Summer shower - design options and materials. How to make a summer shower in the country: step-by-step instructions, photos, videos, recommendations! Homemade summer shower

It is recommended to install a garden shower on a personal plot in the following cases:

The country house does not have utility networks. The lack of running water significantly complicates the installation of a stationary shower indoors;
The garden house is used only for short-term recreation in the summer. If you build a shower stall in such a room, then big problems arise with preparing for its negative temperatures. It is necessary to completely remove water from the system, prevent freezing of pipelines, etc.;
in order to save energy. Water for a garden shower can only be heated by sunlight. If you want to expand the functionality of the shower stall, you can also connect electric heating, but use it only in unfavorable weather;
financial resources do not allow the construction of expensive capital bathrooms.

The presence of a garden shower significantly increases the comfort of relaxation in a country plot; you can wash yourself in it after working in the garden beds, etc. It is impossible to list all possible options for arranging a garden shower in one article; each owner can make his own changes depending on preferences, skills, and characteristics terrain of the site and financial capabilities.

To make it easier for inexperienced builders to choose the best option for a garden shower, we present a table of the most commonly used designs with a brief description of their characteristics.

Name of structural element	Technical description
Frame	Can be made from wooden blocks or rolled metal. The dimensions of the bars are approximately 50x50 mm; slats measuring at least 20x30 mm are used to make side stops. It is better to make a metal frame from square or rectangular pipes measuring at least 20x20 mm.
External surface cladding	All types of lining are suitable, including natural ones. Profiled metal sheets, cellular or monolithic polycarbonate are widely used. The cheapest options are plastic film or thick fabric.
Water drainage	Some options may have special septic tanks, and most do not require storage tanks. Several tens of liters of water are quite successfully absorbed into the soil, especially if its composition is sandy or sandy loam.
Water tanks	Both metal and plastic containers are used. The best option is to buy shower containers in specialized stores. The minimum container volume is 100 liters, external surfaces must be painted black.
Water heating	Sunlight or combined with the use of electric heating elements. It is recommended to make a specific choice taking into account the climate zone of residence and the time of use of the shower.

Garden shower

The construction of a shower consists of several stages; compliance with them allows you to avoid many troubles.

Stages of constructing a garden shower

The conditions listed below for placing a garden shower will increase the comfort of its use, reduce the amount of construction work and increase the time of use. These conditions are considered universal and must be taken into account when constructing any construction option.

Location. The shower should be located in a well-lit area of the garden, preferably on a hill. If the land is sandy or sandy loam, then this arrangement will allow you to do without a septic tank or dirty water storage tank.
The distance between the shower and the residential building should be minimal. It can be adjacent to outbuildings, a garage, etc. The main thing is that after water procedures there is a place for shelter, which will eliminate the possibility of hypothermia in unfavorable weather.
Methods for filling a container under water. In all cases, the distance from water sources to the shower stall should be small.

After the issues with the location of the structure have been resolved, you should decide on the size and type of structure, and materials of manufacture. As we mentioned above, the choice is huge and depends only on the owner of the site.

Instead of building a frame, you can place the shower head on one of the walls of existing buildings, having previously taken special measures to protect it from moisture. There are options for placing a shower rail in an open space (vertical support, tree branch, etc.).

An original solution - the water tank is installed on the ground, and the supply is ensured using a special device, the so-called “treadmill”. It looks like a rubber mat with built-in water supply pumps. You need to press on them one by one with your feet, water is sucked out of the container and supplied under pressure to the shower head. Exercise and shower at the same time. An excellent option, you can install it anywhere in your summer cottage. To set up such a garden shower you do not need any construction skills, materials or time.

In this article we will dwell in detail on two more complex, but also more comfortable options. To build these structures you need building material and a little time and experience. The frame materials are wood or profiled steel. The standard dimensions of the structure are 100x100 cm around the perimeter and 220 cm in height. You shouldn't reduce it, it will be inconvenient to wash. If you want to make a separate place in the shower for changing clothes and storing bath accessories, you can increase the perimeter of the structure.

Step-by-step instructions for building a shower with a wooden frame

Step 1. Mark the concrete base slab. To simplify water drainage, it is recommended to leave a recess in the middle of the shower for natural moisture absorption. The fertile layer should first be removed from the ground, a sand cushion 10–15 cm thick should be poured, compacted and leveled.

Step 2. Prepare the formwork. You need to make two square boxes. One with a square side of approximately 100×100 cm, the second inner one with a square side of approximately 60×60 cm. The height of the formwork is at least 10 cm; for manufacturing, use boards approximately 20 mm thick and 10–15 cm high. If you are afraid that the boards will bend under load concrete, then reinforce the formwork around the perimeter with wooden or metal pegs. Check the corners with a square; the formwork can be assembled using ordinary nails.

Step 3. Place the formwork on the prepared site and check its position. The small box should be located exactly in the center of the large one.

Step 4. Prepare the concrete for pouring. For manufacturing you will need cement, sand and gravel in a ratio of 1:2:3. The accuracy of the proportions does not matter much; the strength is quite enough for light loads. Fill the formwork with concrete and use a level lath to level the top surface horizontally. Allow approximately 10 days for the solution to set.

Step 5. Dismantle the formwork and begin making the frame. It will require bars measuring 50x50 mm or more; the amount of material can be easily calculated. It is necessary to add the length of four vertical posts to the sum of the two perimeters.

Step 6. Make a base for the vertical posts. The bars can be connected in half a tree; a jumper should be made in the middle of the base; it will serve as an additional support for the wooden shower grate. Make sure that all corners are right; you can connect the bars with nails or self-tapping screws. The base bars (frames) should lie approximately in the middle of the concrete slab; the specific dimensions do not matter.

Important. Be sure to soak the base several times with an effective antiseptic. There is no need to install waterproofing between the frame and the concrete; it will only cause harm. The fact is that water gets on top of the insulation and cannot be absorbed into the concrete. As a result, wooden structures are in contact with water for a long time.

Step 7 Saw off the vertical posts to size, you need 4 of them. It is better to cut with a hand-held electric saw; if you don’t have one, you can use an ordinary hacksaw.

Step 8 Begin installing the vertical posts. For fixation, it is better to use galvanized metal corners. They greatly simplify and facilitate the work and guarantee proper stability of the structure. It is impossible to install vertical racks yourself; hire an assistant. Temporarily secure the racks with any pieces of boards; later they will be replaced with real stops. Constantly check the verticality of the racks, use a level.

Step 9. Make a second square from the bars, the dimensions are identical to the first, a water tank will be installed on it. If the container has a large volume, then you will have to install several additional jumpers; the distance between them depends on the size of the container.

Step 10 Using corners, secure the top square to the vertical posts. Check all frame elements with a level and correct errors if necessary. You can place wooden wedges at the joints; this will not affect the strength and stability of the structure.

Step 11 One by one, remove the temporary spacers and install the permanent ones. Use the same bars as for making the frame. The length of the spacers should be equal to the distance between the vertical posts; saw the ends at an angle of 90°. For fixation, use the same galvanized metal corners. Spacers are the most critical component of the frame; take all measures to ensure maximum strength.

Step 12 The frame is ready - start covering the side surfaces. Any material can be used for cladding. You can make doors to enter or use a retractable curtain. If the cladding is solid, then windows should be provided under the ceiling. Leave ordinary holes; you can cover them with glass or film. It is recommended to seal the sheathing cuts at the outer corners with even edged boards.

Step 13 Place a container of water on the roof of the frame.

Practical advice. If you plan to take a shower in rainy weather, then the roof should be covered with a piece of metal profile, and a hole should be made under the outlet of the shower head.

Step 14 Paint wood surfaces with durable exterior paint.

You can install electric heating elements in the tank to heat water, but you must certainly follow the rules of the Electrical Regulations.

Step-by-step instructions for building a shower with a metal frame

To make the frame you will need a metal profile pipe, an angle grinder, a welding machine, a tape measure and a level.

After manufacturing, it is recommended to protect metal surfaces from corrosion processes with paint for exterior use. The amount of metal is determined based on the dimensions of the frame, as we described above. It is better to use a purchased water container; the length and width of the structure are adjusted according to its size.

Step 1. Draw a sketch of the frame indicating the length of each element. Take your time, carefully consider ways to strengthen the vertical posts. To strengthen loaded units, you can use pieces of rolled sheet metal with a thickness of at least 1 mm. Prepare squares or triangles with a side of 10–15 cm from it. Make sure that the angle is right and the cuts are even.

Step 2. Cut the blanks with a grinder. It is necessary to cut in compliance with all safety regulations; the grinder is a very dangerous tool. If you have many identical parts, it is recommended that you first accurately measure and cut one, and then use it as a template. This increases the accuracy of the elements.

Important. Make sure that the cutting disc rotates in the desired direction. If installed correctly, the sparks should fly towards the master, but for some it is inconvenient to work this way and they change the direction of rotation. This is very dangerous; while biting, the grinder is thrown onto the worker, which can cause serious injuries. It is impossible to hold the tool with your hands; the ejection force is too great.

Step 3. Start welding the frame. In order for the weld to be strong, maintain the welding conditions. The electrode thickness and current indicators depend on the profile parameters. For the frame, it is enough that the pipes have a wall thickness of 1–2 mm; such rolled products have the required physical strength and will fully withstand the load of a water tank. For welding, we recommend using a Ø 2 mm electrode; make sure that the slag is evenly blown off the surface of the molten metal and the seam is continuous.

How to weld a structure correctly?

Prepare a level workspace; the dimensions should be such that the largest elements can fit freely.
Place the two parts to be welded on the workbench and check their position under the square. As we already mentioned, the angle should be right and the parts should lie in the same plane.
Tack the parts on one side, the length of the tack is no more than a centimeter, give the metal time to cool. During cooling, the unit will move to the side and the correct position will be disrupted.
Using a hammer, trim the corners and turn the pieces over to the wrong side. Check the dimensions and spatial position again.
Carefully weld the parts on the other side, now you can make a seam along the entire length.
Turn the assembly over again and make a full tack weld. Weld metal pipes on all sides at the same time.
Remove slag from the surface of the weld and check the quality of the weld. If there are large shells, then re-suture.
Use a grinder to remove sharp metal stains.

Thus, you can independently prepare two side planes of the frame; all that remains is to connect them into a single structure. It is very difficult to do this alone; it is better to call an assistant. One will hold the elements, and the second will weld them. You need to constantly check the corners, don't rush. Practice shows that reworking an incorrectly welded frame always takes much more time than carefully checking the dimensions and spatial position during the preparation of structural elements.

It is better to make vertical posts and a platform for the tank from a rectangular or square pipe; with the same dimensions as a round one, they have significantly better characteristics of physical strength in bending and compression. As jumpers, in addition to sheets at the corners, you can use any wire rod, square or reinforcement. There are pieces of profile pipe of sufficient length left - use them.

Step 4. At the bottom, weld a platform for the sheathing boards. The dimensions do not matter, it is intended only for emphasis. The grille can be made non-separable or assembled from individual elements. For manufacturing, take smooth lumber; the thickness of the boards or slats should support the weight of the washable ones. If you have thin materials, then make several jumpers for them.

Step 5. Install the frame over the shower location. This can be a concrete platform or ordinary temporary stone stops. The second option is preferable for several reasons. Firstly, there is no need to engage in excavation and concrete work. Secondly, at any time, if necessary, the shower can be moved to another place.

Metal frame - old lattice, wound with wire

If you weld legs with support platforms made of sheet steel at the bottom of the vertical posts. The dimensions of the platforms are approximately 20x20 cm, this is enough to guarantee the stability of the structure. Such a platform makes the shower more mobile when moving; for installation you only need to slightly level the ground under the supporting platforms; this work takes a few minutes.

Practical advice. Many people are concerned about water drainage. If your cabin is located next to the entrance of the house, and there are sidewalk paths everywhere on your personal plot, then it is recommended to make a dirty water storage tank. If the shower is located at the back of the buildings, then you don’t have to waste time and effort on building outlets. For hygiene procedures, 10–15 liters of water is enough for one person; such a small amount will be absorbed into the ground without any problems. For complete peace of mind, you can dig a hole under the shower for 2-3 car tires, water will accumulate in it. After moving the frame, the tires are removed and the hole is filled with earth.

Step 6. Align the cabin, make sure that the racks are strictly vertical and the platform for the container is horizontal.

Step 7 Clean the surface of the metal structure from rust, oil stains and dirt, and check the stability of the frame with your hands. Everything is normal - you can start painting. Choose the color of the paint as desired, the main thing is that it is suitable for painting metal surfaces and for outdoor use. Don’t be too lazy to do the painting very well, use brushes, carefully rub the paint into the frame. If one layer is not enough for uniform coverage, you will have to repeat.

Metal frame coated with primer

Step 8 Place a container under water on the top platform and attach a shower head. If desired, you can make an additional outlet for collecting warm water for various household purposes.

Water supply through a tee with taps on taps

If there are no doors in the cabin, and only a plastic curtain is hung, then the wind can blow it inside the cabin. This creates some inconvenience when taking a shower. There are several ways to correct the situation:

Attach to the curtain in several places of attachment. Two approximately in the middle of the height is enough.
Hang any “hangings” next to the plastic curtain. The main selection criterion is weight. The heavier they are, the better they will hold the curtain.

If you want to increase the comfort of taking a shower, then it is better to attach a door. For its manufacture, you can use both lumber and rolled metal. The design of the doors is elementary; they are hung on vertical side supports.

When making the frame, think about this point; little material and time will be required, but the convenience of using the shower will increase significantly. The compartment also needs to be equipped with wooden gratings for the feet.

Silicone mat to prevent feet from slipping on wet boards

If children will use the shower, be sure to install a shower head with a flexible hose for them. Place the water supply switch tap at such a height that children can reach it without any problems.

Video - Garden shower options

The construction of a summer shower for a summer house is not complete without questions arising related to the choice of material and determining the size of the structure. In addition, I would like the building to be heated. This will make it possible to swim on cold days, when the water in the tank does not have time to warm up from the sun. An important issue is the organization of drainage and disposal of dirty water. Today we will look at how to build a summer shower with our own hands, and we will try to address all the issues of interest.

A country shower is so simple that it does not require drawing up a detailed diagram. Usually the standard cabin dimensions are 1000x1000x2200 mm. It is impossible to build a cabin lower, since part of the height will be taken up by a wooden pallet, plus a watering can overhead. But it is advisable to individually select the width and depth of the structure to suit the physique of the owners. For example, an obese person will feel cramped in a small cubicle, so the dimensions will have to be increased.

Drawing of a simple summer shower for a summer house

If you decide to improve the building, build a dressing room with a dressing room, install benches and a table in it, you will already need drawings. Draw what you want to build, indicate all the dimensions. When drawing up a detailed diagram, consider the following points:

Wooden shower cubicle

Building a cabin from wood is the most common option due to the ease of its construction. Wood is an environmentally friendly material and can be easily processed. Its only drawback is its susceptibility to moisture and bugs, so it requires additional processing. To build a wooden shower for a summer house, you will need boards and timber, preferably from coniferous trees. You can, of course, use oak or larch. The material made from these types of wood is more durable, but it is more difficult to process. Having decided on the material, get to work:

Since we are building a wooden shower, we will make the frame from wood. The main load on the racks will be created by a water tank. If its volume is about 200 liters, then the main racks must be installed from timber with a section of 100x100 mm. To secure the door, install additional racks made of timber with a section of 50x50 mm. The distance between them is equal to the width of the doors themselves with the door frame.
Dig holes 80 mm deep under all vertical posts. Cover the bottom of the pits with a 100 mm layer of crushed stone and sand.
To make the tree rot less in the ground, lubricate the edges of the timber with bitumen or machine oil. Wrap the top with two layers of roofing material. Insert the posts into the holes, level them with a plumb line and concrete them.
Another method of extending the life of posts is to concrete the metal sleeves. They can be made from pieces of metal pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. When the concrete has hardened, cut off the edges of the square beam with an ax to the size of the inner diameter of the pipes and install them in concrete bushings. Under the door pillars, similarly concrete bushings from a pipe of smaller diameter.
When installing vertical posts, make the front ones on the door side 100 mm higher than the rear ones. The difference in height will help to build a pitched roof.
Connect the exposed racks along the perimeter from the bottom and top with horizontal jumpers, securing them with bolts. If you plan to make the floor in the form of a wooden lattice, reinforce the lower lintels with metal mounting angles. The lintels will be supports for the joists and must support the weight of a person.
Now you need to make a frame for the tank from wooden jumpers fixed on top of the frame. A tank filled with water made of any material has an impressive weight, so the frame for it must be made strong.
Flat water tank for water installation on the roof of the shower
Cover the sides of the cabin frame with sanded boards. Make the door from a board 20-25 mm thick. Cut it to the required length, lay it in a row and sew it with cross bars. From a board 40-50 mm thick, knock down a door frame and fix the door to it with hinges. Now this entire structure can be bolted to the door posts.
Treat the finished booth with an antiseptic and cover it with drying oil or varnish. Cover the inside of the door with film to prevent water from getting on it.

Options for wooden cabins for summer showers

Polycarbonate cabin

It is easier to build a polycarbonate booth than a wooden one, but you will need welding experience. The fact is that for polycarbonate it is necessary to weld a frame from a metal profile. A profile with a cross-section of 40x60 mm will be used for the racks, and a smaller cross-section can be used for the strapping. Using a wooden frame for polycarbonate is not advisable, since both materials tend to “play” with changing weather conditions. This can cause polycarbonate sheets to become deformed.

The manufacturing process of a metal frame for polycarbonate is similar to a wooden structure. The main pillars are concreted, and then the upper and lower lintels are welded. In the middle of the frame you need to make three jumpers so that the polycarbonate sheets do not bend. The fourth one is not needed. It will interfere with the doors. Weld a frame for the tank on top. Make a frame for the door from a profile with a section of 20x20 mm and fix it with hinges to the counter. Paint the entire structure with waterproof paint.

For cladding, use opaque honeycomb polycarbonate sheets, 6-10 mm thick. Cut a large sheet into fragments to fit the size of the booth using a circular saw. Fix the resulting polycarbonate plates to the frame with self-tapping screws and a thermal washer. Cover the door with a polycarbonate sheet as well. Bolt the handle and latch to the frame.

Polycarbonate shower option with dressing room

Tank for shower stall

Cabin made of corrugated board

A good option for a summer house would be to build a cabin from corrugated board. Lightweight, strong and durable material will last for many years. For a metal profile, both a metal and a wooden frame are suitable, but always with additional cross bars. The sheets of corrugated sheets are soft, and additional support will not hurt them. We build any of the frames for the metal profile similarly to the options discussed above. In any case, weld the door frame from a metal profile.

The corrugated sheeting is fastened using galvanized self-tapping screws with a sealing washer through one wave. First, secure the corrugated sheets to the side walls, then sheathe the door. If you need to cut the material, use scissors or a special disc with teeth on a grinder so as not to burn the polymer coating of the corrugated sheet when cutting.

Brick cabin

The construction of a brick cabin at the dacha requires the construction of a foundation. To do this, it is enough to dig a trench 200 mm wide and 400 mm deep along the perimeter of the future building. Fill the trench with broken bricks and fill it with liquid concrete so that it seeps between it. A week after the concrete has hardened, begin laying bricks using cement mortar. Don't forget to install a frame for the door. The door itself can be made of wood or a frame can be welded from a profile and covered with a sheet of corrugated board. On the last laying, install wooden blocks across the structure, preferably the thickness of the brick. You will lay the roof on them and attach the tank.

Installing the roof and tank

The material for the roof will need to be hard. Slate or corrugated sheets work well. After securing the roofing material, drill a hole in the center of the roof. Place the tank on top so that the water supply tube goes into the hole. Screw the faucet and watering can onto the tube.

The optimal tank capacity for a country shower is 200 liters. You can buy a plastic or galvanized tank in the store or make it yourself by welding it from stainless steel. Any container with a neck for filling water will serve as a tank. To make a shower for a cottage with heated water, install a heating element with a power of 2 kW into a metal tank. Paint the top of the container with black paint. The dark color attracts the sun's rays and the water will heat up faster.

Diagram of a tank for a heated summer shower

If you install a wood-burning titanium in a cabin at the dacha, then in addition to hot water you will get a heated room. Then you will need to install a second tank with cold water nearby.

Floor and drainage installation

The floor and drainage of a shower for a summer house can be done in two ways:

Summer shower in a country house

If there is free space, a country shower can be built in the house. To do this, it is better to purchase a shower stall in the store. Make a recess in the concrete floor and install an acrylic tray according to the product instructions. Connect the siphon on the pallet to the sewer with a corrugated hose. Seal the joints where the pallet meets the floor with sealant. Next, according to the instructions, assemble a frame from the profile, install the doors, supply cold and hot water from the boiler.

As you can see, you can build a summer shower with your own hands at the dacha from almost any material. The main thing is to prepare drawings, materials, tools and show desire.

In contact with

An outdoor shower made of metal profiles is an inexpensive, convenient and reliable option for those who like to spend hot weekends not in a stuffy city, but among the greenery of their own dacha. A profiled sheet can resist corrosion for up to 50 years, is easy to install, and, most importantly, even a complete beginner in construction can build a summer shower in the country with their own hands. You will find detailed step-by-step instructions on how to do this in this article.

Summer shower made of corrugated sheets - photo of an option with wooden support posts and a decorative top bar

Water drainage: drainage or drainage pit

Construction begins with choosing the most suitable place on the site for an outdoor shower made of metal profiles. Since it is desirable to make maximum use of solar heat to heat water, the shower should be located in an open area, illuminated throughout the day.

Performing drainage.
Organization of a drainage pit.

The first method is relevant if a summer shower made of corrugated sheets is needed only to freshen up and is not intended for long-term bathing. Then you can simply level the plot of land and pave it with paving stones, waste stones or crushed stone.

Creating drainage on clay soils

If the soil is clayey, then you should dig a hole 0.5-1 m deep, which then needs to be filled with alternating layers of gravel and sand 10-15 cm thick. Gravel should always be the top layer, and sand should always be the bottom layer. To save money, gravel can be replaced with small construction waste, such as broken bricks. You can install a shower in your dacha directly on such a drainage.

The second case is when a country shower made of corrugated sheets will be used specifically for the purpose of cleaning yourself from dirt using detergents, not only by you, but also by members of your family. Then, to organize the drainage, a small drainage pit for the shower in the country house is installed.

Drain pit for a shower made of corrugated sheets - photo of an already equipped drain on the side with a pipe connected

To prevent collapse, the walls of the drainage pit should be lined with stone or brick, and the bottom should be left to absorb moisture. In addition, a shower drain in a country house can be organized by digging a plastic pipe or large diameter car tires into the ground.

The size of the hole depends on the soil and your needs. If a summer shower for a dacha made of corrugated sheets is needed for a family of 4 people and will be located on sandy soil, then a depth of 1 m will be sufficient. If we are talking about clay, then 2 m will be the best option.

If the size of the area allows, it is better to organize the drain a little away from the shower itself, but if not, then you can do it right under it.

Do-it-yourself shower in the country: drawings and diagrams with dimensions

In order to make a summer shower from corrugated sheets, you need a drawing or, at least, a diagram of the future construction. They don’t have to be detailed—it’s enough to have basic dimensions, based on which you can plan your purchase of materials and further work with them. In addition, the presence of a diagram allows you to plan the technology and stages of construction.

Drawing of a shower made of corrugated sheets with wooden pillars and a concrete floor

The drawing of a country shower given above is a simplified version. It shows not only the dimensions, but also the schematic appearance of the shower. The diagram below shows a smaller building with the proposed installation of a tank on the roof, as well as a metal frame. I will consider making a shower of exactly this design in this article.

DIY diagram for a shower in the country: drawings with dimensions

Creating a foundation for a shower from a metal profile

The foundation for a shower in a country house is usually made very simple, since the structure itself is light. Before making the floor, you need to install and concrete racks from a 60x40 mm profile to secure the frame. This will increase the reliability of the structure and ensure that a summer shower in a dacha made of corrugated sheets will not tip over due to strong gusts of wind. The above-ground height of the racks can be from 2 to 2.5 meters, depending on the chosen shower design.

Since you need to make a shower from corrugated sheets as reliably as possible, to install the racks you need to dig holes 1-1.2 meters deep. For central Russia this is enough, but for northern latitudes it is worth further clarifying the depth of soil freezing in your area and deepening the racks below this value. A small layer of crushed stone should be poured into the bottom of the holes and compacted thoroughly. Then the pillars are placed strictly vertically and the holes are filled with concrete.

Take your time

Before installing a garden shower made of metal profiles on racks, you need to wait about a week. During this time, the concrete will have time to gain at least part of its strength. When performing concrete work and installing racks, it is imperative to use a building level.

Making the floor

Making a floor for a summer shower is a simple process and, first of all, depends on what type of drain is chosen. If this is a drainage, then you need to bring a pipe from the drain to it, if it is located to the side, or put a wooden grate directly on top of it, which will act as a floor in the shower in the country.

You can, again, install a wooden grate over the pit, or cover it with a removable concrete lid with a drain hole. The remaining floor area is filled with cement mortar, having previously installed formwork around the edges from boards 70-80 mm high. To ensure good drainage for a shower in the country, it is necessary to make a floor with a slope towards the drain. Otherwise, water may begin to flow down the sides of the concrete screed.

Building a shower in a country house with your own hands begins with installing supports and making a floor from concrete or wood

If a summer shower for a dacha made of corrugated sheets is located not above the pit itself, but not far from it, then it is necessary to organize a drain. Again, this can be done by concreted plastic drain and pipe into the floor, or by using special plastic or metal pallets.

In the latter case, you can either pour a concrete screed under the country shower from a corrugated sheet, or make a floor platform from wooden boards. However, regardless of the material, the platform should not be solid, but with a square hole in the center. Its size should be such that the selected shower tray for the dacha can easily fit there with its deep part, and it should be supported by the protruding sides. The height of the floor can be greater than the depth of the tray if it is made of metal, and should be equal if it is made of plastic.

This is due to the fact that a plastic shower tray for a country house is not very strong, and if you hang it without support, it can simply fall apart under the weight of a person. If the depth of the pallet is small, then the problem is solved with the help of special supports. The cheapest way to do this is to use a regular wooden grate.

Rules for constructing a drain pipe

If you decide to use a concrete screed as the floor, then the drain pipe is concreted, but if it is a wooden platform, then it passes under it.

Frame structure

Before you make a shower from a metal profile, you need to make its frame. To do this, after the concrete foundation has hardened, we connect the installed racks with light metal profiles or wooden blocks, while leaving space for installing the door. If the frame for a shower in a country house is made of wood, then it must be treated with an antiseptic composition, which will prevent it from rotting, as well as the appearance of mold and mildew.

There are two ways to secure the harness to the posts. If it is made of metal, then it is most reliable to weld the profiles to the racks. If you do not know how to work with a welding machine, and therefore cannot weld a summer shower with your own hands from corrugated sheets, then you can use metal screws or screw connections for fastening. For the latter, you will need to pre-drill holes in the profile. Wooden crossbars are attached only with self-tapping screws.

Fastening the shower frame frame from a metal profile - photo of a bolted connection

The lower transverse profile must be fixed at the floor level, the second from the top - according to the height of the corrugated sheet used. In order for the frame for a country shower to be sufficiently rigid and reliable, 1-2 more crossbars are installed between them. Finally, the last, uppermost transverse profile is mounted 20-25 cm higher than the previous one. It is needed for making a shower roof from corrugated sheets and installing a tank.

Subtleties of attaching a shower door

When installing the frame frame for a summer shower made of corrugated sheets with your own hands, do not forget about the door. Therefore, only the two upper crossbars are attached on all four sides, and all the rest - only on three. In addition, the hinges for the door must be welded in advance, before the walls are covered.

Thus, making a frame for a shower from a metal profile with your own hands is quite simple. Corrugated sheeting is lightweight and does not require a strong and heavy frame. Even for installing racks, a profile of 40×20 or 60×40 mm is sufficient. Don't be scared by the fact that this entire structure can be movable after assembly. Its rigidity will be provided by walls made of corrugated sheets attached to the frame.

This material is one of the best options for covering a shower in a country house, cheaper and easier. It is not only reliable and durable, but is also not afraid of moisture and looks very bright and attractive.

Wall covering

The next step after making the frame is finishing the shower with metal profiles on three sides. To fasten it, again, use self-tapping screws or rivets. It is necessary to fasten the corrugated sheet every two waves. The self-tapping screw must be screwed into the bottom of the wave and must be straight, otherwise the attachment points will quickly corrode.

Sometimes, for greater reliability, the profiled sheet is secured at the bottom and top using a bolted connection. However, if you are building a shower from corrugated sheets with your own hands, then this is difficult to implement physically - you will need help with fixing the sheet. In addition, there is no need to do so, since fastening with self-tapping screws is reliable if done correctly.

Covering the walls of a summer shower with corrugated sheets with bolted connections

For fastening, it is better to use roofing screws with special washers made of self-vulcanizing rubber. On the inside, the attachment point must be sealed with special waterproof sealants or simply painted. Finishing a shower in a country house should be done with screws or rivets that are short enough so as not to pierce the profile of the crossbars right through.

When making a summer shower from a metal profile with your own hands, the last stage of sewing is installing the door.

Door manufacturing and installation

Since corrugated sheeting is made from thin sheets of steel, you cannot simply weld hinges to it and use it as a door - with this application, the sheet very quickly deforms under its own weight. Therefore, in order to make a shower door from corrugated sheets with your own hands, you need to weld a frame, onto which you will then attach a metal profile.

To make the frame, you should use a profile of the same section as for the racks with crossbars. If the width of the side of the summer shower is 1.5 meters or less, then the width of the door should be the same. If the width of the side is larger, then you need to leave 1.5 meters for the door, install an additional profile parallel to the racks, and sew up the metal shower for the dacha with corrugated sheeting in the remaining part. The height of the frame is determined based on the height of the corrugated sheet.

Trimming parts of the door frame at 45º and checking the correct angle

To make a door frame, you need to measure the profile of the required length, then cut the joints at 45° and weld. If you are making a door for an outdoor shower from corrugated sheets with your own hands, then before welding, be sure to lay out the profiles on a thick sheet of plywood or OSB (at least 10 mm) and secure them with clamps. If this is not done, then during welding the frame will “lead”, as a result of which it will not be able to be used for its intended purpose.

After the frame is ready, two crossbars and hinges are welded to it, and then sewn up with corrugated sheets. After sewing, a handle is screwed onto the door, and two latches are installed: inside and outside. If desired, you can install a small latch lock directly into the profile, then a shower made of corrugated sheets can be used to store various bath items. In addition, coat hooks can be screwed onto the crossbars.

Roof and tank for country shower

Finally, you have reached the last stage and have almost completed your shower at the dacha with your own hands from corrugated sheets. All the hardest part is over - all that remains is to choose a suitable water tank and install it.

You can buy a flat plastic tank at any construction supermarket. This shape is specially designed for summer showers. A shower container for a country house is usually taken with a volume of 200 liters - this is enough for a small family. Since building a shower in a country house from a metal profile requires a lightweight frame, you cannot take a metal tank for installation on the roof.

Plastic tank for a country shower with a built-in fitting with a watering can

Plastic tanks for summer showers for summer cottages are usually sold with a fitting already installed. All you have to do is screw the valve with the shower net into it and you're done.

If there is no fitting, then you will have to make the hole yourself. However, it's not difficult - just follow these steps:

in the right place, draw a circle of the required diameter;
drill holes around the circumference with the smallest drill you have;
With a sharp knife, simply connect the holes;
insert the pipe into the resulting hole;
Clamp it well on both sides with washers and rubber gaskets.

If you don’t have a small-diameter drill, you can take a medium one, only the places for drilling will need to be marked in advance, not along the circle itself, but slightly inside it.

You need to install the shower tank in your dacha on the roof. If its dimensions are smaller than the dimensions of the roof, then it is necessary to weld the attachment point. This can be achieved using a single 60x40 profile that is welded parallel to the door so that the tank can be placed on it and the top cross member at the rear, but it should not protrude beyond them.

Installing a tank on a shower made of corrugated sheets - photos of two options of different sizes

Next, along the perimeter of the tank, you need to weld or secure with self-tapping screws strips of metal, a profile or wooden blocks. They should protrude from the top, forming sides, and from the bottom of the profile by about 5-7 cm. Thus, you can fix the tank on a summer shower for a summer residence, and also provide the opportunity to attach the insulation from the bottom of the tank. Instead of a combination of profile and steel sheet, you can immediately use angles with a wide shoulder.

After the container for the country shower is installed, the open openings must be covered with corrugated sheeting. It must be installed with a slope so that water drains without lingering on the roof. You need to attach the corrugated sheet in the same way as on the walls.

In order for water heated by the sun to retain heat longer, it is better to insulate the tank. If the upper part of the tank and its walls are illuminated by the sun and serve to heat the water, then the lower part, inaccessible to the sun's rays, only contributes to heat loss. It is this that should be insulated using any material that does not lose its properties when exposed to moisture. In this case, for another 1-2 hours after sunset, a summer shower made of corrugated sheets will delight you with pleasant warm water.

Subtleties of upgrading the tank for more comfortable use of a summer shower

Typically, a shower head for a summer house is chosen from inexpensive - often even plastic - options, since they better withstand outdoor conditions. The same applies to the faucet - it is better to take the cheapest Chinese faucet for a country shower with the expectation that it will have to be replaced in a year or two. It is also desirable that soap dishes and shelves for shampoos and other accessories be made of thick plastic and installed on crossbars.

Finally, let's focus on a few subtleties:

In order for the water from the tank to be warmer, it should be taken not from the bottom, but from the surface, since warm water always rises to the top, and cold water always sinks to the bottom. This is achieved using a flexible plastic tube, one end of which is attached to the pipe and the other to the float.
You should buy a black tank - it heats up much faster.
To heat water faster, you can use the roof. Two holes should be cut: 5-10 cm above the bottom of the tank and at the very bottom. Then insert the pipes into them and connect them with a long flexible black tube. This tube needs to be laid out on the roof of the shower in the form of a coil. Thus, cold water from the bottom will circulate through the tube, heat up and rise to the top.

Plastic pipes are one of the most popular materials for crafts. And this is quite natural: they are publicly available, inexpensive, cutting and installation do not require special skills or special equipment.

DIY crafts made from plastic pipes will look especially harmonious in the countryside. We share a selection of fresh ideas that motivate creative experiments.

1. Water procedures

On a hot summer day, you really want to cool off at the dacha, quickly and conveniently. A shower made of plastic pipes will help with this. A watering hose must be attached to a plastic structure with holes. All that remains is to turn on the water and enjoy the pleasant coolness.

2. Comfortable seating

The more plastic pipes included in the design of a chair or chaise lounge, the more weight it will be able to withstand. If you need a high chair for a child, then a minimum number of pipes is enough, and the seat can be made of thick fabric. It is better to make a chaise longue for an adult entirely out of plastic.

3. Air beds

Even the most ordinary walls of a country house, made of nondescript building blocks, will transform hanging flower beds. Even a child can make such crafts from plastic pipes for the dacha. Pipes with holes, plugs covering their sides, and metal fasteners are all you need to make unusual flower beds.

4. Drying things quickly is easy

It’s worth spending a little time and you can make a compact clothes dryer from plastic pipes. Such a product will weigh very little, so it can be easily placed in the most illuminated place on the site.

5. To make strawberries taste better than your neighbors'

It often happens that strawberries grown in the usual way - in the garden - ripen unevenly and can even rot. After all, the sun may not reach one side of it at all, since often the fruits lie on the ground or are under the leaves. A vertical bed made from a piece of large-diameter plastic pipe will help solve the problem. Strawberries, like a climbing plant, will definitely find a way out - through the holes in the plastic.

6. Plastic fence

Making an external fence separating the street from the garden plot from plastic pipes is probably not the best idea. But using them to protect an animal enclosure or another area of the dacha is a reasonable decision. To make this mini-fence look like a real one, paint it with silver paint.

7. A fabulous place for friendly gatherings

It is easy to assemble an unusual gazebo from pipes, which will surely become a favorite place for a country holiday. Stretch ropes between the pipes and plant climbing plants, such as ivy, underneath them. When he grows up, it will be pleasant to be in the gazebo even on a sunny day. To make the gazebo look more picturesque, use brown pipes.

8. Efficient watering system

Watering a lawn or other large area at the dacha is not the most exciting activity. A garden irrigation system made from plastic pipes will help you get rid of it. Simply run a water hose to several connected sections and turn on the water. If you make the holes small, you will get a drip irrigation system.

9. Simple and mobile greenhouse

Thin pipes become the main material for making a greenhouse. The main advantage of such a garden craft made from plastic pipes is its mobility. At the end of the summer season, the greenhouse can be easily disassembled, and the next season it can be reinstalled in any chosen location.

10. Fencing for the terrace

A small plastic fence for the terrace will show that the owners of the dacha are not expecting guests at this time. In addition, you can make a regular fence from sections of plastic pipes. To make it look more impressive, paint the plastic in a bright color.

11. Vertical flower bed

Growing seedlings is quite a troublesome task. A flower bed made of plastic pipes will help make this process more organized and convenient. If you spend a little more time, you can supply water to it, and then the process of watering the seedlings will become automated. It is enough to make holes in the bottom of the containers in which the plants are planted.

12. Fun swing

Plastic pipes with ropes holding the swing will become convenient handrails. The manufacturing process for such a swing is quite simple. Eight pieces of pipe with holes, rope and a board are all you need to make them.

13. For lovers of outdoor activities

Active recreation, in which all family members participate, is an excellent option for spending time in the country. Both adults and children will be captivated by the game of football. Finding the ball won’t be difficult, it’s just a matter of looking behind the goal. They can be assembled from plastic pipes. You will also need a piece of any mesh.

Support for flowers.

Decorating your terrace or veranda with flowering plants is a great idea. But carrying out many pots and placing them in different places can become a tedious task. A flower stand made of plastic pipes will help solve the problem. It weighs very little, so rearranging it if necessary is very easy.

16. Laconic flower pots

Identical flower pots will make the interior of a country house more stylish and cozy. If you don’t want to spend extra money, you can make them from equal sections of plastic pipe. PVC pipe plugs act as the bottom of flower pots. They just need to be put on one of the edges.

17. To feel like a knight

Depending on the type, some pipes are quite easy to bend. This is possible if the product is of small diameter and made of flexible plastic. If you cannot bend the pipe, you can heat it slightly. For example, with a hair dryer or over an open flame.

It’s unlikely that anyone would agree to deny themselves the pleasure of taking a shower in the open air, which allows them to freshen up at the end of a hard day’s work. In this article we will tell you how to make a summer shower with your own hands from various materials (polycarbonate, metal profiles, brick, wood), show the exact dimensions, and also provide photo and video instructions.

Such an approach to the manufacture of a shower structure will allow you to save on expensive materials, and what is equally important - to produce a structure that best suits your individual preferences.

Selecting a location and options

The place for the shower is chosen, as a rule, in an open place, located at some elevation above the general level of the suburban area. Since structures of this type use solar energy to heat water, the place for them should not be located in the shade of trees or other high-rise objects.

It is known that summer shower cabins of the most varied architecture are traditionally built on our summer cottages (including quite original designs). Moreover, all of them can be reduced to the following execution options:

lightweight buildings without strong side walls;
lightweight structures equipped with improvised side walls;
capital shower houses with walls made of polycarbonate or similar material.

Let's look at each of the above options in more detail.

Shower stall dimensions

The inside of the shower stall should be comfortable enough to easily bend, turn around and stand freely. Therefore, you can start from these sizes:

Height 2–3 m.
Length 1.9 m.
Width 1.4 m.

These sizes are quite convenient. Taking into account the thickness of the walls, the room will be slightly smaller. In this case, the shower stall itself will have an average size of 1 × 1, as well as a dressing room of 0.6 × 0.4 m.

From scrap materials

The simplest shower design made from scrap materials contains a tank with a built-in tap, a standard shower head and a regular watering hose. Such a simple structure is installed near the house, and the tank is mounted on the wall or roof of the building at a height slightly higher than human height.

The location of the tank should be chosen in such a way that the sun's rays linger on it as long as possible during the day.

After fixing the collection container, a valve tap is built into it, onto which a hose of suitable length is put on with a shower head installed at its end.

The convenience of this option for a summer shower is that in this case you can do without installing a separate shower stall. The main thing you should pay attention to is to properly protect the wall and roof of the house from the destructive effects of moisture accumulating near the tank. For this purpose, the area of the building in the area where the latter is located should be insulated using special water-repellent impregnations or simply covered with several layers of ordinary oilcloth.

Note that this embodiment has natural disadvantages, which are as follows:

In this case, the shower area is completely unprotected from the wind;
a significant part of the daytime it will be in the shade of the house;
there is a threat of gradual destruction of the walls of the house from moisture accumulating in this place.

Taking into account all the listed disadvantages, the use of such structures is, as a rule, limited.

The process of building a summer shower made of wood consists of several successive steps. First of all, you need to prepare the place. It should be well ventilated, since under the influence of constant exposure to moisture the structure can quickly become unusable. Next, you need to dig a hole 1x1 m and a depth of 0.4 m. Fill it with crushed stone. This must be done so that the soapy water does not spread over the summer cottage, but has time to be absorbed into the soil.

If you have organized the drainage of sewage waste into a drainage pit, then skip this stage of preparation.

Covering the frame with clapboard.
Painting.
Tank installation.

Frame construction

Take boards with a cross section of 30 mm × 15 cm and make a 1x1 base. Attach 4 side beams to it, the cross-section of which is 100x70 mm. They will serve as the basis for installing the tank. They must be installed in the grooves.

Frame covering

To cover the frame, you can use false timber, blockhouse or lining. When installing them, leave a gap of up to 3 mm between each strip. This also applies to the first one at the base. In this case, under the influence of moisture, the product will be able to expand freely. If this is not taken into account, then the summer shower will turn into an “accordion”.

Painting

Once the sheathing is complete, you can begin painting. To do this, the entire surface should be coated with antifungal impregnation. The next layer will be façade acrylic water-borne varnish. It is applied in 3 layers.

You should not skimp on varnish, so it is better to apply it in sufficient quantity. It is important to ensure that water slides easily over the surface of the walls and does not linger in the shower. This painting is carried out both outside and inside.

Tank installation

To store water, you can install a 100 liter tank. The tank can be made of different materials, stainless steel, plastic, etc. You can buy a ready-made tank just for this purpose. Some home owners often find one or another container to install on an outdoor shower.

Finally, all that remains is to hang the curtain on the hooks. On average, such a shower can be built in 1–2 days.

Photo instructions for making a summer shower made of wood

Another option for building a shower is to use polycarbonate. To build it you will need to purchase the following building material:

Polycarbonate. The sheet size is 2.1 × 1.2 m. For arranging a shower, a thickness of 8–15 mm will be sufficient. As for the choice of color, choose one that is less transparent milky or bronze.
For fastening you will need special hardware, tapes and corners.
Material for the frame, for example, wood, metal corner or pipe, brick, aluminum profile, etc.
Shower tank.
Shower sprayer.
If necessary, a plastic pipe for drainage.

We have already discussed the general principle of constructing a frame for a summer shower made of wood above. Therefore, it is worth paying attention to some specific features when working with polycarbonate.

Any material, whether stone, wood or metal, can withstand the weight of polycarbonate. But there is one caveat. This material is distinguished by its windage, so the frame should be equipped with a sufficient number of cross-shaped, vertical and horizontal jumpers.

The thickness of the frame material for polycarbonate may be less than for wood.

Tank installation

The tank is installed on an installed frame. Due to this, the water in it is heated by the sun's rays. Usually a flat tank is installed, but there are no strict rules.

It is better to install a polycarbonate shower tank under the roof. Thus, there will be a greenhouse effect and the water will heat up much faster and cool down accordingly.

Installation of polycarbonate

If you want to make a locker room, you will need two sheets of polycarbonate. Use an opaque one for the walls and a transparent one for the roof, so the water will heat up faster. First of all, make blanks by cutting the sheets to the required sizes.

A polycarbonate sheet can be cut with a regular knife both along the voids and across.

Be sure to sand the cut area with sandpaper. Check to see if any sawdust has gotten inside the honeycomb. If yes, then they can be removed with a vacuum cleaner. To avoid chipping when drilling holes, step back 3-4 cm from the edge. Drill between the stiffeners. Be sure to cover the edges of the sheet with perforated tape. This is done to prevent debris, dust, water, etc. from getting inside the honeycombs. As for the end part, use an end profile, H-shaped or corner.