Edging is a basic step in the process of manufacturing cabinet furniture from slab materials. The article about the easiest way to edge was shown - manually, using ordinary household tools. There are highly specialized tools designed for cutting edges that can make the work of a furniture maker much easier and faster.
Tool for end (end) edge trimming WEGOMA KG94.
The tool allows you to quickly and accurately cut the end of melamine, PVC or ABS edges up to 1.2 mm thick and up to 54 mm wide with one click.
KG94 is made of durable plastic, equipped with two removable knives that work on the principle of scissors. If necessary, the lower parts can be replaced with new ones or sharpened. The fixed knife is adjustable in terms of reach and installation angle, this allows you to set a minimum, uniform gap between the cutting edges of the knives to obtain a high-quality cut.
Photo of the KG94 trimmer from different sides.
Operation of the lever and knives.
The KG94 trimmer is installed on the part.
To perform trimming, you need to press the lever.
Pruner KG94 in the process of trimming. The lever is partially pressed.
Edge trimmed with tool KG94
In the photo, the yellow one is melamine edge, “Wenge” is ABS.
If the adjacent end of the part had a glued edge, after trimming sometimes a small amount of glue remains, which is easily removed solvent or mechanically.
Tool for longitudinal edge trimming WEGOMA AU93.
The tool is designed for double-sided longitudinal cutting of edges up to 0.5 mm thick and up to 40 mm wide. For each edge overhang, two knives work: the main knife cuts off the overhang (excess) of the edge flush with the face of the part, the other one removes an angular chamfer from the edge edge and/or cleans up possible flaws in the work of the first knife.
Structurally, AU93 consists of two mirror-like identical plastic elements - half-bodies, connected to each other through two guide bushings with springs inside. Each half-body has three removable, adjustable knives, which allows you to work with the tool on either side, or adjust the sides to work with edge materials of different thicknesses. The main double knife has an adjustment for contact with the face. Additional two chamfering knives are adjustable for reach.
Photo of the AU93 trimmer from different sides.
Disassembled longitudinal trimmer. The smaller the edge width, the more the springs have to be compressed. When working with Chipboard thickness up to 18 mm, it makes sense to install weaker springs, or remove them altogether.
Half body. The main knife adjustment screw is visible.
Adjustment screw of one of the additional knives.
Set of new knives for AU93.
A similar kit can be purchased for the KG94 end trimmer.
The minimum possible thickness of the workpiece is 14 mm.
WEGOMA AU93 at work. The edge is melamine (yellow) and ABS (Wenge).
Melamine and ABS edges are cut to length.
Based on the results of using these WEGOMA tools in the production of cabinet furniture from laminated chipboards, the following conclusions can be drawn.
End trimmer WEGOMA KG94 is a universal, useful and necessary tool. It can be safely recommended to any furniture maker who still uses a knife. The trimmer works equally well with melamine, PVC and ABS edges, as well as with HPL plastic used for edging kitchen countertops. With sharp and adjusted knives, the cut is perfect or close to perfect, requiring only light sanding with an emery block.
Longitudinal edge trimmer WEGOMA AU93 does not always demonstrate in practice excellent results. When working with melamine edges, the tool often leaves an unnoticeable but tactile step that must be sanded down. Adjusting the main cutter knives did not lead to the desired result. On an ABS edge, the step problem is virtually non-existent. Additional knives do not justify themselves at all; they work with with varying success, depending on the pressing force of the half-shells to the material and the point of application of this force. An important advantage of the AU93 longitudinal trimmer is that it allows you to comfortably work with long, large parts in any spatial position.
An easy way to stick PVC edge
The easiest way to glue a PVC edge is to order hot melt adhesive to be rolled onto the edge from a furniture shop. Then glue it, heating it with an iron or hairdryer (naturally, not an ordinary hairdryer, but a technical one, which gives an output of 500-600 degrees). I myself have not used this method, so I can only talk about the negative aspects of it tentatively, based on work experience with the material.
I glue the PVC edge with regular rubber glue, which we sell on tap. “Moment” is best, “88” will do as well.
Knife and other hand tools cutting tools For PVC processing no good. Even if you manage to cut the edge with a knife, then, I assure you, neither the effort nor the time spent on this thankless task will pay off.
To process such an edge, you will need a router. Actually, a special edge router is used for these purposes:
But if you are not going to open your own production, then there is no need to buy such a machine. It is better to buy a normal, large router. In addition to processing PVC, it is useful for finishing the ends and for grooving - both at the ends of panels and on the layer. And if you work with wood, then you simply need a router!
It is not necessary to buy cool and expensive, quite good milling cutters from Phiolent - a reliable semi-professional
ABS edge cutter
To process PVC edges, the following cutter is used:
Therefore, the first thing we will need to do is slightly modernize our router by adding a step to the platform . It can be made from textolite, plywood, at worst, from fiberboard - in a word, from any sheet material 4-5 mm thick. You can secure it with screws, screws, etc., the main thing is to recess the caps or glue them!
Now you need to adjust the cutter height. This should not be done on the panel being processed. It is unlikely that you will be able to accurately adjust the height the first time. Take some scrap (but not very narrow, so that the router platform does not wobble), cover it with an edge, and adjust on it.
Usually, no matter how you set it up, there will be a small protrusion left after processing. It's not scary, just try to keep this protrusion to a minimum so that it can be easily cut off with a knife. When you finish setting up, don't throw away this scrap - you will need it next time. When you need to adjust the cutter height again, simply rotate it cutting part perpendicular to the end and lower the platform so that the cutter rests tightly on the machined edge.
The cutter is set, you can start processing the panels. You need to process in two passes. After the first pass, the cut will probably be uneven; with the second pass we level out all the protrusions and depressions:
Exactly in that order! If you change the order of passage, the cutter will knock out and chip the edge. From time to time, clean the cutter bearing and edge from adhering chips - the bearing can bounce on it and the cut will turn out to be uneven.
So, your panel has been processed with a router, but this is only a small part of the work. Now you have to do a lot of manual processing, which takes two to three times longer. First you need to trim off the overhanging ends of the edge. This can be done with large scissors or simply broken off after cutting with a knife. When breaking off, do not forget to firmly press the edge at the edge of the end so that it does not come off. Do not cut to the very root, but by stepping back by about 0.5 mm. It is better to spend time sanding or belt sanding than to cut off more than necessary.
No router processes PVC perfectly. In any case, there will be irregularities that will be clearly visible in the light. In most companies that make furniture for sale, no one bothers with further processing - they cut off the remaining protrusion with a knife, scratch it a couple of times with the back of the knife along the cut, and that’s it.
But you do it for yourself, right? Therefore, get ready to spend the same amount of time bringing the cut to perfect condition. First of all, use a knife to cut off the protrusion left by the router (if the height of the router is set correctly, you will have to cut a thin thread).
If you glued PVC with contact glue, then most likely there will be drips and sagging glue on the panel. Be careful when cutting them. It’s better to first remove them with a cloth moistened with solvent or gasoline. After this, go over the cut with fine sandpaper, smoothing out all the “waviness”, then polish it with felt.
Now you have a ready-made panel that is not inferior in quality to that manufactured at furniture factory, and maybe even surpassing it!
(chipboard) the edges of parts without processing have an unsightly appearance. To put them in order, furniture edges and profiles are used. It’s more convenient to work with them using special equipment, but you can also achieve good results with your own hands at home.
Types of furniture edges
One of the most popular materials for making furniture is chipboard. Its disadvantage is the unsightly edges that remain when cutting the part. These edges are masked by the furniture edge. They make it out of different materials Accordingly, it has different properties and prices.
Paper or melamine edges
Most cheap option— edges made of paper with melamine impregnation. The paper is taken of high density, impregnated with melamine to increase strength and glued to papyrus paper. Papyrus can be single-layer (cheaper) or double-layer. To prevent the melamine coating from wearing off, everything is covered with a layer of varnish. To make it more convenient to edge the parts, an adhesive composition is applied to the back side of the melamine furniture edge. When working, you just need to slightly warm up this composition and press it well against the end.
Paper or melamine edge is the cheapest, but also the most short-lived option for finishing the ends of furniture
The thickness of paper edge tapes is small - 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm are the most common. There is no point in making it thicker, and it will be expensive.
This type of edges is distinguished by the fact that it bends very well and does not break when bent. But its mechanical strength is very low - the edge quickly wears out. Therefore, if it is used, it is only on those surfaces that are not subject to load. For example, on the back of shelves, table tops, etc.
PVC
Received in Lately Polyvinyl chloride is also widely used in the production of edges for furniture. From painted to specific color mass, a tape of a certain width and thickness is formed. Its front surface can be smooth, monochromatic, or it can be textured - with imitation of wood fibers. The number of colors is large, so it’s easy to choose the right one.
PVC furniture edging is the most popular material used by both home craftsmen and professionals. This is due to the relatively low price and good performance properties:
Furniture edging PVC is produced different thicknesses and width. Thickness - from 0.4 mm to 4 mm, width from 19 mm to 54 mm. The thickness is chosen depending on the expected mechanical load or external appearance, and the width is slightly larger (at least 2-3 mm) than the thickness of the workpiece. Eat furniture PVC edge with applied adhesive composition, yes - without. Both can be glued at home (more on that below).
This type of edging material also has disadvantages: not very wide temperature regime: -5°C to +45°C. For this reason, furniture cannot be left outside in winter, and when pasting with heat, you must be careful so as not to melt the polymer.
Made from ABS plastic
This polymer does not contain heavy metals, characterized by high strength and durability. A disadvantage can be considered high price, therefore it is used extremely rarely, although it has excellent properties:
This type of edge can be matte, glossy or semi-gloss. There are also options that imitate various types of wood. In general, this material is more convenient to use and more durable to use.
Veneer edge
Veneer is a thin section of wood, colored and shaped into a strip. This furniture edge is used in production for gluing sections of veneered products. Working with this material requires certain skills, and the material is expensive.
Veneer is not the most popular material for edging
Acrylic edge or 3D
Made from transparent acrylic. On back side stripes are applied. The layer of polymer on top gives it volume, which is why it is called a 3D edge. Used in the production of unusual furniture.
Profiles for processing furniture edges
You can trim the edge of furniture not only with edge tape. There are also furniture profiles that are attached mechanically. They are available in two sections - T-shaped or U-shaped (also called C-shaped).
For T-shaped furniture profiles, a groove is milled in the edge being processed. The profile is hammered into it with a furniture (rubber) mallet. The edges are cut at 45° to make the angle look attractive. It is brought to perfect condition with fine sandpaper. This type of profiles is produced from PVC and aluminum; with the same installation method, they look very different, and the differences are significant.
In width they are available for laminated chipboards of 16 mm and 18 mm. There are also wide ones, but they are much less common, since they work less with such material.
S- or P- shaped profiles most often mounted with glue. They coat the edge with it, then put it on plastic profile, press and fix well. These PVC profiles there are soft and hard. Hard ones are harder to bend and it’s difficult to paste them over curved edges. But they have great strength.
If you still need to “plant” a rigid C-shaped furniture profile on a bend, it is heated with a construction hairdryer, then given the desired shape and secured masking tape until the glue dries.
We glue furniture edges with our own hands
There are two technologies for gluing furniture edge tape. The first is for those that have glue applied to the back. In this case, an iron or a hair dryer is needed. The second is for gluing tapes without glue. In this case, you need a good universal glue that can glue plastics and wood products and a furniture roller, a piece of felt or a soft rag so that you can press the edge well against the cut.
A little about what thickness of edge to glue on which parts. Those edges that are not visible, according to GOST, do not need to be glued at all, but basically they try to treat them so that less moisture is absorbed into the chipboard, and also to reduce the evaporation of formaldehyde. Melamine tape or 0.4 mm PVC is glued to these edges. The edges of the drawers (not the fronts) are also processed.
It is better to use 2 mm PVC on the front ends of the facade and drawers, and 1 mm PVC on the visible sections of the shelves. The color is chosen either to match the main surface or “in contrast”.
How to glue edging yourself with glue
The adhesive composition is applied to the melamine edge; it can be applied to PVC. If you choose PVC, it’s easier to start with thin ones - they are easier to process, any melamine is easy to glue.
We take an iron and a fluoroplastic nozzle on it. If there is no nozzle, thick cotton fabric will do - so as not to overheat the tape, but to melt the glue. A hair dryer is also suitable for this purpose. We set the iron to about “two”, while it is heating up we cut off a piece of tape. The length is a couple of centimeters longer than the workpiece.
We apply the edge to the part, level it, smooth it out. There should be small pieces hanging off both sides. We take an iron and, using a nozzle or a rag, iron the edge, heating it until the glue melts. It is necessary to heat evenly over the entire surface. After the entire edge is glued, let it cool. Then we start processing the edges.
The edge can be cut with a knife, both with the sharp and blunt sides. Some people use a regular metal ruler, while others find it more convenient to use a stainless steel spatula.
So, take the tool you have chosen and cut off the hanging edges of the edge. They are cut close to the material. Then cut off the excess along the part. Melamine and thin plastic are easily cut with a knife. If the PVC edge is thicker - 0.5-0.6 mm or more, difficulties may arise. Such edges are possible if there is one. This guarantees good result V a short time. The processing will take longer if you use sandpaper, but the result may not be worse.
One important point: when gluing thin edges, the cut of the part should be smooth, without protrusions and depressions. The material is plastic, which is why all defects are visible. Therefore, first go over the cuts with sandpaper, then thoroughly remove dust and degrease. Only after this can you glue.
Edging with PVC tape (no glue on the back side)
With this method of gluing PVC edges yourself, you need universal glue and a piece of felt or rag. We read the instructions for the glue and carry out all the steps as recommended. For example, for Moment glue, you need to apply the composition to the surface and distribute it, wait 15 minutes, and firmly press the surfaces to be glued.
Apply glue and wait - no problem. To press the edge tightly to the cut, you can use wooden block wrapped in felt. Instead of a block, you can take a construction float and also attach felt to its sole. As a last resort, you can roll up thick fabric in several layers and press the tape to the surface.
The selected tool is pressed against the laid edge, pressed with all its weight, pressing it against chipboard surfaces. The movements are stroking. This is how they iron the entire edge, achieving a very tight fit. The part is left in this form for some time - so that the glue “seizes.” Then you can start processing the edges.
Anyone who has ever encountered laminated chipboard knows that a board made of this material has smooth surfaces with a textured pattern, while its end parts are a jumble wood shavings with glue. To give parts sawn from such a board a marketable appearance, a process such as chipboard edging was invented. It consists of gluing a decorative strip - an "edge" - to the ends of the parts, which can be in color with chipboard decor, and be different from it.
Today, two main types of edges are used:
- PVC edge
- melamine edge
PVC edge used in the factory production of furniture, it is more reliable, strong, durable, but the edging procedure when using it is quite labor-intensive. Furniture shops use special edge cutting machines. The thickness of the PVC edge is 2 mm and 0.4 mm. The width also varies depending on the thickness of the chipboard sheets.
Melamine edge less durable, but requires a minimum of tools to apply and is widely used among home furniture makers. But due to its low mechanical resistance, its use is limited. Personally, I glue melamine edges mainly on drawers. Hot melt adhesive is always applied to the back of the melamine edge, and it itself is sufficiently resistant to elevated temperatures, so a simple iron is enough to stick it on. It can only be thin (0.4 mm) and I have never seen it wider than 20 mm.
Since our site is largely dedicated to working from home, let’s first look at how.
So, for work we will need the edge itself, an ordinary iron, a metal ruler, a clamp or a vice (optional), a fine sandpaper on a block.
The technique for gluing the edges is as simple as a nail:
Now let's figure out how to glue correctly PVC edge with your own hands, i.e. without use edging machine. Such an edge will last much longer than a melamine edge, and besides, it is 2 mm and looks “richer”. It is worth mentioning that the PVC edge can be as already with adhesive layer(hot melt adhesive), and without it. In the first case, edging occurs using construction hair dryer, and in the second case, you need to purchase glue. Let's consider the second method in more detail, because... it is more economically profitable.
Let's start with gluing 0.4 mm PVC edges. To fix it, it is best to use contact types of glue, for example 3M™ Scotch-Grip, Moment Crystal, Titanium or “88”. It is worth noting that it is more convenient to work with liquid glue (3M), it is easier to level and its consumption is much less. We work with glue according to the instructions indicated on the package.
Contact adhesive can be replaced with hot melt adhesive. For this you will need glue gun with a set of rods and an industrial hair dryer.
To work, we will need a roller for pressing the edge (successfully replaced with a rag or a piece of felt boots)), the glue itself, a spatula for leveling the glue or a simple brush, as you like, a wide chisel or a knife from a plane to remove excess edge, a sanding block with fine sandpaper .