Carve samples of wooden vases yourself. Wood turning: types and methods of artistic processing

Second an important condition safe work A finely grooved chisel requires that it always be directed down the slope, i.e., towards a smaller diameter. This tool is usually sharpened at 30°. this operation is very convenient to carry out

using a special device that I made for sharpening deep-grooved chisels, slightly changing its setting. The chamfer turns out perfectly smooth without edges. This device will be described later in another article, but now it should be clarified that instead of a finely grooved chisel to form the profile of a vase, you can use a deeply grooved one with a less jerky character, which is what I often do.

Photo 6 shows the finishing scrape of a turned outer surface vases with the wings of a finely grooved chisel, which is held at 45° to the surface of the part. Final alignment workpieces with a longitudinal arrangement of wood fibers can also be made using a jamb chisel, as shown in photo 7. True, it has a very rough character and even poses a danger, since when broken it can fly out of the hands and injure the turner. At the same time, in the hands of an experienced specialist, such a tool is universal, allowing you to turn almost anything, but only with a lobe arrangement of wood fibers, i.e., when turning transversely, a jamb chisel is absolutely inapplicable. By the way, its blade must be sharpened at 25° on the platform of the electric sharpener tool.

Having completed the formation of the external profile of the vase and leveled its surface, as well as applying small decorative beads and grooves with a finely grooved chisel (photo #), I wet sand the product sandpaper P220 grit. why I dip the “skin” in a plate of water and spray the surface with a sprayer. This sanding is preliminary. and in the future, after drying the product, final finishing will be required. Next, I cut off the supporting protrusion on the bottom of the vase with a thin cutting chisel (photo 9) and clamp the bottom in a chuck with the product supported by the tailstock (photo 10) for a tight fit of the front plane of the jaws to the bottom of the vase. The next step There will be a deep hole drilled in the neck of the vase, but since it is long, for reliability I decided to additionally fix the neck in a lunette (photo 11), the use of which is a common practice when turning vases.

Steady rests for small lathes are not sold; you have to make them yourself. My three-wheeled steady rest (such devices also come in two- and four-wheeled versions) is made of 40 mm thick plywood. The workpiece hole diameter is 220 mm, and the roller skate wheels with precision bearings ensure relatively quiet operation. I had just installed the steady when I needed to interrupt my work: I had to take a roll of cling film and wrap it around the vase (photo 12), otherwise the product made from damp apple wood (an extremely “crackling” species) would certainly have cracked during my absence. By the way, I also use this film to wrap half-finished bowls made of weak, very rotten wood to prevent them from flying apart into pieces when boring the internal cavity. The vase I conceived was supposed to be universal, that is, suitable for both artificial and fresh flowers. In the latter case, the water should be poured into some suitable small vessel, for example, a glass test tube 200 mm long and 20 mm in diameter, placed inside a vase (photo 13).

I didn't find a suitable one long drill(such as a Lewis or feather spiral with grooves for removing chips) for making a hole in the neck of the vase. I had to attach a simple flat “perk” 22 mm wide from a Soviet-era production kit onto a long (300 mm) steel rod with a diameter of 10 mm and clamp it in a powerful drill chuck with a Morse taper (photo 14). The very short base of my machine did not allow me to insert the cartridge into the pi-zero of the tailstock, and the thickness of the rod of the created device did not make it possible to secure it in a 10 mm cartridge conventional drill(9 mm). As a result, when drilling a deep hole in the neck of a rotating vase, I simply had to hold the cartridge in my hand with great effort, resting the rod on the tool rest. Photos 15 and 16 show the initial and final stages of this process. By the way, for convenience further use the test tube inserted into the neck of the vase should protrude approximately 5 mm from there.

At the stage finishing bottom, i.e. removing dents from the chuck jaws and leveling the end, it was necessary to unroll the almost finished vase on the machine. First, I machined a support faceplate with a recess for the diameter of the neck (photo 17). placed it there and supported the bottom with a crown center, into which he inserted an additional homemade narrow nozzle. When I later turned other vases of approximately the same shape, I simply carefully clamped the neck in the chuck using small F-type jaws, placing a strip of plastic more than 1 mm thick under them. A piece of coaxial (antenna) cable will also work as a softening pad.

Photo 18 shows the search for the center on the bottom when for some reason it was not marked or disappeared. The runout is marked with a black felt-tip pen, then you need to tap the mark with a mallet and move the workpiece so that the desired center is in its place. After this, the bottom is processed using a deep-grooved or shallow-grooved chisel (photo 19)

Upon completion of turning, the vase must be dried without cracking. In air, the formation of cracks is almost inevitable, which is aggravated large thickness vases in the lower part (the thinner the walls of the product, the higher the chance of avoiding cracks, as well as some warping). I dry my products made from raw wood in one of two ways: either I put them in a paper craft bag filled with wet shavings of the same wood (photo 20), or I fill the product itself with these shavings, which I then wrap in two layers of newspaper and place on a shelf in barn. The latter method is especially convenient and effective for bowls and plates with walls 4-8 mm thick, which dry in about two weeks in summer without cracking or warping.

Unfortunately, the formation of cracks in the thick lower part of the apple tree vase could not be avoided even after drying for two months in a craft bag, and circumstances did not allow drying longer. It was necessary to seal the cracks by gluing thin plates of the same material, sawn on band saw and then processed with grinder Proxhop with carbide disc and Black&Decker electric file. The inlays turned out to be almost invisible, but this additional work forced me to reconsider the technique of turning the vases in order to make their lower parts hollow to reduce the likelihood of cracking.

I must say that from the very beginning I was nagged by doubts about the legitimacy of the simplified approach, limited to simply drilling a narrow channel in the neck, which can be seen in a number of videos on the Internet. I used to bore cavities in the bottom of vases, but this always presented various difficulties. True, I rarely made vases. Last summer I made a series of vases of a similar shape, and the problem had to be solved radically. From the very beginning, a protrusion is turned at both ends of the cylindrical workpiece. Having formed external profile bottom of the vase, you should immediately begin boring its cavity using a steady rest, holding the workpiece in the chuck by the protrusion at the neck. Using a deep or shallow grooved chisel, a hole with a diameter of about 50 mm is bored. through which it will then be possible to insert any of the curved chisels - hinged, with a carbide nozzle or a cutter-nozzle (photo 21), and the residual wall thickness is constantly monitored by calipers.

Upon completion of the boring process, it is necessary to turn separately from the same wood material a plug of suitable diameter and glue it into the hole in the protrusion (bottom). Here you should estimate the depth of protrusion of the plug into the cavity so that the test tube, which will subsequently rest on it, extends outward by the above-mentioned 5 mm. If the test tube falls into the neck, an additional hassle will arise with gluing a piece of wood to the bottom of the vase through a narrow channel.

I cut off the part of the glued plug that protrudes outward on a band saw. Next, the bottom will be finally processed in the manner already described above.

If the vase has a different shape with a much wider neck, then

The tag will not work here as a vessel with water. What to do? The solution came quite quickly when I took a half-rotten birch suvel with a bright texture, harvested a couple of years ago in the forest, and turned it into a vase with a neck with a diameter of 35 mm. Next, in my supplies, I found a two-meter bright green plastic tube with a diameter of 32 mm and cut a piece about 160 mm long from it on a band saw, deciding to turn it into the required vessel. First, using a gas microburner, I made sure that this plastic is not thermoplastic, i.e., it will not be possible to weld the desired container from it. I had to turn to gluing, first by sawing off another small piece from the original tube and making an additional partial cut on it. Using an industrial hair dryer, I heated the section until it was soft. unfolded it flat, placed it under the press, and after the leveled piece of plastic cooled, using a compass, I drew on it the outline of a circle, which will play the role of the bottom in a tube vessel. Next, I quite accurately, albeit by eye, brought it

size according to internal diameter tubes (28 mm) using a Black&Decker electric file (photo 22). I drove the circle into the tube to a depth of approximately 3-5 mm and filled the outside with a thick layer of fairly universal waterproof superglue “Master” based on vinyl acetate copolymers, which I had had for ten years (photo 23). Bright color The vessel seemed vulgar to me, so I painted it with brown quick-drying nitrocellulose enamel. Subsequent exposure to water for a month showed the tightness of the manufactured vessel, and the general aesthetic properties of the turned vase with a living goldenrod branch can be assessed in photo 24.

Finally, I would like to note that stores sell a wide variety of plastic water pipes, from which you can easily make any vessels for fresh flowers and place them inside turned wooden vases. Photo 25 shows a number of such products that I created last summer from various breeds wood using the method described above.

DIY wooden vase - photo

Photo 1. Cross-cutting a log on a trestle. Photo 2. Sharpening a roughing chisel on an electric sharpener. Photo 3. Rough processing of the workpiece with a roughing chisel. Photo 4. Forming a protrusion at the end of the cylinder for the cartridge using a cutting chisel. Photo 5. Forming the outer profile of the vase using a finely grooved chisel. Photo 6. Finish scraping the surface with a finely grooved chisel. Photo 7. Finishing the surface using a jamb. Photo 8. Applying decorative beads and grooves with a finely grooved chisel. Photo 9. Trimming the support protrusion with a thin cutting chisel.

Photo 10. Clamping the bottom of the vase in a chuck with support from the tailstock. Photo 11. Fixing the neck of the vase in a homemade lunette. Photo 12. Sealing the vase with cling film. Photo 13. Glass test tube. Photo 14. Homemade perk
Photo 15. Start of drilling a blind hole for a glass test tube.

Photo 16. Stopper in the hole of the vase. Photo 17. Turning the support plate with a hole for the neck of the vase. Photo 18. Reverse fixation of the vase and search for the center at the bottom. Photo 19. Additional processing of the bottom with a finely grooved chisel.

All photos from the article

Wood is not only a material for making beams, boards and other building elements, this is also room for creativity, since this material is processed quite easily, so anyone can try themselves as a sculptor. Artistic processing of wood allows you to get a real masterpiece even from a piece of wood that seems ordinary at first glance.

Methods of artistic wood processing

Turning is far from the only way to process wood.

In addition to this, we can highlight:

inlay - while in wooden base pieces of other wood are inserted to form a pattern;

pyrography – ordinary wood burning. If you work carefully with a device with a thin tip, you can achieve outstanding results;

turning - in order to make turned wood products you will need a lathe and at least minimal skills in working with it;
hand carving – you can’t do without skills in working with cutters; it’s difficult for even experienced craftsmen to work with hard wood. But handmade very highly valued;
also to the ways artistic treatment can be attributed . Painting is often combined, for example, with carving.

Note! Using a machine greatly increases the speed of work compared, for example, with manual carving. All turned products offered at retail are obtained by processing the workpiece on a machine.

Turning on a machine can also be carried out using several technologies. For example, segment turning involves gluing a workpiece from individual fragments of wood and then processing it on a machine. By combining different types of wood, interesting effects can be achieved.

As for the list of what can be made on lathe, then it is big enough. You can start with simple turned handles for tools (the same chisel), and end with massive long products. Also, utensils and other useful household items can be made from wood.

Types of turning

If we try to describe the process in dry technical language, we can say that the turning process consists of obtaining a part from a workpiece that has the shape of a body of revolution. Since in the case of wood our goal is also to make this part look attractive, the aesthetic component is achieved by changing the diameter of the workpiece, combining different forms etc.

As for classification, turning on a wood lathe can be divided into the following types:

longitudinal - in this case, the workpiece rotates around its axis, and the cutter gradually moves towards it parallel to the axis of rotation;
transverse - differs from longitudinal in that the cutter moves in a plane perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the workpiece;
angular (tangential) – in this case the cutter moves at an arbitrary angle to the axis of rotation.

The classification can also be based on the purity of processing. Thus, during roughing, the tolerances are very large, but the rate of removal of excess material is high. Finishing involves finishing the workpiece and removing a thin layer of material.

Subtleties of choice

If working with wood is just a pleasant hobby and you don’t have a whole workshop with a full arsenal of all the tools at your disposal, then the choice of machine is critically important. There are a number of parameters, paying attention to which, the probability bad choice will decrease significantly.

What to look for when choosing

Most often, very compact devices, tabletop lathes, are purchased to satisfy the creative itch. Of course, in terms of accuracy and engine power, they cannot be compared with powerful industrial analogues, but the price of such devices is reasonable.

When choosing, you should pay attention to such machine parameters as:

maximum permissible dimensions of the workpiece being processed. The documentation for the machine must indicate the turning diameter ( maximum size workpiece in the transverse direction) and the length of the bed (maximum permissible length blanks);

power - roughly speaking, the more powerful the device, the better, but with increasing power, the dimensions of the machine also increase. So you need to find a middle ground;
the material from which the bed is made, as well as the material of the frame. From the point of view of stability, models with a steel frame and a cast iron frame can be considered optimal. True, the weight of such machines is quite large, so if you plan to frequently relocate it, then it is better to choose a lighter model;

Note! Machines in which the frame and body are made of light alloys can be easily moved from place to place with your own hands without outside help. On the other hand, they are not as durable as steel ones.

rpm adjustment range. All modern machines can adjust the speed, so you should pay attention to the upper and lower limits of this range. Thus, low speeds are suitable when you need to roughly process a workpiece in the form of a parallelepiped, and high speeds will be used for finishing processing, when you need to obtain a smooth surface.

As for the device, then key elements lathe can be called:

cutter holder – allows you to securely fix the cutter and move it in 2 directions during operation (along the workpiece and in the transverse direction);
headstock - in conventional machines it is located on the left (if the turner is right-handed). It consists of elements such as a drive mechanism and a spindle, the center of which rotates during operation, causing the workpiece to rotate.

Note! Instead of a spindle, a faceplate can be installed at the end of the headstock - a device that is necessary in the case of an end value.

tailstock - used to fix the second end of the workpiece; its end rotates freely, so that nothing will interfere with the rotation of the workpiece.

Wooden vases fit perfectly into any interior, and with their own appearance they can add zest to the design and serve as its accent. To decorate your home in this way, you don’t have to spend a lot of money on purchasing them.

DIY wooden vase

In order to make such a Vase with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

Preparation of the workplace

As usual, the first thing you need to do is equip your workplace on which you will work. The rules are not complicated: there should be no unnecessary things on the table, all the tools should be in their place and at hand. Not everyone has their own desktop, and you’ve probably already thought about creating one. Making a table is not difficult, but choosing a place for it in the house is more difficult. A good option- this is an insulated balcony on which you can start working on your craft at any time. If you have a specially equipped room with a workbench, then you are lucky. In a separate article you can read about where I tried to describe in as much detail as possible the entire process of its creation. After you have completed the process of creating a workplace, you can proceed directly to your future craft.

Plywood selection

The main elements will fit on A4 plywood, since some parts need to be made in several copies, you will need several blanks. The thickness of the plywood should be from 2.5 to 3 mm, and depending on the thickness, sawing should be done along the internal or external contour, this is important for the grooves into which the elements of the craft are inserted. Before transferring the drawing to plywood, sand the workpiece with coarse sandpaper and then with fine sandpaper. Wrap wooden block sandpaper and then start sanding. Sand the prepared plywood along the layers, not across. A well-polished surface should be flat, completely smooth, glossy-matte in the light and silky to the touch. Pay attention to grain placement, knots, dents and other imperfections. Quality and color. If the plywood is not of very high quality and delaminates when sawing, read the recommendations for elimination.

Transferring the design to plywood

You need to translate the drawing accurately and carefully: secure the drawing using buttons, double-sided masking tape or just hold it with your left hand. Check if the drawing fits the dimensions. Arrange the individual parts so that you can use the plywood sheet as economically as possible. There is no need to rush, because your future craft depends on the drawing. If time is short, then to speed up the translation process you can use the technique of quickly translating a drawing; for this, I suggest you read the article in the tips section:.

Cutting out a vase from plywood with a jigsaw

There are many rules for cutting, but you need to rely on the most common ones. First you have to cut it out internal elements then start cutting out the outline. There is no need to rush when cutting. The main thing is to always keep it straight at a 90 degree angle when cutting. Saw out the parts along precisely marked lines. The movements of the jigsaw should always be smooth up and down. Also, do not forget to monitor your posture. Try to avoid bevels and unevenness. If you go off the line while cutting, don’t worry. Such bevels and irregularities can later be removed using a flat file or “coarse-grained” sandpaper.

Rest

Fatigue occurs when sawing. Fingers and eyes, which are always tense, often get tired. When working, of course, everyone gets tired, but in order to reduce the load, do a couple of exercises. You can watch the exercises. Do this several times as you work.

Assembling a vase from plywood

The assembly of the Vase parts in this work is simple. When assembling, refer to the drawing. If some parts are not included in the required parts, file them down. When the craft is assembled without problems, glue it together. The dish must be glued using PVA or titan glue. You don't need to pour a lot of glue.

Varnishing crafts

If desired, the dish can be varnished with stain to resemble valuable types of wood, or simply transparent; this is not necessary, but it will add greater individuality to your craft. Try to choose a good and high-quality varnish. do it with a special brush, take your time. Try not to leave any visible streaks of bubbles or lint from the brush.

Large floor decorative vases for the interior are stylish element room decorations. Do you agree that a craft made from wooden circles looks impressive?

We will create it with our own hands using small cuts of wood - round in cross-section. We don't need whole trunks, just branches from about one to three centimeters in diameter, as well as a base on which we will attach small wooden parts.

DIY materials for a wooden vase

As I already mentioned, we need cuts of tree branches, quite a lot, depending on the size of the vase, or rather, more on its surface area.

We also need something to serve as the basis for our craft. They can be anything, even simple tin, as you see in the photo below, or a flower pot.

It would be better if the tin surface was not so visible, so it is possible to first decorate it, for example, with twine or cover it with paper. Despite the fact that this work is done too roughly, the flowers in it look quite cute.

If you have a vase with a defect, for example, with a crack, or broken, it’s not a problem, it can be useful to us. We'll glue the broken one back together first. The surface and cracks on it will still not be visible - we will decorate it with wood.

The simplest thing is to find a ready-made base for our interior vase, but in principle there is another way - to make it yourself. It could be a papier-mâché vase; you can recycle a lot of unnecessary newspapers. Then the product will be very light and it would be better to make it in a different shape, more stable.

Or mold it from clay, and insert a regular one inside glass jar or a bottle so that the vase can be used not only as decorative item interior, as well as for its intended purpose - to place flowers or twigs in it.

It is better to carefully clean the cuts with front side, which will be visible to us. There shouldn’t be any nicks or special irregularities, we don’t want to get scratched. Whether to remove the bark or not is your personal choice, as you like or what effect you want to achieve.

Prepare some more good glue, we will glue these small round pieces.

Decorative vase - manufacturing

The wood can be treated with stain or left as is, it is a matter of taste and personal preference. It would be good to think about where it will stand decorative vase, in what interior. It is better to leave the saw cuts for light-colored furniture as is, do not paint them.

If the colors of the furniture are dark, then you can partly wooden parts or process everything at once to give them a darker shade.

Here the color is left natural, the texture of the wood is clearly visible - circles. I almost forgot - the cuts should all be the same thickness so that the vase ends up with a smooth surface.

Now let’s get down to work, actually creating our own design work - decorative floor vase made of wood. We select the size and glue the cuts so that as much of the base as possible is covered.

Between the large ones we glue small pieces, like a mosaic. You can start from anywhere, as you like. But it's better, I think, to start with the flattest (least convex) part.

When everything is glued, you need to let the product dry thoroughly. Decorative on top wooden surface If desired, you can varnish it.

This is what a floor decorative vase looks like in the interior. It is made of natural material, gives warmth to the room, and creates style. Various beautiful twigs collected from the forest or stems of dry plants will look good in it.

If there is a container inside, such as a jar or bottle, that does not allow water to pass through, then our vase can undoubtedly be used for fresh bouquets.

Vases are made using a similar principle simple shapes in the photo below. Wooden rounds can first be treated with stain to add color. Or leave it as is.

An interesting pattern on the texture is created by alternating circles of different diameters. Some wood types have their own unique pattern on the cut, this adds originality.

Products made from natural natural materials, in particular wood, purchased in Lately extraordinary popularity. You can pick up some ideas on sale and then repeat them yourself for the interior of your own home.

These can be not only vases, but also other small decorative items, even entire walls and furniture.