PVC windows slopes. How to make and install slopes on PVC windows

After replacing and installing double-glazed windows, window openings need finishing. And if only a specialist is required to install a window, then anyone can do the finishing work. This process has a simple technology, so installing plastic slopes with your own hands is not at all difficult. Practical, inexpensive, easy-to-use plastic panels can be installed in just 3-4 hours, completely changing the appearance of the window opening.

To install slopes efficiently, you should thoroughly clean the surfaces of the opening and prepare all the necessary tools and materials. Plastic panels must have a thickness of at least 8 mm, and their length and width must correspond to the parameters of the opening. Plastic that is too thin will not last long, and it can easily be damaged during installation.

In addition to the panels, you will need:

You can start finishing no earlier than 36 hours after installing the double-glazed window. During this time, the mounting foam on which the frame is installed has time to completely harden, and even accidentally touching the structure, it will not be possible to move it.

Now you need to clean and prepare the walls of the opening by performing the following operations:

Production and installation of plastic slopes

When the walls of the opening are dry, a vapor barrier film is glued around the perimeter. At the joints, film pieces are laid with an overlap of 5-7 cm and glued along the seam. The edges of the film should not protrude beyond the window frame. After this, they begin to make slopes.

Step 1. Installation of the starting profile

The starting profile is screwed onto the outer edge of the window frame using short self-tapping screws. In the corners, when connecting a horizontal strip with a vertical one, the profile is fastened so that its inner walls fit tightly to each other, without gaps or cracks.

Step 2. Attaching wooden slats

Fastening wooden slats

Take slats 15 mm thick and 40 mm wide, cut them to the width and height of the outer edge of the opening. Using driven dowels, the slats are attached along the perimeter with their flat side to the surface so that their edges do not extend beyond the plane of the wall. Both the top and side slats must be aligned horizontally and vertically using a level. If the walls of the opening are not smooth enough, thin wedges are placed under the slats.

Step 3. Cutting the slopes

The length and width of the opening walls, as well as the bevel angle on each side, are measured very accurately. Cut lines are marked on the panel and slope blanks are cut out using a jigsaw or a sharp knife.

By the way, you can read about plastering slopes with your own hands on our website.

The resulting parts are applied to the walls and to the top of the opening, their location and tightness in the corners are checked.

Step 4. Installation of slopes

The F-shaped profile is cut to the size of the outer perimeter of the opening and the ends are filed at an angle of 45 degrees. A section of the profile is applied to the rail so that it is completely covered with plastic, but does not overlap the groove for attaching the slope. Secure the profile to the rail with stapler staples. The remaining sections are mounted in the same way.

The upper slope blank is placed in the upper starting profile, having previously covered it with sealant. Holding the slope suspended, fill the gap between the panel and the wall with insulation. The insulation layer should not be too thick or have voids. The outer edge of the slope is inserted into the groove of the profile and pressed lightly to level the panel.

Next, install the side slopes, carefully distributing the thermal insulation material. If the external walls are insulated, there is no need to additionally insulate the slopes. In this case, the voids between the panels and the base of the slopes are filled with polyurethane foam. It is very important not to overdo it here, since excess foam can squeeze out the panels or bend them in an arc. It is advisable to use foam with a low coefficient of expansion, apply it in small portions, evenly distributing it along the height of the gap.

Step 5. Finishing

The areas where the panels meet each other and the window sill must be thoroughly degreased. Next, the seams and cracks are filled with acrylic sealant. With a clean rag soaked in acetone, wipe away traces of glue and sealant on the panels and profile, and plaster the area of the opening under the window sill.

Plastic slopes are also used to decorate the doorway. The process of installing them is slightly different from installing window slopes. The surface of the opening is prepared in the same way: the frozen foam around the door frame is cut off with a knife, the walls are cleaned of wallpaper, paint or plaster, and all cracks are carefully sealed with mortar. If you plan to attach the slopes to the surface itself, it should be leveled with cement-sand mortar. If frame technology is used, it is enough to seal the cracks and deep recesses.

To work you will need:

Step 1. Frame installation

Measure the width of the opening walls from the door frame to the corner line. The slats are cut into pieces according to measurements. On the side walls, horizontal lines are marked with a pencil at a distance of 50-60 cm. Using the markings, holes are drilled for dowels and the slats are secured. If the surface is uneven, use mounting wedges or thin bars that are placed under the slats. 3 transverse bars are attached to the ceiling - 2 in the corners and one in the middle.

Step 2. Cutting the panels

On the panel, mark cutting lines with a pencil, forming a slope. The angle of inclination is measured especially carefully, because mismatched joints cannot always be repaired unnoticed. All fragments should be 10-12 cm wider than the sheathed surface in order to cover the edges of the corners. It is necessary to cut three blanks - 2 side and one for the ceiling. After this, the blanks are placed against the walls of the opening and the correct cutting is checked.

Step 3. Installation of slopes

Take the first slope and apply it to the wall of the doorway. Having aligned the joints at the corners, mark the fold line on the back side of the workpiece with a pencil. Using a sharp knife, make a vertical slit in the cavity of the panel, leaving the front side intact. Apply the slope to the surface again, level it and screw it to the frame with small self-tapping screws.

When the main part of the slope is secured, screw the protruding edge. To do this, determine the border of the panel, step 2 cm away from it towards the opening and draw a vertical line. According to this marking, 6-7 holes are drilled, wooden wedges are hammered into them, and then the edge of the slope is pressed against the wall and screwed, aligning the screws to the level of the wedges. Instead of wedges, you can use dense wooden plugs.

The second side slope is installed, after which the ceiling is sheathed with a panel. The upper edge of this workpiece should overlap the ends of the side projections; After installation is completed, the material is carefully cut at an angle and the joints are glued. The internal seams are coated with sealant, the excess is removed with a clean rag, and if desired, the heads of the screws are covered to match the color of the slopes.

Video - Installation of a slope on a door

Frameless finishing method

If the walls of the opening are perfectly smooth and even, you can simply glue the slopes:

to increase adhesion, the surface is coated with a deep penetration primer and dried;
plastic panels are cut according to measurements so that the edge of the slope falls exactly on the corner of the wall;
after this, glue is applied around the perimeter of the workpiece and several strokes in the center, and then pressed to the surface;
until the glue has hardened, align the corners and edges;
glue the side slopes, then close the lintel. The side cuts of the top panel should overlap the edges of the slopes by 2-3 mm.

Finally, the vertical seams are sealed, and decorative trims are attached along the outer perimeter of the opening to match the color of the door and slopes.

Video - Do-it-yourself plastic slopes

Video - How to make slopes on plastic windows

Facing internal slopes is the final stage when installing window blocks. To prevent installation seams from being blown through and to prevent cold bridges from arising between structures, the niche must be insulated and sealed. The interior decoration of the opening gives a neat appearance to the entire room. As a rule, these works are carried out by specialized installation teams. If you have construction skills and knowledge of how to make slopes on windows, you can do the cladding yourself.

To ensure that as much sunlight as possible enters the room, the slopes are formed at a slight inclination to the plane of the window, called the “dawn angle”. The name comes from ancient times, but its meaning is clear to this day.

There are no strict criteria for the angle of dawn. It is believed that it should not be less than 10°. This depends on the design of the opening, its depth, and the gap between the slope and the frame. The recommended bevel, which provides access to sunlight and a harmonious view of the window, is 1-4 cm for every 10 cm of the wall, but the owner can assign any angle value.

The correct shape of the opening is the same angle of dawn along its side edges. If there are several windows in a room, this rule must be followed for all.

Window Dawn Angle

Before you make slopes on the windows with your own hands, you need to set the angle of dawn yourself. To do this, use a square and a tape measure to measure the discrepancies between the dimensions of the frame and the width of the opening in each window.

Important. Select the minimum rotation angle along which the slopes of all windows in the room will be aligned.

Types of slopes

The outer walls of houses in the regions of Russia are quite thick - 40-60 cm. This is due to the climate and the materials used for construction - bricks, blocks, concrete. Therefore, the task of high-quality finishing of the inner surface of openings is relevant not only when installing new plastic windows, but also when repairing or insulating slopes with wooden frames.

Window niches are finished with materials:

plaster;
drywall;
plastic.

At the same time, foam plastic, expanded polystyrene, and mineral wool are used for insulation. They are glued or secured with dowel mushrooms into the plane of the opening. Finishing material is mounted on top. Polyurethane foam also plays the role of a heat insulator if there are no voids in its mass.

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The construction industry does not stand still. Sandwich panels are produced especially for finishing openings, where a layer of polymer insulation is enclosed on both sides in polyvinyl chloride plates 1-2 mm thick. Plastic profiles are provided for installation. They are fixed around the perimeter of the frame, and the material is inserted into the grooves. The task of how to make slopes on windows is greatly simplified.

Plastic slopes “like wood”

Important. When choosing a finishing method, the main attention is paid to the properties of the material - thermal conductivity, durability, practicality.

Plaster slopes

Plaster is a traditional finish for window openings. This is labor-intensive work associated with “wet” or dusty processes - mixing the solution, spraying, grinding with graters. The master must have professional skills and abilities. Today, this method is being replaced by other, more technologically advanced ones, using sheet materials.

Preparatory work

Slopes are carefully prepared for plastering:

Cut off excess mounting foam protruding beyond the plane of the window.
Apply a sealant to the surface of the seam to prevent water vapor from penetrating through the mounting foam from the street side and moistening the plaster.
Cover radiators, the perimeter of the window unit and fittings with film to protect from dust or splashes of solution.
The surfaces of the slopes are cleaned with a stiff brush.
Prime with penetrating compounds.

When preparing the solution, wash sand without clay impurities is used. Ready-made mixtures are convenient, which are mixed with water and stirred thoroughly.

Marking corners

At the bottom of the opening, a plane is marked along which they are oriented when pulling the side slope. To do this, apply a square and draw a line at the rate of 1 cm for every 10 cm of niche depth or according to the previously measured value of the minimum angle of dawn.

If the line does not pass through the edge of the opening, install a beacon profile. It is glued to the solution, pressing it to the desired level and controlling verticality. Now the outer contour of the window is set. All that remains is to fill the gap with plaster. If the voids are large, they are filled with bricks.

The upper slope can be performed without a slope. If there are deviations from the correct geometry, mark horizontal lines on the side walls and secure the beacon profile.

Plastering

Application of the solution is carried out in three stages:

Spray. Use a liquid solution similar in consistency to sour cream. It is designed to fill any unevenness or roughness on the surface. The slope is pre-moistened with water. Layer thickness - 4 mm for brick, 9 mm for wooden walls.
Priming. The mixture for it is prepared thicker. The main task is to level the surface and create plaster of the required thickness. Apply in layers of 15-20 mm, allowing each layer to dry. Level with a fresh mortar using a trowel or a rule.
Covering. The third layer, 2-4 mm thick, is applied with a creamy mixture prepared using sifted sand. Sieve cell - no more than 1.5 mm. Carefully level and smooth the surface with a float or plaster trowel.

After the coating has dried, the surface is primed and puttied. The work is carried out in several stages until the walls become perfectly even and smooth. Now you can paint or wallpaper.

Plasterboard slopes

When installing plasterboard slopes, the following rules are followed:

use moisture-resistant types of material;
install the side elements first, then the top elements, or vice versa;
when using U- or L-shaped profiles, the grooves must correspond to the thickness of the sheet; it is advisable to use components from the same manufacturer;
if you need to change the angle of dawn, a V-shaped groove is cut on the back side of the plasterboard piece, allowing you to slightly bend the sheet.

Plasterboard blanks are fixed in three ways:

glued with polyurethane foam or gypsum glue;
installed in the profile system;
screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

The choice of fastening method depends on the curvature of the edges of the opening and the need for additional insulation.

Preparation

It is much easier to prepare slopes for plasterboard windows than for plaster. Remove old coating, debris, and dust. It is recommended to prime the surface to protect against fungi.

If the curvature of the walls is significant, install a frame made of metal profiles or wooden bars treated from rotting. The cut drywall is attached to it with self-tapping screws. The space between the guides is filled with insulation - mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, polystyrene foam.

If the opening is geometrically correct, without major defects, there is no need to build a frame. The parts are simply glued to flat surfaces, adjusting the position according to the markings.

Cutting and installation

After measuring the depth and height of the edges of the opening, a plasterboard sheet is cut. To do this, cut a line along the marked points on the top layer of cardboard with a knife. Break the workpiece along it and cut off the paper from the bottom side. You can use a hacksaw or jigsaw.

Important. When fastening with self-tapping screws, the caps are slightly recessed into the canvas so that after puttying they are invisible.

Polyurethane foam or gypsum glue is applied to the part from the back side and pressed against the wall. After hardening, the voids are carefully filled with sealant. When expanded, it increases in volume by 3 times and can tear off the panel, so it is important not to overdo it.

Installation using profiles is carried out according to the following scheme:

Along the perimeter of the window, U- or L-profiles are installed with the short side in the center of the block.
The plasterboard blank is inserted into the groove of the profile, bending it to the desired angle of dawn. Cut out a template from available materials to mark the edges of the remaining windows.
The gap between the slope and the wall is measured and the workpiece is removed. Install a rail, brackets or metal profile around the perimeter of the opening.
Glue insulation to the wall.
The plasterboard part is inserted into the groove of the profile again, and the other end is secured with self-tapping screws to the rail or brackets.

The side and top slopes are installed sequentially. The ends are plastered, the joints are covered with sickle tape and putty. All that remains is to complete the finishing touches.

How to make slopes for plastic windows if there are no profiles? In this case, the installation groove for drywall is selected in the mounting foam adjacent to the window frame. The depth of the recess should exceed the thickness of the frame by 2-3 mm.

Finishing with plastic materials

For cladding slopes, single sheet or layered sandwich panels are used. The last option is the most convenient and technologically advanced, allowing you to combine 3 operations at once - insulation, sealing and finishing.

Polymer products are durable, resistant to moisture, and environmentally friendly. Additionally, they create a soundproofing barrier. They are easy to care for.

Important. High-quality plastics are not destroyed by ultraviolet radiation because they contain additives that impart light resistance or are coated with special renolit films.

Installation of sandwich panels is carried out according to the following algorithm:

Surfaces are cleaned and leveled.
Measure the dimensions of the window, mark it on a sheet of paper and cut it out. Use a hacksaw, circular saw, grinder or electric jigsaw for cutting. Place the tool on the front side of the panel.
Along the perimeter of the window, starting F or P profiles are attached to the frame. Use small self-tapping screws.
Sandwich panels are inserted into the grooves and secured to the surfaces with polyurethane foam. To fix the position of the structure, glue it to the walls with masking tape.

After the sealant has hardened and the joints have been sealed, the opening is decorated with plastic corners or an F-profile.

How to make slopes on windows is a pressing issue when replacing old blocks. Installation can be done from sheet materials or using traditional plaster. The main thing is good sealing of the opening, preventing freezing of the walls and heat loss through the cracks.

Reading time: 9 minutes.

When installing a plastic window, as a rule, the window opening loses its attractiveness. In this case, potholes, cracks, and remnants of polyurethane foam appear. What to do?

There is a simple way out - to make high-quality external slopes. To do this, it is enough to choose the right installation material and perform the work using existing technologies.

Let us dwell in more detail on issues related to the finishing of external slopes.

Purpose of external slopes

The coating inside the window opening, which protects the window profile from environmental influences, is called a slope. Conventionally, based on location, it is customary to distinguish external and. Although they are parts of the window opening, each has its own function.

The main functions of external slopes include:

giving the glass unit an attractive appearance. A high-quality window structure should not be adjacent to a broken wall;

increasing the level of thermal and sound insulation. Without high-quality slopes, it is impossible to create the necessary tightness of double-glazed windows, which means that the room will not be protected from the street;

protection of the window frame from environmental influences. A well-equipped slope protects the mounting elements of the structure from corrosion; in addition, the possibility of freezing and fogging of the glass unit is reduced. In any case, a protected window frame lasts longer, which means it does not need to be repaired or replaced frequently.

When installing plastic windows, installers rarely finish the outer slopes at the same time. This work is significantly more expensive than installation and is performed separately.

The sun destroys the foam

Advice!

It is better not to put off finishing the external slopes for too long. Firstly, unprotected polyurethane foam has no strength, and secondly, it will have a bad effect on the condition of the window frame.

About materials

All materials for slopes create their own decorative appearance and different levels of protection for the glass unit.

When finishing, the advantages and disadvantages of materials must be taken into account. Typically, the following materials are used for finishing work on external slopes.

Plaster mixture.

A long-known method is plastering. The plaster mixture is prepared from different compositions. For exterior work, you cannot use a mixture with gypsum, as it absorbs moisture and then crumbles.

The advantages of the plaster mixture include:

the ability to cover any surface;

economic benefit;

high resistance to moisture penetration.

Owners of plastic windows note the following disadvantages of plastered slopes:

high labor intensity and duration of work. The solution is applied in layers;

Low thermal insulation qualities of plaster can lead to freezing of slopes. In addition, condensation may accumulate and fungus may form.

Plastic.

Plastic panels have a hollow structure

The material is successfully used in window openings overlooking a loggia or balcony.

For slopes, sheet plastic or plastic panels are used.

The advantages of plastic slopes include:

glossy surface harmonizes with the window profile;

good thermal insulation qualities if you add insulation;

a wide variety of color options;

quick and easy installation with minimal waste;

long service life.

Gradually, the old slopes are replaced by new ones - plastic ones. The slope is the area that surrounds the window. It serves to mask the seams in the place where the frame is connected to the window opening. Plastic windows are rapidly gaining popularity among the people. And there is nothing strange or surprising in this, because such windows are an ideal ratio of price and quality. They look very neat and tidy, they are very easy to care for, and they are very easy to wash. This is guaranteed protection from street noise and absolute tightness. During installation, all calculations and measurements are made by competent specialists.

Plastic slopes and window sills are an indispensable addition to modern plastic windows, which gives them a finished and familiar look.

But you can make plastic slopes with your own hands. This is the last step in installing the window. The last stage on the list, but not in its significance. With plastic slopes, the window will take on a harmonious and finished look. If you take on this matter yourself, you can save about three to four thousand rubles, and reasonable savings will only be beneficial. Do not underestimate your strengths and capabilities, relying on specialists in all matters.

Why should you choose plastic slopes?

The main components of proper installation of slopes.

The slope is a very important element of the window design. Therefore, the choice of material from which it will be made must be approached with all seriousness and responsibility. Plastic is only a fragile and fragile material at first glance. In fact, it is very strong and durable. A properly installed plastic slope will protect your home from moisture, cold and drafts, and will not fade in the sun. And it will last for many, many years. Modern people want to make their home warm, comfortable and cozy. And the window plays one of the main roles in this matter.

Plastic has virtually no flaws. The only negative is that this work requires absolutely precise execution; there should be no errors. Then plastic slopes will serve you faithfully for a long time, protecting your home from blowing.

Basic tools required for installation of plastic slopes.

Necessary materials for self-installation of plastic slopes:

plastic panel (U-shaped strip of plastic, F-shaped strip of plastic, strip of plastic 6 m long and 8 mm thick);
drill with attachments;
hammer drill with drill;
wooden slats (1.5 cm);
building level;
stapler and staples;
screws, dowels;
saw on wood, saw on plastic;
hammer, screwdriver, pencil, tape measure, knife;
polyurethane foam;
mineral wool (insulation);
decorative corners;
white silicone sealant;
metal scissors;
vapor barrier tape.

So, having prepared all the necessary materials, you can learn how to make slopes and get to work.

Dismantling old slopes is the first and important step in installing new plastic slopes. Unscrupulous and poor-quality dismantling of old slopes will reduce to zero all the outstanding and wonderful properties of new plastic ones. Excess polyurethane foam and everything that remains from the previous slopes are removed.

The window opening is carefully and thoroughly cleaned of plaster. If anchors interfere with installation, they are also removed. The polyurethane foam is covered with vapor barrier tape.

How to make plastic slopes with your own hands?

It takes professionals an average of two to two and a half hours to install window slopes, so if you try, you can do it yourself in three to four hours. To do this work yourself, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for installing plastic slopes. Without slopes, the window will have an unfinished and unattractive appearance. The mounting plates and protruding pieces of polyurethane foam are visible to the naked eye. Remember that you can start work only a day after installing the window. Everything should dry well.

The window should be tightly covered with film to avoid damage when installing the slopes.

A day after installing the plastic window, you can begin installing the slopes, which will subsequently hide the mounting plates and mounting foam and give the window a neat appearance.

The first step in installation is to carefully level the entire opening. It is necessary to align horizontally and vertically. To do this you will need polyurethane foam. Frost-resistant ones are best. The resulting voids are filled with mineral wool. This preparation will protect the plastic from destruction. Protects against dampness. This is do-it-yourself moisture and sound insulation. After 20 minutes, excess foam is removed

The second step is to secure wooden blocks along the entire perimeter of the opening; the bars are measured and cut to the required length. Then you need to drill holes in them for the screws. Self-tapping screws 95 mm long are used for fastening. The slats should be placed so that they do not protrude beyond the level of the walls. Use a level to achieve perfect vertical alignment. The rail is attached directly to the wall with a drill or hammer drill.

The third step is to attach a U-shaped element (a seamless plastic profile) to a block. The starting profile is placed along the outer edge of the window. Self-tapping screws are used to secure it. It is better to take 15-20 mm screws and fasten them at a distance of 35-40 cm from each other. When installing a profile, the joint between the internal walls must be made without a gap. Measure the width of the window from the right to the left slope. Next, the U-shaped profile is cut to size using a hacksaw or grinder. The starting profile is screwed to the plastic frame with five self-tapping screws. The starting strip should fit as closely as possible to the window.

A U-shaped plastic profile, called a starting profile, is attached using self-tapping screws to previously screwed wooden blocks.

All dusty work has been completed. At this stage, you can remove the window from the protective film and proceed to the next step.

The fourth step is the F-shaped strip (a strip of plastic used when installing slopes). The groove of this strip is placed opposite the already installed U-shaped profile. But before that, it needs to be trimmed correctly. To do this, markings are applied along the height of the plastic slope, and the excess part is removed. After the F strip is filled, an overlap will form everywhere. Taking into account this overlap, you need to leave a small margin when cutting. When all work is completed, the overlap is cut off. The strip is attached to a wooden batten using a staple gun. Fastening is made to the part of the F-shaped end closest to the tree. All is ready. An F-shaped strip of plastic will cover the defective area and hide the entire internal unsightly picture from view.

The fifth step is insulation. You should install the plastic in the grooves and at the same time lay down layers of cotton wool. The plastic panel is placed in the starting strip, filled with cotton wool and secured in the F-strip. If you nevertheless notice that in some place the plastic joints do not fit perfectly, ordinary white silicone will help you. Cover the resulting cracks with it.

This is a detailed, step-by-step program of your actions. As you can see, there is nothing extremely complicated in this work. But there are still a number of difficulties that you may encounter when doing this work.

What difficulties may arise when installing plastic slopes?

If you do not want to change the plastic after a few years, then pay attention to the gross mistakes that can be made when installing plastic slopes:

The window opening must be well prepared. Otherwise, fungus and blowing may appear.
Incorrect measurement will lead to the same negative consequences.
Polyurethane foam is ineffective at temperatures from -12°C.
Voids and uneven areas are not foamed correctly.

In order for the foam to perform its functions well, remember that it is afraid of the sun, fire, and moisture. Excess foam needs to be trimmed, but this can only be done after 48 hours. This is exactly how long it takes to dry completely. If you can't wait that long, a can of foam with a dispenser will help. It doesn't leave any excess.

A schematic representation of measurements of a plastic window slope, which must be carried out with an accuracy of millimeters.

Consequences of incorrectly installed slopes:

All measurements must be made with an accuracy of one millimeter. An error in this matter can lead to the destruction of the polyurethane foam layer, and subsequently the entire wall. Moisture will begin to penetrate into the room, and all the work will have to be redone.
If the slopes are installed incorrectly, moisture will begin to accumulate in the corner of the window sill. This will lead to the window fogging up, ice will appear in winter, and the characteristic howling of the wind will be heard.
If the slopes are installed incorrectly, the window will have an unaesthetic and unattractive appearance.

If you notice at least one of these signs, it is necessary to redo the entire structure to avoid complete destruction of the window.

How much will it cost to install plastic slopes yourself:

A strip of plastic 6 m long - 700-4200 rub.
U-shaped strip - 50 rubles per meter.
F-shaped strip - 60 rubles per meter.
Wooden slats - 35 per meter.
Self-tapping screws and dowels - about 200 rubles.
Polyurethane foam - 300 rubles (two cylinders - 600 rubles).
Mineral wool - 500 rubles.
Decorative corners - from 100 rubles.
White silicone sealant - 150 rubles.
Vapor barrier tape - 400 rubles.

Thus, you can calculate the approximate cost of plastic slopes for one standard window. Prices are average for 2019. But the cost will be quite acceptable if you do this without specialists, on your own.

Making slopes with your own hands is not at all difficult. But this work requires a competent, responsible and thorough approach. If you decide to save money on paying professionals, then take into account all the small nuances of this work. It requires filigree precision of execution, and at the slightest deviation from established standards, everything will have to be redone.

Hello dear readers! I decided that it’s enough to write only about windows, it’s time to talk about the decoration near the windows.

Namely, we will talk about slopes and their finishing with plastic panels. Many will say that, well, this plastic is harmful. But, in my defense, I will note that it is not at all harmful, looks aesthetically pleasing and does not require a lot of maintenance and messy installation work, unlike plaster.

So, let me tell you about the slopes. For those who are not familiar, read it. Share your tips in the comments!

After installing plastic windows, the window opening does not look the best: foam, pieces of plaster stick out, and the wall material is visible in places. All this “beauty” is closed in various ways, the most practical, fast and inexpensive of which is plastic slopes. It is better to make them from sandwich panels (two layers of plastic with polypropylene foam between them). They are dense, durable, made of good material.

There are two main methods for installing plastic slopes: with and without a starting profile. Both come with step-by-step instructions and photos. Decide for yourself how to attach slopes to plastic windows. Both methods give good results.

Installation of slopes from sandwich panels without starting profiles

This method is suitable when the window is installed so that the distance from the window frame to the opening wall is too small. In this case, installation with a starting profile (see below) is either very difficult or - usually from the hinge side - completely impossible.

After installing the plastic window, the following picture was observed.

The installation of slopes for plastic windows begins with preparing the opening: we cut off the remaining foam with a stationery knife. It is easy to cut, just don’t overdo it, cut it flush and don’t cut it out - the foam both holds and insulates the frame. Pieces of plaster that interfere and protrude are also removed. If they hold up well and do not protrude beyond the plane of the future slope, you can leave them - the foam will slide less.

Then, around the perimeter of the window we nail (we place it on dowels if the wall is concrete) a thin strip - 10*40 mm - with the wide side facing the slope.

Usually they don’t level it, they nail it as is, but if you want, you can make it level by placing pieces of plywood, thin boards, etc. in the right places.

Now you need to cut the plastic panels correctly. You can do it in a standard way: using measurements, you can make a stencil. It seems easier with a stencil. Take a sheet of paper larger than your window (I had old wallpaper). Apply to the slope, crimp, bending the excess. Cut along the curved lines, try on, adjust as necessary.

It is more convenient to start from the upper part of the opening. Having made a paper stencil, we outline it on the plastic. Considering that about 1 cm will go into the foam groove, add this centimeter along the edge that will be inserted there. We cut it out with a small margin - it’s easier to cut it off than to cover it up later.

We cut it with a hacksaw and a metal blade, try it on, adjust it so that the plastic stands up straight, without bending. We level it so that the panel is flush with the plaster. The edge turns out to be almost even; where necessary, we trim it with a file.

Having removed the tried-on and adjusted strip, along the outer edge that will be nailed to the plank, we drill holes according to the thickness of the nails, retreating about 0.5 cm from the edge. This will make it easier to attach and will not damage the plastic.

We put it in place again, take a balloon with mounting foam and short “sprays” to fill the gap with foam. We try to get as deep as possible, but don’t pour too much: when it swells, it can distort the plastic.

There are several points to consider when working with polyurethane foam. If the plastic is smooth, the foam does not have a very good grip on it. To improve it, either treat the surface that faces the wall with sandpaper, and/or prime it with something to improve adhesion. The second nuance: for normal polymerization of the foam, moisture is needed.

Therefore, before installing the plastic, the slope is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. Naturally, there should be no dust on the wall - it should be swept away with a brush or removed with a vacuum cleaner. If the plaster or mortar is loose, the opening is pre-treated with a penetrating primer, which will bind the concrete particles together.

Then we lift the panel, pressing down the foam, insert the nails into the holes and fasten the outer edge to the bar. The inner one rests against the window frame.

Using the same technology - cut out a paper template, try it on, transfer it to plastic - cut out a plastic side. Here you need to be especially precise so that the gap between the slope panel and the window sill (upper slope) is minimal.

To do this, the edge will have to be sanded. To make the edge smooth it is easier, it is more convenient to process it with sandpaper attached to a smooth block, a file or a sharpening stone (half a circle, as in the photo).

We adjust it until it matches perfectly (as best as possible) at the top and bottom, and install it in place, driving one edge into the groove near the window. When the result is satisfactory, we level the outer vertical edge to the same level as the wall plaster.

You can do this with a stationery knife on the spot, or you can draw a line on the panel (with a pencil, a thin marker, scratch it with something sharp) and then modify it with whatever is convenient.

Having removed it, we also drill holes for nails along the outer edge. We install the panel in place, take foam, and fill the gap from bottom to top.

Too much foam is not good here either, as it can bend the plastic. Therefore, we fill it in short portions, trying to fill it as deeply as possible.

On the vertical parts of the slopes, you can do it differently: apply foam to the panel ready for installation along the far edge, which goes under the frame, before installation. The strip is made continuous or applied as a small snake.

Only you need to do this not from the very edge, but stepping back a little. Then the plastic part is inserted into the cut-out groove, positioned as needed, and the rest of the gap is filled with foam (do not forget to wet the wall before installation). Once filled, press, level, and secure with nails into the bar.

To prevent the foam from moving the edges of the slope during the polymerization process, tape the joint at the top and bottom with masking tape. No matter how hard you try to adjust the plastic evenly, gaps, albeit small ones, remain. They can be covered with acrylic. It is sold in foam-type tubes and placed in the same mounting gun.

Squeeze the strip into the gap, rub it, level it, remove the excess with a damp soft cloth or sponge. This operation needs to be done in small areas and wiped carefully - clean. As long as the acrylic has not hardened, it cleans up well.

Then - with great difficulty. It is more convenient to start sealing cracks from the top - immediately - the horizontal panel of the slope, then the joints, then move down first along one side, then along the other. The last to be sealed are the joints with the window sill.

After drying - 12-24 hours, depending on the sealant (written on the tube), acrylic may be drawn into the seam - this is if the cracks are large. Go through all these places a second time using the same method.

After the second layer has dried, if there are any roughness or unevenness, they can be smoothed out with fine-grain sandpaper, folded in half. In general, it is better to carefully level it while it is still wet, otherwise you may scratch the plastic.

That's it, the plastic slopes are installed. After the final polymerization of the foam, the bevels must be puttied, leveling with the surface of the walls. After this, you can remove the protective blue film. As a result, the window will look something like this.

When installing these plastic slopes, sandwich panels were used. These are two layers of plastic, between which there is a layer of foamed propylene foam. Using the same technology, you can make a window frame from inexpensive plastic window sills or white PVC wall panels.

The most unreliable material is panels: even wall panels are pressed through quite easily, and if the front layer of plastic is thin (cheap), then the jumpers are visible in the light. This is not the case with sandwich panels and plastic window sills. And it takes a lot of effort to push through, and there are no jumpers even for clearance.

We install plastic slopes with a starting profile

The installation of plastic slopes using this technology begins with the preparation of the window opening. We cut off the foam evenly, remove everything that does not adhere well, clean off the dust, and if necessary, go over the opening with a primer that improves adhesion.

A wooden block is attached along the perimeter of the opening, but already near the frame. Choose the thickness depending on the distance: it should almost fit the frame. One side of the block must be worked with a plane, making an inclination. The angle of inclination of this face is equal to the installation angle of the slope. You can saw it off, but it’s more difficult to make it straight unless you have a circular saw with an adjustable angle.

We screw the treated block to the walls around the perimeter of the opening. The mounting method depends on the wall material. If the wall is brick, you can try using self-tapping screws; in a concrete wall, you need to install dowels.

You buy a starting profile in the store, install it with the long side to the block, and fasten it. It is more convenient and faster to fix it to the bar with staples from a construction stapler; if you don’t have one, you can use small nails or self-tapping screws with flat heads.

When choosing a starting profile, choose a dense one. It’s more expensive, but you only need three meters per window, maybe a little more. A dense profile will hold the plastic well, a soft one will bend and the appearance will be ugly. One more point - when installing the profile, press it as tightly as possible to the frame so that there are either no gaps at all or they are minimal.

At the top, when joining vertical and horizontal profiles, you need to be especially careful and cut them exactly at an angle of 45°. If there are small gaps, they can be sealed with acrylic.

Using this technology, it is more convenient to start installing reservoir slopes from the sidewalls. Insert the panel into the fixed starting profile. It is also better to take them from expensive and dense ones, with a thick layer of plastic. If you install cheap ones (ceiling), then the front wall is thin, and in bright light the jumpers will be visible. In addition, such plastic can be pressed even with your finger.

The width of the plastic panel should be larger than the slope. If the width of one is not enough, two are joined. But then at the junction you will need an additional vertical strip to which the first strip will be attached.

The panel inserted into the profile is usually longer than the opening. Holding it with your hand, mark the line of the opening. After removing, cut along the marked line.

We install the panel again, move it a little away from the wall and fill it with foam, trying to fill it without gaps, but without excess. To make this happen, we start from the far bottom corner - draw from bottom to top near the nailed bar. By the time we reached the top, the foam below had expanded a little.

Draw a line with foam again, but closer to the edge. The closer to the outer edge, the less foam is required - after all, the panel is installed under a slope, so make the paths thinner. Having reached the middle, make a snake on the rest of the surface and press the panel the way it should stand.

Align and check. Secure to the wall with masking tape. The second part and then the upper part are installed in the same way. It can also be cut out using a paper template, and the edges can be adjusted to a perfect (or almost) match using sandpaper.

Having installed all parts of the slope and secured with masking tape, leave until complete polymerization. Then, in order not to putty the gaps between the slope and the wall, a white plastic corner is glued onto liquid nails.

The main task is to cut exactly in the corners. It is easy to glue: apply a thin strip of glue to both shelves of the corner, press it, moving your hand along it, hold it for a couple of minutes. This is how they are installed around the entire perimeter, then, before the glue dries, they are also glued with masking tape and left.

After a day, we remove the tape, the plastic slopes are ready.

If there are gaps somewhere, they are sealed with acrylic, as described above. Don't use silicone. In the light it quickly turns yellow. In a year or two your windows will look terrible. Look for white acrylic sealant and mask it with it.

Source: stroychik.ru/okna/okonnye-otkosy-iz-plastika

A newly installed window, no matter whether it is plastic or wooden, has an unfinished appearance. And even after installing the window sill, almost nothing will change. And in order for your window to acquire an aesthetic appearance, it is necessary to install slopes.

Today, plastic slopes for windows are popular. Slopes are part of the window opening on the side and top of the window. After replacing a window unit or installing a new one, finishing the slopes is an obligatory stage of work, along with installing a window sill.

This is like the final touch to installing the window and giving it a noble, light and bright look. Slopes can be plastered, plasterboard, or plastic.

Types of slopes

Plastered slope - a rough layer of mortar (cement-sand or gypsum) is applied to the surface; after drying, a finishing layer is applied and painted.
Slope made of plasterboard - the surface is covered with plasterboard, primed, puttied and painted or covered with wallpaper.
Plastic slopes - the window opening is covered with plastic panels.

Plastic slope for windows can be of two types

Hollow panels that have stiffening ribs inside;
Sandwich panels - two plastic panels connected to each other by foamed polystyrene.

Advantages of plastic slopes

aesthetic and finished look;
installation of plastic slopes is an almost clean and quick procedure;
long service life - slopes are made of the same material as plastic windows so that both windows and slopes have the same service life;
steam- and moisture-proof - plastic slopes can be washed without worrying that water will damage them;
ease of maintenance - they can only be wiped clean from dust, and the plastered slope has to be painted periodically;
unlike plastered ones, plastic slopes do not crack;
ideal for plastic windows, resulting in a monolithic structure.

Of course, it is not without its drawbacks. Plastic window slopes are often scratched, and the same applies to plastic window sills. But if you treat them with care and care, the slopes will last a very long time.

As for the myth about the dangers of plastic products, as our beloved Shurik said, “And nowadays it’s easier to get poisoned with sprat from a jar.” PVC slopes are not much more harmful than varnish or paint. Plastic slopes have good thermal insulation, unlike plastered ones.

They have an air layer (plastic panels) or a layer of polyurethane foam (sandwich panel), and due to installation, PVC slopes can receive additional thermal insulation. If plastic slopes are installed on polyurethane foam, in this case the free space under the panel is filled, resulting in improved thermal insulation and protection against fungus.

They can also be installed using PVC-based glue. Liquid PVC glue helps to make an almost monolithic structure of slopes and windows.

Finishing window slopes with hollow plastic panels will cost less, but it has its drawbacks - a thin layer of thermal protection. A slope made of sandwich panels is a more preferable option in this regard. They are more durable, warmer and can be used to finish wide slopes - up to 1.5 meters.

The disadvantage of such slopes is the high price. Finishing window slopes is not an easy process; if you take on this work yourself, without experience, you can ruin everything. And installation will cost you twice as much. Therefore, if you do not have confidence in your own abilities, it is best to turn to professionals.

The price of plastic slopes depends on the height and width of the product.

Laminated slopes (with color coating) will cost more than regular ones. For example, the price for a plastic slope made of a sandwich panel 150 mm wide will be around 150 rubles per linear meter, colored “sandwiches” - 1,200 rubles m/p, and the cost of panels 600 - 800 mm wide: 600 and 3,000 rubles, respectively .

The price for installing plastic slopes can be 400 - 500 rubles per linear meter, depending on the width.

If you still think that plastering window slopes is more profitable than sheathing them with plastic, remember the advantages of PVC slopes. Plastic window slopes will not turn yellow over time, will not crack and do not require periodic painting.

Source: proevrookna.ru/otkosy-na-okna/plastikovye-otkosy-na-okna.html

How to make window slopes with your own hands from plastic

A variety of modern building materials allows you to quickly and efficiently carry out any work related to both the construction of structures and the finishing and repair of finished real estate properties.

Today, more and more people prefer metal-plastic structures (windows, balconies, terraces) due to their high technical and economic characteristics and due to their impeccable appearance. In addition, such designs significantly improve the performance of the walls of the house.

List of preparatory works

Measuring, installing and adjusting plastic windows is carried out by specialized teams, which is the key to the correct implementation of all technological measures and entitles the customer to warranty service. But such operations as installing slopes of plastic windows, if desired, can be performed on your own.

Slopes come in various types, and may differ in color, shape, and materials from which they are made. The most common materials used for the production of slopes are the following:

drywall;
plastic, MDF, sandwich panel;
cement mortar;
tree.

Also, a significant advantage of such slopes is their low cost, durability, high speed of installation work (3-4 hours), ease of maintenance, and the ability to choose any color segment.

So, after the metal-plastic window has been installed and at least 36 hours have passed (the period of complete hardening of the polyurethane foam), you can install the window slopes.

First you need to decide on the list of necessary materials and tools required for such work. Firstly, it is advisable to purchase plastic, and it is best to give preference to high-quality and durable products.

The initial cost savings when purchasing a cheap product may result in additional costs associated with repairing damaged items.

The thickness of the plastic should not be less than 8 millimeters, and the lengths of the panels should be equal to the specified dimensions of the opening in height and width. Accordingly, the depth of the slope should be no greater than the width of the plastic panel.

Secondly, you will need the following building materials: starting strip, F-shaped profile, polyurethane foam, cement mortar, silicone, small screws (bugs), tape, paper clips, insulation.

The tools you need to have are a hammer, a drill with a bit for self-tapping screws, a screwdriver, a gun for silicone and polyurethane foam, a trowel, a spatula, a tape measure, and rags.
When all the necessary attributes have been prepared, you can begin the procedure of finishing the slopes of plastic windows.

Manufacturing technology for plastic slopes

The first step is to remove the shipping tape from the profile of the metal-plastic window and seal the cracks formed on the street side with cement mortar. This procedure allows you to seal the external assembly seam and hide the foam from direct sunlight, which has a destructive effect on this material.

In principle, any mixture for external work can be used as a mortar, be it putty or a special cement-based mixture. The external slopes of the windows can subsequently be coated with any dye. After this, you can begin interior work.

A starting strip is taken and cut to the dimensions of the window (height, width, height), and then drilled using self-tapping screws to the profile around the perimeter. This strip will be the base for the plastic panel. Then you need to prepare the panels for the slopes directly.

This is done as follows. First, the top panel is made; for this, plastic is cut to the size of the upper part of the opening and installed in the grooves of the starting strip, and then two side panels are made in the same way.

The entire installation is best done using a plumb line or building level. The resulting frame must be made in such a way that the following conditions are met:

between the plastic and the base of the opening there was a gap of at least 20 millimeters (for filling with foam);
the angle of rotation of the side elements of the slope was the same for the left and right sides (measured using a square applied to the window profile in the upper and lower parts on the right and left);
if the elements of plastic panels protrude excessively above the plane of the opening, then it is recommended to adjust their dimensions using a mounting knife;
In the places where the panels join (in all corners), it is advisable to mount scraps of the starting profile, which will cover the unevenness of the cuts.

The next step is the production of edgings from an F-shaped profile. As with plastic, this process must begin with the top element.

The joining points of the F-shaped profile must be cut at 45 degrees to each other. A very serious stage in the manufacture of plastic slopes is the foaming of the resulting voids.

The difficulty is not to overdo it with this process, so that the foam does not open the slopes when it hardens. To do this, it is advisable to foam the area around the perimeter of the window at the very base and lay the foam as bridges between the plastic and the old slope.

Another layer of foam is laid along the angle of the slope, and prepared F-shaped profiles are installed in the resulting space, and their fixation is best done using tape.

When the foam hardens (15-20 minutes), the structure becomes rigid and quite stable. The final step is to coat the cracks with a special sealant or silicone.

To ensure that the process of installing plastic slopes does not cause great difficulties for the contractor, during construction operations it is advisable to adhere to the following recommendations:

Use PVC panels of good quality, in color that matches the color shade of the window profile;
Before using the panels, remove (cut) the mounting tenon from them;
Trimming and cutting of PVC panels is done using a mounting knife or jigsaw;
To prevent deformation of the panels during the foam hardening process, you should use mounting foam with a low expansion coefficient, and also ensure mechanical fixation of the slope elements in a given position while the foam pre-sets (5 - 10 minutes);
If necessary, thermal insulation materials can be laid in the technological gaps between the back part of the PVC panels and the base base of the opening (before the foaming process);
To quickly remove traces of tape, it is best to use a cotton swab soaked in acetone;

After making the slope, you should ensure that the part of the opening under the window sill is plastered.
Everything is ready and your slopes will delight you for decades. That is, it became clear that plastic slopes for windows can be made with their own hands by almost any person with the slightest knowledge of the construction industry.