Method of installing plastic windows in a wooden house. Installation and installation of windows in a wooden house

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Inserting a plastic window into a wooden house is not as difficult as it might seem: if you know some of the technical details, even a non-professional will be able to do it. It must be remembered that wood is a special living material, and all work must be carried out taking into account the future shrinkage of the house. Therefore, the technology for installing a plastic window in this case will be slightly different from standard installation. Let's look at each stage in detail.

Creating and preparing a window opening

How to properly install a plastic window in a wooden house? The success of the work depends, first of all, on a well-prepared opening: most often in a wooden house it is cut after the frame has been assembled, but sometimes it is done during the construction stage. In the first case, you can proceed to the preparation of openings only after the completion of the main shrinkage, that is, a year and a half after construction. The contours of the hole are drawn using a plumb line and level, and then very carefully cut with a chainsaw.

It is advisable to apply the markings at the stage of assembling the house, so that there are no dowels in the openings. The calculation is made so that the upper and lower logs are cut in half: this will allow you to easily install the casing on flat horizontal surfaces. When preparing the opening, it is necessary to take into account the size of the casing. Therefore, the width should be 14 cm larger than the frame dimensions, at least 12–14 cm larger at the top, and 7 cm larger at the bottom for installing a window sill and a layer of polyurethane foam.

If the opening is prepared at the assembly stage, it should be 10% smaller in width than planned. This is necessary; after the logs dry, it will take on the specified value. If you immediately give it a standard size, after shrinking it will turn out to be larger than necessary.

Before inserting plastic windows into a wooden house, you should carefully treat all the end parts of the logs and cover them with an antiseptic to protect them from rotting. In addition, the wood needs to be sanded to ensure a smooth surface. Often it has to be leveled in height: wooden houses rarely remain perfectly level after shrinkage. To ensure the frame fits correctly, use a laser level and a plumb line to level the hole.

Casing installation

If you want to understand how to properly insert plastic windows into a log house, it is important to understand the installation of the casing. This design is also commonly called a window frame: it is designed to protect the window opening from the effects of shrinkage. The frame is an additional frame that is mounted to the end parts of the opening logs according to the sliding principle: the logs will gradually fall along it and will not cause harm to the frame.

To create a moving connection, several installation options are possible:

  • A rectangular groove 5 cm wide and deep is cut out in the end part of the logs and in the side parts of the casing. A block of the same size, wrapped in insulation, is inserted into it. When lowering, the logs will gradually slide along the block, the casing will remain in place, and the window blocks will not be damaged.
  • A groove 5 cm deep and wide is cut out of the logs, and a T-shaped structure of a timber frame is inserted into it. The tenon should fit tightly into the groove; to get rid of squeaking, it should be wrapped in insulation.
  • There is also a reverse option: a tenon is cut out in the logs of the opening, and a socket groove is mounted on it.

In all cases, the vertical elements are installed first, and the upper and lower horizontal boards are mounted to them. In some cases, the pigtail is installed without the lower part. A gap of approximately 7 cm is left above the top board: it will gradually decrease as the walls are lowered and will completely disappear after a few years. For a while it is filled with insulation so that the heat does not escape outside.

The casing box must not be installed on mounting foam; it must not be used to fill the upper gap. This is an inelastic material, it will not shrink, so the casing will simply lose its meaning and will sink along with the house itself, breaking the frames.

The pigtail, like other wooden elements, is treated with an antiseptic. After the protective layer has dried, it is ready to install the plastic block.

Design selection criteria

When deciding how to properly insert plastic windows into a wooden house made of timber or logs, you need to study the manufacturers' proposals. Plastic window systems are selected according to several parameters:

  1. The number of chambers in the profile determines the thermal efficiency. Manufacturers offer three-, four- and five-chamber profiles. A four-chamber will be quite sufficient for the conditions of the middle zone: thanks to the air layers, it will not freeze and will be quite durable.
  2. Type of glass unit. The more air chambers and sheets of glass it has, the more powerful a heat insulator it will be. However, three-chamber double-glazed windows are very expensive, they are heavy and require high-quality fittings.
  3. Type of fittings. You cannot save money by choosing a set of accessories. The performance of the handle, the ability to select operating modes, as well as the strength of the frame itself depend on it. If you choose a cheap option, very soon the window will begin to sag and will not close well.
  4. Manufacturer. The classic option, guaranteeing excellent quality, is the original German systems Rehau, KBE and others. However, their complete analogues are now being manufactured in Russia, which cost significantly less. In addition, we must remember that it is more profitable to purchase any products and designs directly from the manufacturer, in which case they cost a significantly lower amount.

In addition to the frames themselves, you need to purchase handles, ebbs, window sills, additional accessories, as well as trims that will cover the installation seam. Typically, installation companies offer a complete installation kit along with the window unit. It can be supplemented with anti-burglary fittings, special child locks, a “comb” for ventilation, etc.

Window sill installation

Dust and debris are removed from the opening with the casing already installed, and the surface is cleaned. After this, a window sill is installed: it is the base for the window, so it needs to be mounted as evenly and accurately as possible. To install it, you need to make 8 mm notches in the window frame; the window sill itself is attached to the bottom of the casing or the bottom log with self-tapping screws. It is advisable to place special washers under them so that the plastic does not begin to crack.

The window sill must be strictly horizontal, so after installation it is checked with a building level. If there are any deviations, plastic or wooden wedges are placed under it.

After installing the frame, the places where the screws are attached will be invisible; they will be completely hidden by the box. A window sill can be not only plastic: it can be made from natural or artificial stone, wood, and other materials.

Frame installation

How to properly install plastic windows in a wooden house? When all the preparatory work is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation of the window system. The protective film is not removed from it until the very end of the process, this is guaranteed to protect it from damage. A handle is pre-attached to the frame, as shown in the instructions supplied by the manufacturers; sashes with double-glazed windows can be removed during installation; working with an empty frame is much easier.

The step-by-step installation process is as follows:

  1. 4 holes are drilled in the side posts of the casing and in the side parts of the window for installing fasteners. The distance from the top and bottom edges to the hole should be 25–30 cm; this arrangement of fasteners will ensure even distribution of the load.
  2. The window frame is placed in the opening, after which it is leveled using a building level, a plumb line and spacer bars. When it takes a perfectly level position, it is attached to the casing using long self-tapping screws.
  3. Important! Self-tapping screws should not pass through the casing and screw into the wall. The block is attached exclusively to the casing, otherwise its installation will be useless, and the plastic block will suffer from shrinkage. The casing is connected to the house movably, and the logs will gradually take their places, while the window frame must be motionless.

  4. The doors with double-glazed windows are placed in the box. It is important to make sure that the frame is not skewed and that the doors open and close freely and clearly.
  5. After all checks, the spacer bars are removed, and the space between the casing and the box is filled with polyurethane foam. After drying, it will provide an airtight seal and will reliably protect your home from the cold.
  6. The last stage of the work is the installation of the drip tide: it will drain rainwater from the wall and prevent moisture from entering the house. The ebb is cut to the required size and attached using self-tapping screws. The seams filled with polyurethane foam are covered with decorative trims.

Knowing how to properly insert double-glazed windows in a wooden house, you can completely glaze the building without the help of specialists. If installed correctly, plastic window structures last a long time and perfectly protect the building from the cold, and this work is not so difficult to cope with.

The thickness of the polyurethane foam layer should be at least 2 cm; you cannot skimp on it. For greater reliability and tightness of the connection, the space under the window sill can be coated with a special silicone sealant. This is a good additional protection against blowing.

In any case, the polyurethane foam will have to be protected from sunlight: it is destroyed under the influence of ultraviolet rays. Carved trim or decorative shutters will help, which can become an important element of home decoration.

All installation work is recommended to be carried out at positive temperatures. Plastic changes its structure in severe frosts: at -10 and below, it becomes brittle and can very easily get damaged. To avoid unnecessary problems, choose the right time for installation.

Installation of plastic window blocks requires increased attention to the correct angles and compliance with vertical and horizontal lines. Even a slight misalignment can subsequently lead to increased load on the fittings, which will negatively affect the operation of the entire structure. If the doors are skewed, they will begin to creak and close poorly, and the hinges will quickly become unusable.

And once again: installing windows cannot be done immediately after building a wooden house, even if it is built from dried lumber. It will take at least six months for the logs to finally take their places, then the installation will be safe.

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You can find out detailed and expanded information on the topic of the article from the book “Wooden Houses,” which reflects all stages of building a house, from laying the foundation to installing the roof. Book price = 77 rubles.

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How to fix a window: overview of fastening hardware and photo report on the installation completed

Hello. In this article I will talk about how to fix plastic windows in a residential building with your own hands using available tools. I hope that this topic will be of interest to you, since installation skills can save money.

Despite the fact that for many manufacturers the price of windows includes the cost of installation, there are many companies where they will sell you double-glazed windows cheaper due to self-installation. The money savings are obvious!

Basic information about window installation

The installation of glazing in the opening differs depending on the type of profile used and depending on the type of walls. For example, installation in a stone, concrete or brick wall is carried out directly without any structures compensating for mechanical loads on the window.

At the same time, installation in a wooden house is carried out with the obligatory installation of a casing, which compensates for the loads due to shrinkage processes.

There are two main requirements for the installation of plastic double-glazed windows:

  • Strength and reliability of the installed glazing;
  • Correct location in level relative to the vertical and horizontal planes;
  • Properly sealed gaps around the perimeter of the opening to ensure optimal energy efficiency of the glazing.

Fastening elements for installing double-glazed windows in PVC profiles

Commonly used fasteners for plastic windows: a - frame dowel with a metal seal; b - frame dowel with plastic seal; c – universal plastic dowel; g – screw (self-tapping screw); d - anchor plate

Before moving on to the description of the installation, I suggest you find out what fasteners for PVC windows can be purchased at hardware stores. There are many fastenings and such a variety is not accidental, since each type is intended for one or another type of wall.

Window fasteners according to the type of walls are divided into the following categories:

  • for concrete walls;
  • for installation of brick walls;
  • for installation in aerated concrete walls;
  • for fastening to wood.

By the way, using the listed fasteners, a protective grill can be installed.

Fasteners for installation in concrete openings

Plastic double-glazed windows are installed in concrete openings using anchors or, as they are also called, frame dowels.

To securely fix a heavy window in a concrete opening, it is customary to use anchors with a diameter of 8 or 10 mm and a length of 72 to 202 mm. The length and diameter of the hardware are selected taking into account the density of the wall - the more porous the concrete, the longer and thicker the anchor.

No matter how long or thick the anchors are, the strength of the finished result will depend on how carefully the hole is drilled. If the walls of the hole are broken as a result of unprofessional drilling, even the most reliable fastening hardware will not provide the necessary installation strength.

Installation using anchors is carried out in two ways:

  1. A hole is drilled in the profile and the anchor enters the concrete directly through the profile;
  2. An anchor plate is attached to the profile and through the plate the window structure is fastened to the opening.

The first method is relevant if the technological gap between the profile and the gap is small. If the distance between the profile and the opening is more than 1 cm, you can use an anchor plate, since the fasteners can be covered during finishing if plastic slopes are used.

Anchor plates are metal strips of simple or complex configuration. Simple plates are ordinary strips with perforations. Along with such devices, there are “crabs” - plates that cut into the profile, thereby simplifying the finishing of slopes.

Fasteners for installation in brick walls

Fastening plastic windows in a brick opening is carried out in approximately the same way as in. But there is one problem: if for installation in concrete, holes for anchors in the profile can be drilled in advance, then in the case of brick walls, the holes are drilled locally, since you need to get into the center of the brick, and not into the masonry seam.

For installation in brick, the same frame dowel is used as for concrete walls, but with a length of at least 10 cm. A length of 10 cm is the minimum penetration into the brick at which you can be sure that the fastening will not become loose or weaken when operation.

If you are sure that the brick is not hollow, and today this is used extremely rarely, you can use dowels 6-8 cm long.

Fasteners for installation in wooden openings

The best option for installing windows in a wooden opening without casing is self-tapping screws in combination with anchor plates. This type of fastening is equally good for log, timber and frame buildings.

If a casing box is installed in the opening, installation can be done with screws directly through the profile. To install glazing in a wooden opening, I recommend using self-tapping screws at least 10 cm long with a diameter of 8 mm. We screw in the screws in increments of 30 cm.

Fasteners for installation in aerated concrete openings

Aerated concrete blocks are characterized by low density, and therefore for installation we select special dowels and install them with a small pitch between the screws.

The installation of glazing in aerated concrete walls requires detailed consideration, since an increasing number of houses are being built using such blocks. That is why, to familiarize yourself with the installation technology, I offer a short photo report of the installation work done.

Installation of a plastic window in walls made of aerated concrete blocks

To perform installation work you will need:

  • Perforated anchor plates (160×40 mm and 2 mm thick);
  • Plastic dowels (50×10 mm) for fastening into aerated concrete;
  • Universal metal self-tapping screws (60×6 mm);
  • Electric drill and drills in accordance with the diameter of the dowel;
  • Screwdriver with a set of bits;
  • Water level;
  • Tape measure and pencil.

The installation instructions are as follows:

  • If the perforation in the anchor plates does not correspond to the diameter of the dowels, we drill out the holes; if the diameter initially matches, we skip this stage and move on to the next one;

  • Along the perimeter of the profile, we screw the anchor plates onto self-tapping screws so that the holes drilled for the dowels are located on the outside;

In order for the frame to be securely fastened in the opening, we mount the anchor plates on 2 self-tapping screws, which will prevent them from turning. In addition, the installation step should not exceed 30-40 cm.

  • We install the frame in the opening on plastic inserts and position it level in the horizontal and vertical plane;

  • After the structure is aligned in the opening, we drill holes in the aerated concrete blocks in accordance with the perforations in the anchor plates;

To drill aerated concrete blocks, it is not necessary to use a drill with pobedit surfacing. Since aerated concrete is soft, it is quite possible to use the drill that was previously used to drill out the anchor plates. By the way, when drilling, we try not to jerk the drill from side to side, since breaking a hole in aerated concrete is as easy as shelling pears, and as a result, the dowel will not stay in the wall.

  • We screw dowels into the drilled holes;

  • We screw self-tapping screws into the screwed dowels;

After completing the installation work, we do not remove the liners from under the window, as they will provide additional stability to the structure.

  • Using a spray bottle, generously moisten the technological gap between the opening and the profile;
  • We fill the technological gap around the entire perimeter with mounting foam, so that the excess applied foam comes out from the outside and the gap is completely filled;
  • After the foam has dried, the excess is trimmed with a mounting knife on both sides of the profile.

By the way, how can you attach a thermometer to a window without needlessly making holes in the profile?

It turns out that there is nothing complicated, just buy a special thermometer with Velcro on the glass. Thermometers with ears and mounting holes should be mounted not on plastic, but on wooden frames. But, if you have a thermometer with holes for screws, fasten this device to the profile with short screws - this will not harm the profile.

In conclusion, I note that if you don’t know how to secure the handle to the profile, you can also use small self-tapping screws that will go through the PVC and be held in the metal.

Conclusion

Now you know how to install a PVC window block into an opening of walls of different composition. I hope that the instructions provided were helpful to you. If you have any questions, as usual, ask them in the comments to the text. Also, don't forget to watch the video in this article.

Plastic windows are used everywhere. They are replacing wooden structures due to a number of advantages, the main ones being reliable thermal insulation and the absence of wind blowing. Installing a window in a wooden house has the peculiarity that the structure is not rigid. Therefore, a special frame mount is made for it, protecting it from loads from the walls.

How to install a plastic window in a wooden house? To do this, you need to take the dimensions of the opening, dismantle the old structure, make and assemble a new box if the existing one does not fit. After this, you should insert new frames with double-glazed windows and a window sill, and then install slopes on the plastic windows.

Determining the dimensions of the opening

To take measurements, the trim is first removed. The plastic frame must fit into the opening inside the box. A gap of 2 cm should be left between them around the entire perimeter so that it can be filled with foam in the future. In addition, on top of the box you should leave an opening of 8 cm to the top log, which is necessary for shrinking the walls.

Tools and materials

Installation of slopes

When we install a plastic window ourselves, there is nothing easier to finish the slopes of a wooden house. To do this, you can use clapboard or block house, which fit well with the rest of the decoration of the room. They are nailed across to the frame, and the corners are sealed with a corner. Guides are installed for them on the side of the frame. Window openings can be finished with wooden panels that are glued to polyurethane foam.

To prevent the foam from pushing out the slope, it is secured to the wall with mounting tape (painting tape). After gluing, the fastening is removed, the protrusions are framed with a profile. Small installation defects can be eliminated using silicone sealant.

Low tide mount

The external tin plate is installed with a slope to remove sediment. Slopes are made and installed under it. The length of the ebb is selected with a margin of 3 cm on each side. When installed, the edges are folded upward. It is advisable to foam the ebb from below so that it does not rattle from wind and rain. You can also place an elastic backing underneath it.

Conclusion

By following all the rules and tips on how to install a plastic window in a wooden house, you can create comfortable conditions in it for many years.

The heat-protective properties of a double-glazed window are selected according to the table of coefficients of reduced heat transfer resistance.

Before installing a plastic window, you should ensure that it is independent of the walls moving when they dry out. For this purpose, a pigtail with the ability to slide relative to the logs is used.

Installing windows in a wooden house is easier than in brick or concrete buildings. This operation has a number of features, which we will discuss further.

Preparatory procedures are half the battle. A lot will depend on them.

Dismantling old frames

Before installing windows in a wooden house, it is necessary to dismantle the old ones. If your house is new and there are no double-glazed windows at all, you can skip this point. Most offices will charge 50% of the cost of new ones for dismantling old windows. Therefore, performing this procedure yourself is beneficial from an economic point of view. In addition, it does not require any special skills.

Tip: old frames can be used for greenhouses or outbuildings.

Armed with a puller, screwdriver and other tools, you will need to dismantle. We start with the doors: open them, remove them from their hinges and pull them out. Next, remove the frames, window sill and other elements.

Creating a simple casing

If we are talking about an old building and such elements already exist, you can skip this point. Before installing a window in a wooden house, you need to create a “casing”. A frame is a structure along the opening that saves frames from all kinds of damage. The timber (including round timber) begins to deform over time - this process is called shrinkage. So that it does not affect the new double-glazed window, this design is installed.

It is created as follows:

  • We cut out projections from medium-sized timber (3 pieces - for each side of the opening). They will be needed to create carriages (side elements). The outermost bars should be installed to a depth of 5 cm.
  • We create grooves at the ends of each element for secure fixation. To prevent them from creaking, we cover the structure with rolled tow. This measure will also increase the thermal insulation of the window.
  • We get a U-shaped structure. It needs to be mounted into the opening using large nails (200 mm) or special screws.

There are other options for creating a pigtail, but this one is the simplest.

We prepare tools and materials

We will need the following:

  • Powerful drill and screwdriver.
  • Level (preferably laser).
  • Chisel.
  • Roulette.
  • Gloves.
  • Polyurethane foam (or similar material).
  • Pliers.
  • Spacer bars (you can make your own).
  • Anchor plates.
  • Hexagon (it will be needed for final adjustment of the fittings).
  • Anchor screws.

Main scope of work

We move from preliminary procedures to the final stages.

Measurements and design

Self-installation of PVC windows in a wooden house begins with measurements. You will need to do the following:

  • Armed with a tape measure, measure all sides to the nearest millimeter.
  • We draw on paper a project for the future window, maintaining all proportions.
  • We mark the places of divisions, vents and other components that you want to see in your double-glazed window.
  • Having a ready-made plan in hand, you can contact a window manufacturing company.

Starting stage - window sill

Installation must begin with the window sill, since it is the foundation of the entire structure. We install it as follows:

  • Two grooves with a depth of no more than 10 cm are cut into the side of the box. This will allow the window sill to be securely fixed.
  • We apply it and, if necessary, level it with wooden plates prepared earlier.

Advice: if the window sill is mounted at the end, a gap will form that will need to be sealed regularly. Installing it under the frame increases the efficiency of the design.

  • Having achieved a level position, we fix the window sill using self-tapping screws. You need to place a rubber gasket under the cap - this will prevent possible cracking of the plastic.
  • We drill holes where the window sill will cover the frame. They need to be done at low speeds so as not to damage the plastic. If you use a powerful drill, it may begin to melt during drilling, so it is better to arm yourself with a screwdriver.
  • We adjust the position with a level. The window sill must be strictly horizontal!

Some manufacturers offer double-glazed windows without window sills (they are purchased separately and installed at the end). We recommend purchasing all items from one seller at once - it’s more reliable.

Preparing the ground for further work

Do not rush to remove the factory film - it will protect the structure from damage. We carry out the work in the following sequence:

  1. We take out the frames and install the handle. To do this, put it in a horizontal position, fix it with bolts and lower it down.
  2. We mark on the side posts the places for drilling the holes necessary for fixing the frames. The drill is 6 mm, respectively the self-tapping screw is 5 mm. On each side post you need to make 2 holes (4 in total). They should be located at a distance of 30-40 cm from the lower and upper ends of the beam.
  3. In order for the self-tapping screw to rest securely on the frame, it must be recessed. To do this, use a 10 mm drill to make holes up to the iron frame. The cap should fit freely into the cavity of the beam.

Installing PVC window

The time has come for the most important stage - installation of frames. We place the finished structure in the opening. We adjust the frames on both sides and control them using a tape measure and level. The distance from the sashes to the frame on both sides should be the same (within 1 cm). You also need to control the verticality of the installation. This can be done using a plumb line.

Having achieved a level position, we place a spacer block between the box and the frame. It will act as a stop during installation - without it, when screwing in the screws, the frame may move to the side. Having installed the bars, we once again carefully check the evenness of the location along the slope. After making sure that the window is perfectly horizontal (vertical), we secure the window with self-tapping screws. They should be located between the window and the frame.

This method of installing the box is highly reliable and mobile - if the wood is deformed, the frame will not warp. This is achieved due to the fact that the screws are able to move towards the skew.

  • We insert the adjusting plates between the drain holes (they are needed to drain condensate - without them the glass unit will inevitably fog up).
  • We insert a double-glazed window into the opening. It should not stand tightly - this is due to seasonal deformations of wood and other materials.

Important! If you find that there is no standard gap (5-7 mm), contact the manufacturer, as this is an obvious defect.

  • We install the glass unit evenly and fix it using glazing beads (they should be included in the kit) with profile spikes. You need to tap on them until a characteristic click appears, indicating correct insertion.
  • We fill all existing cracks with polyurethane foam. After 2-3 hours, cut off the excess with a knife.

This completes the installation of windows in a wooden house with your own hands.

A few words about cashing out

First of all, it is needed to increase insulating properties and hide flaws. It closes the foamed cracks, which completely prevents the possibility of cold air getting inside. There is a second function - aesthetic. Window casing in a wooden house frames the opening favorably, giving it an attractive appearance.

It can be made from various materials, most often plastic. These are ready-made structures that only need to be secured using self-tapping screws along the perimeter of the window. However, carved cashing is sometimes performed for wooden houses. It can be made to order or independently, if a person has carpentry skills. After installation, the cash is coated with an antiseptic and wood varnish - this will prolong its life.

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