Laminate on the wall to cover the end. Laminate on the wall: mounting methods, finishing walls with laminate, step-by-step process

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Possibilities of covering walls with laminate in residential premises. What to pay attention to when choosing a material and how to perform installation correctly.

How to use laminate to decorate an apartment

An unusual solution for wall decoration can be laminate cladding. This material is suitable not only for the floor, but also for the vertical surfaces of the apartment. This is a practical and relatively inexpensive way to make a room original.

Features of laminate wall finishing

Cover one of the walls or a fragment of a wall. In some interiors, cladding the lower part of the walls will be relevant. Laminate decoration is suitable for interiors in the following styles: loft, country, English style.

The arrangement of the lamellas can be horizontal, vertical, diagonal. They can be the same color or consist of different collections.

You can choose interesting combinations and arrangements of lamellas yourself, using images from magazines or websites dedicated to interior design.

Advantages of laminate


Main advantages:

  • it is easy to install;
  • has a smooth coating that is easy to wash and clean from dust;
  • There are collections with a moisture-resistant coating; they can be used to decorate walls in the kitchen;
  • large selection of textures, colors and patterns;
  • affordable cost - the thinnest lamellas are used for walls;
  • You can hide the unevenness of the wall.

Disadvantages of use

Flaws:

  • additional costs - installation cannot be done independently without having the appropriate experience;
  • at low temperatures the material will deform, so it cannot be used in country houses that are not heated in winter;
  • When installing lamellas on the lathing, you need to decorate the thickness from the wall to the edge of the laminate.

Types of laminate that are suitable for finishing indoor walls

The material differs in the type of outer surface, it can be:

  • glossy;
  • matte;
  • with imitation tiles, can be glossy or matte;
  • with a decorative layer of natural wood;
  • with a textured surface.

Laminate also differs in strength classes:

  • class 33 is the most durable and is more suitable for flooring in public spaces with a large number of visitors;
  • class 32 and 31 are also durable and do not deform during prolonged contact with water;
  • class 23, 22, suitable for residential premises;
  • class 21 is only suitable for wall cladding: living room, bedroom, corridor.

The manufacturer usually indicates the material class on the packaging, and you can also check it with your sales consultant.

Laminate is produced in thicknesses from 6 to 12 mm, it differs in the type of connections:

  • tongue and groove lock - consists of a groove on one side and a special tenon on the other side;
  • Click lock is a simpler type of connection. Here the tenon is shaped like a hook; it is inserted into the groove at an angle and then straightened, causing a click to occur. This connection allows you to make the laminate collapsible.

Laminate wall finishing: mounting methods

The main types of material installation on the wall:

  • on a lathing made of wooden slats;
  • for glue or liquid nails;
  • using clamps.

The choice of type of fastening depends on the purpose of the room and the condition of the walls. It is better to use the frame in a spacious room, since in a hallway or small kitchen it will take up a lot of space.

Before installing the material, it is necessary to prepare the surface. If the plaster is crumbling or the wall is uneven, the base should be leveled. Small defects can be corrected yourself. These may be cracks or small depressions. If the wall defects are significant, then it is better to level it with drywall.

Is it possible to glue

For gluing to the wall, it is better to use a thin laminate. The wall must be flat, without differences in height.

Which glue to choose


There are several types of glue:

  1. With weathering - after applying glue to the lamella, it must be pressed against the wall and then removed. The surface should be weathered for 5 to 10 minutes. Then the lamella is glued to the wall.
  2. No chapping. At first glance, this option saves time, but after gluing two rows, you should let the glue set. Otherwise, the entire finish may shift under the weight of the upper rows.

Using a wooden frame will help save money and time on leveling the surface. The slats are attached to the wall perpendicular to the direction of the laminate, and a frame is made along the edges. They are attached in increments equal to half the lamella. This will ensure ease of installation.

Fastening with clamps: installation options

For convenient fastening of the laminate to a wooden frame, you can use clamps. These are metal clips that securely hold the panels and provide slight movement of the slats. The clamps come in different sizes and are coated to prevent rust. Therefore, they can be used even in rooms with high humidity.

Methods of fastening clamps

They are attached to a wooden sheathing or sheathing with a sheet of fiberboard or plywood using:

  • special staples; a construction stapler is used for this. When pressed, the staple should completely enter the surface; if this does not happen, you need to drive the staple with a hammer;
  • nails;
  • self-tapping screws

First, the clamp is installed, and then its horizontalness is checked using a level.

Selecting a cladding option, depending on the wall and room dimensions


Vertical installation of lamellas is much easier. This option is suitable for low rooms and can visually increase the height of the room. Narrow panels are suitable for a small room. For a wide wall, it is better to choose slats of large width.

How to attach laminate flooring to a plasterboard wall

Laminate is usually attached to such a surface using glue. Drywall must first be primed. For this option, the thinnest laminate is used. Since if there is a lot of weight, the wall surface may collapse.

How to cover uneven walls with laminate

You can also use laminate on uneven walls, but to do this you need to use wood lathing.

The sheathing must be installed strictly horizontally and vertically; if gaps form between the timber and the wall, then special spacers made of thin wood must be installed.

How to glue adhesive laminate with your own hands: step-by-step instructions


Glue the laminate in the following sequence:

  • level the wall with plaster or plywood;
  • glue the lamellas from bottom to top in several rows, depending on the glue;
  • After installation and drying of the glue, install the baseboard and decorative strips.

Surface preparation

It is necessary to apply a primer to the wall to ensure adhesion of the surface to the adhesive. After drying, begin installing the slats. You can also install a sheathing of beams and screw a sheet of plywood.

Preparing wood sheathing

After purchasing the slats, they should not be immediately attached to the wall; they should lie in the room. During this time, the wood may dry out a little, this will help avoid deformation when attaching the laminate.

How to secure without lathing

Without lathing, the slats can be glued to a leveled wall. The second option: a sheet of plywood is attached to the sheathing, and lamellas are glued onto it.

Sticking

Glue is applied to the first panel in wavy lines and pressed against the wall, aligning along the intended line. Then they tap it with a special wooden hammer.

How to mount horizontally: how to stick


A small gap should be provided between the floor covering and the wall laminate. To do this, you need to draw a horizontal line on the surface of the wall at a distance of no more than 2 cm from the floor. After gluing the lamellas, the gap is covered with a plinth.

How to lay it out vertically

For vertical installation, you must first draw a vertical line on the wall, and lay the lamellas along it from bottom to top. After installing the first vertical row, install the next one, leveling each element using a level.

Facing: how to do it

They start tiling from the floor, usually from the left corner. After installing the first row, proceed to the next ones. After installing two horizontal layers, the work must be left, as the glue must set.

How to make and fix tongue-and-groove laminate on the wall yourself: installation technology


Tongue and groove laminate has a special locking connection. You do not need to use glue to install it.

List of tools

  • mallet;
  • glue;
  • level;
  • construction corner;
  • hacksaw;
  • hammer drill

How to make a frame for covering

For lathing, slats with a width of 20 to 40 mm are used. Their placement must be marked on the wall using a pencil and level. The pitch of the slats is approximately equal to half the width of the lamella. It is necessary to make a frame of slats around the perimeter.

How to attach the sheathing: fasteners

The slats are attached using self-tapping screws in increments of about 30 cm. The slats must be smooth and dry. The rail can be installed by drilling through it and into the wall. It can also be secured using a steel angle with holes for self-tapping screws. First, the corner is attached to the wall, and then the rail on the side is screwed to the corner.

How to lay soundproofing sheathing


Sound insulation is installed between the beams of the sheathing. It should fit snugly against the beams; mineral wool is usually used.

How to lay laminate: how to install

It can be attached to surfaces in several ways:

  • gluing each lamella separately;
  • using clamps;
  • small nails that are nailed onto the plank; this option is reminiscent of installing lining.

First, the lamellas are covered with glue, then inserted into the lock and pressed to the surface. After this, gently tap with a mallet.

How to set interior corners

When forming an internal corner, you need to remember that laminate swells with high humidity, so you need to step back at least 1 cm from each wall. You can decorate the resulting space using a special corner.

How to decorate the edge: how to close it


The outer corner can be decorated using a plastic corner, which can be purchased at a hardware store. It can be made of MDF to match the color of the laminate.

How to lay corners

The corner must cover the joining seam and have a hidden fastening method. It consists of a strip and a decorative outer element. In the center of the seam, fastenings for the strip are made. Drill holes and install screws. Then the outer part is installed on top.

How to finish the surface

You can hide the sides using a decorative strip or edge tape. Tongue and groove laminate can be installed horizontally, vertically, or at an angle. In the latter option there will be a lot of waste, this must be taken into account when purchasing material.


The outer corner of the laminate is usually decorated with a corner. Also, some manufacturers produce a special profile with which you can make the corner more accurate.

Thicker slats are easier to install, but the thinnest slats are used for wall cladding.

For ease of installation, it is advisable to trim and lay the slats on the floor. If floor space does not allow, then you can lay out two or three rows on the floor, gradually transferring the parts to the wall.

Laminate can be used not only for floors, but also for walls. Here you can combine different shades and use thin lamellas of tongue and groove or click laminate.

Useful video

Finishing walls with laminate does not require professional skills or much physical effort. In general, this material was developed as a universal floor covering, but it soon became clear that it could be used for other surfaces. Firstly, its decorative appearance is great for creating different types of interiors. Secondly, at its price it is much cheaper than many other finishing products.

Laminate has several significant advantages that set it apart from other materials. Some of them:

  • The coating has good wear-resistant qualities. They were laid out based on its intended purpose. It is not exposed to most pollutants. Easy to clean.
  • Decorative look - allows you to create individuality. The variety of colors and textures make it truly universal.
  • The cost is significantly lower than other types of finishes, while its durability is much higher.
  • It tolerates high and low temperatures well, but not sudden changes. Possesses significant fire resistance.
  • Installing laminate flooring on a wall does not require much time. All work is completed very quickly.

Attention! Laminate has significant advantages. It can be used in any room. However, the use of this material is not recommended in rooms with high humidity.

Selection rules

Do not think that all laminate has the same properties. No, like other types of products, it has a number of varieties that determine its performance.

  1. A distinctive feature of this material is its abrasion resistance. It is determined by the class that was assigned to it.
  2. For wall cladding you won’t need a high class (the highest is 34), but you don’t need to choose the lowest (it is 21). It is better to give preference to average values.
  3. They immediately decide on texture and color. This is very important if work needs to be done over large areas. The fact is that different batches may have significant differences, different shades. Therefore, it is better to make the purchase simultaneously.
  4. Having a certificate of conformity is a mandatory condition. Materials used for finishing premises must be environmentally friendly.

When choosing a laminate, like any other finishing materials, you need to pay special attention

Wall mounting

Laying laminate on the wall is carried out in two ways:

  1. By creating a sheathing (frame).
  2. Using glue, the material can be glued to the surface.

Attention! To secure the laminate, use special glue or liquid nails. It should immediately be emphasized that this type of finishing requires no less preparation than the construction of a frame. Can only be pasted on a perfectly flat surface. If you ignore this point, then all the joints and distortions will be immediately visible.

You can also use sheets of plasterboard as the surface to be covered with laminate.

Method one - glue

So, it all starts with preparation:

  • The wall is completely cleaned, all foreign elements are removed.
  • It is immediately determined which type of preliminary finishing will be chosen. This could be puttying the surface or covering it with sheets of plasterboard. In any case, you need to get a perfectly flat surface.
  • The required amount of materials is calculated. A minimum reserve of 7-10% is taken into account.
  • The tool is being prepared:
    electric jigsaw or hand saw;
    drill and screwdriver;
    trowel or glue gun;
    level;
    mallet;
    rags.
  • Elements of the door structure - platbands - are removed. They will need to be installed after all the work. If the doors have not yet been installed, then there is no need to rush. You can install the box, but do not do the cladding (do not use additional trim) - until the laminate is laid.

Direct installation:


Thus, a fairly attractive surface is obtained, but only if the base has been properly prepared.

Advice! It is necessary to monitor the difference in height between the walls. This is especially true when it comes time for the top row. Correct measurements allow for precise cutting.

Method two - we make the sheathing

It is believed that this technology is the most reliable. It is better if a material is chosen that has a significant length of slats. This will cut the work in half. In addition, laying laminate flooring on a frame does not require leveling the walls, which saves budget. But there is one drawback - the sheathing “eats up” some area.


It all starts with the construction of the frame:

  • For work, timber 40*40 or larger is used.
  • Calculate the number of vertical posts. This is quite simple - they proceed from the length of the selected laminate, taking into account that it must be attached in three places.
  • All slats are drilled out immediately (step 250-300 mm). For speed of work, it is better to take one stencil of holes as a basis.
  • One centimeter is measured from the floor and ceiling. At this height all vertical posts will be secured.
  • The required spaces are marked along the wall. But they should not be more than 40 - 50 cm.
  • Using one strip, which has been pre-drilled, mark the mounting points (along the entire wall).
  • The dowels are driven in.
  • The first rack is installed. She is immediately baited. The main thing is to do the alignment correctly. To do this, use a level, and place a backing under the rail itself. Next, the procedure is repeated.
  • Thus, a frame appears that covers the entire surface.

Timber frame
  1. The first row is fastened according to this principle: the first plank is screwed to the rack, this is done at the very bottom, where the baseboard will be located. Use screws that have a countersunk head.
  2. For further fastening, it is better to use clamps. The joining of elements occurs from the selected lock.
  3. And again remember that the laminate is laid in a checkerboard pattern.

It is better to clean the place of the lock where the clamp will be attached first. That is, drown it a little. Then the connection will not be difficult.

In principle, the lathing can be made not only for the horizontal arrangement of elements. If you increase the number of racks, you can create a diagonal pattern. But such work will require more strength and concentration.

On a note! You can use a metal profile, which is used for fastening sheets of drywall. Then you will need to select the appropriate fittings. And we also must not forget that the space that remains between the wall and the material can and should be used for additional insulation and waterproofing.

As a result

How to put laminate on a wall? Very simple. You need to follow a fairly simple technology and take into account the characteristics of a particular room. And also forget forever that this material is made primarily for flooring.

The original use of facing materials has long been part of the practice of decorating interiors in unusual ways. One of the many design solutions is finishing the interior surfaces with laminated flooring. Compared to the traditional use of lining, sheets of plastic or MDF, laminate panels certainly benefit from durability and attractive appearance. The products are not hygroscopic enough, and it is undesirable to use them for cladding rooms with high humidity. Therefore, before gluing the laminate to the wall, the fastening methods should be studied in more detail. No matter how strange it may seem, attaching a laminate flooring to other planes is not much more difficult than doing it at its intended destination - on the floor. A properly fixed laminated element will diversify and make the interior of a hallway, hall, bedroom or living room unusual.

The best qualities of the product speak in favor of the use of newfangled finishing: high wear resistance, reasonable cost, durability, ease of maintenance. The material is produced in a wide range. Although it resembles natural wood, manufacturing technologies make it possible to produce boards with different textures, textures, and various wood shades. Installation of laminate on the wall can be carried out:

  • on a wooden sheathing, this method is called frame. For its production, well-dried bars treated with antiseptic agents are used;
  • on a frame made of aluminum profiles using silicone sealants;
  • with special glue or liquid nails;
  • using clamps, which are usually used for MDF panels.
On glue
For clamps
On a wooden sheathing
On an aluminum profile

If attaching laminate flooring to frames does not require an absolutely flat surface, then gluing it or fastening it with clamps without first preparing the wall will not work.

Laminate flooring material is quite heavy. It is not advisable for them to cover plasterboard partitions. There is a danger of collapse.

To choose the right method for attaching laminate to the wall, you should take into account factors such as the condition of the surface and the geometric dimensions of the room. Because the frame, no matter how thin it is, still steals space. You may have to level the surface, since attaching the laminate to the wall with adhesive will be more convenient than building a sheathing.

Laying options

It makes absolutely no sense to cover all the surfaces in the room with laminate. Not everyone likes a floor that extends onto internal planes all the way to the ceiling, or even onto it, from the same material. Even in different shades and textures. But individual accents and inserts can add some zest and uniqueness to the interior. Moreover, laminated slats fit perfectly next to any finishing materials. Therefore, they are applicable both in classic interiors and in modern decorations, such as industrial style or hi-tech. The decorator decides how to put laminate on the wall individually in each case.

There can be many options. But they depend not so much on the installation methods as on the colors, technical characteristics, and texture of the material. The slats can be positioned horizontally, vertically, with the boards offset, or in a checkerboard pattern. Laminated products are used in one color and of the same quality, or they try to attach boards using various combinations and transitions. That is, the fantasies of designers and customers are unlimited.
Vertical
Horizontal
Diagonal

To cover a vertical surface with a newfangled finish, it is not at all necessary to invite an expensive company or construction team. You can save a lot on labor costs, since attaching laminate to the wall with your own hands is quite accessible even to a novice master. Just watch a video on this topic, get acquainted with the technologies, choose your option, buy everything you need and stock up on tools. To work you will need the following tools:

  • a hammer drill or a powerful drill, preferably with a Pobedit drill bit, if the building is made of stone, brick or concrete;
  • screwdriver, jigsaw, hammer, pliers;
  • building level and plumb line, measuring tape;
  • pencil or marker;
  • usually a trowel or trowel;
  • spatulas of different sizes, including serrated;
  • a container for mixing glue and a corresponding attachment for a hammer drill or construction mixer.

Tools

This is a general list of tools that may be useful in your work. A more specific list is determined after making an exact decision on how to attach the laminate to the wall. Will it be necessary to install a frame, or glue the material directly onto the finishing plane?

Installation rules

Since the methods of cladding wall surfaces are strikingly different from one another, their production technology should be considered separately. But there is one general rule - materials are not used directly from the store. They must be kept for a certain period of time under future operating conditions.

Sheathing on a wooden frame is convenient in that a free gap is formed between the base structure and the finishing layer. The gap between the wall and the laminate can be used to hide communications, to create a sound barrier, or for other purposes. Measures for laying wires and insulation should be carried out at the stage of installing the frame; after installing the finishing panels, this cannot be done. The process looks like this:

  • if necessary, the wall is leveled with plaster mortar or large sinks, chips, and cracks are sealed;

Leveling the surface
  • Markings are made for placing the frame. The vertical beam is mounted at such a pitch that it is convenient to attach laminated boards to it. Typically this size is half the length of the board;
  • cut the timber according to the established dimensions and attach it vertically to the base, using a level. The outer bars require special attention; they determine the future plane. They must be mounted at an ideal level;
  • if the laminated planks are placed vertically, then the bars are mounted in the same order, only horizontally;
  • A horizontal beam must be fixed slightly above the floor plane, since laying the laminate on the wall begins from the bottom. The quality of further work will depend on the correct installation of the first row;

Installation on wooden sheathing
  • special holders must be installed on the horizontal bar, with the help of which it is convenient to install the first row of lamellas, with the groove up;
  • the following panels are connected to the lower ones by connecting the tongue into the groove and fixing them with brackets to the vertical beam;
  • for greater strength, the joints are treated with silicone sealant; it should be applied to the tenon of the inserted lamella.

The cladding is not done close to the surfaces of the floor and ceiling. Laying laminate on a wall without creating an expansion joint or gap means creating additional stress in the plane being finished. This may cause unnecessary deformation. The resulting gap is closed with decorative strips made of a material that matches the overall style of the room.

Wall&Water or the so-called “dry” method consists of installing a frame made of aluminum profiles. The panels are connected to each other and to the frame elements using silicone sealant and click elements. The distance from the wall to the cladding can also be used rationally.
Metal sheathing

In some cases, installation is carried out with clamps directly to the base, without lathing. This installation method is simple, but requires a flat surface, otherwise the strips of material will not be able to fit tightly to the base, and gaps between the wall and the laminate, in this case, are not allowed. Such a defect will distort the surface and spoil the overall impression.

Glue method - for this case, the thinnest material is usually chosen so as not to create unnecessary load on the surface to be finished. You can attach laminate to walls using either ready-to-use glue or dry mixtures. This method requires thorough surface preparation. The finished plane is marked according to a previously developed layout scheme. Horizontal and vertical lines are needed in order to accurately and evenly glue the boards.
Fastening laminate flooring with liquid nails

It is convenient to assemble small panels on the floor and lay them entirely on glue. To do this, apply the glue in an even layer to the plane of the wall using a notched trowel, and press the prepared boards or planks tightly. The slats are connected to each other with locks, which are additionally lubricated with silicone.

What to do if the wall is uneven

Laying laminate on a wall by gluing, if there are uneven surfaces, is simply impossible. First you need to either level the surface or choose a different installation method. You can level the walls in different ways: with plaster, starting putty, covering with sheets of plywood, plasterboard or OSB, following the appropriate technologies.

There is one nuance - since only some part of the plane is usually covered with laminated boards, the entire base will have to be prepared to maintain geometry and symmetry. Otherwise, she will “dance” and look, to put it mildly, ugly.

Therefore, before deciding how to lay the laminate, it is necessary to correctly assess the quality and condition of the surface to be covered. Incorrectly laid material cannot decorate the room.


Leveling walls with plaster

For which rooms is this finishing method not suitable?

In fact, there are no strict restrictions on the use of laminate flooring. But it is still worth approaching the issue of finishing wisely. Why waste money and effort on something that may not last long. Moreover, the choice of finishing materials and products is quite wide.

The material should not be used in rooms without heating and with high humidity. It is not suitable for cladding light partitions and surfaces made of soft materials. Of course, you can tile a balcony or loggia. But it is extremely undesirable to use glue there, and the lathing or aluminum frame will steal part of the already small area. There is only one way left - to plant the lamellas with clamps directly on the base. In any case, it is worth carefully thinking through and calculating the options for how to attach the laminate to the walls. And then decide which finish to use in this or that room. Now you know how to lay laminate on the wall surface or, if necessary, glue the laminate so that the coating lasts as long as possible.

Video

The video explains in detail how to lay laminate flooring on a wall.

Why mount laminate on the wall at all, since such material was originally intended as an alternative to wooden flooring?

Such a board very accurately copies the structure of various types of wood, which in their natural form would cost very indecent money.

And it is precisely for the similarity with natural material, as well as the qualities that flooring has: strength, durability, easy maintenance, that artificial wood dies have gained popularity among designers who use them as wall decoration.

This type of decor, such as decorating walls with laminate, allows you to create more original room designs, and the material can be mounted on the walls of rooms with various purposes, in the living room, hall, bedroom, and also in offices.
But when using a similar imitation of wood in wall decoration, you need to take into account the nuances. How to properly carry out such finishing?

What to consider when choosing laminate for walls

Laminate is designed as a flooring, which means its main task is to withstand significant loads. Manufacturers offer several options for strength classes, which are marked by numbers from 21 or more.

When purchasing material for wall cladding, you can save on the strength and thickness of specific models of laminated boards. Usually the lowest classes of 21-30 are enough, which will cost less.

The second factor in laminate selection is the type of lock. The main types of dies connected are: glue, tongue and groove, clamps and others. The fastening system is selected depending on the method of mounting on a plane. If you just glue the boards to the surface, then the type of lock is not important, any will do. But when installing on uneven walls, you need to first assemble the lathing and attach the laminate to it with click joints or clamps.

The third selection point is the color of the boards. Even one model may differ in shade in different batches. Therefore, you need to buy the material immediately in the required quantity.

By following these principles for choosing laminated boards for wall decoration, you can ultimately get exactly the result with all the ensuing positive properties of this design.

Pros and cons of finishing walls with laminate

pros

In addition to the above-mentioned advantages in terms of copying various types of wood, laminated boards have many other excellent properties that make it possible to make high-quality wall cladding.

Cheap and low-strength types of laminate will not wear out. After all, on the walls the material will not experience the same loads that it is exposed to on the floor as in a corridor or hall. Therefore, this design has a long service life without losing its qualities.

In addition to strength, laminate has other properties of flooring: resistance to moisture, ease of cleaning. Installing a laminate on a wall with your own hands is much easier than decorating it with Venetian plaster, or even painting, which requires meticulous leveling of surfaces with putties. The cost of simple models is much lower than many other types of finishing materials.

Minuses


Also, this type of wall decoration is not suitable if you have a limited budget for repairs; wallpaper is much cheaper.

Installing laminate on the wall

You can attach a laminated board to the wall surface using two methods:

  • Glue;
  • On the sheathing.

On a frame base, it is best to decorate the walls with laminate in the kitchen. Moisture and heat can peel off adhesive joints!

In case of significant differences and curvature, it is worthwhile to initially make the sheathing from wood, and if the surfaces are prepared and leveled, then it will be enough to place the elements on glue.

In confined spaces, for example when decorating the walls with laminate in the hallway, it is better not to use a frame.

Preparing walls for laminate

When using laminate to decorate walls, you need to carefully prepare the base. In areas of the walls where the laminate will be laid, you need to remove all the old finishing. In cases where the plaster is of poor quality and dilapidated, it is knocked down, exposing the main material of the supporting structures. It is best to make the plaster from scratch before attaching the laminate to the wall.

In the case where the surface is flat, it is cleaned of the old finish and primed.
When the walls have significant differences, they are prepared for the assembly of the frame base. To do this, any types of existing finishing materials are removed, and the surfaces themselves are covered with antiseptics. Before gluing the walls with laminate with your own hands, you need to carefully prime the surfaces. When the preparation is completed, prepare the tool and begin installation work.

Required Tools

  • Hammer or impact drill;
  • Screwdriver with jigsaw;
  • Level, tape measure, cord;
  • Spatulas, and a mixing attachment for a drill;
  • Laminate glue “liquid nails” or wood screws.

More precisely, the list of necessary devices is adjusted depending on the installation method.

Laying laminate on the wall

Adhesive laying of laminate on the wall

It is easy to glue laminate, but you need to carefully level all the surfaces on which the gluing will be carried out. The first step is to draw a single horizon near the floor below. To do this, you can use a flat wooden strip mounted on supports and checked according to the building level.

Begin laying from below, having previously assembled all the elements, on the contrary, on the floor.
Glue is applied to the back side of the laminated board around the perimeter of the die and in the middle using a gun.

The part is pressed to the surface, fixing it on the wall. Having applied the adhesive composition to the next board, it is locked with the previous one to the type of lock of the given material model. Subsequent rows are mounted in the same way, but observing the dressing in a checkerboard pattern. Depending on convenience, the laying of rows can be done according to the pattern from left to right, or vice versa.

Frame finishing method

Lathing is used in situations where the curvature of the walls does not allow them to be leveled. The frame is installed at some distance from the walls, and wiring can be laid under the finishing material.

A wooden beam with a cross-section of 40×40 mm or 50×50 mm is suitable for the supporting pillars of the base. When retreating some distance from the walls, you will also need guide rails with the same parameters, and direct hangers for the plasterboard frame.

The sheathing posts are mounted directly on the wall, but with preliminary drilling for dowels (fasteners - dowels and nails). If you are installing on guides, you must first nail them to the walls and ceiling. The distance between the frame slats is within 500-600 mm. If the laminate is installed vertically, then the slats are attached horizontally to the floor.
The timber is screwed to the wall, and if necessary, placed on guides and connected with mounting angles. Attention, when assembling the sheathing, be sure to check the position of the racks with a building level.
When installing laminate on a frame, it is worth placing a single horizon at the bottom with a stand 10 mm high and set level.

Typically, boards are secured with special clips - clamps. But for this you will need to install the appropriate metal guides into which the first row of dies snaps into place. The remaining rows are also mounted on clips, pre-fixed on the slats or inserted into the groove of the guide. This method presses the lock against the frame posts.

The search for original solutions leads to the use of finishing materials for purposes other than their intended purpose. A striking example of this approach is the finishing of wall surfaces with laminate. But this does not mean that it can be done any way you like. Be sure to take into account all the subtleties and nuances, only then the result will be positive.

Coating features

Finishing walls with laminate is unacceptable for kitchens, because under the influence of excess moisture and temperature fluctuations it will swell and warp. There is no way to avoid such influences; there is no protection against them. The same reasons do not allow us to recommend this coating for cellars, basements, and closets. But in hallways, where deviations from normal room conditions are rare and insignificant, such finishing is quite acceptable.

Covering a balcony with laminate is not a good idea. No matter how hard you try to equip the room, changing conditions from season to season will definitely affect the coating.

The strip of a click product can be adjusted accurately only with the help of a tool; no amount of effort is enough to do it manually. Most often, they apply a boss and hit it with a hammer, so the blows are evenly distributed in force.

You can also lay laminate on the wall using a rule (hook), erroneously called a clamp by some craftsmen. The indentation along the outer border is created by spacer wedges, and it is advisable to have a double set of such tools in case they fail. It is most reliable to cover a wall with laminate using lathing; this will help achieve high strength, enhance sound insulation and thermal insulation. But please note that the design will inevitably be limited. The adhesive method only helps to form an original design.

Laminate flooring is very durable (it lasts so long that you won’t see any wear and tear and will rather just want to change your surroundings). At the same time, the coating is completely safe and can be disposed of in the simplest way. Decorating walls with laminate is significantly more economical than using wood, and even lining or MDF, but is not inferior to them in external elegance. There are a lot of textures and colors mastered by technologists, and they will fit into any interior. An important factor is easy care. Only occasionally will you need to rub the wall with polish.

What to do if the walls are uneven?

First of all, you need to carefully check whether they are really uneven. Take a lath, the size of which is equal to the height of the wall without taking into account the baseboard. Important: before starting the test measurement, the plaster layer and trims should be removed so that they do not distort the result. The rail is moved vertically, the slightest bulges and dips are marked with a pencil. Protruding parts must be scraped off or knocked down with a chisel.

The holes are filled with putty and rubbed over. Such simple methods will allow you to strengthen even the most uneven and chaotic wall. Assessing how smooth the control rail itself is is also not particularly difficult. Attach it to the wall and trace the outline with a pencil, turn it 180 degrees and attach the ends of the strip to the end points of the line. If both lines completely coincide, you can safely use this tool in your work. But the slightest deflection or bend indicates that you need a different rail (which, of course, is checked in the same way).

How and with what to fasten?

The adhesive laminate must be attached to flat surfaces. Liquid nails or construction silicone are used to hold it in place. The wrong side of the panel is covered with glue in the form of a zigzag, after laying the strip, coat the end with the same glue, and proceed to the next chain. If adhesive liquid appears at the boundaries of blocks and lines, it is immediately removed with a soft cloth made of natural fabric soaked in culinary acetic acid.

Laminate that is installed with glue cannot be fixed to the sheathing; it has too little contact strip with the support.

The tongue and groove type of laminate is equipped with a lock of the same name. This coating can be laid out without smearing the tongue with adhesives. Therefore, the borders of individual boards will not be stained with adhesive. If you don’t want to glue at all, you can nail the product to the surface in the manner of a regular lining. It is attached to a wood lattice using furniture nails or gluers (the second option is also suitable for an iron base).

For wall laying, you can also use click format laminate - this is an improved version of tongue and groove covering. The cut of the ridge is pear-shaped, as is the structure of the channels. The connecting structures push the ridge lobe of the lock into the niche, having first tilted the block. Then they twist the product towards the base and at the same time press lightly, due to which the lock closes. The click type of laminate is good for its high hardness.

Click coated gluers are not compatible. If you use them, you will not be able to latch the lock. But it is quite possible to glue the block onto a wooden sheathing yourself.

Methods

You can attach the laminate to the walls either with glue and liquid nails (but you will need to thoroughly level the base and prime it), or using slatted lathing (but it will take up some of the space, so it is not recommended in small rooms). If you decide to nail the covering to the entire wall or to its upper part, work begins from the ceiling to the floor; Decoration of the lower half of the walls is carried out from the floor upward. To ensure that the planks are firmly fixed, check their correct installation using a building level. When there are locks in the panels, they should be glued like this: first coat the surface with glue, then connect them into a lock, and only then attach them to the wall.

If you think that glue alone is not enough, additional reinforcement of the structure with nails or staples is acceptable. The tongue and groove board is attached to the sheathing with clamps at the top and bottom.

Additional items

The choice of items to strengthen and hold the structure is extremely important. The most common seemingly ordinary clamps are available in a wide range, and if you purchase the wrong product, you will devalue all your work. The thicker the panel that needs to be held, the larger the diameter of the tongue should be. Compared to other types of mechanical fasteners, clamps have the advantage of having a low risk of panels splitting. They are great even in rooms with significant humidity. A bracket with a jagged protrusion is driven into the board and held in place with self-tapping screws; a bracket with a flat protrusion will help press the protruding part of the click lock against the wall or sheathing.

When choosing liquid nails, be sure to check their area of ​​application. They are both universal and intended for interior work. Very dense laminate cannot be attached to walls, therefore there is no point in using liquid nails to hold heavy objects. Acrylic composition cannot be used at subzero temperatures.

Covering the end of the laminate on the wall is not so easy, but this task can be solved. According to experts, profiles in the shape of the letter P, which are made from a variety of materials, will help - there are aluminum, plastic, and even wood. As an option, you can purchase a flexible rubber threshold. All these blocks can be attached using the same liquid nails or glue-sealant. Sometimes they also offer edge tapes, but any method should not disturb the color harmony of the canvas.

A separate topic is guides for wall mounting of laminate; the step between them should not be more than 0.6 meters.

How to lay it?

Laminate flooring swells as it becomes wetter. And therefore, no matter what installation method you choose, be sure to leave a gap of 1.5-2 centimeters from the corner along the entire perimeter. Spacer wedges on the walls can help with this, but there is a much better solution. Completely flat boards or slats of the required thickness are placed below, which are wrapped in thin plastic film. And on the sides you can safely use wedges, where they will not be squeezed out by the weight of the sheathing.

Laying the canvases should begin from the far left corners, it is carried out as the clock progresses. Left-handers will be more comfortable working on the right against the clock. Installation of laminate flooring is allowed both vertically (from left to right) and horizontally, with the second method being preferable. Solid strips, contrary to imaginary evidence, are by no means simpler or cheaper. Joints running along the same line must be covered with plinths attached to mounting nails.

The technology involves drilling mounting holes directly through panel joints. And even in the case when the wall is lined with continuous strips along its length, you will have to install skirting boards every 170 centimeters or even more often. Continuous panels support each other only in one direction, and if there is no additional reinforcement, the cladding can fold.

No matter how well you try to install the covering, no matter how high-quality nails, gluers and glue you use, these holding elements may no longer perform their function. Excessive proximity will create increased mechanical stress.

It is best to lay the laminate using the comb method: cut exactly in the middle as many strips as would fit on half of the horizontal rows. When ten lines can be laid in height, five strips are required to cut. Installation proceeds alternately: a solid part, then cut, again a whole block. This solution will make the load on the fasteners as uniform as possible.

In some cases, it will be more interesting to lay out the laminate in a diagonal way; then they take it in two different colors. But if you do not have solid experience in working with such coating or special training, it is not recommended to take on diagonal laying. It is much easier to lay the covering vertically on the glue: you will, of course, have to clean and level the wall, but you will not have to pay for the sheathing elements. You can limit yourself to panels of only two types (long and complementary).

To install laminate flooring yourself, be sure to buy an electric jigsaw; it will help you cut the panels as accurately as possible, and in the future it will be useful for other work. You will also need consumable files, a hammer for tamping, a short (up to 40 cm) ruler and square, a tape measure, limiting wedges, a block for tamping, a corner cutter, a saw, a drill and a hammer drill. To laminate a wall that was previously wallpapered or painted, remove the coating using a spatula or a hammer drill with an attachment. The final removal of irregularities is achieved with sandpaper.

Having decided to create a backlit wall, immediately lay all the cables, draw up a diagram with their placement and output (connection) points so as not to get confused in the future.

Important nuances

Laminate flooring is not only beautiful and aesthetically pleasing, it allows you to seal cracks on balconies and loggias. With proper selection, the coating will last you at least a decade and a half.

Always take into account the possible mechanical stress and the risk of abrasion. If you have to frequently clean the walls or have cats in the house, too thin plasterboard coverings will be unacceptable.

Fitting and trimming will inevitably increase the consumption of material, therefore the resulting overall figures for the need for it can be safely increased by 10%, then the necessary reserve will be created. As already mentioned, the indentation along the perimeter should be 1.5-2 cm, it is set on the sides with spacer wedges, and at the bottom with a special board or plank. Always use a boss for tamping; if you hit it directly with a hammer without it, you can create crooked cracks. Using a rule (hook), you can attach the last row in the corners; to do this, knock with a hammer or hand on the surface of the “flag”.

When creating the sheathing, it is recommended to use slats of 3 centimeters, the distance between the screws should not exceed 40 millimeters. The slats themselves should go at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the panels, so first outline what and how exactly will be installed.

The exact distance separating the edge of the laminate from the wall border is determined individually, taking into account a number of nuances. If you cannot find this distance, you should seek help from professionals.

When using coating, it is enough to never deviate from these rules in order to avoid many serious problems.

Design options

Having laid out the bottom strip 0.6-0.8 meters long from additional panels, then the corridor wall can be sheathed with the main panels up to the ceiling. The horizontally facing connection is closed onto the plinth. Vertically directed joints at a certain interval are fastened with parts of the same product, and it is launched further along the laminate-covered top. This creates the romance of the Middle Ages, appropriate both in the bedroom and in the living room. Fluorescent lamps can replace torches.

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