Band-saw on wood has great operational capabilities than usual hand saw. This unit can be useful when carrying out carpentry work, at woodworking enterprises and sawmills. The choice of saw should be made based on your requirements and capabilities.
Manufacturers such as Bukhta, Corvette, Metabo offer a wide range of band saws, the blades of which are capable of working effectively on wood and allow the craftsman to achieve excellent woodworking performance with his own hands.
The selection is made based on several criteria:
- Scope of work performed and frequency of implementation;
- Functions, tasks that will be performed by a wood band saw;
- Characteristics of teeth;
- Canvas dimensions;
- Sharpening level and setting;
- Manufacturer.
Vertical installation of the Corvette, devices from Metabo have a number of advantages over homemade devices. Corvette with Metabo are among the leaders of the domestic market.
The choice largely depends on what material you have to work with. Metal work requires the use of an appropriate blade.
Working with metal involves using bimetallic blades. Bimetal cutting tools are excellent on medium and low carbon steels. It is possible to use bimetallic blades for woodworking, but it is better to equip the Corvette saw with a specialized cutting component.
Selection by scope of work
- For industrial purposes, where the work of the saw practically does not stop, the choice should be made in favor of powerful, productive models about Metabo, Corvette, Bay. Such saws have highly efficient blades, and the devices have excellent strength parameters.
- For DIY work living conditions, small workshop, the choice leans towards simple models Corvette, Metabo, which are characterized by average strength, but are capable of providing required quality do-it-yourself processing.
Canvases
The choice of blade should be made based on its length, width, performance characteristics of the Corvette, Metabo saw itself, etc. It is important to compare the parameters of the equipment and cutting tool installed on it.
If you can’t find it in the instructions necessary information, take a few key points into account.
- Thin canvases quickly deform if work is done with coarse products;
- Wide blades provide an even cut. The wider the canvas, the better the quality of the work;
- Thick blades are not suitable for working with thin workpieces. There is a great risk of damage;
- To execute figure cutting or contour processing, you need to compare the width of the cutting tool and its ability to enter the material at a certain angle.
Teeth
There are recommendations regarding the teeth of the selected band saw blade.
- A large number of blade teeth ensures high-quality cut thick-walled blanks.
- Blades with a small number of teeth minimize the load that affects the entire area of the sawn blade.
- Tools with multiple edges help distribute stress evenly throughout the band saw.
- Modern manufacturers produce blades, the number of teeth on which varies between 3-24 units.
- The large teeth of the blade are designed for deep cuts.
- If the edges of the canvas have small height, they effectively saw thin-walled products.
- An equally important parameter for choosing a belt is the pitch of the teeth.
- A large step is relevant when processing thin sheet products of small formats.
- Frequent steps allow the belt to cut through large pieces.
- Variable pitch is designed for working with soft materials.
Sharpening
Bimetallic, woodworking bandsaw blades need to be checked for sharpening quality. Proper sharpening is checked based on three parameters.
- Sharpness of teeth. The better the sharpening, the sharper they will be. You just shouldn’t check the sharpening level with your own hands.
- Homogeneity of woodworking material. If there are no blurs on the tape, the metal is homogeneous, then the sharpening should be of high quality.
- Uniformity of lines, correct angle. If the edges are sharpened well, but the angle between cutting edges violated, this will significantly deteriorate the quality of product processing. The angle between the cutting edges must correspond technical specifications selected tape. Each of them is characterized by a certain angle and sharpening features.
Before purchasing a saw for DIY work, be sure to ask whether it is possible to sharpen the tool if it wears out with use. For most modern band saws, sharpening is a routine task. The instructions are not complicated, which allows you to do the sharpening yourself and get the correct angle.
But some saws have a strict angle, a clear angle between the cutting edges, if violated, the saw will no longer be able to return to its original operational capabilities.
Wiring
Setting is bending the cutting blade to a certain angle in different sides. Due to this, the level of friction is reduced and jamming of the blade is prevented.
There are several types of wiring.
- Standard. The standard spread involves an opposite bend at an angle cutting elements on different sides. This wiring is relevant for saws working with hard materials.
- Wavy layout. This complex design. Here divorce is characterized by variable meaning. The peculiarity is the formation of a kind of wave. Not the entire saw blade is bent to a certain angle, but some part of the top of the blade.
- The protective wiring consists of bending two cutting blades. The third remains in its place. A spread is used for belts that work with the hardest materials. Every third tooth has a trapezoid shape.
The setting is carried out so that the teeth have a deviation not exceeding 0.1 millimeters. If the alignment is not done, the saw will be positioned unevenly, which will negatively affect the performance of the band saw.
Homemade or factory
It’s not uncommon for craftsmen to think about making a homemade tape machine. Drawings are widely available on the Internet; reviews indicate the possibility of assembling the device with your own hands.
But a drawing alone will not allow you to assemble a band saw correctly. Homemade vertical installation has a number of features that only an experienced specialist can master.
It is recommended to start with mini band saws, the assembly of which requires a fairly simple drawing. You can repair them with your own hands, modernize them, and sharpen cutting tools. Take it as a basis detailed drawing indicating all required assembly parameters. Having made a mini machine, you can gradually move on to more serious units.
Factory models are preferable due to the availability of such manufacturers as Metabo, Corvette. Corvette and Metabo companies offer a wide range of band saws, from mini to industrial. It is easier, safer and more convenient to work with them yourself.
If repairs are required, you can contact service center, or carry out the repair yourself according to the factory instructions.
Factory band machines preferable to homemade ones. They win in almost all respects. The exception is the price. The estimated cost of a band saw made by Metabo, Corvette is from 20 thousand rubles.
Any construction or major renovation is unlikely to be completed without boards and various beams. In this case, all this material must be cut to the required size.
Of course, you can already purchase ready-made boards or bars. But this will require a lot financial costs. Therefore, many home craftsmen and professionals prefer to do everything themselves.
And for this you need the right tool eg band saw. And in this case, you should not immediately run to the store to buy a machine.
If you have a little experience, then you will definitely be able to make a homemade band saw. And the technology of its production will be discussed in this article.
Preparatory stage
A DIY band saw will cost less than a factory-made version. But in order to make everything correctly, you must first understand the design itself. The band saw is designed for sawing wooden workpieces large diameter. As a rule, it is used to make boards or beams from logs.
The structure itself is a frame on which an electric motor and pulleys are mounted. The first is necessary for rotating the pulleys on which the cutting blade is attached. It is with its help that the workpiece is cut.
Before you start working on creating a band saw for wood, it is worth making a drawing. With his help everything further work will be faster and clearer for you.
1 – lower drive pulley; 2 - bed; 3 – band saw; 4 - V-belt A710; 5 - damper; 6 - guide; 7 – supporting rod; 8 – upper drive pulley; 9 - table, 10 – electric motor (AOL-22-2); 11 - belt drive pulleys; 12 – bracket; 13 - M12 nut, 14 – upper support; 15 – adjusting screw; 16 - slider
- metal corners, profile pipes, channels and rolled products;
- electric motor;
- pulleys from old agricultural machinery. Those that have a diameter of 30 centimeters are best suited;
- sheets of plywood or chipboard to create a cabinet;
- the cutting blade itself;
- welding machine and plumbing tools
You must first make a frame (according to a previously drawn up drawing). It is made from channel (100) by welding. The height of the frame should be about one and a half meters. It is also advisable to make a box under the frame; shavings will be collected in it. This design can be easily made from sheets of plywood or chipboard.
Carrier rod
Upper belt drive pulley
The damper is necessary to dampen vibrations of the tape. Made from textolite.
1 - base, 2 - M6 bolt (2 pcs.), 3 - strip, 4 - nut with washer
The guide serves for the correct feeding of workpieces
A homemade band saw consists of several basic elements. First of all, this is the frame. It is on this that the remaining components will be attached. An electric motor is mounted on the frame, which is connected to a pulley. You also need to make a device for feeding logs (or other wooden blank) for cutting.
Let's move on to the pulleys. There are two of them used in the design. In this case, the right pulley will be driven, so it does not require rigid fixation. It must be equipped with a spring, which is responsible for tensioning the canvas. The left pulley, which is the drive pulley, is fixed rigidly in its place.
The pulleys themselves are mounted on special guides made of pipes. In this case, it is necessary to provide for their fixation with bolts. The pulleys must be sharpened so that the edges of the belt protrude a couple of centimeters. Also, the cutting blade itself is installed with a slight inclination. In this case, it will tension itself, which will prevent the tape from falling off while the machine is operating.
Belt tensioning mechanism: 14 - upper support, 15 - adjusting screw, 16 - slider, 17 - cover, 18 - M4 screw, 19 - bearing 60203, 20 - oil seal, 21 - end washer, 22 - Grover washer
Saw band fastening unit (lower pulley)
1 - lower belt drive pulley, 4 - V-belt, 7 - support rod, 11 - belt drive pulleys, 19 - bearing 60203, 23 - washer, 24 - M6 lock bolt, 25 - spacer sleeve, 26 - axlebox housing, 27 - axle box cover, 28 - shaft.
Axle box for band press
Drive shaft of the tape machine
After preparation, all parts are mounted on the frame. The pulleys are connected to the electric motor using a belt drive (a chain drive can be mounted). Next, the power buttons are installed and the hand-held wood band saw is ready for use.
Very important element of such a machine is a cutting blade. Some craftsmen make their own saws. To do this, you can purchase special blanks made from steel strips. Next, using templates, sharpening is done.
Soldering area
The blanks are produced in the form of strips, and the machine requires a “ring”. To do this, the workpieces are welded. In this case, it is necessary to use a complex method. The point is that there should be no overlap. The connection of the strip into a single ring is done end-to-end. After welding, the joints are thoroughly sanded.
This complexity of manufacturing a cutting blade forces many to buy ready-made saws. Today in stores a large assortment similar products. The main thing is to choose the size of the cutting blade so that it fits your pulleys.
In addition, when choosing a saw, you should pay attention to the thickness. The higher this indicator, the larger the radius of curvature of the blade. For a more accurate selection, you can use special tables.
A DIY band saw can quickly recoup the time and money spent on its production. But this will be true if you follow the recommendations for operating such equipment. Experts give the following advice:
The cutting blade must be tensioned correctly. The amount of such tension will depend on the grade of steel used in the manufacture of the saw, as well as its width. This indicator can be measured using a special device - a “tyrzometer”;
Don’t think that the saw will be able to work continuously for a long time. Experts recommend the following operating mode: cutting for two hours, then the blade is removed and hung in a free state for 12-24 hours. In this way you can extend the life of the saw;
Always use a lubricant, especially if cutting fresh wood. Freshly cut down trees have copious discharge resin. Its mass begins to clog the incisors. As a result, the saw begins to heat up and quickly fails. For lubrication (and simultaneous cooling), you can use ordinary water with the addition of simple detergent. IN winter period experts recommend using a mixture of diesel fuel and motor oil;
After finishing work, loosen the cutting blade. When cut, it heats up and expands slightly. After finishing the work, the canvas begins to cool and decrease in size. If you leave it in a tense state, then marks from the pulleys will form, in place of which abrasions will subsequently appear;
Follow the rules for sharpening teeth. Both the speed of the work itself and the service life of the cutting blade will depend on this. Also make sure that the teeth are always well sharpened and their alignment is correct.
It is also necessary to strictly observe safety precautions. A band saw is quite a dangerous piece of equipment. It's best to equip it protective casing. This addition will improve work safety and help improve sawdust removal.
Also, be careful when choosing where to install the machine. Of course, a homemade band saw will not take up much space. But still there should be enough space around for free movement.
In addition, take care of high-quality lighting of the workplace. Quite often such a machine is installed on the street. In this case, try to work only during daylight hours or when there is a good street light.
From the video you will learn how to make a band saw with your own hands from available materials.
Not each of us will immediately be able to answer the question, what is it? Although, in principle, everyone has heard about a band saw (more often called a machine). This is nothing more than an ordinary (small) sawmill. For the owner of a private building, and even living in rural areas, a more than necessary thing (and for a city dweller it will not be superfluous in the household).
With its help, you can not only solve many everyday issues. With a reasonable approach, a band saw becomes a reliable source of additional income.
If you have the desire, appropriate skills and tools, such a machine can be made with your own hands. But so that the reader is not deluded in advance by the easy prospect of its construction, it should be noted right away that this is a rather complicated matter, since a number of problems will arise that will have to be solved.
Organizational events
- You will need a separate room or a free plot in your garden. As practice shows, for normal operation A band sawmill requires at least 18 m². In size it is a large room in a city apartment.
- Considering the weight of the workpieces (logs, beams) that will have to be worked with, it is necessary to ensure maximum stability of the entire structure. So installing the machine is “simply on wooden floor" there is no point. You will have to take care of a strong foundation.
- The greatest difficulty is in the “design” of the adjustment mechanism. Without it, all the boards will “come out” of only one, standard thickness. We'll have to figure out the specifics of its device.
- Debugging the operation of the entire mechanism requires certain knowledge of mechanics. In addition, you need to master the technique of sharpening the saw and setting it.
- It is necessary to take appropriate measures to comply with safety measures. Including when installing a sawmill in indoors– arrangement of forced exhaust.
- Naturally, what you need to have on hand necessary tools and equipment - hammer drill and a number of others.
If all this does not scare the reader, then we will continue the story. By the way, a band saw is considered an ideal “unit” for accurately cutting boards of any thickness. Various designs(drawings, diagrams) of sawmills are available in abundance. A good owner will be able to choose the best option himself.
We will look at a specific model, and using its example it will be easy to understand all the features of assembling band saws. All dimensions indicated are in “mm”.
So that after reading the “Instructions” no additional questions arise, it is first advisable to dwell on some general points.
The operating principle of a band sawmill
The saw mechanism itself is in a stationary, fixed position. The workpiece intended for cutting is placed on a trolley, which is moved manually.
The location of the cutting tool can be either vertical or horizontal. The setting depends on what kind of work is supposed to be done - sawing logs into pieces or “dissolving” them into boards.
Materials and accessories
There are many different recommendations on the Internet, including how to assemble a desktop from wood and PCB elements. But how reliable will such a design be, taking into account the weight of the samples “for sawing”? Plus - what will be the period of use, since any wood, no matter how it is processed, is susceptible to rotting.
Outdoors it is definitely metal. The design will be much more reliable if you use materials such as a channel, angle, or steel strip for all its elements.
Some models offered for self-production use a chainsaw as a cutting mechanism. But how practical is this, given the width of the cut and, as a consequence, increased wood consumption (increased sawdust mass)? Therefore, it is better to install a steel sheet prepared accordingly.
Alternatively, use a mechanical hacksaw. In addition, the belt design allows you to work with larger diameter workpieces.
Depending on what is supposed to be “produced” - boards or slats, what types of wood to work with, the engine model is also selected (item 10). For small sawmills, a motor with a power of 2.5 - 3 kW is sufficient.
Assembly order
Table
The dimensions of it (item 9) and the frame (item 2) are chosen arbitrarily. In the proposed model they are 500 x 420 (mm). A channel (No. 8), prepared for installation of all elements, was used as a rod (item 7).
Its fastening to the table is a corner (“magpie”).
Pulleys
The dimensions are given in the figures (item 11). For the upper (pos. 8) and lower (pos. 1) they are the same.
In order to ensure safe operation sawmill, the upper pulley must be covered with a casing.
Damper
Its task is to “dampen” vibrations (position 5). Since the pulleys are the same, the gear ratio = 1.
Guide
Provides centering of the workpiece, which is fed “to the saw” (item 6). IN in this case This is a metal corner. Cutouts and grooves provide the ability to change position (adjustment).
Ribbon
(Pos. 3). If it is not possible to purchase a factory-made product, then you can make it from steel (cold rolled - 65G or U8, 10). The thickness of the blade depends on the type of wood. For soft breeds it is recommended from 0.2 to 0.4; for hard ones - from 0.4 to 0.8.
You need to cut teeth on it and then solder it into a ring. How to do this, as well as sharpen it, is a question that requires separate consideration.
Tension mechanism
Details not noted in the text:
- V-belt (item 4);
- stop (pos. 12);
- support (item 14);
- adjustment element (pos. 15);
- slider (pos. 16).
It remains to add that all moving elements are mounted on bearings and shafts. There is no point in explaining to a skilled owner how to choose them correctly based on existing drawings.
This design will allow you to solve many household problems - cut the board, trim it, cut it into slats, and the like.
An excellent homemade product from our subscriber Denis Dd. This is a plywood band saw with a minimum cost of such a unit of 8,000 rubles, I think this article may be useful.
The upper part of the frame (the most difficult part) is assembled from 4 sheets of plywood (15 pieces) with glue and screws; in the center of the sheets there is a groove 100 mm wide. and 30 mm deep (2 sheets of plywood) a tape tensioner runs in this groove. You can see it in the photo.
There is no separate photo of the tensioner, but the design is simple: a pin is screwed to 100 by 30 plywood and a nut is attached to the top; we tighten the nut; the tensioner rises and the tape is tensioned. The tensioner stroke is about 15 cm. I made the tensioner stroke specifically larger so that it would be possible to use both 2300mm and 2500mm belts. 
The upper shaft pulley is secured to the same block. I did not adjust the angle of the shaft, which allows you to center the saw blade (although in vain) I set the shafts a little out of alignment, when the tape is tensioned, the shafts fall into place, respectively, the tape moves along the centers of the shafts +-. It was necessary to put the shafts in camber due to the insufficiently rigid structure of the frame precisely in the place of the tensioner. You need more layers of plywood then there will be no walking. The rest of the frame is made of 150/50 boards joined in two. Everything is fine here with rigidity. 
The shafts were sharpened from the same plywood 15 shki in two layers. Shaft dimensions 350mm. I placed 2 bearings in the center for each shaft, the shafts were secured to the frame through a 16 mm pin that approached the bearings.
After turning the shafts and assembling the frame, I turned on the motor and sanded/centered it with sandpaper and a chisel. There were no problems with the lower shaft (the motor spins it because I don’t want to), but the upper one had to be forced to be baptized after putting a ribbon on it. This is basically the way the shafts were centered.
As a result of this, vibration during rotation went away to a significant extent (without such alignment, the unit swung from side to side). Next is balancing the shafts. We remove the tape and belt, twist the shaft and see which side it goes to the bottom, which is accordingly heavier, remove it a little with a drill and twist it again, and so on until the shaft stops in different positions and it doesn’t pull anywhere. On next photo these holes are visible. 
The shafts are shaped like an egg, so the tape does not touch the shaft itself with its teeth. You also need to put rubber on the shafts. Bike cameras are an option.
The motor was taken from an old washing machine, weak but saws). The pulley for the motor was also machined from the same plywood. Ribbed belt from the generator.
It’s difficult to describe the guides for the tape; you can see it in the photo. 1 guide from the top with the ability to change the height, the second is fixed under the tabletop. 
On the guides there is a thrust bearing at the back on the sides, 2 beech crackers, everything is assembled with bolts, with the ability to adjust. 
When assembling, be sure to pay attention to the upper assembly; use at least 6 layers of plywood. Those. 2 solid sheets, then 2 for the tensioner, they are cut in the middle (space for the tensioner) and again 2 solid sheets. I think that such rigidity will definitely be enough so that the shafts do not move away when the tape is tensioned.
It is worth noting that this saw has some shortcomings, for example, the lack of operator protection, which is simply NECESSARY on such units, otherwise everything could end in disaster.
The same plywood is used to make guards for the saw blade, leaving only the working section of the band free.
Engine from washing machine rather weak.
There is no adjustment of the position (tilt) of the pulleys to regulate the position of the belt.
Edged board is an environmentally friendly and easy-to-process material, but the cost of 1 cubic meter quality wood will be quite expensive. In the event that you need to purchase a large number of building materials, many home craftsmen are thinking about making their own lumber.
To independently produce high-quality boards or timber, you cannot do without the use of special woodworking devices. New equipment will cost tens of thousands of rubles. Therefore, if you want to do self-production such a device, the article will describe step by step guide, how to make a band sawmill with your own hands with minimal financial costs.
A band sawmill is a machine that performs longitudinal sawing logs Thanks to the ability to precisely adjust the position of the cutting surface, it is possible to produce lumber of various thicknesses.
The structure of the sawmill consists of the following main elements:
- Band saw.
- Clamping mechanism.
- Frame movement mechanism.
- Devices for adjusting the height of the canvas.
Installed on the machine Electrical engine power of at least 5 kW. A sawmill can be made with an engine from a walk-behind tractor, but the noise of such an installation will be much higher than when using an electric unit.
During operation of the installation, torque is transmitted using a belt drive to the working pulleys on which the saw blade is installed. The sawing mechanism must have a spring or hydraulic mechanism in its design. stretching device to automatically adjust the pulley extension width to compensate thermal expansion metal tape during operation.
For processing round timber, frame with mounted band saw and power plant moves along the fixed material on rails installed on a concrete base. Height adjustment saw blade relative to the lowest point of the sawmill is carried out by a screw mechanism, which is designed in such a way as to eliminate the possibility of distortions during operation of the installation.
To securely hold the log while the sawmill is operating, the workpiece is placed between the guides and secured with special hooks. After laying and fixing the log, the operator smoothly moves the moving part of the installation, during which the top part of the log is cut off. After completing one cycle, the cutting surface is raised and the frame moves to its original position.
When using a homemade sawmill, you will need to move the carriage over the log manually, while factory settings allow you to almost completely automate the process of making lumber. The quality of timber or boards, with correct production DIY sawmills are no different from materials produced using modern equipment.
What you need for a homemade sawmill
You can independently make complex devices and mechanisms from metal only if you have the skills to use them. A do-it-yourself band sawmill cannot be installed without welded joints.
Except welding machine You will need to prepare the following tools for work:
- Electric drill.
- Drills for concrete and metal.
- Pliers.
- Spanners.
- Set of metalwork clamps.
- Building level.
- Nuts and bolts.
- Concrete mixer.
To make the base of the sawmill you will need a concrete mixer. If there is no factory model, the device can be made independently from a steel barrel.
To install a homemade woodworking installation, you will need to purchase the following materials:
- Metal corner 50 mm.
- Rollers or ball bearings.
- Profile pipe.
- Steel pipe.
- Electric or gasoline engine.
- 2 long screws with nuts.
- Chain transmission.
- Wheels and hubs from passenger car.
- Cement, sand and crushed stone for concrete mortar.
When all the tools and materials are prepared, you need to make drawings of a wood sawmill.
Drawings for a homemade sawmill
To make a drawing homemade machine, it is enough to draw on paper a small copy of the woodworking device indicating the dimensions of each part and mechanism.
When designing a band sawmill, it is advisable to set the length to at least 6 and width to 3 meters. Only in this case will it be possible to produce homemade device lumber of standard lengths.
Based on the sketches of the woodworking installation, it will not be difficult to calculate the amount of materials for the manufacture of the frame and guide rails. In order to strengthen the structure between two parallel corners of the guides, transverse reinforcements must be installed, the distance between which should not exceed 1 meter.
If a self-made mini-band sawmill will be used indoors, then you will only need to make a drawing of the main device. When placing a woodworking installation in an open area, it is advisable to make a canopy, the drawing of which should also be drawn up before proceeding with practical implementation of this project.
Making the base
Only a properly prepared base for the sawmill will allow the frame with the saw mechanism to move evenly. The slab on which the guide rails will be installed is made according to the principle of constructing a conventional strip foundation.
The base must be poured on a gravel-sand cushion with a thickness of at least 15 cm.
To increase the strength of the slab, a metal reinforcing mesh is laid on the base before pouring concrete. After pouring concrete, it must be kept for at least 2 weeks to achieve maximum strength of the base.
Making a sawmill: step-by-step instructions
Homemade band sawmill It is mounted with your own hands using wheels from a passenger car, a belt drive and an engine.
A corner or channel is used as guides. The corner is used with a cross-section of at least 50 * 50 mm. The material is laid strictly parallel, with the inner edge up, at a pre-calculated distance.
Then sleepers are installed between the corners, which are cut from profile pipe cross section 50 * 100 mm. When welding transverse reinforcements, care should be taken not to overheat the guides, which could be caused by high temperature. When the sleepers are welded to the guides, fixation is made metal structure To concrete base using anchor bolts.
After completing the work of fixing the rails to the concrete base on which the carriage will move, a bed is installed in the middle part of the “railroad” track for fixing the timber. To hold the round timber, it is welded to the sleepers H-post with side projections. Minimum height the rod of the holding device should not be less than 100 mm.
Ball bearings can be used as rollers for a sawmill. For each frame axis it is necessary to select 2 bearings of a larger diameter and 4 - 6 smaller ones. The difference in diameter depends on the height of the corner edge. For example, if a 50 * 50 mm angle is used as a guide, then the difference in the outer diameters of the bearings should be 100 mm. In this case, the internal diameters of the parts must be equal.
The manufacture of the frame begins with the installation of 2 guides from steel pipe. The guides are installed in a vertical position, after which the sliders are mounted on them, inner diameter which should differ minimally from the outer diameter of the guide pipes.
The carriage frame is welded from a profile pipe. This element must be reliable design rectangular shape, onto which vertical guides will then be welded, and in the lower part - an axis with bearings.
The carriage is moved in a vertical plane using a screw mechanism, which is installed on both sides of the guide pipes. The nut is welded to the slider, and long studs are fixed at the top of the frame. In order to ensure easy rotation of the adjusting mechanism, it is recommended to install the studs on bearings on both sides.
To ensure synchronous rotation of the screw mechanism, small bicycle sprockets of the same diameter should be welded onto each pin, between which chain drive using bicycle chain. To ensure constant tension of the chain mechanism, its design must have a roller on the lever of which a spring is installed.
As pulleys in homemade sawmill Wheels and hubs from a rear-wheel drive passenger car will be used. To ensure easy rotation of the drive, it is necessary to assemble a bearing assembly, which will be welded on both sides to the carriage cross member. A pulley is installed on one of the hubs, to which torque will then be transmitted from an electric or gasoline engine.
To increase the safety of using the saw mechanism, a saw support unit is installed in the lower part of the carriage near each of the wheels, which consists of an axle on which several small-diameter ball bearings are installed. The power unit is mounted on the side of the hub on which the pulley was installed.
If a motor is used internal combustion, then for tension V-belt transmission A spring-loaded roller is used. To tension the belt when using an electric motor, the unit is installed on a small platform that can be moved in a horizontal plane.
On next stage A container for lubricating and washing liquid is installed on the sawmill, from which it is necessary to connect a tube to the cutting unit. Then a casing is made over the cutting unit from metal corner and tin, after which you can begin the first launch of a homemade woodworking installation, having previously installed a band saw between the wheels.