Lining on the inside with clapboard. Features and technology of wall covering with clapboard

Finishing a room with clapboard is the best option for those who want to carry out repairs in it without wasting time on tedious and very dirty work associated with leveling the walls. The lining structure has an excellent appearance and reliably protects the building from the outside from blowing.

Compared to other finishing materials, it creates an environmentally friendly, healthy indoor climate. The article will tell you how to cover a room with clapboard.

Types and advantages of lining

Before covering a room with clapboard, you need to familiarize yourself with its advantages and features and learn about the possible varieties.

Advantages:

No rough surface finishing required.
Panels can be easily assembled, this creates an absolutely smooth surface without traces of the installation of fasteners.
If a gap is formed between the wall and the lining, you can freely hide all the wires and pipes in it Moreover, this gap perfectly absorbs noise and provides additional thermal insulation.

For cladding, plastic, wooden or MDF-based lining is used.

The advantages of plastic are:

Moisture resistance.
Does not require special care . Dirt can be easily and quickly removed with a damp cloth.
A wide range of. Plastic can be easily cut and painted in any way, which allows you to choose the desired design option without much difficulty.
Affordable price. This is due to the low cost of raw materials and low production costs of the material.

The disadvantage of plastic lining is its low degree of environmental friendliness.

For the manufacture of wooden panels for interior decoration, wood is used from:

Ash. There are small vessels on its surface, and the cut represents a kind of original ornament.
Maple. It has a noble texture and a wide range of colors.
Nut. It has sufficient hardness and is easy to give in machining. The color scheme and structure of the material is determined by the region where it grows. It is not subject to deformation during operation.
Cherries. The noble shade is easily recognizable, and over time the wood begins to darken.

Unlike plastic, it is a natural material with high environmental properties. In addition, wooden lining is quite durable and has an aesthetic appearance.

The disadvantages of the material include:

Not a high enough degree of moisture resistance.
Susceptible to the negative effects of mold and mildew.
High cost of products.

Lining made on the basis of MDF is budget analogue wood panels. Sawdust is used to make it. The material is as natural as wood; no synthetic resins are used in its production.

To glue the elements, a special substance is taken - ligin, which emerges from sawdust when heated. On the outside of MDF boards, paper with a pattern imitating wooden surface. The parts are varnished on top, which gives the paper strength.

How to prepare lining for installation

Covering a room with clapboard should begin with its preparation.

For this:

The material is coated with special agents that prevent any damage to the wood, which can lead to:

rotting;
the appearance of mold;
accumulation of harmful insects.

Tip: Wood can be treated with glaze or a special stain, which will protect its surface and give the desired color to the products.

The lining dries well.
It is brought into the house for 24 hours. This will be necessary so that boards made of such material can adapt to the temperature in the room, do not dry out and do not subsequently shrink.
Installation is carried out on the sheathing, which serves as a supporting structure for the entire sheathing.
For such a frame, slats can be purchased ready-made or cut with your own hands from inch boards electric saw with a small section of the required length.
The sheathing is securely fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws with a fastening element spacing of up to 60 centimeters.
During the construction of the sheathing, the supporting structure is leveled. For this, a plumb line or building level is used.
To increase the durability of the sheathing, a gap is left between it and the wall, which will become a kind of ventilation hole.
If necessary, wall surfaces are insulated, which increases their noise resistance. For this:

insulation is installed;
covered with a vapor barrier.

The sheathing for the installation of the lining is being built.
The structure is coated with a primer, which will protect it from the occurrence of fungus and mold.
The process of installing the sheathing can be seen in the video in this article.

How to attach the lining

How to cover a room with clapboard?

The video shows what methods of fastening the material exist. After viewing it, everyone can choose the most convenient and familiar view for fixing it. Lining is planks with a recess on one side and a tenon on the other, which is inserted into the recess of the next element during installation.

Fasteners are:

External.
Secret.

Fixation can be done:

With nails.
Decorative screws.
Stapling staples.
Kleimers.

Advice: With any method of fastening, you must try to do everything carefully so as not to damage the lining or split the wood, this can ruin the appearance of the surface. In this case, the head of the nail is hammered completely into the wood with a hammer, but you need to be careful not to chip the groove, this can weaken the fastener.

Methods of fixing the material:

At hidden method To fix the elements, the lining is mounted to the sheathing on the side where the groove meets the tenon. If it is allowed for the fasteners to be visible, the board is nailed with nails with small heads, randomly scattered throughout the cladding. This quick and easy method can be used when covering utility rooms.
Usually a more complex but accurate method is used: nails are nailed into existing grooves on the lining. In this case, the fastening will be practically invisible, and the method itself is called hidden installation.
High-quality fastening of the material to the sheathing is carried out with special devices, which are metal clamps for lining. The grips are made of galvanized sheet metal and have different shapes and sizes. Their choice depends on the type of material and the thickness of its grooves. On the one hand, the parts are cut with teeth into grooves on the board, on the other hand, they are attached to the sheathing. Clasps for lining are usually purchased with a set of nails.
Covering a room with clapboard is done using staplers using a special gun. A rigid bracket punches a groove in the lining and secures it to the sheathing.
A reliable fastening method is the use of decorative screws. Even a beginner can do this carefully.

Advice: Before construction load-bearing structure it is necessary to determine the direction of the facing. This is due to the fact that the sheathing is constructed perpendicular to the sheathing of the material.

Installation of lining

There are two ways of covering with clapboard:

Horizontal. This method is used to expand the room, which will create a feeling of spaciousness in the room.
Vertical. Allows you to visually raise the ceiling and make the room higher.

The house is sheathed systematically, plank by plank.

How to make horizontal cladding

You should always start fastening the lining from the ceiling to the floor, and the grooves should be directed downwards. This will prevent moisture and debris from accumulating, which can clog the grooves in the board, which will lead to premature destructive processes during operation, and the skin will quickly deteriorate.

Work instructions:

When installing the paneling horizontally using clamps, the fasteners are inserted into the recess for the previous board; nails or screws secure it to the sheathing bars.
For high-quality installation paneling, it is necessary to check the evenness of the wall with a level or plumb line every ten installed elements.
Before fixing the last facing board, it must be adjusted in width with a hacksaw or circular saw.
The part is nailed, and the gap is protected with a special plinth.
To cover the walls with block-house clapboard, with an imitation of a rounded log, installation should begin with the groove facing up, which will allow you to hide the joining points.
To prevent the formation of cracks, the parts must be adjusted to each other with a hammer, and to avoid damage to the material, a panel cut must be used.
The block house is fixed with a self-tapping screw to the sheathing slats at an angle of 45 degrees, and the caps are closed with a groove in the next lining element.
To decorate the corner between the panels of the block house, you need to insert treated timber. In this case, there will be no visible gaps in the opening, and there will be no drafts in the room.
It is not necessary to paint such a wall; the natural color of wood will give the room an interesting natural color and comfort. It is enough to clean the outer surface of the casing from dust formed during operation. But you can coat it with varnish (see), which will protect the wood from contamination.

How does a block house cover a room with clapboard? The video shows all the details.

How to make vertical clapboard cladding

The vertical lining of the room starts from the corner.

In this case:

A clamp is installed on the back wall of the part in the groove to secure the lining and is nailed onto the sheathing batten.
In the corner, the first board is fastened with nails; their heads will close decorative corner. If there are no such decorative slats, the nail heads must be cut off with side cutters.
The installation of elements continues by inserting one plank into another. When fixing the material with clamps, the fasteners must tightly connect the boards to each other, they will form a single web.
The installation of the lining on the wall is completed, as in the beginning - the board installed last is nailed down.
To give a finished look, the cladding is arranged using slats.

Tip: All joints, existing external and internal corners must be covered with special decorative slats, plinths and corners.

Installation is carried out in the direction from the window opening to the wall opposite it, as shown in the photo. This will reduce shadows between panels of material.

Covering the room with clapboard gives it coziness and extraordinary natural warmth. A house built from brick, stone and other materials is distinguished by its strength, but with cold beauty. Sheathing it wooden clapboard outside (see) and inside allows you to bring the building as close as possible to the natural and fashionable eco-style, creating the impression that the house is entirely built of wood.

The method of creating durable skins for railway cars by connecting boards using a tongue-and-groove lock was copied by builders. Covering the walls with clapboard turned out to be practical.

The board looks beautiful, there are no through cracks when the wood dries and there is no warping. Installation is simple and accessible to all craftsmen who want to do facade siding and insulation with their own hands.

Types of lining and purpose

Restore the old dacha and bathhouse, give them a new look decorative look, make the apartment unique and warm, update frame house, the tree allows. My nephew stubbornly followed me, performing the duties of a helper. He learned how to clap the outside of houses with clapboards with his own hands and tried to lay the finishing material correctly. While we were working, we discussed the lining and its ability to give the building a decorative look.

Wall lining is made from various materials:

Tree.
A metal sheet.
OSB board.

Plastic and metal are used outside, in production premises, warehouses, insulation is laid under them. The lathing is made from metal profiles, there may be other options. Pressed wood boards used for painting. The finishing technology is simple, you can do it yourself. Starting profiles, outer and inner corners, and linings are selected for the lining sheets of the same color.

Kirill was interested in which lining was the most popular and varied. Wood has always been and remains the main building material. Use on the panel natural wood. As always, Kirill presented my stories laconically in tables. He did the same with wooden clapboards.

Wood species:	Moisture resistance level:	Application area:
Pine:	low	recreation room, living room, facade, veranda, attic.
Spruce:	low	balcony, terrace, attic, loggia.
Linden:	high	bathhouse, steam room.
Alder:	high	sauna, steam room, kitchen, office, living room, children's room, bedroom, bath, toilet, corridor, gazebo.
Cedar:	average	interior, facade, attic.
Larch:	high	steam room, bathhouse, sauna, bedroom, kitchen.
Oak:	high	kitchen, bath, office, living room, hallway, corridor, gazebo.

You can cover the façade and interior walls with clapboards and make partitions. The direction of laying the plank can be vertical or horizontal. The lining differs in cross-sectional shape:

Standard.
Eurolining.
American.
Block house.
Softline.
Landhouse.

Their main difference is the presence of cutouts for ventilation on the reverse side and the shape of the chamfers. The block house has an oval top, imitating a log country house. A universal lock allows you to combine them in one cladding different types finishing board.

Do-it-yourself wall decoration with clapboard (video)

Facade cladding with clapboard

We arrived at the address. There was before us old dacha, which had to be insulated, a beautiful façade made, and the walls saved from destruction by wind and rain. The walls must be covered with clapboard that was already lying inside. With the help of my nephew, I quickly marked the main horizontal lines along the base and measured the unevenness of the walls vertically.

We marked the beams at 40 cm intervals in order to cover the house with clapboard on the outside. Decor concrete plinth made siding to look like stone. The lathing was made of metal profiles. Natural materials They combine perfectly with each other, imitation stone base and wooden walls.

Kirill was interested in how to cover walls with clapboard if they are uneven and the wall material is porous, swollen and warped. We cleared the logs of dirt. Soaked protective compounds. While the façade was drying, the planks and beams for finishing were prepared and the vapor barrier was attached. Cladding a house with clapboard is done according to strictly defined instructions. The step-by-step installation procedure looks like this.

A starting U-shaped profile was installed along the horizon line.
We leveled it and secured the beams under the frame in the corners. The lower end was brought into profile.
We pulled the cords in the middle and at the top so that the frame was in the same plane.
The remaining beams were installed along the marked vertical lines and cords. The fastening was done through a trim beam, placing it along the depressions.
After this, the window and door openings were sheathed along the perimeter of the slopes.
Insulation was placed in the gap between the sheathing strips.
We covered everything with a water barrier.
Each wall began to be covered with clapboard from the lower left corner.

First, we positioned the lath at the corner to lay the ends on the same line, making sure to leave a gap for the wood to swell. We attached the first row of lamellas from above, screwing a self-tapping screw into each beam. The rest, taking into account the vertical arrangement of the lamellas, fastened the lining with thin nails, driving them into the lower part of the lock. The next row was offset; before nailing, a small gap was left so that the frame could play.

When sheathing with metal and plastic lining, a clamp is used. It is inserted into the lock at the bottom of the groove. We made the front wall of the facade with vertical cladding using a clamp. How to cover walls with clapboard with your own hands is shown in the video. The location of the board depends on the wishes of the owner of the house:

Horizontal.
Vertical.
Oblique.
Herringbone.
In a checkerboard pattern.

The sketch is sketched in advance, and the beam is attached perpendicular to the direction of the cladding. Platbands, corner elements and decorative designs with carved patterns are done after the lining on the walls is completely installed.

Interior wall decoration

Kirill helped me complete the next order, sewing large room clapboard in the house. The customer wanted to make a living room with a fireplace for relaxation in Provence style. We had to combine the finishes. We leveled the wall with the fireplace using dry plaster and plasterboard. The lath was made of metal profile. After sealing the joints, wallpaper was hung at a distance from the fireplace. The fireplace was lined with artificial stone, with thermal insulation between the stone and vinyl wallpaper.

Pine slats with a Softline profile, thanks to the rounded chamfer on top, imitate the laying of overlapping boards. The cladding material has a decorative appearance, especially the Extra grade, which has a pattern without knots. You can look at the clapboard-covered wall endlessly. It can decorate any interior. The design in its diversity is presented in the photo.

The advantages of frame construction are the ability to quickly build a house, make it warm and beautiful. It was difficult to cope with the volume of work together with Kirill. We worked as a team of 4 people. The frame was installed earlier; the company that produces ready-made home blocks itself delivered and installed them.

I calculated how much lining we would need to cover the walls outside and inside, taking the size from the frame drawing. Now the lamellas have been cut in advance. The length of each board was 5 cm less height. The idea to sheathe the block house vertically with clapboard belonged to my nephew. Original design and practicality were combined in this decision. Textured wall looked decorative and original on the streets. The water flowed down the varnished surfaces without stopping.

Horizontal slats for fastening the lining simultaneously held the mineral wool laid in the space of the frame. To begin the trim, we first nailed the slats horizontally to guide the trim slats vertically. We will screw fasteners into flat bars. A detailed action plan can be seen in the video. We decided to do the street front façade last.

By this time, a plan should be born in the head of our assistant Kirill decorative design external cladding. The appearance of a private home is of great importance. We used fasteners with clamps. They made it possible to fix and guide each board separately, maintaining a gap for expansion. The end bar was installed at the top. An ebb tide was installed below.

Interior decoration of the bath

A bathhouse is usually built from pine logs. For interior decoration of the steam room, wood coniferous species doesn't fit. When it heats up, it releases resin. With a small amount, the aroma of the Christmas tree calms and puts you in the mood for relaxation. The sauna creates an atmosphere strong odor, heavy air. It is better to line the walls in the steam room with alder, which emits a healing aroma, or birch. Features of bath lining, use wooden nails. The metal has high thermal conductivity and will leave burns on the body upon contact.

Sheathing wooden house the clapboard inside seduces many with its naturalness, freshness, ability to “breathe” and fill the house with a special atmosphere, therefore finishing work is the main and important part of construction work. The outside of the house is most exposed to atmospheric influences, or rather to their changes, so high-quality and timely finishing is required here.

The tree should be taken care of both outside and inside, then the structure can last for decades. The photo shows an example careful attitude to the house and taking care of it.

Sheathing a house with clapboard wood is a simple way to transform village hut into a prestigious cottage that will be the envy of its neighbors, and the use of modern finishing materials helps solve a number of related problems.

Tasks solved by finishing

How to sheathe clapboard wooden house outside to solve several problems at once:

Enlarge and improve performance Houses.
Protect the facade from the destructive effects of the environment.
Push back the deadline significantly overhaul exterior finishing.
Easy care and maintenance of the lining.
Aesthetic appearance and beauty.
Possibility of using modern, high-tech materials such as glass, stone, metal, plastic, tiles in finishing.
Mix and match synthetic and natural materials, achieving the best result.

The interior cladding of a wooden house with clapboard is done after finishing the finishing work on the outside, but also for a reason. It is undeniable that a wooden house has many advantages and disadvantages, but it is also not immune to its disadvantages.

Fire, high humidity, rodents, insects, mold - a very small list of factors that negatively affect the general condition of the house from the inside. It would not be superfluous to pre-treat walls and other wooden elements with fire retardants, antiseptics before finishing work.

Attention: During production building materials There is information about treating timber or logs with the necessary impregnations. “Trust but verify,” so it’s better to play it safe and do the processing yourself.

So:

Cladding with clapboards inside a wooden house may not be necessary, the main thing is to treat them with the above compounds and orient the interior to wood.
There are many options for decorative, structural finishing where they are used various materials. For example, timber used in construction can be covered with plasterboard, clapboard, or OSB panels.
Not only the materials used to decorate the house differ, but also the choice of different styles, of which there are also a great variety. Among all the proposals, two main ones can be distinguished - urban and rural style.
The interior of the house depends on the choice of style. The video in this article allows you to catch the similarities and differences in the selected options.
The rural option tends to preserve the natural color of the wood. The walls are cleaned with your own hands, impregnated with compounds and tinted.
Urban is reminiscent of the decoration of modern apartments, when the walls are finished with plasterboard and then decorated with tiles or wallpaper. Another method includes glass blocks used as inserts or walls; the main thing is to remember that the chosen style and material are directly related to the size of the rooms, their features and functional purpose.

How to do plating correctly

How to cover a wooden house with clapboard, if this material is a universal product. Do I need to turn to specialists for help or can I do it on my own?

The worries of home owners who have decided to clapboard the outside and inside of their house are very understandable. Every job has its own pitfalls that can appear at the most inopportune moment.

So:

For external work, material with best characteristics, which includes lining, decorated accordingly.
Insulating the house from the outside serves as the main obstacle to changeable weather and protects the building from atmospheric changes.
Wood or metal, what to choose for the sheathing? Wooden products are the most vulnerable and depend on the “whims” of nature. The tree will not stand for a long time without periodic processing, which cannot be carried out within the prescribed period.
The instructions recommend choosing a metal profile for the sheathing.
Vapor barrier in exterior decoration is sometimes neglected, relying on natural ventilation surfaces under finishing. When deciding how to cover a wooden house with clapboards, a vapor barrier must be present here.

The insulation is selected from optimal thickness layer suitable for a specific building, which is very important when working outside.
The counter-lattice is installed when the supporting frame is made of wood. What causes this? There should be some gap left under the cladding to ensure that there is no condensation underneath, and wooden elements are made with solid bars. To raise the finish above the insulation, slats with a product thickness of 3 to 5 cm are stuffed.
The metal profile is distinguished by its grooves or windows, so working with it shortens this stage.

Attention: The size of the insulation in thickness is selected based on the calculation when its surface does not reach the upper cut of the frame.

It happens that thermal insulation has already been purchased and is thick, then the lathing is mounted with guides on special pedestals (substrates) pre-fixed to the base.
Cladding a wooden house with eurolining begins both from the bottom and from the top
For external cladding, a material of at least class 2 is used, and if colorless varnish is planned for subsequent painting (see), then class “A” or “Extra” lining is purchased. The purchased euro-lining for the tree house is also of proper quality; there are no falling knots on its surface.

Sheathing location

No matter how you twist the lining, it can be positioned horizontally, vertically, at an angle, and then a combination of options begins. Each selected location has its own positive sides and disadvantages.

In places where there are heavy, oblique rains, horizontal cladding is preferable to a vertical arrangement. It is performed using a tongue-and-groove connection or with overlapping joints, which prevents moisture from penetrating into the gaps. The important thing to do here is high-quality cladding with good sealing of joints in corners and near openings. Another argument in favor of horizontal cladding lies on the surface. It is easier to replace it when damage occurs at the base of the wall. Whether you want it or not, moisture collects around the perimeter at the base of the structure, which has a negative effect on the surface.
When the sheathing is positioned vertically, water flows down it much faster, without having time to fill the cracks with moisture. However, with this arrangement of the lining it is more difficult to protect the ends of the boards from damage caused by increased moisture. Cracks, mold, and fungus especially often affect wood in shaded areas of the facade.
It should be noted that wooden buildings can be fundamentally different from each other, either it is an elite structure made of logs or a house made of old wood processed in a handicraft way. In any case, the external finishing of a wooden structure extends its service life and radically transforms its appearance if the basic rules and requirements are followed.

Installation of the lining outside, both horizontally and vertically, should be carried out at a water level or plumb.
The visible heads of the nails or screws used for fastening are lined up.
The lower cladding boards, covering the joints between the wall and the foundation, are lowered down by at least 20 mm.
The lower ends, as well as the longitudinal sides, are cut at an angle of 15º.
The distance from the metal castings at the openings is 4-8 mm.
Minimum number of joints, especially at the bottom of the walls. They should be evenly distributed along the wall. The boards in these places are oriented towards possible deformations, but in one direction.
The vertical cladding of the lining on the outside provides for joining at an angle of 15º with the joint supported on the batten on both sides.
Door and window casings should overlap the outer skin by 15 mm and no less.

Interior work

So:

The interior lining of a wooden house with clapboard gives people a feeling of unity with nature and creates extraordinary comfort and coziness. Properly performed work on filing finishing materials will help preserve these sensations for a long time.

All unevenness and flaws in the surfaces of the walls and ceiling will be hidden by leveled sheathing.
Before performing work, it must be treated with special antiseptic compounds. This will extend its service life and protect it from mold and mildew.
A wooden or metal frame is constructed. It will require the same tools that were used for exterior cladding: 20x40 mm timber, drill, screwdriver, level, fasteners.
The beam is attached depending on the location of the panels. The panels are lengthwise, the timber is across and vice versa, that is, they must be perpendicular to each other.
The finished frame is leveled, and if necessary, wedges are used for leveling.
On the finished base, carefully checked for level, the lining is hemmed in a wooden house and a suitable fastening is selected.

Attention: Fastening is carried out in staggered pieces different lengths, if the long side of the ceiling is more than 6 m in the direction of the lining.

The first row begins with a whole panel, the second - with an incomplete one, so that in the future the joints do not draw attention to themselves.
Fastening is done with clamps or self-tapping screws, and the groove-ridge allows you to accurately and fairly quickly dial the desired surface. The main thing is that the lining boards are from the same batch, which has been tested in practice more than once.
The perimeter, for example, of the ceiling is beautifully sewn up with special strips, and affordable option corners are decorated with wooden or plastic corners. You can use a planed board, but to cut it at an angle of 45º, you need to have experience, so it’s better not to risk it. The price of the services of an experienced professional will be fully justified by the beautiful and correct angles.

There remains the last stage of work related to processing and impregnation of coatings. Metal and polymer products do not need it, but wood must be treated.

The owners choose which compositions to use, relying on their experience or listening to the advice of experts. To summarize, it should be noted that a wooden house made of high-quality material does not always need finishing with synthetic products.

Significant structural defects or giving the house an aesthetic appearance prompt the owners to carry out finishing work on the outside and inside.

Owners of any home are invariably looking for ways to minimal costs Money ennoble it. At the same time, they naturally refuse all solutions that may be too complex or impractical in a separate room. Finishing turns out to be quite an attractive step interior walls clapboard.

Peculiarities

It is attractive to clap a wooden house from the inside... but in order for the result to live up to expectations, you need to carefully choose the type of wood. Both coniferous and deciduous types are applicable, but you should focus on the requirements of a particular room. The tasks that the coating solves may be different, and their priority also changes:

heat retention;
muffling noise;
providing comfort;
keeping things pleasant appearance.

The good thing about lining is that it is warm to the touch, harmless to health and very strong. This is one of the most convenient materials for everyday care. In addition to the usual one, there is also the so-called European format lining. The second type is more economical and practical, since a thickness of 1.25 cm with a width of 9.6 cm is considered by most experts best choice.

More large blocks only mean overpayment for additional material without a significant increase in quality.

When purchasing thinner material, you need to be wary of breakage when joining and simply moving. Of course, today it is almost impossible to come across finishing works where not eurolining, but the previous version would be used. Preferable in living rooms conifer tree. But in baths, deciduous material turns out to be much better, because resin comes out of coniferous trees when heated. It is by no means harmless and can cause burns.

The advantages of lining are:

excellent suppression of extraneous sounds;
no need for additional leveling;
biological and chemical safety of the material;
the ability to choose a variety of options for laying material with unequal widths and other valuable properties.

Preparation for installation

The walls are covered with clapboard from the inside on top of a special frame. To form the sheathing, take a beam with a cross-section of 2.5 x 5 cm. Such a substrate makes it possible to finish even walls with untreated and insufficiently smooth surfaces. In most cases, the panels themselves run horizontally, and therefore parts of the frame are mounted vertically. Of course, sometimes they do the opposite. A certain gap should be left before the rough wall to prevent the occurrence of dampness. Before installing the wooden paneling, ventilation ducts are installed where the floor and ceiling connect. Required application antiseptic impregnation on the frame beams.

When preparing to install the panels, you need to make sure that the walls are completely flat and completely dry, without the slightest deformation. Waterproofing is carried out, for which a special film is taken or deep impregnation is carried out. If you do not do this, the panels can quickly lose their valuable qualities, and you'll have to do the job again.

Areas affected by fungi must be treated special compounds, and ideally the entire surface should be treated with them. It is also recommended to use impregnation that protects against fire (this is important not only for baths, but also for ordinary houses).

If desired, it is quite possible to insulate or install a layer of sound insulation. To protect against extraneous sounds, it’s a good idea to use polystyrene foam or mineral slabs. It is worth choosing a vapor barrier film at the same time as facing material and in agreement with him. The vapor barrier is attached with an overlap at a distance of 100–150 mm. The material should be secured with staples using a stapler, and a lath is formed over the hydraulic protection.

This design will work more reliably when mounted horizontally. The beam is fastened with screws or nails, but if there is a brickwork, you will have to install frame dowels inserted into pre-prepared holes. Important: first comes a layer of thermal protection, and then lays it on top waterproofing film. Reverse rotation is not allowed. An additional vertical course of the sheathing is formed above the main frame, which is checked at the hydraulic level, because it is this that will serve as a support for the front panels.

If the frame is being prepared for a block house, a complete structure must be formed wooden backing. The slats are installed, the distance between which is a maximum of 0.65 m. Before the frame is formed, the points where sockets, switches and other electrical appliances will be installed are marked. The most accurate measurements are made using a square, plumb line and level. When screws are screwed in, they must be inserted at an angle of 30 to 45 degrees.

Material selection

4 can be used for finishing different varieties wooden lining. Depending on the selected grade, the cost of repairs and the aesthetic merits of the coating, as well as reliability, change. It is recommended to stick to the middle ground, as neither the cheapest nor the most expensive options will be the best choice. Various companies now produce not only wooden lining, but also decorative products from other materials. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages:

aluminum is light and quite durable, but does not withstand high temperatures and does not look very good;
polymer panels are relatively cheap, but do not last too long;
MDF fits perfectly into any interior, masks wiring and does not create difficulties when cleaning rooms.

With all the advantages modern materials Don't underestimate traditional wood either. It is chosen by various construction and finishing companies - and their choice is not accidental. Returning now to the types of wooden lining, we can characterize them as follows:

Extra - everything that does not have the slightest deformation or deviation from the norm;
group A - blocks without a core, single branches and resin-filled cavities are acceptable;
group B - there may already be two knots and a couple of resinous cavities per element, sometimes there are contrastingly colored areas and even cracking;
group C - lining almost unsuitable for finishing work, except perhaps for secondary premises of not very attractive owners, it is characterized by massive shortcomings, but must have at least standard strength.

Sequence of work and requirements

The frame for the lining must be aligned in one plane. The initial rail is placed strictly in a straight line, orienting it using a plumb line. The slats are attached using both self-tapping screws and simple nails (at the choice of the builders themselves). Then they move to the opposite corner and place exactly the same rail there. To create a single plane, strong nylon threads are pulled and the installation of the frame components is oriented along them.

Important: the distance between the slats must be maintained at least 0.5 and no more than 0.6 m, and the installed sheathing must be impregnated with antiseptics.

Sheathing with clapboard placed horizontally requires the grooves to be directed downward, and the tenons, accordingly, upward. Then moisture will not get into the grooves, even if it appears on the walls (as a result of condensation or in liquid form). Assembly can be carried out both from the ceiling and starting from the floor surface - this is solely the choice of the owners and installers themselves, as they consider more convenient.

But in both cases, the lining must be kept in the very room where it will be installed for at least 24 hours before laying out. Only under this condition will it be possible to guarantee the adaptation of wood to subsequent use.

To attach the slats to the frame using nails nailed into the grooves, you need to use a hammer. This tool is useful because it pushes the nail in without breaking the panel or ruining its appearance. The reverse wall of the grooves should be treated carefully, since the slightest crack during operation turns out to be a fatal violation. You should not fit the blocks too tightly to each other; on the contrary, leaving a gap of 0.1 or 0.2 cm allows you to compensate for the expansion of waterlogged wood during subsequent use.

Covering walls with clapboard means not only prestige and visible comfort. Wood lining has all the properties of wood: thermal insulation and breathing. The latter is determined primarily by the exchange vapor capacity - when there is an excess of moisture vapor in the air, the lining of the lining absorbs them; when there is a shortage, he gives. In addition, wood emits a faint aroma, bactericidal substances and neutralizes unpleasant odors. All this together creates a favorable, healthy microclimate in a clapboard-lined house.

Note: This publication discusses wooden lining. Plastic and metal are more resistant to external influences, but, firstly, they do not reduce or add anything to the quality of the living environment, secondly, they are noticeably more expensive and thirdly, the technology of covering them differs significantly from that for wooden lining. Therefore, clapboard from not wood materials houses are sheathed mainly on the outside.

Work procedure

Wooden lining can be finished living rooms almost any design style, either completely or partially, see fig. In the latter case, the lining may be effective means room zoning, top left in Fig.

The walls are finished with clapboards in the following order:

Preparing the building: if the walls are porous or cold (they conduct heat well) - insulation and waterproofing from the outside. Possibly also external decorative cladding. Neglecting this point will bring all efforts to create beauty inside to nothing;

Choice of material – wood species, profile and width of the lining boards;

Choice of cladding scheme: horizontal, vertical, diagonal, shaped;

Preparation of the internal base surface - leveling, vapor/water insulation;

Installation of sheathing under the cladding;

Wall covering with clapboard, using standard or simplified technology. In terms of strength and decorative qualities of the cladding, they are equivalent, the differences are different, see below;

Applying a protective coating to the casing;

Installation of sockets, lamps and other devices built into the wall;

Applying skirting boards to expansion gaps and corners window slopes and door quarters.

Material

Decorative lining is a type of molding - long-length lumber - and is a profiled board with a standard tongue and groove connection. A tongue and groove joint is a type of longitudinal tongue-and-groove connection with an open groove. Tongue piles come with locks (which do not necessarily require additional fastening of the boards to the base) and without locks. Lining for walls and ceilings is produced exclusively with lockless tongue and groove, because Locking tongues are reliable only in flooring. Laminate flooring is produced with interlocking tongues, which is much more expensive than lining. It is impossible to lay it on the walls and especially on the ceiling without additional fastenings. There are standard fasteners for laminate, similar to those for lining, but working with laminate is more difficult and it does not improve the microclimate of the room. The surfaces of walls and ceilings are subject to wear incomparably less than the floor, so there is no point in spending money on covering anything other than the floor with laminate.

Wood

Wall lining is made from various types of wood, both ordinary local and imported expensive ones. For budgets up to medium level, lining made of pine, spruce, oak, ash, larch and birch is available, see fig. Cedar, maple, beech, walnut and exotic woods are expensive. The dressing room and rest room of the bathhouse are lined with pine clapboard, the washing area with oak, aspen or alder; perhaps larch. Steam room - linden, aspen, alder; rarely - oak.

Note: Wood paneling and wood for lathing under it must be acclimatized before use - kept in the room that will be finished for at least 24 hours, stacked with ventilation ducts.

Pine lining is either the cheapest or very expensive. The cheap one is knotty, and the expensive one is made from the trunks of mast pine trees without knots. The knotty pine lining is nevertheless in in capable hands serves excellent decorative material. The breathing of pine is smooth and deep. Bactericidal properties and resistance to fungi and pests are excellent. To decorate residential premises, you need to take clapboard made of dry chip pine, cut down in winter. Pitch pine, felled during the period of sap flow, on outdoors holds up no worse than bog oak, but is too resinous and expensive. It is easy to distinguish resin from dry wood chips on sale: either streaks of resin are visible on the resin, or it stains your finger with it if you run it with pressure along the fibers. Interior decoration of a house with pine clapboard is the optimal option in terms of beauty, benefit and cost.

Spruce is similar in many ways to pine, but it is not necessary to cover the nursery and kitchen with it: spruce is not divided into dried wood chips and tar. The resin content in spruce wood is approximately the same all year round. Spruce lining is light, but it darkens faster than pine under the influence of ultraviolet (UV) radiation, so finish with spruce lining better room with windows facing north and northwest. A special feature of spruce wood is its excellent resonant properties. A conversation in a spruce-trimmed office turns out to be solid, thorough, and the music or sound of a movie in a “spruce” living room is clear, rich, and lively.

Note: On sale under the guise of spruce there is often lining almost the same color tone as pine. It is made of fir. There is more resin in it than in spruce, and the sound resonance is weak. Fir lining is well suited for the hallway, balcony, glassed-in veranda and other rooms where people enter in street clothes and shoes - fir lining retains bactericidal properties for a very long time.

Oak is famous for its strength and durability. With regard to decorative lining, the important thing about it is that the tone of oak wood differs within the same board. This gives additional design possibilities. Ash is also uneven in tone, but is lighter than oak and breathes easier. The oak-lined living room with south-facing windows can be stuffy in summer; It is generally not recommended to decorate the bedroom and children's room with oak. The oak muffles the sounds; If your music center makes your neighbors “happy,” then oak cladding can reconcile them with unexpected joy. Oak resists rot and mold very well, but wood-boring beetles readily gnaw at it. The house beetle most often infests in oak houses.
Larch is very resistant, breathes like pine. Not afraid of fungi and insects; ants and cockroaches avoid houses lined with larch, even mosquitoes are reluctant to fly there. Larch wood has a wide range of tones from tree to tree; the texture of its layers is more refined and expressive than pine. Larch lining, selected by shades, is expensive, but re-grading it is much cheaper and you can achieve interesting effects in the cladding. There is quite a lot of resin in larch, but it quickly evaporates and (mostly) becomes bituminized: larch lining, aged for a year, in this respect is equivalent to pine made from dry chips. It is the bituminization of the main part of the resin that explains the high resistance of larch wood.
Birch gives an exceptionally light, cheerful, positive interior and is aesthetically compatible with most modern styles design. Under the influence of UV, birch darkens slowly and weakly. Unfortunately, birch wood is very easily affected by fungi. Only 100% reliable way to guarantee birch sheathing from the appearance of colored veins and stains - underfloor heating in combination with good external insulation.

Linden, alder, and aspen are of little use for cladding residential premises. due to low mechanical strength; lining made from these types of wood is used only for. Lining the steam room in a bathhouse with linden makes the bathhouse light and suitable for women, children and weak people. Steam room with alder or aspen paneling - regular, medium. The oak bath is vigorous. It is good to maintain heroic health and strength, but it will not benefit an ordinary person.

Note: It is unacceptable to sheathe the steam room and washing bath with knotty clapboard made of any wood, because in the bathhouse atmosphere the twigs soon begin to fall out. In the steam room, in addition, knots turn out to be sources of fire and burn hazards; heat is concentrated in them.

Profile and width

Cheaper and easier to install with your own hands (see below) is the Soft Line profile lining (on the right in the figure); if the design requires minimal visible gaps between the boards, use eurolining.

The Shtil profile lining differs from it not only in its smaller thickness, but also in its more rounded molding - shaped chamfers of the outer ribs. Shtil lining, as a rule, is expensive, made of wood without knots. Lining under the timber is used, in addition to purely decorative purposes, for cladding utility bath rooms, because due to its greater thickness, it conducts heat less well and is less susceptible to knots falling out. Larch lining for timber that is at least a year old from the time of sawing can also be used to cover a washing room, but not a steam room.

Note: Eurolining is also available with a ridge height of 16 mm. This is the so-called. wind-resistant, for external cladding. Whether or not to sheathe the walls inside is up to you.

Lining of any profile is produced in boards different widths. If you intend to decorate the room(s) with clapboards with your own hands in an inexpensive, simplified way, as described below, then the width of the board becomes important: the last one in the installation order should be cut to the width as small as possible, and the trim should be no narrower than the baseboard + deformation gap. Let's explain with an example. Let's say the wall length is 4 mm (400 cm). We are trying to take a board 150 mm (15 cm) wide along the top surface for vertical cladding (see below). 400/15 = 26.67 boards will be used for cladding. So acceptable, 2/3 of the last remains in width; 4/5 or 5/6 would be better. With a 13 cm board you get 400/13 = 30.77 more expensive boards; a 180 mm board will not work, because... the width of the last one will remain only 0.22. A 200 mm board won’t work either: it seems like a whole number of them can be laid, but there is no margin left for trimming, see below.

American

American lining came into construction from wooden shipbuilding: there, cladding with overlapping boards is the only way to get seams suitable for waterproof caulk. American lining can be flat (item 1 in the figure) and stepped (item 2 and item 3 - profile with dimensions), to imitate herringbone cladding along its length.

It is believed that American women can only be sewn with horizontal belts. So, installing an American Christmas tree (like a blockhouse) with vertical panels is quite possible:

Each panel will go 2, 4 (as on item 4), 6, etc. an even number of boards.

The ridge is cut off at the extreme boards of the panel.

Under the joints of low edges (with cut ridges) bars are placed perpendicular to the main beams of the sheathing, see below.

High edges are connected with dowels (lamellas) - strips of wood or plywood. There is no need to cut them exactly according to the profile of the grooves; it is only necessary that the dowels fit tightly and the boards do not play relative to each other.

Sheathing made from vertical American panels looks no worse, if not better, than herringbone sheathing (see below), but it is technologically simpler.

Sheathing schemes

The easiest way to install lining boards on walls is to either mount them upright or lay them on horizontal belts. Horizontal cladding is generally more beautiful, but it is necessary to correctly cladding walls horizontally, always laying the boards with the ridges up. Otherwise, micro-reservoirs will form in the grooves (item 1 in the figure on the right), from which rot and infection will occur. At correct covering the sides of the groove of the bottom board (the first in the installation order) are cut off, pos. 2 in Fig., so that the groove does not become a pocket - a trap of capillary moisture. As for the vertical cladding, whether and where to cut the tongue/groove depends only on the installation method. Vertical cladding is used in damp rooms or with a high probability of condensation (bathhouse, hallway); here, the correct installation of horizontal cladding will not save it from getting stuck.

Diagonal clapboard cladding is rarely used, because is complex and results in a large waste of material, but aesthetically has almost no benefit. There are many shaped clapboard coverings; you can notice that, for example, plating with a flat herringbone (on the left in the next figure) is labor-intensive, but not as complicated as it seems: the fragments are cut according to a template in a miter box and mounted on vertical sheathing. They look great, but are more complicated than the lining diamond panels on the right in Fig. The sheathing for them is a cross with a frame, in the quadrants of which bars for the diagonal sheathing are attached, see below.

Lathing

You can’t just nail the paneling to the wall, even if the wooden wall is completely flat: a system of capillary channels will appear between the paneling and the wall, the room will become damp, and the paneling and, possibly, the wall will rot. Cladding with clapboard must be ventilated, for which ventilation channels are cut out in the undersides of the boards. That is, a wooden sheathing is definitely required for clapboard cladding.

Why made of wood? Because the sheathing material, similar in properties to the sheathing, also serves as a mechanical damper, especially if the base wall is made of mineral materials. For the same purpose, deformation gaps of 6-10 mm must be left between the sheathing and the wall, see below. If you put wooden clapboard cladding on, say, steel profiles for drywall, it will quickly swell or cracks will appear. And if, after a year or two, you remove the baseboards from the sheathing along the wooden sheathing, you will find that its edges have moved, but the visible surface remains smooth.

Schemes of sheathing for vertical, horizontal and diagonal cladding are given in Fig. General principle– the sheathing bars are perpendicular to the boards. Don't neglect the edge beams (marked in red!): there should be no hanging ends of the boards; the sheathing for diagonal cladding must have a continuous frame. The thickness of the sheathing beams is 20-40 mm; width 30-60 mm. The installation step of the beams is 4-5 board widths along the top surface.

Note 6: fastening the beams to the wall - 6 mm self-tapping screws in plastic dowels. In concrete from 70 mm, in brick from 90 mm, in foam/gas blocks from 120 mm. IN wooden wall– wood screws from 4x60. The beam fastening pitch is 400-600 mm. Attachment points 50-70 mm from the ends are required.

Wall

It is necessary to fasten the lining to the wall, taking into account the fact that the gap, lathed- ventilation, not a steam trap. Second, so that the cladding in an ideal room does not suffer from drying out of the wood, the unevenness of the virtual (formed by the outer layers of the sheathing beams) surface for the cladding should be no more than 2 mm/m and the total no more than 6 mm along the entire wall of any length.

Placing the sheathing directly on a porous moisture-absorbing wall (item 1 in the figure) is a gross mistake. A rather expensive and labor-intensive, but very reliable option for wall preparation is coating with cement vapor-proof plaster, pos. 2; at the same time the wall is leveled. To a fairly level concrete wall in a dry room, the sheathing beams can be secured with EC brackets for plasterboard profiles, pos. 3.

Initially, EC staples are thin perforated plates. In this case, the sheathing bars are selected in advance for evenness. The middle beam is placed first, the EC brackets, already attached to the wall, the ends of the beam are bent and fastened along its edges, then the intermediate brackets are bent and the entire beam is fastened without deforming it. The remaining bars are placed exactly in a plane, oriented along the middle.

However The best way preparing the wall for clapboard cladding - vapor barrier; in the bathhouse, kitchen, hallway it is impossible to do otherwise. The wall is leveled and foil insulation is applied to it with the foil facing out; the insulation sheets are placed on mounting tape with an overlap of 15 cm. Then plywood pads with a thickness of 8 mm or more are attached under the beams to the wall through the insulation, i.e. greater than the thickness of the insulation, and next to them are the sheathing beams, pos. 4. Thus, a continuous ventilated space is formed between the insulation and the sheathing, shown by green arrows in pos. 5.

Sheathing

The main principle of clapboard cladding is to start from small difficult places(see figure on the right) to large solid planes. For details on all the intricacies of internal lining with wooden lining according to all the rules, see the following. video, and we’ll see where we can simplify, make it cheaper and make it easier, working with our own hands for ourselves.

Video: installation of wooden lining

Professionally, the lining is attached to the sheathing with mounting clips: starting clips (pos. 1a in the figure) and running clips, or gluers (kleimers, clamps, clasps), pos. 1 b, 2 and 3.

Fastening with gluers ensures high labor productivity: a professional, using a pneumatic stapler, spends only a few seconds on the fastening point, see video:

Video: gluers for fastening lining

Second, the gluers do not damage the boards. For example, in Southern European countries wood paneling rooms are a symbol of wealth and prestige, but due to strong UV, the clapboard paneling there darkens with spots after 2-4 years. Then the sheathing is changed, the removed boards are sorted by tone and sold as used, but no one will buy a board with holes as working material. Installation of lining on gluers is technologically accessible to anyone, see another video, but it turns out to be cumbersome, because... In addition to the increased number of more expensive fasteners, special tools are also required.

Video: how to attach lining with gluers

In Central Russia, lining is under 2 layers acrylic varnish(see below) will retain its appearance for 10 years or more. With your own hands in your home, you can attach the lining to the sheathing with small screws or nails, pos. 4 and 5:

In this case, it is more convenient to work with the soft line (pos. 5), because the number of obliquely driven hardware is reduced. The fastener heads are recessed in plain sight by twisting the excess with a screwdriver or, if these are nails, with a hammer - a steel rod with a head for impact with a hammer strike at one end and the other end sharpened to a truncated cone. The simplest hammer is made from a 100-150 mm nail.

The recessed fastener heads are rubbed with wood putty. Because The cladding of walls and ceilings is not subject to heavy loads and wear; you can prepare putty exactly to match the wood yourself by mixing 2-4 volume parts of sawdust of the same wood to 1 part PVA.

Laying

Usually, the lining is laid in the same way as laminate: the ridge is cut off from the first board and placed in that place against the wall. However, since they do not walk on the walls and ceiling and do not place furniture on them, cladding according to the “everything in reverse” principle, pos. 6. Only cut to width size last board, and the first one is placed with the groove against the wall as is.

Protection

The panel (wall) covered with clapboard is sanded until smooth with sandpaper No. 140-160, then primed with a primer for acrylic varnish. Purpose of primer in in this case First of all, lift the small fibers left by the coarse sandpaper. After the primer has dried, the surface is sanded with sandpaper No. 240-280. After each sanding, blow off the surface with a vacuum cleaner (do not rub with a rag!). Two sandings with an intermediate primer will give perfect smooth surface. Her protection from mechanical damage and UV will be provided by 2 layers of acrylic varnish, colorless or tinted. The 2nd layer is applied after the first one has completely dried. In addition, varnishing will significantly reduce the fire hazard of the skin, but it will not prevent it from breathing: the breath will come from the underside through the deformation gaps.