Indispensable home helpers for farming lovers are mini-greenhouses for the home with your own hands. Do-it-yourself greenhouse: drawings, how to make, options Do-it-yourself small greenhouse from boards

Having even a small plot of land, it is difficult to do without a greenhouse. Grow seedlings, get an early harvest, protect them from possible frost, from heat, make the plants bloom earlier - all this can be done with the help of this device. Moreover, making a greenhouse with your own hands is not difficult. There are very simple designs, there are more complex ones, but the manufacture of any of them does not require special education.

The frame for a greenhouse can be made of wood (boards), metal (angle, profile pipe or fittings) or PVC pipes (round or square). Cover the greenhouse with the same materials as : film, spunbond (also called agrofibre or non-woven covering material), polycarbonate and glass. Since the size of greenhouses is smaller (plants in greenhouses are maintained from the outside), the requirements for them are not so stringent: even strong winds are not afraid of them.

Greenhouse sizes

Since in a greenhouse the plants are served from the outside, its width is chosen so that it is comfortable for you to process plants planted closer to the middle. You determine this experimentally: sit down and try to reach some area with your hand. Measure the distance. You get the width of the greenhouse with a one-sided approach. This is if the greenhouse is located in such a way that it is impossible to get to it from the other side (near a wall, for example). If you can approach from both sides, you double this result.

The distance is different for each person: height and physical condition affect. You should not chase savings by making it wider than necessary. You will have to spend a lot of time weeding, loosening, fertilizing, and other work. A couple of hours in an uncomfortable position, and there is no strength left. Therefore, it is better to make the greenhouse a little narrower, but to make it convenient to work: while enjoying your work, you spend less effort.

And the length of the greenhouse is chosen based on the layout of the site. It's arbitrary.

A simple greenhouse made of arcs under film or spunbond

This greenhouse is made of several boards, knocked down to the required dimensions, arcs of PVC pipes, which are attached to a wooden base. The tops of these arcs are connected at the top by a beam or the same pipe. If it is a timber, it needs to be well processed, rounding the edges so that the film does not tear.

How to secure the arches

How to attach arcs of PVC pipes to a greenhouse frame. They are most often secured using metal perforated tape. Take a small piece of it about 5-6 centimeters, screws and a screwdriver. And they are secured on both sides. To be on the safe side, you can do it twice.

In exactly the same way, you can fasten them from the inside to hold them tighter by adding bars.

Another option: drive in pieces of reinforcement near the frame, place pipes on them and only then secure them with clamps to the frame boards. This option is more reliable.

How to attach the film

You can attach the film to PVC pipes using double-sided tape. But only if inexpensive polyethylene film was used: it is impossible to tear it off without damaging it, and polyethylene lasts no more than a year. So for a seasonal greenhouse this is a “cheap and cheerful” option. The second method is special clips for fixing films and anything that can replace them - a piece of an old hose cut lengthwise, a clamp for pipes that are used for installing pipelines, office binders, etc.

It also makes sense to secure a block on both sides along the edges of the film. To do this, the film is cut to a length greater than necessary, a block is wrapped in the excess and the film is secured to it. Now you have a piece of film with bars attached to its short sides. Leave one on one side, throw the second on the other. Now you don’t need to press the film to the ground with stones: the block holds it well. It is also convenient to open the greenhouse for ventilation; wrap the film and place it on top.

You can use small nails to attach the film, but place washers under the caps. It is faster to work with a construction stapler with staples. To prevent the film from tearing at the attachment points, it is padded with something. You can use thick braid or just a strip of fabric, and hammer fasteners into it.

More powerful option

If there is a need to make a greenhouse with PVC arches more reliable, wooden posts are nailed to the board base in the center of the short side. A board is attached to them on the edge, in which holes are pre-drilled with a diameter larger than the outer diameter of the pipes.

During installation, the pipe is threaded through the hole. You can fasten it on the sides as suggested above, or you can do it another way: first install pins in the bars and put the pipe on them.

The simplest greenhouse

The good thing about PVC pipes is that they are easy to bend. Also because they weigh little. An ideal option for a lightweight, portable greenhouse, especially if combined with spunbond. This material can be sewn. Take a piece with a density of 30 kg/m2 and make drawstrings in it in increments of 50-60 cm. For the drawstring, stitch across a strip of the same material about 10 cm wide (it is stitched on both sides). Insert pipes cut into the required lengths inside.

Now all this can be installed on the bed: stick pegs in two rows on one side and the other of the bed, and place a pipe on them. You immediately get a ready-made greenhouse. And what’s more convenient: you open and close the plants simply by collecting or straightening the spunbond on the arc. This is a very convenient temporary greenhouse: as soon as it is not needed, it can be removed and folded in a couple of minutes.

Greenhouse - it couldn't be simpler

This greenhouse is good for seedlings, but you can make it for peppers and eggplants. A stand is nailed in the middle of the base. There are two inclined boards attached to it. The cross section results in a triangle. If you need a long greenhouse, the same structure is installed approximately every meter. All tops are connected with a long bar or pipe. This greenhouse has a simple and convenient design.

Cucumbers are grown with it only until they begin to curl. Under the cucumbers, the covering material is removed, posts are nailed (screwed) to the sides, and twine is pulled between them.

Greenhouse “Breadbox” and “Butterfly” - photo

This design is called a “bread box” because it looks exactly like a plastic bread container. Its lid also rises up, hiding behind the second half. If you look at the photo, you will understand everything.

There are two types of such products: opening on one or both sides. If it is shallow, you can work with a lid that opens on one side. If the width is more than a meter, it will be easier to work if there is access from both sides. This design with two opening sides has its own name: “Snail”.

A film or spunbond is stretched over the manufactured frame, but polycarbonate is more popular for this design.

The second design differs in the type of door opening. Its vault is also made on arches, but opens on hinges upward (see picture).

They can be installed directly on the ground or on a prepared foundation made of bricks or timber. In some cases, the lids do not open immediately from the ground, but there is a small side of 15-20 cm.

From scrap materials

Turning unnecessary things into useful products - our people have no equal in this. They make greenhouses from things you would never even think of.

For example, you can easily make a greenhouse with your own hands from old window frames. When replacing windows, do not rush to throw them away. They can be used to make an excellent greenhouse. Moreover, the designs may be different. The simplest is a body made of boards, to which a window frame (with glass, of course) is attached on top as a lid.

To ensure that the plants receive maximum light, one side of the frame is made higher (which faces south or east). There are different frames, any of them can be used for these purposes. As proof, here is a photo gallery of greenhouses made from frames that were made with their own hands by zealous owners.

They make greenhouses out of barrels. Cover with an old umbrella made of transparent film or cut-off plastic water cans.

A homemade greenhouse can be made from a plastic or foam box. Although “do” is a strong word. All you need to do is stretch the film.

Mini-greenhouses for seedlings

For those who grow seedlings for their own vegetable garden or flower garden, large volumes are useless. We need small greenhouses. Moreover, many grow seedlings on balconies. All of the above designs can be used for a balcony in reduced sizes. For very small plantings, you can even take plastic egg trays. On one side there will be a container for soil and a lid instead of a shelter. Look at the photos for other ideas.

The use of plastic bottles is already common, only the shape is non-standard. The bottle is only cut and a glass with seedlings is inserted inside, or you can plant it directly in the lower part... And this is a portable mini-greenhouse for plants

You can assemble a greenhouse with your own hands in a few hours. There is no need to build any complex structures. Everything is very simple, economical and practical.

Can be assembled with minimal labor. Therefore, today we will discuss the best ideas on how to make greenhouses with your own hands. We will show the best projects in photo shoots and master classes.

The first and most important way a greenhouse differs from a greenhouse is the lack of heating in winter. The greenhouse design is purely seasonal. However, in the southern regions, where the temperature is above zero all year round, greenhouses are used constantly.

There are several varieties of them. The most popular and easy to manufacture greenhouses are the “Agronomist” type. Although such structures have different names, the variation in execution does not change - a simple low frame made of plastic pipes or wood, dug into the ground. This structure is covered with a film on top. Frames are made for strengthening.

More “serious” designs are greenhouses with a mechanism for opening the doors. There are several varieties - “Chest”. All of them are presented in the photo below.

Full-size greenhouses for seasonal growing of tall plants are also popular among gardeners. Outwardly, they resemble greenhouses, but the main “ingredient” is missing - a heating system.

Related article:

Standard dimensions, what the design is, its advantages and disadvantages, materials used in manufacturing, features of independent development of a drawing and assembly of a polycarbonate greenhouse - read in our publication.

Review of winter greenhouse projects for DIY construction

In fact, you can make heated greenhouses for your dacha with your own hands in absolutely any configuration. The main thing is that the structure is completely sealed and present. Also another condition is the arrangement. It is desirable that it be monolithic and raised above the ground by at least 15 cm.

The best cladding material for such greenhouse structures is glass or more affordable and easy-to-process polycarbonate. At the same time, it retains heat indoors more effectively, which can also lead to air staleness. Therefore, even at the design stage, it is necessary to think through not only the heating system, but also for the winter period.

Review of the best projects for DIY greenhouse heating

The first thing you should know about heating a greenhouse yourself is that not only warm air is important for plant growth. Therefore, the best projects involve heating the soil, which will also provide more comfortable conditions. Let's look at what options there are for heating greenhouses:

1. – the simplest and most economical heating system. Ideal for ground heating. But its device is more suitable for buildings located near the main house.
2. Electricity- a very expensive heating method, if we consider it in the variation of heat supply from. It’s another matter if the heating system is organized by a pump that works with water, soil or air. If there is a body of water nearby, then it is best to use the “water-water” scheme. “Ground-water” is the most expensive option, but also effective. “Air-water” is cheaper, but it depends on climatic conditions. At frosts from -25°C the system fails.
3. Gas- another common method of heating greenhouses. And the cheapest, which may not seem at first glance. But there is one caveat: when heated by gas, a large amount of carbon dioxide is released, so there is a risk of burning the air. Therefore, when the system always works out.
4. Biofuel- the most economical and simplest way to install heating yourself. The process of decay releases heat, which is necessary for plant growth. The humus is simply placed under the soil, and after a few months it is renewed. True, in the northern regions of the country this method is not enough. It can be used for small greenhouse areas.

The video below will tell you how to choose the best way to heat a greenhouse built with your own hands.

What is the “skeleton” of greenhouses and greenhouses made of?

Frames for both greenhouses and greenhouses are made from the same materials:

1. Tree- not the cheapest option, but reliable if designed and processed correctly. To prevent the frame from rotting, it is necessary that the tree does not come into contact with the ground and is about 30 cm higher above it. Painting and varnishing are also required. But remember that wood is still an organic material, which in a couple of years will shrink, dry out, and repair work will have to be done. It is slowly moving away from its role as the main frame material for greenhouses and greenhouses.
2. Metal- a more reliable option for the frame. Both strips and profiles, painted or galvanized, are used. The downside is the heaviness of the frame and the obligatory arrangement of a good one. Perhaps the most expensive material for the frame of a greenhouse system.
3. Plastic pipes– relatively recently they began to make various objects and spatial figures. As the main frame material for greenhouses and greenhouses, such pipes have shown themselves to be good - easy to process, light weight, flexible, and the ability to manufacture even complex structures. They also need a foundation and additional reinforcement of the structure. Among the minuses, it can be noted that only films and maximum polycarbonate can be used as a covering material. Such a frame simply cannot withstand glazing.

You can only buy a polycarbonate greenhouse with a metal frame. Manufacturing enterprises do not make such structures from pipes. This is the lot of only “handy gardeners”.

Polycarbonate is an ideal material for making simple greenhouses and winter greenhouses yourself

Polycarbonate greenhouses are incredibly popular today. How did such material deserve people's love? There are several reasons why you should choose, which the video after the description will also tell you about:

• the honeycomb structure filled with air makes polycarbonate a heat-retaining covering material;
• light transmittance;
• flexibility - you can sheathe the frame of any shape;
• accessibility of installation - easy to process and install using simple fasteners - self-tapping screws, bolts;
• durability – service life can be up to 20 years;
• not susceptible to weather influences;
• resistance to mechanical damage;
• relatively inexpensive material.

Is polycarbonate really the ideal building material? No, as we know, everything in this world is imperfect. One of the main disadvantages is flammability; under the influence of fire, and even just high temperature, it begins to melt.

Also, professionals in plant growing try, despite all the tempting advantages of polycarbonate, to avoid it due to its high reflectivity. If there is one, then less light will pass inside. If this is not critical for greenhouses, then for professional greenhouses it is a real disaster.

Also, polycarbonate does not “breathe” at all. This, of course, is a definite plus - a stable warm and humid microclimate develops inside the greenhouse, just as plants love. But, on the other hand, they also vitally need fresh air in any weather. This problem is solved by installing windows and other windows, walls and doors. However, if you do not open such a greenhouse for a long time, the plants there may simply die from the stuffiness.

Polycarbonate is a popular type of building material with a wide variety of types. And not every type is suitable for sheathing a finished structure. What to pay attention to:

1. Only honeycomb sheets are suitable, since they retain heat better due to the additional air layer, which is not found in monolithic material.
2. Also pay attention to the cells. Usually they have a square shape, but it is better if each of them also has a diagonal partition, which provides additional rigidity to the sheet.
3. It is also better to give preference to ordinary transparent material, since it has the highest percentage of light transmission. Colored sheets can absorb it by 60%, which will only destroy the plants in the greenhouse.
4. Be sure to pay attention to UV protection, as prolonged exposure to the sun can warp polycarbonate. If the manufacturer claims that it exists, but only inside, this means that its level is minimal. Sheets on which there is a protective film, with the manufacturer’s recommendation for installing the sheet with a certain side facing outwards, are a guarantee of the protective layer.
5. The optimal thickness for constructing both greenhouses and greenhouses of various modifications is from 4 to 10 mm with a lathing pitch of 700-1050 mm. These are optimal characteristics that allow the construction of reliable structures.
6. Also of great importance when choosing such a material is its specific density. The greater the weight of the sheet, the higher its density, which means the greater the strength. The optimal density is from 0.7 kg/m2.
7. High-quality material does not allow any, even the smallest, defects on the surface. Also, the stiffening ribs must run strictly along straight lines, no waves or zigzags.
8. If the sheets were stored correctly, then their quality percentage did not drop. Proper storage is the arrangement of flat sheets in a horizontal position. If the polycarbonate stood on its edge or was wound in rolls, it is better not to take such material.

Related article:

. Dimensions, prices of products from leading manufacturers, characteristics, varieties, pros and cons of different designs, features of assembly and use, user reviews - read in our publication.

The foundation is the head of everything, or when you need a foundation for greenhouses and greenhouses

The foundation sounds proud and solid. But is it needed when constructing greenhouses and greenhouses? This depends directly on the type and size of the structure. When constructing a mini-greenhouse, for example, a “Breadbox,” laying the foundation is not required. Some people simply place such a structure on the ground. But this is not always advisable, since such polycarbonate structures are relatively light in weight. Therefore, it is recommended to mount it on, which, if necessary, is dug into the ground. Small improvised ones are mounted without a foundation at all. For structural rigidity, it is preferable to “mount” the arches on pre-dug ones.

Today, growing arched greenhouses made of polycarbonate are at the peak of popularity. In fact, the weight of such a structure measuring 3x6 meters is 100 kg. This means that approximately every square meter of the structure experiences a load of 10 kg. By construction standards, this is simply a “ridiculous” load, which is not even taken into account in the calculations. But guided by the unpredictable climate of our country and the experience of summer residents, such greenhouses are blown away by a good gust of wind. No, not to the Emerald City, of course, at most to the neighboring site. But such an unplanned flight can cause a lot of damage. Therefore, when constructing large greenhouses, it is best to make full-fledged foundations on or sand blocks.

And, of course, for stationary greenhouses a solid foundation is simply necessary. Firstly, it will remove the load and distribute it evenly throughout the entire structure, which guarantees a longer service life. Secondly, even during a hurricane, the building will remain in place. And thirdly, foundations prevent freezing of the soil, additionally soil. Foundations are made from those materials that are convenient to work with, and in a particular case, bricks, blocks, concrete monolith or tape, and even screw piles are more economical.

Attention! The type of foundation for greenhouses is selected in the same way as for main buildings - primarily based on the type of soil.

Article

In this article we will talk about what it is greenhouse, what types of it are there and, most importantly, how to build it with your own hands. What materials can it be made from, how to do it correctly, where to mount it and how to heat it? This is exactly what follows.

Greenhouse at the dacha: how to choose a location?

When choosing a location for a greenhouse, many factors should be taken into account. The main one is the light mode. Thus, greenhouses intended for summer cottages should be placed in areas well lit by the sun. Light is necessary for fruit crops, especially in winter. If you neglect lighting, then growing light-loving crops in winter will become impossible. If you do not have a well-lit area at your dacha, then greenhouses can be equipped with additional sources of artificial lighting, although this will entail additional energy costs. That is, the cost of the fruits of cultivated crops will increase.

It should be mentioned that in the spring and summer, other concerns may arise, since the sun will constantly illuminate the greenhouse, and because of this, the temperature in it will only increase, which will lead to withering of the plants. And again there are extra costs for ventilating the greenhouse in order to maintain the optimal temperature. Therefore, once you have decided to make a greenhouse with your own hands, you must first decide on the installation location. In particular, you also need to take into account the direction of the prevailing winds, because this factor is especially important when installing a permanent winter greenhouse.

Did you know? The first prototypes of modern greenhouses appeared during the times of Ancient Rome. Gardeners planted plants in small carts, which were rolled out into the sunlight during the day and put away in a warm room at night.

Types of greenhouses in the country

When you decide to get your own greenhouse, don’t forget to answer the following questions:

• Why do you need a greenhouse and what are you going to grow in it?
• Will it be used in winter or only during the warm season?
• Will you be installing heating devices in a greenhouse you made yourself?
• What is your goal - to grow plants for sale or for yourself? Do you expect the costs to quickly pay off?
• What size greenhouse do you need?

Did you answer? Now let's look at the types of greenhouses that the modern market offers so that you can choose a design that best suits all your requirements.

What types of greenhouses are there by design?

The simplest and most economical in terms of design is a recessed greenhouse. Perhaps the only drawback of such a structure is that when installed on clay and loamy soils, it will be necessary to equip drainage and drainage systems. To create such a greenhouse in the garden with your own hands, you first need to dig a trench of any size. It should run in the direction from east to west. The walls of the trench should be strengthened with spacers made of slabs or boards cut on both sides (make the side exposed to direct sunlight a little higher). It is necessary to sow seeds or plant seedlings on the sides of the depression, and lay fresh manure in the strip in the middle. When it begins to decompose, additional substances for plant nutrition and heat will be released. Upon completion of all work, the walls from the outer sides must be covered with earth to the top level and covered with polyethylene film or covered with glass.

The simple design of a recessed greenhouse forces you to choose a dry place that is well lit and protected from the winds. Take into account the shadows cast by buildings and trees nearby. A ground greenhouse looks like an ordinary film covering the soil in which seeds are sown or seedlings are planted. To ensure optimal temperature conditions, you need to stretch the film as close as possible to the seedlings, but at the same time so as not to interfere with their free growth. There are several types of ground-based greenhouses, which differ only in the method of installation, height and operational characteristics.

Let's consider the main ones:

Did you know? In Iceland, greenhouses are built on geysers.

Types of materials for a greenhouse

Both glass and various polymer materials can be used as a translucent material for covering greenhouses. Glass is a fairly durable material, so glazed greenhouses last for years, but the main drawback due to which it is not often used when creating greenhouses is that it does not transmit the entire spectrum of sunlight, which is so necessary for growing vegetables. As a result, their taste deteriorates, since the content of vitamin C is reduced. In addition, glass is heavy and quite fragile.
Of the lamellar polymer group materials, polyethylene film is the most widely used, mostly due to its low cost. In addition, it is easy to install and allows the necessary amount of light to pass through. Also, such material can be easily removed from any part of the frame if you need to ventilate the greenhouse or harden off seedlings. The main disadvantage is its fragility, which is explained by the weak strength of the material.

Other advantages of polyethylene film include:

• elasticity;
• frost resistance;
• high moisture resistance;
• good possibility of penetration of oxygen and carbon dioxide;
• transmission of the entire spectrum of sunlight;
• good light scattering ability.

Polyvinyl chloride film is endowed with all the advantages of polyethylene film, moreover, it has a longer service life, and the only disadvantages include low permeability of ultraviolet rays (about 20%). But, alas, this film did not gain popularity. Polyethylene and polyvinyl chloride materials reinforced with fiberglass last up to 8 years and have a light transmittance of 75%.
The most common rigid polymer material is cellular polycarbonate. It can perhaps be called the golden mean, because it has all the advantages of glass and plastic film and is almost completely devoid of their disadvantages. In terms of price, cellular polycarbonate is more expensive than film, but cheaper and lighter than glass. At the same time, it is much stronger, therefore more durable.

Advantages of cellular polycarbonate:

• high sunlight transmittance up to 86%, which over time can drop to a maximum of 82%;
• excellent light scattering ability, which prevents sunburn on plants;
• operational life is 20 years;
• high impact resistance of the material;
• excellent thermal insulation qualities;
• good resistance to bad climatic conditions, maintaining all properties at extreme temperatures from -40°C to +120°C;
• simplified installation process due to low weight;
• good flexibility (it can be used to make different roof structures).

There are three types of polycarbonate covering material: budget, standard and premium. Budget class sheets have a lower density, they are thinner and they contain a larger amount of second-class raw materials. They are cheaper, but have a shorter service life. Standard sheets have a thickness of 25 mm. On one side, they are covered with a protective material that protects polycarbonate from the harmful effects of the environment. It is this polycarbonate that has all the advantages that were described above. It is manufactured in accordance with international quality standards. Premium class polycarbonate has a thickness from 4 to 30 mm and, unlike the standard class, the protective material lies on both sides.

But installing premium polycarbonate will require you to have certain knowledge and skills:

• stiffeners must be mounted vertically to avoid condensation accumulation;
• you cannot bend polycarbonate to a radius smaller than that specified by the manufacturer;
• the ends of the panels must be sealed before installation;
• This material can only be cut with a saw with small teeth or a construction knife;
• fasten the polycarbonate with self-tapping screws with thermal washers;
• the design of a do-it-yourself greenhouse does not involve the installation of polycarbonate material at temperatures below +10°C;
• Installation of polycarbonate should only be carried out with an overlap. It is strictly forbidden to mount it end-to-end.

Did you know? The Crystal Palace was built in London inXIVcentury. For a long period of time, many festivals and various events were held in this large greenhouse, including the Queen’s receptions.

How to make a greenhouse with your own hands: step-by-step instructions and necessary tools

In order for the results of the grown crop to meet your expectations, you need to think about where to put the greenhouse, what material to use during installation and what plan to follow when constructing the structure. All these issues must be resolved before construction work begins.

How to make a greenhouse from arcs?

After the arcs and covering material have been selected, you can begin making a greenhouse with your own hands.

Frame assembly:

1. Attach the arcs with staples to a base of slats or bars, or bury them in the ground.
2. The distance between the arcs should not exceed one meter (optimally 80 cm). Otherwise, the stability of the frame will be at risk.
3. The top of the greenhouse must be “tied” with reinforcement to give the structure strength. You can also use PVC pipes of the required size.

Important! Cover the arc greenhouse with film over its entire length, so that from the end it reaches the ground. This is necessary so that the wind does not get inside and completely destroy the greenhouse.

If you cover the frame with inexpensive plastic film, then on the sides you can press it to the ground with improvised materials. More expensive types of covering material will need to be attached with special staples to the ground or to the base of the arches.

How to make a greenhouse out of wood?

Greenhouses made of wood, which are made by amateur gardeners with their own hands, are the most convenient in mastering the first steps of growing plants. They are made collapsible for ease of reuse next year. Making a wooden greenhouse with minimal financial costs is much easier than it might seem at first glance.

Even an inexperienced gardener can make a small arched portable greenhouse with his own hands. The small size limits the full care of vegetable crops if you are inside it, so you have to remove half the cover for watering, weeding and other work. Greenhouse film becomes unusable very quickly, so it is better to work a little more and construct a greenhouse in the form of a box. Such a greenhouse can also have transparent walls, not just the roof. To do this, you need to collect several wooden frames and fasten them together. For ease of access, it is better to make the roof hinged and equipped with a latch so that it does not open due to strong wind gusts.

Important! In order for such a greenhouse to last longer, install it on an improvised brick foundation. If you use bars, they will need to be impregnated with a special compound that will prevent rotting.

Stationary greenhouses for summer cottages, which are built with your own hands, require the laying of a capital foundation. It can be built from old bricks with cement mortar, which is a more budget-friendly option. You can also use ready-made concrete blocks or fill with mortar and place the formwork. The next stage is tying the structure. Along the perimeter of the foundation, lay a wooden beam with a section of 10x15 cm on top. The beams can be fastened in any way: “dovetail”, “half-wood”, with an anchor, or by mechanical linings.

Important! Any greenhouse must have the ability to ventilate. The hinged fastening of the frames or the easy ability to remove the covering material are excellent for this.

A wooden sheathing is attached to the tied beams, which consists of vertical posts and horizontal bars in increments of one meter maximum. If you organize a film covering, you can stretch it over the frame, securing it to the outer planks, or create modules from old window frames with film instead of glass, which are connected into one continuous structure. The roof can be of any kind, but it must have a slope, even a minimal one, which will ensure the drainage of precipitation. Inside the greenhouse, you can dig a shallow trench the length of the entire structure, which is filled with fertilizers and then covered with a thick layer of soil. A thick layer of soil will protect the deep roots of the plant from burns (a height of 30 cm will be optimal).

Did you know? In northern countries, greenhouses are often attached to houses. Thus, it is convenient to care for plants and heat the house at the same time.

How to make a greenhouse from old windows?

In order to make a small greenhouse from old window frames with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

• window frames in the quantity you need;
• several long boards, not thick logs or bars;
• old brick or concrete for the foundation;
• fastening elements for connecting frames to each other.

When the material for creating a greenhouse is selected, you should more accurately determine its size. There is no such thing as the optimal length of a greenhouse, since it will depend on the size of those same window frames and their number.

Important! You should not design a greenhouse that is too large, because it will not be as convenient in terms of operation.

Before you start assembling the structure, make sure that all frames are the same size. Adjust the boards and beams to the required requirements and coat them with bitumen mastic or used machine oil. Lay bricks along the entire perimeter of the future building and place bars on them. From the inside, attach the boards vertically to the beam with self-tapping screws. The distance between them must be made slightly smaller than the width of the frames. On top, along the outside, attach new boards so that the top edge of the first completely coincides with the vertical ends. Afterwards, you need to attach the rafters to the ends with a “house”. This form is necessary, as we have already discussed, for normal precipitation drainage. Attach the window frames to the finished frame using the same screws.

Important! At a minimum, one of the greenhouse frames must open, so it must be hinged on one side and secured with a latch on the other.

We construct a metal greenhouse

A greenhouse frame made from a profile pipe is the most durable and reliable structure of all known types of shelters for growing early vegetable, berry and flower crops. To construct a mini or large summer cottage greenhouse from a metal profile, you need to take a fairly powerful pipe. A profile of 40x20 mm is ideal. To connect the frame horizontally, a pipe with a cross section of 20x20 mm will be sufficient. Before purchasing covering materials, to create a future frame, it is necessary to plan a drawing of the future greenhouse. This will help you make more accurate calculations of the amount of materials needed. This will also significantly reduce the time and loss of metal during cutting. Next, we will take a closer look at how to make a metal mini greenhouse with your own hands with the simplest gable roof.

First of all, decide what the foundation of your future greenhouse will look like structurally. Here you can choose from several options, starting with wooden railway sleepers and ending with screw piles. In this example, we will consider a small monolithic foundation, 30-40 cm deep. Before filling the dug trench, lay anchors along the entire perimeter for future pipe fastening. As soon as these parts have set, weld a 40x20 mm profile pipe to them, which will serve as a reliable basis for attaching all future frame frames of your metal greenhouse.
To avoid any distortions during frame assembly, assembly must be carried out on a flat and hard surface. If there is one, then you should mark the outline of the future frame on it and cut a profile pipe along it. To simplify the assembly process, it is not necessary to cut the profile into separate parts; it is better to make small precise cuts with a grinder, and then gradually bend the pipe. Thus, you should get a frame of the desired shape. Accurately calculate the angles of the cuts so that the pipe cuts fit together tightly and accurately when bending. After this, carefully weld all joints. The structures that should be approached with the utmost responsibility are end frames. An entrance door will be installed in one of them, and a window in the other.

If you are planning to make a mini greenhouse, then the door can be excluded. Hinge these elements directly onto the frame while it is still lying on the assembly area, as the additional weight will make installation difficult. The 40x20 mm profile has sufficiently high rigidity, so frames can be installed every meter.
They need to be connected to each other by sections of a 20x20 mm square profile. Install frame elements from the end frame. To ensure that it does not deviate from the vertical position, it must be fixed with two angle braces, welding them to the horizontal foundation pipe. Weld the horizontal connecting elements of the profile 10 cm below the inflection point of the frame. This is necessary so that you can attach the polycarbonate in width and length as conveniently as possible.

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Vegetables from your own garden are much healthier and tastier than purchased ones, as every summer resident will confirm. But although theoretically such products should also be cheap, in practice maintaining a greenhouse costs a pretty penny. Therefore, if you are planning to start growing cucumbers, tomatoes and herbs just for yourself, it is worth considering options for greenhouses made from scrap materials. And we will tell you how to build them with your own hands.

Greenhouse from scrap materials: what can be used for construction

A thrifty owner never gets rid of what else may be needed. Therefore, a lot of things are inevitably collected at the dacha that can be put to use and set up a greenhouse on the site. Of course, only a summer greenhouse without heating and a capital foundation can be almost free, but even this will help you get the first harvest several months earlier than when growing in open ground.

A greenhouse made from old windows can have impressive dimensions.

Before building a greenhouse, you should decide what you plan to save: time, money or your own efforts. For example, a greenhouse made from old windows will cost almost nothing, but you will have to work hard to remove old paint from wooden frames. A greenhouse made of PVC pipes is installed very easily and quickly, but you will need to buy the pipes and fittings themselves; it is unlikely that you have enough leftovers lying around at your dacha for a full-fledged greenhouse. On the other hand, if appearance is not particularly important, you can try to “dance from the stove” and combine several materials at once that were left after construction and renovation.

Material options for inexpensive frames

The frame of the greenhouse must be strong enough to support its own weight and the weight of the skin. In addition, it is desirable that it not be destroyed by elevated temperature and humidity, but this problem is easily solved with special impregnations or protective paints.

So, to build a greenhouse you can use:

1. Willow twigs are the cheapest and most environmentally friendly material. You can cut thin branches of willow or hazel in a nearby forest or planting along the road. It is best to harvest in late February-early March, before the trees begin to sap. When choosing, you should give preference to long flexible branches with a uniform length; young trees have many of these. The only preparation of the material is to clean the branches from bark and, possibly, thorns. Impregnation with agents against bugs and rot is desirable, but not required. Without protective equipment, the greenhouse will be more environmentally friendly and cheaper, and a damaged branch will be easy to replace if necessary. A frame made of branches can be installed alone in just a day, but it can last up to 3 years. Willow frame is only suitable for low-rise greenhouses and regions without strong winds. Otherwise, due to the high flexibility of the frame and the windage of the skin, the greenhouse may be blown away by a strong gust of wind.

   Birch branches - a flexible base for a high arched greenhouse

2. Pallets or pallets for transportation are a good source of boards. If desired, you can build walls from solid pallets, but you can also disassemble the pallets into components. The boards will serve to fasten the wooden frame of the greenhouse, and for the base you will need to buy beams. If you do not plan to make the greenhouse high, you can get by with just boards and additionally strengthen the frame with metal mesh. Keep in mind that this option is suitable for warm regions and places where strong winds rarely blow.

   Using this principle, you can build not only such a small greenhouse, but also a full-fledged greenhouse

3. Chain-link mesh or reinforcing mesh are excellent materials for sheathing support.. When there is a large distance between the frame elements, the film or non-woven membrane may sag. To prevent this from happening, first stretch the mesh and only after it cover the greenhouse with the selected material. The mesh will perfectly strengthen the frame of the building and prevent the cladding from flapping in the wind. You can attach the mesh to the frame with wire or plastic cable ties (they are inexpensive and sold in every hardware store). Just remember to make sure that the sharp tips of the mesh do not tear the skin. If you cannot position the material so that the cut edges rest on the ground, you should protect them. The fine mesh mesh can be framed with a thin water pipe by cutting the pipe on one side and hiding the ends in it. In a large-mesh one, it is easier to insulate each tail separately, for example, by placing a piece of heat-shrink tubing on it.

   If you have a large amount of unnecessary wire, you can build a mesh yourself

4. A metal profile for drywall will also come in handy. If after repairs you still have scraps of durable galvanized profile, it can be used to strengthen the frame of the greenhouse. If this material is not enough to construct load-bearing elements, it will serve perfectly as a spacer between wooden pillars or to support the base of a gable roof.

   It is easy to build a greenhouse roof from a plasterboard profile, even without special fasteners

5. Polyethylene water pipes or rubber hoses are excellent protection for the frame. The load-bearing capacity of this material is only enough for a small greenhouse, but if there are thin reinforcing bars or at least branches inside, you can build a good arched greenhouse. For the bottom trim, you will definitely need to build a box, since soft pipes simply stuck into the ground will not hold. The finished frame looks neat and aesthetically pleasing, resistant to humidity and high temperatures. But frost can cause rubber to crack, so this option is better suited for collapsible summer greenhouses.

   In a small greenhouse, pipe clips can be used to secure the sheathing.

6. PVC pipes are a reliable and durable basis. Craftsmen even make stairs and chairs from PVC water pipes, and it will be much easier to build a greenhouse frame from them. This material is completely impervious to moisture, high and low temperatures, and is not particularly afraid of animal claws and mechanical stress. To connect the pipes to each other, you do not need self-tapping screws; they are fastened due to the temperature melting of the ends of the pipes and fittings. But making a tall greenhouse with a large number of cross connections can be too expensive. To save money, it is worth constructing arches from leftovers, and fastening them at the top with the same pipe or wooden plank using plastic ties. The ends of the pipes will need to be inserted deeply into the ground or into prepared holes in the wooden frame. To strengthen the frame, the first and last arch can be made from thicker pipes.

   If you make an arched greenhouse from PVC pipes, fewer fittings will be required

7. Glass fittings are a replacement for metal rods. You may have unused fragments left after pouring the foundation, laying glass blocks or creating monolithic walls. These trimmings can be connected to each other and used to strengthen the spans of the arched greenhouse, or placed in strips over the sheathing material so that strong winds do not tear it away from the greenhouse frame. Glass reinforcement is resistant to mechanical, chemical and atmospheric influences, does not rust, and bends easily. Therefore, when it is necessary to replace the covering film, the reinforcement can be temporarily removed and then reused. If you have 5-6 long rods or a roll of glass reinforcement at home, you can use them to make the frame of an arched greenhouse without additional materials. Only the height of the greenhouse is limited - a maximum of 2 m; for higher greenhouses it is necessary to make support pillars under the highest point of each arch.

   The strength of the glass reinforcement allows the construction of high arches that an adult can easily pass through

8. Metal fittings are a durable but expensive option. Buying it specifically for a greenhouse will be too expensive. But if after construction you have scraps left, it’s worth making a kind of foundation out of such reinforcement. Stick the rods around the perimeter of the greenhouse at equal distances from each other so that a third or a quarter of the length sticks out above the ground. It will be possible to tie vine branches or plastic pipes to them so that the frame is more reliable and moisture-sensitive materials do not come into contact with the ground.

   The reinforcement frame of the greenhouse looks very neat

9. Old logs with defects can still be useful. Perhaps, during the construction of a summer house or bathhouse, you rejected logs with cracks or pockets of rot and never found a use for them. Wood of this quality is excellent for the foundation of a greenhouse, since the load on it is very small. You just need to build a rectangle of logs and bury it 7–10 cm into the ground, and a reliable foundation for the future greenhouse is ready. A wooden, metal or even plastic frame can easily be attached to the logs and they are compatible with all types of cladding, so this foundation is suitable for any non-permanent greenhouse.

   In order for the square of logs to keep its shape well, a recess should be cut in the top ones as in the photo

10. Bags of earth - a well-forgotten old thing. At the peak of the passion for environmentally friendly construction in America, the method of creating earthen walls was revived. The essence of the method is that plastic bags (woven, like for sugar or flour) are filled with slightly damp soil and stacked on top of each other. The volume of earth in the bags decreases from the bottom row to the top, so the wall gradually becomes thinner. The foundation is a series of the same bags, but filled with fine or medium-fraction crushed stone. In an earthen greenhouse you can install windows and doors; the easiest way is to install wooden boxes under them at the stage of folding the walls. After the earth has dried, the walls will need to be plastered with cement or clay mortar. And it is best to make the roof light and transparent, for example, from polycarbonate and wooden beams. In terms of thermal insulation, such a structure is comparable to a thermos greenhouse buried in the ground. The cost of a greenhouse is the cost of bags and a roof, and its durability is estimated in tens and even hundreds of years. The only drawback of an earthen greenhouse is high labor costs; you will have to assemble a team of assistants and dig up a lot of soil.

    Bags make interesting structures with curvilinear shapes

11. Straw blocks are another option for an eco-friendly greenhouse. If you have the opportunity to take straw briquettes to the field for free or buy straw briquettes cheaply, they will be an excellent basis for a warm and safe greenhouse. It is best to prefer rye straw, since rodents and insects are almost not interested in it. The blocks are simply installed on top of each other without fastenings, but for better adhesion they can be pierced with reinforcement rods. The roof and, if possible, one of the walls of the greenhouse should be made transparent so that the plants do not suffer from lack of light. If you want such a greenhouse to last for more than one season, you should lay the blocks on a foundation or frame made of wooden beams with protective impregnation.

    Straw walls of a greenhouse are an excellent heat insulator

Whatever material you decide to use, try to make the frame smooth, especially if it will be sheathed with film material. Otherwise, knots and nicks will easily tear the film or non-woven membrane.

Greenhouse sheathing: what you can find in the pantry

The greenhouse lining should provide good access to direct sunlight to the plants. It is especially important not to filter out one part of the spectrum, because the absence of red is bad for growth, and without blue, fruit does not appear. It is because of this that only transparent or white material is used as cladding for greenhouses, but not colored.

Despite the variety of shades of cellular polycarbonate, greenhouses are sheathed only in white and light gray

To cover the greenhouse, you may need leftover building materials, unnecessary fragments of old decoration, and even the contents of a pantry that no one has looked into for a long time.

1. Window frames with glass - a standard and unjustifiably forgotten option. The process of replacing old windows with metal-plastic or energy-efficient wooden ones is still ongoing. Therefore, even if you don’t have any lying around, unnecessary windows may well end up with neighbors or near a house where reconstruction is being carried out. As a rule, the owners of these useful materials do not require any payment for them, so at worst you will spend money on gasoline. If the aesthetics of the structure are important to you, you will have to remove the glass, clean the frames of old paint, impregnate them with protective agents and re-decorate them. It is also important to select windows of approximately equal sizes so that the finished structure looks harmonious. But when only functionality is important, you just need to scrape off the pieces of paint that are ready to fall off with a small metal spatula, and apply impregnation to the bare areas of the wood. The size of the transoms is also not too important; they can be combined as desired. But glass greenhouses are distinguished by the best environmental friendliness and light transmission. Unfortunately, glass can be broken by hail or large amounts of snow, so it is better to make only walls from it, and choose another option for the roof or further strengthen it.

   Window units with vents are best placed at the ends

2. Plastic bottles - free and durable material. In nature, a bottle takes more than 300 years to decompose, so plastic containers will last for decades as a greenhouse lining. The weak point of the greenhouse can be the frame and string on which the bottles were assembled. Bottle plastic is completely resistant to moisture, frost, putrefactive bacteria and fungi, so the greenhouse will not need to be dismantled for the winter. Bottles for wall cladding are used in two versions: columns from containers with a cut bottom and sheets of sewn or glued plastic, which were cut from the middle parts of the containers. Empty bottles create the effect of a thermos, perfectly retain heat in the room and do not let light frosts in. The temperature inside the greenhouse is so stable that tomatoes and cucumbers can often be harvested in early December. But if they are not laid tightly, wind can penetrate between the posts and they will need to be additionally glued. A greenhouse made from plates turns out to be more airtight, but it is more difficult to make and more material will be needed. You will have to cut straight parts of the bottles, align them with an iron and sew them together on long winter evenings, so that in the spring the prepared transparent sheets can be immediately mounted on the frame. When using plastic containers, you save not only on the cladding material, but also on the skeleton of the greenhouse. Since the bottles are very light, thinner beams can be used to construct the frame than for polycarbonate cladding. You should prepare for setting up a greenhouse from plastic containers in advance, because it will take almost a year to collect the required 600–700 bottles.

   Various options for using plastic bottles for lining a greenhouse

3. Agrofibre or non-woven membrane is a good choice for a greenhouse. This material is often purchased for arranging lazy beds, but it also performs just as well on the frame of a high three-meter greenhouse. Agrofibre protects crops from low temperatures (down to -5 o C), perfectly allows moisture to pass through (unlike film and polycarbonate), provides air exchange (windows for ventilation are simply not needed), and is easy to repair (the patch is glued for 1.5 minutes). Even a beginner in gardening can make an effective greenhouse from agrofibre. After all, the low weight and excellent permeability of the material completely compensate for errors in the calculations of the frame (it can be very light), lack of ventilation and other possible errors. The only drawback of agrofibre is that it is afraid of claws, so if cats or dogs walk around the area, the sheathing will have to be protected with a fine-mesh metal mesh.

   The width of the agrofibre allows you to cover a small greenhouse without joints

4. Film is the most popular option, it is chosen by 70% of beginners and at least 50% of experienced summer residents. Manufacturers offer many types of specialized film for greenhouses, which can allow rain to pass through, does not tear due to additional reinforcement, and can remain on the frame in winter. But if you are trying to save money, you can easily use the leftover film from the closet or buy a cheap one. It will last no more than a season, but it will provide the plants with the necessary microclimate and will not require a very reliable frame.

   For reliability, the film is always fixed through a gasket (bar, rubber strip, plastic molding, etc.)

5. Cellular polycarbonate is the second most popular cladding material. Beginning summer residents shouldn’t buy it specifically, but if after building a canopy at the front door, carport or gazebo, you have scraps left over, you can put them to use. If there are few residues, use polycarbonate for the roof of the greenhouse, since it is this that bears shock loads from hail and mechanical loads from snow. It is polycarbonate that can be used to protect the roof of old windows to prevent glass from breaking. This material is compatible with frames made of metal, wood, and PVC pipes.

   Polycarbonate cladding is suitable for both arched and pitched greenhouses

In accordance with the selected material, select a convenient method for sealing joints. For example, the film is additionally glued with tape, the polycarbonate is assembled with special fasteners or sealed with adhesive tape made of foamed polymer, and the non-woven membrane is simply overlapped and fastened along the entire length of the joint. If you ignore this stage of work, drafts will begin to circulate in the greenhouse and tender plants will die.

Sheathing fasteners made from improvised means

When finishing a greenhouse with rolled materials (film, non-woven membrane), they must not only be secured to the frame with a construction stapler, but also the fixation must be further strengthened. A net or slats on the outside of the greenhouse will prevent the wind from ruffling the material in the spans between the ribs of the frame.

A clip for attaching film from the neck of a plastic bottle is an excellent example of a useful device made from scrap materials.

Useful as a fastener:

• plastic net for cucumbers: resistant to atmospheric loads, cheap, but suitable only for small greenhouses;
• fishing net made of durable synthetic threads: durable and reliable, can last for several years, but is destroyed over time due to ultraviolet radiation;
• linen cord: inexpensive, weather-resistant, and when properly tensioned, provides good protection for sheathing made of rolled materials;
• wooden planks: require impregnation and sanding, do not always look aesthetically pleasing, but do not require costs;
• clips for PVC pipes: easy to install and hold securely, they help secure the pipe and the wooden strip together, but are only suitable for structures with a pipe frame.

Now it’s time to look into the pantry/utility/shed and select from old stocks the materials that will be useful for arranging the greenhouse.

Photo gallery: greenhouses made from leftovers

After construction, triangular scraps of polycarbonate remained - make a hemispherical greenhouse If you carefully combine a painted drywall profile and old glass, you will get a very beautiful greenhouse
Different plants require different growing conditions, so the greenhouses on your site should not be the same A hemispherical greenhouse made from PVC pipes and regular film is very stable The remains of wooden lining are an excellent option for cladding the bottom of a wooden greenhouse When there is a brick left after construction, you can use it to build a side for a greenhouse You can make an analogue of an industrial polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands

Getting ready for construction work

First, you need to determine which greenhouse design option will suit you best.

Perhaps a non-standard greenhouse design will be more convenient for you than a conventional house with a gable roof

When choosing, take into account the size and shape of the area allocated for the greenhouse, the quantity and type of available building materials, the number of beds, etc. When free space remains only near the house itself, it is worth saving on materials and organizing a wall-mounted greenhouse. And for those who prefer not to spend a lot of time on gardening work, a small round greenhouse is quite suitable.

According to this drawing, it is supposed to build a greenhouse out of wood, but if you remove the extra braces, you can use it to assemble a metal or pipe frame

Among gardeners and gardeners, the most popular are medium-sized greenhouses in the form of a house with straight walls and a gable roof. To build the 3x4 m option shown in the drawing, you will need about 150 m of beams, boards or metal pipes. They will need to be cut into fragments of 1.5 m each (vertical posts) - 30 pieces and 1 m each (horizontal lintels) - 110 pieces. The remains will be useful for braces and the frame of the door leaf.

To cover the walls you need 35.5 m2 of film or membrane, this is almost 24 linear meters from a roll 1.5 m high. This roll width is optimal because it allows you to close the walls with a minimum number of joints. To finish the roof you need 24 m2 of material, which corresponds to 16 linear meters of a 1.5 m roll of film or 4 sheets of cellular polycarbonate measuring 1.2x5 m. For gables (triangles at the front and back) you need another 8 m2 of material, that is 5 .5 linear meters of film 1.5 m wide or 2 sheets of polycarbonate measuring 1.3x3 m.

How to make a cheap greenhouse from leftovers with your own hands

We will consider step-by-step construction using the example of the given drawing, but we will implement the project using thick branches and ordinary packaging film. Branches left over after cleaning the garden or cut from the nearest forest are the cheapest and most environmentally friendly material for a frame. So that you do not doubt the strength of the structure, choose branches at least 5 cm thick (in cross-section) without visible defects. The trunks of young acacia trees, which accumulate after clearing forest belts along roads or forests, are excellent for this purpose. You can negotiate with a forester who will tell you what material you can take for your purposes.

Thanks to this manual holder, winding the film onto the frame is greatly simplified

Packaging film at first seems unsuitable for our purposes, but it is no less durable and transmits light no worse than specialized materials for greenhouses. It will have to be wound in several layers and thanks to this it turns out to be stronger than ordinary thin film, less prone to windage and sagging in the spans between the ribs of the frame. Working with the material is as simple as possible; you don’t even need to call an assistant to cover the greenhouse. At the same time, stretch film provides excellent protection from low temperatures, so the plants in the greenhouse will bear fruit even with light frosts. The brand of material does not matter; you can buy any packaging film in a store or order it online. You need 2 large rolls.

Since the greenhouse lining will be very light, the frame can also be made lighter by reducing the number of vertical posts and struts. In this economical option, you will need 6 columns of 2.5 m, 3 of 3 m and 2 of 6 m for horizontal connections.

Covering the perimeter with boards will significantly increase the life of the film.

To prevent the film below from suffering from mechanical damage, chicken beaks and cat claws, it is better to trim the frame with boards. It is advisable to impregnate them with a protective agent, since they will constantly be in contact with wet soil. About 40 m of boards will be required.

Consumables you will need:

• butterfly hinges for hanging doors and windows (the easiest to install);
• door handle;
• a latch or latch for fixing the door and vents in a closed state;
• wood screws (the simplest stainless steel with black coating, 76–90 mm long);
• spare jigsaw files;
• long reinforced staples for a construction stapler;
• thin rubber hose or drip tube - about 40 m;
• stationery or packing tape;
• metal corners for attaching vertical posts (you can cut wooden ones, or make additional braces from boards).

The length of the screw should be almost twice the diameter of the cross-section of the part being fastened.

Required tools:

• jigsaw for cutting beams;
• a screwdriver for fastening wood (if you have a construction gun, you can use it and fasten the frame with nails);
• construction stapler for fastening sheathing.

Let's get to work.

1. Prepare the required number of thick branches, free them from branches and cut them to size. If desired, you can completely remove the bark, sand the posts and impregnate them with protective agents. The bottom can also be dipped in used engine oil or creosote.
   

   It will be great if you can choose even stems of uniform thickness

2. Dig 9 holes around the perimeter of the greenhouse, pour some gravel inside and place vertical posts in the holes, thoroughly compacting the soil. In the front part of the greenhouse, there should be 4 posts at the end, so that two of them protect the doorway. Secure horizontal jumpers from branches along the top of the posts and at a height of 1 m from the ground level. Cover the lower part of the frame with boards.
   

   Sheathing with boards gives the frame additional rigidity

3. Connect the highest posts with a branch to form a ridge. Make a roof frame from six long branches, resting one end of the branch on a vertical post and the other on the ridge.
   

   With a height of central pillars of 3 m and side pillars of 2 m, the optimal slope of the gable roof is obtained

4. If you haven't taken the time to clean and sand the posts, wrap the frame with tape. If this is not done, the stretch film will tear during the process of wrapping the greenhouse and will serve very little later.
   

   When wrapping, do not pull the tape too tightly so that the jagged edges on the branch become invisible.

5. Wrap the frame with film in a circle, trying to make an even layer over the entire area of ​​the walls. There is no need to leave a hole under the door; it will be cut out in the next step.
   

   You will need to wind at least three layers of film

6. Cover the roof of the greenhouse with a thicker film and carefully seal the joint with tape. Along the outer contour of the building, place a fixing strip on top of the film. It should be secured with nails, since the self-tapping screw will slightly crush the material when screwing it in, and this can subsequently lead to rupture. But if the roof film is reinforced, you don’t have to worry about such consequences.
   

   The film must hang just below the slopes so that it can be secured with a bar

7. Fix the film on the frame elements using construction staples. To ensure that the fastening is strong and the film does not tear, use a thin rubber tube as a gasket.
   

   Attach the staples along the width of the tape at a distance of 20 cm from each other

8. Cut a hole in the film for the door and window (at the opposite end) and additionally strengthen the film at the cut-out location, treating the improvised threshold especially carefully. Knock down a rectangle of door and window panels from the remaining branches and cover it with film using the described technology. Butterfly hinges can be attached to the frame directly through the film.
   

   The edge of the door frame should be insulated with foam tape

   The greenhouse is ready for the first tests. Leave it closed overnight and check the temperature difference between inside and outside the next day. If it is less than 10 o C, then you should look for the remaining cracks and additionally strengthen all the joints of the materials.

If you fence off the beds with boards and fill the path with crushed stone, your boots will remain clean after working in the greenhouse

This greenhouse will not require additional finishing. You can start arranging the beds and building a path for easy access to all the plants.

As you can see, a home greenhouse is not always very expensive. Perhaps a greenhouse made from leftovers will not become the main decoration of your dacha, but it can definitely please you with excellent home-grown vegetables when the season has not yet begun or has already ended.

Reading time ≈ 14 minutes

From this article you will learn how to make a greenhouse with your own hands, but don’t be alarmed - it’s not at all difficult at home and you can choose the most budget-friendly option. This is a fairly simple structure and any normal person, and not necessarily an adult, can build it - even a high school student can cope with such a task. You just need to decide on the installation location, materials for construction and the method of heating the future structure (you can watch the video below).

Video: greenhouse “for the lazy”

Greenhouse and greenhouse - what's the difference?

In the greenhouse

Greenhouses can be stationary (the frame is fixed in the ground) or portable - they can be lifted and moved to another place. As a rule, such structures are not large in size and adult plants are usually not grown there, but are used for seedlings, which are then planted in the garden. The height of such gardening devices is no more than 1.5 m, and these parameters are for a hospital and if it is possible to easily remove them, then from 0.5 m or a little more. The greenhouse can be with forced heating or without it.

The structure, called, according to the standard, has at least 2.5 m in height; in any case, a person can move there at full height. On large farms, such buildings are made so large that agricultural machinery can enter there to cultivate soil and plants, as well as collect and remove crops. Forced heating is installed very rarely in greenhouses - the main source of heat is sunlight plus the absence of wind.

Note. It is possible to build a greenhouse on your own plot, but this is a rather labor-intensive process, which also requires serious investment. It is much easier, cheaper and faster to build a greenhouse.

What materials can you use to build a greenhouse?

Reinforced polyethylene film

To cover a greenhouse, different materials are used, where the main requirements are lightness, transparency and moisture resistance. For these purposes the following are usually used:

• polyethylene - regular or reinforced film;
• lutrasil – non-woven covering material;
• spunbond - non-woven covering material;
• cast polycarbonate;
• cellular polycarbonate;
• ordinary glass.

Frame made of metal pipes for a mobile greenhouse

For the frame, it is also possible to use different materials or even what can be found at home on the farm. It can be:

• metal pipes;
• polypropylene pipes;
• metal fittings;
• fiberglass reinforcement;
• wooden bars;
• window frames.

Different types of greenhouses

Such structures can take a wide variety of shapes. The frame can be made:

• arched;
• trapezoidal;
• square;
• rectangular;
• triangular.

Simple greenhouse with arched frame

Mobile greenhouse with an arched frame

It is very convenient to make such a structure from half-inch polypropylene pipes - plumbers call them twenties, since the outer diameter is 20 mm. The frame is simply welded, like a water pipe, and at the same time it can be given any size. It is quite natural that the arc will unbend, but this is not a problem - you can put ties along the edges and in several places in the middle. This is done very simply: tees are cut into the lower longitudinal pipes and ties are made with their help.

A metal frame is made using the same principle: if these are steel pipes, then they are bent using a pipe bender, and if they are reinforcement, then they can be bent around a template. The lower horizontal jumpers in such cases are welded by electric or gas welding.

If fiberglass rods are used as arcs, then there is no way to do without lumber. That is, here you will have to make a base on which the arcs will be attached and it is most convenient to build it from the lumber you have on hand. It can be anything: slats, bars, boards, chipboard, OSB, or plywood.

Another option for such a structure is when arcs (arches) are driven into the ground, but this already turns out to be a stationary model - such a greenhouse cannot be moved from place to place. Everything here is very simple: semi-ovals are bent from rods of any material and stuck into the ground. After this, the frame is covered with film, and to care for the plants, this film is simply thrown aside.

Video: Fedorov’s greenhouse - a movable arched structure

Simple block construction

Triangular structure made of bars

This is a very simple design that can be assembled by any summer resident who has ever held a hammer or screwdriver in his hands. This assembly is done according to the principle of a gable rafter system: a quadrangle is assembled around the perimeter (like a Mauerlat) and rafter legs are fixed to it, converging at the top point (ridge). To give the structure rigidity, you should screw (nail) a ridge beam - this is the same block that is fixed at the convergence point. In this case, the optimal cross-section of the wooden profile is 50×50 mm.

It should be noted here that a stationary structure of this type should not be made - the wood in the ground will simply rot. If the bars are dry, the frame will be light. But if the assembly is done with self-tapping screws, then it can be easily disassembled and stored in some utility room. 5-10 pairs of rafter legs will not take up much space, but at any time you can lay them out, secure them at the top and bottom with longitudinal and transverse bars, and then cover them with film.

Stationary greenhouse made of lumber

Stationary mini greenhouse

Now let's see how to make a stationary greenhouse with your own hands at home. You will find a video clip on a stationary greenhouse below. In fact, any owner of a country house or summer resident who knows what a hammer, hacksaw and screwdriver are can do this. It should be said right away that the station in this case does not imply burying lumber in the ground - the structure simply cannot be removed during operation.

Base installation

To install such a structure, you first need to assemble the frame, as shown in the photo above. Such an assembly will serve as a box for the soil and it is possible to attach a wooden frame to it, which can be made either quadrangular or triangular. The downside here is that the soil will be in a wooden box and the boards will rot over time due to moisture.

Video: stationary mini greenhouse

Metal frame for greenhouse

Today, almost all rigid transparent coatings are made from cast or. This is very convenient, since the sheets are easily bent and fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws. But to build such a structure, a number of circumstances must be taken into account, such as:

• sheets come in two sizes: 2×6 m and 2×12 m and it is better not to cut it, especially if it is a cellular PC;
• If polycarbonate has a 2R structure and a thickness of 4 mm, then it is cheaper than glass of the same thickness. Its cost can only be compared with agricultural film;
• the equipment (standard fasteners, compensators, edging profile, filters and aluminum tape) are quite expensive. But if you do not use it and simply fix it with self-tapping screws, then in the open air the polycarbonate will become unusable in 3-4 years;
• installation of the material is carried out by bending, if the structure is not made in the form of a square or quadrangle. But bending gives the building additional strength, and the frame must be reinforced and, accordingly, it will be more expensive. This method must be used for greenhouses
• all this is done from scraps that may remain from some project, for example, assembling a gazebo, but if the sheets are solid, then the frame must be strengthened. If you have never made a greenhouse with your own hands, then it is better to start with plastic film - it is not only convenient, but also cheap and practical.

Processes occurring in a greenhouse

Processes occurring day and night

The layer of soil in which plants are planted in a greenhouse in a country house or on a country plot is very thin, so such a biological system is quite fragile. What is very important here is the fact that the biorhythms in it are forced, although they are closer to natural, but at the same time intensified. This section focuses specifically on greenhouses, not greenhouses - all the necessary information is here.

What's happening in the world

Life cycles of a plant day and night

The biorhythm in a greenhouse for plants largely follows the natural cycle, as shown in the figure on the right side, although there are small differences that speed up their development:

• leaves and green stems consume water with carbon dioxide from the soil, as well as minerals that are dissolved there;
• metabolic oxygen can be released here - much more of it is released than usual;
• Thanks to photosynthesis, dissolved plastic and organic substances are formed - they are absolutely necessary for the development and growth of plants; Some of the plastic substances enter the rhizomes, tubers and bulbs. It can also be stems without chlorophyll, flowers or ripening fruits.

What happens in the dark

Night processes:

• vegetative green parts, together with the roots, absorb oxygen and at the same time release carbon dioxide;
• green foliage also produces excess water - this is usually water vapor, although sometimes it can be water droplets that are released through hydathodes (water stomata);
• plastic substances are produced, that is, the daily supply is completely consumed;
• roots grow mainly at night due to the influx of plastic substances into them.

Recommendation. If it is warm outside (at least 10-15⁰C), the greenhouse needs to be ventilated. Ventilation provides the home with an influx of oxygen and, although plants consume very little of it, this gas must be provided to the plants at night so that rot and various diseases do not begin. Ventilation is best done in the morning to remove CO2 and H2O that have accumulated overnight.

Greenhouse effect

Greenhouse effect process in a greenhouse

What happens during the day:

• Some of the daylight is needed for plant photosynthesis;
• carbon dioxide and water vapor are absorbed by greenhouse gas molecules, transferring them to a higher energy level;
• a small part of daylight is taken by the soil, converting it into infrared radiation, which warms the air;
• Some of the infrared radiation is transformed by the coating (image on the left). In addition, it warms the air and the building itself;
• heating the soil is quite enough to activate the roots, but outside it may be low.

Note. CO2 is heavier than air, and it collects at the bottom of the greenhouse, but H2O in the form of condensate droplets collects at the top.

• the air temperature inside the greenhouse at night is higher than outside and higher than the temperature of sap flow;
• through convection, the soil releases its heat to the air;
• greenhouse gas molecules are illuminated in infrared gases, warming the air and promoting sap flow in the trunk and foliage of plants;
• heat is dissipated through the coating.

Note. It turns out that for any vegetation in the greenhouse, conditions are created for “three-shift work.”

Fertile soil

Fertile soil

To make a greenhouse yourself at your dacha or suburban area, you need to assemble it from a profile pipe and polycarbonate. This will be a very complex biocenosis, home to countless very small living organisms that cannot be found in another habitat. Some biologists classify such soil as microorganisms along with termite mounds, anthills and coral reefs. Such a cover can be called the largest living formation on the planet.

In greenhouses, the soil “works” around the clock, that is, in three shifts, and in spring and autumn, contrary to the natural regime of heating and cooling, so it is depleted very quickly. A greenhouse, unlike a greenhouse, cannot work on the same soil for more than a season. Greenhouses are divided into three types according to the nature of soil use:

1. Mobile - as the soil depletes, the greenhouse is moved to another place.
2. Ground - suitable for warm edges and made only of frame and film. The soil there is stationary and they are used for seedlings.<
3. Bulk - can remain in one place for a long time, but natural soils are not used.

Note. For a ground or mobile greenhouse, the soil will remain suitable for a long time if it is heated with available materials.

Legumes in a greenhouse

Mobile and ground greenhouses need to restore fertility. One of the existing methods is sowing legumes, for example, or beans, but restoration in this case will not be complete, but only partial. If you are looking for how to make a greenhouse for cucumbers, then this option will not work - on such soil it is better to do it yourself or make berry bushes.

To completely restore soil fertility, it should be left fallow for a year so that it can take a break from stress, and then legumes should be planted. After complete restoration, the soil can be planted under a wide variety of root crops and/or. To effectively use the soil, you will need four identical plots:

1. Where the greenhouse is located.
2. Fallow;
3. Planted with nitrogen fixers.
4. Under other crops.

Warming up the earth in a greenhouse

Video: heating the soil in a greenhouse in different ways

A very good method of heating the soil is to insulate it with horse manure, but here a problem arises: there are practically no horses now and manure can only be found at a stud farm. Other materials do not have this effect and oversaturate the soil with nitrates, which is extremely undesirable for the crop, as they are harmful to human health. Now scientific agrochemistry is being used in full swing, but horse manure is still better. The video above talks about some methods of heating the soil.

Using biofuels to heat soil

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