Some fruit trees have the peculiarity of sprouting shoots. This brings many problems and is dangerous for the farm itself because it harms the harvest. Shoots that sprout from the main root cause harm to the tree, as they feed on its beneficial substances. As a result, the mother plant gradually dies.
On what trees does it occur?
The most susceptible to this phenomenon are plants that are weakened under the influence of certain factors (temperature changes, human factor) or simply die off from old age. It is also not uncommon for lilac shoots to appear. In order to get rid of it forever, you need to dig out all the roots as carefully as possible. After this, you can start planting other plants.
Reasons for appearance
The appearance of root shoots means that the tree is not in the best condition. To protect yourself from the appearance of new shoots, it is necessary to identify the cause of their occurrence. Let's look at the most common reasons for the appearance of growths.
Errors during landing
Exposed roots due to high planting. According to the rules, the grafting site must be located at a depth of 10 cm under the soil. 
Otherwise, it gains access to sunlight, which gives a signal to the rootstock about the possibility of forming its own crown. To correct this problem, the roots should be covered with a layer of soil.
Damage to bark and branches
They overdid the branches during regrafting.
This creates an imbalance in the tree's supply of nutrients, which results in a limited amount of assimilation products for the root system. When rejuvenating, be careful not to remove too many branches.Mechanical damage also affects the appearance of growth. The resulting wounds should be cleaned and treated with varnish in a timely manner. Often gardeners simply forget to remove the grafting straps. This is a fairly common mistake that gradually damages the bark as the plant grows. 
Thus, the root system is not able to receive full nutrition and therefore sprouts. Damage to trees during frosts. They are quite difficult to notice.
Only in the 2-3rd year can one observe cracking and splitting of the bark, damage by various diseases. The tree begins to dry out, which causes the roots to send out new shoots.
Scion and rootstock
Incompatibility of rootstock and scion. There are some disturbances in nutrient metabolism. It is quite difficult to identify such a problem right away; it may take more than a year.
This error entails weak growth, yellowing of leaves ahead of time, decreased ability to withstand frost, and thickening of the scion. All this gradually leads to the death of the plant. 
Removing overgrowth
Every year, summer residents and gardeners have to deal with shoots. It is not enough to simply remove a sprouted shoot, since its roots still remain in the ground, which take up nutrients and produce new offspring.
In order to get rid of cherry growths and forget about this problem forever, it is necessary to take preventive actions.
The formation of new shoots occurs when the tree is exposed to some kind of threat. This is how the plant wants to continue the existence of its species. To reduce the abundance of growth, you should follow some tree care tips:
- use a rake instead of ;
- reduce water pressure during time;
- After removing excess branches, treat the log site with a special solution or preparations.
Did you know? Before breakfast, Queen Elizabeth II always eats two plums that grow in her garden and are proudly called Brompcon.
There are two methods of getting rid of overgrowth: mechanically and using. Let's look at each of them in more detail. 
Mechanical method
The most suitable solution for how to get rid of growth, for example, cherries on a plot, is the manual method. However, its implementation requires caution and the right actions:
- Shoots should be removed at the first symptoms of their appearance, so that they do not have time to grow stronger and gain strength.
- Regular cutting will not be enough. The root will still remain, allowing new shoots to emerge.
- The shoots must be cut off as close to the base as possible. To do this, small holes are dug next to the tree and the shoots are removed. If the sprouts have not yet gained enough strength, then they can simply be pulled out of the ground. In order not to provoke the appearance of new shoots, under no circumstances leave stumps behind after removing them.
- After disposing of the “undesirable shoots,” a garden varnish should be applied to the log site, which will protect the tree and prevent the formation of new shoots.
Using the following method allows you not only to remove unwanted vegetation, but also to prevent its occurrence. To do this, take slate and dig it into the ground to a depth of half a meter. Another way is to plant a shady tree (maple) nearby. Important! To be more effective, you can use boiling water to scald the ground around and the stump itself. Do not add salt to the water under any circumstances, as this may disrupt the chemical composition of the soil.
As a result, the tree will stop sprouting and will save you from unnecessary worries.
Herbicide use
A more severe and dangerous method of getting rid of growth is the use of herbicides. But you should be very careful, since you can not only remove the growth, but also harm the tree itself. 
The principle of action of such drugs is aimed directly at combating escapes. The substances act only on unwanted shoots, without harming the plant.
After their action, the substances disintegrate in the soil and do not have a harmful effect on the environment. This method can be used to remove growth even on trees such as cherry and plum.
There is a different preparation for each type of unwanted vegetation. The best way to remove sprouts is to use 2,4-D amine salt. Its solution should be applied to the leaves.Emulsifying butyl ether works well against woody growth. To stop the sprouting of cereals, they use simazine, which exerts its effect through the roots. For one hectare of area you will need approximately 2-5 kg of such substances. 
To protect the stump from the effects of shoots on it, there is a very simple way. For this you only need one element. The surface of the stump is covered with a 3-centimeter layer of salt, which must be covered to protect it from external weather factors.
The salt is gradually absorbed, so it should be added occasionally. This method is harmless to the stump; it only affects the appearance of new shoots.
The use of herbicides is completely safe for humans. However, do not forget about safety rules while performing work. You can also take help from specialists.
Should I delete it?
Quite often the shoots are used for propagation. This is due to low labor and time costs. If you don’t bother yourself with special care for your garden, then after 2-3 years you can see the appearance of small trees. Crops such as cherries and plums are capable of forming fairly strong shoots. 
It is worth noting that the use of such shoots is advisable only from own-rooted varieties. The fact is that such trees differ from grafted ones. If a plum or cherry has been grafted previously, then their shoots will have other external characteristics: color, size of leaves and buds.
Did you know? Several crops can be planted in one bed; they will protect each other from pests.
It’s a completely different matter with native shoots, which retain all external similarities with the mother tree.
Before taking a seedling, make sure that the plant is completely healthy and bears fruit well.
Digging of seedlings occurs in September or early spring. 
Two-year-old plants whose root system has already become stronger are ideal for this role. They usually grow at a distance of 2-3 meters from the tree. You should dig carefully so as not to damage the roots.
Using shoots for propagation may seem like a good and economical option. But that's not true. Often trees that are grown with the help of such shoots do not have such a bountiful harvest.
Intentional cultivation of shoots harms the mother tree, it begins to weaken, and the amount of harvest decreases. After all, the formation of shoots already indicates the poor condition of the tree. Therefore, it is better to get rid of the appearance of overgrowth.
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If you have a plot of land with an old, overgrown cherry orchard, the first thing you will need to do is figure out how to get rid of the cherry overgrowth. Dealing with it is not so easy, and you may have to spend a lot of effort and nerves to deal with the numerous shoots that sprout every now and then next to the main tree.
Is it possible to prevent the appearance of cherry blossoms?
A novice gardener may have a natural question: is it necessary to look for ways to destroy cherry trees? Isn't it easier to leave it alone - let new cherry trees grow that will bear even more fruit!
Caring for overgrown cherry trees is much more difficult
The main harm is that the cherry shoots take nutrients from the soil for their growth, which is why the yield on the main tree is significantly reduced, or even completely lost. You should not place high hopes on the rapid fruiting of new cherry bushes, since grafted cherries produce wild shoots that do not bear fruit. In addition, caring for overgrown cherry trees is much more difficult.
Video about how to rid an old tree of root shoots
First of all, be careful when choosing seedlings: having planted tree- or bush-type cherries on your plot, you will not subsequently rack your brains about how to deal with cherry growth. Another thing is planting coppice cherries, which after fifteen years, due to their nature, begin to form shoots, especially for self-rooted plants.
When purchasing coppice-type cherries, keep in mind:
- self-rooted seedlings (Apukhtinskaya, Vladimirskaya, Krasnopakharskaya, Shubinka) although they form a lot of shoots, their offspring retain all the properties of the variety and are quite suitable for replacing old cherries;
- varietal cherries (Rastorguevskaya, Malinovka, Molodezhnaya, Pamyat Enikeeva) on clonal rootstocks can, to a greater or lesser extent, form shoots of wild rootstock, which will need to be regularly removed;
- varietal cherries on seed rootstocks (from Shubinka and Vladimir cherry seedlings) do not produce root shoots.
Be careful when choosing seedlings: having planted tree- or bush-type cherries on your plot, you will not subsequently rack your brains about how to deal with cherry growth
Be sure to check with the seller whether the cherry seedlings are rooted or grafted? And, if you don’t want to think about the problem of how to get rid of cherry shoots in a few years, give preference to seedlings on seed rootstocks.
But what to do with old cherries that have just begun to sprout? It has been noted that the number of shoots in the same plant can increase with shallow watering, with branches freezing, cherry trees being affected by diseases, and also as a result of mechanical damage to the root system and crown of the tree. To reduce the formation of cherry blossoms, do not forget about sanitary pruning of damaged branches and prevent the spread of pests and diseases. Instead of loosening the soil under the cherry tree, use mulching. It is better to water the plant rarely, but abundantly.
One of the reasons may be simple heat, from which the soil under the tree cracks, and as a result of damage to the roots, young shoots begin to grow from them. In this case, covering the ground under the cherry tree with hay or straw will help.
The experience of experienced gardeners on how to remove cherry shoots
The question of how to remove cherry shoots from your plot remains relevant for many gardeners from year to year. After all, it is impossible to completely get rid of sprouting new shoots - so you have to either tinker with cutting down the shoots every year, or experiment with new ways of removing shoots at your own peril and risk.
It is impossible to completely get rid of sprouting new shoots
The most popular and effective method of destroying cherry shoots, at least for a short time, is considered to be regular control of emerging cherry shoots with an ax and shovel. Moreover, this work must be done correctly:
- shoots are removed immediately as they appear, leaving them no opportunity to gain strength;
- cutting off the above-ground part of the shoot with pruning shears is not enough - stumps with buds will remain in the ground, from which even more powerful offspring will then grow;
- in early spring or late autumn, shoots of the shoots are dug up to the place where they extend from the horizontal root of the cherry tree and chopped off with an ax, leaving no stumps;
- the place of the log house is covered with garden varnish so that nothing else can grow from it;
- the dug holes are again covered with earth.
Herbicides should be used with great caution to destroy shoots, since you can accidentally harm the mother tree
Additionally, it is recommended to remove fallen berries from under the cherries so that wild bushes do not grow from their seeds. You can limit the germination of shoots by using sheets of slate or thick cardboard, burying them half a meter into the ground under the cherry tree. Planting a shady tree nearby (linden, maple, chestnut) also slows down the development of cherry shoots.
Herbicides should be used with great caution to destroy shoots, since you can accidentally harm the mother tree. In addition, it is not always possible to achieve the desired effect - there is a possibility that in the place of one shoot killed by poison, two new ones will grow.
Video about how to deal with unwanted growth
A radical method of destroying cherry trees (along with old trees) is deep digging of the area with an excavator or tractor. But this option is not suitable for every site, and it cannot be called cheap.
Unfortunately, a 100% effective way to remove cherry growth once and for all has not yet been invented. Therefore, the choice is yours - to constantly fight with growing shoots or to completely get rid of the old cherry tree along with all the shoots and plant new varieties that do not produce shoots.
GOLDEN RULES OF GROWING ROSES Save so as not to lose! Choosing a healthy seedling As a rule, seedlings are sold with an open root system, closed and seedlings in containers. The advantage of purchasing bare-root bushes is that you have the opportunity to examine the development of the root system. Seedlings of the highest category have at least three stems, medium - at least two. Pay attention to the leaves and shoots; they may show signs of disease. The root system should be well developed (the diameter of the root collar is about 8–10 mm). Carefully scratch one of the roots with your fingernail: the roots should be elastic and white. Roses with bare roots can only be purchased during the main planting period, since even short-term storage can lead to drying out of the root system. Capped-root seedlings are a more reliable option. Their advantage is the protection of the root system from various damages during transportation. You can buy seedlings in containers. However, check the strength of the plant in advance and make sure that it was not transplanted shortly before the time of sale. The advantage of container seedlings is a visual assessment of the color and structure of the flower. Choosing a place to plant roses Favorable place: a well-lit part of the garden. The sun should illuminate the roses in the morning, while during the day a light shade is needed to shelter them from the hot afternoon rays. It is also important to know that varieties of dark shades cannot be planted in direct sunlight - it is better to plant roses of light colors in this place. An unfavorable place for roses: the northern part of the garden, blown by the winds, as well as under trees, close to the walls of buildings and fences. In addition, new young roses should not be placed next to old ones. If the bush is in constant shade, this leads to intensive vertical growth and further depletion of the plant. The cold wind dehydrates the leaves and shakes the bush; the solution is to install a hedge; it should be done so as not to shade the roses. Favorable soil for roses. Light loamy soils, rich in humus, easily permeable to air and moisture. These are ideal soils, but are rare. Less favorable soils for roses are light sandy and sandy loam soils; in winter they often freeze, and in summer they overheat, and nutrients are washed out of them more quickly. To enrich the soil, rotted manure, turf soil, peat and lime are added. Heavy clay soils, where moisture is retained for a long time, also require improvement. Such soils should be drained and sand, humus, compost, and peat should be added. With a lack of oxygen, respiration and root growth deteriorate, and excess moisture slows down the development of the root system and leads to the death of the plant. Soil that is unfavorable for roses is waterlogged, swampy, and with a high groundwater level. Excessive moisture in the area will destroy the bush. Groundwater should not be higher than 1.5 meters. The soil for roses is preferably slightly acidic, pH (an indicator of the soil acidity level) is 6.0–6.5. At a pH of about 7, the soil is considered neutral, at a pH below 7 - acidic, and with a pH above 7 - alkaline. To increase acidity, peat and manure are added to the soil, and to get rid of toxins, ash, lime or dolomite flour are added. Swampy, saline and rocky soils should be avoided. In areas with cold climates and short summers, roses need alkaline soil. It is not recommended to root seedlings in places where rose bushes previously grew. Due to depletion, the soil here can be infected with pests and pathogens. If there is no other option, remove the soil in a layer of 70 cm and fill in a new one. Time for planting roses Roses are planted before the buds open, as soon as the soil warms up to about +10 ° C (in the south - in April, in the middle zone - in late April - early May). During spring planting, their roots are shortened to 30 cm. If the plant was purchased with already cut roots, the cuts need to be renewed. For park, climbing, and semi-climbing roses, the roots are slightly shortened and weak or damaged shoot tips are removed. For ground cover roses, only root sections are renewed. The shoots of tall roses are shortened by 10–15 cm, and of climbing roses by up to 35 cm. Immediately after planting, you need to shorten their branches above the sixth bud, and the stem shoots above the third. Floribunda roses leave 3–4 buds, while hybrid tea roses leave 2–3. Roses planted in spring require a lot of attention: it is necessary to constantly monitor soil moisture and carefully shade the seedlings from the sun. Spring planting is not recommended if the soil is wet and heavy: during planting it becomes even more compact and difficult to loosen. It is strongly recommended to plant standard roses in the spring, since flowers of this particular variety can hardly tolerate autumn planting. Spring is the optimal period for planting roses in mountainous areas. In autumn, roses are planted from the first ten days of September until mid-October - so that the shoots have time to take root before frost. If a rose with an open root system is being planted, then planting such a seedling earlier is undesirable: the plant will begin to spend too much energy on the growth of young shoots and buds, and as a result will weaken and may not withstand the winter cold. And if roses are planted later, say, at the end of October, they may not have time to take root, will not survive the winter well, and may even die. When planting in autumn, only damaged branches and the ends of broken shoots are cut off. You can also eliminate unripe shoots, leaving only 3–5 of the strongest ones. It is better to postpone pruning shoots with several eyes until spring. Roses planted in autumn are pruned for the first time the following spring, lubricating the pruning areas with garden varnish. Roses can also be planted in summer, but in this case the seedlings must have a closed root system. Roses grown in containers can be planted throughout the season. If the plants were purchased in the fall, but frost hit, it is no longer advisable to plant them; it is better to bury them in a shady place until spring, lowering them at an angle into the ground 10 cm below the budding site. Be sure to moisten dry roots by placing the seedling in a bucket of water for two hours. When digging, the bushes are watered abundantly, covered with earth, lightly trampled and wrapped. How to prepare roses for planting The day before planting, roses are placed in water for 10 hours. Before planting, the roots are shortened to 20 cm, and damaged ones are cut back to healthy tissue. Remove all dried branches and trim the remaining ones. In this case, five buds are left on strong shoots, three on less strong shoots, and weak shoots are cut off, leaving no more than 3 mm at their base. Depending on the variety, during spring planting the shoots are pruned as follows: for hybrid teas - up to 10–15 cm, for floribundas - up to 20 cm, for park ones - only the tops. In climbing roses, they try to preserve the lashes. Miniature, ground cover, bush plants do not need pruning. For better survival, the roots should be moistened in a solution of clay and mullein (3:1), adding one tablet of heteroauxin, previously dissolved in water, to one bucket of solution. When planting in autumn, the seedlings are not pruned, only the dried tops of the shoots are removed to healthy wood, the roots are trimmed to 20–25 cm. Subtleties of planting and preparing roses A rose seedling is lowered into the hole and the roots are straightened. Consider the correct planting depth for grafted roses. The grafting site (the thickening between the roots and branches) should be 2–3 cm below ground level. It is important that the soil fits tightly to the roots. The seedling is watered abundantly, and when the water is absorbed, the position of the grafting site is checked. If the ground has settled, the seedling is raised a little and soil is added. Then they hill it up to 20–25 cm and shade it for 10–12 days. After planting, monitor the soil moisture. In dry weather, roses are watered every 4–5 days. If the soil on the site does not meet the necessary requirements for planting roses and you need to use a potting mixture, then the planting technique is slightly different. The mixture is poured into a mound at the bottom of the hole, and a layer of fertile soil without fertilizers is sprinkled on top to protect the roots from burns. They put up a bush, cover it again with soil without fertilizers and compact it. Otherwise there are no differences. Make a hole around the planted bush and, watering, fill it to the brim with water three times. After moisture is absorbed, the hole is covered with earth. Then the seedlings are hilled up so that all shoots to a height of 20 cm are closed - this protects them from drying out. After the sprouts reach 2–5 cm, the roses are unplanted, and the soil around is sprinkled (mulched) with humus, compost, straw or peat in a layer of 4–6 cm. Climbing roses should be planted so that the grafting site is 8–10 cm lower surface level, which promotes the development of grafted shoots. After planting, roses should also be hilled. If a climbing rose grows near the wall of a house, then the distance from the wall should be at least 50 cm. The plant is planted at an angle to the wall. It is recommended to plant a standard rose by attaching its trunk to a support, otherwise it will not withstand its own weight. The support is installed in the hole before the plant is placed there. The support must be strong and reach the crown to protect the plant from strong winds. The rose is attached to the support at the level of the crown firmly and so that the tie cannot slide down the trunk and support. The process of planting roses Preparing the soil for planting roses At the place where you plan to plant a rose, you should remove weeds, dig up and fertilize the soil, and prepare planting holes. The soil where the rose will grow must be dug to a depth of 40–50 cm and large doses of organic fertilizers must be added at the rate of 1.5–2 kg of manure and compost for each bush. Complete mineral fertilizer is also applied. Adding stove ash is also useful. A hole for the rose is dug wide and deep (60x50 cm), so that after planting the budding site of the seedling is 5 cm below ground level. For spring planting, it is better to prepare planting holes in the fall, for autumn planting - in the spring. If this does not work out, the pits must be prepared at least two to three weeks before planting. Fertilizers and fertilizing are required. Sand is added to heavy clay soils and dug up, and humus is added to sandy soils. 10 days before planting, dig holes 50 cm deep for self-rooted roses and 70 cm deep for grafted ones, and fill them with water. After the water is absorbed, about three shovels of humus mixed with soil are placed in the planting hole. A week after these soil procedures, the seedlings can be planted. 10–12 days after the autumn planting, the plant forms small young roots, which harden before frost and overwinter well in an air-dry shelter. In spring, such roses develop simultaneously both root and above-ground parts, and a strong bush quickly forms. They bloom at the same time as the old ones. Hilling up roses Regardless of what time of year the bush is planted, immediately after planting its above-ground part is earthed up, leaving only the upper part of the shoots uncovered. This stimulates the rooting of the young seedling, protects it from frost during autumn planting, and from the hot sun during spring planting. If plants are planted in the spring, they are unplanted when young shoots begin to grow; if in the fall, then only after winter, when it gets warmer. It is better to do this in cloudy or rainy weather, or in the evening. Optimal distances between roses When planting a large number of roses, the optimal distance between them largely depends on the size of the bush and its purpose. Between miniature roses the average distance is 35–50 cm, between roses of the grandiflora, floribunda and hybrid tea groups - 60 cm, between climbing and park roses - from 60 cm to 1 m, between semi-climbing roses - 1–1.2 m. If a living one is created hedges, roses need to be planted close (approximately the distance between them is 40–50 cm), and one climbing plant is planted to cover the gazebo and create an arch. Climbing varieties are best planted at a distance of 1–2 m near supports and arches. It is not recommended to plant roses too densely: they will begin to get sick, bloom poorly and lose foliage. In addition, dense plantings make it difficult to care for plants, especially pruning and loosening. Rarely planting roses is also undesirable: in summer the soil around the bushes gets very warm and dries out. Pruning roses You need to prune roses every year in the spring, a couple of weeks after the insulation has been removed; the leaves have not yet blossomed, but the buds have already swelled. Spring pruning of roses is called molding. It is done by removing the cover from the plants, approximately in mid-to-late March. Pruning should only be done with a sharp garden knife or pruning shears. The cut should be 5 mm above the bud with a slight slope away from it. The shoots are pruned to healthy wood, to a bud located on the outside of the shoot. You need to cut off old, diseased, dry and weak shoots. For miniature roses, not only do they cut off the old branches, but also shorten all the shoots by half. In large and multi-flowered plants, weak shoots are cut off above the fifth or sixth bud, leaving the rest longer. In climbers, only a few of the strongest shoots are left. For standard roses grafted onto tall trunks, all shoots are pruned, leaving lashes about 20 cm long. Roses that bloom once are not pruned. In floribunda roses, cut off the inflorescences to the first shoot or to a bud oriented outward. Hybrid tea rose flowers are removed with two leaves. Ground cover varieties of roses and rose hips need only be pruned to give them a beautiful appearance. In order for the flowers of these roses to be large, it is necessary to remove part of the ovaries. Good and bad neighbors of roses Roses are like people - they feel good with some plants, but not so much with others... The queen of flowers feels great next to clematis, worthy companions are also marigolds, calendula, foxgloves, crocuses, hosta, aquilegia , gladiolus, petunia. It would be very nice if edible or decorative garlic or lavender grew next to the rose. Their essential oils contain biologically active substances - phytoncides, which protect rose bushes from pests and diseases. Poppy, lavender, narcissus, white wormwood, phlox, and astilbe will not interfere with roses. Tulips, lilies, daylilies, delphiniums, primroses and ferns will be neutral for her. But next to heucheras, sedums, saxifrage, aster, iris, peony, pansies, sweet peas, Turkish cloves, and cereals, the rose feels very bad - they oppress it. Propagation of roses Roses for the garden can be propagated by grafting (this is the method mainly practiced in Ukraine), as well as by layering, suckers, division, and cuttings. Roses are also grafted. We will describe other methods. Graft. Roses are grafted (by cutting or eye) onto rootstocks, which are grown from cuttings or rosehip seeds. The rootstock must have a powerful, well-branched root system, not produce wild growth, be frost-, drought- and moisture-resistant, durable and compatible with the scion. The main method of budding is through a T-shaped incision. It is better to do this vaccination in mid-July. First, the root collar of the rootstock is freed from the soil and thoroughly wiped with a piece of cloth. Then a T-shaped cut is made on the root collar of the rootstock. The vertical line should be about 2.5 cm, the horizontal line should be about 1 cm. The bark is moved apart so that it is easy to insert the shield with the kidney. The next step: from cuttings cut from the middle part of mature shoots, from the bottom up we cut off a shield (a piece of bark with a dormant bud) with a small layer of wood, which we immediately remove. We insert the shield with the kidney into the T-shaped incision. We cut off the upper, protruding part of the shield at the level of the horizontal cut. After this, we wrap the grafting site tightly with budding film. After three weeks, we check the kidney for survival. If it does not turn black, but remains green and slightly swollen, the budding went well. Before the onset of cold weather, the grafted plants must be covered with earth approximately 7 cm above the budding, and in early spring they must be planted slightly below the grafting site. The upper part of the rootstock, departing about 1 cm from the graft, is cut into a spike and the budding film is removed. After a couple of weeks, the bud begins to actively develop and a shoot appears. To form a bush, we pinch the shoots above the third or fourth leaf. Almost all types of roses are propagated by layering, but this method is best suited for ground cover and climbing roses. In spring, a one-year-old stem is bent from the bush. In the part that will be in the ground, make a small cut in the bark directly at the eye, which will stimulate root formation. Then the stem is bent to the ground, placed in a groove 10 cm deep, pinned, covered with fertile soil and watered regularly. The upper part of the stem with two or three buds should be above the ground in a vertical position. To stimulate tillering, the stem is pinched during growth. Next spring, the cuttings can be separated from the mother bush and replanted. Offspring. This is how park own-rooted roses are usually propagated, which are capable of producing root suckers that form during a period of intensive growth and extend from the main bush in the form of vertical shoots. In the spring, after the soil has thawed, they are dug up, processed and planted in another place. Dividing the bush is the optimal way to propagate mainly climbing, park and miniature roses. In early spring, when the buds have not yet begun to grow, the bush is dug up and divided into parts. The root system must be preserved on each part. Then the plants are planted in a permanent place. Cuttings are the simplest and most accessible method of propagation. Well suited for climbing, miniature, groundcover, scrub, grandiflora, and some hybrid tea roses. There are several types of cuttings: green cuttings, lignified and root cuttings. Green cuttings are also called summer cuttings. Roses are propagated during the budding period. Well-developed, but not too thick annual shoots from flowering, semi-lignified shoots during the flowering period are suitable. Using a sharp knife, cuttings 5–8 cm long, with two or three buds, are cut from them. The bottom leaf is removed and an oblique cut is made under its bud at a distance of 1.5–2 mm. The upper cut is made 1 cm above the bud. Next, the cuttings are treated with any fungicide to prevent fungal diseases, and then with a substance that stimulates root formation. You can root cuttings in greenhouses or indoors in pots under glass jars or glasses. The prepared substrate is treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The cuttings are planted at an angle to a depth of 1.5–2 cm at a distance of 3–6 cm from each other, and the rows are planted at 8–10 cm. The optimal air temperature for successful rooting is 22–25 °C with a humidity of 80–90%. Periodically, the cuttings must be sprayed, but not over-moisten the soil, so that the cuttings do not die from waterlogging. As soon as the first leaves appear, the jars are removed and the cuttings are gradually hardened. When the bush becomes stronger, it is transplanted to a permanent place. Propagation by lignified cuttings. Well suited for climbing and miniature roses. Lignified cuttings are harvested in the fall, during pruning of roses. For harvesting, take well-developed and ripened, smooth annual stems 4–5 mm thick. The upper part of the shoot is removed. The cuttings are cut with a sharp knife or well-sharpened pruning shears, up to 20 cm long, with three to four buds each. The cut at the lower end of the cutting is made just under the bud; in the upper part of the cutting, the cut should be made obliquely in the middle of the internodes (at an equal distance between the buds). The cuttings are tied into bundles, arranged according to variety, wrapped in burlap and stored in damp sand until spring at a temperature of 1–2 °C. In the spring they are taken out, the sections are renewed and immediately lowered into water. Having taken it out of the water, plant it obliquely in the soil and water it. Only the upper bud remains visible. After planting, the cuttings are covered with jars or film. When the cutting takes root, the shelter is removed. Propagation by semi-lignified cuttings is carried out when the wood at the base of young shoots begins to ripen, harden and the bark turns brown. For cuttings, use the middle part of semi-lignified shoots at the flowering stage. Cuttings are harvested 7–10 cm long with 2-3 leaves. Before planting the cuttings, the substrate is watered. The prepared cuttings are planted in the ground to a depth of 1.5–2 cm. The boxes are placed in a dark place and covered with film. During the rooting period, high air humidity, optimal temperature (20–22 °C), and diffused sunlight are important. Cuttings take root in 3-4 weeks. Root cuttings are prepared from the underground parts of suckers that remain in the ground in the form of rhizomes, or from the underground parts of rose bushes. The collected rhizomes are temporarily buried in a basement or empty greenhouse, and in November they are cut into pieces 3–cm long, placed in boxes filled with soil, and leaf humus is added. Sprinkle about 1 cm of earth on top. For the winter, the boxes are put in a cool place. The soil should be moderately moist. In early spring, boxes with cuttings are placed in a cold greenhouse, where their root system begins to develop and green shoots with leaves appear. In April, the cuttings are planted in a greenhouse or soil. Please note: Usually in the first year, all cuttings still have a weak and shallow root system. Therefore, in winter it is better to store them in a basement or cellar at a temperature of 0–5 °C. And only in spring are roses planted in beds for growing or in a permanent place. You can feed young seedlings from cuttings with mineral fertilizers only when they take root and begin to grow. Watering roses In summer, roses are watered with settled and heated water: twice a week for young bushes, once for adults. After watering and loosening, mulching is done - the ground around the bushes is covered with a 5–8 cm layer of loose organic material. This will prevent evaporation and retain moisture in the soil during summer drought, reducing the number of weeds. Structure of a rose bush 1. Flower. 2. Escape with a flower. 3. Bud. 4. Fruit. 5. Imparipinnate leaf. 6. Five-lobed leaf. 7. Young one-year shoot. 8. Perennial woody shoot. 9. Axillary bud (eye). 10. Wild shoot or top from the rootstock. 11. Place of vaccination. 12. Root collar. 13. Rhizome. 14. Main root. 15. Lateral roots. A rose bush consists of an above-ground part - the crown, and an underground part - the root system. The crown consists of last year's shoots, which are called skeletal shoots. Shoots formed from their buds in the current season are designated as first order shoots. In turn, shoots of the second order are formed from their buds, etc. In most varieties of roses, powerful replacement shoots (wen) grow from the lower buds of last year's shoots or from the root collar. In subsequent years they will form the basis of the bush. At the end of summer, the rose bush is represented by skeletal shoots and one-year shoots - I, II and III orders. The root system of roses is fibrous and, as a rule, goes into the soil to a depth of 50–60 cm. Diseases of roses The most common diseases of roses: powdery mildew, rust and black spot. Powdery mildew on roses is a disease that affects young shoots, leaves, and buds. They become covered with a white coating, the leaves curl, and the shoots become bent. To cure a plant, in the fall all affected shoots must be cut off, the leaves burned, and the soil dug up. In the spring, dormant buds are sprayed with 2% copper sulfate (200 g per 10 liters of water) or 3% iron sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water). Rust on roses. This diagnosis is given to a rose if rusty spots appear on it, and on its lower part there are bright orange pads (an accumulation of fungal spores), which turn black by autumn and the leaves fall off. Shoots affected by rust are pruned. In early spring, before the buds open, the plants and soil around them are sprayed with any fungicide containing copper. In summer, spray with 1% Bordeaux mixture (100 g per 10 liters of water) or treat with the drug. Black spot on roses are small round brown or black spots with a yellow halo. Over time, they merge, covering almost the entire leaf blade and causing premature leaf fall. When a disease is detected, diseased fallen leaves are immediately collected and burned. In autumn, plants are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (40 g of potassium salt and double superphosphate per 10 liters of water), watering only at the roots. And in the spring, before the buds bloom, the bushes and the soil around are sprayed with 2-3% Bordeaux mixture (200–300 g per 10 l of water) or 3% iron sulfate (300 g per 10 l of water). Rose Pests A big problem for roses is pests. The most common of them are: rose aphid, spider mite, scale insect, rose sawfly. Rose aphid. Larvae and adult insects settle on leaves and ends of shoots, suck sap and cause deformation. In damaged plants, the buds do not open. The pest develops in ten or more generations. To prevent the progression of the disease, the plant is provided with an influx of fresh air and the dosage of nitrogen-containing preparations is observed. If the leaves are affected, they are removed and the plant is sprayed with a soap solution or nettle infusion. Avoid the use of chemicals. Thrips. These flying insects suck the juice from the buds that are ready to bloom. Damaged petals become deformed and brown spots appear on them. Spider mite. When a mite appears, a cobweb is visible on the underside of the leaf, and the top is covered with yellow dots. Method of control: treatment with a decoction of field ivy, acaricides Sunmite and Caesar. Scale insects can settle in both dry and wet areas. It leaves a discharge on the plant, on which fungus subsequently appears. Control method: treatment with paraffin or mineral oil. To combat thrips, spider mites and scale insects, plants are treated with infusions and solutions. Rose sawfly. Its larvae overwinter in the soil under rose bushes in a silk cocoon. In June, adult sawflies emerge from the pupae, and the female lays eggs under the skin of the young shoot. In these places the skin cracks and the shoot becomes bent. The larvae feed on leaves, eating them from the edges without touching the veins. Method of control: if a plant is damaged by a sawfly, treat the bushes with a solution of one of the following drugs: “Fufanon” (10 g per 10 l of water), “Inta-Vir” or “Iskra” (1 tablet per 10 l of water). Preventive spraying is carried out before buds open. In the fall, you should collect and burn all plant debris and dig up the ground under the bushes. Sheltering roses for the winter In September, watering and fertilizing are reduced. Before covering (before frost), it is better to remove (cut) the leaves. Roses are covered by hilling up to a height of 40 cm with earth, or they are wrapped in agrofibre. Climbing roses are removed, placed on material that will protect the shoots from moisture, and wrapped. Standard roses are bent to the ground before wrapping. Almost all varieties of park roses do not need shelter. Fertilizer and fertilizing Since roses can grow in one place for many years, before planting the soil is well fertilized - 6–8 kg of humus, up to 200 g of wood ash, up to 20 g of superphosphate and 30–40 g of potassium salt are added for each square meter. Roses should be fed with mineral fertilizers when the seedlings take root and begin to grow. At the end of May - beginning of June, you can apply nitrogen fertilizer (15–20 g/m2), at the end of June and July - nitrophoska (20 g/m2), in August - superphosphate (40 g/m2) and potassium salt (20 g /m2). This is the main feeding before flowering. If the rose was fertilized with nitrogen-containing preparations, then from mid-July they are no longer applied. Until mid-July, roses are fertilized with magnesium sulfate (20 g/10 l). This is the time for cutting roses.