Installation of railings. Metal fencing for stairs

Installing handrails is a responsible undertaking that must be carried out taking into account safety requirements. When deciding how to install railings, you need to have some construction experience or thoroughly study the technology of such an operation. The reliability and appearance of the entire staircase depend on how the installation is carried out.

Nuances of arrangement

The staircase railing is a side railing of a flight of stairs that performs several tasks: a protective function, assistance in climbing and descending the stairs and creating a certain interior. Structurally, stair railings include the following elements: handrail (a longitudinal element on which a person rests his hand when moving up the stairs), balusters (vertical posts for holding the handrail) and pedestals (larger balusters with a power function, installed at the edges of the flight).

To fulfill the protective function, the following requirements are imposed on fences: strength, safe height and installation pitch of balusters, which prevent a person (especially a child) from falling from a height. Operational parameters should ensure ease of use of the stairs, the ability to comfortably rest your hand when climbing or lowering the stairs (optimal height, width and quality of the handrail). Finally, the appearance of the railing should give an attractive appearance to the entire staircase.

Selection of materials

Before installing structures, it is necessary to select the material from which they will be made. The following basic materials can be used:

The wooden staircase is complemented by railings made of the same material. Such designs can be used on other types of stairs. The main advantage of such structures is the manufacturability and flexibility of wood, which makes it quite easy to turn or cut a baluster of a fancy shape. For wooden railings, oak and beech can be used, but pine or linden is more economically feasible. The manual processing of wooden balusters gives wood a special attractiveness.
Metal railings are highly durable and reliable. For balusters, stamped or cast parts are often used. Stainless steel and anodized aluminum are widely used. Elements made of cast iron, bronze, and copper look good in an expensive interior. One of the possible design options is the openwork design of the side rails by forging or bending.
When arranging the front entrance staircase, stone railings look attractive. The stone is massive and has an increased cost, and therefore is used extremely rarely in the interior in large rooms. Popular stones are marble and granite. You can also use artificial stone.
Impact-resistant glass is considered a modern material for the manufacture of railings. As a rule, it is used in the form of a solid transparent or colored wall. Glass packages are installed on decorative metal stands.
Plastic is used in economy class railings. Typically, handrails on stairs are made from PVC with simple metal railings, in which vertical metal rods are installed instead of decorative balusters.

Regulatory Requirements

The installation of railings must take into account regulatory requirements that ensure the safety of the structure and ease of use. The following general rules for installing handrails must be observed:

Railings are installed when there are more than 2 steps on the stairs.
The handrail for an adult is mounted at a height of 85-125 cm, and if there are children, it is recommended to install an additional handrail at a height of 45-75 cm.
The distance between the load-bearing vertical elements is set to at least 0.6 m, but between the load-bearing balusters there must be vertical or horizontal elements that do not allow the child’s head to pass between them, i.e. the distance should be no more than 20 cm.
The strength of the railing should be calculated for the support of a person weighing at least 100-120 kg.
With a staircase width of up to 1.2 m, only external railings are installed, provided that the other edge of the staircase rests against the wall, and for larger widths, the second railing is installed at a distance of 4-8 cm from the wall surface.
The surface of the handrail should be smooth, but not slippery.
The balusters must be fastened at 2 points - at the top to the handrail, at the bottom to the stairs.

How to install railings

When installing railings with your own hands, you will need the following tool:

welding machine (for metal structures);
hammer drill (concrete stairs);
Bulgarian;
electric drill;
screwdriver;
hacksaw;
chisel;
plane;
Grinder;
hammer;
level;
plumb line;
roulette;
metal ruler.

The question of how to install railings in a house is decided depending on the design of the staircase and its size. In general, installation includes the following stages of work:

installation of extreme load-bearing support pillars (pedestals);
marking the installation sites of balusters, and marking the center line, as well as centers on the balusters themselves;
preparing balusters to size and attaching them to the stairs;
installation of the handrail and fastening it to the cabinets and balusters.

Each railing material has its own installation specifics.

Wooden railings are attached to a wooden staircase using nails or screws. Handrails are attached to vertical elements using 3 main methods: studs, dowels or screws. To strengthen the joints, an adhesive composition, such as PVA, is used.

When installing metal fences, a welding machine is usually used. At the same time, bolted connections of standard elements are also possible. Glass parts are installed using metal hinges and attachments. Special metal profiles are used.

Installation of railings is considered an important and responsible event in the arrangement of stairs. It must be carried out taking into account the requirements of safety and ease of use.

Although stair railings are considered a minor design detail because they are not always used, they are important enough to be discussed. The main function is to ensure safety and convenience when moving along a flight of stairs. The design of the railings plays an important role.

Wood, concrete, metal and glass are traditionally used for manufacturing. The latter is usually used to fill the distances between posts.

In this article we will talk about metal railings for stairs .

Sketches of railings and fences - photos and drawings

Sketches of railings are an integral part of the design and help to present the final picture in more detail. Photos of railings, computer graphics or hand drawings are suitable for these purposes.

Stair railing elements

Railing - These are stair railings that protect people from falling out and ensure convenient operation of the structure. Accessories for railings:

Balusters . Support posts with which the fence is attached to the stairs. Perform load-bearing and decorative functions.
Filling fences . It is necessary in order to close the space between the racks, and thereby ensure the safety of movement along the stairs. Partitions are required if there are children in the house. There are several main types of filling (shown in the photo).
1. classic. Consist only of vertical or inclined balusters;
2. solid panels. This type of fencing is a set of wide sheets. Typically used when combining railings with glass.
3. filling with crossbars. In this case, the space between the balusters is closed with horizontal metal rods - crossbars or rails, located parallel to the handrails.

Handrails - fencing elements that are installed on balusters on one side of the flight of stairs or on both. Can also be mounted on the wall. Handrail overlays provide a comfortable and pleasant hand grip.

Types of railings for stairs - materials and manufacturing methods

Before explaining how to make a railing for a staircase, we need to choose which metal is best suited for our purposes.

aluminum;
iron;
cast iron;
steel railings.

The choice of material depends on many factors, but the most important is the purpose of the product. For example, for exterior railings, stainless steel is best, which produces nickel-plated railings. Or cast iron, products from which can be seen in old entrances or on bridges.

Aluminum railings are great for indoor use and can take on more complex shapes (screw or rotary). Iron is generally used for mass production. It is difficult to process and is not suitable for homemade products.

According to the manufacturing method, the following types of railings are distinguished:

Prefabricated railings for stairs

The railings are assembled from steel or aluminum parts. In the first case, upon completion of the work, the railings are painted, in the second, a special protective coating is applied. Aluminum railings have the following advantages:

ease of installation (you can do it yourself);
cheapness;
low weight of the structure.

The listed advantages are due to the fact that prefabricated fences are manufactured without the use of welding. If necessary, the structure can be easily dismantled.

According to the method of applying the protective coating, railings and handrails are divided into:

fences with polymer coating;
anodized aluminum railings.
steel with chrome plating.

Welded railings for stairs - photo of metal fences

Welded railings for stairs are made of steel or ferrous metal. Their advantage is strength and durability. However, with proper finishing, such products also turn out to be very beautiful. To shape stainless steel railings, the method of “cold” metal bending is used. This type of design is characterized by the presence of geometric patterns.

The disadvantage of welded iron railings is their susceptibility to corrosion and the need for periodic painting. Stainless steel railings do not have this drawback. The service life of such products is about 50 years. They do not require painting or additional care. If necessary, you can repair the railings yourself. The surface of the steel is processed using polishing, grinding or satin finishing.

Welding of railings is divided into two types:

semi-automatic;
argon-arc.

The disadvantage of the first method is a large amount of splashes. The second method does not have this drawback and is therefore more common. The seam produced by argon welding is more accurate and lends itself well to further processing, which includes stripping and polishing. The handrail is fastened using a hardware assembly or by gluing with a special glue.

Wrought iron railings for stairs - photos of stair railings

Forged stair railings are distinguished by their exquisite appearance and complex manufacturing process. They are made using the artistic forging method, often according to an individual project. Any finishing options and a mixture of styles are possible - from light, openwork, airy structures to massive ones that create a feeling of reliability.

Forged stair railings will give any product or interior a unique charm of antiquity and good quality.

Wrought iron railings for stairs offer a huge variety of colors: gold, silver, copper, etc. The only drawback of such products is their extremely high price.

Cast fences and railings

To produce cast fences and railings, a sample of the future product is first prepared, from which a mold is made. Next, molten metal (bronze, cast iron, brass) is poured into it. After the material hardens, it is further processed. Casting has a number of advantages:

durability and strength;
variety of forms.

Combined railings for stairs

Combined fencing involves a combination of different materials. For example, powder-coated chrome railings, steel handrails and glass inserts, or aluminum handrails. This variety makes combined railings a universal solution, suitable for almost every staircase.

Requirements for stair railings - standards for railings and handrails

The requirements for fencing (GOST and SNiP) are determined by their main function - ensuring safety during ascent and descent. In this regard, the design must comply with certain standards:

the height of stair railings is from 90 cm to a meter.
the racks are installed from each other at a distance of about 60 cm;
the space between the balusters is filled using one of the methods described above;
if the handrail is attached to the wall, then the distance from it to the wall should be 7-10 cm;
handrail overlays must be smooth and continuous, with a cross-section of 5 cm;
handrails for stairs protrude 30 cm beyond the step line and have a rounded end;
the structure must withstand a load of at least 100 kg per meter.

On stairs installed in children's institutions, the handrail should be duplicated at a height of 50 cm. And the distance between the posts is reduced to 10 cm so that the child cannot stick his head through.

Installing handrails with your own hands - installation of stair railings video

It is difficult to overestimate how important reliable installation of stair railings is. First of all, the safety of people depends on this. If you don’t know how to install railings, but want to do it yourself, choose one of two methods:

Attaching the handrail to the wall - installation on stairs

Fastening the handrail to the wall is used if the staircase is located near the wall. In this case, racks are not needed; the handrails are installed using special brackets, the size of which is designed so that the distance from the handrail to the wall is about 7-10 cm.

The handrail bracket can be of two types:

cast;
articulated

When using the second type, it is possible to adjust the tilt of the handrail, which is very convenient. The structure is easy to assemble and can be quickly dismantled if necessary.

Attaching balusters to steps - handrails to stairs

Installation of balusters can be done in three ways:

single- the simplest and least reliable method, when the stand is attached only to an anchor (dowel). But, as a rule, it is quite enough;
flange mounting– involves fixing the flange using self-tapping screws. For maximum reliability, use three self-tapping screws;
anti-vandal fastening of fences- the most reliable. With the help of a drill, holes are drilled in the steps and embedded parts are placed in them, onto which pipes for the railings are attached.

Fastening to a step

Installing railings using this method begins with marking out the places on the steps where the posts will be located. They should be located at a distance of 5-10 cm from the edges of the step and at a distance of 30-60 cm from each other.
First, the first and last pillars are installed. For single mounting To do this, holes 12 cm deep and 16 mm in diameter are drilled into the steps. Anchors (dowels) are inserted into the holes, onto which balusters are mounted.

For flange mounting Three holes are drilled, 8 cm deep and 1.2 cm in diameter, into which dowels are inserted. The flange is secured with self-tapping screws and the stand is attached to it. An example is shown in the photo. During installation, you must ensure that the entrance pillars are vertical, as they will serve as a guide for the rest of the balusters.
Pull a cord along the top of the outer posts and install balusters, aligning them with the cord. Then check the verticality of each and attach to the steps.
Stainless steel handrails can be attached either on top of the balusters, with self-tapping screws, or on the side, using flanges.
Before installation, cut stainless steel handrails to the required length at a right angle. Determine where holes need to be drilled by placing the handrail against the posts. Place on hinges and secure.
If the space between the racks is filled using crossbars, then it is necessary to cut them into pieces of the required size, determine the mounting locations on the racks (usually 2 or 3) and drill holes. Fix the crossbar on the balusters.

If glass panels are used as filling, then special holders must be installed on the rack and the panels secured with their help.

The disadvantage of fastening “on a step” is that the fence reduces the width of the flight. Therefore, this method is undesirable for narrow stairs. In this case, it is preferable to mount the racks at the end.

Attaching balusters to the end of the step

Such fastening of the railing is possible when the distance between the flights is at least 70 cm. The baluster is installed at the end using two anchors. There are four possible ways:

Fastening balusters to two expansion anchors through a sleeve. It is used in cases where it is necessary to place the stand at a short distance from the step. At the end of the step, 2 recesses are drilled into which expansion anchors are inserted through holes in the racks and bushings with decorative overlays so that the end of the anchor protrudes slightly. A cap nut is screwed onto this end, expanding it and securing it.
Side mount. In this case, the balusters are threaded into special holders and fixed. And expansion anchors secure them to the flight of stairs.
On two expansion anchors without the use of a sleeve. In this case, the stand is adjacent to the end of the step. It differs from the first method only in that a bushing is not used.
Fastening with a chemical anchor. Chemical or liquid nails are an adhesive substance that penetrates deeply into concrete and firmly holds it together. This method is used if it is necessary to secure stair railings into a concrete structure. So, an anchor and a pin are inserted into the hole filled with the mixture.

After the balusters are secured, the remaining installation of the railings is carried out. In the same way as when installing ON a stage (described above). The stainless steel staircase railings are ready.

racks cannot be installed in places where there is a difference in height and bending of the handrails (fracture);
during installation, in places of branch and fracture, it is necessary to adjust the joint as accurately as possible;
If possible, the joints of the crossbars should be made so that they are covered with fasteners or special fittings;
When installing racks on steps lined with tiles, it is necessary to make a mark on the surface so that the drill with a diamond core does not slip.

If you follow these rules, you can assemble the stair railings with your own hands. This is a very real task if you approach it methodically and slowly.

The most common types of stair railings include wood, metal, forged, cast and combined. All elements of stair railings (railings, handrails and balusters) are usually made in the same style and should be in harmony with the appearance of the steps and side stringers. There are many ways to attach stair railings, and you will receive detailed information about the most commonly used ones in this material.

Despite the fact that railings are considered a minor part of the staircase, their role is great, since they mainly ensure safety and convenience when moving along a flight of stairs.

Learn how to make your own stair railings from various materials.

Basic elements and requirements for stair railings

The main elements of stair fencing are railings, handrails and balusters.

Railings are barriers for staircases that protect people from falling out and provide ease of use of the structure.

Railing- this is an element of fencing for stairs of various configurations, which, firstly, serve to ensure convenient movement along the stairs and prevent a person from falling outside the fenced structure, and secondly, they are a fairly noticeable element of the interior. When choosing a fence, the design of the railing plays an important role.

As shown in the photo, wood, concrete, metal and glass are most often used as materials for stair railings:

Glass is mainly used to fill the space between posts.

Handrails- this is a narrower concept that corresponds to the upper part of the railing, which is what a person holds on to when ascending or descending stairs. These are special fencing elements that are fixed to balusters on one or both sides of a flight of stairs. They can also be attached to the wall. Thanks to the use of the handrail overlay, a comfortable hand grip is ensured.

Balusters- support posts, with the help of which the fence is fixed to the stairs. In addition to being load-bearing, they also perform a decorative function.

See what the railings, handrails and balusters look like in stair railings in these photos:

Compliance with the requirements for the construction of stair railings (GOST and SNiP) is necessary to ensure safety during ascent and descent. Therefore, the height of the stair railings should be from 90 cm to 1 m. The racks should be mounted from each other at a distance of approximately 60 cm. The space between the balusters must be filled. When attaching the handrail to the wall, the distance from it to the wall should be from 7 to 10 cm.

Pay attention to the photo - the overlays on the staircase railings are made smooth and even, without interruptions:

It is desirable that their cross-sectional area is 5 cm. Handrails for stairs should have a rounded end and protrude 30 cm beyond the step line.

Stair railings made of different types of wood (with photo)

Despite the fact that recently stair railings combined from various materials have become very popular, wooden railings remain one of the most common.

Wooden balusters are perhaps the most common type of wooden staircase railings. Their installation on the stairs is carried out in the lower and upper parts of the structure. At the bottom, the balusters are mounted into the lower step, and at the top they are fixed into a wooden handrail and connected to each other by pillars.

Balusters for stair railings made of wood can be of various types and sizes. The standard cross-section of each of them is 45 x 45 mm; on wider stairs you can install balusters with a cross-section of 50 x 50 or 60 x 60 mm.

Unfortunately, wood, by its nature, can quickly lose its structural and decorative properties. Over time, its strength may be lost and it may darken noticeably, especially in open air.

But despite this, wood is a suitable and quite practical material for handrails and stair railings, especially inside the house.

As you can see in the photo, coniferous species (for example, pine, cedar, larch), as well as oak, walnut, cherry and beech are most often used for wooden stair railings:

In many ways, the choice of wood species depends on the design preferences and material capabilities of the owner.

How to make wooden stair railings with your own hands (with photos)

Before attaching the staircase railing elements (balusters, handrails and other structural parts), you must first putty, sand and varnish. After this, you need to design a device for further drilling axial holes in the balusters and posts. To do this you will need a drill mounted on a chipboard panel. For centering, it is recommended to screw an oak block to the chipboard, in which a hole for the drill has been made in advance.

Then, to fencing the stairs with your own hands, you need to screw the block as a guide for the baluster. When moving the balusters to the drill, you should make a hole exactly along the axis of the balusters and posts.

Using a milling machine, you need to cut grooves and a rail in the handrails. The rail must be made to fit the bottom groove. Subsequently, it will be screwed to the balusters. The decorative strip must be machined to the size of the upper groove.

Look at the photo - to attach the staircase railing you will need studs 10 cm long and 8 mm thick; they need to be screwed into the balusters:

For ease of tightening, it is best to use nuts. But you need to keep in mind that this method of attaching balusters is only suitable for hard wood.

After screwing in the studs, the nuts must be removed. The same must be done with the pillars, only in this case the screwed-in pin should be 10 mm thick. A hole with a diameter of 7 mm should be made in the bottom step and the post should be screwed into the step. After this, the pole must be unscrewed, leaving the pin in the step.

The step should be attached to the floor using an anchor bolt, hiding it with a post. To install the top post, you need to mark the location. Screw a self-tapping screw into the center, and then tighten the fishing line between it and the stud of the lower step. On each step, using a square, you need to draw the lines of the axes of the balusters and mark their centers.

Then use a thin drill to make a small indentation. Using a special device for drilling perpendicular holes (with a 5 mm drill), you need to make holes in the steps for installing balusters. After this, you can screw the studs into the balusters and screw them into the steps. Using a square, you need to check the axes of the balusters.

Now you can start assembling the entire march. It is necessary to cut the two outer balusters at the desired angle, set them strictly vertically, using a level.

You need to fasten the rail with tape and draw cutting lines along it, along which you should then trim all the balusters. After this, you need to screw the support rail to the balusters and place a handrail on it.

The ends of the handrail should be cut at the selected angle so that they fit snugly against the posts, and then screw them to the rail with self-tapping screws. When cutting posts and balusters with a miter saw, it is recommended to wrap the ends with tape to avoid chipping.

After the marches are ready, you can proceed to installing the balustrade. The pole must be secured to the wall and secured with an anchor bolt. Next, you need to cut out and lay the sub-balustrade rail between the posts. The middle balusters should be screwed to the rail from the reverse side using Euroscrews. The outer balusters must be screwed to the floor through the batten using anchor bolts. Then all that remains is to screw the support rail.

Now you can begin fixing the handrails of the wooden staircase railings to the posts. To do this, you need to drill a hole in the handrail. Use a chisel to remove excess. Next, a stencil is made, which is applied to the handrail, after which a mark is drawn. Using a thin drill, you need to make a hole, and then widen it using a thick drill.

Next, you need to place the handrail on the railing and circle the end on the post. After attaching the stencil, you need to mark the surface for the hole. Then you should drill a hole, screw the euroscrew into it, after which the screw itself must be unscrewed. Having placed the handrail on the support rail, it needs to be screwed using a Euroscrew.

Therefore, it is necessary to secure all the top posts and balustrade posts. The lower posts can be fastened with self-tapping screws or Euroscrews, screwing them at an angle.

After this, all that remains is to cover the underrail with a decorative one. To do this, you need to cut it into pieces of a suitable size, lubricate the inside with silicone and insert it into the handrail, securing it with tape for safety.

The installation of wooden railings for stairs is shown in these photos:

Metal stair railings: types of filling and types of material

In addition to wooden ones, one of the most common in modern home design are metal stair railings.

It is very important to pay attention to the implementation of fences that are necessary to fill the space between the racks. This ensures safe movement on the stairs. Partitions in fences are required if there are small children in the house.

There are several main types of filling for metal stair railings:

Classic type. Such fence fillings consist only of vertical or inclined balusters.
Solid panel fencing is a set of wide sheets. As a rule, such panels are used when combining railings with glass.
Filling with crossbars. In this option, the void between the balusters is closed with horizontal metal rods - crossbars or handrails, which are located parallel to the handrails.

Before making metal stair railings, you should decide on the type of material (metal). It can be aluminum, iron, cast iron or steel.

The choice of material will depend on many factors, the main one of which is the purpose of the product.

For example, for the installation of external fences, it is recommended to use stainless steel, from which nickel-plated railings are created. Cast iron will also work.

Pay attention to the photo - of all metal railings for stairs, aluminum ones are ideal; with their help you can create the most complex shapes (screw or rotary):

Iron, due to its difficulty in processing, is usually used in the mass production of fences. It is not suitable for self-production.

According to the manufacturing method, metal railings can be divided into prefabricated, welded, forged, cast and combined.

Making prefabricated and welded metal stair railings in the house with your own hands (with photo)

Prefabricated railings for stairs.

The railings are assembled from steel or aluminum elements. In the first case, upon completion of the work, the railings are painted, in the second, a special protective coating is applied. Aluminum railings are easy to install, they are relatively cheap and lightweight. Due to the absence of welding, prefabricated fencing is not only easy to assemble, but also easily and quickly dismantled.

According to the method of applying a protective layer to the metal fencing, stairs in the house can be divided into polymer-coated railings, anodized aluminum railings, and chrome-plated steel railings.

Welded railings for stairs.

Welded railings for stairs are made of steel or ferrous metal. They are quite strong and durable. Don't be intimidated by their original appearance, because when properly finished they turn out very beautiful. To give the desired shape to stainless steel railings, the method of “cold” metal bending is used. This type of design is characterized by the presence of various geometric patterns.

Welded iron railings also have disadvantages, such as their susceptibility to corrosion and therefore the need for regular painting. When using stainless steel railings, such problems do not arise. Their service life is about 50 years.

As you can see in the photo, stair railings for a country house, made of stainless steel, are so practical that they do not require painting or any special additional care:

If the need arises, you can easily repair the railings yourself by treating the surface using polishing agents, grinding or satin finishing.

Welding when installing stair railings is of two types: semi-automatic and argon arc. Semi-automatic welding has one drawback: a large amount of spatter during operation. In argon arc welding they are absent, so this method is the most popular. When using it, the seam looks neater and lends itself well to further processing, which consists of stripping and polishing. The handrail is fastened using a hardware assembly or by gluing using special glue.

Forged, cast and combined railings for stairs (with photo)

Forged fences.

Wrought iron stair railings have an elegant appearance, but the process of their manufacture is quite complicated. They are produced according to an individual project using artistic forging. At the customer's request, it is possible to create any finishing options, different styles (from light openwork structures to strong and massive ones).

Look at the photo - forged stair railings can give any interior a special antique charm:

In addition, such railings are varied in color: they can have a golden tint, silver or copper color. Their only drawback is their high cost.

Cast fencing.

To produce cast fencing, you must first prepare a sample of the product, according to which the mold will be cast in the future. After this, it can be filled with molten metal (bronze, cast iron, brass).

When the material hardens, it should be further processed. Casting has a number of advantages: strength and durability, as well as the variety of resulting shapes.

Combined fencing.

Combined fencing combines elements from various materials. For example, railings may consist of powder-coated chrome material, handrails may be made of steel, glass inserts may be added to the fence, etc.

Thanks to this variety, combined railings can be considered as a universal solution suitable for any staircase structure.

A variety of forged, cast and combined railings for stairs in the house are presented in these photos:

Installation of stair railings: how to attach handrails and balusters

It is very important to reliably install stair railings, since the safety of people depends on it.

There are several ways to make a staircase railing in a private house.

Attaching the handrail to the wall.

The handrail is attached to the wall when the staircase is located near it. With this option, racks will not be needed; the handrails will be installed using special brackets.

Their size should be calculated so that the distance from the handrail to the wall is no more than 10 cm.

Brackets for handrails are cast and hinged. When using hinged brackets, it becomes possible to adjust the inclination of the handrail, which is very convenient when using the stairs.

This design is easy to assemble and just as easy to dismantle.

Attaching balusters to steps.

Balusters can be installed in three ways.

Single fastening of balusters is the simplest, but at the same time less reliable method. In this case, the stand is fixed only on the anchor (dowel).
Flange mounting involves mounting the flange with self-tapping screws. For greater reliability of fastening, it is recommended to use several self-tapping screws.
Anti-vandal fastening of fences is the most reliable. In this case, it is necessary to drill holes in the steps using a drill, and then place mortgages in them, onto which pipes for the railings will subsequently be attached.

Attaching balusters to the end of the step.

The baluster is mounted on the end using two anchors.

There are four ways to attach balusters to the end of a step.

Fastening balusters on two expansion anchors through a sleeve

You need to drill two holes at the end of the step. Expansion anchors should subsequently be inserted into them through the holes in the posts and sleeves with decorative overlays so that the end of each anchor protrudes slightly.

It is necessary to screw a cap nut onto it, which performs expansion and fixing functions.

Lateral fastening of balusters.

When fastening from the side, the balusters should be threaded into special holders and secured. In this case, expansion anchors secure the balusters to the flight of stairs.

When mounted on two expansion anchors without using a bushing, the post fits closely to the end of the step. This installation differs from the first method only in that it does not require the use of a bushing.

Fastening balusters to a chemical anchor.

In this case, fastening is done using chemical or liquid nails, which are an adhesive substance that penetrates deeply into the concrete. This chemical anchor is characterized by a fairly strong fastening.

This method is recommended for use when there is a need to secure stair railings into a concrete structure. So, you need to insert an anchor and a pin into the hole filled with the mixture. After the balusters are secured, you can proceed to the remaining installation of the railings - in the same way as when installing using the “on-step” method.

Installation of stair railings: how to install railings

Installation of railings in stair railings using the method of fastening to a step must begin with marking the places where future racks will be located. They should be at a distance of 5-10 cm from the edge of the step and at a distance of 30-60 cm from each other.

The first and last pillars should be installed first. To do this, with single fastening in the steps, it is necessary to drill holes 12 cm deep and 16 mm in diameter. You need to insert anchors (dowels) into the holes, onto which the balusters will be mounted.

For flange mounting, three holes should be drilled with a depth of 8 cm and a diameter of 1.2 cm, into which dowels will then need to be inserted.

The flange must be secured with self-tapping screws, then a stand must be installed in it. During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the entrance pillars are positioned strictly vertically, as they will become a guide for the remaining balusters.

To install a stair railing, it is recommended that you first stretch the cord over the top of the end posts. Then you need to install the balusters, aligning them with the cord. Next, you need to make sure that all the balusters are located vertically, after which you should attach them to the steps.

Stainless steel handrails must be cut to the required length at a right angle before installation. Then you should mark the places where the holes will be drilled by attaching the handrail to the posts. After installing the hinges, the handrails can be secured.

If filling the gap between the racks is done using crossbars, then you should divide them into sections of the required size, determine several fixation points on the racks and drill holes. Then you need to secure the crossbars to the balusters. If glass panels are used to fill the space between the racks, then special holders must be attached to the rack and used to secure the panels.

The disadvantage of the method of attaching stair railings using the “per step” method is the reduction in the width of the flight. Therefore, this method is not recommended for use in the case of narrow stairs. Here it would be preferable to install the rack at the end.

Staircase elements can be made from a variety of materials: a metal frame and steps made of wood or granite, a concrete base and wrought iron railing, stone steps and solid glass filling. Any combination is justified if it matches the chosen interior style.

The owner’s task remains to assemble the elements into a single structure.

Materials for stair railings

Wood – both softwood and hardwood are used. When choosing, they focus not so much on the strength and hardness of the material, but on prestige and affordability. Oak and beech are absolute favorites in cases where it is important to emphasize wealth and respectability. Pine and linden are preferred by craftsmen who equip their home themselves.

Wood has one extremely valuable advantage - flexibility in processing. It is its manual finishing - milling, carving, painting - that allows us to achieve such spectacular and amazing results that can never be obtained in a production environment.

Metal - there are options for any price category. The most common are stainless steel and anodized aluminum - the material is unpretentious, durable, and corrosion-resistant. At the same time, it is quite decorative: stamped polished steel looks very attractive. Cast iron, iron, bronze, copper are used for hot and cold forging. Forged stair railing is not only durable and reliable. But it is also of artistic value, since hot forging is done by hand.
Stone – marble, less often granite and artificial stones. Stone railings look great, but are extremely massive. They are usually installed on external staircases; inside a building, a structure with a stone fence is permissible only in very spacious rooms.
Glass - the material is used for continuous filling. Panels of clear or treated impact-resistant glass are mounted on metal studs.
PVC is a budget option for handrails. It is used, as a rule, in public buildings and entrances of residential buildings.

General requirements

The stair railing is designed to protect the movement of stairs and make it more convenient. When walking, a person adheres to or leans on the handrail with his hand, that is, the railing must be of the appropriate height and the proper degree of strength. The fence is installed on a flight of more than two steps.
Its height for an adult is 90-100 cm. If there are children in the house, then it is recommended to install a second additional handrail on the fence at a height of 50-70 cm
The distance between the balusters and posts must be at least 60 cm.
The space between the racks is filled with vertical or horizontal elements with a distance of 10–15, and no more than 20 cm. When installing internal stairs in private houses, this recommendation is most often not followed, which poses a risk of injury, especially for younger family members.
If the flight of stairs is attached to the wall, then it is recommended to install a wall handrail at a distance of 5–7 cm from the wall partition.

Installation of wooden railings

Staircase made of wood - balusters are fixed to the string, fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws or metal brackets at the top and bottom. When installed in a countersunk position, the self-tapping screw is covered with a wooden plug on top. Holes for self-tapping screws are pre-drilled.

The wooden handrail is fixed to the side of the rack with screws. Tenon joints are considered more durable. In this case, at the stage of manufacturing the elements, spikes are formed in the handrails, and sockets for them are formed on the top of the supports. Before fastening, the spikes should be lubricated with glue. The photo shows the connection between the handrail and the tenon post.
The filling is made from polished bars or intermediate posts. They can be mounted on steps or on horizontal elements.
The string can also be fixed using metal pins: the latter are glued into the holes in the lower part of the supports, and holes are drilled in the string for them. Then the balusters are placed in the nests. The connection to dowels is made in the same way - the diameter of the holes in this case will be larger, so you should pay attention to the size of the cross-section of the wooden block. For sizes less than 60*60 this method is not recommended.

If we are talking about a structure on stringers, the installation of the fence with your own hands is carried out on the steps.

Metal staircase - direct fixation of wooden posts to the metal is not used. Assembly is carried out on wooden steps.

To do this, a pin at least 10 cm long is screwed into the lower part of each baluster and intermediate post.
First, the upper post is installed - screwed into the step, and then removed from the stud. The pin serves as a guide for marking the connection point on all other steps.
Using the markings, holes are drilled in the steps for the metal elements, and then all the supports are screwed into the treads.
The racks are cut to height if necessary. Then the handrail is attached on top with self-tapping screws. In the video, the process of installing wooden elements on a frame structure is covered in more detail.

The assembly procedure on a concrete base is the same: wooden railings are mounted on the steps.

Installation of metal fencing

The installation process on both metal and concrete stairs is the same. You can perform the operation yourself, but with the participation of an assistant: the work is very labor-intensive.

Fastening on steps - holes with a depth of at least 12 cm and a cross-section of 16 mm are made at the places marked for the racks. Anchors are inserted into the holes, and supports are fixed to them. A flange mount is considered more reliable - in this case, three holes are drilled in the surface of the tread, a flange element is attached, and a staircase is attached to it.
Installation at the end of the tread - recommended in cases where the width of the stairs is small. Then two holes are drilled at the end for expansion anchors. The latter are attached through holes in the stand itself and the bushing. You can install a special holder at the end into which the support is fixed. The photo shows a metal stand in a holder.

The handrail is cut into fragments of the required length, and holes are drilled in it at the points of connection to the posts. Then the product is fixed with screws.

For filling, steel cables, metal rods, and solid glass panels are used - the latter are fixed with special holders.

A mandatory element of houses and cottages that have a second floor is a staircase. Adherents of environmentally friendly materials prefer to build wooden structures in their premises. Installing balusters on a wooden staircase with your own hands requires preparation and careful execution of all stages of the work. This article describes several methods for installing additional protection elements for stairs.

Wooden staircase

To ensure the safety of movement on wooden stairs, construction standards require the installation of balusters and handrails. Balusters are rack-mounted fences that rest on steps or come to the same level at the top, where they are connected by railings.

There are several types of racks:

Flat.
Round or square without decorative elements.
Figured, cut on machines according to a template.
Carved. They are the most complex, since their central part is made of decorative cutting. Often such wooden balusters are produced as handmade products.

Each post has a rectangular base that rests on the stairs. It is often longer than the height of the fence requires, but this allows you to adjust the length of each element. If the balusters rest on, their base is cut at the angle at which the flight of stairs is located.

The central part is often made taking into account decorative design. This is the most beautiful part as it is decorated with simple or sculptured carved patterns.

The upper part of the wooden baluster provides support for the railing. Since the railing is angled, the support is cut at the same angle as the entire staircase structure.

Arrangement of a flight of stairs

Material for making stands

There is a wide variety of materials from which balusters are made:

Concrete and gypsum. Such racks are used when decorating external stairs, as well as cornices. They are cast in molds using a reinforcement frame, and after removal they can be additionally polished and treated with special compounds.
Stone. They are the most durable. Artificial stone is made by casting; natural balusters are carved from stone.
Metal balusters. They are made by forging, welding or casting. There are straight and volumetric models. Installation of metal balusters will be in harmony with wooden flights of stairs if the color scheme is chosen correctly.
Polyurethane. Their price is lower than other options. They are lightweight, and their reliability is guaranteed by the presence of a metal rod.
Wooden balusters. Structures of both flat and volumetric shapes are made from natural wood.

Requirements for installing balusters and handrails

To ensure that using the stairs is not fraught with difficulties and those passing along them are not in danger, it is necessary to comply with certain requirements:

The height of the fence should be about one meter (or 90 cm). This is enough to ensure safe movement around the structure. Thanks to this height, it will be convenient to lean on the railing when going up the steps.
If the flight of stairs is adjacent to a wall, for ease of movement it is necessary to install railings at a distance of 5-7 cm from the surface of the wall.
The racks should be located at a distance of 10-20 cm from each other. If there are kids in the house, the optimal value will be 10 cm. If, by placing one baluster per step, it is not possible to achieve the required distance, you need to install two racks.
The railings must withstand a lateral load of 100-120 kg.
If not only adults, but also children live in the house, you can install another railing in the middle of the fence, which will be easy for children to lean on.
The balusters should be fastened in two places: at the bottom to the steps and at the top to the handrails.
Handrails should be smooth. The possibility of introducing a splinter into a wooden product must be excluded.

Installation of balusters

Balusters in a flight of stairs

A row of balusters is located on one or two edges of the flight of stairs as protection, ensuring safety of movement along the steps. The racks can rest on steps, or they can rest on.

One or two balusters can be installed on the steps. This way the balusters will rest on a horizontal surface. The posts will not need to be cut at an angle, so the preparation process for installation will take less time. However, balusters installed on steps reduce the width of the staircase.

Balusters installed on steps

If you install wooden racks on, you can save the usable width of the steps, but in this case, each baluster will need to be trimmed both at the top and bottom. Both angles of inclination will be equal, since they correspond to the inclination of the flight of stairs. This method is used when the thickness is sufficient.

Installation of racks on studs

There is another method of installation using studs using nuts glued into or steps. Such studs are screwed into the rack in the same way as was written earlier. However, before installing the stand on the step, not only is a hole made for the stud, but the upper part is also expanded to the diameter of the nut. Depending on the depth of expansion, one or two nuts are recessed. They are placed flush with the wood and seated with glue. When it is completely dry and the nuts are securely seated in the step, the hole is filled with glue again and the pin is screwed into the baluster.

If the thickness of the step is small, you can drill a through hole in it and screw in a baluster with a pin, and screw a nut with a large washer on the back side.

Sometimes balusters for a flight of stairs are sold with pins already glued in, so the installation process is significantly speeded up.

On the dowels

Since the main load is carried out on the pedestals, dowels can be used to fasten the balusters. This method is the most commonly used for wood structures.

Dowels are small cylindrical wooden spikes. They can be purchased in stores, or you can make them yourself. The price of such products is low, so they are very affordable. To complete all work, it is necessary to prepare dowels and wood glue. The length of the dowels is about 10-12 cm, and the diameter is 0.8-1.2 cm.

Installing racks on steps involves the following sequence of actions:

Preparing all balusters. To do this, a hole is drilled from the bottom in the center of each step with a depth equal to half the length of the dowels and a diameter 0.5 mm larger than the fasteners.
The holes in the racks are filled with glue and dowels are inserted into them. Excess glue is removed immediately. It takes about 2-3 hours to dry, so during this time you can start marking the steps themselves.
When making markings, you should remember that all points for installing balusters must be on the same line. Otherwise, problems will arise when installing the railings. The distance from the edge of the flight of stairs to the place where the rack is attached should be sufficient to fit it on the step. However, it is worth remembering that making a large indentation significantly reduces the usable area of the stairs.
In the places where the points are set on the steps, holes are drilled equal to half the length of the dowels and with a diameter 0.5 mm larger.
Glue is poured into these holes. It also lubricates the end of the rack. It is then inserted into the hole. To prevent the baluster from tilting while the glue dries, it is fixed and aligned to the building level. It also takes 2-3 hours for the glue to dry.

Installation of balusters on dowels

If the installation of racks is carried out on, the first stage of work should be trimming all balusters at the angle of the flight of stairs. To check the correctness of the cut, you need to place the stand against the bowstring and make sure that it is vertical and strictly level.

When installing the racks, it is possible to place them at a greater or lesser distance than the width of the steps. When drilling holes in the balusters and bowstrings themselves, it is worth remembering that they should not be made perpendicular to the cut, but strictly vertically. You also need to correctly calculate the depth of the holes.

After all the balusters are securely in place in the flight of stairs, you can begin preparing them for the installation of railings.

For self-tapping screws

The easiest way to fasten is to use self-tapping screws. This method can be done even by people who have no carpentry skills. In addition, there is no need to wait for the wood glue to dry before proceeding to the next stages of work. To install balusters, long self-tapping screws are used - 8-10 cm. It is desirable that they are made of stainless steel.

Installation of racks with self-tapping screws

Installation of balusters is carried out in the following way:

At the point where the self-tapping screw is screwed in, a slightly smaller hole is drilled in the baluster. This is necessary in order to avoid cracking of the wood at the installation site and thereby avoid weakening the strength of the fasteners.
In order for the self-tapping screw, driven into the material at an angle, to be completely recessed in the wood, a small recess of the diameter of the head and a small depth is made in place of the head.
Then self-tapping screws are screwed into all balusters at an angle of 45°. At first, they are not driven in completely, but only so that their tip barely protrudes outward at the bottom of the rack.
In order for all the balusters to be placed in one row, markings must be made. To do this, you can take a fishing line or a thin cord and stretch it along the flight of stairs.
Then comes the installation of balusters. To do this, each rack is placed in its place and the self-tapping screw is screwed in completely, firmly fixing it to the step. The head of the self-tapping screw is completely recessed into the wood. It is very important at this moment to ensure that all balusters are installed level.
Choppers selected by color are inserted into the recesses formed in place of the screwed screws. Then they are sanded flush with the surface of the baluster and varnished along with the entire structure. Another option for filling the hole is to use wood putty or wax.
After placing all the balusters on the same line and level, they begin to install the railings.

Connection of balusters and railings

After installing all the racks, the final stage of working with a wooden staircase is the installation of handrails or railings. These items can be installed in the following ways:

Dowels.
Threaded rods.
Self-tapping screws.

Balusters prepared for installation of railings

Dowels

The use of dowels is due to the fact that the main load is not placed on the railing; it falls on the supporting posts. To do this, a hole for dowels is drilled in each rack. The same work is done on the railings. So that later it can be securely fastened, holes are made according to well-done markings. The dowels are inserted into the holes filled with glue, after which the handrails are put on them. Then the entire structure should be left for several hours until the glue dries completely.

Threaded rods

When attaching the handrail in this way, it is necessary to accurately determine the center of the baluster and the center of the railing. First, holes are made for the studs in the racks. For additional secure fastening, glue is poured into the holes and then the fasteners are screwed into the racks.

After the glue has completely dried, you need to attach the railing to the posts so that the stud attachment points appear on the back of the railing. This way you can clearly identify the places where holes need to be made. Before attaching the railings to the posts, you need to coat all the holes with glue.

Self-tapping screws

Installation of handrails with self-tapping screws

When installing railings with self-tapping screws, it is very important to choose the correct fastening length. If you use excessively long self-tapping screws, when fully tightened, the tips may protrude onto the outer surface of the railing, which is a very bad indicator.

Making markings for cutting the top of the racks

Installation of a wooden balustrade

A balustrade is a fencing for stairs, balconies, terraces, and various elevations. It consists of figured columns, which in their upper part are connected by a handrail or railing. On stairs, such fences are located between floors, at the beginning or at the end of a flight of stairs. If we talk about balconies and terraces, then in such places this structure, starting from the cabinets and ending with all the racks, is located on the same line. This greatly simplifies the installation process, since there is no need to cut the top of the balusters at an angle.

The height of the balustrade, like the railing, should be about 90cm, the distance between the posts 10-20cm.

Balustrade

It is also important to determine the location of all the pedestals (support pillars) in the flight of stairs. They are approximately twice as thick as the posts (balusters). They can be mounted on studs or dowels. The length of the fastening element should be about 10 cm.

If the pillars rest not on a wooden surface, but on concrete, then it is necessary to make embedded parts into which a bolt-screw is subsequently welded. In order to place a cabinet on this bolt-screw, a hole of the appropriate diameter and length is drilled in it and then the pole is simply screwed onto the fastener.

If the floor surface is made of plank material, the fastening of the pillars is carried out in the same way as the installation of balusters on the wooden surface of the steps. Often in wooden structures, the bottom post is placed on the last step and pressed against the riser.

Upon completion of the installation of the cabinets, you need to clearly mark the location of the racks. They should all be on the same line. You also need to correctly determine the cutting line of the railings so that they fit correctly with the cabinets.

One way to fit the handrail onto all the balusters is to make a groove along the entire length of the handrail to a depth of about 8 mm. The width of the sample corresponds to the width of the racks. This can be done using a machine.

To securely install the railings, you can fasten a thin strip on top of all the posts using self-tapping screws. Railings are laid on top of it and also fixed with self-tapping screws. It is worth remembering that their length should not be long so that they do not protrude through the railing. Additionally, the handrails must be secured to the support posts. Using glue it will be possible to further strengthen the entire structure.

Having completed all the work on installing a wooden balustrade, you can secure your stay at height and give a solid appearance to your staircase, terrace or balcony.

Installation of railings. Metal fencing for stairs - railings and handrails, photo