Boat made from one sheet of plywood. Plywood boat Drawings of wooden plywood boats

Many men love fishing, and most prefer to fish from a boat. Now, when the choice is so great that your eyes run wide. It would seem that come and choose. But many fishermen want to build a motor boat with their own hands from plywood or other material. Some people are not satisfied with the prices, others simply like to do everything themselves. Is it realistic to build a motor boat with your own hands from plywood?

Of course yes. Moreover, designs for similar boats have already been developed, just take it and implement it! “Sew and Glue” type projects such as “North 520”, “Breeze 26” and “Breeze 42” have gained well-deserved popularity among fishermen. The plans for building these boats are sold in real scale, which greatly simplifies the manufacturing process. At the same time, you should definitely remember that a professional can handle the design: the need to accurately calculate indicators, taking into account the slightest nuances, dictates its own rules. In general, you can build a boat with your own hands from plywood, you just need to find the drawings and the desire. Of course, at least a little carpentry experience wouldn't hurt. If you do construction only in your free time, it will take about 10 days, but if you do it without interrupting other things, you can do it in 2-3 days.

Materials

You can purchase them at any hardware store. But don’t forget that they must be of high quality!

1) Plywood. For building a boat with your own hands, only one type is suitable - “sea”, 4-5 mm thick. It is made from hardwood, which means that the boat will be built from birch veneer. The plywood sheet must be undamaged. The price will be slightly higher than usual, but quality is very important here, since the reliability of the product depends on it. The average cost of one such sheet is 250 rubles.

2) Planed boards 25-40 mm thick. The price of such a board starts from 11,000 rubles. for 1 sq.m.

3) Reiki. They will cost you about 2000 rubles.

4) Electric jigsaw. Price from 3000 rub.

5) Steel wire. It costs from 80 rubles. per meter

6) Epoxy resin. A bucket of this material will cost from 4,500 rubles.

7) Varnish. Costs from 300 rubles. per jar.

8) Fiberglass tape (thick T11 or thin T13). From 200 rub. per skein.

9) Drill and screwdriver. From 2000 rub. for each of the instruments.

10) Screws, self-tapping screws, brass nails and various clamps (useful for gluing boat elements with your own hands). All together will cost you about 1000 rubles.

11) Set of clamps. You will need to spend about 1,500 rubles on them.

12) Grinding machine (from 2000 rubles) or sandpaper (from 50 rubles per meter).

The structure of the future vessel

The main element is the keel. It's like the backbone of a boat. Frames are responsible for transverse rigidity. Their lower part is the bottom of the boat. The top of the boat frame is covered with plywood.

Construction algorithm

Despite the fact that there is nothing complicated in building a boat with your own hands, we offer a list of simple steps thanks to which your boat will last for many years!

1) Look through different boat plans and choose the one you like best.

2) Transfer the contours of the pattern onto a plywood sheet. To do this, you can use ready-made patterns made to order or make them yourself.

3) The blanks are cut out very carefully with a finishing file. We cut the edges of the parts at an angle to reduce gaps. Sand all parts with a grinding machine or sandpaper.

4) Assembly. Connect the cut out boat blanks with your own hands so that the sides and bottom of the future vessel are formed. Connect it all with screws and epoxy.

5) Sew all seams using wire. Connect the ends of the workpieces until they completely coincide along the seam. Shape the hull using spacers installed between the sides.

6) On both sides of the middle of the boat, 2 frames should be installed at a distance of 3 cm from each other (there will be 9 pairs in total). There are 4 connecting elements installed on the bow for fastening the sheets and 2-3 elements will be needed for the stern..

7) Turn the boat over with your own hands. Use a milling machine to go along the seam connecting the halves of the boat hull. The result is an even gap for gluing the halves.

8) Taking out the frames one by one, pull together the halves of the hull, then install them on the pulled sheets, in the holes already made.

9) Glue the seam and the places where the frames are attached with epoxy glue.

10) Adjust and glue the horizontal seams.

11) Connect the vertical seams of the sides.

13) A partition is installed between the frames, and support strips are attached to them. Then the gaps between the frames are sewn up, resulting in bow, rowing and stern cans.

14) All joints of the boat are puttied and glued with fiberglass with your own hands.

15) The keel and longitudinal steps are attached.

16) Finishing: the entire surface of the boat is sanded and painted, inside and out.

This completes the construction of the boat. It turns out to be light, maneuverable, inexpensive and convenient. It is better to store it on land and use it on calm lakes and rivers. It is necessary to carefully monitor the seams and integrity of the vessel. Having built a motor boat from plywood with your own hands, operating it in the future will not be difficult. Transporting this boat does not pose any problems: it is lightweight and can even be transported on the roof of a car.

Care, proper storage and control will help to extend its service life for a long time. And many pleasant memories associated with her will brighten your life. All I had to do was make up my mind and build a motor boat out of plywood with my own hands.

Almost every craftsman can build homemade fishing boats. You just need to choose the right material and connect it according to the diagram. This device can be used not only for fishing, but also for walking along a pond. You can also buy the product in a store, but it is not sold everywhere, and the cost is not at all pleasing. During the manufacture of the product, it is necessary to fix all parts securely and firmly. No joint should allow water to pass through. You should also calculate the maximum weight of people who will be transported by the fishing boat.

Most often, users are interested in how to make a boat themselves from classic wood materials. To do this, you first need to select the appropriate drawing. You will also need plywood sheets 0.5 cm thick.

You can make a boat with your own hands using the following technology:

1. First, you should draw paper templates according to the selected drawing and apply the contours to the plywood.
2. You can cut out the fragments using an electric jigsaw or a saw with fine teeth. In this case, special attention should be paid to the angles at which the parts will be joined at the ends.
3. Fastening frames and transoms. To do this, you can use glue or galvanized screws.
4. Fixation of sides, bottom. Here you will also need a special strong waterproof glue. Additionally, the bottom from the inside of the boat is reinforced with slats. Absolutely all parts must match each other in size. The chamfers of those parts that will be in contact must be removed so that there is no gap between the surfaces.
5. Seam taping, corner reinforcement. To ensure that the connections do not allow moisture to pass through, they must be well sealed. Here you will need Aerosil and epoxy resin.
6. Fastening the oarlock and seats.
7. Sanding the outer surface. This is done as soon as the product is completely dry.
8. Impregnating a homemade product for fishing with a protective compound and painting it. It is better to use special paint that is intended for a wooden vessel.

To increase the strength of the product, it is necessary to make the tailgate and frames from several layers of material. If the boat is equipped with a motor, then the side on which it will be installed must be reinforced with hardwood wooden plates and also additionally glued with fiberglass.

To build a home “boat”, it is not necessary to use wood or plywood. You can even build a device from plastic bottles. At the same time, the made device will float just as well and is quite suitable for fishing (in addition, the master will spend less effort, time, and money on it).

For work you will need the following materials and tools:

• bottles (a small container will not work here; it is better to take products designed for 2 liters);
• glue and tape (they must be resistant to moisture);
• wire;
• stationery knife or scissors;
• plywood;
• wooden or metal crossbars.

The container is first cleared of labels. Next, it needs to be made more rigid. To do this, the bottles are placed in the freezer, screwed tightly, and then placed in a warm place. The lids must be additionally fixed with water-resistant glue.

You need to form “logs” from the container. You can connect the elements with an improvised coupling, which is cut from the center of an empty bottle. The elements are fixed at the bottom. In this case, the protrusions of the other must fit into the recesses of one container. Next, the workpiece is fixed with glue and tape. Now you need to cut off the top parts from two bottles and put them on the necks of the finished design. The rest of the logs are made in this way.

From these products, collected in groups of 8, floats are made. You can connect the fragments with strong wire. The floats are secured to each other with wooden blocks. After the transverse parts are ready, you can attach the plywood bottom to them.

This ensures the reliability and waterproofness of the joints.

To give the product a beautiful appearance, you can sheathe it with plywood or metal sheets.

Among all fishing devices, a boat is the most cherished dream of a fisherman. Moreover, the ship can be quite small. For example, folding models can be taken with you when fishing with the least chance of not fitting them into the car. Most often, such structures are made of duralumin.

Additionally, you will need rubberized fabric, linings and rivets, wood, primer, wood, paint.

Installation of such products involves several stages:

1. Selection of material. You need 4 fragments for the sides and 2 for the bottom. You will also need 3 cross members: 2 spacers to ensure the reliability of the structure, and 1 seat.
2. Cutting out fragments, fitting them and bending them.
3. Making holes for rivets. The distance between them should not exceed 2 cm. All places where rivets were installed must be thickly coated with paint to seal them.
4. Galvanized fasteners are used to secure the seat.
5. Priming and painting the fixture.

It is better to fish from this type of boat. It is unlikely to be suitable for a romantic walk. In order not to spoil the duralumin, it is better to first make fragments from cardboard and fit them.

By equipping the device with outboard motors, you can build a real boat. But it is not always needed.

Most often, fishermen prefer oars, because they are much quieter.

Every professional fisherman or hunter simply must have a boat in their arsenal. At the moment, the market is overflowing with an assortment of boats of various models and modifications for different tastes and incomes.

This article will provide a detailed description of how to create your own boat with your own hands.

Self-assembly of a boat from plywood

Many people wonder whether it is possible to make a high-quality swimming device on their own, save on it and enjoy the manufacturing process.

Boats made at home have a number of undeniable advantages over their factory “brothers”:

• Product weight. When using plywood, weight is significantly reduced compared to similar wooden or metal models.
• Using solid sheets will allow you to create ideal shapes, which will provide excellent stability and ensure ease of launching.
• Minimum final cost. You will only have to spend money on consumables, such as plywood, boards, glue, and varnish. It is worth noting that a lot can be found in the garage of a thrifty owner.

People with carpentry skills will spend one and a half weeks on this work, subject to working in their free time or two full days.

Dimensions and drawings

Let's take a closer look at the technical capabilities of the future boat.

Relatively flat and narrowed bottom with a slight rise in the bow and stern. The height of the bow of the side is 540 millimeters, which in turn is greater than that of many motor boats of this class.

To ensure that the high nose does not interfere with visibility, a cut is made along the length of the nose by 100 millimeters. The bow is designed in such a way as to facilitate the embarkation or disembarkation of passengers, as well as loading.

Special cargo compartments are provided under the bow and stern. The design provides for the possibility of using oars and low-power motors up to 8 horsepower.

This model can be safely called multifunctional, as it is perfect for hunting, fishing and just household needs.

It is possible to install a canopy, in case of bad weather conditions, on a special aluminum structure for which there are nests on the side of the boat.

Maximum length in meters 2.3. Width in meters 1.34

Side height:

• The nose is 54 centimeters.
• The back is 40 centimeters.
• Stern height 45 centimeters.
• The body weight is twenty kilograms.
• Load capacity 180 kilograms.

Possibility of installing an outboard motor from two to eight horsepower.

It is possible to use one pair of oars.

Figure No. 1:

• A) View of the bottom.
• B) Top view.
• B) Transom (blanks)

Figure No. 2. External cladding (sheet preparation):

• A) Board.
• B) Cheekbone.
• B) Bottom.

Materials for construction

To build a homemade boat, you will need some experience with carpentry tools.

Below is a list of tools you will need:

1. Screwdriver
2. Manual milling machine.
3. Hand sander.
4. Clamps.
5. Electric jigsaw.

List of materials for assembly:

1. Waterproof plywood with a thickness of at least 4 millimeters and dimensions of 2.5 by 1.25 meters and one and a half sheets of 6 millimeters.
2. Planed boards with a thickness of 25 millimeters.
3. Wooden slats.
4. Brass nails.
5. Self-tapping screws for wood.
6. Epoxy resin.
7. The varnish is waterproof.
8. Fiberglass.
9. Beam 50 by 3400
10. Beam 40 by 20 by 4000

Assembly - detailed instructions, step by step

Making a frame for the sides

The frame is assembled on a workbench and finished on the ground. Place the keel on the workbench, to one side of which the sternpost with a pre-attached transom is attached, and to the other side the stem.

The keel part with attached frames and stems is connected with nails.

You should carefully check for any distortions and, if there are any, make adjustments.

Adjustments can be made by stretching the string between the stem and the transom. After making sure that the axes coincide, you can finally fix it.

A thin cloth or paper impregnated with thick paint or resin is laid between all connections.

After the stems have been secured, you can begin installing the frames.

A cutout for the keel should be made on the frames at right angles. For a tight and reliable fastening of the frame, the cut under the keel should be made 0.5 millimeters narrower than the frame.

The fit should be checked with a stretched rope, which should coincide with the beams. By installing the frames at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the keel, you can finally secure it. After all the operations performed, you should set the deflection angle.

For this purpose, you can use a round or rectangular beam, which is temporarily fixed to the ends of the keel from the inside, and an 11-centimeter beam is inserted between the keel and the beam.

To eliminate lateral distortions, the stems and transom, as well as the beams, are fastened with some kind of beam.

Frame covering

After this, he will draw in the same dimensions the formats of the plywood sheets prepared for cladding and try on templates on these sheets to minimize the amount of waste.

The contours of parts of natural size when marking on plywood can be obtained by connecting the points found when setting the given dimensions from the axes of the parts using a long ruler or pattern.

All parts are cut out with a jigsaw with fine teeth, taking into account a margin of 2 - 3 millimeters. For subsequent joining of sheets, you will need to add 70 millimeters.

Before gluing, you should align the axes of the parts to be glued using a thread driven between the boards on which the workpiece will be attached.

After the glue has hardened, identical parts of the board should be knocked together with small nails and adjusted together with a plane.

Along both edges of the cheekbones, at a distance of 12 millimeters, holes with a diameter of 2 millimeters are drilled in increments of 50 millimeters for the wire fasteners that will be used to connect later.

Fastening the casing should begin from the bow of the boat, fastening it with copper wire through holes made along the bottom and side. Twist the wire from the outside two or three turns with a slight slack.

Then we sheathe the transom and bottom of the boat

After the sides are assembled, templates A and B are installed and temporarily secured in the positions shown on the layout of the skin drawing.

Having assembled the bottom according to the same principle that was used when assembling the sides, you should install the boat transom and secure it with 3x18 screws at a distance of 50 millimeters using glue.

There is a possibility that the sides will protrude aft beyond the transom; in this case, the edges should be trimmed with a plane.

After all the above operations have been completed, you should finally tighten all the paper clips with pliers and crimp everything from the inside.

Fiberglass

All cracks and joints of the resulting boat should be glued with fiberglass cut into strips.

The first layer must be at least 25 millimeters wide, and the next two layers at least 80 millimeters, however, it is worth considering that the 2nd and 3rd layers should be offset in different directions from 10 to 15 millimeters.

After the fiberglass has completely hardened, cut off the protruding ends of the wire fasteners and glue them with fiberglass on the outside.

The bottom should be reinforced with strips to increase its rigidity and increase its service life. This is done this way:

The prepared strips are drilled for screws in increments of 20 - 25 centimeters. After this, the blanks are laid out in place and attached to screws, marked with a pencil and removed.

The marked areas are treated with glue and the workpieces are screwed back.

After the glue has dried, the screws can be unscrewed and the holes filled with specially prepared nails cut from wood.

After removing the auxiliary devices, all holes in the boat skin must be filled with sawdust or wood flour mixed with epoxy resin.

The inside of the body is treated with hot drying oil. To paint the bottom and cans of the boat, you can use regular oil-based paint.

Glue selection

The following adhesive materials are used in the construction of boats:

• Epoxy resins.
• Vinyl ester resins.
• Polyester resins.

Let's take a closer look at the above listed resins:

1. Epoxy resin can safely be called a universal resin used in the production of swimming equipment, and has found indispensable application in composite structures and ship repairs. These resins provide the highest quality adhesive joint in terms of performance.
2. Vinyl ester resin is essentially a hybrid compound. Increased strength is provided by epoxy molecules. Moderate shrinkage during hardening, and high strength prevents the formation of cracks during hardening. It is also worth noting the increased toxicity of this type of resin and the rather high cost compared to other types.
3. Polyester resins can easily be called the cheapest type of resin, used in the construction of ships using plastic.

   The main advantage, in comparison with other types of resins, is the relative cheapness of this product. The only disadvantages include the fact that it is used only for gluing fiberglass.

   These types of resins are used for the construction of boats and yachts and are used to impregnate products in the process of plastic reinforcement.

Regardless of the material, absorbency and adhesion are undoubtedly key to a quality boat.

Any vessel, be it a flat boat, a speedboat or a yacht, gives some sense of freedom, which is now available to many. It would seem that just recently homemade plywood boats have just reached their peak of popularity, but since then a lot of ways to make such structures and methods for processing plywood products have appeared.

Since the proposed design will be small, building a boat from plywood will not cause any difficulties. It is enough just to stock up on materials and tools, as well as make the appropriate calculations.

Description of necessary materials and tools

The advantages of such a material as plywood are not worth listing, since many have probably already encountered the advantages of plywood products.

Note! Plywood boat designs are made from FSF brand material. The thickness of the sheets used varies between 0.5-1.5 cm, depending on the purpose of the structural part that will be made from them.

FSF brand plywood products are characterized by a high level of resistance to moisture. However, during the process, your plywood cabin boat will be additionally processed, and more than once. Pay special attention to the quality of the material when purchasing it. The surface of plywood sheets must be completely free of any defects, damage in the form of cracks and chips, as well as delamination and all kinds of knots that are often found on wood. This point is extremely important, since the final result of your work, as well as the reliability of the structure itself, depends on the quality level of the material.

Experts who have already had to deal with such a task as making a boat from plywood will say that working with a large sheet is much more convenient and comfortable, and, therefore, faster. Therefore, give preference to large-format plywood products.

Supporting materials:

1. Edged planed wood, which will be needed for arranging seats, internal struts and sides. To make a functional boat from plywood, give preference to light wood species.
2. A plastic clamp or thin wire that will be used as a suture material to connect together various parts belonging to the boat's skin. You can use nylon fishing line, but in this case it must have a decent thickness.
3. Adhesive composition for sealing seams formed at the joints of parts. It is best to use mixtures based on polymer resins.

Of course, people who know how to build a boat from plywood can add other materials to this list. But in this case, an example of a minimum set of additional materials is given. Most often, all kinds of varnishing compounds are used as additions, as well as specialized impregnations that prevent rotting and swelling of the structure, which is in contact with water for a long time.

In addition, to cover the seams between parts, you may need a material such as fiberglass, which can be replaced with its analogue - fiberglass.

And of course, don’t forget about the external aesthetics of your product. Paint is also suitable for this, which will allow you to hide all the seams and achieve the desired color.

The tool set is standard in almost every case:

• electric or manual jigsaw;
• a set of blades of various sizes included with the jigsaw;
• a saw designed for working with wood;
• Sander;
• pliers;
• brushes for various purposes: for applying varnish, painting, applying impregnations;
• hammer;
• chisel.

As for the dimensions that a plywood boat can have, design drawings can be very diverse, so it is unlikely that anything specific can be recommended.

However, you can use standard sizes:

• total length of the structure – 3.5 m;
• boat width – 1.35 m;
• side height – 0.5 m.

Having selected a suitable design drawing, it is necessary to transfer all the parts to plywood, after which the sheet is cut according to these markings. To perform this task, you need an electric jigsaw, since other tools can damage the material, and the cut line will be uneven and chipped.

Since in our case we are making a boat, its transom should definitely be covered with an additional layer of fiberglass and, if possible, its structure should be strengthened. For this, you can use boards made from hardwood. In addition, self-tapping screws will help you strengthen the fastenings.

Note! If you have not yet fully figured out how to make a boat from plywood, follow the advice of professionals: the design and calculation stage of the load capacity is very important, because if you make a mistake with the basic parameters of the vessel, the result of your work can hardly be called functional.

As for practical recommendations, before assembly, all structural elements should be finalized using a plane. It would be preferable to use a power tool. After this, you need to make the corresponding holes, which will be used later when you sew the boat hull together.

To make it easier to install the transom, you can use special trestles, which are easy to build yourself. After which the bottom is fixed, then the side parts of the boat.

Note! These details necessarily come down to the bow. Don't forget to check the location and symmetry.

Sheathing parts and the sheathing material itself can be secured in two different ways. In the first case, it can be suture material; in the second case, a special adhesive composition can be used. During this process, you will have to manually align the edges of the plywood, achieving a certain angle.

It is necessary to constantly monitor the compliance of sizes, otherwise you may end up with a large gap between the parts, to eliminate which you will have to not only cut the frames, but also disassemble the entire structure.

Frames are rib-like parts that provide the required level of rigidity for the frame of your boat. These parts are cut out from plywood sheets 6 mm thick and installed in increments of 0.8 m. In the end, you should end up with 4 pieces.

The importance of such a detail as the fender, located along the side line, cannot be underestimated. It can have external or internal placement. If you have stocked up on clamps, then these devices can provide you with invaluable assistance and greatly simplify your work. If you do not have a sufficient number of clamps, it is advisable to use them to fix at least the control points while pressing the fender beam. It would not be amiss to use binders that can be placed between the clamps.

After completing the above work, you can begin installing the frame. If you are not afraid to take risks and have fragments of leftover plywood at your disposal, this part can not be made whole. The main thing is not to forget to form a hole in the middle of the frame.

If you cover this area with a deck, you can end up with a small enclosed area that can be used as storage. You can also use leftover plywood to make a deck.

If you want to learn in more detail how a plywood boat is made, the video review below will help you understand all the intricacies of this process.

Carrying out interior and adhesive work

To carry out adhesive work, you will need to prepare a mixture consisting of epoxy resin and aerosil, mixed in equal proportions. The corner areas of the bottom, transom and sides should be strengthened with wooden fillets or corners.

Gluing of fiberglass tapes is carried out on the areas of internal seams, using a previously prepared mixture. They are also used when fixing frames.

At the end of the gluing work, the bottom flooring, seats, oarlocks and other parts that may be included in your vessel design are installed.

After which the structure is left to dry, and then all external work is carried out on cleaning and covering the seams with fiberglass.

To perform quality painting you should:

• perform the surface degreasing procedure;
• coat the material with a special composition;
• apply putty to eliminate all errors, if any;
• apply a coat of primer.

The coloring composition can be absolutely anything, but it is preferable to use a pigment dye designed for working with wood. Using brushes instead of a spray gun will improve the painting result.

1. Organizational issues
2. What's a yes and a no?
3. Which one should I do?
4. Basic truths
5. Materials
6. How to make a boat?
7. Supply
8. Examples of projects
9. Finally

A boat on the farm may be needed not only for fishing, hunting or recreation on the water. In sparsely populated regions with a developed network of waterways, admiralspb.com pvc boats are a necessity, and in populated areas, the production and rental of watercraft is a profitable business. Everyone knows how boatmen make money at resorts. However, in trade classifiers, small vessels are not classified as goods whose pricing is subject to regulation. Therefore, the question: is this even possible, and how to make a boat with your own hands is quite popular. The answer to the first question is clear: yes, and much simpler than is commonly believed. A good, roomy, reliable and seaworthy boat can be made away from the water without a boathouse or slipway, in any room of suitable size. And how - there is this article about this.

In the preparation of materials for this publication, the books “300 tips on boats, boats and motors” were of great help. Compiled and scientific editor G. M. Novak L. Shipbuilding 1974, “Boats, boats and motors in questions and answers” ​​Handbook ed. G. M. Novak. L. Shipbuilding 1977 and “Kurbatov D. A. 15 projects of ships for amateur construction” L. Shipbuilding 1986. The author expresses deep gratitude to the authors of these informative manuals. Further in the hints for the illustrations they are designated “H74”, “H77” and “K.”, respectively. As for the years of publication, have the waters and winds changed since then? Today's ships are built and sail according to the same laws, only modern materials and computer technology allow them to be used more fully.

Organizational issues

The reader probably already has some questions: is it really that simple? Build it and float? With your wife, kids, passengers, at sea in a storm? Depending on the circumstances, you may need a wake on your rigid hull boat. documents and supplies:

• A boat just for yourself, a small non-navigable body of water - sales receipts for the materials used in case you need to prove that they were not stolen. A small body of water is considered to be a body of water in which the distance from the shore is possible no more than 500 m, and the boat is only for one person;
• A boat for yourself, a navigable body of water of any size - additionally a certificate of the right to operate a small boat (analogous to a license for motor transport) and a certificate of its registration. Both are issued by local transport (water) inspection authorities. On board the boat, its registration number must be indicated in the prescribed form;
• The same as in paragraphs. 1 and 2, the boat can have free passengers - except for the documents under paragraphs. 1 and 2 also a life jacket for each person on board and a mandatory minimum set of supplies, see below;
• Everything is the same, but passengers or cargo are paid - additionally a license for the right to transport passengers or cargo by water;
• Everything according to paragraphs. 1-4, sailing boat or sail-motor boat, incl. with a complete emergency sail - in addition, a yacht helmsman’s certificate or other certificate for the right to operate a sailing vessel;
• The boat was made for sale, not serial - a license for the right to produce small watercraft.

It must be said that on non-navigable water bodies, violations under paragraphs. 1-3 are widespread, and in sparsely populated areas - endemic. The water inspection has neither the legal nor the organizational and technical capabilities to get there. Therefore, claims against the owner of the vessel arise or criminal prosecution begins only after the consequences of the accident.

What's a yes and a no?

There are countless designs of small vessels, but for a novice amateur when choosing a prototype need to be guided by the following. considerations that a homemade boat must satisfy:

1. The boat must be built according to a proven design and/or with full consideration of the vital provisions of the theory of the ship, the rules of shipbuilding and navigation, see below;
2. The boat must be reliable, i.e. strong, durable, stable, spacious in weight and volume, sufficiently seaworthy for the given sailing conditions and at the same time controllable in waves, currents in a river and in a shallow overgrown reservoir;
3. The boat must be light enough so that the owner can pull it ashore or launch it alone, and load it for transportation with an adult and moderately developed assistant;
4. The technology for building a boat should not include operations that require special qualifications or production equipment, but should forgive the mistakes of a beginner and the replacement of standard materials and manufacturing methods available in the given circumstances;
5. It is desirable that the boat can move well and stay on the wave with oars, under a motor and sail - to save fuel and have a complete beneficial rest;
6. The costs of building a boat should be minimal;
7. If the boat is stored away from a body of water, it is highly desirable that it meets the requirements for cartop vessels, i.e. allowed transportation on the top trunk of a passenger car.

Based on all the qualities, in addition to the price of materials, the best choice for your first vessel would be a plywood boat. The boardwalk will cost approx. half the price, but it will be the same number of times heavier and will last much less, except for the option with a thin-walled steel bottom, see below. Homemade fiberglass boats are expensive and difficult to build, although they are reliable and durable. Taking into account all these conditions, the following are not considered further:

• All-metal welded and riveted boats.
• Planing ships.
• Small pleasure catamarans.
• Boats made of foam plastic, plastic bottles, pontoon boats and rectangular planks, etc. exotic.
• Inflatable boat.

The reasons for this “truncation” are as follows. All-metal homemade vessels are not inspected or registered by transport inspection bodies due to the fact that it is technically impossible to ensure their proper reliability in makeshift conditions.

Building a speedboat is not for a beginner. The standard dynamic loads on the planing hull are high, and you can take it on after making sure that your first boat still floats well. Although, I must say, with some experience, at home it is quite possible to build a cartop boat that goes on planing on a small wave with an engine of only 3.5-6 hp, see for example. track. video.

Video: an example of a homemade planing boat and its testing

A small catamaran, let the reader know, is easier to build than a boat of equal capacity, and the restrictions on the choice of materials for it are softer; for example, polystyrene foam can be widely used. On the catamaran bridge (the platform connecting the float hulls) you can stand, walk, tumble as you please, you can put up a tent there and even cook a barbecue. However, a catamaran is not a boat and the issue of homemade catamarans requires separate consideration.

Exotic boats made from scrap materials are simply dangerous. For example, a monohull boat made of foam plastic will turn out to be either something extremely fragile, suitable for swimming only in a fenced “paddling pool”, or an almost uncontrollable raft, highly susceptible to drift by current or wind.

As for inflatable boats, the enthusiasm for them is explained, in addition to the possibility of carrying on oneself, by the fact that in order to register a purchased “rubber” boat on a navigable body of water, it is enough to present a manufacturer’s certificate, and even then the water inspection turns a blind eye to it. However, this in no way applies to homemade inflatable boats.

At the same time, it is enough to look at the patterns of a simple inflatable boat (see Fig.) to be convinced: properly gluing its seams in artisanal conditions is much more difficult than building a more spacious and reliable boat with a rigid hull, and quality materials for a soft plastic boat will cost much more than the best plywood and epoxy glue.

But the most important thing: without special equipment, it is generally impossible to reliably (without the possibility of inspection) glue safety bulkheads into the cylinder. A homemade “elastic band” will be single-cylinder: suddenly there is a hole, and you are not wearing a life jacket, it is far from the shore, or the pond is very overgrown - you will only have to mentally take stock of your life. For its end is near.

Note: If you absolutely want to glue your boat, not build it, then it’s better to make it from... scraps of water pipes. Such a boat cannot be blown away and hidden in a backpack, but it will be unsinkable. How to make a boat from PVC pipes, see the video below.

Video: example of a homemade boat made from PVC pipes

Which one should I do?

There are also many designs of plywood and plank boats that do not require production conditions for construction; People have been swimming since time immemorial. Let's try to decide how a novice shipbuilder/navigator can navigate this diversity. For example, boats such as a canoe (item 1 in the figure), kayak, canoes or domestic boats are very fast, very seaworthy and at the same time are not afraid of overgrown shallow waters. However, managing them requires not just experience, but great art. In terms of the number of drownings among beginners, canoe-type boats are firmly in the top ranking among small boats. In addition, such boats with a rigid skin are technologically complex, because their contours are double curvature.

The Russian fofan boat (pos. 2) is no less legendary in its reliability than the American dory (see below), but it is very stable, roomy, and can be driven by a green newbie. The twisted contours in the bow make the fofan well able to ride waves when fully loaded, and together with the “pot-bellied” hull, gentle contours in the stern and a recessed transom, it is capable of traveling quite quickly, up to 20 km/h or more, under a fairly powerful engine in transitional (semi-planing) conditions. ) mode. But, as we see, the contours of the fofan are also doubly curved, and it is heavy: to move the fofan, you need at least 2-3 strong men.

The Russian tuzik pleasure-fishing boat (item 3; Russian because there is also an American dinghi tuzik boat, see below) is light, but again with double-curvature contours. The same applies to the sea sailing boat, pos. 5, although under sail she stays steadily on course on a 4-point wave, and it is possible to pull her ashore alone.

Bend once!

So, we have decided on one more requirement for a homemade plywood boat: its contours must be single curvature, i.e. The surfaces forming the body must be curved planes. For small, quiet inland waters, the optimal choice would be a skiff-type punt boat, pos. 5. Scythians in such conditions have proven themselves to be the most reliable ships. In addition, skiff boats are cheap, easy to build, and lightweight: a 4-meter skiff with a galvanized bottom can be lifted and loaded by one person. An additional advantage for these sailing conditions is that the skiffs handle well in currents and in overgrown reservoirs. There is simply nothing for water or algae to grab onto.

Note: Contrary to popular belief, a skiff boat can sail perfectly, see below. But - only on calm water! In rough weather, the skiff, like any shallow-draft punt, becomes dangerous - the wave hits the bottom, knocking the ship off course and trying to capsize.

In slightly more difficult sailing conditions, with waves up to 2-3 points, a dinghy boat will be optimal. In appearance, dinghies can be easily recognized by the bow transom-forestpigel and the keeled (as they say, having a transverse V) bottom, pos. 6. The latter allows the dinghi to ascend the wave more easily, and the forespire makes the ratio of capacity to overall dimensions and dead weight of the dinghi almost a record. Thanks to this, the dinghi is the most popular weekend boat among residents of places remote from the water: a 2-3-seater dinghi on the top trunk fits into the dimensions of a passenger car, and can weigh less than 50 kg. Technologically, a dinghy is even simpler than a skiff - it can be assembled by sewing plywood (see below) simply on the floor of an apartment.

The sailing dinghy (item 7) is quite safe, but very nimble, and is therefore an excellent vessel for initial sailing training. Once you have learned how to control one, you can safely move on to the tiller/wheel and sheets of a large yacht. In the USSR, “Goldfish” dinghies were widely used to train teenage cadets in yacht clubs.

Note: in coastal areas you can often find seaworthy, sharp-nosed dingas. Outwardly, they look like a fofan compressed along its length (pos. 8), but in fact the hydrodynamics and mechanics of their hull are almost the same as those of a dinghy with a forespigel.

Finally, if you live by the sea or a large inland lake, know big water and want to finally build a boat for it with your own hands, then the choice should be a dory. Dory boats are truly ocean-going. Newfoundland fishermen have caught and continue to catch fish with them 280 and even 400 km from the coast. The seaworthiness and reliability of the dory are phenomenal: there are many cases where large, reliable ships were wrecked in a severe storm, and the dory then returned home safely in the same waters.

Dory boats are known in 2 modifications: purely rowing and sailing (pos. 9). To drive a bank dory, you need to be a thoroughly salted sailor since childhood, because... their static stability is low. A sailing dory is not so capricious; a beginner who knows the basics of how a vessel moves under sail can learn to sail it. In addition, it is possible to install a motor in a well on a sailing dory. Equipping a boat with a motor well is, of course, more difficult than strengthening the transom for the motor (see below), but the motor and propeller will be better protected from damage, and repairing the motor on the water will be possible without fear of drowning a part or tool.

Basic truths

To make a boat correctly, you need to choose a technically competent design suitable for the given sailing conditions and available resources. To choose a project, you need to know at least the very basics of ship theory, small shipbuilding, navigation and maritime practice on small ships. So let's start with theory.

Sales rate

The performance of a displacement vessel is determined by the Froude number Fr. Physically, it means that with an increase in Fr, the length of the bow wave of the ship increases rapidly, see figure:

In this case, most of the engine power or sail thrust is spent on maintaining it. The engine goes into “fuel guzzling” mode, at the same time quickly burning out its resource, and the sail, as a rule, is not capable of pulling the ship to Fr>0.3. Hence the important conclusion: do not try to increase the speed of the boat by installing an overly powerful motor on it. You will only make sailing more dangerous and waste your money on fuel. If the boat design does not indicate the recommended motor power, it can be determined from the table. on the trail. rice.

Moving at a value of Fr that is too high for a given hull is also dangerous: the boat may seem to be hanging on the crests of neighboring waves, or it will tend to slide back from the bow wave and bury its stern in the water. If, frightened by a wave rising in front of the bow, you sharply release the gas, the boat will be flooded from the stern by the next wave coming in: once formed, the waves move according to their own laws.

Just by looking at the theoretical drawing you can estimate at what Froude numbers a given vessel is capable of sailing. For example, a boat at pos. 5 – semi-planing. Next you need to check the coincidence of the drawing lines:

• The distances from the DP to the overhead line waterlines on the half-latitude projection must coincide with the distances from the DP to the frame lines on the hull projection, respectively. levels from OP. Taking into account the scale, because the body projection required for constructing patterns and frame templates is most often given on an enlarged scale (see item 4).
• The distances from the OP to the buttocks must be equal to the distances from the OP to the lines of the frames and waterlines on the same cutting plane parallel to the DP, also taking into account the scale.

Next, you should evaluate the ship's performance: using the trapezoidal method, determine the cross-sectional areas of the underwater part along the frames and segments, respectively. lengths are laid out along the vertical axis, see fig. The distance between the segments (on the same scale) is one spacing, i.e. distance between sections along frames. The envelope of segments, the so-called. marching along the frames, should form a semi-contour of some streamlined body.

The formation of a formation along frames is similar to the application of the area rule in aviation. But, firstly, in incompressible water its effect affects any speeds, and not transonic ones. Secondly, the ship’s hull is only partially immersed in water and therefore excites gravitational waves rather than pressure waves in motion. Therefore, the formation along the frames should look like half of not a drop, but an ogive-shaped body, like an artillery shell. The flatter the line along the frames, the more efficient the ship will be, and a wide line indicates its good handling. The “tail” at the back indicates the ability to walk at significant Froude numbers, and the “beak” at the front indicates good ability to ride waves, but at the same time a tendency to yaw.

Note: In addition to the frames, the true contour of the inclined transom is built according to the theoretical drawing, see figure:

Materials

Wood and plywood

Basic construction materials for a boat require some pre-processing. In order for a wooden boat to last as long as possible, wood materials must first be generously saturated with a water-soluble antiseptic (biocide) for wood. It won't be oily, it won't be exposed to air!

Plywood, incl. waterproof, impregnated in several stages with intermediate drying to avoid delamination. In the latter, only the glue is waterproof, and the wood veneer is as is. Next, in order to fix the biocide and reduce the swelling of the wood, the material is impregnated in the same way 2-3 times with a water-polymer emulsion. Unless otherwise specified in the project, the thickness of plywood for the sides of a boat up to 4 m long should be taken from 4 mm, for the bottom from 6 mm and for the transom from 12 mm; boards, depending on the type and quality of the wood, are three to four times more. The method of correct gluing of wooden parts and the permissible bending radii of the boards are given in Fig. higher. They are different from construction ones!

Sheets of plywood larger than 1550 mm are difficult to find, so they are glued together in advance into strips of the required length using a miter joint, see fig. It is impossible to learn how to accurately and accurately cut plywood from descriptions, so practice on scraps. We can only advise you to rough out the mustache with a plane, and finish it with a grinder or a smooth block wrapped in sandpaper. Glue the sheets with epoxy glue. The quality of the fastening is checked next. way:

• Cut a strip approx. wide. 10 cm. This is almost always possible, because Curvilinear details will be cut out.
• The strip is brought into a ring and pulled together until the plywood bursts.
• If the joint is of high quality, the plywood should crack anywhere except it.

Stacked boat hulls are assembled using red copper nails (you need to drill holes for them), galvanized or conical screws. Red copper nails are bitten and riveted into washers; galvanized ones are bent. Holes are drilled for the screws; their dimensions, methods of working with nails and fastening tables, see Fig.

Note: Lately, quite a lot of amateurs have been assembling boats using confirmed furniture screws, using the same technological techniques as when assembling cabinet furniture - cabinets, kitchen corners, etc. For now, these boats are floating, but not for long enough to judge their long-term reliability.

Fiberglass

Fiberglass glued with epoxy glue is widely used in small shipbuilding. But there are a lot of complaints about it: they say, I didn’t swim until the fall - it started leaking. The reason is the wax that is used to coat the fiberglass before it is spun and woven. Paraffin from fiberglass is removed by boiling in water. You can’t burn it, the fabric will become fragile! Boil the fiberglass in a clean container for at least half an hour, then allow the container and contents to cool completely, remove the paraffin crust from the surface of the water, and only then remove the fiberglass.

Techniques for working with fiberglass on fiberglass and wood are shown in Fig. Gluing set parts from extruded polystyrene foam EPS is an effective way to increase the rigidity of a wooden hull, slightly increasing its weight, and assembling a plywood boat by sewing with epoxy glue is technologically simple and produces a completely reliable vessel. The staples are made of copper wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm; the pitch of pairs of holes for them is 40-60 mm. Looking ahead, the technology for sewing boats from plywood on epoxy is as follows:

1. Cut out parts without allowance;
2. The edges are planed to form a wedge-shaped profile joint with a width of 1.5-2 mm at the base;
3. If the bottom is keeled, staple its parts together, place the blank on keel blocks (see below) and sew on the sides. The flat bottom is immediately placed on the trestles, the sides are sewn on;
4. Align the body along the contours (also see below) and fill the seams with glue from the inside;
5. After the glue has hardened, the seams are also sealed from the inside with 3 layers of fiberglass (see figure above). There is no need to remove the staples: firstly, the seam with them will be stronger, and secondly, the putty holes from the staples are a potential source of water leakage;
6. When the last sizing has hardened, the transoms (transom) are glued in the same way;
7. Remove the body from the keel blocks (traces), bite the brackets flush from the outside and cover the seams on the outside with 3 layers of fiberglass;
8. They glue into the hull the frames, centerboard well, cans (seats), breshtuk (see below), gunwale, fender beam, etc., as required by the project;
9. They carry out additional equipment and finishing.

How to make a boat?

Sew

In projects of cartop dinghy and skiff boats, patterns of their parts are often given. In this case, the boat is assembled by sewing (stitching) on ​​keel blocks or trestles, see fig. The dry-sewn body is aligned along the contours using templates and temporary mounting spacers. The seams of the sheets, being the most durable, are placed closer to the nose, as it is the most loaded and susceptible to damage.

We are building

The construction of a sharp-chine boat of greater than sewn capacity with single-curvature contours begins with the manufacture of the stem (see below) and the assembly of frame frames. The frames of sewn boats are often simply cut out of plywood (there are only 2-3 of them), but in this case it is uneconomical - too much of the rather expensive material will go to waste. The frames are assembled on the plaza, i.e. on a flat plane onto which the projections of the theoretical drawing on a scale of 1:1 are transferred. If the contours of the boat are simple and there is little space, only the hull projection can be transferred to the plaza. Methods for assembling frame frames, as strength, complexity and weight increase, are given in Fig. The grooves for the keel and stringers are selected in advance.

Next, the frame frames are placed on the frame (item a in the next figure), aligned vertically, along the contours, and the keel beam, stem (see below), fender beam and stringers are attached. After this, the body set is closed with a flat strip (pos. b). The purpose of the malkovka is, firstly, to create cuts in the keel beam, along which it will be planed to a given deadrise; secondly, check whether a section of double curvature has been tucked in somewhere, etc. trim the bottom edges of the floortimbers. Then the skin is applied, starting from the keel (below in the figure). After this, the body is removed from the frame, completed and equipped.

Note: Some amateurs, after the fry, are hacking against the rules of shipbuilding, removing the cutting of the skin from the milled set onto sheets of packaging cardboard. Then there is no need to suffer with geometry according to a theoretical drawing, and the boats float.

Nose

Forteven is the most loaded and important part of the hull set. One of the immutable rules of navigation safety says: if danger cannot be avoided, it must be taken on board. Therefore, the manufacture of a boat stem should be taken with full responsibility.

The designs of boat stems are shown in Fig. Waterstop plugs made of solid, non-rotting wood prevent water from seeping into the housing. In terms of reliability, all these designs are approximately the same. A stem with a false bow is used in cartop boats with a narrow stem.

In rough seas and when hitting obstacles, the stem experiences large dynamic loads that tend to push the hull apart, so it is reinforced with a bridge insert. Amateur shipbuilders often neglect it or do not even know what it is; This is one of the significant reasons that homemade boats last much less than the terms stated in the projects.

Stern

Another rather important part of the set, especially for a boat designed for a motor, is the transom. Transom design for motors up to 10-12 hp. is given in Fig. on right. The total thickness of the transom, with reinforcement, is from 40 mm. Perhaps more: the mounting clamps on some outboard motors do not converge by less than 50-60 mm.

Unsinkability

A radical way to avoid the serious consequences of accidents on the water is an unsinkable boat. It is quite easy to make an undecked vessel with a displacement of up to 0.5 tons unsinkable: foam blocks are glued under the cans and along the sides from the inside; then, in the bow and stern, you can fence off the corresponding. forepeak and afterpeak and fill them with foam. Volume of unsinkable blocks in cubic meters. m is calculated by the formula V=1.2W(1+?), where W is the displacement in tons, 1 is the density of fresh water, ? – mass density of foam plastic. For example, if?=0.08 tf/cubic. m, then for a boat with a displacement of 0.25 tons you will need 0.324 cubic meters. m or 324 cu.m. dm foam plastic. It seems like a lot, but in a dinghy boat 3 m long, such a quantity can be accommodated without any noticeable deterioration in habitability.

Supply

The minimum set of mandatory equipment for a pleasure and fishing boat consists of oars, life jackets according to human capacity, an anchor on a chain or cable, a mooring line and, in case of sailing in the dark, a white bow or masthead (on the mast) all-round visibility navigation light. The latter is often neglected, which is unforgivable in our time: now on sale there are autonomous LED lamps the size of a child’s fist with a built-in solar panel and battery. The anchor from this set deserves special attention.

Anchor

Joseph Conrad called anchors “honest pieces of iron,” and no wonder: an anchor may be the last chance to save the ship and the people on it. Small vessels are most often equipped with grapple anchors, but this is far from the optimal option. First, cats often get stuck on rocks. There are grapple anchors on sale with legs that fold back during a sharp jerk, but they are unreliable: the vessel can spontaneously unmoor just when it needs to be firmly held on. Secondly, the cat, like the classic Admiralty anchor, becomes dangerous in shallow water: the ship can sit with its bottom on the arm of the anchor sticking up.

For small vessels, Hall and Matrosov anchors and lightweight Trident anchors with increased holding power are also produced. They are quite expensive, but you can’t make them yourself; you need cast parts. You can make a Kurbatov welded anchor yourself (see figure), it is suitable for boats up to 5 m long. If it is impossible or undesirable to weight the anchor with a chain, on rocky soils a weight is lowered to it along a cable on a pin (thin cable or thick fishing line). pig of 2-3 kg.

What if Kurbatov's anchor gets stuck in the rocks; the pig needs to be lifted before it can be freed. The anchor, which is completely stuck, is released with a strong sharp tug on the cable. In this case, parts 4 and 8 may be damaged, but in most cases they can be corrected right there with the help of a hammer and pliers.

About securing the anchor

During manufacturing, you need to insert an eye into the butt of the anchor - a steel ring that dangles freely in it. The eye is also supplied with the cud-tack - the attachment point for the anchor cable/chain to the hull of the vessel. Eyelets greatly reduce wear on the cable/chain and the likelihood of sudden breakage.

The chewing tack is attached to the outside of the stem. You need to attach the chewing tack lower, above the waterline. In this case, the boat at anchor will be able to play better on the wave, not bury its nose in the water during waves, and the likelihood of the anchor getting stuck is much reduced.

Examples of projects

There are enough good projects of cartop boats, dinghies and skiffs in RuNet and in general on the Internet. Therefore, we will focus on more spacious boat designs.

Scythian

The appearance, data and design of the skiff boat developed by D. A. Kurbatov, suitable for transportation on the top trunk of a passenger car, are given in Fig. Its distinctive feature is extreme cheapness: the main material is boards, and the bottom is small, i.e. monkeys. If you choose the right boards for the bottom (highlighted in red in the next figure), then the plank bottom will be quite reliable. Moreover, these days the seams between the boards can be caulked with construction deformation cord (used to seal cracks in concrete) and silicone sealant. Of course, the bottom of this boat can also be made of plywood, then its weight will be reduced to 70-80 kg.

On the trail. rice. Drawings of the parts of this boat are given and a method of assembling it is shown, which is also very economical: on a simplified slipway using templates. Under the motor, the transom is strengthened as described above.

Next in Fig. the sailing rig of this boat and drawings of the oars for it are shown. The sail is a rack sail (emphasis on the “o”), you can learn how to handle it in half an hour or an hour, without knowing any theory at all. But – don’t set this sail in a fresh and stronger wind! The CPU of a rack sail is significantly higher, it heels the boat more, and it is a punt!

As for the oars, it is better to make them exactly according to the drawing. Scythian boats move very easily without oars, therefore, to save the rower's muscular efforts, the configuration of the oars and the profile of their blades become of great importance.

About the iron day

Skiff boats are sometimes made with a bottom made of galvanized iron. Firstly, such a boat with plywood sides weighs only approx. 50 kg or less, i.e. you can move it any way you want alone. Secondly, a boat with a steel bottom turns out to be much more durable in reservoirs with an acidic water reaction, of which there are more than enough in the Russian Federation: ions of even very weak acids spoil glue and protective coatings. Homemade boats with a steel bottom have one disadvantage: it is useless to submit them for inspection for the purpose of registration, and they will not be examined.

Dory

The same author also developed a design for a dory sailing boat made of plywood, see figure; According to the table of plaza ordinates, the sheathing is cut, but, see above. In shallow sea waters with a short, steep “angry” wave (Azov, the north of the Caspian Sea, the Marquis Puddle in the Baltic), this boat showed itself better than a sea dinghy or an Azov longboat.

Below in Fig. a structural drawing of the boat is given, the method of its construction on a slipway, the design of the stem and the method of inserting the longitudinal parts of the kit are shown. Wood must be of high quality, without knots or defects, because... The wooden parts of the set are prestressed during assembly.

On the trail. Figure shows drawings of the dory's sailing rig. Since a dory can be sailed in quite strong winds, provision is made for taking one reef on the sail. Observe the specified dimensions exactly: dory boats are very critical to the relative position of the CPU and central nervous system!

Finally

After swimming, especially in cool weather, you want, need and benefit from eating and sipping something hot. Not intoxicating, on the water you must follow the dry law. Therefore, in conclusion, we provide drawings of a stove - a boat and yacht stove, which can also be useful at the dacha, picnic and in general on the farm.

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