General tricks for all materials
What color are the sails anyway?
People who have seen sailboats only in the form of souvenirs and pictures will be surprised by the topic of this article. How can this be, they will say? The sails are white, or red, like in “Scarlet Sails” by Alexander Greene. But in fact, almost every nation that built sailing ships had sails that were quite different in color. And because of this, debates about the “correct” color of sails continue among ship modellers.
Manufacturing of sailing ship hulls.
The construction of the hull of a sailing ship is significantly different from the construction of its model. For example, the model is not double skinned (internal and external), all the frames, of which there are a lot, are not installed, all the decks are not arranged, etc.
Therefore, here there is no need to look at the structure of the hull of a real ship in the same way; first of all, you need to dwell on those parts of the ship’s hull that the modeler needs to make.
Production of rope coils for models.
The sails are controlled using ropes and cables. And the ends of these ropes are collected into coils so as not to interfere, and hung on dowels.
This article describes one of the methods for making rope coils for hanging on model dowels.
Theory and practical work.
A series of lectures by the recognized master of modeling Boris Volkonsky.
In his lectures, the author provides a theoretical basis for ship modeling, shares many secrets and best practices in ship modeling, talks about the tools used and brings to your attention much more.
Spar and rigging of a sailing ship.
The article describes in detail the spar and rigging of sailing ships of the 17th-19th centuries. The basic proportions of the spar trees of battleships are given. It also describes the structure, order of application, places of traction and thickness of hemp standing rigging. The purpose and wiring of running rigging is carefully considered.
Sailing rig of the ship.
The article describes the sailing armament of ships of the 17th-19th centuries. The types of sails, their names, parts and methods of attachment to the spar are considered. Methods for controlling sails are also described. One of the many ways to make sails for models is described.
Calculation of spar and sail sizes.
The article provides a modern classification of sailing ships, a brief description of the production of general drawings, spar and sails of sailing ship models, methods for determining the dimensions of the spar of a sailing ship model, determining the area of the sails, determining the position of the masts along the length of the model, and also describes the main details of the spar and fastening of the sails .
Making a showcase or How to protect a model from dust.
I once read in a chat room (speaking in Russian, chat) a discussion about protecting models from dust. Judging by the number of participants, this topic worries many. Suggested measures ranged from simply using a vacuum cleaner and brush to placing your creations in plastic bags. I think all this is not effective. We ourselves, only ourselves, will save our creations from dust. After all, a showcase is like a frame for a masterpiece, it emphasizes and protects, and is aesthetically beautiful in itself.
My version of the rope
When building models of sailing ships, in the end, any modeller will come to the point where there is a need to make high-quality rigging. And it doesn’t matter what material the model is assembled from, but high-quality rigging is always made from threads. You can, of course, use online stores to buy ready-made threads, or buy a ready-made cable run there. But, personally, it was much more pleasant and interesting for me to make it myself.
Block tying
The other day someone asked me to tell me how I tie the blocks. I explained it to him in words, but they agreed that it would be better to do it in the form of a photo report (master classes are done by masters, but for now I’m making modest photo reports). Having made this photo report, I decided to publish it for everyone to see. Of course, I won’t discover America, professionals already know and can do everything perfectly well, but perhaps it will be useful for beginners to see, someone will take something for themselves, someone something will improve or change. One way or another, I will be glad if my (although, probably not entirely mine, since I also learned everything from someone) method helps someone.
Stitching drawings
This article will primarily be of interest to modellers who build their models from scratch according to drawings.
On the Internet you can find many drawings of ships (and not only) intended for building models from scratch. But very often, drawings are either broken up into many smaller sheets, or even collected in non-graphic formats such as DJVU or PDF. I will tell you how to convert these formats to JPG or PNG in another article. To work with them normally, of course, you can print out each sheet and glue it together with pens, but sometimes you need to have an entire drawing in a graphic file format. I’ll tell you how to glue the parts into one whole.
Nodes for modeling
I’m almost sure that many, when starting to engage in modeling, knew a couple of knots and were not aware of the variety of knots that exist. I myself discovered many nodes for a variety of conditions and places of application. This is what the nodes will be discussed in this article. I will list the components that I use or plan to use in making models.
Sailboat according to feng shui
This is interesting!
What associations do you have of a ship sailing on a serene sea? Most of us will say: romance, freedom, independence, adventure, the desire for something new, unknown, the expectation of something beautiful.
Feng Shui ship or sailboat - prosperity,
floating to your home
This is interesting!
It’s not hard to guess why a ship, in Feng Shui theory, is a symbol of abundance and prosperity. After all, since ancient times, any arrival of a ship at a port was associated with the arrival of goods, luxury items and overseas curiosities. This is how the ship came into feng shui and received its main purpose - to increase the well-being and material wealth of the family. But, like every talisman in Feng Shui, the ship has its own maritime rules and customs, which must always be adhered to so that the peaceful “golden sails” do not turn into a pirate ship.
You can create a model of an antique ship yourself without purchasing a ready-made structure for assembly. To achieve a high-quality result, you will have to show a lot of patience and perseverance.
Materials
To make a historical ship with your own hands, prepare:
- plywood or balsa wood;
- thin strips of wood, bamboo or rattan;
- wood glue;
- paper;
- pencil.
In this model of the ship, not plywood was used as a base, but balsa wood. The choice was due to the ease of working with the material. Unlike plywood, where you need a saw for cutting, with balsa wood everything was done with a simple sharp knife. You can also take thin strips for work from any material, they just have to bend well. Wood glue should not be replaced with hot glue, much less super glue.
Step 1. On paper you need to draw the main details of the future ship. You can print them if you find suitable layouts on the Internet. Please note that your ideas may undergo slight changes as you work. This is not critical if you just want to build a ship in an old style, and not repeat an exact copy of a specific ship.
Step 2. For convenience, work with the ship was divided into several parts. The ship itself was also assembled. Most of the time was spent making the central part of the ship. Then the front, rear and deck parts with the mast were made.
Step 3. First of all, using the existing sketches, make the skeleton of the ship. Be sure to make sure that all its edges are symmetrical. If there is a slight deviation somewhere, correct these flaws. Check that when attaching the ribs, they are exactly at an angle of 90 degrees.
Step 4. Once the skeleton is ready, start decorating its sides. To do this, glue a long strip along the center line of the side part. Continue to focus on it when you glue the rest. It is better to glue the slats in stages to make your work easier. Apply enough glue, but make sure that it does not flow down the slats. Additionally secure the slats using clamps, leaving them in this form until the glue has completely dried. After the glue has dried, remove the clamps and continue gluing the slats in the next area.
Step 5. Fill all areas where gaps form between the slats with epoxy resin. When ready, coat all parts of the ship with wood varnish.
Step 6. After the main work, move on to finishing. You can hide all possible aesthetic flaws at this stage. To do this, carefully glue slats over areas with obvious defects to hide them. You can make a horizontal line from rattan, emphasizing the smooth shape of the ship. The base of the ship is ready.
Step 7. Masts need to be made from wooden rods and small flat pieces of wood. There will be two masts in the ship. Adjust the rods in advance to the calculated dimensions. To attach the masts, cut two pieces of wood measuring 4 x 2 cm. Drill holes in them for the mast rods. Make a reinforcing lattice from small rods and assemble the entire structure.
Step 8. Make a template for the ship's deck from paper and, based on it, build a deck part from wooden strips. After letting it dry thoroughly, drill holes for attaching the masts. Insert and glue the masts. Use plywood to make the side rails of the ship.
Step 9. Glue the wooden strips at the front and back of the ship in the same way. They need to be glued to the side and in the deck part, and rods and handrails should be made from pieces of plywood. All parts are fastened with wood glue. Don't forget to raise the back of the ship with steps.
In the yacht port "Hercules" there is a shipyard where a grandiose project is being implemented to build from scratch (one might say, from a historical recreation) one of the greatest ships in the history of the Russian Navy "Poltava". Anyone can come here for an excursion, the cost is 300 rubles for an adult and 200 for a child, but if you come with the whole family, the total cost will be 500 for everyone.
Project "Poltava" complex, if only because there is no available detailed documentation, complete drawings or color images. Research in the archives is still ongoing. In 2013, a theoretical model of the vessel was made, based on data on similar ships.
It is planned that "Poltava" will become a scientific, cultural, research and pedagogical center for the study of the maritime history of the city and country. But already now excursion groups are allowed into the shipyard every day, where everyone can appreciate the work of the reenactors (among whom there are many historians and philosophers, and not just carpenters) and feel the power of the ship still under construction. And the skeleton that is in dry dock is huge. It barely fits into the lens, so we even had to do a panorama.
At the entrance we are greeted by a plan of the complex - everything can be studied, where everything is. 
First, we go to the shipwright’s house, where we wait for the guide and warm up at the same time, because... It's not May outside, and everyone is already quite cold.
Children will certainly find it interesting here - they can take part in workshops on lithography, sewing sails and making themed souvenirs. 
Our guide Oksana gives preliminary instructions - take the children by the hand, everyone follow the guide only, do not fight back, do not disperse, do not stand on heavy and seemingly strong pieces of wood. 
"Poltava" is built from oak trees, and the trees are of a certain thickness and curvature are being searched almost all over Russia. Trees 100-200 years old are used for construction, but, as we were told, instead of one felled oak, 4 new ones are planted. 
At the entrance to the huge hangar there is a reminder on how to tie various knots. 
And here is the first look from the entrance to the exposed skeleton of the future ship. The first impression is wow, the size is impressive. Secondly, what a wonderful smell of wood there is. Third - how wildly cold it is here! Yes, since we were here on a day off, when the technicians don’t work, the heating is turned off. Therefore, getting ahead of myself, I will say that despite the fact that everyone was happy and impressed, they were wildly chilled. 
They say tourist groups are not allowed here. We were allowed to climb inside. It felt like you were inside a huge fish and you could see its skeleton.
By the way, 1,800 oak trees will be spent on the construction of Poltava. 
We looked with interest at all sorts of interesting small details. For example, a strange one "Bucks thing."
The drawing is real, you have to believe it. 
And this is a special place on the floor where the required detail is drawn.
Actually, the part itself hangs from above. 
I wonder why this master does this? 
The story about Master Kuzma is generally touching. Here he gently asks not to touch the part, because he worked on it for several days. 
Skeleton. 
We go up to the dock balcony. There are posters with historical facts on the walls.
Here, for example, are 2 completely different types and colors of the Poltava’s stern. Which one do you like better? Blue for me. Although historians are more inclined to the option on the right. 
The complete appearance of the ship is only available in a black and white engraving by Picart from 1717. 
There are also photographs of all sorts of interesting historical documents that you could look at for a long time if it weren’t so cold. 
But these are the drawings we came up with after several years of research. 
Kuzya the Bear decided to take a selfie together with pink_mathilda against the backdrop of the future museum ship. 
We still had to go outside and completely freeze to fire a salvo from a cannon. The view here is beautiful. 
Here there is a monument with a ship's bell. Do you see the squirrel? And she is. 
And so?
What the artist was thinking about when placing the squirrel on the ship’s bell, apparently only he knows. Maybe it's a muse? 
The guns are solid. At first they were cast at the Kirov plant, but now the order was transferred to the Izhora plant. Actually, the entire technology for casting guns had to be reinvented - in the 21st century - casting guns is still a unique activity. 
And then we finally went into the warmth! :) These are masts, yards, topmasts, bombranstags and a bunch of other hard-to-remember names. It was a discovery for me that they are not made entirely of pine, but are assembled piece by piece with an internal hollow space. It turns out that it is simple physics - it is much more difficult to break a “tube” than just a stick. And on top there is a plug. 
On the floor above, sails are being sewn, but we were not allowed there because it is too dangerous :) The sails there are laid out on the floor, and they can be very easily damaged.
By the way, they are not planning to install a motor in the sailboat so that the ship would be as close as possible to the realities of the 18th century. But then I don’t understand very well how it will sail along the Neva on the night of Scarlet Sails - there are plans that the Swedish sailing ship will be replaced by the patriotic Poltava.
For the excursion I would like to express my gratitude to the head of the excursion service of the Poltava shipyard, Oksana Roda, for freezing with us and showing us so many interesting things.
Taken from ta_samaya This is how they build Poltava. Excursion to the historical shipyard
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The element of water has always attracted desperate travelers, brave sailors and fearless pirates. Sailing on the waves and watching new horizons open up before you is the most amazing thing that can happen in life. In order to set sail, you need to build a ship with your own hands. Even if it is not as huge as the Titanic, the main thing is that you created it yourself.
Everyone probably has (or had) a favorite activity that they don’t mind devoting their free time to. Some people have a collection of stamps, some are into photography, some like to cook, knit, draw,... and so on, you can’t list everything.
One of my favorite things, or, more simply put, hobbies, is. This news is dedicated to them.
After this, you can leave the “skeleton” to dry and start covering the deck.
Everything is not as simple as it seems from the outside - the covering boards must be laid in a certain pattern. Of course, you can just lay long planks, but it will look quite rough...
After this, the decks (or deck, if there is only one) are placed in their proper place and the first hull begins. Typically, a ship model is covered twice - the first skin is rough, it is made of very soft wood. 
One by one, the planks are attached to the “skeleton” using glue and small nails, which will be removed when the glue dries.
The work is delicate, the planks do not always bend easily and can break.
After painstaking work, the entire body is covered with the first layer!
Now you need to close the gaps between the planks and sand them properly.
Then you can proceed to the front cladding. You need to be extremely careful with it - the planks are much thinner than rough ones and break easily.
The technology is the same - glue and nails.
You can imagine the amount of work (the ship in the photo, Victory, is 1300 mm long...)...
I described the assembly of the HMS Victory model in 17 reviews, everyone who wants to read it is welcome!
And this is a model of probably the most famous ship in the world - the Santa Maria (in the process of being assembled, of course).
After the second skin is finished and sanded, everything can be varnished. And then we’ll take care of the deck - ladders, boats, hatches,...
Almost all parts are made of wood and brass. There is no plastic at all.
Exterior detailing is no less important. 
Well, after the hull is completed, we proceed to the rigging.
But before that you need to install masts and yards.
Each knot is tied by hand (the same sea knots :-).
And these knots are simply countless!
The sails must be pre-stitched. At Santa Maria they still needed to be painted.
If the set does not include a stand, then here you can give free rein to your imagination. 
For example, I made a stand for Santa Maria from a piece of oak parquet.
And only when the very last knot is tied can the ship be considered ready!
You can proudly put it in the most visible place and with an enthusiastic “Wow!” guests, looking down, say “Yes, I did it myself...”.
Wooden ships and sailboats
For many, prefabricated ship models are something more than an ordinary hobby and an interesting activity. This is, first of all, an opportunity for self-expression, a way to realize your talents and, at the same time, to be distracted and indulge in dreams. Regardless of whether it is a combat ship, a modern yacht, or a military galleon, each ship personifies all the power and splendor of the sea. 
Tabletop wooden ships have excellent decorative qualities; it is impossible not to admire them. Therefore, wooden ship models always become a worthy decoration for any room, be it a study or a home living room.
To work on each ship model you will need enviable patience and accuracy. But the result of painstaking work is an assembled model, which will become a well-deserved source of your pride.
Wooden ship models for beginners
CONSTRUCTO
Universal series of ships: 80620 1/85 St. Helena
Article: CNSB0620 80620 1/85 St. Helena
Two-masted schooner St. Helena was launched in 1814 and served as a link between England and its eastern colonies. The kit is a 1/85 scale replica of a schooner and is recommended for modelers with little experience.
Universal Ship Series: 80618 1/135 Bluenose II
Article: CNSB6118 80618 1/135 Bluenose II
Wooden model of the ship, the fishing schooner Bluenose II. Launched in 1921 in Nova Scotia. This fishing schooner gained fame after numerous victories won in classic races. Recommended for beginning modelers.
Universal Ship Series: 80615 1/100 Flyer
Article: CNSB6115 80615 1/100 Flyer
Wooden model of a pilot ship in 1/100 scale, Flyer. This American merchant ship, which was renowned for its speed, was converted into a warship and then used as a coast guard ship during the American Revolution and the War of 1812. This is a universal series kit from Constructo, quite easy to assemble and recommended for beginning modellers.
Universal Ship Series: 80616 1/100 Union
Article: CNSB6116 80616 1/100 Union
Model of the brigantine Union, a two-masted sailing ship with square sails. Such ships were very common during the 18th and 19th centuries, used as merchant or light warships, and also served as coast guard ships at a short distance from the coast. The model is recommended for beginning modelers.
Universal series of ships: 80702 1/55 Albatros Sailing Ship
Article: CNSB0702 80702 1/55 Albatros Sailing Ship
Albatros is a model of a sailing ship built in 1899 on the stocks of Holland, also known as the North Sea Clipper, one of the oldest sailing ships still sailing, one of the main advantages of which is the ability to be at sea in extremely adverse weather conditions.
Universal series of ships: 80703 1/80 Carmen Spanish Sailing Ship
Article: CNSB0703 80703 1/80 Carmen Spanish Sailing Ship
Sailing ship model, reproduction of the Spanish frigate The Carmen, built in 1861. Recommended for modelers with little experience.
ARTESANIA LATINA
Universal series of ships: 20145 1/35 Bremen Krabben Kutter
Article: LATB2145 20145 1/35 Bremen Krabben Kutter
The first shrimp fishing vessel appeared in 1898 and was virtually designed to work in the North Sea; these vessels eventually began to be equipped with 8-10 strong engines and were about 10 meters in length. Bremen Krabben Kutter, a small shrimp fishing boat built in 1953 in a small shipyard in Germany.
Universal series of ships: 22299 1/80 J.S. Elcano w/ABS Hull & Tools
Article: LATB2299 22299 1/80 J.S. Elcano w/ABS Hull & Tools
Model ship J.S. Elcano, a replica of the Spanish four-masted naval academy training vessel launched at Cadiz on March 5, 1927.
Universal Ship Series: 19004 1/25 Bounty Jolly
Article: LATB1904 19004 1/25 Bounty Jolly
A 1/25 scale wooden replica boat, Bounty Jolly, from the famous historic ship HMS Bounty, famous for the feat of sailing 3,600 miles across the ocean in three small ships.
Universal Ship Series: 22400 1/35 Mare Nostrum Fishing Trawler w/Tools
Article: LATB2400 22400 1/35 Mare Nostrum Fishing Trawler w/Tools 
Latina Mare Nostrum is a 1:35 scale replica of a typical Mediterranean fishing trawler built in the harbor of Arenys de Mar, Spain. Trawler assembly kit complete with tools.
Universal series of ships: 22170 1/50 Marie Jeanne
Article: LATB2034 22170 1/50 Marie Jeanne
Universal Ship Series: 22445 1/35 Bremen Fishing Cutter w/Tools
Article: LATB2445 22445 1/35 Bremen Fishing Cutter w/Tools
A scale replica of the Bremen Krabben Kutter shrimp fishing vessel, a small vessel built in 1953 in a small shipyard in Germany. Ship assembly kit with tools.
TECHNOLOGY FOR MANUFACTURING SHIP MODELS
§ 8. MATERIALS AND THEIR PROCESSING
Wood of various species is used to build models of ships and vessels. The main requirements for it are: strength with minimal weight, ease of processing, fine-layering and the ability to stably maintain the given original shape. Such tree species include linden, aspen and poplar. The hulls of ship and vessel models are often made from them. Pine, spruce, cedar, maple, mahogany, balsa, alder and pear are also used in ship modeling.
Pine, cedar and spruce have high mechanical properties, they crack and bend well, especially when soaked and steamed. They are used mainly for the manufacture of stringers and various slats in the construction of model bodies. Model bodies can also be made from these rocks. When making model parts and especially stringers, it is necessary to avoid large-layer wood and select the smallest layer, with the number of annual layers of at least 10 per 1 cm. The layers must be parallel, otherwise the slats will break along the beveled layer. .
Maple has a hard, uniform, fine-grained white wood. It doesn't chip well, but peels off veneer well; polished and painted with any varnish. It is usually used to veneer (cover) the decks of model merchant ships.
Mahogany is the name given to many species with wood ranging in color from light brown to dark reddish. It grows mainly in Africa, the Antilles and America. On the territory of the USSR it is found in Transcaucasia.
The wood of this tree is valued not only for its beautiful color and pattern, but also for its water resistance. It is easy to cut and process, well varnished and polished. In ship modeling, wood is used to make tabletop sailing models. A deck lined (assembled) from individual thin strips (slats) looks especially beautiful.
Hard but brittle, walnut wood is light gray to brown in color, with very beautiful grain. It is well polished, varnished and waxed. It is used mainly as a finishing material in the manufacture of tabletop models of sailing ships.
Pear wood has different colors - from light pink to red, it is very dense and uniform. It is perfectly processed with cutting tools and is well polished. Used for inlaying models of sailing ships.
One of the main indicators of wood is density. The softer the wood (more loose), the smaller it is, and vice versa.
Density of some types of wood, g/cm3
Birch - 0.65 Linden - 0.48
Pear - 0.73 Poplar - 0.47
Walnut - 0.73 Spruce - 0.47
Maple - 0.75 Alder - 0.54
Red Aspen - 0.43
wood - 0.54 Balsa - 0.1-0.24
Pine - 0.51
In addition to wood, many other materials are used in ship modeling. Thus, for the manufacture of hulls and superstructures of models of ships and vessels, foam plastics, plexiglass, polystyrene, celluloid and fiberglass are used. Foam plastics lend themselves well to processing on woodworking machines and with hand-held carpentry cutting tools. Beginning modelers can use them to make ship hulls, and it is advisable to cover the hulls of large models with a layer of fiberglass on ED-5 epoxy resin.
Plexiglas and polystyrene - sheet materials. They can be used to make various superstructures, as well as to stamp the hulls of small ship models (500-600 mm) in heated form. These materials are well glued with dichloroethane or pear essence.
Fiberglass fabric is used in ship modeling for gluing model hulls and making parts of complex configurations. Ship modellers usually use fiberglass with a thickness of 0.25-0.4 mm of the brands TSF (b), ASTT (b) - 8, ASTT (b) C, ASTT (b) C2 and ASTT-9.
For many crafts, sheet metal is used - steel, brass, copper and tinplate.
§ 9. ADHESIVES USED IN SHIP MODELING
When building models of ships and vessels, various adhesives are used: protein, nitrocellulose and resin.
Carpenter's (gluten) glue, when prepared normally (in water), is very sensitive to moisture. But it can be made relatively waterproof if you cook it according to the following recipe: break it into small pieces, put it in a jar and fill it with natural drying oil. When the glue swells (after 12-13 hours), place the jar in another bowl filled with water and heat until the glue is completely dissolved. It can only be consumed hot. It takes one and a half to two times longer to dry than when prepared with water.
It should be remembered that it should not be brought to a boil. If it boils during cooking, it will almost completely lose its adhesive ability.
Casein glue is more water-resistant and is used for gluing textiles and paper products. Based on the strength of gluing, the following grades of this glue are distinguished: extra (B-107), first grade (B-105) and ordinary (OB).
The adhesive solution is prepared as follows: add 2 parts to one part of powder, and 1.7 parts of water for thicker glue. The resulting slurry must be stirred until it turns into a homogeneous mass without lumps or grains. The glue is suitable for use within 3-5 hours (depending on the composition). It is applied to both surfaces of the parts to be glued and kept in air for 3-5 minutes. Then the products are connected and pressed into clamps. Complete curing of the glue at room temperature occurs within 20-24 hours.
Nitrocellulose waterproof adhesives include enamel, AK-20, as well as any other nitrovarnishes: AB-4, 754, 900 and 930. They are produced ready-to-use.
Nitro adhesives are used for gluing wood, fabrics, celluloid, and leather. They can be diluted with solvents 646, 647 and RDV.
When gluing, both surfaces are covered with two or three layers of glue, allowing each time to dry until tack-free. After this, lubricate one of the surfaces again, connect it to the other and tighten the product with clamps.
You can prepare nitro adhesives yourself by dissolving celluloid in acetone or any of the above solvents. These adhesives are used as a primer for nitro putty on floating models and for the preparation of quick-drying putties with the addition of talc (baby powder), chalk and sawdust.
Polyvinyl phenolic adhesives are very water resistant and are made by mixing polyvinyl and phenolic resins. Before applying such glue, the parts must be heated.
BF-1 and BF"-2 adhesives are used for gluing aluminum, wood, steel, plastics, ceramics, fiber, leather, fabric and paper. When gluing parts, apply a thin layer of glue to the prepared surfaces and leave in air until tack-free (not less than 30 minutes). Then they are coated a second time and kept for 15 minutes again. After this, the parts to be glued are connected, compressed and left under pressure (at a temperature of 140-160 °) for 1 hour. If gluing is carried out without heating, then the parts must remain under pressure 3-4 days.
BF-6 glue is used for gluing fabric, which must be soaked and wrung out well before gluing. After smearing it with glue, it is heated with an iron through a damp piece of fabric until the glue dries.
All these adhesives are sold in stores in ready-made form.
Dichloroethane glue is used for gluing plexiglass, polystyrene and polymer materials. It is prepared by
dissolving plexiglass shavings in dichloroethane or pear essence. The surfaces to be joined are generously smeared with adhesive solution two or three times, dried until they are tack-free, smeared again and joined. For complete drying when gluing under pressure, it takes 4 hours, without pressure 8-10 hours.
The most durable and water-resistant adhesives are those based on epoxy resins.
The chemical industry of the USSR produces a large number of resins of various brands. But the most widespread among them are epoxy resins of the ED-5, ED-6, EDP and E-37 brands.
Epoxy resins ED-5 and ED-6 are a low-viscosity transparent liquid from light yellow to brown. To obtain epoxy glue or an impregnating compound (for example, for gluing model bodies), a hardener must be added to the epoxy resin. Depending on the type of hardener introduced, you can get hot-curing glue (heated up to 200 ° C) or cold-curing glue, which hardens at room temperature. Ship modellers are more satisfied with the latter. But it can also be heated to 70° C, then the gluing process speeds up and the strength increases.
To obtain cold-curing epoxy adhesive, one of the hardeners (8-15%) must be added to the ED-5 or ED-6 resin: hexamethylenediamine (HMD), pyridine, piperidine, or most often polyethylene polyamine (PEPA).
Epoxy compound adhesives with high strength - adhesive joints have low shrinkage, chemical, antifungal and moisture resistance. When gluing, they do not require the use of high pressure.
Cold-curing adhesives should be prepared immediately before their use, as they harden quickly (with the introduction of a hardener of 8-15% within 20-40 minutes).
The parts to be glued must be degreased. Two layers of glue are applied to the prepared surfaces, one after the other, allowing each layer to dry until tack-free. After this, the parts are pressed in and kept for 24 hours at a temperature of 18-25°.
If you add filler to epoxy glue - aluminum powder, chalk or talc, you can get a good, durable putty.
When gluing parts made of fiberglass (model bodies, superstructures, etc.), you must remember that ED-6 resin is very viscous and the compound based on it does not saturate dense fiberglass well. Therefore, one of the components is introduced into the glue as a plasticizer (thinner): DEG-1 epoxy resin, ethyl cellosolf, dibutyl phthalate or acetone. To prevent the fiberglass from sticking to the shape of the product, a so-called separating layer is applied between the blank and the fiberglass. To apply this layer, you can use a 10-15% solution of polyethylene in white spirit, wax, paste for polishing parquet floors and other materials.
Epoxy glue is widely used in the repair of ships, cars and tractors. By applying patches made of several layers of fiberglass impregnated with an epoxy compound, it is possible to ensure very high strength and tightness of such patches.
Epoxy compounds are toxic. The most toxic part of epoxy compounds is the hardeners.
Vapors and dust from hardeners and compounds are irritating to the mucous membranes of the nose, throat and eyes. Prolonged contact with vapors or dust from hardeners can cause severe injury. Therefore, when working with epoxy compounds and hardeners, the following precautions must be observed:
all operations for the preparation and use of epoxy compounds should be carried out in an isolated and well-ventilated room;
Carefully remove dust after processing cured compounds with a wet rag;
Before working with epoxy adhesives, cover work tables with paper, which should be removed after contamination;
use rubber gloves when working with adhesives;
During the working day, periodically wash your hands and face with warm water and dry with disposable towels;
immediately remove splashes of resin, compound and hardener that get on the skin with a gauze swab moistened with acetone, and then wash the skin with soapy water;
Do not allow persons with hypersensitive skin to work with epoxy compounds.
Eating at the place of work is strictly prohibited.
§ 10. METHODS OF MANUFACTURING MODELS CASES
One of the main operations when building a ship model is making the hull. It can be made from various materials: a whole piece of wood, glued boards, papier-mâché, tin and fiberglass.
When starting work, the ship modeler must remember that correctly executed hull contours ensure good seaworthiness of the model.
Therefore, when building the model body, you must strictly adhere to the theoretical drawing and follow the sequence of operations of the chosen method.
For tabletop and small self-propelled models, the body can be made from a whole block of wood, which should be straight-grained, without cracks or through knots. If the wood is damp, it must be dried (kept) at room temperature, but not near the stove or in the sun. Otherwise, she may be “led” and even “broken.”
The dimensions of the block must correspond to the largest dimensions of the model body: length, width and side height.
On one side of the block, using a pencil along a ruler, draw a line of the diametrical plane (the plane dividing the body in half along its length). Then the block is divided into spacing (the distance between the frames) and the outline of the deck is drawn (Fig. 22, a). Having processed the block with an ax and a plane (along the drawn contour), draw out the stem and sternpost of the model and also process it.
After this, according to the theoretical drawing, a transom is drawn on plywood, cut out with a jigsaw, coated with glue and nailed to the aft part of the blank. The lines for the location of the frames are drawn with a pencil on the sides of the blank. Then, using frame templates (Fig. 22, b), cut from plywood, the body is brought to the required dimensions using a file and sandpaper.
Before hollowing out the hull, you need to drill a series of holes along the deck and use chisels to select the wood (Fig. 23). The thickness of the sides must be at least 6-8 mm.
For large model bodies, to prevent them from being “led”, it is better to make the block in typesetting. Two options can be offered. The first is a body made of horizontally glued boards. Their thickness should correspond to the distance between the waterlines on the theoretical drawing. On each board, draw a diametrical line, spacing and draw the corresponding contour of the waterline (Fig. 24, a). Having processed the board along the contour of the waterline from the outside, you need to cut out the wood from the inside, leaving an edge 6-8 mm wide (Fig. 24, b). The last board (bottom) is not cut from the inside. The treated boards are glued into a bag (Fig. 24, V). Now it is enough to cut off the protruding corners and bring the body, using templates (Fig. 24, d), to the required dimensions.
The second option is to build a body from vertically glued boards (Fig. 24e). In this case, buttocks are drawn on the treated boards from the “side” projection of the theoretical drawing. Here, too, each board is first processed along the outer contour of the buttock and the inner part is cut out. The two outer boards are left solid. Glued and dried boards are processed as in the previous case.
Using these methods, it is possible to greatly simplify the construction of model bodies, and they turn out to be more symmetrical.
Several methods can be proposed for the manufacture of a type-setting hull; the most common and rational is the construction of the hull on a deck flooring.
First you need to make a slipway board (Fig. 25). It should be well dressed. A diametrical line is drawn on the board and divided into spacing according to the theoretical drawing. Then, from the half-latitude projection drawing, the deck is drawn onto plywood 2-3 mm thick and cut out. On the deck, you should mark the center line and the installation locations of the frames, and then make cutouts along the sides to secure the frames in them.
The deck is installed on a slipway board. To give it a longitudinal deflection, wooden blocks are placed under it. The height of each block is determined according to the theoretical drawing
Rice. 22. Marking a block of wood (A) and processing of the body according to templates
frames ( b)
Rice. 23. Hollowing out the model body
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Rice. 25. Installing the deck on a slipway board:
1 - line for measuring the height of the bars, 2 - deck, 3 - deck flooring, 4 - slipway bars, 5 - slipway board
rice.26. Sequence of manufacturing a type-setting body:
a - frame prepared for installation on deck, b- keel frame, V - installation of bosses on the keel frame, G- part of the assembled hull on the slipway
"side view". To do this, you need to connect the bow end of the hull with a straight line to the stern end. The distance between the side of the deck and the drawn line on each groove will be the height of each block. The blocks are nailed onto the slipway board, the deck is laid on them and its ends are secured with nails.
Now you can start making frames. To do this, from a theoretical drawing (the “body” projection), using tracing paper or copy paper, the frames are transferred to plywood 6-8 mm thick, then cut out with a jigsaw. The edges of the sawn frames are processed with files and sandpaper. Spikes are left in the upper part of the frames (along the sides), which will be inserted into the deck cutouts (Fig. 26, a). In the lower part of the frames, grooves are cut for installing the keel frame, which is drawn according to the theoretical drawing of the “side” projection and cut out of plywood 6-8 mm thick (Fig. 26, b).
In the bow and stern of the hull set, the size of one or two spacings are installed with bosses made of boards of soft wood - linden, alder, poplar (Fig. 26, c). The bosses are processed along the body profile with a rasp and sandpaper.
After this, the entire set is temporarily assembled, for which all the frames are inserted with tenons into the deck grooves and fastened with a keel frame.
By placing stringers on the frames, mark their installation locations. Their number depends on the size of the model. The larger the model, the more stringers.
Having completed the markings, the entire set is disassembled in order to cut out grooves in the frames and bosses for laying the stringers (Fig. 26, d). Before final assembly, windows are cut out in the deck for access to the model, and all joints are coated two or three times with nitro glue and dried. Next, all the stringers are secured using nails and glue. Having removed the dried body kit from the slipway board, treat it with a garnish file and coat the outside two or three times with nitro glue. Now you can start covering the body with 1.5 mm thick plywood or thick cardboard.
Sheathing sheets are glued and nailed. When the body dries well, the nails can be removed or pressed with a core. After treating the body with a file and sandpaper, it must be coated two or three times with nitro glue so that in the future the nitro putty will stick to it more firmly. For better strength, it can be covered with one layer of fiberglass using PN-1 or ED-5 resin.
It is very easy to build a papier-mâché enclosure. It is glued from newsprint onto a blank made using one of the methods discussed above.
To prevent the first layers of paper from sticking to the body blank, it is coated with grease or Vaseline. The paper is torn into pieces measuring approximately 60 X 80 mm. It is not recommended to cut it with scissors. The first two or three layers are applied to the blank without glue, directly on the fat layer. The best glue to use is potato starch. Pieces of paper are placed so that each next overlaps the previous one.
For small-sized cases (700-900mm), it is enough to glue 9-11 layers of paper to get sides 2.5-3 mm thick. It is necessary to glue in several stages. After applying three or four layers, you should let them dry. Then, lightly sanding with sandpaper, stick on the same amount. Repeat this process several times.
Having removed the finished hull from the blank, two or three frames are glued into it and covered with a deck. Then everything is cleaned with sandpaper and, using nitro glue, covered with gauze or nylon stocking. Then the body can be puttied and painted.
The easiest way to make a metal case is by soldering small pieces of tinned sheet metal with a thickness of 0.3-0.4 mm on a blank. You can also use thin brass for this.
Rice. 27. Making a body from tin:
A- a body made by soldering from pieces of tin, b - inserting a flat frame into the blank ; V- method of manufacturing T-frames, G- installation of T-frames; d- casing sheathing with sheets of tin, 1 - flat frame, 2 - tee frame,
3 - sheathing sheet
or copper. The pieces can be of different sizes, depending on the complexity of the body contours. In the bow and stern parts of the model, the odes will be smaller than in the middle, since the middle part of the hull has less complex contours (Fig. 27, A).
The second method is soldering the body along flat frames cut from tin and placed in the grooves of the blank (Fig. 27, b). T-shaped (T-shaped) frames are also used, as they create good strength for the hull. Such frames are made in the following way. In the middle, strips of tin 20-24 mm wide are marked and the strip is bent in half along it. Then, at a distance of 5 mm from the edge of the bent part of the strip, a second mark is made, along which the workpiece in a vice is unbent on both sides and leveled with a mallet (Fig. 27, V). Before installing the frames, cuts are made on the blank. To do this, several hacksaw blades are folded into a package equal in thickness to the width of the frames, and the middle blade should protrude by 5-6 mm. The cuts should be such that the frames are flush with the blank, this
ensures smooth contours of the body. Their upper edges are nailed to the blank with small nails (Fig. 27, d).
Having installed all the frames in their places, you can start soldering
housings made of strips of tin. For each sheet of sheathing you do
cutting from paper Having cut out a sheet of tin according to it, it must be laid
in its place and “grab” solder in three or four places to the span
goutam, and the edges of the sheet should only overlap halfway
frame (Fig. 27, d).
Having installed the first sheet of sheathing, cut out all the others one by one and also “grab” them to the frames. In this way, the entire body of the model is assembled. After this, you need to hammer it with a mallet, and then properly solder all the joints.
Before removing from the blank, the body is carefully processed with a file and sandpaper.
Now you can solder the stem and sternpost, and also install the required number of bulkheads, deadwoods and helm ports in the hull. Having cut out the required number of windows for access to the model's mechanisms, the deck is installed in place and soldered. After finishing soldering, be sure to wash the body with a solution of baking soda or warm soapy water to remove any remaining acid. Before priming, it is recommended to wipe the body with acetone or solvent.
To glue a fiberglass body, wood blanks made using one of the previously described methods are used. The finished blank is carefully processed with sandpaper, all holes and cracks are filled with putty, and then a separating layer is applied to it. To do this, you can use heated paraffin, liquefied with kerosene, or mastic for rubbing parquet floors. It is necessary to ensure that the surface of the blank is well covered with a separating layer, otherwise the fiberglass may stick to it and it will be impossible to remove it. The body is glued with polyester resin PN-1 or epoxy resins ED-5 and ED-6. For PN-1 resin, the hardening components are cobalt naphthanate, which is added to the resin at 8%, and the accelerator - hyperiz (it is added at 3%). Cobalt naphthanate is introduced into the resin first. When using epoxy resins, the plasticizer is dibutyl phthalate - 8%, and the hardener is polyethylene polyamine (10% is added).
Epoxy resins are slightly thicker than polyester resins, and it is recommended to thin them with toluene or acetone, of which 8-10% is added. 3-6 layers of fiberglass are glued onto the blank, depending on its thickness.
They do it as follows. Having coated the blank with resin, apply the first layer of fabric and carefully level it. Then they coat it again and apply a second layer of fabric. Each layer must be ironed well so that no air remains between them. Properly diluted resin hardens within 10-12 hours, so the next day, without removing the body from the blank, you can process it with files and sandpaper, and then cover it with putty.
which is made on the basis of the same resin. To do this, you need to add a filler - talc. After sanding, the body is removed from the blank. And to increase strength, 4 - 5 bulkheads are inserted. Then the deck is glued with the same resin, having previously made cutouts in it for access to the mechanisms.
§ 11 PAINTING OF MODELS
For painting models of ships and vessels, oil, enamel and nitro-enamel paints are most often used.
In order for the quality of painting to be good, it is necessary to comply with all stages of the technological process, consisting of surface preparation, priming, local and continuous puttying, sanding with sandpaper, applying paint and sanding it with thin sandpaper, polishing with pastes.
When preparing the surface of a wooden model for painting, the body is treated with a plane, file and sandpaper, and defects (burrs, cracks, fallen knots) are eliminated. Metal models are treated with files, sandpaper and degreased with soda solution or soapy water. Priming the body for oil paints for better adhesion of subsequent layers is done with special primer No. 000a, and if it is not available, you can use natural drying oil or liquid oil paint (preferably red lead). For nitro paints you can use primer No. 000, AK-20 glue, enamel and nitro varnishes.
The primer is applied to the surface two to three times. After drying, each layer is treated with fine sandpaper.
Puttying is intended to level the surface. Local puttying (filling holes, scratches) is done with thick putty. After drying, it is sanded and the model is generally puttied with liquid putty in several layers.
Composition of putty for oil paints:
1. Talc or chalk - 350 g, drying oil - 125 g, paint (preferably red lead or white lead) - 25 g;
2. Chalk - 350 g, oil varnish - 100 g; red lead - 40 g.
Thick putty is applied with a spatula, knife or piece of elastic rubber 6-8 mm thick, and liquid putty is applied with a soft brush, flute or spray.
For nitro paints, putty ASh-30, ASh-24 and ASh-32 is used.
Nitro putty can be prepared by mixing talc (baby powder) with AK-20 nitro glue, enamel or any other nitro varnish.
Sanding is necessary to eliminate roughness after puttying or painting.
At the beginning of work (after local puttying), sandpaper No. 48-80 is used ; after the first layers of continuous putty - No. 80-
120; The last layers of putty are sanded with sandpaper No. 000-
To save sandpaper, wet sanding is recommended. When using waterproof sandpaper, the surface is moistened generously with water. If there is no waterproof sandpaper, then sand it with regular sandpaper soaked in kerosene. After each grinding with kerosene, before applying the coating, the surface is thoroughly washed with soda or soapy water and dried.
The quality of a model’s painting largely depends on the practical skills of the ship modeller, on the ability to prepare the surface and on the brands of paints used.
Painting is usually done with paint sprayers of the KR brands (KR-10, KR-11, KR-12). Any compressor can be used that produces a pressure of up to 3 ati, including small-sized S-511 and S-21.
The position of the spray gun should be such that the jet from it is directed perpendicular to the surface to be painted, the distance to which should be within 250-300 mm. The gun must be moved evenly, at a constant speed. If the movement is too fast, the paint will lay down in a thin layer, and if it moves too slowly, it will be thick, which may result in smudges. The paint must be applied in successive parallel stripes. Each strip should overlap the adjacent one by 10-20 mm.
It is necessary to ensure the correct ratio of air pressure and the thickness of the paint coming from the spray gun. The air pressure should be 2-3 atm. The greater the pressure, the thicker the paint should be, and vice versa. This is determined experimentally on a test surface. Small parts can be painted with a simple spray gun. For this purpose, nitro paint is diluted quite thinly.
When painting with brushes, the type of brush hair is of no small importance. The best brushes are made from squirrel, ferret, badger and bear fur.
Before starting work, new brushes need to be braided (tied) at the base with thread or thin twine. For thick paints, the part free from binding is made shorter, for liquid paints - longer.
During painting, hold the brush at an angle of 45-55° to the surface and apply the coating with light and free movements. In this case, you need to ensure that the paint is applied in an even, thin layer and does not form streaks.
When painting a model with nitro paints, you must remember that they dry very quickly. Therefore, you should not brush over the same area twice. Strokes should be short, in one direction. If a large drop hits the surface, it must be rubbed off immediately.
Nitro paints are diluted with RDV solvents, No. 000, 647, 648 and 649. They cannot be diluted with acetone, since it dries out the paint and cracks.
Coating is usually done with oil paints in 2-3 layers, and with nitro paints in 10-15 layers,
Rice. 28. Load line:
A - for bulk carriers and tankers; b - for passenger ships
The first coat of paint helps reveal remaining defects on the prepared surface. They must be removed by repeated puttying and sanding.
Before applying each subsequent layer, the previous one must be thoroughly dried. Drying time for oil paints should be at least 24 hours.
When painting a model, polishing is the final step. It is produced with a special polishing paste for passenger cars or GOI paste. The paste is applied to a soft rag, a piece of felt or felt and with circular movements the surface is brought to a mirror shine. Then it is wiped with polishing water, kerosene or liquid oil. The color of the model should not differ from the color of real vessels of this type. We can recommend the following basic rules when choosing a tint (color).
The surface of warships is painted in various shades of ball (gray) color. To obtain it, add 5 to white - 7% black paint.
The surface part of passenger ships (hull and superstructures) is painted white. The hull of cargo and cargo-passenger ships is painted black, and the superstructure is painted white. The chimneys of ships with a white hull are white, and those with a black hull are black.
The underwater part is painted with green or red paint. It is recommended to mark the waterline with a strip of celluloid.
Now it is appropriate to recall the load line and how it should be depicted on the sides of a model of a merchant ship.
If the load line is not applied to the ship model, then at competitions during the bench evaluation of the model you can receive penalty points.
A load line is a circle or a figure resembling a comb (Fig. 28, A and b). A horizontal line is drawn through the center of the circle,
the continuation of which on the “comb” is indicated by the letter L (summer mark). This is the so-called main brand.
When sailing in winter, for the sake of safe navigation and successful fight against storms, the ship should not be overloaded. It should have a lower draft and a larger freeboard, i.e., a larger reserve of buoyancy. This is taken into account on the load line and marked with the letter
3 (winter brand).
The North Atlantic is especially inhospitable in winter; a vessel sailing there must be most lightened. The permissible draft for such navigation is marked by the ZSA line (winter mark for the North Atlantic).
Several “comb” lines are applied above the main - summer mark. When sailing in the tropics, the weather is usually favorable for the voyage and there is no danger of icing. The vessel here can take on more cargo, have a greater draft and less freeboard. This is marked by the line T (tropical precipitation).
The greater the density of water, the greater its buoyancy force. When a ship from the sea enters a river, its draft increases. Therefore, two more lines are marked on the “comb” - P (fresh mark) and TP (tropical fresh mark).
According to international rules, which are mandatory for all maritime powers in the world, the shape of the load line is the same everywhere. The only difference is in the letters. Soviet merchant ships are marked with the letters P and S (register mark of the USSR).
Load lines of foreign merchant ships are designated by letters of the English alphabet. For example, L and R stand for the English company Lloyd's Register, A and B for the American Bureau of Shipping, etc.
On ships that transport timber, as well as cargo and passengers,
additional marks are applied.
On timber carriers, an additional drawing is made on the load line towards the stern of the circle with the addition of the letter L (L) - timber freeboard - to all letter names.
The load line is welded in the form of steel strips onto the side of the ship at the midship frame on each side and painted in a color different from the color of the freeboard. For example, if the side is black, then the stamp is painted with white paint; if the side is ball-colored, then the stamp is painted green or black.
Load lines are not marked on warships. On them, the stems on both sides have so-called deepening marks, or, as they are also called, draft marks. They should in no case be confused with the load line, since they only serve to measure the actual bow and stern draft at a given time.
Indentation marks are also applied on large ships, on both sides
at amidships, in addition to the load line
Typically, the marks of the recess on one side are indicated in the metric system, on the other - in 6 feet. In the first case, the height of the numbers and the distance between them is 1 dm, in the second - 0.5 feet.