Many owners prefer that the staircase trim be done wooden material. A staircase decorated with wood transforms the entire interior of the house. It does not dry out over time and does not creak. Modern equipment is installed on the stairs decorative fencing. The focus is on the design of the metal base to ensure it is beautiful appearance. Concrete frame for a staircase it will cost much less than a wooden one.
The work to be done on the staircase covering will be successful if it is done according to accurate calculations. Accepted standards for steps: length - 13 cm, width -30 cm.
Installation and covering of concrete stairs
After installing the monolithic concrete stairs, components from hardwood are selected for it. The staircase and its steps can be sheathed from boards made of ash, beech, and larch.
You should pay attention to the fact that the staircase covering can be done 2 months after its casting, otherwise the concrete will not have time to get rid of excess moisture and the steps will dry out quickly.
The following tools and materials are required for work:
- dowel-nails;
- screws;
- perforator;
- broom;
- level;
- ruler;
- Master OK;
- scissors;
- tree;
- tiles (mosaic, porcelain tiles);
- natural stone;
- plywood (moisture resistant);
- self-leveling mixture;
- adhesive mastic;
- primer.
Before covering the stairs with marble or wood, you should make a calculation when designing the thickness of the step covering. There must be a gap of at least 75 cm between the flights of concrete stairs.
Accuracy is important when making formwork for concrete stairs. It is made from moisture resistant plywood. The difference in step height is 9.5 mm.
At the first stage of work, all steps are measured. Determine the highest of them. The remaining steps are brought to its size using a self-leveling mixture. They are applied in an even layer to the surface of the step. If the difference is large, more than 1 cm, formwork is made using plywood, which is secured with dowels on the steps. In this case, the upper edge and the desired level coincide. The steps are cleaned of dirt and debris and primed. Filling is done after the primer mixture has completely dried.
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Laying plywood on stair steps
The next stage is attaching the plywood to the steps. Its main purpose is to insulate wooden linings to protect against excess moisture. The surface is primed again. Blanks are cut out of plywood. Entire surface concrete steps covered with mastic. Using dowels, the plywood is attached, laid on top of the mastic. It is laid level.
To finish a concrete staircase with wood, purchase the necessary tools and materials for the job:
- 3 bolts with a diameter of 6 mm;
- ruler;
- pencil;
- drill;
- drill;
- self-tapping screws;
- level;
- broom;
- liquid Nails;
- epoxy resin;
- facing board;
- plywood (sheets);
- polyurethane foam;
- putty.
Work is carried out in a bottom-up direction. 3 bolts with a diameter of 6 mm are screwed into the riser, into its lower end. The bolts should protrude 8 cm above its surface. All caps are carefully cut off. Wooden and concrete risers are combined. Make markings on the floor where the bolts will be screwed in. Drill holes at the marked points and pour into them epoxy resin. Before installation facing material, cover plywood liquid nails. In the area where the riser stops, a groove of the required depth is drilled into the step. The second riser is attached to the step with self-tapping screws. The entire surface of the plywood and the groove are treated with glue. The first stage is leveled. Then they go up and continue working until the end of the ladder. If a gap has formed on the side of the steps, fill it polyurethane foam and cover the top with putty.
While fulfilling one of the last orders, I heard a guy hanging wall cabinets in the kitchen ask his partner: “Listen, who is that old guy sitting there on the stairs?” To my horror, I quickly realized that there was only one staircase in the house and guessed who he was - this “old guy” the guys were talking about.
I must admit that they were right. For decades now I have had to make stairs according to individual orders and mount them, and in the process of this activity I really did not get any younger.
Rice. Durability, reliability and elegance with minimum costs. Since hardwood treads are expensive, this economical staircase uses 25mm OSB treads. Covered with carpet and edged with hardwood end caps, these steps look great.* End caps not only provide edging for carpeted steps, but also serve as supports for balusters. Using simple technological techniques, an economical staircase can be made so that it is both reliable and beautiful.
However, the years were not in vain - I gained experience in making stairs and came to some important conclusions. The main one is that a strong, reliable, beautiful and non-creaky staircase should be built under controlled conditions (preferably in a workshop).
With stationary equipment, it is possible to more accurately produce parts that, when fitted to each other, form a structure. Making stairs in a workshop allows all measurements to be taken in favorable lighting and comfortable conditions, which guarantees precision manufacturing. When working in the workshop, you will always have an additional clamp or other necessary equipment at hand. Here, problems with materials and tools are unlikely to arise, as often happens on a construction site.
Finally, another important reason for not having your staircase built on site is that you won't feel like you're in the way of those moving around the house doing their jobs.
There is nothing more impressive than arriving at a construction site with a staircase made as perfectly as a piano, carrying it into the house and effortlessly setting it in place. Such a spectacle turns any modest master into a real magician in the eyes of the client.
Despite all the listed advantages of this technology, most craftsmen still prefer to make stairs on a construction site. However, even there you can use the techniques that are used in the workshop. Of course, it is difficult to provide completely controlled conditions on a construction site. However, if you are not too lazy to make the simplest devices, the quality of work can be quite decent.
Plywood instead of boards
Over the years, I have become convinced that bowstrings should be made from materials with stable properties, such as plywood, and not from boards. When making stairs on a construction site, where air humidity fluctuates widely, wood shrinkage can greatly affect the quality of work. Stairs made with plywood strings are more stable in this regard. Bowstrings cut from standard lumber shrink unevenly when the humidity level inside the house stabilizes. This happens to a lesser extent in internal corners treads and risers (their narrowest places) and more significantly - in the outer corners, where the width of the bowstring is greatest. The unevenness of shrinkage leads to the fact that the front part of the treads begins to “collapse”. Stairs with such steps are not only dangerous. In addition, it is difficult to precisely trim the balusters to match the sloping treads, which noticeably spoils the appearance of the product. If the bowstrings are made of plywood, such problems do not arise.
Rice. High-quality plywood stringers. The load-bearing elements of the boards shrink when dry. Moreover, the part of the stringer in which the cutouts for treads and risers are made shrinks faster than the back part of the supporting beam of the stairs. As a result, the nose of the treads slopes downwards.
Materials - according to estimate. The design of the proposed staircase is universal, and it can be adapted to almost any finishing style and to any cost estimate by simply selecting certain materials. The product in question is an economical solution for those who are used to counting money.
A variety of finishing methods can be used for bowstrings and treads. For example, they can be painted or covered with stylish decor. Since the strings of our stairs were going to be covered with sheets of dry plaster and then painted, I chose inexpensive plywood intended for outdoor use. However, the risers also did not add much to the cost estimate. Since they were supposed to be covered with carpet, I cut them from OSB (oriented boards). shavings).
Rice. Double-layer stringers. Stringers glued together from two layers of plywood 18 mm thick are practically not subject to deformation due to shrinkage.
The first task is to cut the plywood for bowstrings into strips of the required width. Using parts 2.4 and 1.2 mg long for each layer, I connect them so that I end up with blanks 3.6 m long. If the house is already protected from adverse weather conditions and there is no need to fear that the stairs will be flooded with water during the rain; you can use quick-drying glue for interior works. I arrange the short and long strips in a checkerboard pattern and glue them.
I usually take a large, portable stand with me to the job site, which provides me with a level, flat surface. work surface for convenient fixation of parts. I note that most of my colleagues do not do this and assemble the staircase elements on the floor. Gluing is much easier to control on a specially adapted stand.
To quickly apply the glue, I use a paint roller. Having coated the plywood with glue, I connect the top and bottom layers and fix them every 30 cm with clamps. You need to carefully check that all the clamps are tightened tightly - otherwise the glue will be unevenly distributed over the surface. While the glue on the stringer blanks dries, you can not waste time and start trimming the treads and risers.
To determine the depth of the treads, I first calculate the width of the overhang. The end caps I usually use for treads are 45mm wide. IN in this case The treads were supposed to be covered with carpet 12 mm thick. To take this into account, I had to cut off these 12 mm longitudinally from each part.
Rice. The contours of each tread and each riser must be copied very accurately. Measuring devices attached with clamps to the edge of the square allow you to accurately follow the contour of each step.
To prevent the stairs from creaking
After the glue has hardened, I free the stringer assembly from the clamps, and then use a square to draw the profile of the bowstring on the blank.
When measuring the total length and width of stairs, one should proceed from the size of the opening in the ceiling. When measuring the rise of a staircase, as a rule, the distance from the lower finished floor to the upper one is taken. However, in this case, at the beginning of the march it was planned landing, in front of which it was supposed to install an additional step. This meant that the total rise of the stairs had to be measured from the top of this landing, and not from the floor of the lower floor.
The design in question has a cutout where the staircase rests on the landing, as well as a similar cutout for the floor beam at the upper end of the staircase. This allows you to achieve a neat pairing of the stringers with the opening. I note that attention to such “little things” always distinguishes the work of a true master,
Having defined all these parameters, I can already set exact dimensions the lower platform, the construction of which I immediately begin, so that it is ready by the time the time comes to install the stairs. Upon completion of the installation of the platform, I check each connection, which is very important if you want to get a non-sloping staircase.
The creaking of treads occurs as a result of shrinkage and warping of wood. When it dries, the fasteners no longer provide tight connections. As a result, parts and fasteners begin to rub against each other, causing squeaking. What we hear, as a rule, is the sound of wood moving relative to the nail.
Many craftsmen working on a construction site ignore such special equipment (for example, clamps, stops, guides), believing that its manufacture requires extra effort. Of course, this is true, but using a guide allows me to avoid defects that arise as a result of cutting by eye. The cuts that I make using the clamping device fill all the voids, the joints are tight, so the ladder does not make squeaks when moving along it.
Rice. With the help of a jig you can make perfect cuts. The base plate of the circular saw is pressed against a simple device made of fiberboard. The cuts are completed with a hacksaw and then cleaned.
Among other things, I always add a plywood trim to the top riser where the staircase attaches to the landing top floor. This “back” gives additional rigidity installed stairs, eliminating another potential source of squeaking.
Simple clamps speed up trimming and assembly
The clamping device, which serves as a limiter for the circular saw when making cuts for risers and treads in the stringer, I usually make from scraps of fiberboard,
Using a jig is another technique that I always use to improve joint quality. wooden elements, which is typical for furniture,
Rice. Assembly slipway. A clamping device made from strips of plywood holds the stringers at a given distance from each other while the master creates treads and risers.
Because the circular saw It is difficult to complete the cut to the end in each corner, I do it with a hacksaw. After making the first stringer, I press it tightly with clamps to the second piece and draw contours on it. I make the second stringer in exactly the same way as the first.
After both stringers are trimmed, I make an assembly jig, which is based on a pair of sawhorses. This device allows me to hold the stringers securely and strictly parallel at a convenient height for working.
Most carpenters I see working on jobsites either assemble ladders on the floor, crawling on their knees, or erect them in situ (floating) and struggle to attach treads and risers while holding stringers.
Rice. The control marks will help you align the strings in clamping fixture. To ventilate the control marks, the stringers are laid flat. To align the stringers you will need a square and a ruler.
It takes literally a few minutes to install the assembly slipway. As a result, I get a comfortable workplace, allowing you to assemble staircase elements with minimal effort and with excellent quality.
I make the assembly slipway from two “platforms” 2.4 m long, mounted between sawhorses. Each “platform” is a 25 cm wide plywood base “strip”, to which a 7.5 cm wide plywood overlay is attached with screws. I attach the “platforms” to sawhorses with screws so that the distance between the stringers installed in a vertical position corresponds to the specified width of the stairs. To press the stringers to the overlays, I use spacers.
I align the stringers on the assembly slip to the control marks using a square. I make control marks like this: I lay the stringers flat close to each other and draw pencil lines in several places across both parts. Then, when the stringers are already on the slipway, I use a square and a ruler to align these pencil marks on one line, As a result load-bearing beams In the right place, I install a block with a section of 50x50 mm behind the upper edge of the riser to ensure reliable fastening of the riser and tread using screws. Before installing the next tread, I install the next riser and again the block. Then I glue the tread and attach it with the help of the bottom; they turn out to be perfectly aligned with each other.
First, the risers are installed, then the treads. For each step, first a riser is attached to the stringers, and then a tread. To hold the pieces together until the glue dries, staples are driven into the treads through the backs of the risers.
Rice. Reinforced upper riser. The upper riser is reinforced with a plywood overlay, which is secured with screws from the rear side. To support the top tread to the bottom edge of this<<эадникз» потом добавляют деревянный брусок. Ею выступающая кромка служит удобной «ручкой» при монтаже марша.
I would like to draw the readers' attention to the width of the stairs. When determining this parameter, you should remember about the amendments that will have to be made taking into account the finishing materials (sheets of dry plaster or something else). Our staircase is mounted along the wall, so I provided a gap for installing sheets of dry plaster, adding a few millimeters to it so that the finished staircase fits into the opening without problems.
First - paper clips, then - screws
Once the treads and risers are cut to the required length, you can begin assembling the stairs. As I already noted, so that the stairs do not creak later, all joints must be fastened with screws. However, first it is advisable to use paper clips to hold the elements until the glue dries. Only then can each connection be strengthened with screws.
I start assembling the stairs from the bottom riser. Having glued and secured this part with paper clips, one paper clip is intended for each bowstring and two paper clips for the riser bar. I also drive two staples into the tread through the plywood riser. I do this from the inside of the riser. In the same way, I glue and staple all the other risers and treads (with the exception of the top elements).
Rice. Screws eliminate squeaking. When the glue dries, each joint is reinforced with screws to ensure a tight connection.
I first fasten the upper riser to a plywood “back”, which will then be inserted into the bowstring sockets. While installing the last tread and fixing it with paper clips, I hold this unit in its intended place. The reinforced top riser is one of the trademarks of the stairs I make. The “back” not only gives rigidity to the upper riser when moving and transporting the stairs, but also turns out to be a convenient “handle” when installing the flight into place,
Before removing the ladder from the clamping device, I secure the treads with both stringers and reinforcement bars. To do this, I use screws with large threads and a square head. These fasteners securely hold the parts together, ensuring the strength of the assembly.
Rice. The utility rail provides back clearance for drywall sheets. A rail attached to the stringer holds the march at a given distance from the wall posts. Thanks to this, after the staircase is installed, covering the walls with a stringer and dry plaster will not be difficult.
I complete the assembly of the upper assembly of the staircase by screwing several screws through the “back” into the stringer at the cutout for the floor beam. I also attach a 15 mm thick technological strip to the stringer adjacent to the wall, which will then provide finishing to the wall.
Now I can turn the ladder on its side so I can drive screws through the back of each riser and into each tread in approximately 15cm increments. As a finishing touch I add another 50x50mm piece of wood under the top tread near the plywood "back".
Installation of stairs. A simple straight staircase like ours can not only be assembled, but also installed within one working day. However, this time I decided to postpone the final installation steps until the next day. The fact is that two young carpenters working in the kitchen were so carried away by watching me adjust the steps that they were more tired than me.
The next day, when I arrived at the work site, two of my young friends were already waiting for me to help with the installation of the ladder. Having carefully checked the dimensions of the platform on which it was to be installed, we proceeded to “dry” fit the stairs (without gluing). Finally, the time has come to take hold of the top riser assembly. My partners remained below, and I climbed up and grabbed the upper edge of the ladder by the protruding “handle”. After making sure that the ladder was in place, we removed it.
Fig. Now you can walk on it. After the staircase is installed and fastened with screws, and an additional step is laid near the lower platform, the march can already be used to move from level to level. End caps and balusters can be installed later during the finishing stage of the staircase.
For final installation, I carefully coated the seats with glue, after which we put the march in place again. Having verified everything properly, I drove a nail through the top riser into the floor lintel, securing the stairs. Now the assistants below could retire and breathe a sigh of relief. I continued the installation - I pulled the ladder to the floor lintel with screws, screwing them through the reinforced riser, and then moved down and fastened the stringers to the platform. Finally, I connected the stringer located on the wall side with the racks using long screws.
A day later, I built a step leading to the lower landing. A box of OSB scraps left over from the treads, fastened with screws, was attached to the platform using screws and glue. The wooden overlays on the treads were installed later during the installation of the fence balusters. To the delight of the clients, the staircase at a modest cost turned out to be comfortable, reliable and, most importantly, non-creaky.
Initially, it should be noted that our company has its own production base in St. Petersburg for the manufacture of steps for stairs and other related wood products used in stairs and stair railings. When making steps from various materials, we are not interested in clearly extolling the properties of one product over another, so we will try to give a balanced assessment of the qualities of the different steps we produce.
Each type of product discussed has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, unfortunately, we cannot give unambiguous recommendations that such steps are better and, they say, only they should be oriented. We will list some properties and give them a small set of explanations. So…
SOLID WOOD STEPS
Our company makes steps only from dense wood. Sometimes they are also called noble breeds. The most commonly used species are beech and oak. Somewhat less often, larch, ash, and maple are ordered. In this note, we will not list all the differences between tree species, but will only touch on those properties that affect the strength and wear resistance of the steps.
Of course, everything described below is valid for stages produced on special equipment with careful adherence to the entire technological chain:
- Selection of quality wood from a trusted supplier
- Conditioning wood in production to bring the temperature and humidity of the wood to the workshop level.
- Calibration of lamellas (bars) of future steps.
- Gluing steps in special presses
- Exposure of shields for stress relief
- Processing and calibration of shields
- Conditioning of wooden steps to control the condition of the surface.
As you can see, the density and hardness of the wood we use is approximately the same, which means the strength of the steps is also approximately the same. Therefore, when choosing between different tree species, you should consider appearance and possibly price.
It should be noted that beech has one operational feature - increased hygroscopicity compared to other species. That is, it is saturated with moisture faster and releases more intensely.
How does this affect the operation of the stages? I must say, on average, it is insignificant. This slight difference from other species affects a certain separation of glue seams on the surface of the wood and slight cracking along the grain. Let us explain, this is a really small difference, which in most cases is not significant, manifests itself in small structural changes, which, as a rule, do not affect the strength characteristics of the steps, but only on their appearance and, as we said above, in our opinion, insignificantly . In addition, all these consequences are usually removable. Small restoration measures carried out locally, i.e. without removing steps, using wax crayons and non-halo varnishes, can eliminate most of the negative effects. If, due to any negative influences (high humidity, excessive dryness, accident, the house without heating for a long time), restoration measures are not enough, the design of our stairs allows you to simply replace the step with a temporary one, followed by its restoration in the carpentry shop or immediately with a new one.
Solid wood steps are produced using several technologies:
- Steps made of laminated veneer lumber of one type of wood. These are the steps that can be called made from oak, beech, etc., i.e., from solid wood.
This is exactly how we make our steps. Gluing technology is also used in the manufacture of wooden handrails.
It should be noted here that there is a type of lamella gluing made from wide and narrow boards, which also externally (without a deck) look like steps made from wide boards. We do not use this gluing technology, because we consider it, although less labor intensive, but also less reliable.
- Steps with a base made of weak wood (for example, pine) and then covered with veneer or a deck of noble types of wood are steps made of combined wood. Although such steps are cheaper in cost, they are clearly worse in quality due to the use of a soft base and different densities, which can provoke future cracking - not our technology.
- Solid wood steps with deck cladding. The deck is, one might say, the same as veneer, but only much thicker. We use 5mm deck. Decking has virtually no effect on the strength of the steps; it is a decorative layer that allows you to give the steps the appearance of being made of a wide board.
To sum up the description of solid wood steps, let’s say that their main property is the high density of wood, i.e. the strength of the step itself.
Solid wood steps resist external force well, in the form of objects falling onto a plane or something similar, but, of course, like any wood, they are afraid of ladies' hairpins.
STEPS ON A PLYWOOD BASE WITH DECK AND VENEER COVERING
Let's remember the difference between deck and veneer. Veneer is a thin section of wood 0.6 -1.2 mm. A deck is considered wood that is thicker than veneer, usually up to 12 mm. We use a 5 mm thick deck.
What are the advantages of such steps?
- Steps made using this technology are cheaper than steps made entirely of solid wood.
- The steps are covered with a deck on top, a special entry bar is installed at the entrance, and the remaining visible parts of the steps are covered with veneer. That is, the steps externally look like steps made using expensive technology - solid wood covered with a deck.
- A step on plywood is less susceptible, unlike solid wood, to temperature and humidity effects.
But there is also a small minus. Such steps are somewhat less durable due to a softer base, since plywood is usually made from birch than steps from solid beech, oak, ash and other dense types of wood we use.
Softer is not significant. Steps on a plywood base have performed well in bolted stairs, in which the strength properties of wood are very important.
But, nevertheless, the most important property in this product is precisely the ability to better tolerate moisture exposure than completely natural wood.
When installing facing steps on concrete stairs, as a rule, before laying, the concrete steps are prepared, including in order to cut off possible moisture on the steps, a layer of plywood is laid on the concrete. Our steps are immediately, without such preparation, suitable for facing concrete steps.
GENERAL CONCLUSION
Based on all of the above, we can conclude that if:
- if you want to save money, use plywood-based steps
- for cladding concrete stairs - plywood-based steps are also suitable.
- steps made of solid wood, for cladding concrete stairs, install after preliminary preparation
- For most suspended or bolted stairs, as well as stringer stairs, steps made of solid dense wood are suitable.
Experts use plywood most often for covering the frame of stairs or making steps. Since this material is not as strong as wood or metal. In some cases, plywood is used on concrete stairs to cover its base.
Plywood stairs - simple and economical
Pros and cons of the material
Plywood is moisture resistant. Unlike wood, plywood parts always shrink evenly and do not deform. If a house with plywood stairs is not heated during the winter season, you don’t have to worry that the structure will deteriorate due to temperature changes. The steps will not crack and will not lose functionality, both in heat and cold. In addition, the material is not expensive.
Plywood also has disadvantages. The material has low density. Because of this, plywood stair steps can wear out quickly. In appearance, a staircase covered with plywood is not particularly attractive. But this drawback can be easily corrected by choosing the right type of finish. You can decorate plywood with paints or cladding.
Staircase manufacturing process
A DIY plywood staircase requires a large amount of material. It is cheaper to install metal stringers, which have metal supports with steps covered with plywood. If the structure is made entirely of plywood, then the stringers are made of 40 mm sheets. thick.
The manufacturing process is similar to the process of creating a wooden staircase:
- Steps are marked on plywood strips. Then the stringers are cut. It is important to monitor their symmetry. To do this, the first part is used as a template when cutting out the second element. It is better to cut the first part according to the drawing. You can make the layout yourself or download it from the Internet.
- All details of the steps are manufactured. Each element is aligned with the previous one to avoid distortions and gaps during assembly.
- Plywood steps for the stairs are assembled. If according to the plan the structure has risers, they are assembled first. Then the treads are installed. The elements are attached to the stringers using self-tapping screws. It is recommended to pre-glue the parts. This installation will be stronger.
- Upon completion of assembly, the structure is installed in the prepared place. It is attached first to the upper ceiling, then to the floor.
- If fencing is provided, they are made of the same material. You can make fences from wooden beams or metal. The staircase to the second floor with a railing looks more impressive. In addition, it is safer, especially in families with small children. The fence can be solid or with gaps.
For the solid version, take a sheet of plywood, cut out a proportionate part and attach it to the stringer and to the floor. Can be made from several pieces of material if there is no solid sheet.
To do the job correctly, you can watch videos from professionals in advance. Assess your capabilities and only then start working.
Plywood as a finishing material
Finishing the stairs with plywood is an economical and practical option. If the structure is concrete, it doesn’t look very good without cladding. The plywood finish will give it a neat look. You can choose the material to match the main color of the interior or paint it yourself. After looking at different photos of finished structures, you can choose the appropriate finishing option.
To sheathe concrete with plywood, you will need accurate measurements of the finished steps, risers (if any), as well as side elements. Some people only cover the surface of the steps, without side trim. You can see in the photo what it looks like.
To correctly determine the dimensions of the cladding parts, measure the highest step and cut out the elements based on its measurements. Before laying plywood, it is important to clean the concrete from dust and dirt. It is better to rinse well with soapy water and dry.
I greet respected experts and ask for advice, since I have not received a clear answer to my question on construction forums. I'm interested in a DIY plywood staircase. I saw one like this on the construction market, ready-made, you just need to assemble it on site. But the size didn't fit. You could order it for yourself, but doubts arose about its practicality and durability.
As for parameters such as price and appearance, they suit me, since I need a staircase for a summer cottage. But how long will it last in an unheated house in winter? Well, it would be nice to make the design even cheaper, so I want to make it myself (I have experience). Maybe there are some nuances that are worth paying attention to?
Hello, Mikhail. It’s strange that you weren’t answered on the forums, because covering stairs with plywood is a fairly common occurrence. As well as solid structures made of this material, and steps made of plywood on a base made of other materials.
In general, there are many options for using it in the construction of stairs.
It is believed that plywood for staircase steps can only be used as a kind of underlay, for example, leveling a concrete base before it is faced with wood. Indeed, such an application is not uncommon. But this material has properties and characteristics that allow it to be used for finishing or structural elements of stairs.
What are these characteristics?
Advantages of plywood as a material for stairs
When compared with wood, plywood has several important advantages over it:
- Higher resistance to humidity changes. And, as a result, there is a lower risk of uneven shrinkage of structural elements.
- Resistance to air temperature fluctuations. What is important in your case when the stairs are located in a house that is unheated in winter.
- High strength characteristics associated with the properties listed above. Plywood steps are unlikely to crack due to temperature and humidity fluctuations and lose their load-bearing capacity.
- Affordable price.
For reference. To be fair, the last point requires clarification: a DIY staircase made of plywood is unlikely to cost much less than the same structure made of pine or other inexpensive types of wood. Especially if it is thick, moisture-resistant plywood, or if the staircase will subsequently be finished with veneer, deck or other similar materials.
Disadvantages of the material
Plywood has two serious disadvantages:
- Since the material is made mainly from birch, which has a low density, plywood steps for stairs can wear out quickly;
- Unpresentable appearance.
But both of these shortcomings can be corrected with high-quality finishing, the use of paints and cladding.
Manufacturing
To make a staircase with your own hands, you will need a lot of plywood - if the entire structure is assembled from this material. It is easier and cheaper to install metal stringers with supports for plywood steps.
If you decide to make a completely plywood staircase, then for stringers you should take sheets 40 mm thick.
Advice. You can glue two sheets of 18 mm thickness. In this case, gluing long strips should be done in a checkerboard pattern with a ratio of short and long elements of 1:3.
The manufacturing instructions differ little from the process of creating wooden stairs:
- First, markings of steps are applied to strips of plywood and stringers are cut out. To make them symmetrical, when cutting out the second part, the first one is used as a template.
- Then all the elements of the steps are made and assembly begins.
- If a structure with risers is planned, then they are installed first, and then treads are laid on top.
- To prevent the stairs from creaking when walking, the treads are first glued and fixed on the reverse side with staples, and after the glue has dried, they are pulled to the stringers at the joints with screws.
After assembling the structure, it is installed in place and secured first to the upper ceiling and then to the floor.
Conclusion
The video in this article shows the manufacturing process in more detail. To give specific recommendations, you need to know what kind of design you have planned.
As for the main question, it can be briefly answered as follows: manufacturing and cladding stairs with plywood is a completely acceptable option not only for a summer house, but also for a home with permanent residence.