Once upon a time, about 20 years ago, we conducted a small experiment, asking final year vocational school students majoring in carpentry what a malka is. The correct answer was given by less than 10% without 5 minutes of carpentry professionals. Meanwhile, the small goniometer is, first of all, carpentry tool, although it is used by both mechanics and builders.
Although the plasterers called the device small, which was a short strip with a cutout, used to create a uniform slope angle around windows and doors.
That's what it's called. But most of them had never even heard of the tool that gave its name to this simple template. One of the clearly smart people called the malka a status tool. Apparently because it is used by people who are quite experienced in their profession. Meanwhile, this technically uncomplicated and very easy-to-manufacture assistant can greatly facilitate the performance of a number of works both in the home workshop and on the construction site.
Design and purpose of the fry
The usual, simplest malka consists of two elements:
- pads - a fairly wide block with a slot;
- feather - a thin strip, which, when assembled, hides in the slot of the block.
These elements are connected to each other by a screw pair. The design of the screw pair may be completely different, but fundamental differences two: the screw can be protruding, and then, most often, instead of a regular nut, a wing is used to conveniently fix the relative position of the block and the feather, or it can be recessed.
The last option is more convenient for installing the fry in in the right place, but is less practical for fixing given angles and, as a rule, more technically complex.
Sometimes, but rarely, on the feather, and even less often, on the last, dimensional marks are applied. But the malka is not a measuring tool, but a marking tool. Its task is to fix the size and transfer it to the workpiece, or to workpieces, when replicating identical products.
Although, the desire of many manufacturers for universal unification has led to the creation of digital cameras equipped with liquid crystal displays. With memory, zeroing the result in a given position and other attributes of modern digital instruments, but such devices only have a common design, and functionally they are, rather, protractors.
Digital fry
They try to build everything into the small machine - even a bubble of a level, which generally does not fit well with the list of basic work performed with the help of the small machine.
Mechanical improvements are also trying to catch up with digital sophistications, supposedly expanding the functionality of the tool.
In our opinion, of all this abundance of technical solutions, more or less useful is the device of a groove in the feather, which allows you to vary its length, which in rare cases, but still, can be useful. And we will confirm our, for many ambiguous, conclusions with examples of work where malka is truly irreplaceable.
How to use malka?
If we are talking about a pure transfer of an angle to a workpiece, then there is nothing to describe here: set the angle specified by a template or sample, or a drawing (possibly scaled), fix the relative position of the pen and the block and transfer it where necessary. In this case, it is absolutely indifferent to us what the magnitude of this angle is in degrees, radians or segments of any size.
But, if you need to calculate the angle of conjugation of two connected elements, when it is different from a straight line, or a pair or three of others present on some miter box, then, perhaps, you cannot do without a small tool. Let's look at an advertising image of one of the digital cards.
The tool showed the wall bevel angle down to tenths, but did not bring us even 1/10 closer to practical solution the task of accurately joining pieces of plinth in such a very “wrong” corner. It is clear that by dividing 135.4° by 2, we get the angle at which the skirting boards should be cut, but marking them accurately and then cutting them is not an easy task. With the help of malka, these issues can be solved as easily as possible:
- Place the bait in the corner, pressing the block and feather tightly against both walls, and fix the turn of the corner.
- Transfer the resulting angle to a sheet of paper, drawing it with a pencil or pen.
- You cut out the resulting corner, although you can simply bend the sheet along the marked lines.
- Bend the resulting segment in half from the corner.
- You align the plinth by aligning its back part with one of the sides, and the end with the top of the corner.
- Combine cutting tool with the second ray of the angle and make a cut. If you have doubts about the verticality of the cut, place a block with an exact right angle behind it and cut along its edge.
The video shows a slightly more complex way of transferring an angle taken from a scale drawing.
But its relative difficulty lies in maintaining extreme accuracy, because even minor deviations in the overall length of the structure can result in decent linear deviations in size. What can we say about such metal-plastic window systems which are shown in the photo. If memory serves, their dimensions are: 5000 x 4000 x 3500 or so.
Can you imagine the consequences of an error in cutting the welding corners of the upper bevel of the structure? But everything was marked with impeccable accuracy using a small marker. A rectangle of 5000 ? was drawn on a flat floor in the workshop. 3500 with checking the diagonals, then one of the sides is extended to 4 meters and this point is connected to the second upper corner. Next - everything is as described in the example with the plinth, only the necessary values for welding are added to the nominal dimensions.
For some types of work, special baits are created - double ones. They are used to transfer the angles of rotation of the bay window and similar tasks.
There is confidence that after what has been described above, there is no particular need to explain in detail how such a tool works. It is only necessary to emphasize that the grooves in the unit, which replaces the block common to both feathers, allow the fry to be moved apart in width, increasing its functionality.
It is also obvious that this is a homemade small machine, and its design is significantly simplified, even in comparison with the simplest commercially produced one. But it does its job no worse than the factory one, it’s just not very easy to handle durable structures need to be more careful. But making even a more structurally complex piece of work is not a problem for a person who knows how to use simple carpentry tools.
Making malka with your own hands
And here, first of all, you should take the choice of wood seriously. It should be dry and free of knots, regardless of the breed. It’s better to take a fairly hard species: oak, ash, etc. Such a tool will last much longer, and the markings made with its help are more accurate.
Making your own fry
We deliberately took a video with an example of making fry from the simplest, almost waste materials and available tools so that you can see how simple this process is. Here's what additional functions from those offered by both the home-made man from the video and industrially produced copies, give it to your fry - decide for yourself, you know our opinion.
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Before plastering, the window is covered with film. The corner of the window frame is covered with masking tape and covered with a strip of adhesive tape (adhesive tape is protection against water, splashes of solution) to slide the stop along the corner. A film is glued along the edge of the tape. For plastering side window slopes, rules are established for resting the fry. The rules are established vertically according to a plumb line or level. At one angle inside the slope, taking into account the thickness of the tiles and glue - cement (distance to the hinges and window sash).
After setting the rules, the solution is poured. The wall is first sprayed with water. If the mortar layer is more than 40 mm, the mortar is thrown into several capes (the second layer is thrown after the first has set). After applying the solution, the excess is removed with a small tool, sliding from bottom to top. One side of the fry, the limiter, rests against the corner of the window frame, and the other side, with the edge of the fry, rests against the edge of the rule.
Adjacent to window frame The plaster is cleaned with a trowel or a sharp corner of the rule. And it is rubbed with a grater. After removing the rules from the side slopes, a rule is established on upper slope. Brackets for fastening the rule are installed according to the level. The rule is adjusted and pressed. The solution is thrown on, the fry limiter is placed on the corner of the frame, and pressed against the rule. And with a movement to the side, the excess solution is cut off.
After setting - grout. Cement-sand plaster mortar. For elasticity, cement adhesive for tiles of 0.5 - 1.0 kg is added to the solution. for 25 kg. dry solution. The jumper is covered with galvanized metal plaster mesh dowels with driving screws. Under the screw heads, washers are made from 
roofing metal larger than a grid cell. On the side slopes, if the layer is thick (more than 50 mm), foam block, gypsum, a plaster mesh is also placed. You can attach the mesh to the foam block or plaster using nails or self-tapping screws without dowels, hammering it in and screwing it in at different angles.
I often have to do different things installation work, where a tool such as a level or protractor is required. So I decided to make a homemade protractor. As it turned out, making it is not at all as difficult as it seemed at first. In the photo I am measuring the angle of the rafters in the attic.
The main component of a protractor is an ordinary school protractor. For the base of the protractor I used a pine board with an aspect ratio of 1x4. The correctness of the protractor readings will depend on the sides and angles of this board, so it must be made with maximum accuracy. Checking the corners and diagonal.
Place the board on a flat surface and press the protractor against it, then you need to fix the protractor using clamps. Make sure that the protractor does not move when you tighten the clamps. The accuracy of a homemade protractor will depend on this.
We drill holes for the screws and go through them with a countersink so that the heads of the screws do not protrude and the protractor pointer does not cling to them.
The protractor pointer can be made from a nail or thick wire. I have welding, so I just welded the nail to the nut and worked out the roughness on the knife. If there is no welding, then you can make a pointer from wire by bending one end with pliers.
In the center of the protractor circle thin drill Drill a hole for the self-tapping screw and screw in the protractor indicator.
All that remains is to calibrate the inclinometer. To do this, you need to set the level strictly horizontally and place a protractor on it. If the pointer does not show 90 degrees, we achieve accuracy simply by carefully bending the nail in the desired direction. That's all - the homemade protractor is ready. See more interesting ones here.
Of course, plastering slopes is a job that requires qualifications and experience. And it’s better to take it on when you have learned the basics of plastering simple surfaces, walls and ceilings.
so, for those. For those who are not afraid of difficulties, our article is about plastering slopes with your own hands.
Tool
For any task you need a tool. Plastering window slopes is no exception. The set of tools will depend on what materials you use.
In any case, you will need:
- good level;
- aluminum rule;
- pencil;
- fry;
- roulette;
- spatula 5 cm;
- plywood or metal block;
- Master OK;
- solution container;
- water container;
- hammer-pick.
A level that is too long will not work. It may simply not fit between the lintel and the window sill. At the same time, it is inconvenient to work short. Choose the golden mean, it will be a level 1 meter long. For auxiliary work, a gun with sealant and a knife will be useful.
You may also need a cylinder with polyurethane foam to “blow out” the gaps between window frame and the opening in which it is installed.
If you use cement-based, you need to get a grater and a grater. If using a rotband, a large and small trowel, as well as a 45 cm spatula and a sponge grater.
Overalls and work shoes should be comfortable and not interfere with movement. Since the plasterer's hands are in direct contact with the solution, it is best to get sealed nitrile gloves.
If you have seriously decided to master such a thing as the technology of plastering slopes, borrow or independently put together a normal plaster goat from boards. The work will be more fun, and it will be safer. Plastering from a stepladder or stool is a bad idea. It's very inconvenient and takes about twice as long.
Construction goat
Sequence of work
Surface preparation
Before plastering the slopes on the windows, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work.
Convenience will depend on their quality further work, and the durability of the finished finish.
- It is advisable to install the window sill before plastering works. This will make it possible not to subsequently seal the gaps between it and the side slopes, as well as increase the strength of the installation.
It is recommended to reliably protect it from mechanical damage and possible penetration of the solution by laying a thick layer of paper on top or laying unnecessary pieces of drywall of suitable size, if any are left over from the ceilings or walls.
- If on window opening there are leftovers old plaster, paint or other contaminants must be removed. The solution should be placed on something solid and not on dirt or dust.
- It is also better to cover the window block with film. In a single production, you can get by with film by gluing it to the window in pieces masking tape. You should also protect handles, heating radiators and other fittings by wrapping them in paper.
- After cleaning, cut off excess foam with a knife.
- To improve adhesion (increase the adhesion of the applied solution to the base), prime the surface with a primer deep penetration. Her choice depends on building material, from which the window opening is made.
- Then apply a vapor barrier. WITH inside foam walls must be sealed with special vapor barrier film or apply a layer of silicone frost-resistant sealant on it.
Advice! The sealant must be applied to a dry surface, and excess should be removed immediately.
Note! If you do not vapor barrier the foam seal from the inside, over time the foam may become wet from condensation and lose its heat-shielding properties, windows and slopes will begin to sweat, and a draft will come from under the frames.
A few words about malka
- Next, you should make a fry. Malka is a template according to which plaster is made. If you look closely at the slopes, they are not just straight, but expand slightly inward, forming a window opening.
It is usually made from a piece of plywood. It is a narrow piece of plywood, slightly longer than the slope by 5-10 cm, and about 15 cm wide. One side has a cutout; during operation, it is this side that will move along the slope. The second is based on the installed beacon.
Thanks to this device, after removing the applied mortar with a small tool, the slope will be smooth. It is also necessary to make another cutout through which the window hinges will pass.
It is advisable to slightly remove the “chamfer” (round it off with a file) so that the plywood does not chip during work.
Professionals use metal baits made of aluminum, which are made to order. In principle, you can do without it, but no one guarantees that the angle of repose will be the same everywhere.
The room temperature should not be lower than +5 ˚С for cement mortar or +10˚С - for rotband.
Do not try to prepare a large volume of the mixture at once. This especially applies to, which requires a fairly fast operating technique.
Before plastering the slopes, it is necessary to calculate the amount of mortar. Its volume is determined based on the area of the slope and the thickness of the future plaster layer.
Plastering slopes is carried out according to the same rules as plastering regular wall with an angle, only the dawn of the window is done slowly.
This is done as follows:
The finishing is similar. Before starting, it is recommended to install a perforated corner on the corners to protect the edge from mechanical damage.
If you have plastic windows
When the slope has already been completed, but the mortar has not yet dried, it is necessary to cut a groove between the slope and the frame with a spatula 3-5 mm wide, and then fill it silicone sealant. The cured silicone forms a protective seal.
The fact is that plastic windows(especially from PVC profiles not the most best quality) expand greatly when exposed to sunlight. At the same time, they can expand so much that cracks appear at the place where they meet the slope. Silicone is a very elastic material and will not allow this.
Summing up
We hope our article was useful to you. In order to more accurately understand the technological and practical issue, our website provides detailed photo and video instructions in which you will find useful information on this issue.
Malka has been known to carpenters for centuries. With this simple hand tools You can mark corners on workpieces with high accuracy. How professionals do this is described in the article.
MARKING
CONNECTIONS “ON USER”
If the table top and cabinet corners are made exactly at an angle of 90°, decorate them decorative strips easily. You just need to file the ends of the planks at an angle of 45°, for example, using a miter box. But this doesn't always happen. It is in such cases that you can use a small tool to copy any angle, transfer it to a sheet of paper and use several simple techniques mark the parts for miter joining.
First you need to copy the angle and divide it in half, that is, draw a bisector. To do this, loosen the wing nut on the small piece, press the block to one side of the corner, and the ruler to the other, and tighten the nut. Similarly, you can set the fry along the inner corner.
Now, aligning the edge of the sheet of paper with the straight edge technological plate, transfer the angle from the ruler to the paper (the line can be drawn on either side of the ruler). Then, using a compass, divide the angle in half.
The edge of the sheet is aligned with the edge
technological plate
The bisector passes through the point of intersection of two arcs
4 Place the compass needle in
I vertex (point “B”) of the marked angle and, having drawn an arc with a radius of 70-120 mm, make notches (points “C” and “A”) on both its sides. For greater accuracy, the stylus should be sharpened sharply.
2 Without changing the compass solution, place its needle at point “C” and draw a second arc.
3 Moving the compass needle to point “A”, draw the third arc. Through point “D” (intersection of arcs) and point “B” a straight line is drawn, which will be the bisector.