Currently drying oil application decreased significantly, perhaps due to the appearance on the construction market, a large number of funds with a new composition. Although there are still consumers who have not abandoned the use of drying oil in repair and construction work.
Now three types of drying oil are produced: natural, combined and oxol.
natural drying oil
Natural drying oil consists of: 97% vegetable (linseed) oil, 3% desiccant. It is an opaque thick liquid, dark brown in color, has a slight odor. It is mainly used for dilution of paints and impregnation of wooden surfaces. For work indoors, natural drying oil is ideal, it is practically odorless, easy to use, does not emit toxins. For outdoor work, the use of natural drying oil is not beneficial.
Drying oil oksol
The purpose of oxoli is to work indoors, it can process wooden and plastered surfaces, it improves the adhesion of paints and fillers. For outdoor work, do not forget that the oxol is intended for temporary preservation of the material; varnish, paint or enamel should be applied on top. Sunflower oil-based oxol can be a good alternative to the buyer; it is also used when working indoors.
Composite drying oil
Composite drying oil: its composition varies to some extent, but mostly these are synthetic substitutes, or rather, oil refining substances. Therefore, it is less costly. The difference between composite drying oil and natural and oxol in the external factor. It is liquid and lighter, sometimes has a reddish tint. A pungent smell and a long drying time also distinguishes composite drying oil from all the others. It is not used to work indoors, this drying oil is very toxic and harmful. In addition, even after drying, composite drying oil continues to smell for many more years. It has not found application in the paint and varnish industry, since the resulting coating is of poor quality.
We study the label
For processing and impregnation of wooden surfaces, all types of drying oil are used. The resistance of drying oil to weathering, loses to other paints and varnishes. In the end, it must be said that when purchasing drying oil, you need to be very careful. Pay attention to packaging and drying oil color. Examine the label, which should contain all information about the manufacturer of this product, the number of GOST or TU. Read about the composition of the product, instructions for its use. Check the availability of a certificate of conformity and a hygiene certificate. The first is issued for natural drying oil and oxol, the next for composite drying oil. The degree of drying oil quality can be determined by its homogeneous composition, it must be without mechanical additives and without sediment. The weaker the smell, the better.
In this article, you will learn what natural linen drying oil is and why and how to use it correctly! The use of wood as a building material has become widespread in various fields of construction.
This material is safe and environmentally friendly. But when used in construction, it requires serious processing.
When choosing a tree for finishing a frame house, it will be important to maintain its environmental friendliness during. This can be done using a special protective coating. Today, a variety of film-forming materials are presented on the construction market, but we recommend focusing on drying oil for wood. Since most drying oil mixtures consist of natural oils, and not harmful chemical additives.
In the old days, drying oil was called boiled butter. To date, the technology for the production of natural drying oils is practically no different from the ancient methods of production. There are various types of this film former, the properties and performance of which are very different.
Oil drying oils
For all manufacturers of this material, the production technology is generally the same - vegetable oil is subjected to heat treatment and, after a certain filtration, it is mixed with desiccants. Desiccants are special metal compounds that accelerate the process of polymerization of the oil film. Strontium, cobalt, lithium, lead, iron and manganese - the names of these metals already raise doubts about the safety of the compounds produced.
Therefore, when choosing this composition, be sure to look for all the information on the label, which particular desiccant was used - cobalt desiccant can be considered safe. According to the technical requirements and standards of GOST, this desiccant should be from 3 to 5%. With an increase in this figure, this can lead to accelerated polymerization of drying oil, and even after coating and drying, this process does not stop, and this may lead to darkening and cracking of the coating in the future. Therefore, at present, all specialists use oils without additives and impurities of desiccants.
If desired, you can purchase formulations with a minimum content of desiccants. And such a composition will perfectly protect against, and dampness. Standard drying oils with desiccant harden in a day, and in hot and windy weather, the process can be reduced to 12 hours. Oil compositions that do not have desiccant additives harden within 5 days. And if you decide to dissolve the oil paint with this composition, its drying time will also increase.
With such a long polymerization process, the oil component penetrates deep into the wood fibers, and in the future the wood repels moisture better and resists various fungi and mold.
When mixed with desiccant additives, the oils do not penetrate as deeply. The film that forms on wood can crack or peel off over time.
The rate of natural polymerization of vegetable oils will depend not only on the rate of production, but also on the amount of polyunsaturated fatty acid glycerides.
The highest content of glyceride in linseed and hemp oil, about 80%. Sunflower oil, which is used for cheap drying oils, contains only 30% glycerides, and even in the presence of desiccants, it dries several times slower. Castor oil does not thicken over time and does not harden, while olive oil is practically not subject to the hardening process.
According to the relevant GOST, natural drying oil should contain 97% vegetable oil, and only 3% impurities.
Although many manufacturers are not uncommon
violate this rule, seeking to increase the rate of solidification. You can easily determine the percentage of impurities when buying drying oil, if the solution, according to the manufacturer, hardens within 24 hours, then in this composition the amount of driers exceeds 3%. And from the point of view of safety, this solution will be more harmful than linseed drying oil, which hardens over a similar period.
All vegetable oils and paint based on them undergo a process of languishing at elevated temperatures during the production process, heating occurs at about 300C, and exposure is about 12 hours.
Further, the technology may vary, drying oil after heat treatment without special air blowing is called standard. And the drying oil that has passed the blowing process is called oxidized or oxidized. Oil drying oil natural has a sweet aroma of vegetable oil, it is usually light brown or dark brown in color, and as a rule, it dries for a long time.
Not natural ingredients
The closest to natural drying oil is considered to be combined compositions. They contain a third of the solvent or white spirit. These impurities greatly reduce the cost of production, and such a product dries at a faster rate.
The use of solvent-based drying oil is the ideal solution, it is fast, reliable and there is no sharp smell.
When vegetable oil is diluted with a large amount of impurities, oxol is obtained. Drying oil oxol is the ratio of natural oil (55%), and solvents and desiccants (45%).
The drying process is much faster due to the presence of a large amount of solvent in the composition.
This linseed oil is ideal for outdoor work.
But for internal work it is not recommended to use it, because. due to the presence of a solvent in the drying oil, the solution has a sharp and unpleasant odor, which persists for a long time even after the layer has dried.
Among the broad masses of drying oil, oxol is quite common because of its low cost. Basically, this composition is used to dilute oil paints and enamels, because. the composition itself will not be able to qualitatively protect the wooden surface. When choosing oxoli, pay attention to more expensive formulations based on linseed oil, because. they will create a strong elastic film on the surface of the wood, and this drying oil will dry much faster.
There is also an alkyd drying oil- this is a film-forming special composition, the main component of which is alkyd resin, and various modified solvents and.
This drying oil is the most acceptable in terms of price and quality.
All alkyd compounds calmly tolerate temperature changes, exposure to external precipitation, and are not very susceptible to ultraviolet radiation.
Drying oil dries for almost a day, after the complete hardening of the layer, it is necessary to additionally apply two layers of varnish or paint to the wood.
Composite drying oil occupies the last place among the created coating, as well as its properties and characteristics. In general, it is rather difficult to call this product drying oil - it is rather a petroleum product that has similar functions, for example, for diluting enamel or paint. There is not even a GOST for the production of these compositions. Composite drying oil dries much longer, and it is practically not absorbed into the surface of the tree. This material is used to cover temporary structures or to dilute the enamel.
Drying oil consumption depends on the method of cutting wood and is 1 liter per 5-6 m? sawn and 8-9 m? planed wood.
Natural drying oil has a dark brown color and a specific sweet aroma of vegetable oil. If the drying oil has a sharp smell, then this is no longer a natural product, but a combined or oxol. Natural drying oil should not have any sedimentary formations, lumps and various spots. When buying, you can ask the seller for a special certificate of conformity.
With drying oil combined, you need to be even more careful. These compounds are toxic, so high-quality drying oils are always accompanied by a quality certificate.
Different shades in the main composition of the drying oil may indicate the presence of a residue of oils (fuza), and composite drying oils should not have any color at all.
The presence of a fuse indicates the duration of drying drying oil. If osprey (refined products) is also present in this composition, then drying oil will never dry at all. The presence of such impurities produces a sharp unpleasant odor.
It must always be remembered that all brands and compositions of drying oil are fire hazardous. Their use and storage must be done away from fire and heat. In rooms where drying oil dries, it is not recommended to use and smoke. And do not forget to buy a fire extinguisher and various means for your safety before starting construction work.
Drying oil is a substance that, when applied to the surface of wood or metal, forms a protective film. Drying oil is produced on the basis of natural oils. The technology provides for the filtration of the oily component and its heat treatment, as well as the addition of a desiccant, a substance that accelerates the drying process.
With the advent of a huge variety of paints and varnishes on the market, natural drying oil has not lost its popularity, since it does not contain chemical solvents and is an environmentally friendly product. It is part of oil paints, used for the manufacture of primers, paste putties, oil-resin-based varnishes.
Along with the natural product, synthetic and semi-natural material options have appeared, each of them has its own characteristics, so drying oil covers a fairly wide range of solutions that are used to treat wooden, metal and plastered surfaces.
What is drying oil: classification and properties
All drying oils that are produced by industry are divided into several main types:
- natural;
- semi-natural;
- synthetic;
- combined;
- alkyd.
The oldest and most time-tested drying oils are natural options produced on the basis of linseed, tung, hemp and other oils. Cobalt, lead, manganese and other components are used as additives to speed up drying. According to current standards, the percentage of oil and desiccant is 97 to 3.
According to the method of production, polymerized (standard) and oxidized natural drying oil are distinguished. The first is produced using heat treatment technology without blowing, the second method involves the process of long-term oil languishing at high temperature conditions (300 degrees) with blowing.
Oxol belongs to the semi-natural type of material. According to GOST, this drying oil contains 55% vegetable oil (most often linseed), 5% desiccant, the rest is a solvent. Basically, oxol is treated with surfaces and structural elements indoors and used for outdoor work in order to improve adhesion during further painting and puttying.
The combined drying oil differs from the oxol in the ratio of components; this product contains about 30% of the solvent. The material is obtained by polymerization and removal of moisture from drying oils capable of forming a strong infusible film. Drying oil combined brand K-3 GOST can be used for the production of pasty thick oil paints.
Composite versions of drying oil are produced on the basis of synthetic substances obtained as a result of oil refining, therefore they are distinguished by a sharp, persistent odor, which is present for a long time after drying. Since the material is toxic and harmful, it is not used for interior work.
Another type of drying oil is made up of a mixture that includes alkyd resin as a base, solvents, modified versions of oils and auxiliary components - driers.
The use of drying oil for wood
Drying oil is one of the popular and traditional materials for wood processing. It allows you to preserve the beauty of the textural pattern of wood, its energy. Under the influence of factors such as heat and oxygen, the vegetable oil that is part of the drying oil applied to the wood surface polymerizes as it dries. At the same time, part of the substance impregnates the wood, penetrating into its porous structure, while the other forms a thin protective film on the surface. This explains what drying oil is and why it is needed. Thus, natural drying oil is used:
- for priming the surface of various elements, pre-treatment before painting, increasing adhesion;
- processing of wooden elements in order to extend their service life, restoration of furniture;
- as a finish for wooden surfaces of walls, floors inside the house and further care for them.
Wood treated with a natural composition breathes and flavors the air, so lovers of eco-friendly materials, absolutely safe for the environment and human health, choose this drying oil. The material is part of oil paints, mixtures intended for priming and filling wood, and serves to dilute them to the desired consistency.
How long does natural drying oil applied to a wooden surface dry? It all depends on the ambient temperature and the vegetable oils used in the composition of the material. If we focus on the average temperature regime of 20 - 22 degrees, then it will take about a day to completely dry the solution, which is based on linseed and hemp oil. Impregnation with a component of sunflower raw materials dries longer.
When treating the surface of wooden elements, you should wear rubber gloves, but if you have not done this, then the question arises of how to wash the drying oil from your hands. It is best to use organic solvents.
Drying oil based on natural vegetable oils is inferior in terms of strength of the protective layer, depth of penetration, durability to combined and semi-natural impregnations. Therefore, oxol is often chosen for interior and exterior finishing work. The best variety is considered to be a product in which linseed oil is used. Such a semi-natural drying oil creates, after complete drying, an elastic and sufficiently strong moisture-resistant film.
How to dilute drying oil
Mixtures where oils are present tend to thicken over time. In this form, drying oil cannot be used, it must be diluted. How? It depends on the type of oil. A natural product is generally not recommended to be bred, but many neglect such advice. In this case, turpentine or white spirit is considered the best option. The same diluents are suitable for semi-natural formulations. Other types of drying oil are usually diluted with a solvent, which is a component of their composition.
Be careful: there are fakes
Today you can hear from people who have covered window frames, plywood and other wooden objects with drying oil that it does not dry for a long time, they ask what to do in this case? Experts say that if the material does not dry out within the period declared by the manufacturer, then this is a poor-quality product, most likely an oil composition sold under the guise of drying oil. A high-quality material applied in a thin layer polymerizes by interacting with oxygen, so natural drying oil, according to technical specifications, dries out within a day at room temperature at an air humidity level of 60%. Non-drying drying oil, most likely a marriage or a fake. Therefore, it should be cleaned, washed off, resorting to a solvent that is used to remove stains of vegetable oils and resins. It is better to choose solvents of organic origin, such as white spirit, solvent. In any case, the substance is partially absorbed, so only the top layer can be removed.
In order not to get into trouble when buying material, it is advisable not only to familiarize yourself with the information about the manufacturer and clarify the composition of drying oil, but also to check for a certificate of conformity that is issued for natural drying oil and oxol. If you purchase a composite type of material, then require a hygiene certificate.
Drying oil or "boiled oil" (as it was called in ancient times) is a liquid composition that forms a film, which is formed as a result of the processing of vegetable oils (by oxidation or prolonged heat treatment) or fatty alkyd resins, also called desiccants. Drying oil is used as a protective impregnation for a variety of surfaces, as a primer before painting, as a base for various types of paint, and even acts as a coating for interior decor.
Based on the components, drying oil is classified into the following types:
- natural;
- semi-natural;
- synthetic.
The most widespread at the moment are the following types: natural, oxol drying oil and combined. In addition, alkyd, and even composite ones are often used.
According to GOST, the product in question must consist of at least 97% natural vegetable oil (drying or semi-drying, as well as mixtures thereof, mainly flax oil, occasionally sunflower, soybean, hemp oil).
During production, oils are subjected to prolonged exposure to high temperatures (at least 300 ° C) for 12 hours, the next step is the use of air purging.
As a result, we get an oily, opaque, thick liquid consistency of rich brown, and sometimes greenish color with a slight smell of the base oil.
Drying oil based on flax oil looks like a light-colored liquid, transparent and oily.
Its main purpose is to perform the following tasks:
- priming of various surfaces: wood, metal or previously plastered;
- production and obtaining the required consistency of light-colored thick paint, putty, grease paste;
- as a light-colored paint composition used indoors and outdoors for painting metal structures, window and door openings, flooring.
For complete drying at room temperature, it will take no more than a day.
Drying oil from hemp oil is dark in appearance and due to this it is mainly in demand, as well as drying oil from linseed oil, but when dark tones are required. Dries similarly for no more than a day.
Drying oil from sunflower oil dries much worse and it will take much more time than a day to dry completely. In addition, the film turns out, although quite elastic, but loses to the drying oils discussed above. according to indicators such as:
- hardness;
- strength;
- water resistance.
Table 1. Indicators of oil drying oils.
| Name of indicator | Value for drying oil | Test method | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| natural | oxol | combined | |||
| linen | hemp | ||||
| 400 | 1600 | 800 | 800 | ||
| 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | According to GOST 5481 | |
| 26-32 | 26-32 | 18-25 | 20-60 | According to GOST 8420 | |
| 6 | 7 | 8 | 10 | According to GOST 5476 | |
| Complete | Complete | Complete | Complete | According to GOST 5472 | |
| 24 | 24 | 24 | 24 | According to GOST 19007 | |
| 7 Mass fraction of non-volatile substances, % | - | - | 54,5-55,5 | 70±2 | According to GOST 17537 and 9.9 of this standard |
| - | - | 32 | 32 | GOST 9287 | |
| 9 Density at a temperature of (20 ± 2) ° С, g / cm 3 | 0,936-0,950 | 0,930-0,940 | - | - | According to GOST 18995.1 |
| 10 Iodine number, mg of iodine per 100 g, not less than | 155 | 150 | - | - | According to GOST 5475, section 2 |
| 11 Mass fraction of phosphorus-containing substances in terms of P 2 O 5,%, not more than | 0,026 | 0,026 | - | - | According to GOST 7824, section 2 and 9.13 of this standard |
| 12 Mass fraction of unsaponifiable substances, %, no more | 1 | 1 | - | According to GOST 5479 | |
| 13 Mass fraction of ash, %, no more | 0,3 | 0,3 | - | - | According to GOST 5474 and 9.15 of this standard |
| 14 Resin acids | Absence | - | - | By 9.16 | |
| Note - It is allowed to use drying oil of the oxol type with other indicators of the mass fraction of non-volatile substances and conditional viscosity, provided that this brand of drying oil complies with all the requirements of the standard for this group of drying oils. | |||||
Representatives of this species also received their second name "oxol", technologically they are also made from oils, but subjected to oxidation, with the addition of solvents and desiccants. In this case, in percentage terms, the oil occupies 55%, the solvent (the most commonly used white spirit) is at least 40%. Due to this composition, the liquid has a rather unpleasant and pungent odor, which can last for some time even after drying.
At cost, oxol is much more cost-effective than natural, but at the same time it has practically no differences in basic properties and is almost identical in appearance.
Oxol made from flax oil is most valued - the film of such a product is distinguished by its hardness, elasticity, water resistance and, what is remarkable, the greatest durability.
For even greater reduction in cost, they are also produced from sunflower oil, but its film is much lower in terms of characteristics than from flax oil.
Drying oil combined
This type of drying oil is almost identical to semi-natural, except for the percentage: the percentage of oil is about 70% and 30% remains on the solvent. They are obtained by polymerization and dehydration of drying and semi-drying oils. The main direction for the use of this product is the production of thick paints. Industrially produce grades K-2, 3, 4, 5. The time of complete drying does not exceed a day.
Table 2. Indicators of combined drying oils.
| Name of indicator | Meaning | Test method |
|---|---|---|
| 1 Sediment, % (by volume), no more | 1 | According to GOST 5481, section 2 |
| 2 Nominal viscosity according to a VZ-246 type viscometer with a nozzle diameter of 4 mm at a temperature of (20 ± 0.5) °C, s | 15-50 | According to GOST 8420 |
| 3 Acid number, mg KOH, not more than | 10 | According to GOST 5476, GOST 23955, method A |
| 4 Transparency after settling for 24 hours at a temperature of (20 ± 2) °C | Complete | According to GOST 5472 |
| 5 Drying time up to degree 3 at a temperature of (20 ± 2) °С, hours, no more | 24 | According to GOST 19007 |
| 6 Mass fraction of non-volatile substances, %, not less than | 50 | According to GOST 17537 |
| 7 Flash point in a closed crucible, °C, not less than | 32 | According to GOST 9287 |
Drying oils alkyd
The thermochemical processing of the semi-drying and non-drying oil gives the resulting alkyd drying oil a high drying capacity. In addition, in terms of the totality of properties, it has higher values for hardness, durability, water resistance and weather resistance than oxol drying oils. Due to this, this type is considered as more promising, since it allows to reduce the cost of vegetable oil for production. The only drawback is thickening during storage, which is due to the fact that free fatty acids, of which a large number react with mineral pigments and insoluble metal soaps appear. This does not allow using the product for the manufacture of thick paint, but does not prevent mass use for diluting them to the required consistency.
This type is currently considered the cheapest and this is what made it quite widely used. After all, the main component is not natural oil or resin, but their substitutes, most often various products obtained during oil refining. The composition of such drying oils may be different, since they are produced not on the basis of GOST, but according to technical conditions. In their appearance, they also differ significantly - the color is often light, the transparency is much higher than that of oil-based formulations. Also, the disadvantages include a very pungent odor and a longer drying process. The most common representatives are slate drying oil and, of course, ethinol.
Drying oil shale looks like a darkish liquid, as noted, there is a pungent odor and is a derivative of the process of oxidation of shale oil with further dissolution in xylene. Dries a little more than a day. It has good weather resistance. The main direction of use is dark tinting, dilution of paints to the required consistency, which are used mainly for outdoor work and sometimes indoors for painting surfaces of their metal, wood and covered with plaster. It is forbidden to use this drying oil for application on floor materials and objects used in everyday life.
Drying oil ethinol, on the contrary, looks like a transparent liquid of a lightish tone, with the same specific smell and is made from waste obtained in the manufacture of chloroprene rubber.
The film dries quickly after application, is glossy, very hard, resistant to alkali and acid, but, unfortunately, with poor weather resistance.
Often this species is used as an additive to other drying oils, but not more than 15%. The main direction was the manufacture of paints and primers for metal on its basis.
Table 3. Indicators of synthetic drying oils.
| Name of indicator | Meaning | Test method |
|---|---|---|
| 1 Color according to the iodometric scale, mg I 2 /100 cm 3, not darker | 700 | According to GOST 19266 and 9.3 of this standard |
| 2 Sediment, % (by volume), no more | 1 | According to GOST 5481, section 2 |
| 3 Relative viscosity according to a VZ-246 type viscometer with a nozzle diameter of 4 mm at a temperature of (20 ± 0.5) °C, s | 18-25 | According to GOST 8420 |
| 4 Acid number, mg KOH, no more | 12 | According to GOST 5476 |
| 5 Transparency after settling for 24 hours at a temperature of (20 ± 2) °C | Complete | According to GOST 5472 |
| 6 Drying time up to degree 3 at a temperature of (20 ± 2) °С, h, no more | 24 | According to GOST 19007 |
| 7 Mass fraction of non-volatile substances, %, not less than | 50 | According to GOST 17537 |
| 8 Flash point in a closed crucible, °C, not less than | 32 | According to GOST 9287 |
Drying oil application
Work procedure
- Before starting work, it is required to clean and degrease the surface to be treated.
- If the composition on semi-natural drying oil is used in the work, then it is recommended to apply it only on a dry surface.
- When using drying oil and paint and varnish products based on it, it is recommended to apply with a brush, roller or paint sprayer.
The average operating expense when using semi-natural drying oil is from 150 to 200g. per cubic meter. As already noted, the duration of drying during natural drying will take no more than a day.
Drying oil storage
Based on the fact that the drying oil contains oil and solvents, it belongs to explosive and flammable materials, therefore, in the room where work is performed, it is required to provide natural ventilation or forced ventilation equipment in an explosion-proof design. In case of contact with human skin surfaces, it is necessary to wipe off and rinse well with soapy water. When storing drying oil, it is required to ensure that the container is tightly closed and protected from moisture and sunlight, and is far from fires and electrical appliances. When thickening, it is allowed to dilute the drying oil with any solvent available to you suitable for oil paints in a ratio of 1:10.
The choice of drying oil
Before you buy drying oil, you need to carefully consider what is in the container. First, you should determine by color whether it corresponds to the declared type of product. In addition, you should carefully read the description of the components and check whether it complies with GOST if you purchase semi-natural or natural drying oil. They will have a certificate of conformity, and for a composite one - only hygienic. And in general, you should be careful with the use of the latter, since it is toxic and it is important to note that it should not contain oil residues (the so-called fuse) and osprey (oil refining residues), otherwise the drying process will become endless. And finally, it should be noted - carefully inspect the liquid for uniformity, sediment or mechanical particles should not be present.
As noted earlier, the main purpose of these products is to treat various surfaces, they are also indispensable in the production of paints. If you stop at surface treatment, then drying oil for wood is great. It is used both for impregnation of products and walls in general. But for external work, it is recommended to apply drying oil only for preparation before further painting. And it would be more optimal to use oxol or alkyd drying oil. Natural is better suited for interior work (due to environmental friendliness and lack of smell) and to obtain the required consistency of paints.
In the manufacture of paints, almost all types are involved. So, natural becomes the basis for thickened, and alkyd is an excellent base for oil. Only composite is not used due to low quality.
related materials
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Fashion for natural materials in construction, furniture production, interior decoration has already become a tradition. And it is wood that continues to be in trend due to its environmental and aesthetic properties. But, unlike artificial materials, wooden coatings and structures can deteriorate under the influence of adverse environmental factors, such as moisture, direct sunlight.
Now many people want to protect themselves from unnecessary chemistry. This also applies to wood products. Drying oil in this regard is a unique material! The origin of the name "natural drying oil" speaks for itself. Up to 95% of the composition may contain natural components of flax seeds, hemp, rapeseed, which is a very high indicator in the production of paints and varnishes.
The remaining 5% are synthetic compounds, but their specific gravity is so small that there is practically no negative effect on the human body. The lower the percentage of synthetic chemistry in drying oil, the longer the wooden thing will last you.
When choosing, pay attention to the composition and choose a product with the maximum percentage of natural ingredients, this is the key to enhancing the properties of drying oil in wood protection.
Main purpose
Given the characteristics of the material, it should be noted why drying oil is needed:
- basis for painting external structures;
- impregnation of internal structures (wall and ceiling cladding, flooring).
Related article: How to protect wood from fungus and mold
After processing, it is necessary to give time to the coating so that it saturates the inner layers of the wood fabric. Drying time may vary, but you need to wait until complete drying. Further, the wooden coating, at the request of the user, is left in this form, or any oil paint is applied.
The interaction of drying oil and oil paint will only strengthen the protective layer of wood. And also, the more drying oil is used, the less paint consumption, isn't it a plus?
You should not sit on the fence floors if you have just painted it, in the hope that the impregnation is entirely natural products, and it will be absorbed in 5 seconds. Wood processing indoors is as important as outdoors. Temperature changes, air humidity - all this does not affect the tree in the best way.
You can process with drying oil the lining and floors. However, do not forget that the composition must be absorbed until completely dry, therefore it is strictly forbidden to enter the treated premises.
Remember that the main difference between internal processing and external processing is the lack of fresh air. If the sun and wind act as a natural “dryer” for outdoor areas, then maximum fresh air supply will be required for indoor processing. This is necessary so that in the shortest possible time the surface in the room dries well, and the unpleasant odors that even natural products have are weathered.
In addition to wood, drying oil and oxol are great for painting and preparing metals (at the priming stage). And drying oil can be added to plaster - a kind of universal helper for the builder.
The choice of drying oil
How to choose drying oil correctly? You can not be guided only by the rule that the higher the level of naturalness, the better. There are the following types of drying oil:
- Natural - the higher the percentage of natural substances in the composition, the higher the cost of the material and its quality. If a product with a 45% vegetable oil composition can be used for exterior painting, then drying oil with an oil content of 70% or more can be used for interior work. In any case, the impregnated surface will be protected.
Related article: Ways to age a tree with your own hands
- Combined- as close as possible to the source material. In its composition, as a rule, a natural base and white spirit (solvent) are mixed, which occupies 1/3 of the drying oil structure. Such a complex is used for external use - the effect of the solvent on the body is practically not noticeable, and drying is faster.
- Drying oil "Oksol" - the middle class of the product. The impregnation is made from 55% natural oils and is used both indoors and outdoors. Oksol is an excellent assistant in polishing small parts.
- Composite - the cheapest option for impregnation. Almost 100% consists of synthetic substances, has a sharp pronounced smell. It is strictly forbidden to use drying oil for the floor and other wooden surfaces in residential premises, no matter how ventilated they may be.
Having oil in its composition, drying oil will be an excellent base for paint. And this is not about applying a layer of paint on a dried layer of drying oil. Oil-based paint - combines the properties of both substances and does not require varnish.
MA-25 - this is the name of the paint for the treatment of external surfaces, which is made from combined drying oil.
On the video: how to cook natural drying oil yourself.
Application method
In order to properly treat a wooden surface, you do not need to complete painters' courses, but you still need to follow the basic principles of working with painting:
- Before using drying oil or oxol, the wooden surface is cleaned of dust, grease and dried thoroughly. Application to wet material is extremely inefficient.
- Too thick a solution, if desired, can be diluted with a solvent or nefras. Paints are used only after thorough mixing. No matter how fresh the jar is, stirring gives the linseed oil structure oxygenation and reabsorption of the released oils.
- To cover the tree with drying oil, either a roller or brushes are used. Small details are painted with small brushes.
- Drying oil for wood and oxol with a maximum natural composition dry for about 24 hours. Since you need to use several layers for greater effect, it is important to understand that it will take several days to carefully work out the detail. Synthetic drying oil dries out in much less time.