Laminate can be classified as a relatively new finishing material, widely used for finishing floors.
The breadth of design thought does not limit its use to such a narrow range.
Increasingly, you can find laminate finishes on vertical surfaces and even ceilings.
Today we’ll talk about how to attach laminate flooring to a wall at home.
Laminate flooring is a simple construction set for adults, consisting of panels of equal size.
The connection of individual parts of the coating is carried out using a tongue-and-groove system, the elements of which are made on all edges of the products.
As a rule, laminate flooring does not require additional fastening.
It is enough just to carefully connect the parts into a common fabric and fix it along the walls with plinths.
Its widespread distribution, and it is used in residential premises, offices, and some public buildings, is due to its excellent performance qualities. These include:
- Wear resistance, consisting of high resistance to mechanical stress. According to this indicator, the material is divided into separate classes.
- Antistatic due to the materials used for manufacturing and process technology. Thanks to this indicator, the presence of dust accumulations on the coating is minimal.
- Good resistance to waterlogging. There are types of moisture- and water-resistant panels that work in wet areas of the kitchen, bathroom, and even baths and saunas. Standard types can withstand cleaning well using various special cleaning compounds, which are widely available and have a relatively low cost.
The use of wall panels is advisable in many cases. They can easily level a vertical surface with minimal effort and money.
Utilities or a layer of internal insulation made of mineral wool or expanded polystyrene are often hidden behind a laminate sheet.
The use of panels of the same pattern and texture on the floor and walls allows you to visually expand the interior space, which is convenient for our small-sized apartments.
Thus, we got acquainted with the features of laminate, its properties and the possibility of using it for wall decoration.
Methods for attaching laminate panels to the wall
Typically, when laying laminate flooring, the manufacturer does not recommend attaching the panels to the base, allowing the coating to move during deformation when absorbing moisture and evaporating it. This option is not acceptable for the wall installation method.
For reliability, it is necessary to fix each part on a supporting surface.
The first installation option involves the use of various adhesives. They must be selected for each specific condition - one type for wet rooms, another for less humid ones. The technology for performing this installation will be discussed below.
The second method involves fastening the laminate to the wall using clamps - special steel fasteners that can grab tongue-and-groove parts made of MDF or wood and press them to the base.
They are used when installing such types of coatings as wooden lining, MDF panels and laminate. Using clamps, it is possible to install the listed elements not only on walls, but also on the ceiling.
Metal brackets for fastening the laminate can be attached to walls pre-leveled with sheet wood materials or to a sheathing made of bars. Installing them on plastered surfaces is difficult, as this will require drilling a large number of holes and installing dowel nails or plastic dowels with self-tapping screws.
Considering the advantages and disadvantages of each individual method of attaching laminate to walls, it is better to combine them, which will allow you to obtain the highest possible quality of work performed and prevent unpleasant consequences in the form of partial or complete destruction of the coating.
Thus, we have examined the main fastenings of laminate on walls, indicating their advantages, disadvantages and the possibility of arrangement.
Wall finishing with laminate. Preparing the basis for work
Laminate coating has one significant drawback.
High quality can only be achieved if there are no large differences in elevation.
Ideally, they should not exceed three millimeters, that is, the wall should have good flatness.
To prepare the surface of a vertical structure under a laminate, two main leveling methods can be used.
The first involves applying sand-cement or gypsum plaster followed by filling the surface, the second involves leveling with plywood sheets.
Plastering a wall
If the wall has large peelings of the old wall, it is recommended to clean it down to the base material - bricks, blocks, etc. Any impact tool or small pickaxe will do for this purpose. All peeling parts of the plaster layer must be removed and the surface cleaned.
After this, new plastering can be done. To obtain a smooth, flat wall, you cannot do without special plaster beacons, mounted vertically on the wall, in small portions of the finished product in increments of 1-1.5 meters.
First, attach the outer guides, checking the quality of installation by level. Then, after the solution has hardened, a strong nylon cord is pulled between them several times, creating a plane to control the installation of other beacons.
Using ready-made beacons, it is not difficult to plaster a wall even without sufficient work experience. They use a long aluminum lath-rule, which is moved from bottom to top, distributing the previously applied plaster composition. The beacons can be removed after processing the entire wall or left.
After the several days required for the plaster to completely harden, the base is finally leveled using putty - a ready-made composition or a composition prepared on site from a dry mixture containing materials with a fine fraction. Distribute it over the wall using a wide metal spatula.
Leveling with artificial wood materials
Leveling with artificial wood sheets is easier and faster. These include the following:
- Plywood is a layered wood material with high environmental properties, moisture resistance and strength. Perfectly accepts all known types of metal fasteners and can be processed with hand and mechanical tools.
- OSB – oriented strand board – is a new generation material that differs from the previous one in manufacturing technology and has a looser structure. As a flat base it perfectly performs its functions, therefore it is used when installing partitions, interior and exterior decoration.
- Chipboard - chipboard - is the least suitable of all the listed materials for indoor use, since the manufacturing technology involves the use of large quantities of artificial phenol-formaldehyde resins, which during operation release toxic phenols into the environment. The environmental friendliness of the material is partially improved by lamination on planes with artificial decorative films.
Regardless of the material you choose, to level the walls you will need an electric drill with an impact mechanism, 6 mm drills for wood and concrete, a set of M6 plastic dowels with self-tapping screws 40-60 mm long.
A sheet of material with pre-drilled rows of holes is applied to the wall and recesses are drilled in place, using it as a template. Then plastic dowels are inserted, pressing them, if necessary, with light blows of a hammer, and the sheets are secured by screwing them in with screws.
Installing a wooden frame
In the case where, together with laminate finishing, it is planned to lay hidden utility lines or insulate the wall being finished, we recommend making a wooden frame from softwood bars with a cross-section of 30x30 mm. To do this you need to prepare:
- sawn or planed bars in sufficient quantity, which can only be calculated based on the specific parameters of the wall
- wood screws 30 and 60 mm long
- dowel-nails 70 mm long or plastic dowels M6 or M8 with self-tapping screws 60 mm long
- wood hacksaw, circular or miter saw for cutting lumber
- impact drill or hammer drill
- screwdriver
The lathing manufacturing technology is as follows.
We attach pre-drilled and sawn-to-length bars to the wall with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails in strips parallel to the floor.
The installation step of the sheathing must correspond to the laminate panels so that their edge falls in the middle of the lumber.
This value can vary for individual types from 19 to 40 cm, so before starting work it is necessary to purchase finishing material and install bars to a specific size.
There are many ways to prepare walls for laminate installation. Some of them can be done on your own, others can only be done by professionals.
We finish the wall with laminate
Before installing the panels on the wall, you need to decide on their direction. It can be horizontal (parallel to the floor), vertical (perpendicular to the floor) and diagonal (at an angle to the lower plane).
Depending on the intended location, the sheathing should also be installed on the wall if it is used.
Next, we determine the most convenient way to attach the panels. The choice of option depends on the preliminary preparation of the base and its quality (flatness, strength, etc.). Depending on the chosen option, we purchase one or another type of fastener in the required quantity.
For example, to determine the number of clamps, you need to determine the number of laminate panels expected to be installed and multiply this number by 4.
Installation of laminate flooring with glue
When choosing an adhesive method for attaching panels, you must purchase high-quality glue. The most suitable option in terms of connection strength and cost are the so-called liquid nails, which are a group of adhesives for a large range of materials.
When purchasing one or another option, pay attention to the possibility of gluing laminate or MDF.
Carefully open the finishing material that has been pre-seasoned for 1-2 days and lay out the panels. Make sure that they all have the same color and texture, and that the elements of the tongue-and-groove system are not damaged. It is more convenient to start installation from the lower left corner of the wall (if you are right-handed).
Apply adhesive to the back of the panel in separate spots or large zigzags. Place the panel against the wall and press it firmly into place.
We place the next part to the right of the previous one. We also apply glue to it.
To fix it in the lock, it is recommended to insert the edges into each other, position the right panel at an angle of about 20-25 degrees, and gently press to fix it in place. If the length of the wall allows and the presence of an assistant, you can install the covering on the wall in another way.
A linen of laminated parts is carefully assembled on the floor using locks. For additional fixation, you can glue with transparent glue, applying it to the grooves.
Glue is applied to the back of the tape or to the wall and the entire strip is pressed to the installation site. This method will be convenient when installing subsequent rows up to the ceiling or to the level required by the design project. This is how laminate flooring is mounted on a wall without a frame.
Installation of laminate on sheet metal sheathing
A more reliable method is to attach a laminated coating to walls previously lined with plywood or OSB sheets. In this case, you can successfully combine the adhesive and mechanical methods.
Keep the purchased packages in the room where they will be installed for a couple of days. This will help the material adapt.
We install the panels similarly to the previous method from the lower left corner of the wall. In this case, there is no need to install the laminate on the wall with glue and remove it.
The panel strips are installed immediately. In this case, it is convenient to apply the glue to the wall within the width of the future coating strip.
On the upper longitudinal edges of the panels, slightly smooth out the mounting seam for better installation of the clamps. It is better to choose them with a straight edge, without teeth, to avoid destruction of the panel material during fastening.
It is convenient to put the clamps on the tape parts installed in the groove. The fasteners have small holes for fixing. Through them, the clamps are nailed to the base with No. 20 nails or steel clips using a stapler.
This method is also convenient in the case of diagonal installation of laminate on walls. Its disadvantage is the large number of cuts of the blades at the desired angle, which leads to an increase in the duration of the work, as well as greater material consumption than with the linear method.
You can reduce financial costs by purchasing material with the lowest wear resistance class, 21. After all, the coating on the wall will not experience the same loads as on the floor.
We install laminate on a wall with lathing
The laminate is attached to a lathing made of wooden blocks pre-fabricated using the technology described above exclusively using clamps. To do this, the frame parts must be centered at the junction of the panels.
Manufacturers do not recommend making sheathing from metal profiles used for drywall, since fastening the clamps with self-tapping screws to steel is less reliable and durable.
When installing the sheathing, do not forget to install one row of bars near the floor and ceiling. This will ensure the necessary installation strength. Those places where installing clamps will be problematic can be nailed to the sheathing with the same nails 20 mm long. Afterwards, areas near the floor and ceiling are usually covered with floor and ceiling plinths.
Various fastening methods are suitable for certain conditions, the availability of materials and the experience of the craftsman. The best option is a combination of different methods.
You can watch the video about installing laminate on walls:
The popular laminate flooring is now used for decorative wall decoration in rooms. Often this is done not only for aesthetic, but also functional reasons.
Laminate has a number of advantages over MDF panels, lining and:
- Relatively inexpensive material. Since the walls bear minimal load, you can purchase the thinnest laminate with a low wear resistance class. The price for such a laminate starts from an average of 150 rubles/sq.m.
- Large selection of colors and textures (much more than MDF panels and parquet).
- A simple process of laying laminate on the wall and further maintenance.
- Antistatic – laminate practically does not attract dust.
Methods for attaching laminate to the wall
Today, there are two main methods of attaching laminate to walls:
- Using special glue;
- Frame method (using wooden sheathing). You can read about a plasterboard frame.
Video instruction
How to attach laminate flooring to a wall using glue
Particular attention should be paid here choosing the glue itself. Because laminate panels are subject to fluctuations in temperature and humidity, they may shrink or expand in size. This feature can eventually break the glued joint, and the panels themselves will simply fall off the walls.
The most suitable glue in this case is “Liquid Nails” (trademark “Moment”). You can use universal glue of this type, but it is better to give preference to glue intended for attaching panels (the bottom of the bottle of such glue is painted green).
The cost of glue, both universal and for panels, averages 130 rubles/piece.
Before installing the laminate, the wall should be primed.
As for the surface on which you plan to mount the laminate, ideally it should be level(deviations no more than 3mm). If there are significant differences in level, then the wall should be plastered, or a frame fastening method should be used (you can read about the types of fastening for profiles and drywall). Before installing the laminate, the wall should be primed. You can use a water-dispersion primer with deep penetration (from 200 rubles/5 liter canister). If the wall is painted, then it is better to use the “concrete contact” primer - for smooth and poorly absorbent surfaces (from 270 rub./5 kg).
Laminate installation process:
Fastening the laminate using the frame method
The most ideal material for the frame is wood.
The ideal frame material is wood.
A metal frame is not entirely suitable for this case (read a good article about). The laminate must be secured to the metal with self-tapping screws. They gradually become loose, and the surface of the wall will rattle. Over time, this will damage the seams and the laminate will become unusable.
Before making the frame, we determine the direction of the laminate panels. For a horizontal direction, the lathing will be installed vertically, and for a vertical direction, respectively, horizontally. The pitch of the supporting bars is equal to half the length of the panel.
For the sheathing, bars with a cross-section of 30*30mm and a length of 3m are suitable. The average cost of such timber is 30 rubles/piece.
The outermost bars should be installed first. They are fundamental - here it is necessary to maintain an ideal level. Next, we stretch the threads between the outer bars. Intermediate bars are attached relative to the contact of the guide threads.
After installing the frame, do not forget to lay hidden communications. If the installation of panels is used to insulate the wall, then we lay insulation between the cells of the frame.
Now you can install the panels themselves. You can attach them to the frame using Kleimers– special brackets for installing panels. The staples are inserted into the groove of the panel and nailed to the beam with a stapler. They will firmly hold the laminate to the frame without interfering with the panels being securely connected to each other. This mount is movable, which is very important when working with laminate. The cost of packing clamps is approximately 50-60 rubles/pack. (100 pieces.).
In parallel with clamps, you can also use the adhesive method.
An example of calculating material for a room of 20 sq.m (5m*4m)
Since the walls are a flat surface, the calculation of the required material is quite simple - the width is multiplied by the height. For a room of 20 square meters and a height of 2.5 m it will look like this:
S= 5m*2.5m*2+4m*2.5*2=25sq.m+20sq.m=45sq.m (this is the surface area of the walls excluding door and window openings).
Since 10% is usually added to the resulting area to adjust the panels and for trimming, it makes no sense to subtract the area of the door and window openings.
The resulting 45 sq.m can be considered the final figure, taking into account the premium.
To attach laminate flooring to walls in a room of 20 square meters, you will need about 6-8 bottles of liquid nails.
To calculate the number of bars for sheathing It is necessary to divide the length of the walls by the distance between the beams:
5m/1.23m (with a laminate board length of 1.26m in our case) = 4.065
Round up = 5
Multiply by 2 walls = 10
4m/1.23 = 3.25
Round up = 4
Multiply by 2 walls = 8
A total of 18 vertical beams are obtained.
Since the height of a standard beam = 3 m, then with our height of 2.5 m, one beam is quite enough for one vertical guide. Taking into account the trimming and deduction of the window and door opening, it makes no sense to make an additional allowance.
Number of required clamps:
about 4 packs. 100 pcs.
Amount of primer for wall treatment:
1 canister 5 l with a consumption of 100 ml per 1 sq.m.
Material cost calculation:
- Laminate: 45 sq.m*150 rubles (minimum cost of laminate) = 6750 rubles.
- Liquid nails: 8 pcs * 130 rub. = 1040 rub.
- Primer: 1k.*200 rub. = 200 rub.
- Beam: 18 pieces * 30 rub. = 540 rub.
- Claymers: 4 pack. * 60 rub. = 240 rub.
Total: 7990 rub. with the adhesive fastening method.
Total: 7730 rub. with the frame fastening method.
It will take at least a few days to lay laminate on the walls of a 20 sq.m room. First, you need to let the walls dry (read how to make plasterboard walls). Secondly, if the glue method is used, then you should not install too many panels in one day - it is better to wait until the lower ones set to avoid them falling off. If the laminate is attached to the sheathing, then the construction of the sheathing itself is also not a quick task, even for the most experienced craftsmen. However, with an organized approach, the work can be completed in 3 to 5 days.
Thus, attaching laminate flooring to the wall is not only an unusual solution, but also a fairly simple way to decorate the interior, for example, in the kitchen, on the balcony, in the bathroom, in the hallway, in the living room or in the bedroom.
Attaching laminate flooring to the wall is not only an unusual solution, but also a fairly simple way to decorate the interior, for example in the kitchen, on the balcony, in the bathroom, in the hallway, in the living room or in the bedroom.
The main thing is to know what you can use to attach the panels, and strictly follow the sequence of actions.
There are many varieties of laminated wall panels. They are made from different materials and different formats, and auxiliary profiles are produced for them. But no less popular for wall decoration is laminate, designed as a floor covering. Although because of this, its installation follows different rules.
Laminate differences
For the most part, interlocking laminate flooring is not intended for rigid attachment to the base. This is a floating type of floor, the main feature of which is the reliable fixation of the floorboards to each other. Typically, a rigid grip is provided by an end-lock connection with a complex snap profile. Of course, you can also find an adhesive connection, but rarely.
Finishing with wall panels requires the opposite - rigid fastening to the base, and the profiled end comes as an additional option, providing a hidden type of installation.
The most common type of slatted panels is lining with a regular tongue-and-groove end. Therefore, laminate is often mounted to the walls as well - through a groove, fixing it to the sheathing with fasteners. But this is not the only type of installation.
Mounting methods
There are three ways to fix the laminate to the wall:
- using glue;
- nails through the bottom wall of the tenon to the sheathing beam;
- with clamps to the sheathing.
Glue mount
Laminate flooring can essentially be considered a type of fiberboard, so to attach it, a water-free adhesive is required. This is especially important if the wall surface is leveled using gypsum board or plywood - with prolonged contact with a humid environment, either the base or the panels themselves may swell and “deteriorate.”
You can use parquet adhesive, but not dispersion, but solvent-based or two-component.
The wall surface should be almost perfect. While minor unevenness in the subfloor can be compensated for with a substrate, this is not possible for a wall. The glue is quite expensive, it is applied in a thin layer, so an uneven wall surface will lead to a decrease in the adhesion area, which will affect the reliability of the fastening.
After leveling the wall (plaster, putty, drywall), it must be primed and dried.
Then lines are drawn onto the surface using a level, which will be used as a guide during the installation of the laminate.
The most common laying pattern is to offset adjacent rows by half the length of the plank.
The first row starts from half. Coat its reverse surface and the contact spot on the wall. Press for a short time, then “tear off” and let the glue dry, then press again until initial setting. In principle, this is a technology for working with quick-drying adhesives, which may differ in the exposure time at each stage. In this algorithm, the first row of laminate is glued, and then all the rest.
The second row starts with a whole panel, and the third again with a half. The technique for connecting panels between rows depends on the type of laminate lock.
The advantage of this installation method is minimal loss of useful volume.
There are more disadvantages: significant labor intensity, high consumption of expensive glue, low environmental friendliness of quick-drying waterless adhesives. In addition, walls whose surface has been leveled with plaster and putty may not have sufficient strength of the top layer to support the weight of the laminate.
Fastening on the sheathing
Installing the laminate to the wall on the sheathing has the same sequence of operations as when finishing with clapboard:
- Choose the laying direction: vertical, horizontal, diagonal.
- Markings are made perpendicular to the direction of laying for attaching the sheathing. Its pitch should ensure fastening of the laminate at at least three points - along the edges and in the middle. Therefore, the axial distance between adjacent rows of sheathing must be fixed: 1/2 or 1/3 of the length (an exception can only be for the lower and upper rows of sheathing). Reducing the offset step of the laying pattern to 1/4, which is practiced for flooring, is technically impractical, given the width of the lathing.
- For the sheathing, choose a wooden block with a width of at least 40 mm, since the distance from the edge of the short end of the laminate strip to the attachment point must be at least 15 mm. The joints of the laminate planks in each row should be in the middle of the sheathing bar.
- In the lower and upper rows of the sheathing, you can use a block of smaller width. The installation of the row should begin and end not in the center of the bar, but at its edge.
- The sheathing bars are attached to the wall in accordance with the markings, maintaining the general level of the surface.
An adhesive laminate with a smooth tongue-and-groove profile is mounted to the sheathing in the same way as the lining: with a thin nail through the bottom wall of the groove or using clamps.
To attach the interlocking laminate to the sheathing, clamps are usually used, but under them you will have to:
- for a Click lock, trim the profile of the bottom wall of the lock groove at the attachment point;
- for the Lock lock, cut the lower part of the tenon of the inserted panel at the attachment point.
Disadvantages of laminate as a finishing material for walls
Among all types of wood-based finishing materials, laminate is one of the most expensive (only parquet boards and parquet are more expensive). Previously, it would have been possible to save on a class, but classes below 31 are no longer available. The cheapest domestically produced laminate with a thickness of 6-8 mm will cost about 400 rubles. per sq. meter. Therefore, there is no need to talk about the availability of this type of finishing.
The high wear resistance of the laminate, the use of HDF in the load-bearing layer and the complex profile of the interlocking connection are all redundant qualities for wall panels that will not “work” and will not affect the durability of the finish.
Installing laminate on walls is more difficult than wall panels. Even when using sheathing, more materials, fasteners and time will be required.
The only thing that justifies the money and effort spent is its high decorative properties and the ability to create a harmonious interior. Moreover, it is not necessary to cover all the walls (or the entire wall) with laminate - usually it is enough to select a separate zone.
Wall finishing is carried out with a variety of finishing materials, including floor coverings.
One option is to use (laminated flooring).
But its use for decorating walls is hampered by a stereotype rooted in the human mind - “how to lay laminate on a wall, it is laid on a horizontal surface.”
Laminate flooring - the colloquial name, laminate, is a decorative finishing material. Initially it was conceived specifically for finishing the floor, but thanks to its technical and aesthetic properties, it began to be increasingly used for decorating other surfaces, including walls.
Laminate on walls in interior design
The use of flooring for finishing vertical surfaces became possible due to several factors:
- High mechanical strength and a greater degree of wear resistance of the working surface, compared to another decorative wood product - MDF panels (fine wood fraction). Although externally similar, the latter material has lower density and, accordingly, strength.
- A wide range of colors and a variety of patterns, laminate flooring is available in several styles and types.
- Reducing the cost gap between MDF and laminate.
How to choose a laminate
When selecting a laminated coating, in addition to answering the question: “how to put laminate on a wall,” you need to decide on a number of other problems. What functions, besides decorative ones, will the coating perform:
- creating a smooth surface instead of the old, uneven one
- protecting the wall from mechanical damage
- execution of a new interior of the premises
Choose the appropriate laminate size and color.
Functions of decorative coating
In residential premises, laminate is mounted on the wall to solve two problems:
- leveling an uneven surface without the use of additional operations - removing the old coating, plastering, etc.
- creating a new unusual
In addition to the possible goals stated above, the decoration of office premises pursues another solution - protecting the surface of the walls from damage by chairs or other factors. This is due to the fact that laminate has an important characteristic - wear resistance class (degree of abrasion). For housing stock this figure is not significant.
Laminate size
Products are available in several sizes and specific shapes. The most common form is a small board with dimensions 1100–1400 x 140–200 mm (length, width). Less common is a board width of 400 mm. The thickness of modern models is in the range of 6–14 mm. There are laminate offers in the form of a flat square with dimensions of 400–650 x 400–650 mm
In addition to appearance and size, the above products will differ slightly from each other in technology. Hence the conclusion that the determining factor when choosing is not the size, but the external design of the coating.
Laminate cost
In addition to the cost of remuneration for the work of craftsmen, if the topic “how to lay laminate on a wall with your own hands” does not concern you, then the determining factor is the price of decorative products. It depends:
- on the thickness and size of products
- technical characteristics
- product quality (well-known brand or artisanal)
- design - color, structure, presence of chamfers and other similar properties
For direct application of laminate flooring, the first three factors must be taken into account, and then the design. For wall decoration, on the contrary, first the decor, then everything else.
Types of laminate
Since the invention and introduction into production of laminated coatings, three main types have been developed:
- Adhesive - the laminate was assembled and installed using adhesives.
- A tongue and groove joint, also known as a tongue-and-groove joint, is also known as a Lock type connection. The groove and tenon of the boards being connected have symmetrically made protrusions and depressions, due to which the mating parts are fixed.
- Locking - products are equipped with a Click type lock. This name is due to the fact that when assembled, a clicking sound is heard, reminiscent of a “click”.
The first two types of coating are not produced today - almost all modern laminate is equipped with modifications of the Click type lock.
DIY styling
Installing laminate on a wall is technologically similar to installing MDF panels.
But there are some peculiarities.
This is due to the fact that the flooring is laid using a “floating” method.
This method does not involve a single point of attachment to the base - by the way, this is where the colloquial name arose - “breathing floor”.
The use of this type of laminate installation is explained by the properties of the material from which it is made.
Recycled products retain almost all characteristics:
- ability to absorb moisture contained in the environment
- change your linear and volumetric dimensions
Therefore, if there are several points of rigid fixation, the floor covering will warp and swell. To prevent such unpleasant phenomena from occurring, it is always necessary to provide for freedom of movement in the main plane.
To do this, between the main field of the floor covering and the side surfaces of the room, temperature anti-deformation gaps of 5–15 mm in size are arranged.
There are two main installation methods:
- fixing to lathing
- fastening with adhesive mixtures
Tools and materials
Depending on the chosen installation method, you will need:
- fine-tooth hacksaw or jigsaw - used for working with wood and laminate
- hammer drill or impact drill, wood drills and drills
- furniture stapler and hardened staples
- small nail puller, hammer, set of screwdrivers, pliers
- construction nails 1.2–1.4 x 16–20 mm (diameter, length) with a small head
- glue from the “nails” series, silicone sealant, professional mounting foam
Before starting work, it is necessary to complete a preliminary design in which the location of the laminate dies will be drawn.
Installation on lathing
It is advisable to install a decorative coating on the sheathing when the wall surface is uneven.
This choice is due to the fact that the wooden strip will help create a flat mounting plane.
First, the sheathing is installed.
Material – well-dried wooden slats with a cross-section of 10–20 x 30–50 mm (height, width).
The length of the bars is within 2–3 meters; a larger size will complicate the work (an assistant will be needed).
The pitch between adjacent slats, along the axis of the products, is selected so that the ends of the mating laminate dies can fit on them.
Laminate flooring is being installed. The beginning of the movement is determined by the design of the lock - hence, the movement can occur from the lower right or left. Fixation is carried out:
- carnations - the caps are recessed into the body of the laminate
- furniture staples - the staples should not protrude above the surface of the lock
- metal clips - at the attachment points it is necessary to cut off the protruding collar of the lock; In addition, the tongue of the plate must extend onto the receiving surface of the locking cavity by 2–5 mm; if this is not observed, difficulties will arise with joining, and the edges of the laminate will protrude above each other
The first two types of fastening are advisable to use when the linear dimensions of the laminated coating area do not exceed 3 meters. For larger values, fixation with clips is used. This is due to the properties of the laminated coating to change its dimensions.
Laying laminate flooring with glue
This method is used in the following cases:
- the base material has good adhesion to adhesives
- the surface meets the manufacturer’s requirements for the base, that is, it must be smooth, durable, and rigid
If the surface is uneven and it is not possible to install sheathing, then it makes sense to pre-mount plywood, drywall or other sheet materials on the wall.
In addition to correcting the surface, such materials have good adhesive properties to most adhesives.
Another option for solving the problem of how to lay laminate on an uneven wall is to use polyurethane foam.
It has excellent adhesive characteristics and tends to partially compensate for small movements of the laminate associated with changes in its size.
To prevent the foam from expanding excessively, it is necessary to use a professional composition used for installation or doors.
One of the characteristics is the ability to harden the surface within 10 minutes and fully set after 20-30 minutes.
Installation of decor is carried out in a vertical, horizontal or diagonal direction. The adhesive composition is applied to the back side of the product in dots, strokes or in the form of a snake.
When decorating a room, in addition to choosing the interior, selecting materials and tools, you need to solve the problem of how to lay laminate on the wall with your own hands.
The surface must be primed with an acrylic compound. It is advisable to use glue of the “liquid nails” type for an area of up to 15 m², in other cases - silicone sealant, but the process time will increase by 30–50%.
So, taking into account the above information, having a sketch of the application of a decorative coating in hand, and with diligence, you can give the room a unique individual look using laminate.
How to install laminate on walls - on video: