Laminate can be laid in two main ways: straight (along the wall) and diagonally. For narrow, long rooms, straight laying is better, and if the length of the room differs slightly from the width, you can resort to diagonal laying. The process itself is quite labor-intensive and requires more complex calculations.
The main disadvantage of diagonal laying is the increase in material consumption (waste is 10-15%, and when laying straight - 5%). But this flooring option looks advantageous and allows you to create a more sophisticated design. Since the eye tends to follow long panel joints, this is a good way to draw attention to a piece of furniture located in a corner.
The simplest calculation for laying diagonally is to determine the area of the room and add 15%, and then divide the result by the area of one laminate panel. There is also a formula for a more accurate calculation.
Let the length and width of the room be X and Y, and the length and width of the laminate panel A and B. In addition to these values, we will need a number equal to the square root of 2, which is approximately 1.42.
- We determine the area of the room as standard, X*Y
- Reserve area according to the formula U*B*1.42
- To get the total area of the products that will be needed for work, add up both obtained results
- Divide the amount by the area of one laminate panel, get the number of panels, round the result up
In general, the formula for determining the number of panels n looks like this: 
Tip: for diagonal installation, it is better to purchase a laminate with shorter panel lengths.
Preparatory work
To cut laminate, you need a tool with fine teeth; it is best to use a special machine or jigsaw; you can also use a circular saw. In a pinch, a hand saw or hacksaw will do, but for larger jobs, a power tool is preferable. Cutting can be done as the installation progresses, first preparing the panels for 2-3 rows. If a large number of panels are cut, they must be numbered so as not to get confused.
Important: the corners in rooms are often not perfectly straight, so you have to navigate directly on site to determine at what angle to cut the edges of the panels adjacent to the walls. Particularly careful measurements are needed for the first 2-3 rows. If the panel is laid in a place where there is a protrusion, a pipe comes out of the floor, curly cutouts are made according to a cardboard template.
Before starting installation you must:
- let the laminate sit indoors for at least a day
- level, strengthen, clean the base
- lay a backing
- prepare wedges for expansion gaps (you can use wooden blocks, laminate scraps, the optimal width is 1-1.5 cm)
Possible installation options
Laminate flooring can be laid diagonally in 3 ways:
- Laying starts from the corner, the first element has the shape of a right triangle
- The first fragment is placed at some distance from the corner and has the shape of a trapezoid
- Laying begins from the center of the room, from its diagonal line, the first row is prefabricated
As a rule, work is carried out from left to right, starting from the corner away from the doors. It is customary to lay the first row with the tongue (ridge) away from you, with the groove towards you. Panels with a conventional lock (Lock) are located in the same plane and are knocked down with a light hammer through a wooden spacer for a tight connection. Since it is more convenient to hammer a tenon into a groove, and not vice versa, it is better to start laying laminate with such a lock from the corner and work in one direction. If a row consists of several panels, they can be attached to those already laid individually or assembled in a row and connected to the previous one.
Panels with a click (click) connect at an angle and snap into place, no padding is required. The connection can be made on both sides, so this laminate can be laid from the center or indented from the corner.
Laying from the corner
On the back side of the laminate board, a right triangle is drawn with angles of 45° (if the corner of the room is not perfectly straight, the necessary adjustments are made), with the hypotenuse towards the groove. This triangle is placed in the corner of the room and wedged from the walls on both sides to create a gap. The unused part of the board will be useful when laying the second half of the room.
Then the whole panel is taken, from the edge of the side with the groove towards the side with the tongue, a line is drawn at an angle of 45°. From the resulting point on the side with the tongue, a segment is laid off equal to the length of the base of the triangle. The second point is connected to the base to again form an angle of 45°, and an isosceles trapezoid is cut out. The same principle is observed when cutting the following elements - the length of the smaller base of the next trapezoid should be equal to the length of the larger base of the previous one.
When the length of one panel is not enough to fill the distance from wall to wall, rows of several panels are assembled, first from 2, then from more. Corners are cut only at the outer panels in each row. The panels need to be laid offset by half or a third of the length so that the seams run staggered. Each next laid row is wedged.
After half the room is covered with laminate, the direction of cutting the corners changes, now the larger base will be on the tongue side, and the smaller base on the groove side. At this stage, you can use fragments that were previously formed during cutting.
Video: laying laminate diagonally from a corner
Laying in two directions
Laying can begin with a solid panel, it is cut at both ends at 45°, laid with cuts parallel to adjacent walls, pushed into a corner as far as the walls allow, and wedged. Next, several rows are assembled in the direction of expansion. The next row immediately after the solid panel can be made of two symmetrical fragments, and in subsequent ones the seams are offset. When several rows are assembled, you can fill the corner with smaller fragments. For ease of access, the assembled shield can be moved towards you, and when the corner is assembled, push it back, not forgetting the wedges.
If the installation starts from the center, it is necessary to connect the opposite corners of the room with a diagonal line, drawing it on the substrate.
Tip: It’s difficult to draw a long line from corner to corner; it’s better to stretch the string between nails or screws hammered into the corners.
Then the angle between the drawn diagonal and the wall is measured and the first laminate panel is cut at the appropriate angle. It is placed in a corner so that its wide base lies on the drawn line, and is separated from the wall with wedges. The required number of whole panels is connected to it at the ends, and the last one in the row is cut at the desired angle. Then the second row is assembled, which is a mirror image of the first, only the cutting must be done in such a way that the seams run apart. Next, laying is done in both directions from the center, and suitable fragments are immediately used.
If the same floor covering is laid in several rooms, and they are not separated by thresholds, the laminate is not cut along the line of the doorway, the following panels will be connected to the panels extending beyond the room.
Video: laying laminate flooring diagonally from the center of the room
Bottom line
Laminate laid diagonally looks quite impressive, so the cost of labor and materials is justified. It is better to lay laminate flooring with a tongue-and-groove joint in one direction and start from the corner. For laminate with a latch, the direction of laying does not play a fundamental role, so new rows can be connected to the base one on both sides. When laying from the center, small fragments are mounted last, ensuring a more rational consumption of material.
Today, many people choose laminate for flooring - it is not only very convenient to choose it for the design solution of almost any apartment, but it is also quite easy to install it yourself and without extra expenses.
Those who are at least superficially interested in this issue know that laminate flooring can be laid either straight or diagonally. Both of these methods have their advantages and disadvantages - for example, straight is perfect for laying on your own, even if you do not have sufficient experience in this matter, however, using this method, laminate flooring can only be laid in a room with a standard layout - elongated in length. For square rooms, it is necessary to lay laminate flooring diagonally - we cover how to do this correctly in this article.
Despite the fact that installing a laminate floor is a technology that requires compliance with technical recommendations, it is quite possible to do it yourself. Let's take a closer look at how laminate flooring can be laid diagonally, what are the advantages and disadvantages of this process, and also compare different methods of laying flooring.
It's no secret that today laminate flooring is at the peak of popularity, so for most people there is a question of installation - and some prefer to do the work themselves, customizing the finished result to their needs and requests, as well as making quite significant savings.
Most often, those who do not have experience in laying floors do it in the usual direct way and lay out the panels in a straight line, along the walls in the room.
This solution is good only for those rooms that have the correct shape - but if there are features such as an unconventional shape or rounded walls, the diagonal laying method will help.
While the standard technique places laminate panels so that they are parallel to one wall and perpendicular to the other, otherwise they are laid diagonally at an angle of about 45 degrees. As a rule, it is this angle that allows you to achieve optimal results.
Advantages and disadvantages of the method
One of the main advantages that I would like to highlight is the interesting and original appearance of the room, a good design solution that visually adds volume to the space while maintaining the usual length and width. Coverings laid out in this way look neat in narrow rooms that are very elongated in length. If the room has a hexagon shape, has niches or curves, then with the direct installation method most of the flaws will be noticeable immediately.
List of advantages:
Unfortunately, there are also disadvantages:
In general, with a competent approach, this method has many more advantages than disadvantages.
How to prepare
Every careful and careful owner should know that the foundation is extremely important when performing preparatory work. Having analyzed what material the base is made of, it will be possible to choose the right type of preparatory work. Usually we are talking about two different types of lower base.
Concrete
Usually we are talking about a concrete base if repairs are carried out in an apartment building with a large number of floors. In this case, preparation will begin with pouring a screed of cement and concrete - this is simple and accessible to everyone. There will be no need to attract external forces and employees.
Here's what you should pay attention to if you have a concrete base:
- the screed will dry for at least 3 weeks;
- to cope with drying faster, add plasticizers to the prepared solution;
- be sure to make sure that the screed is neat, without cracks or depressions - such parts can cause significant damage and cause problems in the future. To avoid this, it’s easier to simply replace the screed with a new one.
If you take into account all these nuances, the result will be of higher quality and faster.
floor screed
Wood base
Of course, wood is a much less durable and stable material, despite the abundance of all kinds of impregnations and compositions. That is why, before laying the laminate, try to perform a few simple steps that will allow the floors to last longer:
List of tools
First of all, we will need a saw with fine teeth; a special machine, jigsaw or circular saw will also work well. However, remember that hacksaws for working with metal and hand saws will not work.
Additionally, purchase a hammer, measuring tape, bars and wedges, as well as pencils and rulers for taking measurements.
How much laminate will it take?
It is very simple to accurately calculate the number of boards required for work using the classical method - just find out the ratio of the total area of the entire room and the area of a single board.
In this case, large panels are first laid out and finally trimmed to the desired size, then, in the second row, you will need to lay out whole panels, in addition to the last one - it is carefully trimmed until the desired size is achieved. The same is done with the third and any subsequent step.
In general, the installation principle will practically not differ from that of direct installation - the only difference is that the trimmings will be triangular, and initially the amount of material must be prepared in greater quantities. So, the amount is calculated from the area of the room, but it will be necessary to add approximately 15 percent of the amount of material for additional waste. For particularly experienced installers, this number can be reduced to 5 percent; average values will be around 10 percent.
Interesting! This amount of reserve will be required when laying at an angle of 45 degrees; if the angle increases, then there will be more waste. It is better not to deviate from gold standards.
What rules should you follow?
A little trick from the owner: the pieces of laminate that remain from the first laid row can be an excellent start to the next one.
It is best to stick to an angle of up to 45 degrees (about 30 is acceptable). This installation method is good for rooms with a width of up to 6 and a length of up to 8 meters.
In what cases is laminate not installed?
Laminate will not always be a good option for flooring. There are conditions that make this type of coverage impossible or impose certain restrictions on use.
First of all, you should not lay a laminate flooring with glue (or any similar method) - not only does it look terrible, it also reduces the durability of use. Shrinkage of the building or temperature changes will cause the coating to simply move.
Interesting! Laminate is not a suitable option for those rooms where the natural air humidity is higher (this applies to saunas or baths, showers, open spaces, balconies and terraces).
If the room requires high traffic or the constant presence of a large number of people, then it is better to give preference to another material that is more resistant to wear.
Laying technology: making the right choice
Remember that choosing the technology by which installation will be performed is a very important task that cannot be neglected. Here are the basic techniques.
| Method | Description |
|---|---|
| Adhesive installation | With it, laminate boards are secured using adhesive mixtures specially selected at the end. This method is good because it allows for good sealing of the joint areas, good waterproofing, lack of deformation and resistance to changes in temperature conditions. This installation is quite easy and simple. However, the disadvantages include the impossibility of replacing individual elements if they are damaged - only through complete dismantling. |
| Castle Click | This method is considered one of the most popular - the laminate is installed quite easily, the method is accessible even to beginners, and the boards using this system are attached at an angle, which allows you to quickly and conveniently dismantle the coating partially if damage or other deformation of the board occurs. |
| Castle Lock | The Lock method is similar to the “Click” method, however, the parts will be attached precisely in the horizontal plane - for example, when installing boards between walls or making a second row along the length, if the distance between the rows of boards is small. The boards are knocked down using a block and a hammer between two rows. All rows will subsequently be mounted in the same way, without changes. |
Step-by-step instructions for performing the technique of laying laminate flooring diagonally
As we have repeatedly mentioned before, any installation of flooring begins with good preparation - first the base is leveled, all unevenness is eliminated, then all debris, dirt and foreign objects are completely removed.
The second step of preparation will be to make a layer of substrate - usually the sheets (if the substrate is sheet) should be laid out with joints spaced apart - the sheets are fastened using tape. If you prefer a rolled underlay, then everything is even simpler - the sheets are rolled out in rolls over the entire floor area from wall to wall. If there is a pipe or other element in the way of rolling out and laying the base that cannot be removed, it will be enough to carefully trim the base.
- First method: the starting point for laying the laminate floor will be the corner of the room farthest from the door; a triangular fragment of the covering is placed in the corner, which is formed by cutting the board at an even angle of forty-five degrees. Next, the elements are laid at the same angle - they will be trapezoidal boards.
- Second method: we lay the laminate from the central point of the room, which is determined by intersecting the diagonals of two corners located opposite each other. In this case, the first laid out row will be the longest; it will need to be laid out from several elements of the laminate flooring.
Remember that you will need to leave gaps near the walls and elements of the heating system. To ensure uniformity, use specially selected wedges or simply cuttings of laminate boards.
Don't know how to cut material at an exact 45 degree angle? There is nothing simpler - use a regular square and create a template for cutting the material.
Angular method
This is the simplest and most common method of laying laminate flooring. It is recommended that the long sides of each board (panel) be positioned in the direction of the sun's rays entering the room - this will ensure that the joints are less noticeable and the floor will look more uniform and neat.
The boards, as already mentioned, will have a trapezoidal shape. Accordingly, the length of the upper side of the board will be equal to the lower side of the previous laid trapezoid.
Step-by-step instruction.
- Accurate measurements are taken taking into account all allowances and technological gaps. Use a tape measure and a square, and also use a prepared template. All lines will be drawn using the most ordinary pencil. The edges are trimmed with a wood hacksaw or jigsaw along the previously drawn lines.
- If more than one board is being laid in a row, you will need to trim the first panel on the left to form a triangle.
- The boards will be connected to each other in one row with their short end sides, after which the already assembled row is connected to the previously laid one.
- Once you have laid the last panel, the final row is attached and the floor will need to be tapped and compacted.
- In the same way, you will gradually lay out all the rows one after another and move closer to another corner of the room - the cutting direction will be changed, now we are moving not from short rows to long ones, but exactly the opposite. All rows will be laid in a similar way.
All rows must be laid equally
- Our installation ends with the installation of the last small-sized triangle, which you cut out of the panel in advance - it will be exactly the same as the triangle that you laid very first.
Laying method from the center
If you have made up your mind and decided to lay the laminate diagonally, starting from the central part of the room, follow the following recommendations.
- Draw a conditional diagonal between opposite corners of the room. The method is up to you - you can simply draw this line on the backing or stretch the rope from one corner to another.
- Next, measure the size of the cut angle on the first board between the rope and the wall closest to it - once you have drawn a cut line on the board, cut along it. This board is placed with its long side diagonally, leaving wedges near the wall to create a gap.
- Then other panels are attached to the first board with short sides, while the last board at the bottom must be cut to the desired size at the desired angle (you determined its size earlier).
- All subsequent rows are laid according to a similar pattern, the joints are shifted according to the chessboard principle. Thus, you will come to the conclusion that in adjacent rows the joints will be offset - this will allow the floor covering to be stronger and less susceptible to deformation.
- Also, the end joints in adjacent rows will be arranged in a checkerboard pattern.
To summarize, first connect the ends of the panels (usually using locks), then fasten the already assembled rows with their long sides to the previous rows.
The most convenient thing is to carry out this installation together, because you will need to connect several boards in long rows, and there will be no need for extra help. If this is not possible, then simply use a small weight: once you have connected part of one row and clicked the locks, simply press the connected boards with a weight and continue to interlock the parts in the row. Don't be afraid - the connected boards should not fall apart.
Maintain a technological gap of about 10 mm between the walls and panels - this will allow the floor to lie more evenly, especially if there are frequent changes in climate conditions in the room. You will later remove these gaps under the baseboards; they will not be noticeable.
Installation features
It would be a good idea to pay special attention to how best to design the places where the panels come into contact with the heating pipes.
The first method is to drill a hole in the panel that will be about one and a half centimeters larger than the diameter of the pipe. This gap can be made on two joint boards by drilling a separate semicircle on each. Or, if you want, drill a hole in the board, and after that, divide the laminate sheet into two halves.
To seal the area where the panel meets cutouts and central heating pipes (or other elements that cannot be removed), use sealants.
As you can see, everything is very simple - laying a laminate flooring in a diagonal manner does not present much difficulty; it only requires accuracy and precision in drawing up estimates and counting the material. It is better not to start this method without planning. As a result, you will have a neat and beautiful floor with an unusual coating effect that you were able to create with your own hands.
The room looks more spacious, there is more visually defined space - this will be a huge advantage for apartments with small living space.
During installation, please note that difficulties may arise when purchasing products from brands such as Cronotex, Berry Flour, Tarkett, Vitex and Pergo. The fact is that each of these companies has a number of developments that can affect how the panels move, what type of lock and its size. If you find that you have difficulty connecting blocks, then create rows with alternating short and long locks.
Interesting! The most accurate way to cut the material is with an electric jigsaw from the reverse side - this way you will protect the surface from chipping.
Laying laminate over a cement screed is usually done no earlier than a week after application. In winter, it is better to wait three weeks or even a month. To level wooden floors, use OSB boards, isolon or underlay.
jigsaw
Under no circumstances should you lay laminate flooring all over the entire apartment, especially if the flooring is installed in several rooms at once, in the hallway and in the kitchen. Try to ensure that each room has its own individual direction for laying the panels.
If parquet is used as a base, be sure to repair it so that it does not creak.
If you are still not sure that you will be able to lay laminate flooring yourself, it is better not to risk it and enlist the help of specialists. The overpayment for high-quality installation will more than pay for itself with long-term operation and no need for repair work.
Remember that laminate flooring is sensitive to water, so do not use water-based adhesives. Also avoid sand or fine gravel, which could scratch the finish. Once installation is complete, wipe the floor with a microfiber cloth.
Laminate floors look noble, neat, they are durable and of high quality. Be sure to take into account the temperature and humidity in the room.
When laying, sort the scraps and try to use them as much as possible during installation.
Small-sized panels are well suited for diagonal laying.
Diagonally laid laminate: interior solutions
Try to experiment: for example, panels of colors that contrast with each other or just shades that are slightly different look good - this gives the flooring expressiveness.
There should be a slight difference in color from the walls - this is a general rule for room design. Try not to overload the room with dark or light colors in the interior.
Of course, dark laminate can also be laid diagonally - it will look good in offices and bedrooms
Let's sum it up
In the article, we outlined the basic rules for installing and laying laminate flooring made in a diagonal manner. Despite the fact that this is a rather labor-intensive and sometimes more complex process than installation using the traditional direct method, the result is usually much more advantageous and creates room for creativity and imagination. The room will look much more beautiful and original, often the appearance of the room is truly transformed. Use different colors and feel free to find your own solutions.
We examined the main advantages and disadvantages of this method, as well as the features of its self-installation. If you want your flooring to look good and harmonious, then we recommend that you choose this method.
Feel free to experiment, learn new things and get acquainted with interesting design solutions - and good luck in transforming your home!
Video - Video tutorial on laying laminate flooring diagonally
Laying laminate flooring in itself is an extremely responsible task, requiring careful preparation, accuracy, patience, and accurate calculations.
All this will be needed to an even greater extent if it is decided to lay laminated panels diagonally.
But the efforts spent will be rewarded handsomely - a coating laid in this way literally transforms any room.
Traditionally, laminate flooring is laid in such a way that the long seams between the panels are oriented parallel to the rays from the main source of daylight - the window.
And what possibilities does diagonal laying open up:
- First of all, the window (one or more) may not be located quite standardly, with an offset to one corner or another. It may turn out that it is the diagonal laying that will fully comply with the principle of parallelism to the rays of light.
- Panels located at an angle to the walls of the room do a great job of hiding its geometric imperfections. So, if the walls are not parallel to one another, the traditional laying method will only emphasize this defect, and the diagonal one will make it almost invisible.
- The diagonal arrangement of laminated panels gives an interesting visual effect - a visual expansion of space, which can be very important in cramped rooms of small apartments.
- This type of installation simply looks very beautiful and gives the interior of the room an exquisite originality.
Is it true that more laminate will be needed?
Yes, if you decide to resort to diagonal laying, the consumption will be higher, the laminate should be purchased with a certain reserve. This is explained simply - in the areas where the ends of the panels adjoin the walls, they will have to be cut at a certain angle, “adjusted to the location.” No matter how hard you try, “waste-free production” will not be achieved.
For experienced craftsmen, according to them, a 5% supply of laminate is enough - they have already developed a professional instinct for the most optimal arrangement of panels.
For those who will carry out such installation for the first time, the reserve should be larger.
There are recommendations to purchase a reserve of 15 or even 20%, which probably still exceeds the limits of reason.
Among finishers, it is customary to rely on a 7 percent reserve norm, but for a beginner, to guarantee, you can take a reserve of 0.1 of the total area of the room.
If this value is divided by the area of the panels in one factory package, you can get the exact value of the packages required to completely cover the room diagonally with laminate.
You should purchase all the required quantities at once - there is no guarantee that the laminate of a given batch will be in the store after some time.
And panels, even of the same model, but from a different batch, may differ noticeably in color, which will be immediately noticeable on the floor.
Preparation for installation
In order for the installation of laminate flooring to be successful and the coating to be of high quality, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory measures.
Preparing the floor surface indoors
Laminate flooring can be laid either on a concrete screed, after carrying out a set of necessary works on waterproofing and installing a special substrate, or on an old floor covering - linoleum, boards, etc. The general requirement is that the floor must be perfectly flat and stable at any point.
If subsidence or creaking is observed in any place, appropriate repairs are required.
Linoleum should not have delaminations, bubbles, through wear, or obvious signs of destruction of the concrete base underneath.
- If so, then priming with deep penetration waterproofing compounds must be carried out. In addition, the floor is covered with plastic film on top. All work on this basis begins to be carried out only after the coating has completely hardened, in accordance with technological standards.
- A backing is placed under the laminate - polyurethane foam or natural cork. Its sheets are installed end-to-end and secured with tape.
- It’s even better if it is possible to completely cover the room with OSB boards - they will provide a perfectly flat surface and an additional noise and thermal insulation effect.
Preparation of material and tools, work planning
The purchased laminate, after delivering it to the work site, must be unpacked and allowed to rest in this form for at least 2-3 days.
The panels adapt to the temperature and humidity of the room, in this way we eliminate the possibility of their warping after installation.
It is imperative to draw a plan for the upcoming work, respecting the scale and taking into account the length and width of the purchased laminated panels. This drawing will give a clear idea of the laying sequence and will help to avoid mistakes when cutting the material.
Which laying angle is preferable?
It is best, of course, to lean at 45 degrees - the panel trims will be the most versatile, and the amount of waste will be significantly reduced.
An angle of 30 - 40 degrees is allowed, but if it is less than 30, the coating will look ugly.
Prepare in advance for work:
- jigsaw or hacksaw with fine teeth;
- hammer, preferably wooden or rubber;
- curved mount for installing finishing wall panels;
- tape measure, square, ruler, pencil.
It is advisable to immediately make a sufficient supply of spacer wooden wedges 10 mm thick to ensure a compensation gap along the walls.
Before starting work, you should definitely enlist the help of a friend - when laying diagonally, it is especially necessary.
The process of diagonally laying laminate flooring
Two schemes for laying laminate diagonally are used - from one, far corner of the room, or from the center, sequentially in one direction and the other.
From the corner
When laying from a corner, start with one solid panel, cut on both sides to the required angle.
It is she who will set the direction for the rest of the coating.
Do not forget that it should be wedged away from the walls by 10 to compensate for the thermal expansion of the material.
If there is a heating pipe running in the immediate vicinity of the corner of the room where work begins, it makes sense to start installation from here, immediately cutting a hole for it at the junction of two panels - this will make this operation much easier.
From the starting panel that made up the first row, it is more advisable to go to the center of the room. The corner that remains uncovered can be laid later, using short scraps of material that will certainly appear during the work.
It is obvious that each subsequent row with this installation increases in length. Be sure to shift the transverse seams by ½ the length of the panel - it will be more beautiful, and the strength of the coating will be much higher.
The panels of each row must be fastened at the ends in advance, with the exception of sections adjacent to the walls.
- The row is laid out in its place, but is not tightly locked in the lock with the previous one.
- Then a measurement is made at two points, from both sides of the end of the last flat panel to the wall.
- This distance, reduced by 10 mm, is transferred to the panel to be cut, a line is drawn and a cut is made along it with a jigsaw or hacksaw.
- The same is done on the other side of the row.
An important note is in order here:
If the opposite walls are parallel, then the corner left after trimming should fit perfectly on the other side of the row. This must be taken into account in order to avoid waste of material - it is necessary to use trimmings from one side to use them for the other.
And one more important note - the fatal mistake of many novice repairmen is inattention to the location of the tenon and groove of the laminated board lock - after cutting it often turns out that the corner is cut in the other direction.
The proverb about “measure seven times” is more relevant here than ever.
After all the parts for a complete row are ready, it is removed from the lock, assembled completely at the ends, and only then is it finally engaged with the locking part of the previous row.
This is where the help of a friend will be invaluable - when the length of the row becomes significant, it is very difficult to cope with such a procedure on your own. After installing a solid strip, it is wedged from the wall using wedges.
Laying continues in this manner throughout the room. Exceptions may be the internal corners of the room - there you will have to take measurements at three points - along the edges of the board and at the very point of intersection of the walls.
The process of laying laminate diagonally is shown in more detail and clearly in the video. Laying is done from the corner in a checkerboard pattern; it is described in detail how to start the corner and how to finish with the transition to another room.
From the center
Some craftsmen prefer to lay diagonally from the center of the room.
In this case, a long prefabricated row is laid first, which will set the general direction for everyone else.
Its installation is carried out in the same way as described above. After this, the coating is installed first completely to one corner, then to the other.
This technique is especially relevant in cases where the room has external corners - for example, a large ledge, a column, or when the covering seamlessly passes from one room to another.
In such a situation, it is advisable to lay the first row tangentially to the outer corner - this will significantly reduce the hassle with cutting. If this is not possible, you will have to take careful measurements at three or even more points.
When laying adhesive laminate, after the first three rows you must pause for 3-4 hours so that the glue sets well.
But using the “from the center” scheme when laying laminate with “Click” type locks may not be applicable.
This locking system involves inserting the ridge part into the groove at a certain angle and then clicking it into place, that is, installation must be carried out in only one general direction.
“Running away” to the sides from the center on some models of this type of laminate may simply be impossible. This should definitely be taken into account when planning work.
Upon completion of installation, all that remains is to remove the spacer bars and screw (to the wall, not to the floor!) the baseboards.
In general, diagonal laying is absolutely not to be rushed. Only careful measurements, attention and accuracy will ultimately result in a beautiful original coating.
And in order to minimize waste, during the installation process it is advisable to constantly sort the remaining scraps and use them in work as much as possible.
Having chosen laminate as a floor covering for their living space, most home craftsmen decide to do all the installation work themselves. Well, great! However, there is one big “but” in this: an unprofessional approach does not take into account the individuality of each specific room. We invite you to understand the nuances.
The laminate packaging instructions indicate the simplest installation method, which consists of parallel placement of the boards relative to the walls. And it is precisely this method (it’s written in the instructions!) that the overwhelming majority of “homemade” ones follow. Of course, if the room in which the laminate is installed has a strictly geometric shape (deviations of several degrees are not taken into account), then this method is preferable.
But what if the walls are uneven, shaped in a semicircle, or are there simply design flaws? In this case, another method of installing the laminate may be more successful - laying it diagonally.
With the usual installation method, laminate boards are placed parallel to the surface of the walls, and with a diagonal installation method, they are placed at an angle of 30-45°. It is considered optimal to maintain a slope of 45°, but since adjacent walls are rarely strictly perpendicular, the angle within one room can vary within the above-mentioned limits.
Advantages of installation in this way
Mastering the technique of diagonally laying laminate flooring will be useful to you not only when you need to hide layout imperfections or smooth out uneven walls. Diagonal cutting of flooring is often used by interior designers when they want to expand the space of a narrow and dark room.
This approach will be especially worthwhile if the room is not cluttered with unnecessary furniture. Then the diagonal lines visually stretch the floor and, accordingly, it seems that the room has become freer.
Well, the last argument in favor of this installation method is that the diagonal floor pattern looks more interesting than the usual parallel installation. It opens up a real field for creativity and allows you to modify the room, stretching it, making it lighter, highlighting individual functional areas.
If you have a glazed and well-insulated loggia and you choose flooring for it, you can use laminate. In the next article we will tell you how to do this correctly: .
Calculation of the required amount of laminate
The diagonal installation method is more complex than traditional parallel installation and requires more consumables. Therefore, when calculating the amount of laminate, it is necessary to plan 15-20% of the material for future waste.
For professional builders who have extensive experience in laying laminate flooring, this percentage is not so large and is closer to the minimum 5%. But, since you are just learning, we recommend that you add 15-20% to the area of the room and use this figure as the total amount of laminate.
An example calculation can be done here:
Technology and stages of diagonal laying
It is necessary to leave small gaps 1.5-2 cm thick between the walls and the laminated covering. These seams compensate for the swelling and shrinkage of the floor covering during temperature or humidity fluctuations.
To maintain the same distance along the entire perimeter of the room, you can use special pegs, which are removed from the resulting seams after installation. The gaps are then closed using skirting boards fixed to the walls.
A problem for enthusiastic home builders can be caused by the process of cutting the outermost slats in a row. You need to cut the edge of the board at an angle, so as to completely repeat the outline of the wall. To do this, measure the distance from the top point of the row to the spacer peg and, accordingly, from the bottom point to the peg.
The resulting distances are transferred to the entire laminate board in the form of two points - top and bottom. These points are connected by a line along which the panel is subsequently cut. Cut the laminate from the back using a jigsaw or a regular hacksaw.
Thus, there is nothing supernatural about laying laminate flooring diagonally. It requires a little more accuracy, preliminary calculations, planning and quantity of consumables. But as a result, you will get not just a beautiful and durable floor, but also the opportunity to visually expand such valuable square meters. And that's worth a lot, isn't it?
The most popular way to lay laminate flooring is longitudinal. It is the simplest and most economical. This method is often indicated on the instructions that come with the coating packaging. Most of those who decide to do the repairs themselves try not to deviate from the basic rules of installation. Of course, this is a good option, especially if there are no problems with the layout of the room, and the error during installation is several degrees. But what to do if the room has uneven walls and ledges? In a difficult situation, laying the laminate diagonally is better.
With the classic installation method, laminate boards are located parallel to the walls - along or across the room. The laminate is laid diagonally at an angle of 30 or 45 degrees. The last option is considered the most optimal.
Advantages and disadvantages of diagonal laying
The pros and cons of laying laminate flooring diagonally are controversial. It cannot be said that the advantages outweigh the disadvantages and vice versa. The undeniable advantages of this installation method: unusual design and the ability to zone the space.
Diagonal laying is the shortest way to a creative and interesting room design. The skills acquired during the renovation will be useful to visually smooth out uneven walls and hide defects in the layout of the room.
Laminate laid diagonally is a good way to visually expand a room. It is often used by interior designers. This floor looks most impressive in rooms that are not overloaded with furniture and accessories. In this case, the diagonal pattern of the laminate visually expands the space even more. It seems that the room has really become more spacious.
Here is a photo of the laminate diagonally in various options:
One of the most important arguments in favor of diagonal laying is that such a floor pattern looks stylish and opens up scope for designer possibilities. You can visually enlarge the room and make it brighter, divide the space into separate zones using different installation methods.
How to calculate the required amount of material
Laying laminate at an angle of 45 degrees is technically more difficult than the classic installation method and requires more materials to implement the plan. For this reason, when counting the required amount of laminate, add 15-20% to the resulting value. Professionals with extensive experience in laying laminate flooring can reduce unnecessary expenses to a minimum - up to 5%. If you decide to do the repairs yourself and have little experience in such work, it is better to play it safe and take more material.
How to do diagonal laying
So, how to lay laminate flooring diagonally? Before starting work, take paper, a simple pencil and a ruler. Draw a diagram of the room to scale and sketch out the layout of the boards on the plan. Consider the location of the windows: the boards should be laid so that sunlight falls on them parallel. Thanks to this, the seams between the slats are almost invisible. You will get a detailed diagram like in this photo:
Next, get to work directly. In order for laminate flooring to be laid correctly, it is important to level the base of the floor well. This is a mandatory rule when installing any floor covering, regardless of the method.
Floor preparation
From a technical point of view, preparing the base for diagonal laying is no different from the traditional longitudinal installation of laminate boards. There are several stages:
- Pour the concrete screed and wait until the mixture dries completely. Vacuum the floor, clearing the surface of dust and small debris.
- The second layer is waterproofing: primer or thick polyethylene film.
- A substrate is laid on top of the previous layers: cork, polypropylene, polystyrene foam, etc. Depending on the material, the sheets of the substrate are laid joint-to-joint or overlapping.
Laminate installation
You can lay the boards from corner to corner or from window to doorway. In the latter case, try to place the longitudinal joints in the direction of the sun's rays. You can start installing the floor from the center of the room so that the boards are level. Pull the cord diagonally from one corner of the room to the other. This will serve as a guide.
The first row should be laid strictly parallel to the guide. Lay the boards from the center to the left. With the diagonal laying method, the end locks are connected first, after which the entire long row is interlocked with the next, already fully assembled row. It is best to do the work with assistants. If you work alone, use a weight. This will make the process of connecting the longitudinal locks easier. Once you have secured the two rows and placed a weight on them to prevent them from coming apart, you can safely continue working.
The slats are laid using the bricklaying method or in a checkerboard pattern with an offset of at least 30-40 cm. The coating will be stronger and stronger, without deforming during use.
When you reach the walls, do not lay the laminate end-to-end. Be sure to leave small gaps of 1.5-2 cm. The fact is that with natural fluctuations in temperature and air humidity, the laminate will expand and contract. If not done, the floor will swell and cracks may appear. To ensure that the floor is laid evenly and the distance to the walls is the same everywhere, use small pegs while working. Once the laminate is completely installed, get rid of them. These gaps will not spoil the appearance of the floor. They are covered with a plinth, which is attached to the wall.
When making repairs with their own hands, some people encounter the problem of trimming the outer lamellas. The boards must be cut strictly diagonally, taking into account the direction of the wall. The cut should be parallel. How to do this correctly and smoothly? Using a ruler, measure the distance from the uppermost corner of the row to the peg between the wall and the boards, and in the same way measure the distance from the lower outer corner to the peg. Transfer the obtained values to the whole lamella. Mark the resulting points and connect them with a line. Clearly cut the panel along it as shown in this photo:
You can cut the laminate with a hacksaw or jigsaw strictly from the back side.
Whatever technology you decide to use to lay laminate flooring, always choose high-quality material. Don't skimp on coverage at the expense of quality. An average or premium laminate will last much longer than a cheap one. When installing the floor in the kitchen, it is better to choose a moisture-resistant coating. After you have purchased and installed laminate flooring in your home, let it sit for at least 48 hours. Maintain the temperature in the room: not lower than +17, so that the laminate, after being in the warehouse, gradually gets used to the new conditions.
Do not install laminate flooring in a damp room. This material does not tolerate sudden changes in humidity and large amounts of moisture in the air. This causes the lamellas to swell and swell. If you have recently plastered walls and other surfaces, it is better to wait to repair the floor. It is necessary that the humidity level in the room returns to normal.
Do not allow water to get on the laminate floor, especially if the most inexpensive material is chosen. The quality of this coating is the least resistant to any influences. Moisture-resistant panels are not afraid of an accidentally spilled glass of water, but even they will not withstand too much of it.
Laminate flooring should only be laid on a substrate and only on a flat base. If these conditions are not met, then we can expect that unevenness of the base will lead to deformation of the coating. The substrate prevents the laminate from changing its structure and is a good heat and sound insulator.
Laminate also goes well with any floor heating system. Don’t forget about the so-called thermal joints - those same gaps along the walls. It is worth considering that in office premises such gaps are much wider than in a living room. The size of the gap is calculated simply - 1.5 mm for each meter of room width.
Please note that all tips apply only to rooms with a humidity level of no higher than 65%.
Heavy, oversized furniture does not allow the floor to “breathe”, preventing the panels from naturally expanding and contracting. In this case, experts recommend increasing the gaps between the coating and the walls by another 1 cm around the entire perimeter.
Were you inspired by the photo and decided that you want to do the same? Correctly laying laminate diagonally at 45° is a little more difficult than along or across the room. You will be required to be more careful in your work and more accurate in your calculations. This installation option is less economical in terms of money. But in the end, you will get a beautiful and original floor that will stylishly fit into any interior and visually increase the space. And this is especially valuable in small rooms.
