Easy blind area. Five common mistakes when building a blind area: what professionals do not recommend doing

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A blind area is a structure whose main purpose is to protect the foundation of a house from the effects of adverse environmental factors. If it is present, water cannot seep to the base of the building and destroy it. In addition, the blind area often performs a purely decorative function. A variety of materials can be used to install such a structure.Depending on this, you select

What to consider when drawing up a project

The requirements for structures of this type are mainly as follows:

    The blind area must be moisture-proof. Otherwise, it will not fulfill its main function - to protect the underground part of the foundation of the house from destruction.

    The blind area should be constructed using materials that are resistant to cracking under severe temperature changes. The climate in most of Russia is, as is known, sharply continental. And the range of temperatures outside, even within one season, can vary quite a lot.

Next, we will consider different technologies for constructing a blind area. SNiP - rules that, however, must be strictly observed when constructing a protective strip of any type. The design of the blind area should be drawn up taking into account the fact that:

    ribbonmust have a slope of at least 2 degrees in the direction from the wall of the house;

    Should be in the range from 70 cm to 2 m;

    A small temperature gap of 1-2 cm should be left between the blind area and the foundation.

The slope of the blind area during its arrangement can be done both at the stage of backfilling and compacting the substrate, and when laying the base material. The width of the tape itself is chosen taking into account, among other things, the fact that it should protrude 20-30 cm beyond the roof overhang. Otherwise, water flowing from the roof will seep under the blind area and spoil the foundation.

What materials can be used

The procedure is relatively simple -device for the blind area of ​​the house. With your own handsThis design can be done without much difficulty.Most often, blind areas around buildings are poured, of course, fromcement-sandmixtures. The latter, according to technology, is supposed to be prepared in a 1x3 ratio. The substrate is made using crushed stone and sand. Paving stones can also be used to create a blind area. Sometimes it is simply covered with rubble. In this case, tightness is ensured by arranging a clay substrate.

The choice of a specific material depends primarily, of course, on the financial capabilities of the home owner. The cheapest blind area option is crushed stone. Pouring a concrete strip costs a little more. When used, you can assemble not only a reliable, but also a very beautiful blind area. However, this option will, of course, be quite expensive for the owners of the house.

In addition to cost, when choosing material for a blind area, home owners should take into account the design features of the building itself. So, for example, for a wooden house, a clay blind area may be more suitable. In this case, the top layer of crushed stone can be covered with earth at the final stage. As a result, the space around the house will look as natural as possible. For a concrete building with plastered walls, a cement blind area is most likely best suited. Around a large brick cottage, it is, of course, worthwhile to arrange a protective strip of wood. This will give the exterior of the building a finished look.

When choosing a material for a blind area, it is worth considering one more quite important factor. It is believed that if the height of the base is 50 cm or more, it is more advisable to install a concrete or tiled structure around the house. If the above-ground part of the foundation protrudes above the surface to a height of 30 cm, crushed stone backfill tape can also be used for protection.

Basic technologies for constructing a blind area

So, the blind area around the house can be built by pouring a cement mixture or laying tiles or clay. But there are other, more original ways to install such structures. For example, when arranging a blind area, geotextiles, multi-colored pebbles and even glass bottles can be used. In any case, when building a blind area, the chosen technology should be followed exactly. Otherwise, after some time, this structural element of the building will have to be repaired or even completely rebuilt.

Insulated option

Most often, home owners in Russia arrange conventional blind areas around them, consisting of two layers: a substrate and the main upper part. But sometimes insulated versions of a similar design are built around the perimeter of the building. Such blind areas, of course, are more expensive than conventional ones. However, in some cases their arrangement is necessary. For example, it is mandatory to erect insulated blind areas around buildings built on heaving soils. It is also customary to equip similar structures to protect columnarand shallow strip foundations. Later in the article we will consider, among other things,and technology for installing an insulated blind area.

Main stages of installation

Actually, the technology itself for constructing a blind area when using different materials is practically the same. This element is usually installed in several steps:

    marking is carried out;

    a “trough” is dug for the blind area;

    formwork is installed;

    a substrate is placed at the bottom of the “trough”;

    The base material is laid or poured.

    Below we will considertechnologies for constructing a blind area from paving slabsand crushed stone, as well as pouring it from concrete.

    How to mark up correctly

    When performing this procedure, be sure to use a plumb line. With its help, at the first stage, the projection point of the roof is found. To do this, climb the ladder to the level of the roof, apply a plumb line to its edge and make a mark on the ground. Next, they retreat 30 cm in the direction from the building and drive a peg into this place. Having thus determined the required width of the blind area, set guidelines along the entire perimeter of the building in increments of 1 m, making the necessary indentation from the wall. After all the pegs are driven into the ground, they are connected with a cord.

    Preparing the base

    This procedure, like marking, is performed almost the same for all types of blind areas. The preparation is carried out as follows:

    The soil is removed from inside the markings. This procedure should be performed using a sharp bayonet shovel. With this tool, you first need to trim the soil along the cord. Then the middle part of the “trough” is selected.

    The bottom of the “trough” is compacted. It is most convenient to perform this operation using a shovel.

The total depth of the “trough” under the blind area should be at least 25 cm.

Substrate for cement structures

Construction of a concrete blind areainvolves the use of formwork. The easiest way to make this structure is from boards 1.5-2 cm thick. Such lumber simply needs to be installed on an edge along the perimeter of the “trough” and secured in this position with support posts.

After the formwork has been assembled, you can begin to actually arrange the blind area itself. This procedure is performed as follows:

    Roofing material is laid in two layers at the bottom of the trench.

    The sandy “cushion” is falling asleep. This element of the blind area “pie” is considered mandatory. Without a “cushion”, the concrete part of the blind area will subsequently begin to crack. The thickness of the sand layer in the substrate should be 5-10 cm.

    The sand is thoroughly compacted by moistening it with water from a hose with a shower nozzle.

    A layer of crushed stone is poured on top of the sand. Its thickness should be 5 cm.

    The crushed stone is leveled and compacted with a shovel.

Expansion seams

Technology for constructing a blind area around the houseinvolves the use of these additional elements in its design.One of the properties of concrete is its ability to expand when the temperature rises. Because of this, cracking of the cement blind area may occur. To avoid this,in the formwork around the entire perimeter of the house, not too thick bars should be installed across, in increments of about two meters (per edge). It is impossible to fill a concrete blind area with a continuous tape.

You should also make an expansion joint along the wall of the house. For its arrangement, you can use foamed polyethylene. This material just needs to be applied to the wall in the area where the blind area adjoins. But it’s easier to make a compensation layer using roofing felt laid at the bottom of the “trough”. This material must be lifted onto the wall to the height of the future blind area.

Reinforcement

Blind area technologyalso involves strengthening through reinforcement. Using this procedure, the risk of tape cracking in the future can be minimized.Reinforcement significantly extends the service life of the blind area. To strengthen the tape, a metal mesh with a mesh of 5 cm is usually used. This material is cut according to the widthfuture blind areaand laid on top of crushed stone around the entire perimeter.

Technology for constructing a blind area made of concrete

Cement mortar forI'm pouring the formwork lIt is best to cook in a concrete mixer. In this case, it will turn out to be of higher quality. It is worth pouring the blind area in one step. In this case, it will be more durable. When pouring, the slope should be constantly monitored. At the end of the procedure, the tape should be allowed to dry for about two hours. Then the blind area should be covered with plastic wrap for about 2 weeks.

Tile strip

Technology of the blind areain this case it will be slightly different from the method presented above. To the bottom of the trenchfor tiled constructioncrushed stone is poured in a layer of 5-7 cm. Clay is laid on top of it. For obvious reasons, there will be a lot of seams between the tiles on such a blind area. That is, paving stones will not be able to ensure at least relative tightness of the tape like concrete. In this case, the role of waterproofing agent will be performed by clay. The thickness of its layer in the substrate should be at least 5-10 cm. The clay must be compacted using a tamper. You should also put a PVC film on top of it. This will provide additional insulation.

A layer of sand is poured on top of the film in the substrate. A cement-sand mixture prepared in a 4x1 ratio is poured onto it. The thickness of the concrete layer in this case should be 3 cm. The poured area is leveled with a mop. The paving stones on the blind area should be laid away from you with the seams bandaged. A gap of 1 cm should be left between individual tiles.

Crushed stone tape

Technology for constructing a blind area from paving slabs, is thus relatively uncomplicated. But it’s even easier to make a protective tape around the house from clay and crushed stone. Such a blind area can turn out to be very reliable. But of course, only if certain filling rules are observed.

Under crushed stone constructiona “trough” is also pre-dug. Next, the bottom of the latter is carefully compacted and leveled with a slope. At the next stage, clay is poured into the “trough” in a layer of 15 cm. This material should also be laid with a slight slope towards the wall of the house. In this case, roofing material or a thick PVC film is spread on top of the clay (with a slight overlap on the foundation). You can secure the material to the surface of the base, for example, with slats. The easiest way to glue roofing felt joints is with bitumen.

A 10-15 cm layer of sand is poured over the waterproofing. The resulting “cushion” should be compacted with water and leveled with a slope. A layer of geotextile can be laid on top of the sand. This will prevent weeds from growing on the blind area. Next, the crushed stone itself (with a tamper) is placed in the “trough”.

How to make an insulated structure

In this case, the usual tlaying technologyblind areas.HoweveratherarrangementIn addition, thermal insulation material is used. As the latter, it is allowed to use both expanded polystyrene and expanded clay.

The first layer of clay is placed on the bottom of the “trough”. Next, crushed stone and sand are poured (with a tamper). Then the selected insulation is installed. Expanded clay should be poured in a fairly thick layer. stacked as closely as possible to each other. Roofing felt is laid on top of the insulation. Next, a layer of sand is poured. At the final stage, concrete mixture is poured or tiles are laid.

Instead of a conclusion

The technologies for constructing blind areas made of paving stones, concrete or clay are therefore simple. However, it is imperative to comply with SNiP standards when constructing such structures. If the “pie” contains a blind area with a sand cushion and a waterproofing agent, it will be as durable as possible. Compliance with the slope during installation will ensure the best performance of this element of the building structure.

Today we will continue the topic of the foundation and plinth of your house, or rather, we will “close it” with an article about how to build a concrete blind area correctly and inexpensively with your own hands for your home. We will look at the simplest and most inexpensive method of device concrete blind area(after all, our task is to build an inexpensive house with our own hands, which is not inferior in reliability to an expensive house. Remember?).

So what do we have? The construction of our house is completed: the roof - it's all finished. It's time to start building the blind area. In fact, the blind area can be made almost any time after the walls are laid. But the most optimal time, in our opinion, is when you begin the final exterior decoration of your home. If you plan to cladding the base, then the blind area should be done after this work has been completed.

Why do you need a blind area?

If you do not have enough funds for the final finishing of the house, then blind area We still recommend doing it. In any case, the blind area should be done before the cold weather. Then your house will “overwinter and welcome spring” without any problems.

And now - the main functions of the blind area:

  1. Decorative effect, a sense of architectural completeness;
  2. In addition to being a decorative element of the house, the blind area protects the foundation from external waters: melt water, rain. Retaining water and diverting it to the storm drain (this is what you plan to do) is the main task of the blind area;
  3. In addition, the blind area allows you to reduce freezing of the soil underneath it, and, accordingly, around the house. Those. the blind area guards the heat of the house;
  4. Reducing soil freezing entails reducing the likelihood of soil heaving. It is recommended to do this on swelling soils. True, we decided not to do this;
  5. If there is no blind area and the soil comes close to the base, then in addition to excessive moisture, plant roots can also cause damage to the foundation.

How to make a blind area correctly?

The simplest option is a concrete blind area with a width of 60 cm, which surrounds your house on all sides.

In order for the blind area to fully fulfill its purpose, it is necessary to follow several basic rules:

  • the width of the blind area should not match or be less than the roof overhang. Minimum width of the blind area = roof overhang (eaves) + 20cm;
  • the blind area should continuously encircle the entire house. Then the base of the house (and the basement) will be protected from moisture penetration;
  • the wider the blind area, the better the function of protection against water penetration will be performed;
  • the blind area should be performed with a slight slope. The minimum slope from the house towards the ground, which will ensure water drainage, is 1.5 degrees. The slope may be greater. It depends on the base coating. The slope can be formed both at the stage of creating the underlying layer and at the stage of laying the coating. We will describe below what the underlying layer and coating are.

DIY concrete blind area

The durability of your foundation, the minimum expenditure of both money and time on repairing the foundation, basement and blind area and the absence of “headaches” after you have finished building your house with your own hands depend on the blind area, carried out according to all the rules - and this is probably , the most important!

The blind area is two structural layers:

  • underlying layer. The main task is to create an even, compacted base for the coating. Material used: clay, sand, small crushed stone. The material for the underlying layer depends on the covering material. Thickness - up to 20mm;
  • coating. The main task is water resistance and resistance to the destructive effects of water. Material used: clay (clay is a material that can be used as both an underlying layer and a coating), concrete, asphalt mixture, small cobblestones. Thickness - up to 10 cm.

This is true for any type of blind area. In this regard, we will tell you in what order the work should be performed for concrete blind area structures.

  1. We carry out markings for the future blind area. We talked about the minimum width of the blind area in this article above. The width of the blind area in our house is 100cm;
  2. We remove and compact the soil around the perimeter of the building. Usually the soil is removed during the zero construction cycle. When constructing a blind area, you need to prepare the soil exactly for the width of the future blind area in accordance with the markings. In this case, you need to consider what material you will make the blind area from. For a concrete blind area, the soil must be removed to a depth of 20-25 cm - the depth “at the bayonet of a shovel”;
  3. Sometimes it is recommended to treat the roots of plants under the removed soil with herbicides, which can subsequently cause harm to the blind area. This is at your discretion - we did not do this;
  4. We make formwork from boards. For formwork we use boards 20mm thick. We talked about how to properly make removable formwork from boards (the principle is the same) in the article;
  5. Place a small layer of clay on the compacted soil. Level and compact the clay;
  6. We lay a layer of sand 10 cm thick. The sand must be thoroughly compacted. To do this, it is effective to shed the sand with a layer of water. Don't overdo it - there's clay underneath! Compact the sand especially carefully near the foundation.
  7. Now we lay crushed stone in a layer of 6-7 cm;
  8. To strengthen the blind area, we reinforce it with reinforcement mesh (see photo) in increments of 100 mm. It is typical for concrete to withstand compressive loads. Reinforcement allows the blind area to also effectively withstand tensile loads;
  9. At the junction of the blind area with the plinth, it is necessary to make a seam, which is called a compensation seam. It is also called deformation or temperature. The expansion joint will protect the base and blind area from destruction during soil subsidence. In this case, the blind area will sag or fall along the prepared seam without causing damage to the base. The width of the expansion joint is 1-1.5 cm. We fill this gap with a mixture of sand and fine gravel, bitumen, mastic or two layers of roofing felt. Some builders use foamed polyethylene to fill the seam. The diameter of the tourniquet should be 25% larger than the width of the seam so that the tourniquet fits tightly into the gap. A special feature when laying a rope: its top should be at a depth equal to 1/2 the width of the seam. To make laying the bundle easier, you can use a piece of plywood. And although we talked about this method of filling an expansion joint, we did not use it ourselves. We used sealant;
  10. When pouring a blind area with concrete across the blind area, an expansion (temperature) joint should be constructed every 2-3 meters (the distance depends on the likelihood of soil swelling). Expansion joints protect the concrete blind area from possible ruptures in winter. Wooden slats mounted on an edge are suitable for these purposes. The slats must be installed so that their top surface coincides with the surface of the concrete. IMPORTANT! Consider the slope of the blind area! To protect the slats from rotting, we treated them with waste oil (used oil). Wooden slats can also be processed;
  11. Expansion (temperature) joints must also be installed in the corners of the house;
  12. We put and ;
  13. Level the concrete base. Wooden slats pre-installed to create expansion joints play the role of beacons that should be followed when leveling the concrete;
  14. It will give maximum strength to the formwork. Ironing done using the wet method will give the blind area for your home maximum moisture resistance;
  15. And the final stage: cover the concrete surface with a cloth, wetting it with water from time to time. This will keep the concrete from drying out until it is completely cured. If you are making a blind area during the rainy season, and this is exactly what happened to us, you can do without additional moisture. Daily rains will do their job;
  16. In a week, the correct concrete blind area for your home is ready.

Repair of concrete blind area

If you have properly completed the foundation, plinth and blind area for your home, you should not have problems for a long time.

However, it happens that cracks appear on the blind area or damage takes up a significant area. What to do in these cases?

  1. Small cracks should be filled with liquid cement mortar (1:1 or 1:2);
  2. Larger cracks must be cut out to their full depth and cleaned of contaminants. Then fill the prepared cracks with mastic of the following composition: 70% bitumen BND-90/130 or BND-60/90, 10% crushed slag and 15% asbestos. Cracks filled with mastic should be sprinkled with sand.
  3. If the damage to the concrete blind area is significant, it is necessary to restore it with fresh concrete. To do this, clean the surface to be repaired from dirt and prime it. For priming, use cement mortar (1:1 or 1:2). Then lay fresh mortar and level it. Next, you need to prevent the laid concrete from drying before it hardens. In other words, periodically moisten it or cover it with plastic wrap to prevent it from drying out.

IMPORTANT! It is more effective to repair the blind area in spring or autumn in cool weather. If you need to repair the blind area in the summer, choose the morning hours for this. During the day, under the influence of high temperatures, due to the expansion of concrete, the cracks will decrease. This will prevent you from completing your repair as efficiently as possible.

The blind area is a continuous concrete covering that is located along the perimeter of the building. The device is done with your own hands at the final stage of building a house, when the building has already been erected. If it is planned to finish the base with any decorative coating, the blind area is arranged only after finishing is completed.

Why do you need a blind area?

For the manufacture of structures, the following are often used: asphalt, tiles or paving stones, as well as other decorative coatings, but the most common and cheapest option is concrete. Cement serves for a long time without the need to repair the coating, and has high technical and operational characteristics.

In the absence of experience in construction work, one might think that the blind area has an exclusively decorative role, but it is intended for a number of practical tasks.

To prevent all negative phenomena and consequences, a blind area is used

Functions of the blind area:

  • decorative Improves the appearance and overall attractiveness of the structure, creating a complete design;
  • protective. When the structure is formed correctly, it creates high-quality protection from water entering the foundation. It is a protective element that does not allow moisture to come into contact with the load-bearing foundation of the house. It is important to equip the element at an angle so that water and thawed snow enter the sewer system;
  • thermal insulation. The purpose of the structure is little known, but important, as a significant amount of heat escapes through the base. The blind area inhibits heat loss and prevents soil freezing. Temperature control prevents additional loads on the base;
  • protection against heaving of the earth. Thanks to concrete, it is possible to reduce the depth of soil freezing, and accordingly, swelling will be significantly reduced. There are no soil shifts under the foundation, which reduces the risk of deformation.

Construction of a blind area around the house

The foundation blind area with your own hands is laid in two key layers:


There are also intermediate stages that are important in the process of building a blind area with your own hands:

  • leveling layer of clay;
  • double sanding: after the clay layer and before laying the tiles;
  • laying crushed stone to prevent shrinkage.

A more economical option has differences - the installation of 1 layer of sand and a surface screed.

To achieve the best result and fulfill the assigned tasks, the blind area of ​​the foundation with your own hands must be carried out in strict adherence to the rules:

  • the width of the structure must exceed the length of the protruding part of the roof overhang. If sandy soil predominates on the site, it is recommended to increase the width by 30 cm more than the cornice, in total the value should exceed 60 cm. Most often, the width is up to 80 cm, but when arranging on heaving soils, it is recommended to arrange a blind area of ​​up to 100 cm;

It must be tightly adjacent to the outer part of the foundation
  • a slope is necessarily formed. The arrangement of a blind area with a slope begins with the first or second layer. The direction of the slope is always away from the building. Which slope of the blind area surface to choose in a particular case depends on the type of coating. If you plan to pour concrete, a slope of 3-10° is sufficient, for paving stones – 5-15°. Regardless of the material, the slope must be at least 1.5°;
  • the structure must be continuous and located around the entire perimeter. It is highly undesirable to make gaps, they reduce the quality of the final product;
  • The construction of a house connected to a blind area with a reinforcement frame is prohibited. Both systems have different degrees of draft. To compensate for the movement of the house, a 1-1.2 cm seam should be left. It is better to cover the gap with sealant, bitumen and fill it with geotextile. The easiest option is to fill it with sand.

When is what kind of blind area needed?

Installing a blind area around the house with your own hands using any type of structure will help achieve the listed functions, but the durability of all coatings differs significantly. The most durable and reliable is a monolithic product, but it requires financial, time and physical costs. Similar problems occur with asphalt.

A relatively simple option is a self-leveling cement base; it is easy to make and affordable. An important advantage comes down to effective thermal insulation. Existing disadvantages: used exclusively for stable soils; monolithic options have low decorative properties.


The blind area also has architectural and aesthetic functions in the perception of the house as a whole.

Blind areas with soft crushed stone and similar coverings are easy to carry out, but require frequent repairs. The service life does not exceed 7 years. Based on the fragility of the coating, it is laid as a temporary material. The best solution is to use semi-rigid structures; tiles are one of the most popular materials.

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base includes several basic rules:

  • a high bend of waterproofing is performed, preferably to the level of crushed stone. This will help prevent sand from being sprayed;
  • pillow thickness – 30 cm, for clay soils – 20 cm;
  • installation of gutters for water drainage;
  • the crushed stone layer is laid 3 times thicker than the sand layer;
  • the second layer of sand increases 2 times in comparison with the first sand layer;
  • The slope level should be maintained at about 4 cm.

Types of blind areas and their purpose

You can make a blind area at home with your own hands from various materials, but they are all divided into 3 groups:

  • tough. It includes monolithic concrete structures, as well as other coatings with a self-leveling manufacturing method: asphalt, cement mortar. The monolithic version lasts a long time, sometimes up to 150 years, but is relatively expensive. Insulation of the foundation and blind area is carried out exclusively when using rigid types of blind area;

More reliable and durable blind area with waterproofing in various designs
  • semi-rigid. The bedding is a cushion with a multi-layer laying of granular substances, and paving stones or tiles are laid on top. Less common are natural stones, porcelain tiles, reinforced concrete slabs, etc. Self-leveling options are characterized by simplicity of design and lower costs, but are not used for heaving soils;
  • soft. It is based on a multi-layer cushion, which is covered with a layer of crushed stone on top. It is the cheapest and most labor-intensive option for making a blind area, but the coating lasts only 5-7 years. A significant advantage is the ability to operate in any region, regardless of climate and soil type.

It is optimal to use semi-rigid options, because they require replacement every 20-30 years and they are unpretentious to installation conditions. They are easily repaired and do not require significant installation costs. Among all varieties, semi-rigid blind areas have the best appearance.

Determining the parameters of the blind area

For the final selection of the type of structure and its characteristics, the technical parameters of the product should be taken into account:

  • width. 20 cm more from the end of the roof slope, often measured from the drain;
  • depth level. The main influence is the depth of soil freezing in winter. It is recommended to lay the cushion below the frost line. The minimum depth is 10 cm, but if there is load, the layer is increased to 15-20 cm;
  • incline. The degree of slope depends on the amount of precipitation in the region and the ease of use of the path. It is optimal to arrange a tilt of 2-3°;
  • height. To prevent flooding of the house, it is better to make the blind area 5 cm higher from the soil. It is better to equip the edges with borders to protect against mechanical damage and the negative influence of the rhizome.

The blind area around the house is a simple structural element that greatly extends the life of the building.

Preparatory work

To form a blind area yourself, it is important to prepare well:

  1. Carry out markings.
  2. Carry out the excavation phase.
  3. The use of bulk mixtures that are laid as bedding.

We mark out the area for installation of the blind area

Wooden and metal pegs are used to mark the area. 1 m is measured from the base and rods are driven into the corners of the structure to a depth of 50 cm. The deepening of the rods is mandatory, because they will be guides for carrying out excavation work. A rope is pulled between the rods.

If you plan to build a large building, it is recommended to install intermediate pegs at a distance of 2.5-3 m.

Excavation stage

Removing soil is done manually; ordering an excavator is economically unprofitable and pointless. According to the drawn up markings, a trench is dug to the previously selected depth. The layers are removed evenly; now it is not necessary to make a slope.


A blind area in the general sense is a cornice attached to a wall, covering the horizontal angle between it and the ground or floor.

The foundation of the building and the blind area have different coefficients of expansion and shrinkage rates, in order to prevent the destruction of structures, a gap of about 1 cm is left between them. After digging the required depth, a damping layer is laid using polyurethane tape. To prevent the earth from shrinking, the bottom should be compacted with a hand or specialized tool. The device can be made by hand from a rod and a flat thick sheet at the end. To reduce time, a log will be useful.

Laying a pillow under the blind area

Waterproofing must be laid at the bottom of the dug trench, which is covered with a layer of sand (100-200 mm). The thickness of the layer directly depends on the type of blind area and its depth. It is important to level and compact the sand. To simplify the work, you can fill the area with water, then it will be easier to compact the sand, but then you will have to wait for the material to dry before further work.

For areas with high water levels, it is recommended to install a drainage system - this is a tube with numerous holes on top, which is laid around the perimeter of the entire building. It is connected to a sewer, preferably a storm drain.

A layer of gravel of fraction 2-5 is poured on top of the sand, and crushed stone with a similar grain size is poured on top. The crushed stone cushion will help reduce the consumption of concrete for the construction of the outer layer. Crushed stone can be replaced with other types of stone, including broken brick, the main thing here is that the material is homogeneous.


Foundation blind area - a low but wide cornice of the basement lying on the ground with a slope

How to properly make a blind area around the house?

The type of installation differs slightly depending on the type of blind area and the material used. The soft structure does not require auxiliary work, and to arrange a rigid blind area you will have to lay 2 waterproofing films.

Installation of a rigid blind area

The installation of hydro- and thermal insulation must precede the pouring of the concrete mixture. Insulation helps increase the life of the structure. When choosing a material, it is worth considering resistance to moisture and high resistance to mechanical damage. Foam plastic and polystyrene foam boards are most often used.

The formwork is installed before laying the insulating films. To form the formwork, wooden panels coated with waterproofing from the inside are suitable. The tree will be protected from moisture that enters the pit along with the concrete. Otherwise, the wood will absorb some of the water and dehydrate the cement. Lack of moisture in concrete will lead to cracks and rapid wear.

Installation is carried out as follows:


If the procedure is performed in cold areas, it is better to lay 2 layers of insulating material with layers bandaged. The technique prevents the appearance of cold bridges.

Before pouring the formwork, a frame should be made or a reinforcing mesh should be used. The metal base is made of a rod with a cross-section of 8-10 mm and cells of 10-15 cm. To protect the metal from corrosion, all reinforcement must be in a concrete layer. The frame is installed on plastic supports, then it will be located deep in the solution.

Concrete with grade M400-M500 is laid. A one-time filling of the entire perimeter will help ensure the strength of the structure. Before mixing the solution, care should be taken to ensure a quick flow of concrete. It is also convenient to use special machines with a ready-made solution.

At the pouring stage, it is important to take care of creating a uniform layer; the entire composition should be carefully smoothed out. At home, a shovel or mop will help smooth concrete. After laying, the mixture is pierced, this helps remove air. When the layer can be removed, the surface is leveled. The edges of the formwork act as guides.

At the end of the work, it is recommended to sprinkle the surface with a small layer of cement; it will increase the quality of hardening of the material. Additionally, the blind area is covered with polyethylene. Once every 2 days the concrete should be moistened with water. Complete hardening occurs after approximately 28 days.


The blind area should frame the house with a continuous strip: any gap will attract harmful factors, which will entail increased weakening of the foundation

Installation of a soft blind area

To create a soft type of structure, a layer of waterproofing is initially laid, which is lined on top of a sand cushion. One of the best insulation options is Rubemast; it is wear-resistant. Installation is carried out with an overlap of 15 cm; it is important to ensure that the film overlaps the walls. All joints are coated with bitumen mastic; the tightness is ensured by heating the joints with a burner.

A mixture of crushed stone and sand (about 10 cm) is poured on top of the insulating material. Leveling and compaction must be performed on top of loose layers. Throughout the entire installation process, a slight slope of the surface should be maintained. The top layer is crushed stone with a fraction of up to 5 cm; it is additionally compacted.

DIY semi-rigid blind area: step-by-step instructions

It is possible to manually create a semi-rigid structure even without extensive experience. It is most often installed on a bed of sand with crushed stone, followed by a layer of sand (8-10 cm). Before starting work with paving slabs, you should understand the layout of the elements and decide on the direction of laying. Any type of layout can be chosen, the result will not deteriorate. The basic rule is to create the smallest possible joint seams in thickness.

Laying technology:


How to repair a blind area?

If a person did not know how to lay tiles or pour concrete correctly, or if the recommendations were ignored, the blind area will end up with defects. They may appear immediately or over time, but in each case repairs will have to be made.

Restoration work directly depends on the type and complexity of the defect:

  • cracks up to 1 mm do not need to be repaired at all, damage does not lead to critical changes, operational parameters remain at the same level;
  • cracks up to 3 mm can be easily eliminated with a cement solution, the proportion with water is 1 to 1. The solution creates a high-strength layer to fully protect the foundation. Before pouring concrete, the crack should be cleaned of dirt and dust and treated with a primer. Alternative options are applying sealant or putty;
  • holes larger than 3 cm cannot always be repaired. It is better to initially determine the maintainability and strength of the blind area. In case of significant damage, it is worth removing the top layer of concrete and re-compacting the cushion. Then the screed is re-formed;
  • Cement crumbling is removed with a water-cement mixture.

In general, taking into account modern construction achievements, preference should be given to semi-rigid blind areas
  • Before that, it is important to carry out the stage of drawing up a drawing, calculating the load and preparing the site. The concrete pouring stage itself, from a technological point of view, is not difficult to perform if you carry out the preparation;
  • if the region has high groundwater levels or weak bearing capacity of the soil, this is one of the best solutions;
  • with limited free space, you can set up a workshop or garage in the basement. Previously considered to preserve the site and improve the performance of the building;
  • When constructing premises with low loads, it is effective to use block construction. much simpler than brick, and in addition it will be warmer and lighter. An even lighter material with lower thermal conductivity is a foam block, but before you build a bathhouse from foam blocks, you should take care of the insulation;
  • Lightweight and large blocks will help you quickly build housing; you can build a house from aerated concrete with your own hands in a short time, and during the operation stage the owner’s payments for coolants are significantly reduced.

Conclusion

The blind area can be done with your own hands, but despite the simplicity of the design, you should treat it responsibly. A properly executed rigid coating can last up to 150 years, and a semi-rigid structure can last up to 30 years, and if the rules are not followed, the wear rate increases significantly.

The blind area plays an important role in guaranteeing comfortable and long-term use of a private home. It can protect the foundation structure and the soil around the house from moisture. When snow melts or during precipitation, the accumulation of water near a private house can lead to erosion of the top layer of soil.

In order for the blind area to reliably protect the foundation of the house, its minimum width should be 0.8 meters.

Some builders are of the opinion that in the process of arranging a drainage system, you can do without. It should be noted that they are deeply mistaken. The drainage system will protect the soil from water near the foundation that flows from the roof. However, it will not be able to protect against precipitation.

The quality is quite important when using a shallow base, in which the base is located quite close to the surface, and water can easily reach its depth. When the sole gets wet, it will lose its strength and begin to sag unevenly, destroying and deforming the base. It is important that in the case of making buried foundations, it is also necessary to make a blind area. It should always be made, regardless of the type of soil, foundation design and other conditions.

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How to properly make a blind area around a private house?

In order to make a blind area around a private house that will serve for a long period of time, reliably protecting the foundation, it is necessary to select all the materials correctly and adhere to construction technology.

First of all, you should choose the width of such a structure. This structure must protect the base, so it must be made as wide as possible - the further away from the building moisture is absorbed into the soil, the less likely it is to damage the structures present on the site. There are standards according to which the minimum width of this protective structure is 0.8 m. The maximum value is not standardized and will depend on the wishes of the owner of the site.

In addition to the fact that such a structure performs a protective function, it can also serve as a path around the house. This should be taken into account when choosing the width, so that in the future you do not need to walk sideways along it or press against the wall. Based on this, we can conclude that the acceptable width of the blind area, which meets all existing requirements, will be in the range of 1.5-2 m.

The second important parameter of the blind area is the slope, which will ensure water flows away from the walls of a private house. Previously, the slope was 60-100 mm per 100 mm width. For example, the edge of a blind area, whose width is 1 m, should have a height of 60-100 mm next to the wall of the house, and the other edge of the structure should be flush with the ground. On a fairly steep slope, water can drain very quickly.

It is worth noting that moving around such a structure will be quite difficult. If you make the slope smaller, water will be able to flow slower or linger on the surface, and you will be able to walk with greater comfort. A compromise between efficiency and convenience can be considered a slope of 20 mm per 1 m of width. When moving, it will not be noticeable, and the water will be able to completely flow down without lingering on the surface.

In order to remove water, a slope of 15 mm per 1 m of width is sufficient if the surface of the structure is smooth and level. This surface is not very comfortable to walk on in winter, as it is quite slippery. If during the construction process you use a material that has a rough surface, for example, FEM, the slope should be at least 20 mm per 1 m.

If the blind area is planned to be built not around a private house, but around a garage, at the entrance its slope should be made large (approximately 30 mm per 1 m). This will make it possible to protect the surface as much as possible from water, which can quickly drain without soaking or freezing in winter. Consequently, the entrance to the garage will always be protected from ice and puddles.

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Necessary materials for the manufacture of this design

There are several ways to make a blind area. In each case, different materials are used. The most common structure is reinforced concrete.

First of all, you need to clean the area for the blind area. After this, the reinforcing bars (Ø6 mm) must be laid in the form of a mesh, which has cell dimensions of 30x30 cm. They can be connected to each other using knitting wire.

Before making a blind area, it is necessary to prepare the base for it. Along the perimeter of a private house along the width of the blind area, the top soil layer should be removed (to a depth of 13 cm). Near the walls of the basement, the depth should be made a little greater so that the poured concrete can flow towards the private house, slightly squeezing it. There is no need to additionally attach the structure to the house.

Next, you need to mark the boundaries of the future structure, hammer in the pegs, and pull the cord across them. A 5 cm thick layer of sand should be poured onto the bottom of the trench. This sand cushion will be the basis for the concrete. If the existing soil on the site is sandy, there is no need to add a layer of sand. It is necessary to mount the formwork on the cushion, lay the reinforcing mesh and pour the concrete. It is important to ensure that the reinforcement is located in the concrete base. To do this you will need to lift it slightly.

Some builders use ash as a material, that is, a product of coal combustion at thermal power plants. It must be handled with care, as it can be radioactive, and this can affect the health of people living in a private home.

When the poured concrete solution has completely hardened, you will need to lay a coating on it. For coating, you can use FEM or granite paving stones. FEMs vary in appearance and quality. Acid-resistant bricks are of the highest quality. They withstand the stress of climatic conditions and walking. Ordinary FEMs do not have strength, therefore their service life in most cases is short - after 5 years there will be no trace of their original appearance. The optimal service period should be at least 10 years.

Paving stones can be a good choice for covering the structure being manufactured.

It is not only durable and strong, but is also produced in different colors, which makes it possible to use it in the form of a mosaic, laying out a variety of patterns. It is worth knowing that it also has some drawback - high cost.

Required items:

  1. Fittings.
  2. Wooden boards.
  3. Knitting wire.
  4. Cement not lower than M400 grade.
  5. Crushed stone.
  6. Sand.
  7. Water.
  8. FEM or paving stones.
  9. Ruberoid.

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Existing features of making a blind area around a private house

When building a blind area, there may be some nuances that you definitely need to pay attention to:

You should not start building the blind area immediately after making the base. When backfilling, soil is placed in the trench that was previously removed from it (clay, black soil, etc.). All soils will subside to some extent, so you need to wait a while for them to subside completely.

If you do not wait for subsidence right away, then when moisture gets on the soil, it can sag, deforming it, which can lead to cracks on the surface. To avoid this phenomenon, you can backfill with sand, which allows water to pass through well. If it is leveled and watered, the construction of the blind area can begin within a day.

It is worth noting that it is recommended to start manufacturing the structure after building the box of a private house or after 6-8 months. after the base has been completed.

It is not recommended to use porcelain stoneware tiles as a covering for the structure. Its smooth surface is quite slippery, and this can cause human injuries. In addition, it will not last long. The tiles will need to be laid on a concrete surface, which expands when it freezes, so it will quickly burst.

The blind area around the house is a special structure that is designed to remove precipitation and protect the foundation from premature destruction. A blind area is also necessary in conditions of heaving soil or in areas with a high groundwater level, which can undermine the foundation. Let's take a closer look at how the blind area is done with your own hands, as well as which options for its implementation are most effective.


In addition to protecting the foundation, the blind area also performs practical and design functions. Very often it is used as a path, so it must have sufficient hardness and abrasion resistance. When choosing a blind area, you should also take into account the landscape design and exterior of the house. The correct blind area around the house helps to favorably emphasize the architectural style of the building and make the local area more neat and practical.



The pouring of the blind area can be carried out simultaneously with the construction of the foundation. However, it can be made after finishing the finishing work. If you neglect this point, over time, cracks may appear in the foundation, and the thermal insulation performance of the structure will decrease. Thus, the role of the blind area at home should not be underestimated. This is one of the main stages of building a house, which directly affects the quality of the structure.

Construction of a blind area around the house

Before you start building a blind area with your own hands, you need to decide on the materials from which it will be made. Most often, concrete, asphalt, bricks, wood, reinforced concrete slabs or tiles are used for these purposes. The correct blind area around the house must have at least two layers. The top layer contains the main coating, and the bottom is a cushion of sand, small crushed stone, grit or clay.

Ideally, the installation of a blind area around the house should be carried out simultaneously with the foundation. The width of the blind area should be about 80 - 100 cm or 20 - 30 cm more than the cornice. The wider the blind area, the faster the water drains. In this case, you should remember the slope, which should be 3 – 7ᵒС. A small drainage groove can be made along the perimeter of the blind area. This will prevent water from stagnating during heavy rainfalls or when snow melts.

How to make a blind area with your own hands

Making a blind area with your own hands is quite easy. The construction process does not require special knowledge and is carried out in several stages:

  1. Preparing the base.

Installing a blind area with your own hands begins with leveling the surface, removing plant roots, removing the top layer of soil with a shovel and treating the soil with herbicides. It is necessary to install boundary boards around the perimeter and make a sand cushion. To do this, a layer of sand is poured onto the prepared surface, compacted and filled with water. Next, a layer of crushed stone or broken brick is poured.

  1. Waterproofing and insulation.

Insulating the blind area allows you to increase the thermal insulation of the foundation, which is especially important if the house has a cellar or basement. Polystyrene, foam glass or penoplex can be used as insulation. The air gap between the concrete layer and the ground can reach 15 cm. The blind area is waterproofed using PVC film, bitumen or roofing felt.

  1. Installation of temperature cuts.

Temperature cuts can be made using rain gutters or flat slate. It is necessary to leave an expansion joint between the wall and the blind area by placing roofing material, sealant or bitumen in it.

  1. Pouring concrete.

Concrete for a blind area can be made by combining 0.5 shares of water, 1 share of cement, 3 shares of sand and 4 shares of crushed stone. It is better to take grade M-300 cement. Filling is carried out carefully within the boundary boards.

  1. Ironing.

15 - 20 minutes after pouring the solution, the surface is sprinkled with dry cement and smoothed with a spatula. Thanks to this technique, the blind area is stronger, smoother and more moisture-resistant.


The blind area around the house can be made of concrete slabs. As in the first option, the base is prepared for this, after which the finished slabs are laid out and bitumen is poured. Also, recently, profiled membranes have become increasingly popular, which are placed directly on the ground, covered with crushed stone and sand, after which any covering is installed.

Alternative options for home blind area

The most popular option in our country is a concrete blind area 15 cm thick. If previously this type of blind area was the most affordable, in our time a wide variety of building materials, insulation and waterproofing films have appeared, with the help of which cost of blind area around the house can be significantly reduced. Let's consider several alternative options for installing a blind area with your own hands.

Soft blind area for difficult soils

A soft blind area is one of the simplest options for constructing a blind area, which can be used for heaving soils. It is performed in several stages.


Blind area with rubemast

Rubemast is an inexpensive waterproofing material made on the basis of fiberglass or fiberglass with bitumen impregnation. Using rubemast, you can build a high-quality blind area, adhering to the following action plan:


Geotextile blind area to protect against weeds

Installation of a blind area made of geotextiles is carried out in several stages:


Construction of a blind area in Finnish

This type of blind area is widely used in the construction of Finnish houses. It is radically different from the technologies familiar in our area and is carried out according to the following principle:

  1. A corrugated pipe with holes is laid around the perimeter of the house.
  2. Gravel is poured over the pipe, overlapping foam is installed and covered with soil.
  3. Next, the pipe is connected to drain wells.
  4. Crushed stone and decorative pebbles are poured at a distance of about 40 cm from the walls of the building.

The Finnish blind area is quite effective, drains water well and prevents freezing of the foundation.

Russian blind area - cheap and cheerful

This version of the blind area is very unusual and was invented by Russian craftsmen. It is performed using glass bottles in several stages:

  1. A thin layer of concrete is poured onto a small sand bed.
  2. Next, ordinary glass bottles are laid, and the next layer of concrete is poured.
  3. After this, reinforcement is performed, and the next layer of concrete blind area is poured. If necessary, the surface is subjected to ironing, i.e. sprinkled with dry cement.

The advantage of this technique is the absence of expansion joints and low concrete consumption. In addition, the bottles leave an air gap in the blind area, increasing its thermal insulation without additional insulation.

In general, there are quite a lot of options for making a blind area around the house. If desired, it can be made at different heights, decorated with natural or artificial stone, tiles, or covered with pebbles or crushed stone.

Video Blind area device

There is a popular story about formwork devices and blind area pouring.

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