Before starting to build a mansion, they always plan how to arrange ventilation in the basement and lay its scheme into the project. But what if you bought an old country house and found mold on the walls and stale air in the cellar? Here you will have to do the calculation of the basement ventilation yourself and mount the duct system. Learn from the article how to properly ventilate the basement. A real craftsman will be able to do such work.
The purpose of the basement and the need for ventilation
For many generations of rural residents and summer residents, the cellar served as a place to store the harvest and stocks for the winter. Natural ventilation ensured as much air as possible so that the potatoes would not rot. But to maintain a normal microclimate, it is desirable to make the ventilation in the basement more efficient.
In modern cottages, basements are most often used as gyms, billiard rooms, garages or workshops. Under these conditions, only forced ventilation in the basement is able to provide the necessary air exchange. You will definitely have to decide how to ventilate the basement in order to prevent mold from forming if waterproofing is not done correctly.
Pay special attention to the ventilation system in the basement where the heating equipment is installed. For combustion of fuel in the boiler, an uninterrupted supply of air is required.
There are various ventilation systems. The main ones are:
- natural, in which the movement of air within the cellar occurs due to the fact that the heated air mass tends to the outside, and colder fresh air comes to replace it;
- forced, in which air exchange is enhanced due to the operation of fans installed in the duct network.
When choosing how to properly arrange ventilation in the basement - with natural or forced air exchange - first of all, consider the layout and purpose of the basement.
Vents for natural air access to the basement
For free penetration of outside air, natural ventilation in the basement is sufficient. In the basement of the foundation during construction, ventilation ducts, the so-called air ducts, must be laid. If this is not taken care of in advance, you will have to do the natural ventilation in the basement with your own hands.
Make blowouts under each wall of the house, or at least under two opposite ones. Numerous photos and training videos will help you understand how to properly arrange ventilation in the basement. Our photo shows that the holes must be provided with bars from four-legged "guests". In addition, natural ventilation in the basement provides that in winter the ventilation can be partially covered.
How to calculate natural ventilation in the basement? Follow the rule to arrange one vent for every 2 linear meters, and to determine the diameter of the vents, divide the basement area by 400. For example, your underground area is 60 m², then the total area of \u200b\u200bthe vents will be 0.15 m². Given that in all 4 walls you will have a total of 12 vents, then for good ventilation in the basement, the dimensions of the vent should be 10X12.5 cm.
To calculate the number and size of air vents, also take into account the climate in the area, the composition of the soil, the location of the house in a lowland or on a hillock.
Supply and exhaust method of ventilation of the cellar
If your cellar is small in size and not separated by internal walls, then you can get by with the simplest supply and exhaust ventilation, which is included in the category of natural ventilation. The stale air will rise up through the exhaust duct. In addition to the exhaust duct, you will need to make a second, supply duct, through which air will flow from the yard. Therefore, the hood in the cellar can be easily done by hand.
Basement chimney
Run the exhaust duct from the basement through all the floors of the house so that its upper end rises above the roof. Make an exhaust hole at the top of the basement wall, right under the ceiling. If you want to know how to make effective ventilation in the basement, follow the advice of experts. They claim that it is possible to combine the exhaust duct with the chimney or lay it close to it. Additional channel heating will provide stronger traction.
Insulate the upper part of the pipe, because in winter, when it comes into contact with cold outside air, condensation will form inside the channel. Only by knowing how to properly ventilate your basement, you will protect the air duct from the appearance of a layer of frozen frost, which can partially close the internal gap. At the lower end of the exhaust duct, install a branch pipe through which drops of condensate will flow. Everything, the hood for the basement is ready.
Supply pipe for basement
For ventilation in a small basement, an inlet air duct may not be needed, there will be enough ventilation. But if your basement has a decent cubic capacity, then it is advisable to install a supply pipe. The supply ventilation scheme allows the installation of the pipe in two ways: directly through the vent or with an outlet to the roof. In any case, its lower end should not reach the floor level by 20–30 cm.
To ensure good circulation of the air mass, both exhaust ducts from the basement should be located in opposite corners.
Forced basement ventilation
In a large basement with a complex layout, natural air exchange may not be enough. Then only with the help of forced ventilation you will be able to keep the air dry and fresh. To do this, you will need to lay an air duct under the ceiling and install a duct fan in it, because. a simple natural draft basement hood will not work here.
To understand how to calculate the ventilation efficiency in the basement, first select the fan power you need. Its performance should be such that in one hour it can drive through itself a volume of air that is 2.5–3 times the internal volume of the basement.
Install the system elements in soundproofing so that the noise of the vibrating fan does not irritate your hearing. To completely get rid of noise, there is an option to install an exhaust fan outside the house.
The best way to arrange ventilation in the basement is to install an automated forced ventilation system. Its main advantages:
- automatic regulation;
- equipment with filters;
- heating of incoming air;
- hydration to a comfortable level.
Another option to ventilate your basement is air conditioning. Preferably one that can be programmed for switching frequency. The use of air conditioning is relevant for basements equipped as real rooms. In this case, your costs for air ducts will be significantly reduced.
How to pre-calculate ventilation in the basement
Prepare a project that will contain the calculation of the forced ventilation of your basement. It should take into account the following indicators:
- the volume of the basement;
- speed of movement in air ducts;
- hourly rate of air exchange;
- section of air ducts;
- loss of pressure in the channels;
- climatic features.
Creating such a project will require specialized knowledge from you, so entrust the problem of how to calculate ventilation in the basement to specialists if possible. For example, we can give an average version of the recommended parameters:
Choice of materials for cellar air ducts
Air ducts for the ventilation system in the basement are the main elements, the correct choice of which will determine whether the entire system is sufficiently effective. When calculating the ventilation of the basement, you need to consider what materials to make the air ducts from.
Previously, in the villages, they simply decided how to arrange ventilation in the basement. To freshen the air in the cellars, a wooden box made of planks was used. To save materials, it was often made two-channel, combining supply and exhaust.
The hood for the cellar made of wood is short-lived, the boards rot from dampness, and new technologies have replaced the old-fashioned methods. Now for the ventilation device in the basement it is more logical to use air ducts made of metals and plastic.
According to the material of manufacture, air ducts are:
- Metal. Made of galvanized sheet, stainless steel, aluminum alloys. They are durable, fireproof, securely mounted and have a long service life. The disadvantage is the relatively high cost;
- Plastic. Made from environmentally friendly polypropylene. They are lighter than metal, provide excellent tightness of connections. The disadvantage is that they can crack from strong impacts and deform from high temperatures;
- Flexible corrugated. Made of polymeric materials, reinforced with steel wire for strength. The disadvantage is increased noise and resistance to air flow.
For do-it-yourself ventilation in the basement, circular ducts are the most popular. Such pipes are easier to install and they slow down the air flow less. Compared to them, rectangular ducts look more aesthetically pleasing under the ceiling, but their aerodynamic properties are somewhat worse.
Along with air ducts, you will find on sale standardized fittings for them and extracts from the cellar. These are tees and crosses, transitions and bends, dampers, plugs and more.
Installation of air ducts in the basement and cellar
For ventilation in your own basement, you will need a minimum number of materials. Basically - ventilation pipes, clamps for fixing them, dowels and self-tapping screws, protective grilles, visors and deflectors. You will also need the usual set of tools for installation work: a drill and a side cutter, a hammer and pliers, a knife, various screwdrivers.
The process of installing ventilation in the basement is most clearly shown on video and photo , but you should first understand the main stages of work and their sequence.
- Mark the places of installation of air ducts according to the project;
- Punch holes in the walls for the elements of the ventilation system;
- Install the fasteners on the prepared places;
- On the floor, assemble sections of the duct from separate fragments;
- Raise the mounted part of the system and fix it on the mounts;
- Seal the joints of the parts with sealing tape.
Function check and preventive maintenance
You can check the operability of the installed ventilation device in the basement in any of three simple ways: bring a thin paper napkin, a burning candle or a smoking cigarette to the duct opening. If there is air movement, it will be immediately noticeable.
How to properly arrange the hood in the cellar so that it never clogs? Unfortunately, this does not happen. After a few years, the traction force of the forced ventilation in the cellar can noticeably decrease. The inner surface of the air ducts is gradually overgrown with cobwebs and dust deposits, so you have to periodically clean the ventilation system in the basement with your own hands. For this, professionals use the chemical aerosol cleaning method or use hydromechanical devices and vacuum pumps. But it will not be difficult for you to do preventive maintenance yourself.
The easiest way to clean the supply and exhaust ventilation of the basement at home is to lower a bag of sand on a cord into the vertical air duct.
Look at the video of the ventilation option in the basement, assembled from improvised materials
You have already learned in theory how to properly ventilate the basement, and you can start creating it yourself. During the development of the project, consider all factors, ranging from the natural features in your area to the specific operating conditions of the basement. If you perform installation work competently, accurately and without fuss, then soon you will be able to breathe freely.
Not a single basement can do without a ventilation system, since in the absence of a constant influx of fresh air, dampness cannot be avoided. In basements and cellars, not only canned stocks are usually stored, but also fresh vegetables and fruits that “breathe”, from which moisture must accumulate in the room. In addition, the walls can absorb moisture from the soil located on the outside, if the plinth was poorly arranged during construction.
Do-it-yourself ventilation of the cellar is quite simple. Moreover, it is possible to install and adjust the operation of this system of constant air exchange not only at the construction stage, but also already in the finished storage.
How the system works
The operation of the ventilation system is based on the laws of physics, and if you carefully consider its schematic diagram, you can see that it is arranged very simply and clearly.
The general principle of ventilation is extremely simple In the cellar room, two ventilation openings are provided, through one of which fresh air enters the basement, and through the second it is removed along with all the fumes. But the system was would not effective enough if the ventilation holes were not would pipes of a certain diameter are connected.
Also, the quality of ventilation is highly dependent on the correct location of the exhaust and supply pipes and on raising them above the soil surface above the cellar.
Ventilation pipes can be installed in the walls of the basement if it is under the house or garage, or they can be brought out through the ceiling, in the case when arranged in the yard as a separate building.
Another important point in the calculation and installation of the system is the height of the installation of pipes from the basement floor and bringing them out into the street, since too much cold air can enter the room, which will be dangerous for vegetables stored fresh in chests. You can’t make the holes too small either, since the stale air will not completely leave the room, which means that the products stored in it will definitely begin to deteriorate.
Before starting the installation of any of the types of ventilation systems, you need to familiarize yourself with some recommendations that must be taken into account during the design and construction work:
- It will be right if the ventilation system begins to be laid during the construction of the cellar - in this case, channels are left in the masonry walls into which ventilation pipes are installed.
Of course, the best option is to install a ventilation system during the construction of the cellar. In order not to subsequently guess where it is better to install pipes, ventilation must be immediately included in the cellar project.
- Installed pipes must have the same diameter - this parameter will make the air circulation uniform. If it is necessary to speed up the removal of stagnant air saturated with dampness, the exhaust pipe can be taken with a slightly larger diameter than that of the supply pipe. However, under no circumstances should an exhaust pipe with a diameter smaller than that of the supply pipe be installed, since under such conditions the air may begin to linger inside the room. This will negatively affect the products stored in the cellar, but the main danger in se in the other, a certain threat to human health is created when it descends into a gassed underground room.
- Never place both ventilation pipes next to each other, as in this case the room will not be well ventilated. They must be mounted on opposite walls or in opposite corners. This is done so that a fresh stream, before going out into the street, passes through the entire room and pushes the stale air to the exit into the exhaust pipe.
- The exhaust pipe opening must be mounted under the ceiling, as the warmer exhaust air rushes up. Such its location will contribute to constant air purification, without stagnation in the ceiling area, and hence the good preservation of products.
- To ensure good draft, the ventilation pipe of the hood rises above the ridge or embankment above the cellar ceiling by at least 1500 mm.
- For the ventilation system, plastic pipes intended for sewerage are most often used. For small rooms of this diameter is usually enough.
- If the cellar is located under the garage or under another utility room, then the entrance hatch can be used as an exhaust hole.
In this case, two two rtsy are made, one insulated - winter, and the other - in the form of a frame, with a small lattice fixed on it. The grate is necessary so that small rodents do not slip into the basement.
The insulated hatch is removed in the summer to constantly ventilate the cellar. If the room above the basement is insulated, then ventilation sessions can be carried out in winter.
Option - cellar in the basement under the house - When installing ventilation in a cellar located under a house or garage, you need to provide for that so that the bends and turns of both the supply and exhaust pipes have as less as possible. Ideally, it is better to achieve such an arrangement that the pipe is absolutely straight.
- The pipe along its entire length must have one diameter, without expansions and narrowings.
- On the street, the supply pipe, if it is located low above the ground, must be closed with a mesh ( grate) to protect the cellar from the penetration of rodents or other small animals and birds.
- It is recommended to install dampers regulating the inflow and outflow of air in both pipes, which are especially necessary in winter. They help to dose the intake of cold air in severe frosts and, accordingly, the outflow of warm air, to maintain the necessary microclimate in the cellar.
- If the pipe heads are located strictly vertically, they must be protected from precipitation, dust and debris from getting inside by installing a metal umbrella or deflector on top.
The deflector is more profitable, as it creates an artificial rarefaction and increases traction When using a deflector, a vacuum area is created around it, and this phenomenon contributes to an increase in traction.
- The section of the exhaust pipe located on the street must be well insulated to avoid condensation during the cold season.
Types of cellar ventilation systems
There are two basic types of ventilation systems - natural and forced. And one or another option is chosen depending on the volume and layout of the basement room.
Natural ventilation system
Natural ventilation is based on the difference in pressure and temperature between indoors and outdoors. Efficient work largely depends on the correct location of the pipes. So, the air inlet should be at a maximum height of 250 ÷ 300 mm from the floor, and the exhaust should be 100 ÷ 200 mm below the ceiling level. It is unacceptable to place it even lower, otherwise the ceiling will start to dampen.
This ventilation system may not be enough for a large cellar, or if it consists of several rooms.
Video: Natural ventilation in the cellar under the garage
Forced ventilation system
In the forced ventilation system, there are all the same channels (pipes), but fans are built into them to create forced air movement.
In the simplest forced-type systems, the fan is installed on the exhaust duct. Thus, an artificial rarefaction is created in the room, which contributes to the active flow of fresh air into the cellar through the inlet. The power of the selected fan will depend on the volume of the room.
They act differently - they install fans on both the supply and exhaust ducts. This is true in voluminous, complex in configuration basements. Here you will definitely need the help of a specialist in order to calculate the consistency of the air inlet and outlet, that is, the diameters of the channels and the power (performance) of the fans installed in them.
Video: an example of homemade forced cellar ventilation
Calculation of ventilation duct diameters
With any type of ventilation, it is very important to correctly determine the diameters of the pipes. The calculation algorithms used by professional designers are very complex, and it makes no sense to give them in full. However, when equipping ventilation in a small private cellar, you can use a simplified calculation method.
So, with some assumptions that are acceptable in these conditions, we can assume that for one square meter of cellar area, 26 square centimeters of the cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bthe ventilation duct are required. So, for example, you can figure out what diameter of the pipe will be needed for a cellar with dimensions of 3 × 2 meters.
Finding the area of the room:
S = 3 × 2 = 6 m²
According to the indicated ratio, it will require a pipe of the following channel cross-sectional area:
T \u003d 6 × 26 \u003d 156 cm²
It remains to find the radius of the pipe:
R \u003d √ (T / π) \u003d √ (156 / 3.14) ≈ 7.05 cm
Therefore, the diameter of the supply pipe:
Dp ≈ 14 cm = 140 mm.
Provided that only supply ventilation is installed in the basement, and the hatch will play the role of an exhaust hatch, then you can slightly increase the inlet channel by installing a pipe with a diameter of 150 mm.
To ensure air exchange, it is customary to install a pipe with a diameter of 10 ÷ 15% larger than at the inlet on the exhaust duct. In the example under consideration, it is possible to install on the exhaust duct:
Dv \u003d Dp + 15% \u003d 140 + 21 ≈ 160 mm
Installation of ventilation
Having carried out the necessary calculations, taking into account all the nuances described above, you can proceed to the installation of ventilation.
- If the ventilation system is installed after the construction of the cellar, then a hole must be made in its ceiling for the passage of the air duct.
- Then, through the hole in the cellar, a pipe is lowered, which will work on the hood, it is fixed under the ceiling, no more than 100 ÷ 150 mm below its surface.
- On the street, the exhaust pipe is raised to a height of at least 1500 mm above the ground or above the roof surface.
- In the opposite corner of the cellar, a hole is also made in the ceiling or wall, and a supply pipe is installed and fixed in it, which is lowered low to the floor. It should be located not lower than 200 mm from the floor and not higher than 500 mm.
- On the street, the supply pipe should not be made very high. If it comes out through the ceiling, it is enough to raise it by 200 ÷ 250 mm. It should be borne in mind that the lower the inlet of the supply pipe is located, the higher the pressure difference at the inlet and outlet, the stronger the natural draft, and hence the air flow.
- If the supply pipe is led out through the wall, then a ventilation grill or a plastic deflector is put on it.
- In the event that the installation of ventilation for the cellar is carried out in a house where a fireplace or stove is installed, it is recommended to raise the exhaust pipe next to the chimney, as this activates the removal of exhaust air from the basement due to the large temperature difference.
- It is recommended to install dampers on the pipes inside the cellar to adjust the strength of the air flow. By opening them to the desired clearance in the room, the intensity of circulation, humidity and air temperature are regulated. It is from the presence of a damper and the correct regulation of the microclimate in the cellar that it will depend on whether the blanks are kept in proper condition for a long time.
After the system is assembled, be sure to check it for normal draft.
- To check the air flow pressure at the inlet, a piece of thin paper must be attached to the pipe. If it begins to sway clearly, then the intensity of air intake is good.
- Another way to check the operation of the system is to direct the smoke, which may come from paper lit in a metal pail. It will be enough to have a couple of old newspapers, which need to be lit, allowed to burn down to half, and then extinguished to a state of decay.
Additional steps to maintain a normal microclimate
To maintain a microclimate comfortable for storing food in the cellar, the following actions should be periodically carried out:
In order to help reduce the humidity in the basement, it is necessary to carry out its regular ventilation. So, in the summer, all doors or hatches open and the dampers on the openings open completely. The hot summer wind will do its job - dry and ventilate the cellar. Other, more effective methods for forced drying of the cellar will be described below.
There are times when it is necessary to do the opposite - to increase the humidity in the storage room. Then, in the cellar, water is sprayed with a spray gun, the floor is sprinkled with wet sawdust, or a box filled with wet sand is installed. Sawdust and sand are moistened with water as needed.
Cellar drying
It can also be attributed to ventilation measures, so you should also have a sufficient idea about them. Moreover, there are several ways to perform this procedure.
As mentioned above, all drying processes are carried out in the summer, but it is additionally recommended to perform them one more time immediately before laying vegetables in the cellar.
If the room is very damp, then all items of “basement furniture” and boxes (lari) for storing vegetables should be removed from it. It is advisable to dry them in direct sunlight - their ultraviolet component will be an excellent "cure" for mold and fungus.
All doors and hatches open wide, and if a fan is installed in the basement, then it can also be turned on. Thus, the cellar should be ventilated for 3 ÷ 5 days, and this will be a preliminary preparation before the main drying measures.
The first way - boxes with a hygroscopic substance
In the process of drying, sometimes you can do with a very simple method. A box filled with quicklime or coarse table salt is brought into the cellar. These components are inexpensive, highly hygroscopic and absorb moisture well. Not only that, they also disinfect the air and walls of the room.
The second way is the old candle method.
A very old, popular, extremely simple and affordable method of drying is to install a burning candle at the exhaust pipe. It must be installed in an iron container and on a stable stand.
A simple and effective way to dry - with a candle The candle contributes to the creation of a more intense draft in the chimney, so the air circulation in the room is accelerated, and its exchange occurs much more often than with normal ventilation.
In addition to a candle, a conventional liquid or dry fuel spirit lamp can be used for the same purpose.
Drying in this way continues for several days, depending on how humid the room is. The candle or fuel in the burner is replaced several times as necessary - until the desired result is obtained.
The third way is a metal brazier
A more troublesome, but no less reliable way to quickly dry out is with the help of an improvised brazier, which can be made from a metal container, for example, from an old bucket.
Several holes are made in it to increase traction, and then firewood is loaded into the container, preferably birch, as they are able to create a favorable disinfecting smoke.
You can create a more complex structure using a cast-iron grate, which is installed on bricks placed at its corners. Installed on top of the grate bucketwithout a bottom firewood is also stacked and set on fire. The advantage of this method is that the grate is able to glow red hot, and then slowly cool down, giving off heat to the room. At the same time, traction increases, and, accordingly, air exchange is accelerated.
The fire should burn continuously for at least 12 ÷ 14 hours, so you need to allocate a whole day for these procedures and prepare a lot of birch firewood.
The rise of the brazier for additional loading of firewood and lowering is carried out through the hatch using a cable with a hook. A place for such an impromptu "fenced fire" must be prepared in advance so that no prerequisites for a fire are created.
The fourth way is the use of electric heaters
Not too troublesome can be called a method using electric heaters. For this purpose, any of the commercially available devices is suitable, but it is best to use either “wind blowing” models.
The heater is installed in the middle of the cellar so that heat is evenly distributed over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room.
When using this method, you need to fully understand that such a drying process is quite long and, therefore, expensive, so you need to immediately calculate your financial capabilities.
Drying the cellar powerful heat generator quite popular, as this method is very effective. It is even used to dry the basements of houses that survived the flood.
Due to thermal radiation and the powerful flow created by the fan, the cellar dries out quickly enough. The device also runs on electricity, but such drying will be cheaper, as it will pass much faster. However, you can try to find a heat gun that works on propane.
Prices for popular models of electric heaters
Electric heaters
The fifth way is a regular home fan
Since there are fans in almost every home, they are also often used to remove excess moisture from the cellar. The fan is installed in the center of the cellar and turned on for three to five days. In this case, all existing openings, doors or hatches must be wide open.
The sixth way is a portable stove
Used for the procedures of drying basements and conventional stoves-potbelly stoves.
In this case, the chimney of the furnace is brought to the exhaust hole, and the potbelly stove is heated for three to five days. At the same time, air exchange in the cellar increases rapidly, which leads to effective drying of the room.
If there is no exhaust pipe in the cellar, then this method does not make sense, since there will be a lot of smoke in the room, but the drying effect will be very small.
Cellar waterproofing treatment
After drying the cellar, for the longest possible preservation of the achieved state of the room, it is recommended to cover the surfaces of the walls and floor with waterproofing compounds.
- If the walls are made of concrete, then it is used, which is treated with surfaces in several layers.
With each layer, it penetrates deep into the concrete slab, closing all the pores inside it, thus creating a waterproof but breathable surface.
- They cover the dried cellar and roofing material, which is excellent waterproofing.
In this case, you can get the desired effect if the material is laid on a flat surface. On the her mastic is applied, which is then heated, and then on her roofing material is glued, creating waterproof walls and floors.
- Clay is an excellent waterproofing environmentally friendly material.
This method of waterproofing a room is called stuffing. The only requirement for natural material for floor and wall construction is a high percentage of fat content.
- For the process, you will need stones that will strengthen the cellar floor. They are poured on its surface, then a solution of clay with the addition of sand is laid on top of them. This layer should be at least 100 ÷ 120 mm. The consistency of the clay solution should be thick enough.
- The clay is spread over the surface and tamped down among the stones, creating a mixed coating.
- Having completely compacted the surface to an even state, a layer of coarse-grained sand is poured onto it, the thickness of which should be 40 ÷ 60 mm. The sand is also compacted with a rammer, which makes the surface even more dense. The rest of the sand is then simply swept off the floor. If you want to achieve a neat, even surface, then it is finally smoothed out from above with the help of a special grouting tool.
- The clay floor dries for a long time - from 20 to 40 days, so this work should be started in early summer. Then the cellar will be fully ready for operation in the fall.
- Earthen walls can also waterproof clay. On them, with the help of small metal brackets, a chain-link mesh or ordinary soft wire is fixed. Then a clay solution is poured onto this base. When it dries, another layer is applied, which is leveled by hand or with grout, in a circular motion.
In addition to these waterproofing materials, others are also used, but the above can be called the most affordable and safest for the premises where food will be stored.
A ventilation device in the cellar is necessary, and it is better to think about it in advance, having installed it even during the construction of the storage. If the system is installed correctly, then serious and long-term drying processes can be avoided, since it will be enough to get by with ordinary ventilation.
Video: how ventilation can be arranged in the cellar
A properly created hood in the basement prevents condensation on the wall surface of this storage, protecting vegetables and fruits from the rotting process. Now a huge variety of products for organizing an air exchange system has been proposed.
However, nothing special is required for a conventional hood device. Let's talk about how to create a hood in the storage with your own hands without unwanted financial waste.
Do-it-yourself hood
The simple design of the hood in no way depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe building, the purpose of the cellar and climatic conditions.
To equip such a hood in the storage room, you will need two pipes. The function of one is to extract, the second will be inlet. Through these pipes there is an effective air exchange.
Installation options
Installation of pipes intended for extracting the basement is not difficult. The supply type device is brought out at the ground. The bottom side is located at the bottom of the vault. The pipe is placed in a perpendicular corner, under the ceiling surface above the food. Its upper side is displayed by overlapping on the roof.
By means of certain devices, the efficiency of the installed hood is significantly increased:
Deflector. Installed above the roof on the pipe. The exhaust device can be closed with a steel cap that prevents moisture from entering. This cap is protected by a cylindrical wall.
Such a device is called a deflector. In gusty winds, pressure is formed under this device, which helps to increase the efficiency of the equipped hood from the storage.
In addition, a grate must be created on the supply type pipe to block the entry of insects, as well as rodents into the room. This type of device will help to provide reliable protection to the storage.
Materials for arranging ventilation pipes
The correct hood in the cellar is created independently quite simply. There are several popular materials that are constantly used for the production of pipes for an efficient exhaust system: asbestos cement, as well as low-pressure polyethylene.
According to the external characteristics of the device, asbestos-cement similar to slate, it is for this reason that they are called slate. Both asbestos cement and polyethylene are reliable, practical and extremely durable.
Polyethylene pipes are not difficult to install on their own. However, in the process of work, it is important that the cellar hood is organized correctly, as in the photo, for which it is important to weld pipes, which is not immediately possible for beginners.
Be that as it may, the choice of a specific material for arranging basement ventilation depends on the requirements for the cellar room. If there are difficulties with the choice, then it is preferable to seek professional help.
If the storage is of a minimum area, then it is not necessary to equip a powerful ventilation system, since a single pipe can provide suitable humidity and temperature conditions.
Depending on the type and area of \u200b\u200bspace, the basement hood scheme has personal characteristics. It would be correct to consider all cases separately.
Special fans
To equip an efficient hood for storage, certain fans will be required. There are duct as well as axial ventilation structures that differ in placement and operation.
The duct type fan is built into the supply and exhaust pipes. Ventilation axial devices, on the contrary, are arranged near the exit.
In addition, the market offers the so-called snail fans, however, their use is associated with some problems, for this reason it is better to give preference to the traditional solution for extracting the basement space.
Installation of a duct type fan
This type of fan may not have a high degree of performance, for this reason it can be powered from a minimal power supply. It is advisable to purchase an amplitude device that can provide a high level of efficiency.
A well-installed hood for the basement space perfectly manifests itself in the initial operational period.
So, the air in the cellar becomes humidified, but not very much, as a result of which food products do not lend themselves to any freezing, the temperature regime reaches 4 degrees.
As we said above, the installation of this type of hood can be done without the help of professionals and the use of complex tools, as well as special technical equipment. Simply put, everything can be done with your own hands, especially if you have the initial skills.
Photo of the hood in the cellar
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It does not matter which particular method of implementation of the respective project is chosen. In any case, knowledge on how to make a hood in the cellar will come in handy. They will help you choose the right materials and technologies, eliminate errors in the independent performance of work operations. If you plan to hire third-party performers, it will be easier to control their actions.
To accurately select the appropriate system components, you need to study the ventilation
In any project, the first stage should be precisely formulate the problem. To do this, consider the following considerations:
- The influx of fresh air will eliminate unpleasant odors, harmful chemical compounds and microorganisms from the room.
- It is used to remove excess moisture and maintain a certain temperature.
- Since external weather conditions change, adjusting the intensity of the system will come in handy.
It must be borne in mind that the hood in the cellar of the garage will differ from a similar design installed separately on the site, or in the basement of a residential building. Thus, when studying this issue, it is necessary to take into account the features of a particular property.
How to make a hood in the cellar using different technologies
All possible combinations are allowed. But all ventilation systems can be divided into two main groups. The first one involves the movement of air in a natural way. When creating the second, mechanical means are used. The advantages and disadvantages of these options will be discussed next.
Organization of natural ventilation of the cellar with two pipes
This system functions due to the difference in pressure when installing the inlet and outlet at different levels.
The picture shows the main limitations that should be considered when installing such a system. Below are some practical tips:
- If the supply pipe is installed near the ground, it is covered with a metal mesh from the penetration of rodents. When mounted on the roof, they are covered with a visor that prevents the ingress of precipitation.
- A distance of 20 to 50 cm is left between the lower end and the floor. It will be enough for the free passage of air.
- The entrance of the exhaust part is installed as high as possible to the ceiling. To remove condensate without complications, a special device with a valve at the bottom is fixed to it. If there is a sewer pipe nearby, make a stationary connection to the drainage system.
Note! To reduce the intensity of condensate formation, the insulation of the outlet duct is mounted on the entire channel.
The main advantage of this system is its autonomy, the complete absence of electricity consumption. Flaws:
- limited performance;
- dependence on weather conditions;
- difficulty or impossibility of adjustments.
The last "minus" is partially eliminated with the use of special dampers, which change the width of the working openings of the air ducts.
Forced system
The principle of this approach is clear from the name. Fans are used to move air through the channels. Turning them on and off can be organized as follows:
- From one or more temperature (humidity) sensors in the room.
- Using a timer that is set to the desired time intervals.
- From a local or remote control panel located in another room.
The mutual arrangement of pipes and other parameters will fit from the previous version. But the actual composition of a forced air system can be much more complex. It includes the following components:
To figure out exactly how to make a hood in the cellar, you need to know the features. In some situations, it is beneficial to combine systems into a single entity with common elements of control and management.
How to make ventilation in the cellar with your own hands
According to the following algorithm, you can implement such a project yourself:
- Create a plan. Strict engineering standards are not required. But it is useful to have a drawing with the location and dimensions of individual parts, a list of component parts.
- The room needs to be prepared. Eliminate insulation defects. With a deep foundation, they provide reliable protection against groundwater. Insulate external walls, ceiling and floor, roof.
- Pipes are installed according to the plan. Condensate drain valves, damper handles and other manually operated devices are placed in places convenient for subsequent maintenance.
Upon completion of the work, the tightness of the joints is controlled in the places where the air duct channels pass through the building structures, the functionality of the automation and control equipment is checked.
If there is no other possibility, install cellar ventilation with one pipe. The inflow is provided by existing or specially created slots, by opening doors and windows. Sometimes they install a structure of two pipes inserted one into the other. The central hole and the gap between the walls are used for air supply / removal.
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Selection of components and assemblies
If you figured out how to make a hood in the cellar, pay attention to the following nuances before buying individual system components:
- Metal ventilation pipes must be well protected against corrosion. Polymer analogues are not subject to destructive oxidation processes. To create natural ventilation, the diameter of the channels must be at least 120-130 mm for rooms with an area of 8-10 sq.m.
- It is better to purchase a complex deflector in the factory version. Some simple models you can try to do with your own hands.
- For installation in such a system, only special fans designed for the appropriate conditions of use are suitable.
Improving the efficiency of the ventilation system and general conclusions
The following tips will help to realize the project with minimal costs and reduce costs during the operation:
- In order not to make significant changes to the design, the installation of such systems must be combined with general construction work.
Purchasing different materials in one store will help you get additional discounts
- Even a very efficient ventilation system will not be able to perform its functions if there are sources of dampness in the room. Moisture ingress should be prevented by installing good waterproofing.
- In order to increase efficiency, it is useful to create high-quality thermal insulation.
Properly made hood in the cellar prevents the formation of condensate on the walls of the storage and protects the harvested crop from decay. The building materials market today offers a wide range of products for organizing air exchange systems. But, in fact, for the device of a simple cellar hood, nothing supernatural is needed. It can be done with your own hands and without extra financial costs. But first things first.
Why is ventilation needed?
Before talking about the extract from the cellar, it is necessary to correctly understand the requirements that are imposed on storage today. Only then can the issue of organizing the correct hood be considered.
The cellar is a small basement in which it is customary to store food, vegetables, and preservation. In a residential area, the temperature is too high for storing crops, and on the street, on the contrary, in winter it is too low. Vegetables and fruits should be stored at a temperature of +1 - +4 degrees. In addition, in order for the crop to lie long enough, it is necessary to control the humidity in the room.
The supply pipe should be 20-30 cm from the cellar floor.
Scheme of air exchange in the cellar.
Using the following devices, you can increase the efficiency of the hood in the basement:
- Deflector. It must be placed on a pipe above the roof. You can close the exhaust pipe with a metal cap with your own hands, which will prevent precipitation from entering. This cap is enclosed along its entire height by a wall in the form of a cylinder. This device is the deflector. In strong winds, negative pressure will be created under the cap, which will increase the efficiency of extracting from the basement.
- In addition, a metal grate must be made at the inlet of the supply pipe, which will prevent the penetration of rodents and insects into the cellar. This device will also provide additional protection for the basement.
Materials for ventilation pipes
The cellar hood, as it has already become clear, is not as difficult to do with your own hands as it seemed before. There are two main materials that are actively used today for the manufacture of exhaust pipes:
- low-pressure polyethylene;
- asbestos cement.
Asbestos-cement pipes in their appearance resemble slate, therefore, for simplicity, they are popularly called slate pipes. Both polyethylene and asbestos cement are characterized by a high level of durability, reliability and strength. Polyethylene pipes can be easily mounted with your own hands (the hood device in this case will be simpler).
Ventilation from asbestos-cement pipes.
However, when working with polyethylene, attention should be paid to the fact that in order to properly extract the cellar, it will be necessary to weld pipes, and not everyone will succeed the first time.
In any case, the choice of one or another material for the cellar extract device should take place in accordance with the specific requirements of the basement. If you find it difficult to choose, it is best to seek help from professionals.
An exhaust device for a basement or cellar, by and large, is possible from any type of pipe. For this, even used pipes of a suitable diameter can be used.
If your basement or cellar is small, then there is no need to make powerful and expensive forced ventilation, because even one supply and exhaust pipe can provide suitable temperature and humidity conditions for food storage.
Depending on the type and size of the room, as well as the climatic conditions in the region, the cellar hood device may have individual features. Each case will properly be considered separately.
Fans for forced draft
To organize a high-quality cellar hood, special fans are used. It is customary to separate axial and duct designs of fans, which differ slightly in principle of operation and location.
Duct fan and air duct.
A duct fan can be built into the middle of the exhaust and supply pipes with your own hands. Axial fans, on the contrary, are installed closer to the outlet. In addition, special “snail fans” can be found on the market, but their use is fraught with certain difficulties, so it is better to prefer a standard solution for a basement hood.
The outlet pipe of the ventilation system, which is responsible for the exhaust in the basement, must be equipped with a check valve that will prevent the flow of cold air into the room. You can install special plastic plugs with your own hands.
Installation of a duct fan.
The duct fan should not have too much performance, so it can be powered from a small power supply. It is better to choose an amplitude type device, because it will provide higher efficiency.
The correct extract from the cellar shows itself perfectly in the first month of operation. The air in the basement becomes humid, but not too much, the products do not freeze, the temperature is at the level of 1-4 degrees Celsius. As noted above, the device of such an extract is quite possible without the involvement of specialists and the use of some rare equipment and tools.