adjustment is possible.
The upper catcher is installed in the same order, but is secured by welding.
The installation is completed with final adjustment of the rollers, catchers, and support bracket. The end of the guide is closed with a plug.

We trim and paint the gates

Sheathing made of sheet materials is secured with self-tapping screws or rivets. Holes are drilled under them, in the sliding gate frame elements. When covering with picket fences or clapboards, they must be treated with an antiseptic before painting. Forged elements are used alone or in combination with other materials.

Corrugated sheeting and polycarbonate are pre-selected by color. Sheet iron and forged parts are pre-degreased and coated with an anti-corrosion primer. Painting is done with alkyd enamel or acrylic paint in 2 - 3 layers. The work is performed with a spray gun, roller or brush.

What you need to automatically open sliding gates

To equip sliding gates with an automation system, you can buy a ready-made kit or purchase components separately. The set should consist of the following elements:

gear rack;
electric drive;
signal lamp;
photocells;
remote control;
control unit.

To install the drive, a channel is used on which support trolleys are mounted. Installation is carried out in the following order:

By attaching the rack to the lower frame tube and aligning it with the gear teeth, the location of the drive between the bogies is determined. If you need to lift it or install it next to the channel, a thick metal plate is welded to it.
The base of the drive is welded to the prepared place, and the device itself is attached to it.
After opening the gate and installing the rail, check the correctness of its position. In any extreme position there should be a margin of 10 cm. Then it is welded.
Limit switches and photocells are mounted on the rail.
A warning lamp is installed on the left support.

The elements are connected with cables in accordance with the instructions or diagram, and testing is carried out. If the gate weight is small, a screwdriver is suitable as a drive, and the control unit is replaced with a cheap car alarm system.

Since making sliding gates with your own hands is not easy, you should listen to the recommendations of professionals:

If you need to embed a gate into the gate, it must be mounted closer to the foundation with a channel to reduce the load on the rollers.
In order not to make a mistake in determining the width of the opening, you must first drive pegs into the places where the pillars are installed and try to drive through.
The seller may offer carts with plastic rollers. They make less noise than metal ones, but do not last long. Therefore, preference should be given to rolling bearings made of durable steel.
If the counterweight for welded sliding gates is made rectangular, its length can be reduced to 1/3 of the leaf width. This is true when there is not enough space to open.

Self-welded sliding gates will cost much less than those ordered from the company that produces them. At the same time, the quality of work depends only on yourself. The result is a reliable and easy-to-use design that provides comfortable travel using remote control.

Sliding gates not only provide entry and exit from the local area, but also distinguish the area from neighboring houses. Gates can indicate the tastes and financial situation of the owner, and can protect against unauthorized entry. At the same time, you can significantly save on installing sliding gates if you do the installation yourself.

Kinds

Based on the control principle, sliding gates can be suspended, cantilevered or moving on a rail. In addition, they are divided into single-leaf and double-leaf structures, the latter, by the way, are more expensive, since installation requires twice as much fittings. It should also be noted that sliding gates made of metal can be solid, also called “blind”, or lattice. Lattice products, in turn, are divided into products either mass produced or made to order - forged.

The suspension system is installed less often, and, as a rule, in industrial enterprises or commercial areas. The movement of the door leaf is carried out by the upper beam, which is somewhat reminiscent of a rail. The rollers are located directly on the metal beam.

The advantages of such a system can be considered ease of use, durability, and due to the fact that the entire process of operation of the mechanism is established in the upper part of the gate, the lower part remains free, respectively, There is no dependence on weather conditions.

Perhaps the main disadvantage of such a system can be considered the height limitation. If a heavy truck needs to enter a fenced area, with a high degree of probability it will not pass.

The situation can be corrected by raising the bar by 1.5 m, but this will require increasing the supports, and this will require large financial costs.

As such, there is no height limitation for sliding gates moving on a rail. The rail is mounted on a surface for which a concrete base is poured. A roller is welded to the canvas and slides along the rail.

Often this type of sliding gate is installed in the private sector. They are held open by a metal frame. In this case, the doors can be open or closed, and the territory of the site will not be visible through the blind panels.

The advantages of the rail system include the simplicity of the mechanism. By the way, some craftsmen even make the device with their own hands. Another plus is, of course, compactness. In the “wicket” mode, the door leaf can be moved a short distance necessary for a person to pass through, and thanks to the roller, the door does not sag. Therefore, such a system will not require frequent adjustments, unlike swing gates.

But since the rail is located on a concrete surface, precipitation can damage the mechanism and block its operation. Therefore, it is important to periodically remove debris and snow from the roller’s path. Keep in mind that experts recommend mounting the rail “flush” into a concrete foundation, this will minimize the damage caused by transport to the guide.

In cantilever gates, the rail holding the leaf is attached directly to the door leaf. It can be fixed at the bottom, top of the canvas, or in the middle - there is not much difference. The main thing is that the rail is of the required length, sufficient to hold the sash. Otherwise, you will need to install an additional electric drive on the opposite side, after which the double-leaf gates will open both left and right.

Since the guide beam is installed on the canvas, there is no dependence on the cleanliness of the foundation or the height. To balance the weight of the gate, it is necessary that the door leaf be one and a half to two times longer than the opening, otherwise the product will not work properly.

Keep in mind that the rail, or “channel” as it is also called, can be installed on both solid and lattice structures. In this case, you will need to pour a solid foundation so that the supports do not tear out from the weight of the gate.

Constructions

The hanging gate drive device is located in the upper part and the roller trolleys are also attached there. This is due to the design feature of this variety. It follows that if the mechanism needs to be repaired, certain difficulties may arise. In particular, to adjust four-meter sashes you will need an aerial platform. In most cases, for this reason, this type of sliding gate is not installed in the private sector.

Some manufacturers adjust the drives to human height, but, unfortunately, this only complicates the operation of the device, since additional installation of racks and pulleys is required. And any complication leads to frequent breakdowns.

Cantilever-type roll-out gates are most often equipped with a drive, a roller block and a guide at the bottom of the door leaf. Quite often installation is practiced in the middle and less often at the top. This depends on the length of the opening, the solidity of the supports and the strength of the foundation. The location of the drive can also be affected by the arrangement of the courtyard and the features of the metal frame.

Retractable rail gates are distinguished by the uniform distribution of the weight of the door leaf on the supports and on the foundation. Thanks to this, the load on the device is reduced to zero, which means the drive can be located in any part of the gate. Often it is placed either in the middle or at the top. A roller base and a guide rail are mounted at the bottom.

Separately, I would like to emphasize that The location of the drive will depend on the intensity of the load. If the canvas rarely opens, then it is necessary to install low-power devices for it, otherwise you will need to purchase powerful, and, accordingly, expensive products.

Advantages and disadvantages

First of all, I wanted to pay attention to the lower part. For example, with hanging gates you only need to ensure that the distance between the ground and the door leaf is clear. In this regard, the only obstacle may be suddenly falling snow, and only half a meter of snowdrifts can block the work.

The situation is different for caring for cantilever and rail types of gates, provided that the roller base is located in the lower part. In the first option, you will need to periodically clean the foundation from ice and snow, and in the second case, you will need to purchase special equipment.

Therefore, in regions where there is a large amount of precipitation in winter, experts do not recommend installing rail sliding gates.

But at the same time, sliding options that move along a rail require less maintenance of the drive and mechanisms in the winter season. In second place are sliding hanging gates, but most attention should be paid to the cantilever type, in which the moving device is located below. As for annual preventive measures, they are carried out the same way for all varieties - 2-3 times a year.

The rail system is the most expensive in terms of the cost of the product, installation and maintenance, followed by the suspension system in the improvised ranking, and the cheapest option is the cantilever gate. In the first five-year period, the console requires the least attention and material investments.

To summarize, we can state that often cantilever gates with the beam located at the bottom or in the middle are installed in the private sector. But keep in mind that suspended structures can last for several decades. Even today there are working examples installed 50-60 years ago.

Drawings and diagrams

As an example, we will consider the option of a console system with the drive located in the lower part. Depending on the location of the drive and the opening side, the sketches may differ slightly.

The gate leaf itself is attached to a metal frame, which is a frame made of either a metal profile or a steel pipe. A guide is welded to the metal frame. It is often presented as a rack, especially for electrically driven designs. A roller base is mounted inside the guide beam. As a rule, in a cantilever system, a roller base refers to carriages on wheels.

The guide, moving left and right, moves the gate leaf in the appropriate direction, thereby opening or closing the entrance. Since the entire gravity of the sash moves to the beam and the roller base, to minimize the load, an unloading roller and a catcher are mounted at the bottom of the leaf. Thanks to this, the cantilever gates do not sag when closed. In some products, the unloading roller and catcher are additionally installed on the opposite side, which ensures that the gate is kept open.

Fixation of the door leaf in the upper part is ensured by a catcher and a beam with carriages. To prevent dirt and dust from getting inside the structure, a side plug is used. Support pillars must be mounted from a solid reinforced concrete base, brick or metal pipe. Particular attention is paid to the foundation for the lower guide, otherwise the entire structure will collapse under its own weight. There is a high probability of damage to property, including that of others, and the risk of injury to people passing by.

The previously mentioned electric drive is easily mounted between the carriages, the rack is fixed directly to the gate leaf, and the control device, photo recorders and satellite navigation are located nearby.

Material calculation

If old structures are to be dismantled before installing sliding gates, close attention should be paid to the previously used support pillars. They can be made of metal profiles, bricks with embedded parts, or reinforced concrete. Remember that deflection of the supports is unacceptable - they must stand strictly vertical, otherwise the gate leaf will touch the foundation. If the pillars are askew, this only means one thing: they are not properly secured in the ground.

By the way, it is recommended to leave the distance between the foundation and the fence minimal, and it is best to arrange the foundation close to the supports.

If the support pillars meet the requirements, then you can save on this. If you plan to install from scratch, then two supports will be required. When choosing a reinforced concrete base, it is customary to erect a vertical with dimensions of 20x20 cm; for a base made of a profile pipe, a product with dimensions of 60x40 cm is suitable.

The dimensions of the door leaf may vary significantly. This will depend on the free space along the fence, the dimensions of personal vehicles and the size of the site. In most cases, the gate leaf measures 4400 cm in length and 2000 cm in height.

If heavy trucks periodically enter the site, then the height of the support, foundation and distance must be calculated based on this. Keep in mind, Even small trucks can destroy the foundation.

You should know that the size of the gate leaf is affected by the width of the roadway: The narrower it is, the wider the canvas should be. This makes it easier to enter and exit the territory.

Provided that you plan to move only passenger vehicles, you need to start only from the dimensions of the car. Let's say the width of the car is 2 meters. To this must be added the small distance required for unimpeded entry and exit: the distance must be at least a meter. The height of the sash on private plots rarely exceeds 2 meters.

Other sizes for trucks. It is important that there are no height restrictions, and that the passage width is 4.4-5 meters. It is useful to know that the height of SUVs rarely exceeds 1.5 m, while for the Gazelle it is 2.5 m. KAMAZ and its analogues are considered to be the largest in height: in this case, the upper height bar should be at least 3 m.

The maximum entry angle is usually 45 degrees. It follows from this that the distance between the support and the car should ideally not be less than 0.5 m. The length of the counterweight should be equal to 40-45% of the opening width. It is unacceptable for this figure to be less than 33%.

It is important to take into account that there should be no bushes or trees growing in the path of the roadway, and there should be no interfering buildings.

Accessories

If the structure has standard dimensions (4 meters wide and 2 meters high) and is sheathed with corrugated sheets, then you will need to buy fittings that can withstand the weight of the sheet equal to 400 kg. Accordingly, as the length of the canvas increases, reinforced fittings are selected.

In this case, either polymer or metal rollers are suitable. The length of the guide beam should be 6 m, and its cross-section should be 60x70 cm. Keep in mind that the thickness of the walls of the metal profile should not be less than 3.5-4 mm. The four-meter metal frame must be mounted with a small margin.

In order for the roller base to move smoothly along the guide, carriages are required. To fix the position of the valves in the open and closed positions, end rollers and catchers are mounted. As noted earlier, plugs are installed to prevent dust and debris from entering.

In most cases, this is the hardware that is used. Minor changes are made when using a roller or suspension system rather than a cantilever system. To minimize lateral swing, a plateau with rollers is attached in the upper part, and in the lower part, fixation and movement are carried out by a supporting trolley.

Manufacturing instructions

Based on practice, the easiest way to do it yourself is to install sliding gates that move on rollers along a rail. In this case, the installation can be made from scrap materials or using purchased fittings.

It should be noted that before starting work you will need a drawing of the future gate. It is important that the diagram is easy to read. All dimensions must be marked on it, including the supports and foundation, the necessary fittings used in the work, as well as details that will depend on the location of the sliding system. By the way, many consumers, not wanting to use mechanical opening methods, buy electric drives before installation - this should also be reflected in the sketch.

Keep in mind that homemade videos may differ slightly from each other, but even minimal deviations can disrupt the performance of the entire system. From this point of view, it is better not to save money and buy identical factory rollers in advance.

The gate can be built into the gate or exist separately from it. In the first case, older people and small children will have to periodically raise their legs. If you do this carelessly, you may even stumble and cause injury. If the gate is mounted separately, it must be installed on the opposite side from the opening of the doors so that the door leaf does not block the passage.

It is not advisable to completely abandon the gate, since any mechanism is designed to open a certain number of times. If you use sliding gates as a wicket quite often, the drive will fail.

Installation of sliding gates begins with preparing the base. But first things first. Step-by-step instructions will be provided below.

Preparatory work

It is very important that no bushes or trees grow along the route of the gate leaf. If any plantings are planted, they will either have to be replanted or uprooted.

Outbuildings, bathhouses and toilets that interfere with the opening of the door leaf will have to be dismantled. The earth will need to be removed from the slope so that the sash can move freely without touching the surface of the earth.

After the area is cleared, the foundation will be poured. For the first time, the tools you will need are shovels, a tape measure, a laser range finder and a garden drill.

If you have a motor drill at hand, then the work will be done faster.

When arranging the territory with hanging sliding gates, a foundation is not needed; it is enough to dig holes for supports when planning the installation of metal poles. To do this, mark the location of future holes on the ground using a tape measure or using a special tool. The distance between the supports must correspond to the previously specified dimensions.

As a rule, gates are installed last, which means that a fence has already been installed on the site. A metal fishing line is tied to the outer supports, and a metal chain with a weighting agent is suspended through it. It is used to set and check the evenness of the holes relative to the fence.

Unfortunately, the design features of the motor drill do not allow it to be extended, and in order to deepen the metal pipes into the ground, 1.5 meters will have to be dug. If heavy trucks periodically pass through the passage, the height of the supports can be increased. Thus, The metal will need to be buried in the ground in proportion to the protruding above-ground part.

In this case, it is easiest to dig using a garden auger, since it can be extended. After the fertile layer passes, either clay or rocky base will begin.

In the first case, you will need to fill with water. It will be easier for the drill to penetrate such soil, but pulling it to the surface will become more difficult. And in the second option you have to get rid of the stones. Particularly large specimens will need to be broken with a crowbar or reinforcement.

The diameter of future holes must correspond to the metal profile or steel pipe. The larger the diameter or size of the pipe, the larger the hole should be. But remember that this will require more cement-sand mixture and crushed stone.

The easiest way to check the height of the holes is either with a tape measure, its length should be 5-10 m, or with a special laser pointer. You will need to make from 2 to 4 such holes, depending on the presence or absence of a gate, as well as based on the functional features of the design.

If it is not possible to extend the garden drill or there are difficulties with deepening, then the metal support must be hammered in using a sledgehammer. Another option to get out of this situation is a hole drill. The drilling machine will make the required hole in a short time.

Metal posts must be anchored in the ground. But first, a “cushion” is placed on the bottom - a layer of crushed stone. In this case, the stone acts as drainage, because thanks to this approach the water will not stagnate and the pipe will not burst.

Some experts recommend painting metal pipes before lowering them into the hole, while others construct a special “glass” from plastic pipes. Such operations are justified provided that groundwater is located in relative proximity.

Brick and reinforced concrete supports must have mortgages, often three are enough. When placed above and below, it is enough to retreat 200-250 mm; the last mortgage is installed at an equidistant distance from the outer ones. Subsequently, some parts will be attached to them.

For mortgages, it is enough to take a steel sheet with dimensions of 100x100 mm; the thickness of the product should not be less than 5-6 mm.

The next stage involves using a concrete mixer to create a cement-sand concentrate. The proportions in which to dilute cement and sand are usually indicated on the bags. If this information is not available, then it is enough to add 6 kg of sand per 2 kg of cement. Additionally, 12 kg of filler and 2 liters of water are added.

The substance must be mixed thoroughly; no lumps should remain. If a concrete mixer is not available, then this procedure must be performed using an ordinary drill and a special attachment.

After this, concrete is poured into the holes. Remember, you need to ensure the evenness of the pillars. Drying is a long process. At high temperatures, complete drying is achieved within a week, and if cementation is carried out in the cold season, up to a month.

When installing rail sliding gates, the foundation must be poured between the span and along the fence to the size of the gate leaf. To begin with, a trench is dug close to the fence. Its dimensions should be 50 cm wide and 100 cm deep. The length of the trench will be equal to twice the length of the gate leaf.

If desired, you can make formwork. If it is for temporary use, then sheets of plywood, old boards and remnants of chipboard are used. If you plan to use it multiple times, you will have to purchase moisture-resistant, high-quality building materials.

The production of shields must be done on the ground, and after creating the formwork, it must be immersed in a trench. The boards are fastened using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver; it is permissible to use nails and a hammer. Pegs are driven into the ground, and a rope is stretched around the perimeter.

A small layer of crushed stone and a sand cushion are placed at the bottom of the trench; reinforcement will be required for good cement fixation. Experts recommend using reinforcement number 10. You can weld it yourself or buy a ready-made reinforcing mesh and tie it with soft wire.

For rail sliding gates, a guide rail will need to be laid on the metal frame. A channel can act as a rail. It is important to lay it upside down and parallel to the ground. Subsequently, the carriage will be attached to this guide.

As for the foundation for cantilever gates, it is built in relative proximity to the support pillar. The length of the structure will be half the width of the span, most often 2 m is enough. The depth will depend on the location of groundwater and the level of soil freezing. Don't forget about laying the channel.

When pouring concrete into the trench, be careful not to flood the channel. Keep in mind, The screed must be bayoneted at this moment, due to this excess air will be released. During the first days, the concrete base needs to be checked and wetted from time to time.

It is important that the concrete does not crack during the time allotted for drying, otherwise its strength will be minimal.

Unlike swing gates, which require two drives, when automating a sliding system, one motor is purchased. But it must be recalled that to facilitate the operation of the structure, it is permissible to use two leaves and it will be necessary to equip it with a second electric drive on the opposite side.

Automatic gates can be installed by purchasing a set of necessary parts and mechanisms in a specialized store, or, having certain skills and experience, you can make them yourself.

Automation allows you to open gates using a remote control without leaving your car or directly from your home. There are two types of remote controls: floating and fixed code.

In the first case, it is almost impossible for attackers to select a combination of numbers. For a fixed code, burglars can read the combination. There is also a high probability of accidental opening if the signal matches. In other words, if a person passing by pressed the car alarm button, or someone in a neighboring house turned on the chandelier with the remote control, then the code may match and the gate will open. Therefore, before purchasing an electrical system, you need to think carefully about which one is better to take, but saving in this matter is not advisable.

But still, the main part is the engine. It comes with a chain signal feed and a roller one. The engine must be selected taking into account the specifics of the site: if a three-phase meter is installed on the territory, then it is advisable to purchase a three-phase motor.

It is very important that its windings have a star connection. Thanks to this, it will be possible to eliminate a number of problems that arise during the operation of the drive. The device will operate at maximum power, and therefore with good efficiency.

An alternative can be a single-phase motor. It is important that it be of the capacitor type. Its main feature is considered to be low performance, including when starting the mechanism. The power of the unit should not be lower than 1-2.5 kW. It will depend on the weight of the gate leaf.

The rotation speed is from 500 to 1000 rpm. Low rates allow you to get rid of significant load, including on the base of the drive shaft.

When using single-stage gearboxes, a drive wheel will be required. It should not make more than 100 rotations per minute. It follows that the input torque must correspond to the engine rotation rate.

It is acceptable to use cheap analogs, but keep in mind that the kinematic circuit should not have bad connections. An alternative to the motor is a running motor from a washing machine. Such products are often thrown into a landfill, which means that the engine can be obtained completely free of charge.

Before connecting the motor, you will need to determine where the ends of the winding are located. A device called a multimeter will help with this. The starting type winding will have higher resistance values.

A rigid or semi-rigid type coupling is required to secure the gear shaft with the motor. In the first case, the body resembles a sleeve; the connection occurs through various holes and special grooves. In a semi-rigid coupling, the connection is provided by two flanges and rubber elements.

A belt-type transmission can serve as a replacement for the gearbox. The belt drive operates on bearings located on an independent shaft.

Keep in mind, the shaft must be aligned exactly in the center, otherwise the transmissions will not work properly. The belt drive is very difficult to assemble.

Installation

First of all, a metal frame is made, which should completely cover the opening. It is made from a profile pipe of the required cross-section, which depends on the weight of the future structure. In order to do this work yourself, you will need an angle grinder, which is popularly called a “grinder”, and a welding machine.

The metal frame can be equipped with a gate, but at the same time it is not forbidden to make it separately. Don't forget to install the lock. It is worth noting that a free-standing gate will require additional support.

Some people believe that it is correct to install automation at the time of installation of sliding gates, and not after some time, since some errors can be corrected on the spot.

If the electric motor is installed on an already operating gate, some elements will have to be dismantled, and this leads to additional costs.

When automation is made from improvised means, a bicycle sprocket is attached to the gear shaft. If such a part is not at hand, a sprocket from a motorcycle will do. Subsequently, a corresponding circuit is installed on this element. It is secured along the entire gate leaf strictly in a horizontal plane. When the sprocket rotates in one direction, the gate either opens or closes.

The engine is attached to a metal frame, which is made of steel. The frame must be installed on a dry foundation and firmly fixed. The stronger the connection, the longer the entire structure will last.

When choosing a gearbox, you need to pay attention to the height of rotation along the axis. In a gear wheel, tightening along the axis is carried out by shoulders. The height of the beads depends on the fixation of the wheel in the axial direction. Therefore, there is a high probability that the construction of a two-level base will be required in order to accommodate the gearbox with the motor.

Bolts and special nuts are used to connect the gearbox to the motor. The base underneath must be level and made of durable material. To make it easy to adjust the position of the engine, small holes are made under the support.

An additional guide is installed on the gate leaf, at a height of 50 cm to 80 cm from the base. A gear rack is attached to this beam. Its ends are protected with plugs, so dust and debris will not get inside. The guide must be properly welded to the gate.

To prevent the chain from stretching, the product is equipped with a special roller with a rigid spring. Some people install a part with eyes on the last link of the chain - this ensures that the chain is tightened at the moment of opening and closing.

Not only suspended gates are distinguished by the location of rollers in the upper part of the structure. Installing such elements at the top will also be necessary for rail gates. The upper roller secures the sash, allowing the door leaf to withstand wind loads.

Pressure rollers are attached to the bottom of the sash, after which they easily move on the rail. When purchasing a roller base, it is important to pay attention to steel products with sealed bearings. They must support the weight of the gate.

Also, do not forget about the response rollers, which are mounted on the opposite side.

It is important to check the operation of the structure before connecting the automation. When opening or closing the gate leaf, nothing should interfere, and the gate should not sag from its own weight. Do not forget about installing catchers that will allow the gate to close without changing the trajectory of movement.

Welding is used to connect automation elements, to fix the channel with the guide, as well as to install the rack with teeth. The drive mounted on the channel is secured with bolts. The holes on the channel must first be drilled. Simple metal drills are suitable for this.

Next we need to install limit switches. They can be magnetic or mechanical. The first option also works in bad weather. The magnet is mounted directly on the rack. In principle, the second option places the main emphasis on the spring.

All settings are carried out according to the instructions from the manufacturer. The design of sliding gates additionally includes not only an audible alarm, but also a signal lamp and several photocells.

Photo fixation allows the device not to close the gate leaf if there are foreign objects in the path of movement, including cars or animals. This is very important if there are small children in the family. Unfortunately, without photocells there is a high risk of injury.

The satellite system allows you to open sliding gates in advance; when approaching the house a few meters away, you can open not only the gate leaf, but also the rotary lifting mechanism in the garage. This saves a lot of time, since you don’t need to get out of the car.

Decor

Forged sliding gates are considered strong, durable and beautiful. They go well with brick or stone fences and supports, as well as with wooden inserts.

Moreover, they can be either open or closed. Metal patterns noticeably decorate the front side of the fence. They can be made according to special sketches, thereby emphasizing the individuality and tastes of the owner. But at the same time, expensive gates can attract intruders, since they clearly hint at the financial situation of the property owner.

In order to reduce the cost of the product, forged gates can be manufactured according to a standard drawing. Direct rental technology is often used here. There are no decorations or monograms provided, only classic design.

Since the gate is installed outdoors, it is very it is important that they are processed at the production stage. For this purpose, cold galvanizing is used. Welds are cleaned, primed and painted. Special enamel of any color is used as a paint coating.

Lovers of wooden structures attach treated wood to a metal frame. From the point of view of making the structure heavier, this is not entirely justified, since it can greatly affect the support pillars and other elements.

Sheets of corrugated sheets and Euro picket fences weigh less. They are attached to a metal frame using special hardware and a screwdriver. It is permissible to use a riveter. Rivets clamp metal sheets more efficiently than self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws can be twisted, but rivets can be difficult to remove.

Sandwich panels are widely used in the West. They are lightweight, easy to install and affordable. In stores you can find products in brown or white.

Don't forget about airbrushing. The drawing is made by a professional artist using special equipment. The cost of his work, of course, depends on the complexity of the drawing.

In order to save money, you can glue special typographic pictures. Volumetric 3D stickers highlight and, at the same time, disguise the gate.

In order for sliding gates to last as long as possible, you should only drive through the free span. It follows from this that there should not be any objects that interfere with the passage, including the entry of foreign elements into the structure.

It is important to pay attention to the sound that occurs when opening or closing the sash. This may indicate impending damage to the product, which means timely prevention and adjustment will be required.

Adjustment involves periodic lubrication of the moving mechanisms of the structure. In order to prevent rust from occurring on metal parts, it is necessary to treat them once every trimester with a special agent - WD-40 or, as it is popularly called, “Vedashka”.

The engine is lubricated and inspected every year. For this operation, it is advisable to call a specially trained person, otherwise responsibility for the result falls on the shoulders of the owner.

In the winter season, you will need to monitor the cleanliness of the rail and guides. Ice accumulation on the roller base and other parts that affect the operation of sliding gates is unacceptable. Bolts and screws need to be tightened periodically.

The cable system must be protected from precipitation. Do not forget to check its performance every 3-4 months so that sliding gates can be opened without electricity. Otherwise, you will not be able to enter the site during a power outage.

Many summer residents are faced with the question of how to make sliding gates from corrugated sheets or other material with their own hands quickly and efficiently. After all, decorating your estate with a reliable, beautiful fence means not only building a fence, but also installing a gate.

Great option for cramped areas

Sliding gates, in turn, should be easy to use and as functional as possible. They should have wide sashes and not require a lot of space. This design is nothing more than a modified span of a fence with rollers mounted on guides.

A number of criteria by which entrance gates are evaluated will help to evaluate the merits of a particular type of construction.

And although these criteria are very conditional, it makes sense to deeply evaluate all the indicators by which the assessment will be carried out. For analysis, you should pay attention to:

Design functionality.
The cost of materials and labor for their assembly and installation.
The weight of the structure, the ability to reduce weight without sacrificing strength.
Possibility to independently assemble and install all elements.

Frame installation

In addition, it is worth immediately defining the concepts. Since we are talking about sliding gates, there are three main structures here, conventionally combined into this concept:

suspended type - a structure whose operating pattern is based on movement along a guide installed on support pillars above the passage;
support type - the structure has a guide installed on the ground surface, and the sash or sash rolls along the guide on support rollers;
cantilever type, which uses a frame structure as a movable console on a guide. In this case, the gate itself does not touch the surface of the earth.

Opening

Advantages

The main advantage of this type of design is its functionality. The large door allows almost any vehicle to enter the yard; it does not take up much space. It can also be used as a gate in a country house or for a city estate.

The cost of materials for assembly is also low. Welding and installing a frame from a profile pipe and covering it with corrugated sheets does not cost much more than a section of a fence.

The profile pipe, corrugated sheet and locking device weigh much less than swing double-leaf structures made of sheet metal. This makes it possible to make the entrance much wider and larger.

The design is based on a frame reinforced with diagonal stops. Having at your disposal a small, flat area to work on and a welding machine, welding all the parts is not difficult. And in order to understand the algorithm of work, it is worth further studying the photos and videos that will be presented below.

Installation diagram

Flaws

Unfortunately, there are also disadvantages to the option where the gate must roll back. You can make sliding gates with your own hands only using welding skills. Without this, it is simply impossible to assemble the frame, foundation, install the guide rail and roller block.

It is also necessary to pay attention to the question of how to make rollers for sliding gates. You need to decide whether to make them yourself from scrap materials or order a ready-made kit for installation. The second option is much more practical and convenient both in terms of operation and adjustment.

Example for a private house

Types of structures

Considering that the cantilever design allows not only to make gates that are most suitable for installation and operation, but also to equip them with an automatic opening device, it is worth considering this particular model. True, it is necessary to mention the disadvantages of other designs in order to make sure that the choice is correct.

The hanging type allows you to make more than one sash panel, but equip it with two halves that will open in different directions. On the other hand, it is immediately worth considering that the entrance to the estate will be limited in height by the dimensions of the guide.

Constructive

In addition, it is worth remembering that you will still have to use support rollers and limiters for the normal functioning of the device. In snowy and long winters, the operation of the support rollers will be very problematic.

The same situation applies to supporting types of models: here you need to constantly monitor the condition of the guides, clean them from water, and clear them of ice and snow. Otherwise, movement along the guides will be impossible.

As for the cantilever design, even without the installation of electrical equipment, movement will be carried out normally, without jerks or failures, and most importantly, it will not be afraid of either snow or ice.

Speaking about models and designs, it is worth considering models that have a built-in gate. This solution is optimal from the point of view of convenience: a traditional gate in the form of an opening door, built into the frame frame, does not extend beyond the dimensions of the overall canvas, which has a positive effect on the performance of the system. Such options are clearly shown in the photos of the finished works.

The photo shows a beautiful gate.

For brick fencing

Choice

You can make the work of calculations and material selection easier by simply downloading drawings of standard solutions that are posted on the Internet. The next step will be the selection of material and assembly technology. Online calculators will also help you choose the right material.

The main material of the panel frame will be a profile pipe measuring 30x60 or 40x60 mm. The spacers inside the frame are made from a pipe of a smaller cross-section.

The main thing is that the width of the outer frame pipe is the same as the inside frame. For example, if the outer frame is made from a 30x60 mm profile, then the inner frame can be made from a 25x60 or even 20x60 mm profile.

Frame structure

For the most important element of the frame - the support beam, or mortgage - a channel is selected. It is worth noting that it is better to discard the advice to weld a support beam from two corners or two pipes with a cross-section of 80x80 mm. Only a channel, albeit bulky, albeit inconvenient, but it is the one that will work, and it is better to use pipes and angles on guides and support posts.

Structural diagram

The assembly of the frame begins with a guide rail, it is reinforced with a frame pipe and tacked with spot welds in several places. It is not worth making a straight seam from start to finish: during welding, the metal is deformed, and therefore the guide rail too.

The procedure for welding the frame:

The frame pipe is welded to the guide rail.
The vertical outermost post of the sliding structure is installed and fixed.
Vertical intermediate posts and a cantilever element post are installed.
The upper horizontal part is welded.
A cantilever diagonal is installed.
Frames to strengthen the internal frame are inserted.
The seams are cleaned, the frame is primed and painted.

Deciding how to make a sliding gate - with posts already installed or installing them during the construction process - is quite obvious. Of course, it is better to install the pillars in a complex: this way you can avoid mistakes and save time.

The assembly diagram is shown below.

Detailing

Foundation structure

The foundation for sliding gates has a complex shape. As a result, before you start excavating, you must first draw on a piece of paper what the underground part will actually look like.

The foundation is torn off along the entire length of the mortgage strip and the depth of the columns. In the places of jumpers between the columns, the depth should be at least 70 cm, and the columns should be 15–20 cm deeper than the freezing point. At the same time, the foundation under the support column is also torn off.