Separate waste collection has been practiced in our family for more than one generation: all organic materials that can rot and serve for the benefit of the garden are stacked separately and then transferred to the compost heap.

Free and highly nutritious fertilizer is prepared for about 3 years, but there are ways to speed up this process, allowing you to reduce the ripening period to one year.

The correct compost, which will not harm plants and soil due to its high nitrogen content, is ready only 3 years after the final laying with a bunch of organic matter. Experienced gardeners organize boxes on their plots, divided into three sections, which alternately each season serve to accumulate "raw materials" for fertilizer.

Ready-made compost of the correct black color is stored in one compartment, fermentation processes take place in the other, and fresh weeds and organic waste are laid in the third.

The processes of fermentation of raw materials take place due to the activity of special microorganisms that decompose organic matter into simple elements. For the qualitative work of these bacteria, three main conditions must be met:

Moisture. Without moisture, no fermentation will occur, so the compost heap must be constantly spilled with water.
Air. Aerobic and anaerobic bacteria work on the decomposition of organic matter, the former do it faster. To speed up the compost maturation process, it is necessary to regularly dig up the heap, providing beneficial microorganisms with oxygen that is important for them.
Heat. Fermented raw materials must be kept warm. Previously, we covered the pile with a thick black film that kept moisture inside and, by absorbing the sun's rays, served as additional heating. Now we have comfortable boxes assembled from boards in our country house: the rotting masses themselves emit heat.

To prepare really useful compost, it is not enough just to stack organic waste in layers - you need to create comfortable conditions for microorganisms and regularly check the condition of future compost.

Particular attention is required to control the nitrogen content in the decaying masses: its excess, expressed in an unpleasant odor, will signal the imminent death of bacteria due to oxygen deficiency. To eliminate the surplus of nitrogen, you need to dig up the pile with a pitchfork and add a little straw to the mass.

"Manual" method

If you do not have the opportunity to wait 3 years for the compost, the process of its maturation can be accelerated, but this will require constant intervention in the fermentation processes:

try to grind all organic garden and household waste so that they rot faster;
constantly water the compost heap, keeping it moist throughout the warm season;
add fresh chopped weeds to the ripening compost as a "sourdough";
at least once a month, dig up a pile with a pitchfork or pierce it to the bottom with a stick, providing an influx of oxygen.

By taking part in the maturation of compost, you will thereby speed up the time for its readiness: it will be possible to use it not after 3 years, but after 2. Using this technique will help you save time and free space on the site that you have allocated for the collection and fermentation of organic waste .

Preparations

To speed up the process of making compost, gardeners have long practiced the use of microorganisms by pouring diluted yeast and fermented milk drinks over the masses. But today there are a lot of ready-made products on the market that contain selected strains of bacteria that serve to break down organic matter into simple elements:

lactic acid bacteria;
yeast;
actinomycetes;
photosynthetic bacteria;
fermenting mycobacteria.

Such a powerful complex of bacteria in favorable conditions begins to multiply rapidly and process organic matter. The work of microorganisms contributes to the elimination of pathogenic flora and helps to break down raw materials into microelements useful for cultivated plants.

The preparations should be diluted according to the instructions in warm water, and then insisted for a day. Experienced gardeners recommend adding sugar or jam to the solution to feed beneficial bacteria. Then the diluted preparation should shed the compost heap and subsequently maintain the optimal moisture content of the decaying mass.

The use of preparations with microorganisms allows you to reduce the compost preparation time to 3-4 months, that is, the organic matter that you collect during the summer will become a full-fledged fertilizer next year with the right approach.

Aerobic method

This method, based on the use of preparations, allows you to speed up the readiness of compost as much as possible:

In a shady place on the site, assemble the box, leaving small gaps of 3-4 cm between the boards.
Lay drainage at the bottom of the box: broken brick, stones, wood chips or sunflower stalks.
Pawn organic raw materials as you collect. When the fresh layer reaches a thickness of 20 cm, spill it with a solution of the drug.
Cover the compost heap with dark cling film or a wooden lid. As organic waste accumulates, a new layer should be well shed with a compost diluted according to the instructions and then maintain the optimum moisture content of the masses.

To ensure the flow of oxygen to aerobic bacteria, after each watering, it is recommended to pierce the decaying masses in several places to the very bottom. If the fermentation is accompanied by an unpleasant odor, the pile must be dug up with a pitchfork.

anaerobic method

This method of composting allows you to produce valuable fertilizer in 5 months. The principle of creation is the layer-by-layer laying out of organic waste and earth. Fermentation processes take place under anaerobic conditions - under a film or in a wooden box assembled without gaps.

The composting accelerator is applied once a month, and the rotting masses are constantly kept moist.

The aerobic method, although it takes more time (under the conditions of the middle lane, the ripening process will take not 5 months, but will affect half of the next summer), and also gives silo-like masses that are not very convenient to work with, but it allows you to get the most nutritious and useful fertilizer for plants which will undoubtedly please the crops in your garden.

You will learn more about methods for accelerating the maturation of compost from the following video:

Outcome

The composting process can be significantly reduced if you follow certain rules for working with organic matter:

grind organic waste and weeds;
ensure optimal moisture content of the decaying masses;
dig up future compost every month or pierce layered organic matter with a stick to ensure oxygen flow;
keep warm in the rotting compost by covering the wooden box with a lid or thick film;
use special preparations containing a complex of beneficial bacteria to accelerate the maturation of compost.

By following these recommendations, you can reduce the compost maturation time to 2 years, and using solutions saturated with microorganisms - up to 3 months. This will allow you to save usable space on your site and use the prepared natural fertilizer for the next year.

Any garden or garden soil needs regular feeding. Own compost provides plant nutrition with environmentally friendly organic fertilizer that does not require costs. Special knowledge and skills for harvesting humus are not required, and the benefits for the garden are very tangible.

Homemade compost is an excellent source of organic nutrients. Compost is a product of the processing of organic material (waste) under the influence of a specific microclimate and microorganisms.

Many gardeners prefer to prepare the compost themselves, as this not only saves time and money, but also reduces the amount of hassle, which is always enough on the site. In order to understand from what and how to make fertilizer correctly, it is important to understand how the procedure for its formation takes place. In fact, composting is a natural process of decomposition of organic waste. In the process of fermentation, a fertile loose composition is obtained, which is suitable for any soil. The most common way to make compost with your own hands is to collect leftovers from the kitchen and organic garbage in one pile. After that, bacteria begin to work, which will process "yesterday's" borscht and fallen leaves into humus. As a rule, you can prepare compost in different ways, however, the whole process comes down to using the aerobic or anaerobic method.

Self-made humus is more profitable and healthier than a purchased mixture of unknown ingredients and brings a lot of benefits.

What is the benefit of making compost in the country?

Compost is considered one of the best fertilizers, which, when applied to the soil, fills it with a huge amount of trace elements.

Compost is the cheapest and most practical means for proper soil structuring, as it increases moisture conservation and creates loosening necessary for all plants.

Spreading compost over the surface of the soil can create the best organic mulch that will conserve moisture and inhibit the growth of many weeds in the area.

Composting in a summer cottage is a very useful process, as well as a significant contribution to the development and environmental protection. Not a single mineral fertilizer can be compared with high-quality compost, and a properly formed pit in which organic components rot can become a real incubator for beneficial bacteria and microorganisms.

Composting significantly reduces your physical effort, since now you do not need to take out a good part of the garbage from the territory of your summer cottage, everything can simply be placed in a special pit.

The use of a compost pit reduces the time and effort to remove a large part of the garbage (tops, plants, wood waste, etc.) from the summer cottage
Compost is an affordable means to improve the physical properties of the soil (structuring), as well as organic fertilizer
The uniform distribution of humus on the surface of the garden ensures moisture retention and inhibits the growth of weeds
The preparation of humus in the country is a natural process in which organic waste is disposed of, fertilizer is prepared and the environment is not harmed

What can be put in compost?

cut grass;
foliage that falls in autumn;
droppings of cattle and birds;
peat residues;
tea leaves and coffee;
egg shells, provided that they have not undergone heat treatment;
peel and remains of raw vegetables and fruits;
thin branches;
straw, sawdust and shells from seeds;
shredded paper or cardboard.

What not to put in compost:

vegetable peel after boiling or frying;
diseased leaves and branches;
weed plants;
citrus peel;

Thus, compost waste is divided into two types: nitrogenous (manure and bird droppings, grass, raw vegetables and fruits) and carbonaceous (fallen leaves, sawdust, finely shredded paper or cardboard).

When preparing your own compost heap, it is important to stick to a 5:1 ratio, i.e. most of it consists of brown components, which are the basis for feeding beneficial bacteria. One part of the pile is green waste. To speed up the process, shredded paper, corn and sunflower shoots, sawdust, dry leaves and grass are used as brown components.

Green components are essential for beneficial microbes, and they decompose quickly. The lack of green part can lead to a lengthening of the time required for composting. If you go too far with the green part, then the pile will smell unpleasantly of ammonia (rotten eggs). The remains of meat and fish products should not be included in the compost in the country, as they take longer to decompose, and there will be an unpleasant smell around.

How to do

The balance of the components is the golden rule at the stage when you are already ready to make garden "gold" in the country with your own hands. A properly stacked pile emits the smell of fertile soil, but if you hear an unpleasant smell, then you need to add brown residues. In order for the process of processing residues to start, the temperature in the center of the pile must reach 60-70 degrees. It should feel warm from it, but if it seems cool to the touch, then you need to add greenery.

The second important rule of a compost heap is constant moisture. It should be like a damp "rug", but not wet. If you notice that a crust is forming, then you need to add a little water. The aerobic composting process requires a constant supply of oxygen, so the pile must be turned frequently. The more often you turn the compost, the faster the finished fertilizer will ripen. You can properly prepare compost in the country in a fast and slow way. Beginning summer residents usually use the first option.

This requires a special box made of wood or plastic, where all the components will be laid. If there is no box, then you can use a pit with wooden logs.

The main thing is that oxygen can freely flow from above and to the side to the contents. Laying components in layers or at random is up to you.

Consider the option of laying a compost pit in layers:

Rigid materials should be well crushed, while soft materials, such as grass clippings, should be mixed with harder waste. These activities will achieve the optimal degree of looseness of the compost mass.
During the formation of the heap, the thickness of the layer of stacked waste should be 15 cm.
In the course of work, care must be taken not to form thick layers. Since in this case compaction will occur, which in turn will make the material impervious to moisture and air.
Dry raw materials in the preparation of compost should be slightly moistened, but not poured abundantly.
The size of the heap itself has a significant impact on maintaining optimal moisture and temperature indicators in the compost heap. In order for the pile to meet all the necessary requirements, its height should be from 1.2 to 1.5 m, and its length should also be 1.5 m.
Each layer must be sprinkled with lime. When forming a pile of 1.2x1.2 m of this substance, 700 g will be required. In addition to lime, components such as ammonium sulfate and superphosphate will also be needed - 300 g and 150 g, respectively.
An alternative to ammonium sulfate can be bird droppings (4.5 kg of droppings equates to 450 g of ammonium sulfate). When applying these additives, before laying each layer of waste, the soil layer must be loosened by about 1 cm. If desired, a small amount of lime can be replaced with wood ash. This will help to saturate the heap with potassium and reduce its acidity. To improve the quality of the compost and accelerate its maturation, you can water it with liquid manure.
Thus, by adding layers of waste, lime, superphosphate, ammonium sulfate and soil, the pile must be brought to a height of 1.2 m. When the required dimensions are reached, the pile should be covered with soil with a layer of up to 5 cm. her from the rain. To do this, you can use a film, a sheet of plastic or other material. The compost mass must be maintained in a damp state, watering it periodically with water.

Four stages of compost maturation

The first stage is decomposition and fermentation. Its duration is from 3 to 7 days. At this stage, the temperature in the heap increases significantly and reaches 68 °C.
In the second stage, called restructuring, the temperature drops. The reproduction of fungi and the formation of gases also enter the active phase. These processes take place over two weeks.
The third stage is characterized by the formation of new structures. After lowering the temperature level to 20 ° C, worms appear in the mass. The result of their presence is the mixing of mineral and organic substances. As a result of the vital activity of these organisms, humus is formed.
The last fourth stage of maturation begins at the moment when the temperature level of the compost is compared with a given environmental indicator.

Adding an activator - BIOTEL-compost.

Due to the composition of natural microorganisms, the process of compost maturation is effectively accelerated. Processes grass, leaves, food waste into a unique organic fertilizer. The composition is safe for humans, animals and the environment.

Mode of application:

Dilute 2.5 g of the drug (1/2 teaspoon) in 10 liters of water in a watering can and stir until the powder is completely dissolved.

10 liters of the resulting solution are calculated for 50 liters of waste.

Pour the solution over fresh waste and mix thoroughly with a fork.
Turn and mix the compost periodically for better air access.
When the compost heap or bin is full, allow the contents to mature for 6-8 weeks for fertilizer.

As winter approaches, re-treat the contents of an unfilled compost heap or bin, mix, and let mature until spring. 1 pack is for 3000 l. (3 m³) processed waste. Opened packaging should be stored closed in a cool dry place for no more than 6 months.

Compound: bacterial-enzymatic composition, baking powder, moisture absorber, sugar.

Precautionary measures: The product contains exclusively natural bacterial cultures. Wash your hands after use. Do not store the product near drinking water or food.

Compost application

The use of mature compost, if all processes have been done correctly, is already possible after 6-8 weeks. The substance should be crumbly, slightly wet and dark brown in color. If the mixture smells like earth, then the compost is ready. It is possible to prepare and apply fertilizer throughout the year for almost all crops. It is used when planting trees, shrubs and perennials. A little compost does not fit when planting vegetables in the hole.

Compost can be used as fertilizer, biofuel and mulch. As a fertilizer, compost mass is suitable for any plant crops. That is, creating a protective layer for the soil under trees or plants from drying out, weathering, washing out and enriching it with organic substances, which positively affects the development of the root system. In this case, you need to take into account the fact that not completely decomposed compost may contain weed seeds. Therefore, only well-ripened mass should be used.

As a rule, it is embedded in the soil in the autumn and winter, but it is allowed to be introduced into the soil at any other time. The rate of this fertilizer is 5 kg / m 2. The mass is covered with a rake during cultivation.

Compost should not be used as seedling soil, as it contains a high concentration of nutrients. For this purpose, the mass is mixed with sand or earth. Also, this fertilizer is a good biological fuel for greenhouses in which seedlings are grown and plants are maintained.

A thin layer on the surface of the lawn will be an excellent stimulant for the growth of juicy and dense grass, and making compost with your own hands is not difficult at all.

Chapter 2. Compost

Composting has been known for a long time and has been used by gardeners since time immemorial. However, with the spread in the XIX century. artificial mineral fertilizers compost was undeservedly forgotten. Recently, there has been a kind of revival of organic farming, taking into account all the achievements of modern science and technology. Particular attention is paid to the condition of the soil. Experienced farmers know that if the soil is healthy and well fertilized, then the yield will increase year after year.

The task of organic farming, in contrast to farming, which widely uses modern achievements in technology and chemical experiments, striving to obtain the largest possible number of products with minimal labor costs, is to obtain high-grade food. An important role in this is given to the use of compost.

The chemical and microbiological processes that occur during composting have long been thoroughly studied, but the intuitive approach used by ancient farmers is still relevant. However, the composting process is based on proven general principles, which will be discussed later.

The concept of compost, its composition

The concept of "compost" comes from the Latin word "compositus" - "orderly composed" and refers to an organic fertilizer from a mixture of a wide variety of substances of plant, animal and mineral origin, obtained as a result of decomposition under the influence of the vital activity of microorganisms. The use of compost is the return of organic substances to nature, which contributes to their continuous circulation.

It is well known that plants get their nutrition from soil moisture, and yields are higher on those soils that do not give up moisture too quickly. The use of compost in agriculture and horticulture to increase yields is justified by its ability to retain moisture in the soil and prevent it from drying out quickly.

Outwardly, compost is a moist dark brown crumbly material resembling rotted manure both in appearance and composition, and is a valuable source of organic and plant nutrients (Fig. 39).

Rice. 39. Compost.

In terms of its agrochemical properties, compost is not only not inferior to traditional organic fertilizers, peat and manure, but also surpasses them in the content of microelements.

Manure is the main organic fertilizer, but most farmers prefer not to use fresh manure for plant nutrition. The effect of manure on crops, due to saturation with nitrogen compounds, is similar to the effect of many soluble mineral fertilizers. This is manifested in the increased growth of leaves and stems of plants fertilized with fresh manure, which does not always mean an increase in yield, on the contrary, such plants lose their immunity to diseases and pests.

The use of manure increases the ammonia content in the soil, which can lead to burns of plant roots.

So, for example, no tuberous crops and root crops can be planted in soil fertilized with fresh manure. In addition, manure quickly decomposes and does not contribute to increasing soil fertility. The nutrient content in manure is low and is 0.5% nitrogen, 0.25% phosphoric acid, 0.6% potassium, 0.32% calcium. Manure enriches the soil mainly with humus, or humus. Usually, manure is recommended to be composted, and only then used.

Bird droppings are also a good organic fertilizer, but due to the high concentration, they can have a negative effect on the soil and plants. It is not recommended to apply it directly to the soil, but by adding its solution to the compost, you can get a very valuable fertilizer in terms of its nutritional properties.

The composition of the compost may include, in addition to manure and bird droppings, peat, sewage sludge, household and industrial waste containing organic substances, as well as mineral components. Often it is compost that is the main fertilizer in a summer cottage.

Very cheap and accessible materials containing organic substances are used to prepare compost: vegetable and animal waste from the kitchen, weeds, mowed grass, vegetable and fruit peelings, wilted flowers, tops of tubers and root crops, household and city garbage, spoiled feed, needles , peat, pond sludge, ash, paper, feces, etc. All degradable organic materials are suitable here. It is important to combine fast-decomposing and long-decomposing components.

In rural areas, hoof clippings, horns, and other horn waste from domestic animals are added to the compost. Such wastes are rich in significant nitrogen content. Before adding to the compost, they must first be soaked in water and left to ferment in the sun for 3-5 weeks. The resulting liquid is recommended to water the compost heap to prevent it from drying out. You can add them directly to the compost, but keep in mind that they rot for a long time.

It is good to add sawdust to the compost, despite the fact that they contain few nutrients and are difficult to decompose. Their value lies in the fact that they help maintain looseness, as well as absorb and retain the necessary amount of moisture. To accelerate the decomposition of sawdust and other substances containing a lot of fiber and little nitrogen, such as straw, shavings, needles, it is recommended to add nitrogen-rich waste to compost heaps - slurry, chicken manure, etc.

It is also undesirable to use potato tops infected with late blight, the remains of vegetables infected with fungal diseases, such as sauerkraut, and downy mildew, to form a compost heap, since the spores of the pathogens of these diseases do not rot in the compost and retain their vital activity. Such residues are best burned and added to the compost in the form of ash. If it is not possible to burn such residues, then it is recommended to bury them to a greater depth in order to prevent their appearance on the surface.

On the other hand, the causative agents of viral and bacterial diseases often die in the compost, so the remains of such infected plants can sometimes be added to the compost. Inseminated weed plants are usually composted in a separate heap, shifting it at least 4 times during the summer. At the same time, germinating weed seeds, falling into the inner layers, will die. Weeds growing on a pile should be cut with a chopper. Once the weeds have stopped sprouting, the compost can be used.

One of the components necessary for obtaining organic fertilizer is land, especially rich in organic matter and nitrogen, for example, marshy, peat, moss, etc. Clay or loamy soil is an excellent source material for obtaining humus, organomineral complexes.

To accelerate maturation and improve the nutritional composition, a small amount of lime and inorganic (mineral) fertilizers are also added to the compost.

Lime contributes to the acceleration of the process of decay and decomposition of organic substances included in the compost, as well as to the reduction of acidity in the compost heap, which, however, can cause nitrogen loss, therefore, compost containing lime materials must be carefully sprinkled with earth.

Instead of lime, wood or peat ash can be used to neutralize acids that delay the ripening of compost. Wood ash can be added to compost with a small admixture of lignite ash. Many free acids are formed during the decomposition of sawdust, shavings, needles, tree leaves.

The transformation of substances into compost occurs under the influence of microorganisms that multiply in large numbers. The processes occurring in the compost heap are similar to those occurring in the soil, but are more active.

Compost is used in agriculture as an organic fertilizer for tilled crops (vegetables, fodder root crops, potatoes, corn, sunflower, etc.), winter grains and in landscape gardening. In addition, it is used for the restoration of cultivated hay meadows and pastures, as well as for the reclamation of disturbed lands, the restoration of fertility and the primary cultivation of reclaimed lands. The role of compost as a biofuel in greenhouse farms is great. Compost is also used as an insulating soil for landfill reclamation.

Compost is not only a source of humus, but also a carrier of life: earthworms live in it, and a diverse microflora develops.

The special value of compost is that it contains substances in the most favorable form for plant nutrition. Any dose of compost can be optimal, there is never too much of it.

Compost, prepared according to all the rules, taking into account all the wishes and recommendations, which will be discussed later, is a universal fertilizer containing all the necessary substances for any agricultural or horticultural crop.

The water-retaining property of compost helps to increase yields and improve soil fertility, as soils that can retain moisture tend to have higher yields.

Good physical and mechanical properties of compost are manifested in its flowability, transportability, non-stickiness to parts of agricultural machines and implements.

The most active composting process takes place at positive ambient temperature, optimal humidity conditions and a high degree of interaction with air, especially at the initial stage. In winter, when the compost mass freezes, the activity of microorganisms practically stops. After thawing in the spring, the compost mixtures are mixed, which contributes to the biothermal process.

The ratio of nitrogen and carbon affects the intensity of composting. An excess carbon content slows down the decomposition of organic matter, and an excess of nitrogen contributes to the loss of ammonia compounds of this element. It is possible to accelerate the process of decomposition of organic matter and at the same time reduce the loss of ammonia nitrogen by adding phosphate rock, phosphogypsum, potassium salt, and lime materials to the compost. For these purposes, bacterial fertilizers are also added: azotobacterin and phosphorobacterin.

At ambient temperatures above zero, the composting process lasts from 1 to 4 months. Municipal and household waste can rot in 15 to 18 months.

There are many ways of composting, differing in the composition of organic material and preparation time. Most often, the cold method of composting is used, but the quality of the resulting compost practically does not differ from that prepared by the hot method. Properly prepared compost contains all the substances necessary for plants and therefore is a universal fertilizer for all crops.

Ready-to-soil compost has a finely cloddy structure, has no unpleasant odor and has a much smaller volume compared to the original materials.

Compost should be applied to all types of soil in a fallow, under fall plowing and spring plowing, in holes for feeding seedlings and in pits when planting trees and shrubs.

Compost heap preparation

The preparation of high-quality compost that increases yields by several times requires a serious approach when following all the recommendations and a lot of patience. Forming a compost heap (Figure 40) has a number of advantages over directly burying waste in the soil. In rainy weather, the pit can be flooded, nutrients can be washed out. If the pit is flooded with water and there is no air supply, the microorganisms that contribute to decay do not multiply, but on the contrary, microbes become active, leading to fermentation and fermentation of the compost, which becomes useless and even harmful to plants. In addition, loosening and excavating the finished compost from a heap is easier than from a pit.

Rice. 40. Compost heaps in the garden.

Before laying a compost heap, you need to make sure that there is no shortage of raw materials. For faster decomposition, the components should be pre-crushed.

It must be remembered that it is necessary to mix “brown” materials, that is, dry, woody (sawdust, small twigs, dry pine needles, fallen leaves, etc.), with “green” - wet, vegetable (tea bags, citrus peel, coffee residues, grass and weeds, fruit and vegetable cuttings, etc.).

It is necessary to arrange a compost heap so that it is easy to maintain water and air balance. To do this, from time to time it is necessary to evenly mix the fertilizer components, it is enough to shovel a pile 1-2 times a summer, that is, to transfer the composted mass with a shovel from one place to another - nearby. In hot and dry weather, compost heaps need to be watered from time to time.

Location and shape of the compost heap

The first step in laying a compost heap is choosing its location. It should not be a random heap of garden trash and waste in the farthest nook of the site. The compost site is best placed in a dry, well-ventilated area.

It is important that the water source is easily accessible. It is not recommended to leave the compost heap in direct sunlight. A hedge is often planted nearby to provide shade. Elderberry is well suited for this, which contributes to a significant absorption and evaporation of water and around the roots of which humus forms. Sunflowers or pumpkins are also used to shade the soil (Fig. 41).

Rice. 41. The correct location of plants near the compost heap.

Sunflowers give a good shade if the compost heap is densely planted with them in a circle. It is not recommended to plant plants on the heap itself. Pumpkin, for example, can consume large amounts of nutrients, extracting them from the compost and thereby depleting it. Therefore, pumpkin crops should not be planted on the compost heap itself, but around it, after which the growing lashes should be laid across the heap so that the shadow is formed from wide leaves. If new roots appear on the lashes, they must be cut off in a timely manner.

Rice. 42. Compost pile surrounded by a small earthen rampart.

For a compost heap, it is recommended to build a box of a square shape, the back and side walls of which can be made of brick, concrete, iron, slate or boards, but at the same time do not prevent excess water from flowing out from below. The front wall may be missing, or it is usually made removable or collapsible to make it easier to load and unload the compost. Usually, the side walls taper upward, and the pile in cross section is a trapezoid.

To protect against rain, it is necessary to place some kind of cover on top that directs water flows outside the walls of the pile. Otherwise, leaching of nutrients may occur. Usually, for such purposes, a sheet of plastic, slate or roofing material is used. This will also prevent excessive evaporation of moisture.

On the farm, if the place and amount of waste allow, you can place not 1, but 3 heaps. One of them may be ready for use, the second is ripening, and the third is in the bookmarking stage. This will allow continuous compost production.

If there is no need to use ready-made compost, you need to properly cover the pile and leave it to wait for its time.

The nutritional properties of compost are preserved for a long time. After the introduction of compost into the soil, decomposition processes can continue, which has a beneficial effect on the soil.

Sometimes it is not possible to form a compost heap of optimal size due to insufficient amount of waste or the small size of the site. Then, baskets or other portable containers are used to prepare the fertilizer, which also protect the compost in the initial stage of preparation from rodents.

Forming the layers of the compost heap

It is best to start laying the heap after rain, when both the earth and other components of the compost will be well saturated with rainwater.

The first layer of the compost heap is a bedding of earth or peat with a layer of 7-8 cm. After it, a layer of rapidly decomposing material is applied: leaves, grass or straw up to 15 cm thick, which will separate the compost from the soil so that it can be easily removed or mixed. It is recommended to trample the layer with your feet and moisten it well, then evenly distribute manure, ash or debris with a layer of 30 cm and cover it with a thick layer of loose, stone-free earth. Further, the layers are repeated in the same order until the height of the pile reaches 1.2–1.5 m.

The number of layers may vary depending on the height of the pile. Thick layers of freshly cut grass or green leaves are not recommended, as this will make it difficult for air and moisture, necessary for the life of microorganisms, to penetrate into the deeper layers. Over the summer, a pile can settle by about 1/3.

You can sprinkle each layer with minerals: lime, superphosphate or phosphorite, ammonium sulfate, etc. Instead of lime, you can use wood ash - this will reduce the acid content in the pile and enrich it with potassium. Ammonium sulfate can successfully replace bird droppings.

To enrich the compost with mineral elements, it is not necessary to buy ready-made fertilizers. Many plants have the ability to accumulate certain elements. Comfrey, tobacco leaves and stems, and common straw are rich in potassium. Calcium contains buckwheat and melon leaves. There is a lot of iron in nettle, and phosphorus is able to accumulate mustard and rapeseed leaves.

Minerals have a huge impact on the growth and development of crops. Potassium helps to increase the resistance of plants to diseases, as well as increase their resistance to temperature extremes. It also has a beneficial effect on the root system.

Calcium is used to neutralize the soil, regulate the acid-base balance in it and water consumption by the plant.

Phosphorus affects the formation of buds in plants. Its deficiency is usually indicated by the pale color of the leaves and flowers. An essential element for the maturation of plants is also magnesium, which is responsible for the formation of chlorophyll in the leaves of the plant.

With a lack of sodium in the nutrition of plants, the leaves become brittle, dull, lose their elasticity, and brown spots appear on them. Lack of iron or manganese causes chlorosis, a leaf disease in which they turn yellow or white.

By fertilizing the soil with compost, the level of these elements in the soil can be significantly increased, which will favorably affect the yield. Ready compost contains, as a rule, 1–1.2% calcium, 2% magnesium, 0.3–0.8% potassium, 0.1–0.8% phosphorus, etc.

Many farmers add stinging nettle to the compost, which increases plant resistance to diseases, dandelion, which contributes to the formation of neutral humus in the soil, as well as chamomile, valerian, yarrow, and other herbs that have a beneficial effect on the soil.

The more diverse the layered organic materials, the better and faster the decomposition process in the compost heap. Plant residues rich in carbon are recommended to be combined with nitrogen-rich substances, such as manure. In a pile made of only organic material, the composting process may not start at all.

The optimal quantitative ratio of components contributes to the correct and rapid process of compost fermentation. The traditional composting method provides for this proportion: 1 part of nitrogen accounts for 30 parts of carbon.

If more nitrogen is taken than necessary, then the composting process will begin more actively, but the release of a large amount of ammonia can kill the microorganisms involved in the decomposition of substances. Chicken manure, which releases a large amount of nitrogen, makes the compost much heavier, which becomes sticky and poorly ventilated. The formation of ammonia nitrogen or free ammonia is possible, which is harmful both to plants and to the soil.

Nitrogen deficiency, which manifests itself in insufficient activity of decomposition processes, has much less consequences for the quality of the compost. However, in the hot composting process, the ratio of 30:1 is ineffective.

The top layer to retain moisture is laid earth. The thickness of the layer is usually no more than 5 cm. Some farmers use a 15 cm layer of dry grass for the same purpose.

The finished pile should consist of 70% plant residues, 20% manure, 10% soil and be evenly moistened, resembling a wrung out sponge: moist to the touch, but when wrung out, water does not drip.

The compost heap should not be too loose, otherwise there is a danger of its rapid drying out, loss of heat and ammonia fumes. It is also not recommended to make very dense layers that will restrict the flow of air and moisture.

To improve the flow of air and speed up the process of decomposition in large piles, holes are made to the bottom with the help of scrap or thick branches, which are inserted at a certain distance from each other during the laying of the heap and then removed.

Compost maturation

In the finished compost heap, an intensive decomposition process takes place, at the initial stage accompanied by a strong increase in temperature - up to 50–60 °C. Then the temperature gradually decreases, although it remains higher than in the environment.

The composting process is much slower in large piles, and there is no temperature increase, but this does not affect the quality of the compost. But excessive heating of the heap should not be allowed. To control this process, you can stick a stick in and, periodically taking it out and feeling it, in this way check the temperature in the heap. You can deal with strong heat by turning the pile. The more often it is mixed, the sooner the compost will ripen, while the outer, less decomposed substances will be in the center of decay.

It is usually necessary to turn the pile for the first time a few weeks after it has cooled. To do this, the area next to it is cleared and with the help of a pitchfork or a shovel, the entire mass is thrown to a new place (Fig. 43). A new pile should be left for a month, falling asleep again with a layer of earth or grass.

Rice. 43. Next to the pile, you need to leave a free place in advance, where the ripening compost is thrown during shoveling.

Liquid and gaseous decomposition products formed during the decay of organic matter and some water-soluble salts tend to be washed out of the compost. To prevent this process, earth or peat is laid in the compost.

The next step is to control the drying of the heap. Keep the compost moist, adding water as needed. If drying is too fast, water must be added more frequently. The optimum moisture content of the compost mass should be at least 68-75%. In rainy or cold summers, there is a risk of over-wetting the compost, which can adversely affect its quality.

Moisturizing the compost heap is one of the most crucial moments in the preparation of compost. The quality of compost directly depends on the ratio of water and air involved in composting.

You can determine whether the pile needs to be watered while mixing the compost masses (Fig. 44). You should not focus on the surface layer, since in summer it, as a rule, dries up a lot. It is not recommended to limit yourself to only surface watering of the heap, since you need to moisten the entire mass of compost, for this watering should be combined with mixing the heap.

Rice. 44. Layers of a maturing heap: 1 - mature compost; 2 - ripening; 3 - covering.

After a month, it is recommended to turn the pile over again, returning it to its original place. In the following months of fertilizer ripening, it is recommended to periodically, 1 time in 3 weeks, mix the compost heap, adding soil, water and new organic materials to it. For a small, well-made pile containing easily degradable materials, it is sufficient to mix no more than once every 6 weeks.

The processes that occur in the compost heap during the fermentation of organic substances are due to the activity of microorganisms. The initial stage of maturation of the compost mass is associated with the work of microbes that live at normal temperatures. After the heap is formed and moistened, these organisms begin to intensively feed and multiply, which causes the release of thermal energy and an increase in the temperature of the compost. Excessive ventilation of the heap contributes to the loss of this energy and slowing down the composting process. Proper heap formation eliminates this problem, however, oxygen supply is still necessary, otherwise compost fermentation may occur. With a high density of compost layers in a heap, for a better supply of oxygen, the mass is periodically mixed.

Earthworms take part in the composting process, stimulating the activity of mesophiles and fungi. Thermophilic bacteria play an important role in the active phase of composting. An important role in composting is played by the activity of the microflora of earthworm waste products, as well as the emergence of certain communities of microbes in it. In addition, earthworms, feeding on compost and humus, permeate the soil in countless passages, providing unhindered access of oxygen to the roots of plants.

It is known that microbial communities are able to decompose 92 different carbon compounds. Many types of microbes can process only some of these compounds, such as simple sugar. More complex complex compounds can decompose only some of them.

Earthworms are able to pass soil and organic matter residues through the intestines, thereby creating a very valuable substance - vermicompost. In terms of nutritional qualities and biological activity, it is much more valuable than worm-free compost. The concentration of nutrients in biohumus is much higher than in ordinary compost. It is important to remember that earthworms are afraid of dryness, soil acidity, excess salts and lack of organic matter, therefore, in order to obtain better compost, these phenomena should be prevented. Then the worms will multiply themselves.

In summer, the composting process proceeds quickly: 2–3 months after laying, the compost is ready. In colder weather, this takes 4–5 months. In winter, microorganisms practically do not multiply, and the ripening period of the fertilizer is significantly increased.

During the composting process, some difficulties may arise that must be dealt with in a timely manner. Most often, the problem occurs when the composting process does not occur.

This is due to the lack of water - in this case, the pile should be moistened and new waste added if possible.

The process can also be inhibited in case of excess moisture, then it is recommended to add dry grass, sawdust and other moisture-absorbing materials.

If the compost heap smells rotten and attracts insects, it could mean excess food waste. It is recommended to add more green materials, earth, sawdust, and also cover the pile with foil or mulching materials. Another reason for this phenomenon may be a slowdown in the composting process due to an excess of hard-to-decompose components that need to be removed from the heap.

During the initial stages of composting, rodents can settle in heaps or baskets. To avoid this, it is necessary to use baskets with smaller openings and put food waste deeper, covering it with earth and green materials.

Ready-to-use compost is a loose, free-flowing mass of dark brown color with a pleasant earthy smell. In this case, all the materials used in its preparation, as a rule, completely decompose.

Temperature zones of the compost heap

The role of temperature at the initial stage of composting is very high. The heap that has begun to ripen consists of 4 temperature zones (Fig. 45).

Rice. 45. Temperature zones: 1 - the first; 2 - second; 3 - third; 4 - fourth.

The surface of the heap constitutes the first temperature zone, the thickness of which depends on the stacking density and moisture content of the compost. Its temperature differs little from the ambient temperature and is usually less than 30 °C. Composting processes in this zone proceed poorly.

In the second zone, the temperature ranges from 30 to 50 °C, composting here is more intensive than in the first zone, but also not enough to obtain high-quality compost. The second zone is important in that the assimilation and release from ammonia, which is undesirable for plants and soil, takes place here. The thickness of this zone can be either a few centimeters or occupy the entire volume of the compost heap, which negatively affects the quality of the compost.

The third zone is characterized by a temperature of 50–75 °C. Here the composting process is most active. An important role is played by the vital activity of microorganisms that contribute to the intensive decomposition of organic matter.

In the fourth zone, the temperature exceeds 75 °C. Since most microorganisms die at this temperature, mostly chemical reactions take place here without the participation of microbes, as a result of which a humic, nitrogen-rich complex of nutrients necessary for fertilizing the soil is formed. The quality of the fertilizer depends on the presence or absence of the fourth zone in the compost heap.

When shoveling the compost mass, the temperature zones are mixed, so the compost layer from the first zone gets into the fourth one and vice versa, which contributes to the intensive decomposition process.

Hot and other composting methods

Compost can be ready within 1 month. To do this, use the technique of hot composting. The optimal heap size for this process should be approximately 1 m3. The walls are recommended to be made with slots for air, it is best if there is a mesh as the walls (Fig. 46). As with cold composting, there should be free space nearby for compost tossing.

Rice. 46. For intensive ventilation of the pile during hot composting, it is recommended to make walls with slots.

This process is called hot because of the high temperatures that accompany decay and decomposition of organic matter. Nitrogen-containing components contribute to the increase in temperature in the heap: grain, seeds, bread and flour products, food waste, rotting fruits and vegetables, as well as manure and feces, the decay of which causes the rapid heating of the heap. Due to the low air content in these products, it is necessary to interleave them with carbon-containing substances: straw, leaves, grass, sawdust, crushed cardboard, paper, which themselves almost do not heat up, and consume nitrogen when rotting. For hot composting, both those and other substances are taken in a ratio of 1: 1.

All materials for hot composting must be finely shredded. It is also recommended to add ready-made compost to the mass and moisten the pile as needed.

After 4-6 days, and if the pile is covered with a film, then after 3-4 days the temperature in the center will exceed 70 ° C. At this time, it is necessary to transfer the compost to a free place, otherwise the microbes may die. In total, during this period of compost ripening, it is necessary to throw a bunch of 4 times.

The hot composting method can produce 3 portions of finished compost during the summer.

There are other quick composting methods. For example, you can compost the leaves of fruit plants: apple trees, pears, cherries, currants - they quickly rot.

The waste collected in a heap is poured over with a 0.5% solution of urea and a decoction of potatoes, which is prepared in the following way: 1 kg of chopped potatoes is boiled in 3 liters of water and then 10 liters of cold water are poured. For 10 kg of leaves, 5 liters of broth is enough. The decoction contains nutrients necessary for the vital activity of microorganisms. After 3 shovels within a month, the compost is ready.

Many farmers dig a trench in the spring to quickly fertilize the land, fill it with organic waste (fallen leaves, food waste, manure, feces) and cover it with a 15–20 cm layer of turf on top. It turns out a kind of steam bed on which you can grow early greens.

"Lazy" compost can be made from garden waste without forming a heap, but using a basket or box. Waste is stacked in layers as in conventional composting. Water is added if necessary to prevent drying out.

To prepare the so-called active compost, a heap is formed; baskets or log cabins can also be used (Fig. 47).

Rice. 47. Log house for the formation of compost.

The essence of "mixed" compost is its regular mixing. All ingredients for making a compost pile should be finely shredded, with garden waste piled around the edges of the pile or basket, and food waste placed in the center.

Pasteurization of compost

Industrial production of compost includes such a phase as pasteurization. It is necessary to bring the compost of the first phase to full readiness and suitability for use as a fertilizer for many mushrooms, such as champignons.

In the process of pasteurization, the compost gets rid of many microorganisms that are harmless to crops, but dangerous to capricious fungi.

Special tunnels (chambers) are built for pasteurization. Under such conditions, it is easier to create and maintain the required temperature and gas exchange. All this is necessary for the destruction of harmful microorganisms.

The pasteurization process consists of several stages. First, it is necessary to equalize the temperature in the entire mass of compost with the help of air supply. The higher the temperature of the compost, the more fresh air must be supplied. Usually, fans are used to maintain the optimum air temperature, with the help of which the air flow rate is regulated.

The decrease in ammonia concentration occurs in the second stage of pasteurization during primary conditioning.

The duration of the primary posterization process is up to 30 hours at a temperature of about 50 °C. The concentration of ammonia in the compost decreases to 0.15–0.2%.

The next step in pasteurization is to raise the temperature to 60 °C. The temperature is raised gradually, at a rate of 1.5 °C / hour, to allow the microorganisms to adapt to the higher temperatures of the next pasteurization step. The temperature of the compost mass rises as a result of a decrease in the volume and speed of fresh air supply.

In addition, steam can be used for heating. The process usually takes 6-8 hours.

The destruction of harmful microorganisms occurs at the stage of pasteurization itself, which lasts up to 12 hours. The maximum temperature does not exceed 62 °C. The volume and speed of fresh air intake is minimal. At the same time, the concentration of gaseous ammonia in the compost mass is up to 0.3%.

After that, it is necessary to start the process of cooling the compost, otherwise a higher concentration of this substance, when exposed to high temperatures, can lead to the death of microorganisms useful for the formation of high-quality fertilizer.

To cool the compost mass to a temperature of 48–50 °C, the fresh air supply is resumed. The cooling rate is higher than the heating rate and is 2 °C / hour. After reaching the specified temperature, secondary conditioning takes place, at which the ammonia concentration decreases to 0.1%. This process takes 48-60 hours.

After the second phase of posterization, the resulting fertilizer has high qualities that have a beneficial effect on plant growth.

It is quite difficult to carry out the pasteurization process at home, since modern technologies and sophisticated equipment are used in industrial composting.

Applying compost to the soil

Compost should be introduced into the soil in the fall during the autumn digging of the garden, laying it under a shovel. Depending on the needs of crops, the amount of compost introduced into the soil is approximately 5 to 8 centners per 100 m2. It is important to take into account that cucumbers and cabbage, for example, consume more organic fertilizer than carrots, tomatoes, beets, onions, etc.

You can fill the furrows almost to the top, then this soil nutrition can be enough for 5-6 years. When planting individual plants, the compost is laid out directly in the holes.

For planting trees and shrubs, it is recommended to put about 3 buckets of compost in the planting holes. For feeding indoor plants, it is recommended to use an aqueous solution of compost.

Wet compost should be applied in a layer of 5 to 15 cm, dry - from 1.5 to 3 cm. When applying compost to depleted soil, a layer of wet compost should be 15–25 cm and renewed annually.

The introduction of compost improves the quality of the soil and reduces the need for plants in water, which is especially important in arid zones and during the hot season.

If the compost is not fully ripe, the organic residues in it have not completely decomposed, the amount of nutrients in it is small and, as a rule, it is used not as a fertilizer, but as a mulching material.

Mulch is a layer of loose material, such as peat, sawdust, or semi-mature compost, laid out on top of the soil. This substance helps to retain moisture in the beds and protect the soil from the germination of weeds.

Composting It is an aerobic, natural process of decomposition of organic matter by various types of fungi and bacteria, as a result of which food and garden organic waste is converted into a soil-like material, which is called compost.

Compost- a very useful product for conditioning and fertilizing the soil.

As a result of composting, the following end products are created (% of the outgoing waste volume):

compost (40-50% by weight);
gases (40-50% by weight);
residual materials (10% by weight).

Residues include plastics and other materials that do not decompose, as well as non-compostable organic materials that may need to be returned to the composting process.

Composting can take place at various scales:

owners of private houses - yard composting;
by a local authority or an enterprise on a large scale - centralized composting.

Yard composting is the composting of garden waste and plant residues. Which can be carried out by individual homeowners on their plots. The simplest form of yard composting is the heaping of organic material and turning it over periodically to enrich the microorganisms with oxygen. With this passive composting method, it can take from several months to one year to turn waste into compost. Compost can be used both for soil conditioning and as fertilizer in the garden. To speed up the process, turn the compost at least once a week and keep it moist during the dry period.

Centralized composting includes windrow composting and tunnel composting.

Both methods require:

a certain degree of screening, grinding and mixing. The windrow is a trapezoidal pile, the length of which exceeds its width and height. The swaths are regularly turned over by front loaders or
special turning mechanisms. The temperature rise that occurs during composting causes exothermic reactions associated with respiratory metabolism. Removal of all pathogens
possible when the compost waste reaches a temperature of 70 degrees Celsius for 1-2 hours. The first stage of composting takes place over six to eight weeks, after which ripening takes place, which does not require frequent
turning over. As a rule, ripening lasts 3 - 9 months. The tunnel method involves the placement of organic waste in a tunnel-type chamber that can rotate for better mixing and aeration.
material that is intensively ventilated with fans or ventilation ducts. After pre-treatment in the tunnel chamber, the compost material matures in swaths. By this method, composting
is faster because this method is more suitable for composting food waste. However, the tunnel method involves significant energy costs.

Compost video:

Composting is an inexpensive way to make valuable fertilizer which is safe for plants and improves soil quality. Unfortunately, the method is not without drawbacks - the process of decay of the compost heap lasts for many months. How to speed up the process?

Compost is a valuable natural fertilizer

can be used for all kinds of cultivation: from growing vegetables in the beds to a flower bed. Fertilizer - although heterogeneous - supplies nutrients to plants, accelerates the formation of humus and improves the air-water properties of the soil. It can be used throughout the season, as it belongs to the group of long-acting fertilizers.

Preparation of well-decomposed compost usually lasts 6-12 months. Only after this period can mature compost of dark color and lumpy structure be obtained. Compost obtained in a shorter time (3-4 months) is fresh and, as a rule, it is used as a useful mulch. However, some procedures and preparations can significantly speed up the preparation.

What to add to the pile to speed up composting?

Compost mixing The compost in the composter should be turned over every 2-3 weeks. Stirring will speed up decomposition by several weeks.

black film– lining the compost bin with garden film increases the temperature of the compost. What is connected with this is that the decomposition of organic matter occurs faster.

Compost activators- these stimulants shorten the decay process even for several months. Thanks to the use of "accelerators", the creation of mature compost lasts 4-6 months. Activators can be purchased at garden stores or online. Preparations contain microorganisms or enzymes. In our garden centers you can, for example, purchase: "Sanex Complex", "Bioforce Compost", "Compostar" .

Lime– to some extent accelerates the production of compost and at the same time prevents mold from plant waste. It is recommended to apply, in particular, when the compost consists of a large amount of grass. Approximate doses: 1-2kg/m³ of quicklime or 2-4kg/m³ of carbonate lime.

Bone, horn meal- the addition will speed up composting if the heaps are dominated by organic residues containing carbon (lignified parts, shoots, roots, bark).

California worms- feed on organic residues, "processing" them into valuable vermicompost. The presence of these organisms increases the quality of the compost and the decomposition time of the heap (by several months). ⇒ Biohumus - what is it, how to use it and is it worth it?

Microbiological processes occurring during the composting of organic waste. How waste is composted