Nitrofen: instructions for use, description, reviews
An effective product for protecting the garden from pests and diseases. Available in the form of a dark brown paste, highly soluble in water.
In addition to protection, nitrophen has a stimulating effect on plant growth and development.
Nitrophen should not be used on green vegetation. Use it either in early spring, even before the buds swell, or late autumn- after the leaves fall.
What is Nitrofen used for?
On fruit trees: against scab, various leaf spots, mosses and lichens. Effectively destroys aphids, mites, scale insects, caterpillars, leaf rollers and other sucking-gnawing pests.
To prepare a working solution, 200 g of the drug is dissolved in 10 liters of water.
To disinfect the soil, take 300 g per 10 liters of water. For 1 mature fruit tree and
the soil underneath needs 10 - 30 liters of solution.
On berry bushes (gooseberries, currants, raspberries): - against anthracnose, scab, powdery mildew, as well as for the destruction of aphids and other pests.
The bushes and the soil under them are cultivated after the leaves fall. Dilute 150 g of nitrophen per 10 liters of water.
On strawberries: against leaf spots and gray rot of berries.
Strawberry bushes and the soil under them are sprayed with a solution at a concentration of 150 g per 10 liters of water. This is done in the spring, before the leaves begin to grow.
For weed control. Effectively fights woodlice, cress and others weeds. It is necessary to cultivate the soil in early spring, diluting 300 g of the drug in 10 liters of water.
General spraying of the garden is also carried out to destroy the infection. Spray the soil under the bushes and
around berry bushes and on tree trunks fruit trees working solution in a concentration of 300 g of nitrophen per 10 liters of water.
When using the drug you need
Observe the usual precautions as when working with toxic chemicals.
If you have used Nitrofen, please write whether you are satisfied with its effect. Would you recommend using this particular drug to protect the garden from diseases and pests?
Your feedback will help many gardeners evaluate the effect of Nitrofen more objectively and decide whether it is worth purchasing it or not.
Grape processing products, drugs for diseases
Grape processing products: drugs for diseases
Topsin-M
An excellent systemic drug that is used by winegrowers for:
- powdery mildew; fusarium; rot; scab.
The chemical agent fights several pathogenic organisms simultaneously, therefore it is more effective - the first positive results appear within 24-48 hours. The protective and therapeutic effect lasts 21 days. Spraying is carried out in dry, windless weather.
The disadvantages of the drug include the addiction of fungi to the chemical and the need to alternate with other agents so that the pathogens do not develop immunity. Remember: “Topsin-M” does not cure mildew, so treatments for the disease will not give results.
Shavit F
A popular contact-systemic broad-spectrum fungicide that allows gardeners to protect grapes from:
- oidium; mildew; black spot; white and gray rot; infectious drying.
The drug is effectively used for preventive and therapeutic spraying. The active substances of the product begin to act immediately after treatment, and the effect is noticeable after three days. “Shavit F” inhibits pathogenic organisms and disrupts cellular respiration in diseases. Fungi do not develop immunity to the fungicide.
Contact-systemic fungicide Shavit F
Insect repellents
Pests are no less dangerous than fungal diseases, therefore, professional winegrowers always carry out preventive treatments of plants and the site. If you were overlooked and insects attacked, there are chemicals, which we will talk about.
Nitrophen
An easy-to-use drug kills pests in the bark of grapes, as well as larvae and eggs in the soil of the bushes. Use from:
- leaf roller; scale insects; ticks; aphids; scale insects; pray.
The product burns young greenery, so all work is carried out in the spring (before the leaves bloom) and in the autumn (after the green mass falls off). The entire surface of the grapes and the soil with vegetation under the bush are treated. Additionally, Nitrofen protects against spotting and powdery mildew.
Aktellik
A powerful, broad-spectrum drug used to destroy:
- leaf roller; phylloxera; ticks; mealybugs.
The product quickly kills insects and larvae and protects plants throughout the growing season. The result of the treatment is noticeable in the first hours after spraying. If you use Actellik according to the instructions and alternate with other insecticides, then pests will not develop resistance to the chemical.
For a small number of lesions, the drug is used in lower concentrations. The drug is toxic, so procedures are carried out in protective clothing and a mask. Remember: grapes should not be processed during flowering and 20 days before harvesting. The vine is sprayed in calm, dry weather.
Powerful broad-spectrum drug "Actellik"
Bi-58
A popular insectoacaricide of systemic and contact action, which is used against all sucking and gnawing insects:
- leaf rollers; aphid; mites; scale insects; thrips; leafhoppers; caterpillars.
Active substance The product penetrates into the tissue and protects not only the treated parts of the grapes, but also the growing shoots and foliage from pests. "Bi-58" shows excellent results at high and moderate temperatures. Sprayed plants receive strong immunity, and therefore delight the gardener with increased yield characteristics.
Confidor Maxi
An excellent systemic insecticide that helps gardeners fight sucking and gnawing insects:
- leaf roller; phylloxera; aphid; thrips; mole; scale insect.
Additionally, plants develop resistance to unfavorable conditions and lack of nutrients. The drug has a long period impact on pests – up to 15 days. The active substance penetrates deep into the tissues of the grapes and is almost not washed off by precipitation. The result is noticeable in the first minutes after spraying. "Confidor Maxi" can be used in hot weather. Remember: spraying is prohibited 20 days before harvest.
Early spring work to protect the garden are carried out from mid-February - early March until the buds open. Relatively heat during the day at this time of year it can drop sharply at night. On a sunny day at the end of February, the surface temperature of the bark on a trunk in the sun on the southwestern side is 12 -15° higher than on the shaded northeastern side. If the trunks and uterine branches have been whitened with 20% since the fall lime mortar(2 kg of lime per 10 liters of water), then the difference in heating does not exceed 3 - 5°.
The importance of this protective measure is obvious. After all, overheating and thawing of the bark during the day followed by freezing at night can cause bark burns. More often this (like freezing) happens in lowlands and in plantings on the lower part of the southern slopes.
Burns appear in the form of various kinds of spots, usually on the southwestern side of the tree. The bark in places of damage becomes somewhat depressed and differs in color. Wounds are formed through which the causative agents of black cancer, cytosporosis and a number of other diseases of trunks and skeletal branches mainly penetrate into the plant.
Early spring burns can take quite a toll large plots bark, causing the death of skeletal branches, and sometimes the entire plant. That is why, in the very first days of the spring thaw, restore the whitewash if it turns out to be damaged.
Take care of gardeners' assistants - insectivorous birds: tits, nuthatches, pikas, all year round living in gardens, parks, forests. After all, a great tit, for example, eats as many insects during the day as it weighs.
Attract tits, starlings, flycatchers, redstarts and other birds to your gardens by hanging artificial nesting boxes. They are attached to buildings or poles at a height of 3-6 m. Place the titmouses at a distance of 15-20 m from one another. Birdhouses can be placed in groups.
To attract birds It is advisable to plant along the fence hedge from well-branching shrubs: yellow acacia, gooseberry, rose hip.
Many pests and pathogens of plants overwinter on weakened branches. Therefore, remove dying and damaged branches, take them out of the garden and burn them. Clean the cuts and cover them with garden varnish or oil paint on natural drying oil.
If during the winter you did not remove and destroy cobwebby nests of dry leaves with lacewing and hawthorn caterpillars from the trees, as well as mummified (dried) fruits affected by fruit rot, also carry out this work in early spring.
The success of controlling garden pests and diseases depends mainly on timely and correct application chemical and biological agents plant protection. However, this does not mean that you should established scheme spray the garden with preparations.
When planning control measures, proceed from the degree of pest infestation of plants and the expected occurrence of diseases. You should not use chemicals “just in case.”
Before the buds open When the average daily air temperature reaches 5°, it is time for the first spraying of fruit and berry plantings. It is directed against Californian and other types of scale insects overwintering on the bark of trees, eggs of apple worms, fruit mites, various types aphids, apple moth caterpillars, against pathogens - apple and pear scab, leaf spots, as well as against mosses and lichens.
Before buds open, nitrafen, preparation No. 30 and its analogues, oleocuprite, iron and copper sulfate can be used in gardens.
Inexperienced gardeners mistakenly believe that chemical plant protection products recommended for early spring spraying of gardens are equally effective against all types of pests overwintering in the garden. This is far from true.
Preparation No. 30(and its analogues) - 76% oil-oil emulsion - highly effective against California scale insects and other types of scale insects that overwinter in the larval stage, and females, against false scale insects and eggs of fruit mites. The drug is less effective in combating the eggs of aphids, copperheads, scale insects, leaf rollers, and apple moth caterpillars located under the scutes. It does not give the desired effect in the fight against plant pathogens.
Used in a concentration of 3% (300 g per 10 liters of water) for spraying fruit trees (apple trees, pears, cherries and plums) and berry bushes (gooseberries, currants, raspberries), as well as ornamental plants.
60% nitrafen paste used to combat stages of scale insects, aphids, mites, leaf rollers, moths overwintering on the bark of trees and shrubs, as well as pathogens of scab and other diseases on fallen leaves.
When spraying fruit trees, nitrafen is used in a concentration of 3% (300 g per 10 l of water), and for berry bushes and strawberries 2% (200 g per 10 l of water).
To destroy pathogens and pears in fallen leaves in the spring, instead of nitrafen, you can use urea at a concentration of 7% (700 g per 10 l of water), solution consumption 25 l per 100 m 2. To avoid bark burns, do not allow the urea solution to get on the branches.
Oleocuprite- the drug contains petroleum oil (73%) and copper naphthenate (15%). It is used by spraying apple trees before buds open to combat the eggs of aphids, copperheads, mites, as well as against scab and other spots. The concentration of the working solution is 4% (400 g per 10 l of water).
Copper sulfate- 98% soluble powder - used before bud break to combat pathogens of scab, various leaf spots of apple and pear trees, clasterosporiosis, and other spots of stone fruit trees, anthracnose, septoria and other spots of gooseberries and currants. The concentration of the working solution is 1% (100 g per 10 l of water).
inkstone- 53% soluble powder - used for spraying apple trees, pears and the soil under them before the beginning of the growing season, as well as to combat diseases of trunks and uterine branches, including to combat mosses and lichens. To a certain extent, it inhibits the development of scab, other spots and moniliosis. The concentration of the working solution is 2-3% (200-300 g per 10 liters of water).
Spraying of trees and shrubs before buds open is carried out by washing, since only by abundantly wetting the branches can pests and spores of pathogens, most of which overwinter in bark cracks and other secluded places, be destroyed.
Even with very careful spraying, part of the working solution goes to the side, therefore, if strawberries, perennial vegetables and flowers are planted between the rows of the garden, in order to avoid burning the growing leaves during work, they should be covered with a synthetic film or other dense material, and the liquid accumulated on the coverings should be drained on the ground, without getting on cultivated plants.
On berry crops ah, the growing season of berry crops begins early; in a number of varieties, the buds bloom immediately after the snow melts.
In early spring, cut out and burn broken, weakened branches. They may contain glassworm caterpillars, stem gall midges and some other pests. Clean sections of large branches and coat them with garden varnish or oil paint prepared with natural drying oil.
At the same time, cut off and burn the ends of the affected gooseberry and currant shoots. They become black, hook-shaped, and dried out. When cutting into 1 - 2 buds, also capture the apparently healthy part, since the mycelium of the fungus usually penetrates them.
Before the buds open On the branches of black currant (less often red), abnormally grown, as if swollen, buds are clearly visible. Later they become somewhat similar to small heads of cabbage and bloom poorly. Swollen buds are affected by currants. If you cut an unnaturally overgrown bud and examine it with a magnifying glass, then inside you can see whitish, up to 0.2 mm long pests that resemble crustaceans. These are female currant bud mites, one of dangerous pests black currant. Each affected kidney contains several thousand females. Currant kidney mite can transfer mycoplasma disease of currants - doubleness - from diseased bushes to healthy ones.
Pick off and destroy swollen buds. If the bush is heavily infected, it is advisable to cut out individual damaged branches without breaking off the buds, take them out of the garden and burn them. Cuttings cannot be taken from bushes infected with mites.
To curb the development of fungal diseases and destroy the eggs of aphids, scale insects and false scale insects overwintering on the bark of branches; sprinkle berry bushes with a solution of nitrafen (200 g per 10 liters of water) before buds open. At this time, you can also use drug No. 30 and its analogues (300 g per 10 l of water) against scale insects and false scale insects, and to curb the development of diseases - copper sulfate (100 g per 10 l of water) or inkstone(200 - 300 g per 10 liters of water).
After the snow melts, clean the strawberries from dry and diseased leaves on which spores of various fungal diseases overwinter, burn them or place them in compost heap, covering with a layer of earth or peat.
Then it is advisable to spray the strawberries with a 2% solution of nitrafen (200 g per 10 liters of water) to inhibit the development of white and brown spots and, to a certain extent, gray rot.
Nitrafen has herbicidal properties- burns the green organs of plants, so spraying is carried out before new leaves begin to grow. Instead, against the listed strawberry diseases, you can use 3% Bordeaux mixture (300 g copper sulfate and the same amount of lime per 10 liters of water).
Nitrafen and Bordeaux mixture in the indicated concentrations before bud break are also used to spray raspberries against various fungal diseases.
An effective product for protecting the garden from pests and diseases. Available in the form of a dark brown paste, highly soluble in water.
In addition to protection, nitrafen has a stimulating effect on plant growth and development.
It cannot be used on green vegetation. This remedy is used either in early spring, before the buds swell, or in late autumn, after the leaves have fallen.
What is Nitrofen used for?
On fruit trees: against scab, various leaf spots, mosses and lichens. Effectively destroys aphids, mites, scale insects, caterpillars, leaf rollers and other sucking-gnawing pests.
To prepare a working solution, 200 g of the drug is dissolved in 10 liters of water.
To disinfect the soil, take 300 grams per 10 liters of water. For 1 mature fruit tree and
the soil underneath needs 10 - 30 liters of solution.
On berry bushes(gooseberries, currants, raspberries): - against anthracnose, scab, powdery mildew, as well as to destroy aphids and other pests.
The bushes and the soil under them are cultivated after the leaves fall. Dilute 150 g of nitrophen per 10 liters of water.
On strawberries: against leaf spots and gray rot of berries.
Strawberry bushes and the soil under them are sprayed with a solution at a concentration of 150 g per 10 liters of water. This is done in the spring, before the leaves begin to grow.
For weed control. Effectively fights woodlice, rapeseed and other weeds. It is necessary to cultivate the soil in early spring, diluting 300 g of the drug in 10 liters of water.
General spraying of the garden is also carried out to destroy the infection. the soil under the bushes and
around berry bushes and on the trunks of fruit trees with a working solution in a concentration of 300 grams of nitrafen per 10 liters of water.
When using the drug, you must follow the usual precautions as when working with pesticides.
If you have used Nitrafen, please write whether you are satisfied with its effect. Would you recommend using this particular drug to protect the garden from diseases and pests?
Your feedback will help many gardeners evaluate the effect of Nitrafen more objectively and decide whether it is worth purchasing it or not.
Interesting on the topic:
The best reviews from gardeners
I bought Nitrafen in the fall, but didn’t have time to process it, so I sprayed the trees today, 04/06/2019. I don’t know yet what will happen, summer will show how I protected my young garden. the drug was produced in Voronezh, Russia.
Stanislav
I tried nitrophen on peach. After the first application in the spring there was no leaf curl.
This year I sprayed the entire garden, both at home and at the dacha. There are too many moss and diseases. I hope it helps
Alexander
I always used nitrophen before. good effective remedy, but I recommend the best - 100 g of honey sulfate 300 g ammonium nitrate for 10 l. water. Excellent dissolution, excellent effect and fertilizer.
valentine
I tried the product Nitrofen for currants and I’m satisfied. I didn’t even look who the manufacturer was. The main thing is the result is super. Ukraine.
Danilovich
Last year I sprayed it in the fall, in the spring it’s still scary before the buds open, for a strong poison there’s a short period before the growing season, but in the fall that’s it. Even potassium cyanide will decompose over the winter.
I noticed that nitrafen works as a plant growth stimulator.
The grapes have never had such huge leaves as this year. The currant hybrid and many trees had branches broken by the harvest.
I don’t know, maybe it’s just a coincidence or maybe not, especially since the summer was very dry.
Of course, there were illnesses, but clearly less than before nitrafen.
This year I missed the autumn weather for processing, waiting for the windows in December.
This year I want to spray it with a mixture of nitrafen and the drug “30+”. It turns out an emulsion. This mixture covers the plants well and leaves no chance for mischief.
Last year I tried it when I treated almost everything with a regular solution.
I add grams 150-200 "30+" to the bucket
The result is an emulsion
Currently drug Nitrafen rarely used, because after autumn processing plants, it remains in the ground throughout the winter. However, in Soviet times This stability of Nitrafen was considered an advantage, so the chemical was used by all plant growing complexes.
Today, summer residents also spend treatment with Nitrafen. It is used against diseases such as apple scab and frost-resistant pest larvae. Apple, pear and plum trees are processed. The drug is used against leaf spot of berry bushes (infectious, fungal), anthracnose and powdery mildew. Plants are treated until leaves appear. They fight gray rot and weevils on berry bushes.
Scope of application
On fruit trees
The drug Nitrafen is used for the treatment and prevention of fruit trees from:
- Scab;
- Leaf spotting;
- Mosses and lichens.
The product also combats:
- Aphids;
- Ticks;
- Shchitovka;
- Caterpillars;
- Leaf rollers;
- Other sucking-gnawing pests.
The solution for treating trees is prepared as follows:
- 200 g of the drug;
- dissolve in 10 liters of water.
- For 1 adult fruit tree and the soil around it, 10-30 liters of solution are used.
Important! To disinfect soil, take 300 g of the drug per 10 liters of water.
On berry bushes
Chemical drug used for processing berry bushes such as gooseberries, currants, raspberries, as well as for grapes to get rid of such diseases:
- Anthracnose;
- Powdery mildew.
And also to combat aphids and other harmful insects.
Treatment of bushes and the soil around them is carried out after the leaves fall. The solution is prepared at the rate of 150 g of the drug per 10 liters of water.
On strawberries
Nitrafen effectively fights leaf spot and gray mold, as well as weevils on strawberries. To do this, the bushes and the soil around them are sprayed with a solution of the drug, which is prepared in the same proportion as for berry crops. The procedure is carried out in the spring, before the leaves appear.
Watch the video! Treatment of trees and bushes in spring with NITRAFEN
Weed control
Nitrafen effectively fights weeds such as:
- woodlouse;
- Crescent;
- Other weeds.
To ensure that there are no weeds on the site, the soil is cultivated in early spring. To prepare a solution, dilute 300 g of the product in 10 liters of water.
IN for preventive purposes and to destroy the infection, general spraying of the garden is carried out. To do this, treat the soil under bushes and trees with a working solution, which is prepared from 300 g of Nitrafen and 10 liters of water.
How it works
The drug acts as an enteric contact poison and has a fumigation effect. After spraying, the product remains on any surface (organic matter, soil), for a long time protecting garden crops.
Nitrophen, after being absorbed into the soil, inhibits the growth of weeds in this place (non-selective effect), however, it is not used as a herbicide, since according to reviews the drug salifies the soil.
How to use
Nitrofen working solution is prepared from paste or powder. It is added to water and stirred thoroughly.
Usually for 10 liters of water take:
- For spraying garden crops 150-200 g of the drug;
- For soil treatment - 300 g of product.
Important! The product should not be used on greenery. It is best to apply the treatment in early spring or late autumn when there is no foliage.
The drug Nitrafen can be classified as a prophylactic multi-purpose protection of areas. Treatment of plants with this product must be carried out in dry, windless weather early in the morning or after sunset. The drug must be diluted strictly according to the instructions, observing the dosage.
Watch the video! Spraying and treating trees and gardens in spring with Nitrafen
Safety precautions when working with Nitrafen
Nitrafen in diluted form is moderately dangerous for humans, but in pure form it is extremely toxic.
The insecticide is toxic to people, animals and bees. When working with this product, you need a respirator, glasses, gloves, and special closed clothing. After spraying, wash your hands and face thoroughly. Remember that Nitrafen is a flammable substance that can catch fire.
Nitrafen is a 60% dark brown pasty mass obtained by filtering shale phenols with a pungent odor of carbolic acid, which is highly soluble in water.
The product is sold packaged in glass or iron jars, in polymer bottles. The drug is developed to combat plant diseases and harmful insects. The protective effect of Nitrafen complements the stimulating effect on plant growth and development.
How does Nitrafen work?
Nitrafen is recommended for use in early spring, before the buds swell, or in late autumn, when the leaves have fallen. The substance has a pronounced fungicidal, insecticidal and herbicidal effect. Nitrafen provides fruit-bearing trees and cultivated plants long-lasting protection, remaining well after spraying on all soils and organic surfaces.
When Nitrafen penetrates into the soil, it has a non-selective effect, significantly inhibiting the growth of weeds. The drug is not used as a herbicide in private farms due to the unstable salinization of the soil it creates.
Instructions for use in gardening
On fruit trees, Nitrafen is used against lichens, mosses, scab, and leaf spots of various origins.
The drug effectively destroys sucking and gnawing pests: caterpillars, ticks, moths, copperheads, scale insects, aphids, winter moths, leaf rollers and others. The working solution is prepared from 200 grams of the drug and 10 liters of water. Wounds formed on fruit trees are also treated with a solution of this concentration.
For general spraying of the garden in order to destroy the infection, the soil around the trunks of fruit trees, under the bushes and around the berry fields is sprayed with a working solution of 300 grams of Nitrafen per 10 liters of water. Before this, it is necessary to collect and burn all the fallen leaves. To spray 1 adult tree and the soil underneath it, you will need from 10 to 30 liters of solution.
On berry bushes (raspberries, currants, gooseberries) the drug is used against powdery mildew, scab, septoria, anthracnose, to control aphids and other pests. To prepare a working solution, 150 grams of Nitrafen are diluted in 10 liters of water. After the leaves fall, the bushes and the soil under them are treated. For 10 m2 of plantings, 1.5-2 liters of solution is enough.
On grapes, Nitrafen is used to combat mites, aphids, scale insects, moths, and when infected with anthracnose, mildew, and iodium. The entire surface of the grapes, soil and vegetation under the bush are treated with a solution of 200 grams of Nitrafen per 10 liters of water. The drug has a burning effect on young greenery, so it is recommended to carry out all work in the spring, before the leaves bloom, or in the fall, when the green mass falls off.
On strawberries, nitrafen is used against gray rot of berries and leaf spot. To prepare the solution, take 150 grams of the drug per 10 liters of water. For spraying 10 square meters strawberry plantings will require 1.5-2 liters of solution. Treatment of strawberry bushes and the soil under them is carried out in the spring, until the leaves begin to grow. The air temperature should not be lower than 4°C. Only one treatment is allowed.
Nitrafen effectively fights weeds: rapeseed, woodlice and others. The soil must be treated in early spring by dissolving 300 grams of the drug in 10 liters of water.
Precautionary measures
Early spring and late autumn use - safe way application of Nitrafen, proven in practice. The drug can be considered a preventive rather than symptomatic weapon for gardeners for multi-purpose support of plots. It is recommended to spray plots in light winds, in dry weather, choosing evening or morning hours.
Working with Nitrafen requires caution and compliance with all personal safety measures. This drug in its pure form is poisonous and can cause irritation to the respiratory tract, skin, and eye mucosa.
Prolonged contact with the product can lead to the development of severe dermatitis. When preparing the working solution, it is prohibited to exceed the concentrations of the substance recommended by the manufacturer. It is not recommended to use Nitrafen more than once every 3 years. The drug should not be used during pregnancy.
Nitrafen remains in the soil for a long time (with autumn preventive spraying throughout the winter), so it is currently not used so actively. Chemical resistance the product was considered an advantage in the Soviet years, when Nitrafen was widely used in crop production complexes.
Nitrafen analogues
Instead of Nitrafen, its analogues can be used in gardens before buds open:
- Oleocuprite is a drug consisting of petroleum oil and copper naphthenate to combat the eggs of mites, copperheads, aphids, as well as against various spots and scabs; For spraying fruit trees and berry bushes, a solution of 400 grams of the drug in 10 liters of water is used.
- Copper sulfate is effective against the pathogens of scab, clasterosporiasis, anthracnose, septoria, various spots, a working solution of 1% concentration is used: 100 grams per 10 liters of water.
- Iron sulfate - a working solution of 2-3% concentration (200-300 grams per 10 liters of water) is used before the start of the growing season to spray fruit trees and the soil underneath them; effective against lichens and mosses, inhibits the development of spots, scab, moniliosis, fights diseases of trunks and uterine branches.