Music box for toys diagram. Music box mechanism

From time to time they order music boxes for me. This is a good gift for a memorable date. After all, every couple has their own melody? I want to tell you about such a box.

In general, I want to create my own mechanism for this, but for now I’m using the famous kikkerland 15. It has 15 voices and the melody itself is located on punched tape. I almost always have a couple of mechanisms in reserve. Fans have created a whole website with a collection of melodies.

The case is made of beech according to the customer's dimensions, usually I make very pocket-sized versions, here the size of the box is 100x100x70. The blanks were sawed down, the photo shows how the box was assembled.

Tape clamps are used to tighten the corners.

The lid, cut off with a margin, is glued on top.

Using a sander I give the lid the shape of a chest. And only after this the box is cut into halves and the mechanism is inserted inside.

We try on the tape; it should go into the box “blindly” without opening the lid.

The owner asked to have an engraving on the lid. No problem. All that remains is to clean the dust from the engraving and cover everything with varnish.

I am a lazy craftsman and I also make ribbons for the box using a laser. Although the kit comes with a special hole punch for this.

We try on the tape and listen to the melody. Everything worked out!

The ribbon fits completely into the box. It fits like an accordion into small boxes.

The hostess was pleased, for some reason this is very important to me. :)

If you have a production or service that you want to tell our readers about, write to Aslan ( [email protected] ) and we will make the best report that will be seen not only by readers of the community, but also of the site How it's done

People who prefer to make memorabilia and gifts themselves sooner or later think about how to make a box with their own hands. To do this, you do not need to have any special skills in a particular field. To work, you will need a set of tools and available materials: cardboard, fabric, plywood, glass, etc. You can also use old postcards or tin can from under cookies or tea.

Homemade box in the form of a cardboard book

You can make a cardboard box in just a few hours. For this you will need following materials and tools:

• binding cardboard;
• a piece of cotton fabric measuring 300 mm x 600 mm;
• thin padding polyester;
• scrap paper 300 mm x 300 mm;
• cotton lace 300 mm long and 30 mm wide, metal frame for decoration, etc.;
• quick-drying and non-marking adhesive;
• Double-sided tape;
• scissors;
• stationery knife;
• pencil;
• iron ruler.

All work is divided into several stages:

• preparatory;
• making the base;
• creating a “cover”;
• decoration.

Preparatory work

At this stage, you need to make all the necessary blanks from cardboard, fabric, padding polyester and paper for interior decoration. Eight elements need to be cut from the binding cardboard:

• 170 mm x 115 mm - 2 pcs.;
• 170 mm x 30 mm - 1 pc.;
• 160 mm x 110 mm - 1 pc.;
• 160 mm x 40 mm - 2 pcs.;
• 108 mm x 40 mm - 2 pcs.

Make blanks from padding polyester in advance with the following dimensions:

• 400 mm x 40 mm;
• 170 mm x 115 mm;
• 170 mm x 30 mm.

Working with the frame

Algorithm of actions:

Making the “cover”

Procedure:

Decor

To decorate a future box, it is advisable to choose any elements you like that can be sewn or glued. IN in this case tag, metal frame and lace were used.

Procedure:

From postcards

From old postcards with a similar theme, you can make a “chest” for storing photos. Necessary materials and tools:

• old postcards;
• threads (floss, knitting, iris);
• needle with a wide eye;
• scissors;
• pencil;
• ruler.

For manufacturing, it is advisable to use the drawings:

Using these drawings you need to create patterns. To do this, you need to transfer the elements onto postcards and cut out the details along the contour.

Algorithm of actions:

Classic plywood

For beginning craftsmen, the easiest way to make a box is from plywood. Required materials and tools:

Preparatory stage

Before proceeding directly to making the box, you need to cut several blanks from plywood with the following dimensions:

• 23 cm x 14 cm - 1 pc. (bottom of the box);
• 14 x 7 cm - 2 pcs. (end sides);
• 25 cm x 7 cm - 2 pcs. (sidewalls);
• 25 cm x 16 cm - 1 pc. (lid);
• 14 cm x 4 cm - 2 pcs. (external partitions);
• 14 cm x 9 cm - 1 pc. (outer cover No. 1);
• 14 x 7.5 cm - 1 pc. (outer cover No. 2).

You also need to make the parts in advance for assembling the small box, which will be located inside the box:

• 4.5 cm x 4.5 cm - 4 pcs.;
• 4.5 cm x 6 cm - 2 pcs.;
• 6 cm x 6 cm - 1 pc.

When cutting plywood with a jigsaw, the edges are uneven. Therefore, they need to be sanded, as well as the surface of the walls that will be inside the box.

Assembling the outer frame

At this stage it is necessary to assemble the base. Procedure:

Making a small box and a large lid

Procedure:

1. Make a small box using the same principle as a large one.

Firing and staining

Algorithm of actions:

1. Lightly burn the workpiece to form beautiful scorch marks.

To Work with blowtorch need to be very careful. Plywood should only be burned lightly to avoid the formation of unsightly burnt chips.

Glass wedding

Glass ring box can become a good gift for a wedding. For work you will need the following tools and materials:

• window glass 3 mm thick or stained glass;
• glass cutter;
• soldering iron;
• Sander;
• blue permanent marker;
• ruler;
• copper foil with black backing;
• flux;
• alcohol;
• natural sponge;
• solder;
• antioxidant.

The wedding box is made in the shape of an open icosahedron, which consists of regular triangles with sides equal to 6.5 cm and a height of 5.6 cm. To cut the glass correctly, you will need a pattern.

Procedure:

1. Place the pattern on the glass and trace the outlines with a marker.

2. Cut out the glass triangle along the contour using a glass cutter and a ruler. You need to press it hard enough to get even edges.

3. Turn the glass over reverse side, place it on the ruler and press to break off the resulting part.

4. Using the pattern for all the other cutouts glass elements boxes. There should be 15 triangles in total.

5. Inspect the edges of the parts for chips and irregularities.

6. To make the parts perfectly smooth, the edges should be sanded using a special grinder. In this case, you need to cover your eyes with safety glasses to prevent small fragments from getting into them.

7. The treated pieces of glass must be rinsed with water and dried naturally on a paper towel.

8. Before proceeding to decorating the elements with copper foil, you need to wipe each piece of glass with alcohol.

9. To decorate the details of the box with foil carefully, the glass must be placed in the middle of the ribbon.

10. Wrap the edges of the triangle with foil, pressing it tightly to the surface and smoothing it with any flat object.

11. Carry out this operation with all other parts.

12. Now you need to treat the edges with flux. To do this, you can use a cotton swab or brush.

13. Using a soldering iron, apply solder to the edges of the parts. It is important to ensure that the glass does not crack due to high temperature. During operation, the soldering iron must be periodically wiped with a sponge to remove burnt tin and carbon deposits from it.

14. Now is the time to start assembling the box. Parts are placed in angles.

15. To connect them together, you need to apply solder using a soldering iron at two points.

16. Gradually assemble the entire box.

17. Internal seams You also need to solder them so that they are even.

18. Make the external seams more voluminous by applying several layers of solder to them.

19. Sand the seams with steel wool until smooth.

20. Treat with an antioxidant to prevent oxidation and add shine.

With musical mechanism

A music box can be a great birthday gift. And for this you don’t have to buy it in a store; it’s easier to make it yourself.

For work you will need the following materials and tools:

• tin can (can be used for cookies or tea);
• putty for metal;
• acrylic primer;
• PVA glue;
• Matt lacquer;
• decoupage card with notes (or napkin);
• compressed cardboard 3 mm thick;
• velvet;
• jigsaw with jewelry file;
• scissors;
• brushes;
• glue gun;
• glue stick;
• ruler;

pencil.

You will also need a ready-made musical mechanism. It can be taken from old toy or buy at a specialty store.

All work will be divided into the following stages:

1. Formation of the external frame.
2. Interior decoration.

Tin can box base

Algorithm of actions:

1. Cover the surface of the can with automotive putty. After drying, sand and coat with primer in 1–2 layers.

2. Cover all parts of the box with decoupage napkin. You need to cut out a circle with the same diameter as the lid, taking into account the height and making a margin of 1-2 cm. Apply glue to the tin surface with a brush, apply a napkin, and smooth it out so that there are no wrinkles. Using the same principle, decorate the lower part of the box.

3. Make a hole for the musical mechanism where the key will be inserted.

4. After the surface has dried, you need to cover it with matte varnish in two layers. The frame of the box is ready.

Interior decoration

Procedure:

1. Cut out the bottom from cardboard. To cover it, you need to make a circle of velvet with the same diameter, but leave a small allowance. Glue the fabric to the cardboard base using a glue stick.

2. You will also need a box for the musical mechanism and a side panel. They are made according to the same principle as the bottom.

3. Secure the velvet parts inside the box using glue gun. First place the musical mechanism under the box.

4. If desired, additional compartments can be made from cardboard and velvet, for example, in the form of a box with an opening lid or a bag with drawstrings. And trim the outer sides with velvet ribbon.

5. On the inner surface of the lid you can glue a photo or any picture you like with a cardboard base that needs to be covered acrylic varnish. To hide the edges, attach a velvet ribbon and a satin cord around the perimeter of the circle, and hide the joint under a bow.

Making a box with your own hands from scrap materials is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. And suitable decor will help give it a finished look: beads, old unnecessary jewelry, stones for jewelry, buttons, shells, ribbons, labels, etc.

If you hold the musical mechanism in your fist, its sounds will be barely audible. Only if you attach it to a board that serves as a resonator, will it fill the room with melodic ringing. Place it in a beautiful box, and its lucky owner will enjoy a serenade every time she opens the maple lid.

From the accessories, in addition to the musical mechanism, you only need a pair of brass hinges with an opening limiter that holds the lid vertically while the music is playing.

• Overall dimensions: width - 229 mm; depth - 165 mm; height - 73 mm.
• Dowels strengthen connections and create contrasting accents.
• Open the lid to hear the melody and see the brass mechanism in a compartment with a transparent window.
• The musical mechanisms sound different, and you can choose one with the melody you like.

Create the body of the box

1. From a 19 mm board, cut a 67x254 mm blank for the front wall A and two blanks 67×178 mm for the side walls IN.

2. A straight 12mm cutter installed in milling table, make a rebate at the rear end of each side wall B (Fig. 1).

3. Move the router table rip fence to create a 10mm rebate for the lid on the inside of the front A and lateral IN walls (Fig. 1, 2). Please note that the side walls must be mirror copies of each other.

4. File the bevels at the ends of the front wall A, giving it a final length of 229 mm (Fig. 1). Then make bevels at the front end of each side wall IN so that their length becomes 165 mm.

5. File the back wall WITH in width, taking into account the distance from the lower edge of the side wall IN to the edge of the lid fold (Fig. 1, 2). To determine the length of the back wall, dry connect (without glue) the front A and lateral IN walls, fastening them masking tape. Adjust the length of the back wall to the distance between the folds of the side walls.

6. Using a straight 6mm router bit set into a router table, cut into the front, back and side walls. A, B, C tongue 6×5 mm for inserting the bottom D (Fig. 1 And 2).

How to make a recess in the front wall

1. To make a recess for the lid handle I, make a template the same size as the front wall A, from 12 mm plywood (Fig. 1a). Cut a cutout in the template and attach the template to the front wall with double-sided tape A, aligning the edges.

2. Attach a 6mm straight bit to the router collet. Then install the 12mm copy sleeve.

Note. The router bit should be long enough to protrude 27mm from the router sole.

3. Place the front wall A with a template attached to it on an anti-friction mat or secure it on a workbench with double-sided tape. Set the routing depth to 1.5 mm and make a cut along the edge of the cutout in the template (photo A). Using a sharp knife or chisel, make cuts along the edges of the resulting shallow depression so that when removing the rest of the material, chips do not appear on the edge (photo B). Trim the inner corners of the recess with a chisel.

After removing some material with a cutter, make cuts on the edges of the recesses on the top side of part A sharp knife. Mill further to a depth of 14 mm to create a recess with a cutout for the handle in the upper edge of wall A.

4. To determine the dimensions of the bottom D dry assemble the walls and measure inner dimensions boxes. Add 5mm to each dimension and cut the bottom out of 6mm plywood. Sand it down internal sides all walls and bottom sandpaper № 220.

5. Assemble the box (photo C). Don't glue the bottom D into tongues so that it can freely change its size with changes in humidity.

Glue the back wall C to the side walls B and clamp the assembly with a clamp. Slide bottom D into the tongues. Add front wall A and fasten corner connections on the mustache with strips of masking tape.

Place 16mm deep cuts at the top of the walls. Lift the discs and turn the body over in the jig to make bottom cuts 22mm deep.

Add accents

1. To make slots for contrasting dowels, make a jig (photoD). Secure the box to the fixture with clamps and make cuts for the keys (Fig. 1). Standard disk for rip sawing or a blade with alternating pointed and flat tooth tips produces flat-bottomed cuts. If the bottom of the cut is uneven, read the “Tip from the Expert”, which describes how to solve the problem.

Flat bottom cuts. A saw blade with alternating sharpening of teeth, the tops of which are beveled to the right or left, leaves a triangular protrusion at the bottom of the cut, which prevents the keys from fitting tightly. To fix the problem, sharpen or sand a thin strip so that it fits easily into the cut. Glue a narrow strip of 150-grit sandpaper to its edge, which can be used to easily remove the interfering protrusion.

2. Plane or saw and sand the 25x430 mm maple stock to the required thickness so that it fits snugly into the cuts. Cut the workpiece into dowels E specified length and glue them into the cuts. Make sure each key is inserted all the way and rests against the bottom of the cut.

3. For legs F cut the workpiece 3x45x254 mm. Saw off the legs of the specified length and make bevels at two corners (Fig. 4).

Align the cut corners of the legs F with the marks on the bottom edges of the walls. When tightening the clamps, make sure that the legs do not move out of place.

4. Turn the box over and place marks 38mm from each corner (photo E). Glue the legs F into place, aligning with these marks. Once the glue has dried, use a fine-toothed hacksaw to remove the protruding edges of the dowels. E and legs. Sand the dowels and legs flush with the sides of the box with 150-grit sandpaper.

5. Saw out the insert G according to the size of the recess in the front wall and glue it in place (Fig. 2, 4).

File the bevels on the walls

1. Attach a long 38mm thick piece of wood to the crosscut head. Install saw blade at an angle of 8°, lower it, then turn on the machine and raise the blade to make a cut in the new blank for the splinter guard (Fig. 3).

Raise the blade to a height of 70 mm and make a cut in the cross fence pad.

Before sawing the bevels on the side walls B, make a bevel at the same angle on the front side of the cross fence pad so that it fits snugly against the front and back walls A, C.

2. The cut in the trim will help to correctly orient the box when filing bevels on the front and rear walls A, C (Fig. 3). Remove most of the material on the first pass, and then make another pass so that the disc goes along the bottom edge of the leg F.

3. Remove the cross fence pad and file an 8° bevel on one of its edges. Reattach the pad to the fence with its narrow edge at the bottom (photoF). File the bevels on the side walls C in the same way as previously on the longitudinal ones. Then sand external sides all walls with sandpaper No. 220.

Tackle the lid

1. Determine the dimensions of the cover N, measuring the distance from the rear edge of the rear wall C to the front edge of the front wall fold A. Reduce it by 2mm to get the width of the lid. Cover length 3mm less distance between the outer edges of the side wall folds IN. When filing the lid blank to the width, make a bevel on the rear edge at an angle of 8°, corresponding to the bevel on the back wall (Fig. 4).

2. Saw out the handle I. Glue it to the lid N, aligned in the middle and flush with bottom side covers (Fig. 4).

3. Make indentations for the hinges as described in the “Artisan’s Tip” below.

Make perfectly matching recesses for the hinges in the lid and wall of the box using a template and copy sleeve for your router.

Cut a template from 12mm plywood that fits snugly into the folds on the top side of the box. Attach the straight cutter to the router collet and install the copy sleeve.

To ensure that the recesses exactly match the thickness of the hinges, adjust the routing depth using the hinges themselves. Place two loops under the template to the right and left of the cutout. Lower the bit until it touches the surface of the workbench and lock the depth setting. Attach the template to the box and mill out the recesses.

Align the same template with the center of the lid, pressing it against the lid with the same side that was adjacent to the box, and secure. Mill out the recesses for the hinges in the lid. Trim the corners of all four recesses with a chisel.

On the back edge of each recess, grind a small chamfer to accommodate the hinge cylinder. Drill into the back wall WITH and lid N 1.6mm diameter guide holes and attach the hinges with screws. (Check the length of the screws before screwing them into the cover. If they can go all the way through the cover, shorten them.)

Before installing the shortened screws, tap the holes by inserting a steel screw of the same size and then removing it.

And now some music

1. Cut out a template from thin cardboard to the size of the base of the musical mechanism. Mark the centers of the holes for the winding key, sound channel and mounting screws on the template.

Instead of measuring distances in a cramped box body, cut spacers from scraps to accurately position the musical mechanism mounting template.

2. Place the template inside the box (photoG). Use an awl to mark the centers of the holes at the bottom.

3. To avoid chipping when drilling through holes, press a piece of board to the bottom of the box from below. For the movement we had, we made a sound channel with a diameter of 13 mm and a 5 mm hole for the winding key. Drill the mounting holes, slightly increasing their diameter to fine-tune the position of the mechanism.

4. From a 10 mm blank, cut out the front/back J and lateral TO internal walls enclosing the mechanism (Fig. 4). Bevel one end of the front and back walls, giving the pieces their final length. Then file the bevels at both ends of the side wall to a final length of 76mm. Make a small cutout in the front wall J, through which the wire lever of the musical mechanism will be passed.

5. Sand the inner walls J, K 220-grit sandpaper and glue them together, securing the corners with masking tape and inserting a temporary spacer to make the assembly rectangular.

6. When making a transparent cover, attach a piece of 3mm acrylic plexiglass To carrier board so that there are no chips or cracks in it. Cut a rectangle according to the outer dimensions of the box (Fig. 4). Make the edges of the plexiglass smooth using 400-grit dry and wet sandpaper.

7. Place the plexiglass on the inner walls and use a thin marker to mark the centers of the screw holes in the middle of each wall J, K. Drill 2.8mm holes in these areas and then countersink them. Attach the transparent lid to the inner walls with screws, and then glue the box to the bottom D.

Ceremonial completion

Use needle-nose pliers to bend the trigger lever so that the tune plays when the lid is opened and fades out when the lid is closed.

1. Remove the hinges and transparent cover. Sand all parts with 220-grit sandpaper. Then begin finishing. We sprayed three coats of semi-gloss nitro varnish, smoothing each dry coat with #0000 steel wool.

2. Install the musical mechanism into the housing. Gently bend the wire trigger so that the mechanism stops when the wire touches the bottom of the fold in the side wall B (photo N).