Is it possible to make a CNC machine with your own hands? Homemade CNC milling machine Homemade CNC machines.

He described in detail the entire process of creating a CNC machine for working on wood and other materials, starting with design.

1. Design

Before building a machine, you need to at least draw a sketch by hand, or better yet, make a more accurate three-dimensional drawing using a CAD program. The author of the project used google sketchup, a fairly simple (free for 30-day use) program. For a more complex project, you can choose Autocad.

The main purpose of the drawing is to find out the required dimensions of the parts to order them online, and to make sure that all the moving parts of the machine will fit together.

As you can see, the author did not use detailed drawings with marked holes for fastenings; he marked the holes during the construction of the machine, but this initial design turned out to be sufficient.

Overall dimensions of the machine: 1050 x 840 x 400 mm.

Axis travel: X 730 mm, Y 650 mm, Z 150 mm

The length of the guides and ball screw depends on the size of the machine you have in mind.

When designing a CNC machine, there are several questions, the answer to which depends on the final result.

Which type of CNC machine do you want to choose?

With a movable table or with a movable portal? Moving table designs are often used for small machines, up to 30x30 cm. They are easier to build and can be made more rigid than moving gantry machines. The disadvantage of moving the table is that, with the same cutting area, the total area of ​​the machine is twice as large as when using a design with a moving portal. In this project the processing area is about 65x65 cm, so a movable portal was chosen.

What do you want to process with a CNC machine?

In this project, the machine was primarily intended for plywood, hardwood and plastics, as well as aluminum.

What will the machine be built from?

This mainly depends on the material that will be processed on the machine. Ideally, the material that is used to make the machine should be stronger than the material that will be processed on the machine, or at least no less strong. Therefore, if you want to cut aluminum, the machine must be assembled from aluminum or steel.

What length of axles do you need?

According to the original plan, the CNC machine was supposed to process plywood and MDF, which are produced in the Netherlands in dimensions of 62 x 121 cm. Therefore, for Y, the passage distance must be at least 620 mm. The stroke length along the X axis is 730 mm, because otherwise the machine would occupy the entire space of the room. Therefore, the X axis is shorter than the length of the plywood sheet (1210 mm), but it is possible to machine half, then move the sheet forward and machine the rest. Using this trick, it is possible to process pieces on the machine that are much larger than the length of the X axis. For the Z axis, 150 mm was selected in order to use a fourth axis in the future.

What type of linear motion will you use?

There are many options for a linear motion system, and the quality of work largely depends on its choice. So it makes sense to invest in the best system you can afford. The author of the project decided that linear rails were the best option for which he had enough money. If you are building a 3-axis CNC router, you will need to buy a kit consisting of three sets of linear guides and two linear bearings per guide.

What feed drive system will you use for each axis?

The main feed drive options are: toothed belts, rack and pinion mechanisms and screw-nut transmission. For homemade CNC machines, a screw-nut transmission using a ball screw is most often used. The nut is attached to the moving part of the machine, the screw is fixed at both ends. The screw is attached to the engine. If the motors rotate, the nut with the moving machine part attached to it will move along the screw and set the machine in motion.

The ball screw in this machine is used to drive the X and Y axes. Ball screw bearings provide a very smooth ride, there is no backlash, and the quality and speed of cutting increases.

The Z axis uses a high quality stainless steel M10 rod with a homemade delrin nut.

Motor and controller type

Typically, homemade CNC machines use stepper motors. Servo drives are mainly used for high-power industrial CNC machines, they are more expensive and require more expensive controllers. 3Nm stepper motors are used here.

Spindle type

The project uses a standard Kress and has a good 43mm clamping flange as well as a built-in speed controller (but most spindles have the latter feature).

If you are going to do really complex cutting, you should pay attention to water-cooled spindles - they are more expensive than standard ones, but they make much less noise, can work at low speeds without overheating and with a wide variety of materials.

Expenses

This CNC machine cost approximately 1,500 euros. A pre-built CNC milling machine of similar specifications costs much more, so you can save money by building the machine yourself.

2. Components for creating a CNC machine

Electrical equipment and electronics:

• 3 stepper motors 3 Nm Nema 23;
• 3 stepper motor drivers DM556 Leadshine;
• 36 V power supply for CNC machines;
• interface board 5 Axis CNC Breakout Board for controlling stepper drivers;
• 5V power supply for interface board;
• two-position On/Off switch;
• Shielded 4 Conductor 18 AWG Stranded Cable;
• 3 touch limit switches;
• Spindle: Kress FME 800 (Bosch Colt or Dewalt Compact Router will also work).

Optional:

• cabinet/casing for electrical equipment;
• movable plastic cable channel;
• 4-pin cable plugs.

Mechanical parts:

• linear guides: for X - SBR 20 for Y and Z - SBR 16;
• ball screw for X and Y - 16 mm in diameter, 5 mm pitch4
• as a transfer screw for the Z axis: steel pin with M10 thread with a homemade Delrin nut;
• aluminum profile: 30x60 mm, cut into pieces 100 mm long;
• aluminum plate 15 mm thick;
• Powerful anti-vibration leveling feet.

Programs:

• CAD/CAM program CamBam;
• program for controlling a CNC machine Mach3

The machine is mainly built from 15mm thick aluminum plates and 30x60mm aluminum profiles. The work was carried out using drilling and lathe machines. Plates and profiles were ordered cut to size.

3. X axis

The base frame is made of 4 pieces of aluminum profile with a cross-section of 30x60 mm and two side panels 15 mm thick. At the end of the profiles there are two holes with a diameter of 6.8 mm; an M8 thread is made inside the holes using a tap.

Thread cutting at the ends of aluminum profiles

To ensure that the holes on the end panels matched, both plates were clamped together when drilling. There are 4 holes drilled in the middle of each plate to install the bearing supports, and four additional holes in one of the side plates for mounting the motor.

Four blocks of aluminum pieces (50x50x20) were made to attach the leveling legs. The blocks are screwed to the external profiles with four M5 bolts with furniture t-nuts.

Linear guides fit directly onto aluminum profiles. For the X axis, rails with a diameter of 20 mm were used. Pre-drilled holes in the base of the linear guides precisely match the grooves in the aluminum profiles. For installation, M5 bolts and furniture t-nuts were used.

4. Portal side plates

The side plates of the portal are almost identical, but one of them has four additional holes drilled for mounting the motor. The entire portal is made of 15 mm thick aluminum plates. To ensure that the holes were exactly in the right place, recesses were punched in carefully marked places with a bench punch, and holes were drilled using a drilling machine along these marks, first with a drill of a smaller diameter, then with the required one.

Due to the way the portal is designed, we had to drill holes in the ends of the side plates and make M8 threads in the holes.

5. Portal assembly

The portal is assembled and installed

The rest of the portal is made in the same way as the side parts. The hardest part was getting the linear rails to line up correctly, which had to line up with the edge of the plate. When marking the exact location of the holes, I pressed two pieces of aluminum extrusions against the sides of the plate to align the guides. The drilled holes are threaded M5. When attaching the guides to the portal, you must make sure that the distance between the guides along the entire length is the same, the guides must be parallel.

Linear bearings are attached to the side wall of the gantry.

Several corner brackets provide additional rigidity to the structure.

The plate on the bottom of the portal has 6 holes drilled into it to attach it to the side plates. I had to drill two holes in the middle to attach the nut holder.

6. Y axis carriage

The Y-axis carriage consists of a single plate to which linear bearings are attached. Drilling the holes was quite simple, but great precision was required. Attached to this plate are bearings for both the Y-axis and the Z-axis. Since linear bearings are located close together, even the slightest movement causes them to seize. The carriage should slide easily from one side to the other. The rails and bearings need to be adjusted. High-precision digital instruments were used for alignment. Once the drive nut mount for the Y axis was done, two additional holes needed to be drilled in the plate to attach it.

7. Z axis

The Z-axis linear guides (rails) are attached to the moving part of the Z-axis assembly. The rails needed to be offset a few millimeters from the edge of the plate. To align them, two pieces of plastic of the required thickness were used as spacers. It was known for sure that the edges of the aluminum plate were parallel, so the author inserted pieces of plastic between the aluminum sides attached to the edge of the plate and the rails, moving the rails to the required equal distance, then marked the locations of the holes, drilled them and cut the internal threads.

To mount the top plate to the Z-axis assembly, three holes are drilled into the end of the mounting plate. It was not possible to attach the stepper motor directly to the plate, so I had to make a separate mount for the motor from plastic (see point 12).

Two blocks of bearing housings are made of the same plastic. The drive screw is a steel rod with an M10 thread. The timing belt pulley is drilled, tapped with an M10 thread, and simply bolted to the top of the drive screw. It is held in place by three set screws. The Delrin drive nut attaches to the Y-axis carriage.

The Delrin drive nut attaches to the Y-axis carriage.

The spindle mount was pre-ordered and has a 43mm clamp ring that matches the Kress used in the project.

If you want to use a water-cooled spindle, it often comes with a ready-made mount. You can also purchase the mounts separately if you want to use a Dewalt or Bosch barrel, or 3D print them.

8. Toothed belts and pulleys

Often the motors are mounted on the outside of the machine or on a separate stand. In this case, the motors can be connected directly to the ball screw using a flexible coupling. But, since the machine is located in a small room, external motors would be in the way.

This is why the motors are placed inside the car. It was impossible to directly connect the motors to the ball screws, so we had to use 9mm wide HTD5m timing belts and pulleys.

When using a belt drive, you can use a reduction gear to connect the motor to the drive screw, allowing you to use smaller motors and still get the same torque but less speed. Since the engines were chosen to be quite large, there was no need to reduce gears to obtain more power.

9. Engine mounts

The engine mounts are made from pieces of square aluminum tubing, custom cut to the required length. You can also take a steel tube and cut square pieces from it. The motor mounts for the X and Y axes must be able to extend and retract to tension the timing belts. The slots were made on a lathe and a large hole was drilled on one side of the mount, but you can also do this on a drill press.

The large hole on one side of the mount was cut out with an end saw. This allows the motor to sit flush with the surface and also ensures the shaft is centered. The motor is secured with M5 bolts. There are four slots on the other side of the mount to allow the motor to slide back and forth.

10. Bearing support blocks

The support blocks for the X and Y axes are made from 50mm round aluminum rod - cut into four pieces, each 15mm thick. After marking and drilling the four mounting holes, a large hole was drilled in the center of the workpiece. Then a cavity was made for the bearings. The bearings should be pressed and the blocks bolted to the end and side plates.

11. Z-axis drive nut support

Instead of a ball screw for the Z axis, an M10 threaded rod and a homemade nut from a piece of Delrin were used. Delrin polyformaldehyde is well suited for this purpose because it is self-lubricating and does not wear out over time. If you use a good quality tap for threading, the backlash will be minimal.

12. Supports for drive nuts on the X and Y axes

The drive mount is made of aluminum for the X and Y axes. Ball screw nuts have two small flanges with three holes on each side. One hole on each side is used to attach the nut to the holder. The holder is machined on a lathe with great precision. Once you have attached the nuts to the gantry and Y-axis carriage, you can try moving these parts from one side to the other by turning the ball screw by hand. If the dimensions of the holders are incorrect, the nut will jam.

Y axis mount.

13. Z axis motor mount

The Z axis motor mount is different from the others. It is cut from 12mm acrylic. The belt tension can be adjusted by loosening the two bolts on top and sliding the entire engine mount. For now, the acrylic mount works great, but in the future I'm thinking of replacing it with an aluminum one, because when the belt is tensioned, the acrylic plate bends slightly.

14. Work surface

An aluminum table with T-slots would be best, but it is expensive. The author of the project decided to use a perforated tabletop because it fits into the budget and gives many options for clamping the workpiece.

The table is made from a piece of 18mm thick birch plywood and is attached using M5 bolts and T-slot nuts to aluminum profiles. 150 M8 hex nuts were purchased. Using a CAD program, a mesh was drawn with hexagonal cutouts for these nuts. The CNC machine then cut all these holes for the nuts.

A piece of 25mm thick MDF was installed on top of a piece of birch plywood. This is a replaceable surface. A large router bit was used to cut the holes in both pieces. The holes in the MDF are aligned exactly with the center of the hexagonal holes cut earlier. The piece of MDF was then removed and all the nuts were installed into the holes in the plywood. The holes were slightly smaller than the nuts, so the nuts were driven into them with a hammer. Upon completion, the MDF returned to its place.

The table surface is parallel to the X and Y axes and is completely flat.

15. Electronics

The following components are used:

• Main power supply with output voltage 48V DC and output current 6.6 A;
• 3 stepper motor drivers Leadshine M542 V2.0;
• 3 stepper motors 3Nm hybrid Nema 23;
• interface board;
• relay - 4-32V DC, 25A/230 V AC;
• main switch;
• power supply for interface board 5V DC;
• power supply for cooling fans 12V DC;
• 2 Cooler Master Sleeve Bearing 80mm fans;
• 2 sockets - for spindle and vacuum cleaner;
• emergency shutdown button and limit switches (still not installed).

If you don't want to spend a lot of money buying equipment separately, you can buy it as a set. Before ordering, you should think about what size stepper motors you need. If you are building a small machine for cutting wood and plastic, then Nema 23, 1.9Nm stepper motors will provide enough power. 3Nm engines were chosen here because the machine itself is quite large and heavy, and the plan was also to handle materials like aluminum.

For small motors, you can buy a board for three motors, but it is better to use separate drivers. Leadshine's custom drivers feature a micro-stepping mode for maximum smoothness and reduced stepper motor vibration. The drivers in this design can handle a maximum of 4.2A and up to 125 microsteps.

A 5V DC voltage source is connected to the main power input. The fans have an electrical outlet inside the cabinet, so a standard 12-volt wall adapter is used to power them. The main power is turned on and off with a large switch.

The 25A relay is controlled by a computer via a breaker. The relay input terminals are connected to the breaker output terminals. The relay is connected to two electrical outlets that power the Kress and the vacuum cleaner to suck up the chips. When the G code ends with the M05 command, both the vacuum cleaner and the spindle are automatically turned off. To enable them, you can press F5 or use the G-code command M03.

16. Electronics cabinet

Electrical equipment needs a good cabinet. The author drew the approximate dimensions and locations of all the components on a piece of paper, trying to arrange them so that all terminals could be easily reached when connecting the wires. It is also important that there is sufficient air flow through the cabinet, as stepper controllers can get very hot.

According to the plan, all cables were to be connected at the rear of the case. Special 4-wire connectors were used to make it possible to disconnect the electronics from the machine without disconnecting any of the wire terminals. Two sockets were provided to supply power to the spindle and vacuum cleaner. Power sockets are connected to relays to automatically turn the spindle on and off based on Mach3 commands. There should have been a large switch on the front of the cabinet.

Parts for the cabinet are cut on the CNC machine itself

Next, after roughly laying out the parts, the body parts were designed in a CAD program. Then, on the machine itself, already assembled, all sides and the base are cut out. There is a lid on top of the cabinet, with a piece of plexiglass in the middle. After assembly, all components were installed inside.

17. Software

Mach3

To operate a CNC machine, three types of software are required.

• CAD program for creating drawings.
• CAM program for creating toolpaths and G-code output.
• And a controller program that reads the G-code and controls the router.

This project uses a simple program called CamBam. It has basic CAD functionality and is suitable for most DIY projects. At the same time, it is a CAM program. Before CamBam can create trajectories, you need to set several parameters. Examples of parameters: diameter of the tool used, depth of cut, depth per pass, cutting speed, etc. Once the toolpath is created, you can output a G-code that tells the machine what to do.

Drawing created in CamBam

The controller software uses Mach3. Mach3 transmits signals through the computer's parallel port to the interface board. Mach3 commands zero the cutting tool and start cutting programs. You can also use it to control spindle speed and cutting speed. Mach3 has several built-in wizards that you can use to output simple G-code files.

Tool path created by CamBam

18. Using the machine

The first to be produced were several clamps for fastening the materials being processed to the work table. And the first “big” project was an electronics cabinet (point 15).

As the first samples, several different types of gears and boxes for guitar picks were made.

Dust collector

It turned out that the CNC machine produces a lot of dust and is very noisy. To solve the dust problem, a dust collector is made, to which a vacuum cleaner can be attached.

3 Axis CNC Router

User's machine SörenS7.

Without a CNC router, many projects will remain unrealized. The author came to the conclusion that all machines cheaper than 2000 euros cannot provide the size of the working surface and the accuracy that he needs.

What was required:

• working area 900 x 400 x 120 mm;
• relatively quiet spindle, guaranteeing high power at low speeds;
• rigidity, as much as possible (for processing aluminum parts);
• high degree of accuracy;
• USB interface;
• cost less than 2000 euros.

These requirements were taken into account during the three-dimensional design. The main focus was on making sure all the parts fit together.

As a result, the decision was made to build a router with an aluminum extrusion frame, 15mm ball screws and NEMA 23 stepper motors, rated at 3A, which fit perfectly into the off-the-shelf mounting system.

All parts fit perfectly, and there is no need to make additional special parts.

1. Frame making

The X axis was assembled in minutes.

The HRC series linear guides are of very high quality, and immediately after installation it is clear that they will work perfectly.

Then the first problem arose: the drive screws did not fit into the bearing supports. Therefore, it was decided to cool the propellers with dry ice to reduce the size.

2. Installation of drive screws

After the ends of the screws were cooled with ice, they fit perfectly into the holders.

3: Electrical

The assembly of the mechanical part is complete, now it’s time for the electrical components.

Since the author knew Arduino well and wanted to provide full control via USB, the choice fell on Arduino Uno with a CNC Shield expansion board and DRV8825 stepper motor drivers. The installation was not difficult at all, and after setting the parameters, the machine began to be controlled from a PC.

But since the DRV8825 operates primarily at 1.9A and 36V (and gets very hot), it skips a step due to too little power. Long-term milling at high temperatures would hardly go well.

Next were the cheap Tb6560 drivers connected to the expansion board. The rated voltage turned out to be not very suitable for this board. An attempt was made to use a 36V power supply.

As a result, two drivers work normally, but the third one cannot withstand the higher voltage and turns the stepper motor rotor in only one direction.

I had to change the driver again.

The tbV6600 worked well. It is almost entirely enclosed by an aluminum radiator and is easy to set up. Now the stepper motors on the X and Y axes operate with a current of 2.2 A, and on the Z axis with 2.7 A.

It was necessary to protect the power supply of stepper motors and the frequency converter from small aluminum shavings. There are many solutions when the converter is placed quite far from the milling machine. The main problem is that these devices generate a lot of heat and require active cooling. An original solution was found: using 30 cm long pieces of tights as a protective sleeve, cheap and cheerful, and provides sufficient air flow.

4. Spindle

Choosing the right spindle is not easy. The first idea was to use a standard Kress1050 spindle, but it only has 1050 watts at 21,000 rpm, so I couldn't expect much power at lower speeds.

For dry milling of aluminum and steel parts, 6000-12000 rpm is required. A three-kilowatt VFD spindle with an inverter was purchased; with delivery from China it cost 335 euros.

This is quite a powerful spindle and easy to install. It is heavy - it weighs 9 kg, but the strong frame can withstand its weight.

5. Assembly complete

The machine does the job well, I had to tinker with the stepper motor drivers, but overall the result is satisfactory. 1,500 euros were spent and a machine was built that exactly meets the creator's needs.

The first milling project was a shaped recess cut in POM.

6: Modification for aluminum milling

Already when processing POM, it was clear that the torque on the Y-support was too high, and the machine was bending under high loads along the Y axis, so the author purchased a second guide and upgraded the portal accordingly.

After that everything returned to normal. The modification cost 120 euros.

Now you can mill aluminum too. The AlMg4.5Mn alloy produced very decent results without any cooling.

7. Conclusions

To create your own CNC machine, you don’t need to be a genius, everything is in our hands.

If everything is well planned, you don't need to have a ton of equipment and perfect working conditions, all you need is some money, a screwdriver, a grip and a drill press.

A month was spent developing the design using a CAD program and ordering and purchasing components, four months for assembly. The second machine would have taken much less time to build because the author had no machine tool experience and had to learn a lot about mechanics and electronics.

8. Accessories

Electrical:

All electrical parts were purchased on ebay.

• Arduino GRBL + CNC Shield: approximately 20 euros
• Stepper motor driver: 12 euros per piece.
• Power supply: 40 euros
• Stepper motors: approximately 20 euros each
• Spindle+inverter: 335 euros

Mechanics:

Linear bearings ARC 15 FN

Photo: www.dold-mechatronik.de

Linear guides AR/HR 15 - ZUSCHNITT

Photo: www.dold-mechatronik.de

Ball screws SFU1605-DM:

• 2x 1052mm
• 1x 600mm
• 1x 250mm

Photo: www.dold-mechatronik.de

Ball screw bearing holder FLB20-3200 including NEMA23 motor holder:

Photo: www.dold-mechatronik.de

Ball screw support LLB20

Photo: www.dold-mechatronik.de

Stepper motor-spindle couplings: from China for 2.5 euros per piece.

Frame:

Base profiles 160x16 I-Typ Nut 8

Photo: www.dold-mechatronik.de

Profiles for X axis 30x60 B-Typ Nut 8

Photo: www.dold-mechatronik.de

Y Axis Stepper Motor Mounting Profiles 30x60 B-Typ Nut 8

Photo: www.dold-mechatronik.de

Portal:

Profile 30x60 B-Typ Nut 8 for X-axis linear bearing 100 mm

Back plate: 5mm thick aluminum plate, 600x200.

Profile 30x60x60 B-Typ Nut 8 for Y: 2 pcs.

Photo: www.dold-mechatronik.de

Profile 30x30 B-Typ Nut 8

for Z:

Mounting plate - 5mm thick aluminum plate, dimensions 250x160

Sliding plate for spindle mounting - aluminum plate 5 mm thick, dimensions 200x160

9. Program

After a long search for a software solution, the convenient Estlcam program was chosen, with a license cost of 50 euros. The trial version of the program has all the features of the licensed version, but works slower.

This software is capable of reprogramming Arduino and has many functions, including the ability to control stepper motors directly.

Example: To search for the edge of a part, you need to connect wires to the contacts of the Arduino microcomputer and to the workpiece. If the workpiece does not conduct current, you can create a temporary conductive coating using foil.

After this, the program approaches the part from different sides and determines its boundaries at the moment of contact.

10. Upgrade

Temporary plastic brackets were installed on the Y and Z axes. The plastic was strong enough, but the staples could still break. Therefore, the author milled aluminum brackets for replacement. The result is shown in the photo.

11. Machine in operation

After some practice, the machine already gives very good results for a homemade product.

These pictures show a part made of AlMg4.5Mn alloy. It is completely milled. The second photo shows the result of the machine, without further processing by other means.

A VHM 6mm 3 flute end mill was used. When using 4 and 6 mm cutters, the machine achieves quite decent results. For its class of equipment, of course.

CNC table

For dessert, not a machine, but a useful and interesting homemade product for a machine, namely, a durable and roomy frame with shelves. If you don't already have a CNC machine, you can build one early and use it as a workbench.

Evan and Caitlin, site owners EvanAndKatelyn.com , updated their CNC machine table to add functionality and spaciousness.

The product was assembled entirely using screw connections, without the use of glue, in order to maintain the possibility of easy alteration and upgrade.

Tools and components used:

• Stop button;
• Roller lock;
• Countersink and bits;
• Drill;
• Electric screwdriver;
• Saw;
• X-Carve machine;
• Quarter-inch carbide-coated end mill;
• Quarter Inch Carbide 4 Flute Ball End Mill;
• Hearing protection.

Step 1: Preparation

Step one is to remove everything from the old table, starting with the machine and ending with a bunch of other things lying there, and partially disassemble it. Everything was completely dismantled except for two large shelves 120 x 120 cm, which were strengthened and made the basis of a new table.

Step 2: Strengthen the Shelves

Corner brackets were used on the four inside corners and L-shaped brackets were used along the crossbeam that runs along the bottom side.

In the photo below: comparison of a reinforced shelf with an unfinished one.

Step 3: Trim off the excess

Originally there were 4 racks rising above the top of the table because an additional shelf was planned above the machine. This idea was rejected, deciding to leave two out of four racks.

They were reinforced with corner brackets.

They placed a shelf on top of them and reinforced it with even more brackets.

Strength test.

Step 4: Pegboard - Toolbar

The updated piece of furniture needed to add as much storage space as possible, and one of the details that expanded its capabilities was a perforated panel in the holes of which tool holders are attached. The corners were cut out on the panel with a jigsaw.

Step 5: Bottom Shelves

For storage in the lower part it was necessary to leave as much space as possible, because... This is where the table saw and drum sander are stored. A lot of space was also needed to store materials, so it was decided to add a shelf, but make it easily removable. Wooden blocks and a sheet of plywood prepared for the legs came in handy.

The legs were attached to the plywood sheet with corner brackets, and the resulting shelf was inserted into the lower part. It's easy to remove when full-height storage is needed again.

Step 6: Top Shelves

The old bed had a top shelf for the computer that operated the machine and for various small things. There was still space left, and they decided to make another one under this shelf. It also helped cover the outlets and wiring for the machine.

The top shelf was placed on the ends of the racks and screwed.

In the second shelf, we used a jigsaw to cut out the corners for the legs.

And they also secured it with corners.

Step 7: Finishing Touches

A sign with the inscription “Call me” was screwed onto the end, which will later be replaced by a name invented by subscribers on YouTube.

Finally, everything that was in its predecessor was returned to the table.

There are many impressive projects of homemade machines, often the authors amaze with their skills and ingenious solutions. As a hobby, self-assembly of a CNC machine or 3D printer is superior to many other hobbies - both in terms of the usefulness of the result obtained, because you can do many wonderful things on the machine, and in terms of the benefits of the process itself - it is not only an exciting, but also an educational activity, helping to develop engineering skills.

We do not list individual models, since there are many of them, and for any purposes, tasks and existing installation and operating conditions, equipment must be selected individually, with which specialists will help you. Contact us!

So, you've decided to build a homemade CNC milling machine, or maybe you're just thinking about it and don't know where to start? There are many benefits to having a CNC machine. Home machines can mill and cut almost all materials. Whether you are an amateur or a craftsman, this opens up great horizons for creativity. The fact that one of the machines could end up in your workshop is even more tempting.

There are many reasons why people want to build their own DIY CNC router. As a rule, this happens because we simply cannot afford to buy it in a store or from a manufacturer, and this is not surprising, because the price for them is rather high. Or you can be like me and have a lot of fun with your own work and creating something unique. You can simply do this to gain experience in mechanical engineering.

Personal experience

When I first started developing, thinking through and making the first CNC router with my own hands, it took about one day to create the project. Then, when I started buying parts, I did some research. And I found some information in various sources and forums, which led to new questions:

• Do I really need ball screws, or will regular studs and nuts work just fine?
• Which linear bearing is best and can I afford it?
• What motor parameters do I need, and is it better to use a stepper or a servo drive?
• Does the body material deform too much when the machine size is large?
• And so on.

Fortunately, I was able to answer some of the questions thanks to my engineering and technical background left after my studies. However, many of the problems I would encounter could not be calculated. I just needed someone with practical experience and information on the subject.

Of course, I received many answers to my questions from different people, many of which contradicted each other. Then I had to do more research to figure out which answers were worthwhile and which were garbage.

Every time I had a question that I didn't know the answer to, I had to repeat the same process. By and large, this is due to the fact that I had a limited budget and wanted to take the best that my money could buy. This is the same situation for many people who create a homemade CNC milling machine.

Kits and kits for assembling CNC routers with your own hands

Yes, there are machine kits available for hand assembly, but I have yet to see one that can be customized to specific needs.

There is also no possibility to make changes to the design and type of machine, but there are many of them, and how do you know which one is right for you? No matter how good the instructions are, if the design is poorly thought out, then the final machine will be poor.

That's why you need to be aware of what you're building and understand the role each piece plays!

Management

This guide aims to prevent you from making the same mistakes that I wasted my precious time and money on.

We'll look at all the components down to the bolts, looking at the advantages and disadvantages of each type of each part. I will talk about every aspect of design and show you how to create a CNC milling machine with your own hands. I'll take you through the mechanics to the software and everything in between.

Keep in mind that homemade CNC machine plans offer few solutions to some problems. This often results in sloppy design or poor machine performance. That's why I suggest you read this guide first.

LET'S START

STEP 1: Key design decisions

First of all, the following questions need to be considered:

1. Determining a suitable design specifically for you (for example, if you make a woodworking machine with your own hands).
2. Required processing area.
3. Availability of work space.
4. Materials.
5. Tolerances.
6. Design methods.
7. Available tools.
8. Budget.

STEP 2: Base and X-Axis

The following questions are addressed here:

1. Design and build the main base or X-axis base.
2. Rigidly fixed parts.
3. Partially fixed parts, etc.

STEP 3: Design the Gantry Y Axis

1. Design and construction of the portal Y axis.
2. Breakdown of various structures into elements.
3. Forces and moments on the portal, etc.

STEP 4: Z Axis Assembly Diagram

The following questions are addressed here:

1. Design and assembly of Z axis assembly.
2. Forces and moments on the Z axis.
3. Linear rails/guides and bearing spacing.
4. Selecting a cable channel.

STEP 5: Linear Motion System

This paragraph addresses the following issues:

1. A detailed study of linear motion systems.
2. Selecting the right system specifically for your machine.
3. Design and construction of your own guides on a low budget.
4. Linear shaft and bushings or rails and blocks?

STEP 6: Mechanical Drive Components

This paragraph covers the following aspects:

1. Detailed overview of drive parts.
2. Selecting the right components for your machine type.
3. Stepper or servo motors.
4. Screws and ball screws.
5. Drive nuts.
6. Radial and thrust bearings.
7. Engine coupling and mount.
8. Direct drive or gearbox.
9. Racks and gears.
10. Calibration of propellers relative to engines.

STEP 7: Selecting Motors

In this step you need to consider:

1. Detailed review of CNC motors.
2. Types of CNC motors.
3. How stepper motors work.
4. Types of stepper motors.
5. How do servomotors work?
6. Types of servo motors.
7. NEMA standards.
8. Choosing the right motor type for your project.
9. Measuring motor parameters.

STEP 8: Cutting table design

1. Design and build your own tables on a low budget.
2. Perforated cutting layer.
3. Vacuum table.
4. Review of cutting table designs.
5. The table can be cut using a CNC wood router.

STEP 9: Spindle Parameters

This step addresses the following issues:

1. Review of CNC spindles.
2. Types and functions.
3. Pricing and costs.
4. Mounting and cooling options.
5. Cooling systems.
6. Creating your own spindle.
7. Calculation of chip load and cutting force.
8. Finding the optimal feed rate.

STEP 10: Electronics

This paragraph addresses the following issues:

1. Control Panel.
2. Electrical wiring and fuses.
3. Buttons and switches.
4. MPG and Jog circles.
5. Power supplies.

STEP 11: Program Controller Parameters

This step addresses the following issues:

1. Overview of the CNC controller.
2. Controller selection.
3. Available options.
4. Closed-loop and open-loop systems.
5. Controllers at an affordable price.
6. Creating your own controller from scratch.

STEP 12: Select Software

This paragraph addresses the following issues:

1. Review of CNC related software.
2. Selection of software.
3. CAM software.
4. CAD software.
5. NC Controller software.

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For many projects, a CNC router is necessary for good and fast results. After some research on the current CNC machines, I came to the conclusion that all the machines under 150k could not meet my needs in terms of workspace and accuracy.

What I want:

• working space 900 x 400 x 120 mm
• relatively quiet spindle with high power at low rotation speeds
• maximum possible rigidity (for milling aluminum parts)
• highest possible accuracy
• USB interface
• spend up to 150 thousand rubles

With these requirements, I began 3D design by developing schematics and drawings, testing the many parts available. The main requirement: the parts must fit together. In the end I decided to build the machine on a 30-B nut with 8 aluminum frames with 16mm ball bearing spindles, 15mm ball bearing guides and 3 amp NEMA23 stepper motors that fit easily into the off the shelf mounting system.

These parts fit together perfectly without the need for special parts.

Step 1: Build the Frame

The key is good planning...

A week after ordering, the spare parts arrived. And after a few minutes the X axis was ready. - Easier than I thought! The 15mm HRC linear bearings are very good quality and once installed you can immediately tell that they will perform very well.

After 2 hours, when assembling a CNC machine on Arduino with my own hands, the first problem appeared: the spindles do not want to get into the roller bearings. My freezer isn't big enough for the 1060mm spindles, so I decided to get dry ice, which meant putting the project on hold for a week.

Step 2: Setting up the spindles

A friend came over with a bag of dry ice, and after a few minutes of freezing, the spindles fit perfectly into the roller bearings. A few more screws and it looks a bit like a CNC machine.

Step 3: Electrical Parts

The mechanical part is finished and I move on to the electrical parts.

Since I am very familiar with Arduino and want full control via USB, I first chose an Arduino Uno with a GRBL shield and TB8825 steppers. This configuration works very simply and after a little setup the machine is PC controllable. Great!

But since the TB8825 runs at a maximum of 1.9A and 36V (gets very hot), this is enough to start the car, but I noticed a loss in steps due to too little power. The long milling process at this temperature is a nightmare.

I bought a cheap TB6560 from China (300 rubles each, delivery 3 weeks) and connected them to the GRBL shield. Voltage ratings are not very precise for this board, you will find ratings ranging from 12V to 32V. Since I already have a 36V power supply, I tried to adapt that.

Result: Two stepper drives work fine, one cannot handle higher voltage, and the other only turns in one direction (cannot change direction).

So, again in search of a good driver...

The TB6600 is my final decision. It is completely enclosed with an aluminum cooling cover and is easy to set up. Now my steppers work on the X and Y axes with 2.2A and on the Z axis with 2.7A. I could go up to 3A, but since I have a closed box to protect the circuits from aluminum dust, I decided to use 2.2A, which is sufficient for my needs and generates almost no heat. I also don't want the steppers to destroy the car if they make a mistake and I give them too much power.

I thought for a long time about a solution to protect the stepper power supply and frequency converter from small aluminum parts. There are many solutions when the inverter is mounted very high or at a sufficient distance from the milling machine. The main problem is that these devices generate a lot of heat and require active cooling. My final decision is my girlfriend's lovely tights. I cut them into 30cm pieces and used them as a protection hose, which is very easy and allows for good airflow.

Step 4: Spindle

Choosing the right spindle requires a lot of research. I initially thought about using the stock Kress1050 spindle, but since it only has 1050 watts at 21,000 rpm, I can't expect much power at lower speeds.

For my dry milling requirements on aluminum and maybe some steel parts, I need 6000-12000 rpm power.

That's why I finally chose a 3kW variable frequency drive from China (including a converter) for 25 thousand rubles.

The quality of the spindle is very good. It is quite powerful and easy to set up. I underestimated the weight at 9 kg, but fortunately my frame is strong enough and there are no problems with the heavy spindle. (High weight is the reason for 2.7A Z axis drive)

Step 5: Job Complete

Ready. The machine works very well, I had a few issues with the stepper drivers but overall I'm really happy with the result. I spent about 120 thousand rubles and I have a car that exactly suits my needs.

The first milling project was a negative shape in POM (Parallax occlusion mapping). The machine did a great job!

Step 6: Rework for Milling Aluminum

Already in the POM I saw that the torque on the Y-bearing is a little high and the machine bends under high forces around the Y axis. That's why I decided to buy a second rack and upgrade the gantry accordingly.

After this there is almost no play due to the force on the spindle. An excellent update and, of course, worth the money (10 thousand rubles).

Now I'm ready for aluminum. When working with AlMg4.5Mn I got very good results without any cooling.

Step 7: Conclusion

Building your own CNC machine isn't really rocket science. I have relatively poor working conditions and equipment, but with a good work plan all I need is a few bits, a screwdriver, clamps and a regular drill press. One month in CAD and purchase plan, and four months in assembly to complete the installation. Building a second machine would have been much faster, but without any prior knowledge in this area, I had to learn a lot about mechanics and electronics during this time.

Step 8: Details

Here you can find all the main parts of the machine. I would recommend AlMg4.5Mn alloys for all aluminum plates.

Electrical:
I bought all the electrical parts on Ebay.

• Arduino + GRBL-Shield: ~ 1500 rub.
• Stepper driver: 1000 RUR\pcs
• Power supply: 3000 rub.
• Stepper motors: ~ 1500 RUR\pcs
• Milling spindle + inverter: 25 thousand rubles.

Mechanical:

• Linear bearings: link
• Linear rails: link
• Ball circulation spindles: link
• 2x1052mm
• 1x600mm
• 1x250mm
• Fixed spindle bearings + stepper holder: link
• Floating bearing: link
• Spindle-pitch connections: ordered Chinese couplings for 180 rubles per piece

• Bottom profiles: link
• X-profiles for rails: link
• Y-profiles for installing X-axis stepper/spindle: link

Portal:

• Linear bearing profile X: link
• Back panel/Mounting panel: 5mm aluminum plate 600×200.
• Y-profiles: 2x link
• Z-profile: link
• Z-mounting plate: 5mm 250×160 aluminum plate
• Z-sliding plate for spindle mounting: 5mm 200×160 Aluminum plate

Step 9: Software

Having used CAD, then CAM and finally G-Code Sender I am very disappointed. After a long search for good software, I settled on Estlcam, which is very convenient, powerful and very affordable (3 thousand rubles).

It completely overwrites Arduino and controls stepper motors independently. There are many good documented features. The trial version provides full functionality of the software, only adding waiting time.

For example, searching for an edge. You just need to connect the wire to the Arduino A5 pin and to the workpiece (if not metal, then use aluminum foil to temporarily cover it). With machine control you can now press the routing tool against the work surface. As soon as the circuit is closed, the machine stops and sets the axle to zero. Very helpful! (usually no ground is needed because the spindle must be grounded)

Step 10: Improvement

Until now, the Y and Z axes had temporary plastic brackets to transmit the forces of the spindle nuts and move the milling spindle accordingly.

The plastic staples were made of durable plastic, but I don't trust them too much. Imagine that the Z-axis bracket will brake, the milling spindle will simply fall (obviously during the milling process).

That's why I have now made these brackets from aluminum alloy (AlMgSi). The result is attached in the picture. They are now much stronger than the plastic version I made before without a router.

Step 11: Machine in action

Now, with a little practice, a DIY wood CNC machine already gives very good results (for a hobby). These pictures show an AlMg4.5Mn nozzle. I had to mill it on both sides. The last photo shows what happened without polishing or sandpaper.

I used a VHM 6mm 3 blade bit. I have found that 4-6mm tools produce very good results on this machine.

Currently, you can purchase ready-made machines to equip your own workshop, but all this will be quite expensive. Homemade machines will help the master in his practical work, and will not burden his budget. Why buy something that you can do yourself, and even in relation to specific conditions.

Each owner chooses the equipment of his own workshop himself. It depends on the hobby, i.e. type of work and area of ​​the premises. Minimum area of ​​a home workshop in which it makes sense to place equipment is 3-4 m².

It can be located in a small room or on the balcony of an apartment, a separate building on its own site or in a garage. The ideal option is a secluded room where you can make noise without disturbing other people.

According to its purpose, a home workshop can be universal, i.e. to carry out any work that unexpectedly arises in everyday life, or have a specific direction, associated with the master’s hobby. Most often, workshops are equipped for working with wood, i.e. For carpentry work. Quite often there is a need for metal processing ( locksmith work) And car repair.

In general, setting up a home workshop includes the following elements:

• structures for storing tools and materials (racks, shelves, cabinets);
• equipment for work (workbenches, work tables);
• machines for processing materials;
• devices for mechanizing work, facilitating labor, preparing tools, etc.

The equipment must be placed so that there is access to it free approach, was observed safety and fire regulations, provided minimal comfort.

Shelves for tools and materials

Setting up your home workshop begins from installing practical shelves for a DIY tool. They can be made of metal or wood, or have a combined design - a metal frame with shelves made of wood, plywood, chipboard, plastic, etc.

The following stand out basic structures:

1. Racks in the form of a frame and shelves located at different heights.
2. Shelves mounted on the wall. They can be installed on brackets or attached with dowels directly to the wall surface.
3. Hanging shelves with ceiling mounting.

Practical shelf-boards have this design. The basis is a shield cut from plywood 8-12 mm thick.

There are 3 types of fasteners mounted on it:

• a rail with slots for placing tools with a handle in a vertical position (hammer, screwdrivers, chisels, etc.);
• shelves with a side for placing boxes with small tools (drills, taps, dies, etc.);
• hooks for hanging small tools (knife, scissors, measuring tool, etc.).

This shelf-shield is fixed to the wall using dowels.

Carpentry workbench

A carpenter's workbench is a durable table with a working surface on which to fix holdfast(2 pieces), clamps to secure the workpiece when planing with a plane, there are places for installation milling cutter and other manual machines.

Important. The dimensions of the workbench are selected based on practical considerations.

The height should ensure ease of work, taking into account the actual height of the master. The length should be at least 1 m (usually 1.7-2 m), and width - 70-80 cm.

Instructions for making a carpentry workbench:

1. The working surface is made in the form of a shield with tightly fitted boards with a thickness of at least 55 mm. Beech, oak, and hornbeam are best suited. They should first be soaked in drying oil. Strengthening is achieved with a beam measuring 4-5 cm, which is attached along the entire perimeter of the shield.
2. Vertical table supports can be made of pine or linden. Typically, a beam measuring 12x12 or 15x15 cm with a length of about 120-135 cm is used. The supporting elements are connected by horizontal jumpers made of a wide board, fixed at a height of 20-30 cm from the floor.
3. Tools and accessories are stored on shelves that are located under the lid. It is better to make them in the form of a cabinet with a door. Shelf panels can be placed on the wall above the workbench.
4. A pair of homemade or factory-made carpentry vices is attached to the working surface.

Reference. The workbench can be mobile (movable), folding (collapsible) or stationary. In the latter case, it is recommended to bury the supports into the ground by 15-20 cm.

Vise

For a homemade vice you will need a long screw rod with a diameter of at least 20 mm with a threaded part length of at least 14-16 cm, metal studs and wooden blocks.

Manufacturing is carried out in the following order:

1. A wooden block is cut out (possibly from pine) about 20x30 cm in size and at least 5 cm thick, in which a hole for a screw is drilled in the center, and at the bottom there are 2 holes for guide pins. This first vise jaw is permanently fixed to the work surface.
2. The second sponge is cut from a similar board and has dimensions of 20x18 cm. This will be a movable element.
3. A screw pin is passed through the jaws. To prevent displacement of elements, studs with a diameter of about 8-10 mm are fixed. A handle is installed on the screw rod.

How to make a metal workbench with your own hands?

To carry out plumbing work you will need a metal workbench. Its standard size: length 1.8-2.1 m, width – 0.7-0.8 m, height – 0.9-1.2 m. Manufacturing includes the following steps:

1. Assembling the workbench frame with imparting longitudinal rigidity.
2. Assembling and securing 2 cabinets in the form of a frame covered with a metal sheet.
3. Installation of the working surface - a wooden board covered with a metal sheet on top.
4. Installation of a tool rack, which is attached to the back of the workbench and further strengthens it.

• rack beams - profile pipe with a wall of at least 2 mm, size 4x6 cm. Needed - 4 pcs.;
• beams measuring 5x4 cm for horizontal linking of posts, providing longitudinal rigidity. Quantity – 3 pcs.;
• profiled pipe (9 pcs) for making a frame for cabinets measuring about 4x3 cm with a wall thickness of at least 1 mm;
• a 5x5 cm corner for vertical rack posts with a height of 1.5-2 m. For horizontal linking, you can use a 4x4 cm corner;
• board for the tabletop with a thickness of at least 5 cm;
• metal sheet for the working surface with a thickness of at least 6-8 mm.

Features of creating a wood lathe

A homemade lathe for working with wooden blanks includes the following elements:

1. bed. It must have sufficient strength. It is better to make it from a metal profile (pipe, corner), but it can also be made from a wooden beam. It is important to securely fasten the frame to the workshop floor and weight the structure at the bottom.
2. Headstock or clamping spindle. As this element of the machine, you can use a head from a high-power drill.
3. Tailstock. In order to ensure longitudinal feed of the workpiece, it is better to use a standard factory spindle with 3-4 cams.
4. Support or stop for cutters. It must provide reliable fastening and the ability to move towards the workpiece, which is ensured by a screw rod.
5. Tool table. A working surface should be formed on the bed on which cutters and other tools can be laid out.
6. Drive unit. To create torque, an electric motor with a rotation speed of 1500 rpm and a power of 250-400 W is used. You can use a motor from a washing machine. A belt drive is used as a transmission, for which pulleys of the required size are installed on the shafts.

Incisors

Even in a homemade lathe it is better to use factory cutters, which will provide increased quality. However, if you wish, you can do this on your own. Homemade cutters wood can be made from the following materials:

1. Steel reinforcement. The best option is a square section with a size close to the size of the factory tool.
2. Files. A worn tool is selected, but without significant defects.
3. car spring rectangular (square) section.

Prepared cutter blanks are sharpened. For roughing work, a semicircular cutting edge is used, and for finishing work, a cutter with a straight blade is needed. In addition, shaped and through cutters with specific sharpening may be required. Next, the cutting part requires hardening. To do this, it is heated and then lowered into engine oil.

Instructions for creating a stationary circular saw

The most important element of a stationary circular saw is reliable table with work surface. The most suitable for it is a metal sheet reinforced with stiffening ribs from a steel angle. The following parts are located on the worktop: cutting disc, guides, thrust and control elements.

Drive is provided electric motor power of about 0.8 kW with a minimum speed of 1700 rpm. Transmission – belt drive.

You can make a circular saw from the grinder in the following order:

1. Installation of the frame and production of the working surface. Cutting a space to install the disk.
2. Fastening parallel stops from wooden beams.
3. Installing a scale to adjust the cutting process.
4. Installation of clamps for fixing guides and workpieces.
5. Fastening the grinder from the bottom of the tabletop with the disk directed into the slot.

Assembling a homemade drilling machine

The procedure for assembling a homemade drilling machine shown in the video below. It is based on an electric drill, which is mounted on a frame with the possibility of vertical movement.

Main elements of the machine:

1. Electric drill.
2. Metal base with clamps for workpieces (clamps).
3. Stand for attaching a drill. It can be made from chipboard 2-2.5 cm thick. A good option is the base from an old photographic enlarger.
4. Feeding mechanism for cutting tools. Guide rails are installed on the stand to ensure strictly vertical movement of the drill. The easiest way to feed a tool is manual lever and springs. Adjustable stops are installed to control the depth.

CNC milling machines for wood and metal

When milling wooden parts software allows you to significantly expand the capabilities of the machine and the quality of processing. To form it, elements such as LPT port and CNC unit. To make a copy unit, you can use the carriages of an old dot matrix printer.

Assembling the wood router is carried out in the following order:

1. The tabletop is made of chipboard or plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm.
2. A cutout is made for the cutter and its installation.
3. The drive, transmission and spindle of the machine are secured.
4. Stops and limiters are installed.

Assembling a metal router requires stronger foundation for the machine:

1. Installation of a column and frame in the shape of the letter “P”. The elements are made from steel channel. In a U-shaped design, the bridge is formed by the base of the instrument itself.
2. The guide elements are made from angle steel and are bolted to the column.
3. The guide consoles are made of a rectangular pipe. A screw pin is inserted into them. The movement of the console is ensured using a car jack to a height of 12-15 cm.
4. The worktop is made of chipboard or plywood.
5. A vice, guides from a metal corner, and pin clamps are fixed on the tabletop.
6. The rotating part is installed so that the shaft is vertical.

Thicknesser

A homemade thicknessing machine for wood includes the following elements:

1. bed. It is made of 2 frames welded from a corner 40x40 or 50x50 mm. The frames are connected with studs.
2. Broach. Rubber squeezing rollers from a washing machine work well. They are mounted on bearings and rotated manually using a handle.
3. Working surface, table top. A wide board impregnated with drying oil is used, which is secured to the frame with bolts.
4. Drive unit. You need a three-phase electric motor with a power of 5-6 kW with a rotation speed of at least 3000 rpm.
5. casing. To protect the rotating parts, a casing of 4-5 mm thick steel sheet is installed, mounted on a frame made of 20x20 mm steel angle.

note

Can be used as a working body electric planer.

It is fixed with clamps on the working surface to form the required gap. This gap must be adjusted using shims and set taking into account the thickness of the workpiece.

Creating a wood sanding machine

A homemade grinding machine has drum design, i.e. a rotating cylinder with a emery cloth. It can be produced in the following varieties:

• surface grinding type that provides grinding in only one plane;
• planetary a type capable of processing a part in different directions, creating an even plane on it;
• cylindrical grinding type for processing cylindrical workpieces.

When securing the abrasive cloth, the following recommendations should be taken into account:

1. The width of the tape is selected about 20-25 cm.
2. The strips are connected end-to-end, without a gap.
3. To strengthen the joint seam, a thick tape is placed under it.
4. Only high quality glue should be used.
5. The shaft for the sanding strip has a side at the edges that protrudes by 2.5-4 mm.
6. It is recommended to use thin rubber (for example, a bicycle inner tube) as a backing for the abrasive element.

Rules for operating a wood jointer

A homemade jointing machine will help when repairing furniture and apartments. When using it, the following rules should be observed:

1. The jointer is adjusted in such a way that the maximum errors are ensured - vertically (perpendicular) - no more than 0.11 mm for every 1 cm; in plane - no more than 0.16 mm for every 1 m.
2. When processing workpieces smaller than 3.5x35 cm, pushers should be used to hold them.
3. Wear of the cutting element is indicated by scorching and moss on the surface of the part.
4. An uneven surface after machining indicates an inaccurate positioning of the cutting edges.

Homemade garage gadgets

In a home workshop equipped in a garage, you can repair your car yourself. In particular, the following homemade devices and machines are of interest.

Hydraulic jack press

He will help when removing and crimping silent blocks car. With its help, a load of several hundred kg is provided.

The structure consists of a frame and a hydraulic jack. The frame is welded from a high-strength rectangular pipe.

After lifting the car, it becomes a stationary, reliable support for the car.

This allows you to safely press out the jammed part using internal clips from the bearing.

Ball joint remover

It can be made in different ways:

1. Lever type. These are 2 levers connected in the center. On one side, a coupling bolt is installed on them. When acting on the support, it unscrews, bringing the ends of the levers closer together. In this case, one end is inserted between the support and the eye, the second - under the finger.
2. Option "wedge". A wedge-shaped workpiece is cut from a metal plate. From the side of the upper corner, a strictly vertical cut is made at 70% of the height. This wedge is installed between the ball joint and the eye. Then it is hammered in until the finger comes out of the socket.

It is difficult to manufacture; in addition to the technical components, it has an electronic device that only a specialist can install. Contrary to this opinion, the opportunity to assemble a CNC machine with your own hands is great if you prepare the necessary drawings, diagrams and component materials in advance.

Carrying out preparatory work

When designing a CNC with your own hands at home, you need to decide according to what scheme it will work.

Often a used one is used as the basis for a future device.

The drilling machine can be used as a basis for a CNC machine

It will require replacing the working head with a milling head.

The greatest difficulty when designing a CNC machine with your own hands is the creation of a device with which the working tool moves in three planes.

Carriages taken from a conventional printer will help partially solve the problem. The tool will be able to move in both planes. It is better to choose carriages for a CNC machine from a printer that has large dimensions.

Such a scheme allows you to later connect control to the machine. The downside is that a CNC milling machine only works with wooden, plastic, and thin metal products. This is due to the fact that the printer carriages do not have the required rigidity.

Attention must be paid to the engine of the future unit. Its role is reduced to moving the working tool. The quality of work and the ability to perform milling operations depend on this.

A good option for a homemade CNC router is a stepper motor.

An alternative to such an engine is an electric motor, previously improved and adjusted to the standards of the device.

Anyone using a stepper motor allows not to use a screw drive; this does not in any way affect the capabilities of such a CNC machine for wood. It is recommended to use toothed belts for milling on such a unit. Unlike standard belts, they do not slip on the pulleys.

It is necessary to correctly design the milling cutter of the future machine; for this you will need detailed drawings.

Materials and tools required for assembly

The general set of materials for a CNC machine includes:

• cable 14–19 m long;
• , wood processing;
• chuck for cutter;
• frequency converter having the same power as the spindle;
• bearings;
• control board;
• water pump;
• cooling hose;
• three stepper motors for three axes of structure movement;
• bolts;
• protective cable;
• screws;
• plywood, chipboard, wood board or metal structure to choose from as the body of the future device;
• soft type coupling.

When making your own, it is recommended to use a spindle with coolant. This will allow you not to turn it off every 10 minutes to cool down. A homemade CNC machine is suitable for the job; its power is at least 1.2 kW. The best option would be a 2 kW device.

The set of tools required for the manufacture of the unit includes:

• hammers;
• electrical tape;
• assembly keys;
• glue;
• screwdriver;
• soldering iron, sealant;
• grinder, it is often replaced with a hacksaw;
• pliers, welding unit, scissors, pliers.

Simple DIY CNC machine

Procedure for assembling the machine

A homemade CNC milling machine is assembled according to the following scheme:

• production of drawings and device diagrams indicating the electrical equipment system;
• purchase of materials containing a future homemade CNC machine;
• installation of the frame, on which the engines, working surface, portal, spindle will be mounted;
• portal installation;
• setting the Z axis;
• fixing the working surface;
• spindle installation;
• installation of a water cooling system;
• installation of electrical system;
• connecting the board, with its help the device is controlled;
• software configuration;
• starting start of the unit.

The base for the frame is a material made of aluminum.

The frame needs to be made from aluminum

Profiles made from this metal are selected with a cross-section of 41*81 mm with a plate thickness of 11 mm. The frame body itself is connected using aluminum corners.

The installation of the portal will determine how thick the product can be processed by the CNC machine. Especially if it is made by yourself. The higher the portal, the thicker the product it can process. It is important not to install it too high, as this design will be less durable and reliable. The portal moves along the X axis and carries the spindle.

An aluminum profile is used as the material for the working surface of the unit. Often they take a profile that has T-slots. For home use it is accepted; its thickness is at least 17 mm.

After the frame of the device is ready, begin installing the spindle. It is important to install it vertically, since it will need to be adjusted in the future; this is done to fix the required angle.

To install the electrical system, the following components must be present:

• power unit;
• computer;
• stepper motor;
• pay;
• stop button;
• motor drivers.

The system requires an LPT port to operate. In addition, it is installed that controls the operation of the device and allows you to answer the question of how to perform this or that operation. The control is connected via motors to the milling machine itself.

After the electronics are installed on the machine, you will need to download drivers and programs necessary for operation.

Common assembly errors

A common mistake when assembling a numerically controlled machine is the lack of a drawing, but assembly is carried out according to it. As a result, omissions arise in the design and installation of apparatus structures.

Often, incorrect operation of the machine is associated with an incorrectly selected frequency converter and spindle.

For correct operation of the machine, it is necessary to select the correct spindle

In many cases, stepper motors do not receive proper power, so a special separate power supply must be selected for them.

It is necessary to take into account that a correctly installed electrical circuit and software allows you to perform numerous operations of varying levels of complexity on the device. A mid-level craftsman can make a CNC machine with his own hands; the design of the unit has a number of features, but with the help of drawings it is not difficult to assemble the parts.

It’s easy to work with a CNC built by yourself; you need to study the information base, carry out a series of training works and analyze the condition of the unit and parts. Do not rush, jerk moving parts or open the CNC.

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