DIY boat made of plywood for fishing and recreation. Drawings of a homemade plywood boat Homemade plywood boat

Captain Vrungel believed that whatever you name the ship, it will sail. We will not argue with the old, proven sea wolf, but we will still put forward our opinion - the more carefully and carefully you prepare the drawings of a plywood boat with your own hands, so it will serve you for many years and in any weather. It is the drawings of the vessel that will determine all your future decisions.

They are the ones who will introduce you to this world of shipbuilding, where Anglo-Dutch terminology rules. And understanding the terminology of boat design elements, and therefore successfully reading the proposed drawing, is fundamentally important.

According to the old axiom, start from the stove

Drawings of a homemade plywood boat must include strict instructions on how to attach all elements - this is a key issue for the entire design

Indeed, terminology, when throwing yourself into such a bottomless field as boat building, is of great and crucial importance. We bring to your attention its fundamentals regarding the design of boats, which appear everywhere in the drawings.

Terminology

Therefore, understand these terms very carefully; they literally permeate any worthwhile drawing of a boat made of any material.

In the side view we note the following structural elements of the boat, and it is impossible to say which of them is most important, which is less important, all elements are required to be used:

A – frame. You can choose the option of an ordinary punt, without frames, but when it comes to such an aspiration thrown on the Internet as “do-it-yourself plywood boat drawings”, the reliability and strength of the structure comes to the fore, which means frames are required;
Spacing is the distance between two frames. The most important characteristic of the design of any boat;
B - sternpost;
C - stem;
D – beam
E – keelson. A very desirable design element, which, however, is often discarded for boats;
F – fender. You cannot do without this element if you are going to add a superstructure to the boat. For open models, the fender is not used.
I – breshtuk. We strongly advise you not to neglect this element; the strength of the entire structure greatly depends on it.
J – book. The bracket is also extremely important in ensuring the strength of the boat.
K – stringer. It is also an indispensable element if you approach construction with the utmost care.

The top view introduces a few more important terms:

A – beam;
B – half beam. Goes into a full beam if you do not build a superstructure on the boat;
C – karengs;
D – midsection.

The view from the forecastle introduces terms that will be fundamentally important at a more advanced stage of construction, when it becomes necessary to strengthen the hull of the boat and install a sail and keel, also improving sailing performance:

A – tongue and groove belts;
B – keel. By ensuring the keel weight is 50 percent of the weight of the entire boat, you significantly increase its stability. After all, you never know how the rolling will affect you or future passengers, and a solid supply of sucking sweets and even ginger can do little to prolong the pleasure of being on the water, except to quickly get to the shore;
C – steps. Mandatory if you are putting up a mast;
D – tongue and groove;
E – partners. This is the name of the hole in the superstructure for the passage of the mast. Of course, if you don’t have an add-on, then you can forget about partners for now;
F – velhout. A very important sheet pile belt at the level of the waterline, water;
H – shearstrek. The topmost tongue and groove belt.
G – water level;
I – waterweiss. This element is already an element of the add-in.

Plywood

The most common material for making boats today is, of course, carbon fiber. But this material is the domain of industry. When it comes to independent creativity, such “folk” material as plywood comes to the fore..

Plywood, or in other words, wood-laminated board, is a building material created by gluing together specially produced veneer. Usually the number of veneer layers is odd and, in any case, more than 3. To increase the strength of plywood, each subsequent layer of veneer with its wood fibers is perpendicular to the fibers of the previous layer. Frames are the basis of any floating craft. Drawings of plywood boats that claim to be something more than the title of punt must have a separate option - the location of the frames

Characteristics of plywood

When choosing plywood for boat construction, it is very important to choose the right type.

Based on the arrangement of wood fibers on the outer layers, plywood is distinguished:

Longitudinal, when the fibers are directed along the long side, and,
Transverse - along the short one.

To build a boat, it is better to choose a longitudinal one.
Of course, such an isometric drawing is also possible, but this is the simplest option for the “free plywood boat drawings” section - there are no frames, and the work is in many ways similar to assembling a children's construction set, except that the parts are tens of times larger

By purpose, plywood is divided into:

construction,
industrial,
packaging,
furniture, and
structural – this is exactly what we choose for our purposes.

There is a classification of plywood in relation to the effects of moisture, which is fundamentally important for a boat:

FBA is like this, but you shouldn’t choose it, it doesn’t meet the strict requirements for moisture resistance;
FC – this is the designation for plywood that is sufficiently resistant to moisture;
FSF - and so, with increased moisture resistance;
FB – impregnated with bakelite varnish, such plywood is considered the most resistant and can be used even in aggressive environments, which is important in our case, and under water;
BS - this one is simply impregnated with bakelite glue. Consider that if you have such plywood at your disposal, then the success of the whole business is 50% guaranteed. This type of plywood has been specifically used in aircraft and shipbuilding for quite a long time. It happily combines all the qualities necessary for a boat craftsman - excellent flexibility, highest strength, complete waterproofness, and also resistance to rotting and deterioration;
BV - but don’t be fooled by this one, it is in many ways similar to BS, but does not have moisture resistance.

Helpful advice!
When choosing plywood for boat construction, we recommend paying attention to laminated plywood.
At the very least, it will be just great if you use one as tongue and groove belts or on the outside of the case if it is single-layer.
This will greatly improve the driving performance of your creation, because water is a medium in which frictional force plays a significant role.
On the other hand, you should not use laminated plywood inside the boat.
Its slippery surface itself, and even wetted with water, can cause a lot of trouble.

Principal characteristics

When it comes to using plywood to build a boat, it is important to choose plywood based on its quality, determined by the number of knots per square meter of the outer layer.

There are 5 quality levels here:

E – so-called elite quality, when there are no knots at all. It is probably unnecessary to say that it is always necessary to strive to choose just such plywood;
Well, then, a simple classification of quality - I, II, III and IV. In the latter case, the number of knots is not controlled.
I – maximum length of knots and warping does not exceed 20 mm;
II - cracks no more than 200 mm, wood inserts are permissible, and glue leakage is permissible only on an area of 2% of the total sheet area;
III – no more than 10 pieces of knots with a diameter of no more than 6 mm. There is even a limit on the total number of deficiencies - no more than 9;
IV – this is the worst quality with even fallen knots and edge defects of up to 5 mm.

Operating conditions requirements

Most likely, for building a boat you will choose as the most common one. There is also birch plywood, but its use is limited by too high a price.

Another thing is very important here - the quality of processing of the outer surface of the plywood sheet.

Based on this indicator, plywood is distinguished:

NS – unpolished;
Ш1 – polished on one side;
Ш2 - polished on both sides.

Here it is fundamental and mandatory to use the sanded side of the plywood on the outside of the body. It is advisable, for safety reasons, not to use the polished side on the inside.

Dimensions

A natural characteristic of any sheet of plywood is its size.

The industry, according to standards, produces sheets of the following four sizes:

1525 x 1525 mm;
1220 x 2440 mm;
1500 x 3000 mm;
1525 x 3050 mm.

Your choice will largely depend on the size of the boat.

Helpful advice!
All the given characteristics of plywood must be indicated in the specification of the boat drawings.
Under no circumstances agree to purchase the proposed boat drawings if they are not accompanied by a detailed explanatory note describing all the nuances of manufacturing, and most importantly, the choice of type of plywood.
The drawings must indicate the degree of processing of the external sides of the housing.
In this regard, the grinding machine will be one of the most in demand in your work.

conclusions

Building a boat is a fascinating creative process for people who still like to live, who are not afraid to experiment and have a design streak. (see also) But, on the other hand, you shouldn’t reinvent the wheel; be sure to familiarize yourself with all the photo materials, study the terminology and various design solutions.

Prepare yourself for possible reworking of unsuccessful decisions. Know how to “talk to yourself” and communicate with experienced masters. Only in this case is the success of the entire enterprise called “building a plywood boat with your own hands” possible.

In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

Fishing enthusiasts or simply people living near some body of water sooner or later face the question of purchasing a boat. It can provide not only pleasant boat trips under the gentle sun, but also accessibility to the most catchable places where trophy fish are found. Buying a boat ready for launch is very expensive for many people, but a boat made of plywood, built with your own hands, will cost several times less. And this process itself, interesting and creative, will bring a lot of pleasure.

Let's dispel doubts

After hearing the phrase - a boat made of plywood - some pessimists will twist their finger at their temples and say that this is absolutely impossible. Like, making a real watercraft from thin and straight plywood, and one that can support more than one person, is a utopia. In fact, this is quite possible. Moreover, you can build not just a small punt, but even a real sailing yacht, and if a small boat motor is installed on the reinforced transom, and a cockpit is made on the bow, you will get something like a boat. So what, the boat will work out. And these are not fishing tales.

Plywood comes in different thicknesses and strengths. It is even easier to cut parts to size and in different configurations from it than from boards. In addition, it bends well enough to give the sides the desired roundness. Modern means for ensuring the moisture resistance of a plywood boat are also sufficient. Therefore, for someone who decides to make a boat on their own, only three things are needed: desire, a working head and hands that are not afraid of work. Everything else can be easily found.

Well, the advantages of a plywood boat are simply undeniable:

Light weight. The simplest punt weighs only 15-20 kg.
A well-made boat can last a very long time.
There are boat designs that can easily support up to 5 people.
Cheapness.

Preparations for work

Having set out to build a plywood boat yourself, the first thing you need to do is find an appropriate room in which all the work will be carried out. It should be spacious, dry, with good lighting. Sudden temperature changes and high humidity are strictly excluded. The entire production will take enough time, which is stupid to waste in the summer, when you can do other things. Therefore, work is usually carried out either in winter or in spring, so the atmosphere in the “production workshop” plays a very important role. Untreated plywood does not tolerate moisture well, but glue and impregnating liquids are applied better and with better quality in warmth. And it’s also better to paint the finished product in a warm place.

The second necessary action is drawing. There should be no problem with this - you can find it on the Internet in just a few minutes. But even purchasing material without it is not worth it.

There is no point in starting work without a quality drawing.

There are different types of homemade plywood boats, and you need to choose a project that you can carry out yourself. If this is your first experience in shipbuilding, then it is best to choose the project of the most ordinary punt. Despite the simplicity of the design, the possibilities it provides are almost unlimited. You can hang a motor on it, and even put a mast. And under the oars she walks just fine.

Having calculated from the drawing what and how much material is needed, you can begin purchasing it.

Material

It is not worth reminding that the material from which the plywood boat will be built must be of high quality. The plywood itself is without knots, the glue is only from a trusted manufacturer, and the impregnating liquids too.

The entire list looks like this:

Sheet plywood 1.5-1.5 m, 5 mm thick, grade BS, BK or FSF.
Several boards, preferably oak.
Fiberglass.
Putty.
Waterproof glue.
Waterproof impregnation for wood or drying oil.
Waterproof enamel or oil paint.
Self-tapping screws.
Nails.
Copper wire.

When choosing plywood, you need to carefully inspect the edges for chips and cracks at the ends. You shouldn’t hope that you can saw off a couple of centimeters. Everything else can be easily and at a very reasonable price purchased at any hardware or hardware store.

Tool

A good owner, who is accustomed to doing some repair work in the house on his own, already has a set of tools. Even with interest. Directly building a boat will require the following arsenal:

Jigsaw.
Electric planer.
Screwdriver.
A circular saw.
Sander.
Plane.
Hacksaw.
Hammer.
Pliers.
Screwdrivers.
Metal ruler.
Chisel.
Spatulas.
Brushes.
Clamps.
Drawing set.
Graph paper.
Cardboard.

Having prepared everything according to these two lists, you can proceed directly to work.

Power tools will make the job much easier

Let's start drawing

Marking the contours of the boat directly on a plywood sheet would be rather reckless. A small mistake and the vessel will yaw to the side or tilt to one side. Therefore, it is better to first draw a diagram or sketch on graph paper in full size. Moreover, the word diagram is not very appropriate here, because it is necessary to strictly maintain the dimensions.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

A center line is drawn dividing the bottom of the boat lengthwise.
At one end, a transom line is drawn perpendicularly to size.
The installation points of the frames are marked on the center line itself.
At these points, perpendiculars are drawn to suit the size of the frames.
Using patterns, the bottom itself is drawn.
The resulting diagram is folded in half along the center line to check symmetry.

Patterns for the sides, frames and transom are made in the same way, taking into account their sizes and configurations. But the drawing doesn't end there. Now, after the symmetry of the bottom and the sameness of the sides have been carefully checked, the stage of transferring the drawing onto a cardboard template begins. The graph paper is too thin, but it will be much easier to transfer the drawing onto plywood from a cardboard template without errors.

First gluing

If you managed to get sheet plywood that matches the length of the future boat, that’s good. But if you have ordinary sheets of 1.5-1.5 meters, you will have to glue them together. The best way is gluing.

Mustache gluing is the strongest connection between plywood sheets

A distance equal to 10-12 sheet thicknesses is retreated from the edge of the sheet, and ground off at an angle with a plane. After this, you need to go through the sander and do the same operations with the second sheet. Cleaned and degreased surfaces are smeared with glue, carefully connected and secured with clamps. Since clamps can only be placed at the edges, a weight must be placed in the center. After the glue has dried, the clamps can be removed, but let the product sit for at least another day.

Cutting out parts

After the glue has dried and all burrs and smudges at the gluing site have been removed, you can transfer the dimensions of the bottom and sides using cardboard templates. During this simple process, you should ensure that there are no allowances even of a couple of millimeters. Especially on different sides.

Then a jigsaw with a small-toothed file tucked into it is used. Large ones can clutter the cutting edge. But even after a small one, it’s better to carefully go through it with medium-sized sandpaper. You need to cut carefully, without rushing. One wrong movement, the slightest deviation from the drawn line - and in the best case you will have to go back a few centimeters, in the worst case you will have to start this detail from the very beginning. That is, from drawing a new one.

You can draw and cut frames right away in full size. But you'll have to think about the transom. If a motor boat is planned, then it needs to be reinforced. There are two options. One is to cut several identical parts from plywood and glue them together. Or make a transom from a solid board with a thickness of at least 25 mm.

Let's start collecting

The boat is assembled using the “sew and glue” principle. It’s better to start with the transom - then it will be easier to install the sides. Holes of such a diameter are drilled in the rear of the bottom and in the lower part of the transom that the copper wire can pass through. The holes must be strictly opposite each other. Using pieces of wire, the transom is attached to the bottom. After making sure that the edges match, you need to tighten the twists of the wire with pliers.

Instead of copper wire, you can take a wire of suitable diameter

The sides are attached in a similar way, starting from the stern and ending with the last twist at the bow of the boat. At this point, the result is a collapsible model, which can still be corrected. Trim excess, smooth out uneven areas. After the next operation, you can forget about dismountable tactics.

Second gluing

Or rather, gluing the seams between the bottom, sides and transom in order not only to secure the parts, but also to ensure moisture resistance. A strip of fiberglass is carefully laid on the seam and carefully coated with moisture-resistant glue. In this case, one layer is not enough. You will need at least three. And if the first layer of fiberglass is approximately 100 mm, that is, 50 on each side, then the second and third layers should be wider. 125-135 mm. it will be just right, only each subsequent layer needs to be shifted a little - one towards the bottom, the other, on the contrary, towards the side. This is done so that the fiberglass comes into contact and sticks directly to the plywood. After the glue dries properly, this folding gasket will turn into almost real plastic, and this will guarantee that the boat is moisture resistant.

Installation of frames

The frames are installed strictly in place on the adhesive base and screwed with self-tapping screws. After the glue has dried, the screws are unscrewed, and the holes left by them are filled with the same glue. If nails are used instead of self-tapping screws, then after pulling them out, you need to hammer wooden nails into the holes and coat them with glue.

Final imparting moisture resistance

This completes the construction of the boat. What remains is the interior and exterior finishing, which serves not only for aesthetics, but also to ensure that the boat does not leak. Ordinary wooden boats will be tarred, but what to impregnate a plywood boat with - there is a very specific answer to this question. On the outside, all seams and the entire body are treated with fiberglass and glue, in the same way as was done when gluing the parts. Before this operation, the protruding wire should be removed or cut off. The inside of the plywood boat is impregnated with hot drying oil.

When covering a boat with fiberglass, you must carefully ensure that there are no bubbles.

Painting

At this point, the construction of the plywood boat can be considered complete. It will take some time to dry, and by and large you can already swim on it. On oars, with the help of an engine, if you tried to make the transom for a motor, or even under a sail, if this is provided for by the design. It is already completely waterproof, but absolutely not aesthetically pleasing. Painting is the very last stage, and then the production of the boat will be completed completely.

There are two options here. Or oil paint - the color is chosen according to taste - for fishing, something merging with nature, for walking, it can be brighter. Or waterproof enamel, selected according to the same principle. You'll have to wait a little longer until the paint or enamel dries - and you can safely set sail.

Main

Before you start building a plywood boat yourself, you need to understand that such homemade products do not tolerate careless approach to the matter. This can affect not only the appearance of the product, but also your safety and reliability. The first thing you need to pay special attention to is the room in which the work will be carried out. If it was decided to build a boat in winter or early spring, then it is necessary to exclude drafts and high humidity.

The second thing you need to pay special attention to is the material and tools. Plywood must be selected without knots, glue, paint and drying oil only from a trusted manufacturer. The instrument must be in perfect order. The jigsaw is equipped with a file with small teeth.

If you are planning a motor boat, special attention should be paid to the transom. To make it, it is better to take a solid oak board. Plywood glued together in several layers will also work, but the board will be more reliable.

You should also strictly monitor the symmetry of the bottom and the uniformity of the sides. Incorrect bending of one side on a boat or on a dinghy, depending on what is being built, will lead to the fact that it will scour the water or pull to one side.

And lastly: there is no need to rush under any circumstances. If the instructions for the glue indicate that it should dry for three days, then further work should be started only on the fourth. The same principles apply with paint and drying oil.

Building a plywood boat yourself is not an easy task. But there’s nothing particularly complicated about it. You just need to spend some time and apply maximum knowledge and skills, which can be easily gleaned both on the Internet and from more knowledgeable people. But after completing this interesting and creative work, you can safely go to the reservoir on a unique watercraft built with your own hands.

Every professional fisherman or hunter simply must have a boat in their arsenal. At the moment, the market is overflowing with an assortment of boats of various models and modifications for different tastes and incomes.

This article will provide a detailed description of how to create your own boat with your own hands.

Self-assembly of a boat from plywood

Many people wonder whether it is possible to make a high-quality swimming device on their own, save on it and enjoy the manufacturing process.

Boats made at home have a number of undeniable advantages over their factory “brothers”:

Product weight. When using plywood, weight is significantly reduced compared to similar wooden or metal models.
Using solid sheets will allow you to create ideal shapes, which will provide excellent stability and ensure ease of launching.
Minimum final cost. You will only have to spend money on consumables, such as plywood, boards, glue, and varnish. It is worth noting that a lot can be found in the garage of a thrifty owner.

People with carpentry skills will spend one and a half weeks on this work, subject to working in their free time or two full days.

Dimensions and drawings

Let's take a closer look at the technical capabilities of the future boat.

Relatively flat and narrowed bottom with a slight rise in the bow and stern. The height of the bow of the side is 540 millimeters, which in turn is greater than that of many motor boats of this class.

To ensure that the high nose does not interfere with visibility, a cut is made along the length of the nose by 100 millimeters. The bow is designed in such a way as to facilitate the embarkation or disembarkation of passengers, as well as loading.

Special cargo compartments are provided under the bow and stern. The design provides for the possibility of using oars and low-power motors up to 8 horsepower.

This model can be safely called multifunctional, as it is perfect for hunting, fishing and just household needs.

It is possible to install a canopy, in case of bad weather conditions, on a special aluminum structure for which there are nests on the side of the boat.

Maximum length in meters 2.3. Width in meters 1.34

Side height:

The nose is 54 centimeters.
The back is 40 centimeters.
Stern height 45 centimeters.
The body weight is twenty kilograms.
Load capacity 180 kilograms.

Possibility of installing an outboard motor from two to eight horsepower.

It is possible to use one pair of oars.

Figure No. 1:

A) View of the bottom.
B) Top view.
B) Transom (blanks)

Figure No. 2. External cladding (sheet preparation):

A) Board.
B) Cheekbone.
B) Bottom.

Materials for construction

To build a homemade boat, you will need some experience with carpentry tools.

Below is a list of tools you will need:

Screwdriver
Manual milling machine.
Hand sander.
Clamps.
Electric jigsaw.

List of materials for assembly:

Waterproof plywood with a thickness of at least 4 millimeters and dimensions of 2.5 by 1.25 meters and one and a half sheets of 6 millimeters.
Planed boards with a thickness of 25 millimeters.
Wooden slats.
Brass nails.
Self-tapping screws for wood.
Epoxy resin.
The varnish is waterproof.
Fiberglass.
Beam 50 by 3400
Beam 40 by 20 by 4000

Assembly - detailed instructions, step by step

Making a frame for the sides

The frame is assembled on a workbench and finished on the ground. Place the keel on the workbench, to one side of which the sternpost with a pre-attached transom is attached, and to the other side the stem.

The keel part with attached frames and stems is connected with nails.

You should carefully check for any distortions and, if there are any, make adjustments.

Adjustments can be made by stretching the string between the stem and the transom. After making sure that the axes coincide, you can finally fix it.

A thin cloth or paper impregnated with thick paint or resin is laid between all connections.

After the stems have been secured, you can begin installing the frames.

A cutout for the keel should be made on the frames at right angles. For a tight and reliable fastening of the frame, the cut under the keel should be made 0.5 millimeters narrower than the frame.

The fit should be checked with a stretched rope, which should coincide with the beams. By installing the frames at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the keel, you can finally secure it. After all the operations performed, you should set the deflection angle.

For this purpose, you can use a round or rectangular beam, which is temporarily fixed to the ends of the keel from the inside, and an 11-centimeter beam is inserted between the keel and the beam.

To eliminate lateral distortions, the stems and transom, as well as the beams, are fastened with some kind of beam.

Frame covering

After this, he will draw in the same dimensions the formats of the plywood sheets prepared for cladding and try on templates on these sheets to minimize the amount of waste.

The contours of parts of natural size when marking on plywood can be obtained by connecting the points found when setting the given dimensions from the axes of the parts using a long ruler or pattern.

All parts are cut out with a jigsaw with fine teeth, taking into account a margin of 2 - 3 millimeters. For subsequent joining of sheets, you will need to add 70 millimeters.

Before gluing, you should align the axes of the parts to be glued using a thread driven between the boards on which the workpiece will be attached.

After the glue has hardened, identical parts of the board should be knocked together with small nails and adjusted together with a plane.

Along both edges of the cheekbones, at a distance of 12 millimeters, holes with a diameter of 2 millimeters are drilled in increments of 50 millimeters for the wire fasteners that will be used to connect later.

Fastening the casing should begin from the bow of the boat, fastening it with copper wire through holes made along the bottom and side. Twist the wire from the outside two or three turns with a slight slack.

Then we sheathe the transom and bottom of the boat

After the sides are assembled, templates A and B are installed and temporarily secured in the positions shown on the layout of the skin drawing.

Having assembled the bottom according to the same principle that was used when assembling the sides, you should install the boat transom and secure it with 3x18 screws at a distance of 50 millimeters using glue.

There is a possibility that the sides will protrude aft beyond the transom; in this case, the edges should be trimmed with a plane.

After all the above operations have been completed, you should finally tighten all the paper clips with pliers and crimp everything from the inside.

Fiberglass

All cracks and joints of the resulting boat should be glued with fiberglass cut into strips.

The first layer must be at least 25 millimeters wide, and the next two layers at least 80 millimeters, however, it is worth considering that the 2nd and 3rd layers should be offset in different directions from 10 to 15 millimeters.

After the fiberglass has completely hardened, cut off the protruding ends of the wire fasteners and glue them with fiberglass on the outside.

The bottom should be reinforced with strips to increase its rigidity and increase its service life. This is done this way:

The prepared strips are drilled for screws in increments of 20 - 25 centimeters. After this, the blanks are laid out in place and attached to screws, marked with a pencil and removed.

The marked areas are treated with glue and the workpieces are screwed back.

After the glue has dried, the screws can be unscrewed and the holes filled with specially prepared nails cut from wood.

After removing the auxiliary devices, all holes in the boat skin must be filled with sawdust or wood flour mixed with epoxy resin.

The inside of the body is treated with hot drying oil. To paint the bottom and cans of the boat, you can use regular oil-based paint.

Glue selection

The following adhesive materials are used in the construction of boats:

Epoxy resins.
Vinyl ester resins.
Polyester resins.

Let's take a closer look at the above listed resins:

Epoxy resin can safely be called a universal resin used in the production of swimming equipment, and has found indispensable application in composite structures and ship repairs. These resins provide the highest quality adhesive joint in terms of performance.
Vinyl ester resin is essentially a hybrid compound. Increased strength is provided by epoxy molecules. Moderate shrinkage during hardening, and high strength prevents the formation of cracks during hardening. It is also worth noting the increased toxicity of this type of resin and the rather high cost compared to other types.
Polyester resins can easily be called the cheapest type of resin, used in the construction of ships using plastic.
The main advantage, in comparison with other types of resins, is the relative cheapness of this product. The only disadvantages include the fact that it is used only for gluing fiberglass.
These types of resins are used for the construction of boats and yachts and are used to impregnate products in the process of plastic reinforcement.

Regardless of the material, absorbency and adhesion are undoubtedly key to a quality boat.

All photos from the article

The modern market provides a fairly large selection of various tourist and fishing boats. But for our man, a homemade plywood boat is much closer. And the point here is not even about saving money; a boat made by yourself is a source of pride, plus the whole process of self-production is not so much a job as an interesting hobby. In this article we will look at the main stages of assembling such products.

A few words about preparation

Homemade boats made of plywood and fiberglass are considered, although small, but full-fledged watercraft. Therefore, the preparation and assembly process must be approached responsibly. After all, by and large, mistakes here can not only lead to damage to the vessel, but also in some cases endanger the life and health of the owner.

What materials are needed

As the name suggests, the main material here is, of course, plywood.. For the hull of a small boat, sheets of at least the first or second grade, with a thickness of about 5–7 mm, are well suited. For the keel, frames and other auxiliary structural parts, you need to take a thicker sheet, from 12 mm and above;

The grade of material is not the least important.. The choice of plywood is now quite large, but in this case the material will be in long-term direct contact with fresh or even sea water; naturally, plywood must be taken with increased moisture resistance. Ideally, it is better to take the FB brand; it was originally made for ship needs. If the price for “FB” does not suit you, then you can stop at “FSF”;

Advice: the now widespread brand “FC” may be listed in some sources as waterproof.
But in our case it is not suitable; here we need a material with increased moisture resistance, plus one that can withstand prolonged exposure to an aggressive environment.

Clean wood will be used for struts, seats and other elements. As a rule, planed boards with a thickness of 25 mm are taken here. In this case, preference should be given to soft, porous varieties. In professional shipbuilding, larch is used, but for a small boat spruce or pine is sufficient;
For intermediate stitching of sheets, copper wire with a thickness of about 2 mm is well suited.;
Fiberglass and polymer glue are used to create sealed seams. Nowadays it is not difficult to choose the type of adhesive composition; there is quite a large selection on the market, the main thing is that the composition is waterproof.

Tool selection

Homemade plywood boats for fishing do not require an excessively large set of tools.

Here you can get by with a traditional kit, which is available in the workshop of almost any owner:

In addition to pliers, screwdrivers and scissors, you will naturally need a hacksaw;
Cutting plywood with a regular hand saw is quite difficult, so it is better to purchase it with a set of blades. Moreover, you should select a model with as many revolutions as possible, since at low speeds the veneer along the edge will break off;

For such work you definitely need a grinding machine. With ordinary sandpaper, by hand, you will not be able to achieve good quality of processing;
To secure the sheets when gluing, clamps are used; there should be at least 3–4 of them;
A set of brushes is needed for applying glue and paints.

Boat construction

In this case, it is not so important which type of boat you choose. Whether punts, kayaks, sailboats or boats with a motor, the construction instructions for all of these models are approximately the same.

Let's start with drawings

Nowadays it’s not a problem to find drawings of a homemade plywood boat. There is enough information on the Internet or in specialized literature. You only need to decide on the size of the vessel, because the thickness of the sheets depends on this. If you don’t yet have the proper experience in such work, it’s better to stick to simple, non-separable models.

Experienced craftsmen do not recommend designing a boat yourself. But if you still decide to undertake such a feat of labor, you need to start with a careful calculation of the displacement and carrying capacity of the vessel. So that after you launch and try to swim, your product does not immediately go to the bottom along with the owner.

Important: drawings of homemade plywood boats with a motor are not much different from purely oared analogues.
As a rule, these vessels have a slightly modified transom (rear side).
Therefore, regardless of whether you currently have a motor, it is better to immediately give preference to just such boats.

So, when you have found a model that is suitable for you, before moving on to the actual production of parts and assemblies, you need to make paper patterns according to the drawings. And only after checking all the dimensions, transfer the pattern to plywood or wood.

Housing assembly

The maximum length of a standard sheet is about 3 m. Therefore, in most cases, you will need to splice two or more small sheets into a single sheet. This is a simple, but rather painstaking process that requires precision and accuracy. Such a connection among professionals is called miter gluing.

To do this, take 2 sheets and cut them along the edge at an angle; the width of such a bevel should be at least 7 times the thickness of the sheet. The larger the contact area, the stronger the connection. The main mass is removed with a file, then with a machine until it is in perfect condition. Next, the bevels are smeared with glue, connected and pressed with something heavy until completely dry.

Advice: assembling and gluing such structures on the floor is extremely inconvenient, so it is advisable to immediately build trestles from a 50x50 mm wooden block.
Keep in mind that you will have to handle both sides of the boat, so the sawhorses must be adjusted to accommodate this.

A large number of fishermen are convinced that the best fishing accessories can only be made with their own hands. Fishermen learned to make not only gear, but also swimming equipment.

The process of building a watercraft is very exciting and allows you to fully realize your creative potential.

Contents

Manufacturing Features

When building a boat, it is worth considering that the most significant element of the frame part is the base on which the remaining parts (keel) are attached.

The bow area is formed by the stem and is fixed on one side. In the aft part, the fastening is carried out by the sternpost - elements responsible for ensuring the longitudinal rigidity of the structure.

They can be made from wooden materials (solid) or glued together separately and fixed with nails and screws.

The transverse parts of the hull allow you to achieve bends and transverse contours, which adds the necessary rigidity to the craft. In the upper part of the stem and sternpost there are boards connected to the frames. This design forms the sides.

The resulting frame is covered with plywood. A deck (slant) is placed in the inside of the boat. This creates the lower deck.

Boats made of plywood material can be equipped with a motor or oars. The main difference in the design is the aft part. For motorized watercraft, a transom (made of multi-layer plywood) is installed in the stern.

Upon request, the boats can be equipped with a cockpit, deck stringers and side stringers. To ensure good buoyancy, the niches must be filled with foam, which will prevent the vessel from capsizing.

Deciding on the parameters

Experts presented the most comfortable parameters for a watercraft made on the basis of plywood, the thickness of which is within 5 mm:

The length of the hull (from bow to transom) is 4.5 (m);
The width indicator in the widest part of the body (measurements taken from the top) is 1.05 (m);
The boat depth indicator is 0.4 (m).

The most important stage of construction is the construction of the drawing. You can take a ready-made drawing presented on websites on the Internet or make it yourself.

It is very important to study the proposed drawing very carefully if the diagram is taken from the Internet. It is recommended to construct a scale drawing on graph paper. This will allow you to accurately calculate the body elements.

Stages of creating a general plan sketch

The first step is to draw an axial (or diametrical) plane - a line dividing the body part along its length into a pair of equal parts. Considering the symmetry of the boat image, all elements should be adjusted as accurately as possible.
The diametrical type plane is divided into proportional segments. Frames will be located in these areas.
Drawing a vertical projection swimming device.
Let's move on to construction top view.
Drawing frame plans along transverse lines.
Making sure the locations are consistent and the scale of all parts.
Having drawn up a sketch of the frames, we proceed to constructing its drawing, using a scale of 1 to 1. It is advisable to build drawings on a cardboard base, which will allow you to easily transfer it to plywood.
To ensure the necessary smoothness, you should connect the points with a metal ruler (from the keel to the side area).
Having folded the drawing along the diametrical plane, we check the symmetry. It is very important that the sides accurately follow their contours.

Transferring an image from a template to plywood

After checking the symmetry of all elements, we first transfer the image onto a cardboard base. After this, we move on to transferring the templates onto plywood, while accurately observing all the contours. Under no circumstances should you add extra allowances! When transferring the template, the order of the fibers is observed with absolute precision.

Materials and tools

When creating a floating craft, you cannot do without the following materials and tools:

screwdriver;
manual milling machine;
grinding machine (manual type);
clamps;
jigsaw;
waterproof plywood with a thickness of 5 mm (2.5 by 1.25);
waterproof plywood with a thickness of 6 mm (1.5 sheets);
planed boards (at least 25 mm thick);
slats (wood);
nails (brass);
wood screws;
epoxy resin;
varnish (waterproof type);
fiberglass;
timber (50 by 3400);
timber (40 by 20 by 4000).

Manufacturing process

The assembly of the frame part begins on the workbench and ends on the floor (ground).

To avoid mistakes during the assembly process, it is recommended to use the instructions below:

We lay the keel on the workbench.
We attach a sternpost with a transom to one side of the keel. The stem is connected to the second side.
Using nails, the keel part (together with the frames) and the stems are connected. We carefully check everything for any distortions. If there are any, adjustments must be made. To do this, a string is stretched between the transom and the stem.
Making sure that the axes are completely aligned, we make the final fastening.
Thin fabric is saturated with paint(sufficiently thick) and is distributed between existing connections.
After securing the stems, we proceed to installing the frames. To ensure tight fixation, the cut under the keel should be made slightly narrower than the frame (a couple of mm).
The fit is checked using a taut rope. An exact match with the beams must be ensured.
Install frames It is recommended to maintain an angle of 90 degrees.
We finally fasten the frames.
Having completed all the operations, we set the deflection angle. For this purpose, round bars can be used, temporarily attached to the outer parts of the keel (from the inside).
We insert between the timber and the keel wooden beam (11 cm).
Fastening is carried out exclusively with bars, which will prevent the occurrence of transom distortions.
Let's move on to covering the frame. It is advisable to transfer the entire sheet sketch to a reduced size of cardboard and cut it out.
Draw an image for cutting on plywood(observing sheet dimensions).
Let's try out the templates.
Cutting out using a jigsaw(small teeth) all the details. We make a margin of no more than 2 mm. It is very important to add an additional 70 mm for joining sheets.
Using threads driven in (between the boards), we align the axes of the elements. We glue and wait for it to harden.
Using small cloves, we shoot down identical parts of the craft.
We carefully customize between each other with a plane.
We drill holes (2 mm in diameter) at a distance of 12 mm from the edges of the cheekbones, observing a step of 50 mm, intended for (wire) staples. It is the clamps that will become reliable connectors.
The plating is attached starting from the bow of the vessel. It should be fixed with copper wire through the holes that are made along the bottom and side. The wire is twisted from the outside a couple of turns.
Next we make the cladding transom and bottom.
The assembled sides are subject to installation and are temporarily connected.
The bottom is assembled according to the same principle, as the sides.
We install the transom and fasten it using screws(3 by 18) and the adhesive base, while maintaining a distance of about 0.5 cm.
If the side elements protrude beyond the transom towards the stern, then you can use a plane to level the edges.
Finally tighten the paper clips with pliers. We crimp everything in the inner area.
Each crack and joint of the watercraft must be taped with fiberglass tapes. The width of the first layer should reach 28 mm, subsequent layers should be about 75 mm. When placing each subsequent layer, we move it a little (on different sides).
After the fiberglass has hardened, it is necessary to remove the protruding edges of the fasteners. We glue the outer area with fiberglass.
To increase the degree of rigidity and increase the service life, it is necessary to strengthen the bottom with strips. To do this, holes for screws are drilled on the planks (the pitch is 25-28 cm). All the blanks, laid out in places, are fixed with screws, marked with a felt-tip pen and removed. Only after each basting has been treated with an adhesive base can the blanks be screwed into place. After the glue dries, the screws are unscrewed, and the resulting holes are clogged with nails cut from wood.
Removing accessories, fill all the holes in the casing with a mixture of epoxy resin and sawdust.
External part of the watercraft processed with glue and fiberglass.
The inside of the boat is covered hot drying oil.
The ship is being painted oil based.

Boat testing

After making your own boat, you should take it out onto the pond and be sure to test it. When checking speed characteristics, it is necessary to create conditions as close to reality as possible. In addition, testing is carried out with different load levels.

In this case, you can use an independent exit with two people on board. However, it is advisable that the total weight does not exceed 150 kg. You can measure your speed with a GPS navigator.

It is important to consider that motors with low power (5 hp) have difficulty withstanding an increase in load. This situation will get worse if the boat is too short.

Therefore, for such motors the recommended load does not exceed 90-100 kg, otherwise it will be impossible to switch to planing mode. The sufficient length of the boat and a good motor will allow you to easily plan even when fully loaded (150-160 kg).

When making a floating craft, all irregularities are necessary Sand the surfaces that appear after applying epoxy glue with sandpaper.
Any flaw can be filled with putty moisture resistant type.
There shouldn’t be any particular difficulties when building a boat., however, it is extremely important to follow all the recommendations of experts regarding the step-by-step process.
Before cutting the material, you should once again make sure that the measurements are correct. and only after that start cutting out the parts.
Selecting wooden material for making a watercraft, preference should be given to products without knots and cracks. We select only the highest quality specimens.
If the structure is assembled correctly, you can be confident in the strength and reliability of the boat. Products made from plywood very rarely leak.
A boat made from plywood is light, which does not cause any special problems during transportation.