The most important component of all fishing gear is the hook. Most anglers prefer to make their own hooks for fishing in cases where the fisherman himself does not have it or does not have the opportunity and time to buy it.
The quality of these homemade hooks is sometimes not inferior to factory products. The material for their manufacture is often any material at hand: pins, bicycle knitting needles, hairpins, a ring from a bunch of keys, and even nails. And the manufacturing process itself does not take much time.
Heat treatment of steel
The main material in the production of fishing hooks is steel. To make a heat treatment, the steel must be heated, and then quickly cooled in water or oil. This process is called "hardening". During this treatment, the properties of the steel will change.
Before heat treatment, raw steel is easily subjected to various deformations (it can be sawn, forged), but after processing it acquires sufficient hardness, but at the same time remains brittle. Given this circumstance, it must be treated with abrasive materials.
The brittleness of the steel after hardening will help reduce its tempering. This process is based on the method of heating already hardened steel to low temperatures with further cooling in oil or in the open air. The result of such a procedure will be to obtain the steel of its original properties, that is, it will again become raw.
And finally, annealing tempered steel consists in heating it to a temperature slightly lower than it was during hardening and cooling in air. As a result of this procedure, the steel will receive its original properties, that is, it will again become raw.
The time difference between these procedures cannot be more than 24 hours. The temperature used when tempering steel is always different (from 150 to 500 C) and depends on the type of product produced from it.
When making hooks with your own hands, the material used can be sewing needles of any size or spring wire.
When carrying out heat treatment of hooks made independently, the following rules should be considered:
- When quenched using water at room temperature, the hardness of the steel is greater, than with oil.
- When the temperature of the steel reaches 330C, it will be viscous and suitable for making only a soft hook. To make a hard hook, hardening should be done in water, and a much lower temperature should be used for tempering.
The heat treatment of steel is always carried out in a muffle furnace using a thermometer.
But it is clear that there are no such furnaces at home and heat treatment can be carried out using a gas stove.
Sewing needles are placed on a flat piece of steel and heated over a stove flame.
By the color of the heating of the blank, it is easy to determine its temperature:
- dark brown color - temperature from 530 to 580C;
- red-brown color - heating up to 650С;
- cherry - up to 720 C;
- crimson - heating up to 770 C;
- bright red - up to 870 C;
- red - up to 900 C;
- orange - up to 1050 C;
- dark yellow - heating up to 1150 C;
- yellow-white - up to 1300 C;
- white - heating up to above 1350 C.
It is impossible to anneal the spring like a needle due to the fact that it has a different design. It is annealed using a solution of salts: sodium chloride, sodium fluoride, aluminum fluoride, sodium chloride, calcium fluoride, sodium carbonate, etc.
When the material used to make the hooks is ready, you can start making them. After the hook is ready, it should also be hardened.
The main types of offset
A hook that has a Z-shape with a forearm bend in the upper part is called offset. This hook was first used in the USA in the early 20th century. Since that time, it has been constantly improved with a view to its use in combination with other equipment.
What is the motivation for anglers when using an offset hook in fishing?
The big advantage of using them is:
- The hook allows you to use it for catching fish in dense thickets.
- It allows you to securely attach any bait, while preventing it from slipping off the hook. This is useful when fishing with a heavy load over long distances.
- Its shape allows it to easily plunge into the side of the prey's mouth.
- Allows you to firmly hold the prey when playing.
Offset hooks are divided into two types:
- Worm.
- Bigheads.
These two species are very different from each other. Their differences lie in the dissimilarity of the design and the type of bait used.
Steep-faced offsets are used to attach massive silicone lures to them.
Moreover, the size of the hook itself is selected so that there is a margin for the fact that during the bite the bait would not slide down and at the same time the sting would be exposed.
If a fisherman uses silicone worms as bait, and they have a thin body, then it will be rational to use worm offsets.
When using offset baits in fishing, most fishermen adhere to the rule that the width of the hook in the hook should always be about 2 times the width of the lure itself.
The invention and the beginning of the mass use of these hooks gave impetus to the creation of new types of lures and equipment.
Making miniature offset hooks
Unfortunately, miniature offset presses are very rarely available in specialized stores, and if they are, their quality is often at a low level.
During fishing in the summer, when the temperature is high, it is not possible to catch fish in reservoirs with a spinning rod.
In such heat, she prefers to hide in dense thickets of aquatic vegetation or in places with flooded snags. It is in such places that you can hope for a good catch. For such fishing, miniature offset hooks are very useful.
Anglers make these hooks from ordinary steel fishing hooks with a long shank. If the steel from which the hook is made has been overheated, then the hook may break when bent.
While catching fish, the main load from its weight lies on the underwear, and the step that has an inflection will not be able to unbend.
Miniature offset hooks are perfectly combined with different baits and types of fishing.
How to make a tee?
A tee hook is quite often used by anglers for spinning fishing, when catching large fish using live bait, when equipping spinners and wobblers with them. It can be made independently, having single hooks.
To make a tee hook with your own hands, you need to prepare the following material:
- A small piece of rubber.
- Thin wire.
- Single hooks-3pcs.
- Solder.
The technology for making a fishing tee is quite simple:
- Make a hole in a piece of rubber with an awl or a nail.
- Completely place single hooks in it so that they do not hang out and sit tightly.
- Around the ears of the hooks, on their reverse side, a copper wire is wound, which is then soldered.
- After soldering is completed, carefully remove the hooks from the rubber.
The triple hook is ready and can be used for its intended purpose.
How to make a fishing hook out of a tin can?
Hooks, which, according to their characteristics, will not be inferior to those purchased, can be easily made at home with your own hands. The material can be an ordinary tin can.
To make a hook out of a can, you need a minimum of time and material, or rather, you need to take the tongue from the lid, with which the can is opened. This tongue is made in the form of a figure eight. You should cut off the lower part of the circle of eight and sharpen it.
Hook of invisibility
As an accessible material for making a hook, an ordinary invisible hairpin is suitable on its own. It can be used when catching large predatory fish.
During the manufacture, the following tools should be prepared:
- Pliers.
- Flat cutters
- File.
- A block of wood.
Its manufacturing process is very simple. At the invisible one, both ends of it should be bent, measuring the required length of the hook, cut off everything superfluous. Next, the ends of the invisible are sharpened with a file. As you can see, using a minimum of time and material, a strong hook will be ready.
DIY fishing hook sharpening
Many anglers, when purchasing hooks, are faced with the fact that they have poor sharpening. Before assembling the rod, these hooks must be sharpened. Often, an abrasive bar and a file are used for self-sharpening. But they can only sharpen the forearm of the hook itself, and it will not work to remove the burrs.
In addition, the frequent use of a needle file and an abrasive whetstone for sharpening leads to a quick abrasion of the hook.
Trying to avoid such problems, resourceful anglers have come up with a new procedure for sharpening hooks.
Step by step, this procedure goes like this:
- Abrasive bars are crushed with a hammer to a powder state.
- The epoxy resin is heated and the prepared powder is gradually added to it.
- When the resin begins to thicken, any hardener is added to it.
- The thick mass obtained in this way is applied to the needle file.
- The smeared file is rolled out on a clean and hard surface.
The file prepared in this way can be used for sharpening hooks after two days. In order to sharpen a hook with such a needle file with high quality and without burrs, you need to insert the file into an electric drill, and hold the hook with pliers.
For quick sharpening at home, the following methods are also suitable:
- Hooks can be dipped in a boiling solution of table salt for 5 minutes, so that they become dull more slowly and do not rust. To prepare such a solution, you need one tablespoon of salt and 50g of water.
- Observing personal safety precautions, you can also use a 30% nitric acid solution purchased at a pharmacy to improve sharpening. This acid corrodes the top layer of the metal and leaves a sharp edge.
- Many fishermen use diamond-coated needle files for sharpening, but only the tip of the hook must be sharpened from the inside.
- Fine-grained sandpaper is also great for sharpening.
Using the experience of many anglers, it is safe to say that hand-made fishing hooks in all their qualities will not be inferior to purchased ones and will take a minimum of time to make them. Therefore, they can be safely taken and used for fishing.
Page 1
The marking of the tee, the type of which corresponds to the types of column 2, but the angle of inclination of the process is different from the angles indicated in Table. 6 (p.
The marking of tees and crosses is very time-consuming, therefore, in the manufacture of normalized fittings, combined life-size templates are used for reaming individual parts. Templates are a fixture made of sheet steel, on which the main points of the development of a tee or cross are marked for different cases of combination of diameters. To do this, holes and recesses are cut out on the template for punching points on the marked sheet. In addition, pattern curves are cut out on the template, allowing you to draw individual contour lines when building a scan. Thus, depending on the size of the root and branches, points and curves are indicated by putting numbers indicating the diameter of the hole.
Tee marking includes two operations: branch marking and trunk marking.
The marking of equal tees and tees with a branch pipe having a smaller diameter than the pipe is carried out at installation without a template. Equally straight tees are marked by geometrically constructing the points of intersection of the branch pipe with the pipe. These points are interconnected with a strip of cardboard applied to the pipe. When marking multi-way tees, the branch pipe is installed on the pipe at the connection point. Pressing a scriber or chalk pencil tightly against the nozzle, lines are drawn on the pipe for cutting holes in the pipe. According to the markup, a hole is cut in the pipe into which the pipe is inserted. With chalk or a scriber, a cut line of its end is applied on the surface of the pipe.
For marking tees and crosses, combined templates developed by the Promventilation trust are used. These templates (Fig. 169, c) are factory-made.
How to crash into a plastic pipe: features of work + analysis of all the important nuances
In special tables placed in the instructions and normals issued by the trust Promventilation, the dimensions of the elements of tees and crosses with different central angles are indicated.
When marking round tees and crosses with a diameter of up to 900 mm using combined templates, compliance with the geometric dimensions established by the normal is ensured, while maintaining a constant central angle of the tee and crosses.
These methods of marking branched tees are applicable to all angles of rotation.
When compiling tables for marking tees with offset axes, we focused on the size z, counted from the vertical tangent to the circumference of the trunk to the generatrix of the process, given that it is this size that is guided during the installation of pipelines.
Each individual template is designed to mark tees or crosses with the same root diameter for various combinations of stem and branch diameters.
Usually, the greatest difficulties are encountered when marking tees and oblique transitions, in connection with which we have given Table. 6 - 8 to determine the lengths of the ordinates of the development of both processes and holes in the trunks.
Pages: 1 2 3
Construction - tee
Page 1
The design of a straight straight tee (Fig. 153, a) includes a trunk of constant cross section and a branch (transition 2) with a reduced cross section.
The following dimensions determine the design of a tee with a circular cross section: lower base diameter D, stem diameter Dlt branch diameter D8, height H, angle a between the axes of the duct and branch.
The main dimensions that determine the design of the tees are the diameter of the lower base D, the diameter of the trunk D, the diameter of the branch DZ, the height of the tee and the angle a between the axis of the trunk and the branch.
What are the main dimensions that determine the design of tees and crosses.
The design of a straight straight tee (Fig. 151, a) includes a trunk of constant cross section - a straight section / and a branch (transition 2) with a reduced cross section. The design of the tee shown in Fig. 151, c, is made in such a way that the section of the trunk is changed using the connecting transition 2, the large side of which is equal to the side of the trunk. The cross (Fig. 151, e) consists of two transitions 2 and a straight section 1 of constant cross section. On fig. 151, e shows the design of the branch.
For the manufacture of fittings in order to unify them, uniform mounting dimensions are adopted, combined in special tables depending on the diameter at the root.
Do-it-yourself chimney pipe
The design of normalized tees and crosses was left rack. VNIIGS carried out work to determine the local resistances of normalized tees and crosses, which made it possible to conclude that the changed angles and design had little effect on the aerodynamic resistance of the systems.
The largest section of the tee is called the root. Depending on the purpose and design of the tee, the branch can be located relative to the trunk at different angles.
In the nodes of inter-unit communications, bends, transitions, tees are used to change the direction or diameter of the pipeline, as well as branches from the main line. The Chelyabinsk branch of SPKB Proektneftegazspetsmontazh has developed a design of tees manufactured using stamp-welded technology.
Pages: 1 2
how to make a pipe tee
When bending, it is necessary to ensure that the workpiece retains its shape after the load is removed, so the bending stresses must exceed the elastic limit.
The deformation of the workpiece in this case will be plastic, while the inner layers of the workpiece are compressed and shortened, and the outer ones are stretched and elongated (Figure 8.3.1).
Figure 8.3.1 Scheme of the bending process
At the same time, the middle layer of blanks - neutral line- does not experience any compression or tension; its length before and after bending remains constant.
Therefore, determining the dimensions of profile blanks is reduced to counting the length of straight sections (shelves), the length of shortening of the blank within the rounding, or the length of the neutral line within the rounding.
When bending parts at a right angle without rounding on the inside, the allowance for bending is taken from 0.5 to 0.8 of the material thickness. Adding the length of the inner sides of the square or bracket, we obtain the length of the unfolded workpiece.
Tee for pipes: purpose and varieties
Table 8.3.1 Determining the dimensions of the workpiece when bending with rounding (radius)
| Bending type | Sketch | Workpiece length, mm |
| Single angle |  |
L=l1+l2+ln= l1+l2+π(r+xS)/2 |
| two-angle |  |
L=l1+l2+l3+ π(r+xS)= =l1+l2+l3+2lH |
|
Four corner |
|
L=l1+2l2+l3+ l4+2lH1+2lH2= =l1+2l2+l3+l4+π(r1+x1S)+ +π(r2+x2S) |
| semicircular (U-shaped) |
|
L=2l+2lH=2l+ π(r+xS) |
| End (sealing) | 
|
L \u003d 1.5πρ + 2R - S; ρ= R - yS |
|
Notes:
|
||
Example 1 Figure 8.3.2, a, b shows, respectively, a square and a bracket with right internal corners.
Figure 8.3.2 Examples of billet length calculation
Square dimensions: a = 30mm; L=70mm; t = 6 mm.
The length of the workpiece development l \u003d a + L + 0.5t \u003d 30 + 70 + 3 \u003d 103 mm.
Staple dimensions: a = 70mm; b = 80mm; c = 60mm; t = 4 mm.
Workpiece development length l \u003d a + b + c + 0.5t \u003d 70 + 80 + 60 + 2 \u003d 212mm.
We break the square according to the drawing into sections. Substituting their numerical values
(a = 50 mm; b = 30 mm: t = 6 mm; r = 4 mm) into the formula
L = a + b + (r + t/2)π/2,
we get L \u003d 50+ 30+ (4 + 6/2) π / 2 \u003d 50 + 30 + 7 * 1.57 \u003d 91 mm.
We break the bracket into sections, as shown in the drawing.
Substituting their numerical values (a = 80mm; h = 65mm; c = 120mm; t = 5mm; r = 2.5mm) into the formula
L=a + h+c+ π(r+t/2),
we get L \u003d 80 + 65 + 120 + 3.14 (2.5 + 5/2) \u003d 265 + 15.75 \u003d 280.75 mm.
Bending this strip into a circle, we get a cylindrical ring, and the outer part of the metal will stretch somewhat, and the inner one will shrink.
Therefore, the length of the workpiece will correspond to the length of the middle line of the circle, passing in the middle between the outer and inner circles of the ring.
Workpiece length L = πD. Knowing the diameter of the middle circle of the ring and substituting its numerical value into the formula, we find the length of the workpiece: L = 3.14 * 108 = = 339.12 mm.
As a result of preliminary calculations, it is possible to manufacture a part of the established dimensions.
Whatever pipeline you run, most often you have to use tie-ins into it for more comfortable use. In this case, a tee (fitting) made of polymer or metal helps, which is able to correctly arrange the junction of its branches. The article will be devoted to this particular element, without which it is difficult to imagine the supply or removal of water.
Types of tees
It is better to classify products according to the type of material from which they are made. Even an alternative option - the installation method, in overwhelming cases is based on this.
You can also combine the two sorting methods to have an idea of the entire assortment of these connectors:
| metal | These include the following fittings:
Most often, tees are made using casting, for which they use:
Very rarely it can be welded elements. We can say that the main advantage of metal products is their high strength. |
| Plastic | All products, including collet and welded fittings, are made of PVC and polyethylene. But, separately, it is necessary to consider tees made of PVC sewer pipes made of plastic, installed in a socket or on glue. The main advantage is complete inertness to the environment and to pumped substances, which allows them to operate up to half a century. |
| Composite | These include connecting elements for pipes consisting of low-density polyethylene, equipped with bronze or steel bushings. Such fittings help to connect pipelines made of metal and polymers. The tee has a thread on the side of the metal sleeve, and a crimp or welded installation on the side of the polymer. This makes it possible to include instrumentation, such as pressure gauges, in the system. |
Additional way
There is also another popular classification method that takes into account the working dimensions of the tee:
- throughput;
- threaded;
- average diameter.
But, it depends on the diameters of the pipelines and the relevant standards. The topic is quite extensive, so it will not be covered in our article.
Mounting
Below we consider the general recommendations of the process when installing fittings on pressure or non-pressure pipelines, which have a certain set of rules. Otherwise, the result of your work will be deplorable not only for you, but also for the neighbors down the riser.
- When installing a tee with adhesive, choose the position of the pipeline relative to the fitting within the first two seconds after they are aligned. Do not move or rotate the knot after that, and if you are not sure of your abilities, use the guides.
Tip: when connecting a polymer tee to a polymer pipe with your own hands, mark the depth of its insertion on the latter.
Otherwise, you may block fluid access to the node.
- When assembling a metal pipeline, pre-prepare the material for spurs and threaded ends. It is not recommended in this case to save fum-tape, the price of which is negligible, and always use a lock nut, winding several turns of the seal between it and the end of the fitting before tightening it.
- Install detachable connections, including push-in and threaded connections, in well-accessible places.
Tip: when installing plastic or metal pipe tees in hard-to-reach areas, use welding or press fittings (as a last resort).
Sewerage
Thanks to modern materials, the installation of waste systems has become much more convenient and easier. Tees for sewer pipes made of plastic simplify the task of manufacturing any scheme-project in private houses of different heights as much as possible. In this case, you do not need to use sophisticated equipment or special tools.
In this case, 3 types of tees are used that perform their special functions:
- To connect vertical risers to horizontal pipelines, options with angles of 87 ° or 90 ° are used.
- When creating horizontal branches, products with an angle of 45 ° are used.
- A coupling with an additional hole for repair work is called a revision. The third hole is twisted with a special cover, which gives access to the pipeline.
At home, you can make fishhooks that will not be inferior in quality to factory hooks. In order to make such a hook, you only need to know the technology of heat treatment of steel. Manufacturers use carbon-tool and spring steels.
Each steel has its own marking and can be classified.
As an example, U8A steel can be indicated, and its marking is deciphered:
- At– carbon steel;
- 8 - the number 8 means that such steel contains 0.8% carbon;
- BUT- the category under which this steel falls according to the concentration of harmful substances. Category A means that such steel is safe.
Also, steel may have a designation like this - Art.70. this marking means that such steel contains 0.70% carbon.
Heat treatment of steel
In order for steel to be subjected to heat treatment, it is necessary to heat it, then quickly cool it. If raw steel can be deformed in various ways, then with hardened steel everything is much more complicated. Although the resulting material is hard, it is very brittle. In this regard, the processing of hardened steel will be possible only with abrasive materials.
It should be pointed out that a technology was invented, which is popularly called "Vacation". Its essence is to heat the hardened steel to a low temperature, and then cool it in a cool room or oil.
With such additional processing, the following changes occur in hardened steel:
- The brittleness of the metal is reduced;
- Slightly reduced hardness;
- Cooling down is much faster.
The final stage of preparing the desired steel will be to heat it to a temperature that should be less than those listed above.
Cooling of such steel should be carried out in the open air. Through this step, the steel acquires the properties of raw steel.
Practice shows:
- Steel in which the carbon concentration is less than 0.3% does not need to be hardened.
- Each steel grade has its own hardening temperature.
- If the hardening temperature is exceeded, the steel will lose all its properties. Further use of such steel is impossible.
It should be indicated that after each process, the break should not exceed a day.
The main types of offset
There are two main types of offset hooks:
- Bigheads. Designed for large silicone lures;
- Worm.
These two hooks are completely different. Their design is different, although the category is the same. To choose the right hook, you should take into account the fact that the bait should slide and slightly open the tip of the hook.
It should be pointed out that in order to ensure the best hooking, it is necessary to choose a hook hook twice as large as the bait itself.
If the fisherman uses special silicone worms, then it is best to use hooks that are designed for this purpose.
Making miniature offset hooks
In the summer, it is almost impossible to catch fish with a regular spinning rod. This is explained by the fact that in summer the fish usually gather in places with an overgrown bottom or where there are snags. This is where the offset hook comes in handy. Such a hook has a bent shank, which reduces the likelihood of an unexpected hook.
Offset can be made from a regular hook. Any hook with a long shank will do for this. But you should choose such hooks that are made of high-quality steel. Such a hook, when bent, will break if it is released over the flame.
In order to prevent the entire hook design from being released, it is best to take it with pliers. We take for the part that does not need a "vacation" and hold it over the flame, for example, of a gas burner. It should be pointed out that the shank of the hook will never change its properties. As a result, we get a strong hook, the strength of which is very high.
How to make a tee?
The use of tee hooks is very common among experienced anglers who hunt large predatory fish. You can easily make such a hook yourself, you just need to have a single hook.
In order to make such a hook with your own hands, you will need:
- A small piece of very dense rubber;
- Single hooks;
- Thin wire;
- Soldering.
The manufacturing process is quite simple and primitive. A hole is made in a piece of rubber with an awl or a small nail. Three single hooks are placed in such a hole. The forearm of the hooks should be completely tucked into the rubber so that they fit snugly and do not hang out.
Then, from the other end, a copper wire is wrapped around the ear of the hooks, which will then be solderable. After that, the hook must be carefully removed and used for its intended purpose.
When fishing is carried out with the help of spinning, the fisherman sometimes needs to change such tees on spinners. However, it should be borne in mind that each such hook on the spinner is designed for a certain length.
Therefore, if you have such a problem and need to lengthen the tee, then this can be done as follows. It is necessary to wrap a copper wire around the ear, then heat it with solder and stretch it to the required length.
How to make a fishing hook out of a tin can?
In order to make a hook from a tin can, we need a tongue on the lid, with which such a can is opened. From such a tongue you get an almost professional hook. The tongue is designed in the form of a figure eight. It is necessary to make a small cut of the lower circle and sharpen it with a nail file.
The result is an excellent sharp hook that can be made at home in 3 minutes.
Hook of invisibility
If you decide to make a hook with your own hands, then a hook from an invisible hairpin is perfect for this. This hairpin can be bought at any store. And from a bag of such hairpins, you get more than 15 fishing clips, with which you can catch large predatory fish.
In order to make such a hook, you will need the following set of tools:
- Pliers;
- round nose pliers;
- flat cutters;
- File;
- Wooden block.
To make such a hook, you just need to bend both ends of the hairpin. Then measure the required length and cut off the excess. And sharpen the ends with a file.
As it turned out, making such a hook is very easy, and its strength will allow you to catch large fish.
DIY fishing hook sharpening
Most hooks are produced by the manufacturer in an insufficiently sharpened condition. Before assembling the rod, it is necessary to sharpen such hooks. At home, most of the time, hooks are sharpened with a needle file or an abrasive bar.
However, with the help of such devices, only the shank of the hook can be sharpened, and it is almost impossible to remove the burrs. It should be noted that repeated sharpening of the hook will lead to the fact that such a hook will be erased and it will become impossible to fish with such a hook.
However, such problems can be avoided if you approach this issue correctly.
We will indicate the procedure for the correct sharpening of hooks and describe the implementation of each stage:
- You need to buy yourself two abrasive blocks, blue and red. These two bars need to be crushed into a coarse powder, a hammer will help us with this.
- Warm up the epoxy. In the process of heating, add the previously obtained powder.
- When the epoxy begins to thicken, add any hardener.
- It is necessary to prepare a file in advance. Then we apply the resulting mass to the stalk of the needle file.
- The smeared needle file must be rolled out on a hard surface. To avoid dust or debris, the surface is best sprinkled with the remaining abrasive dust.
It should be noted that finally such a file can be used after two days. Before that, it is forbidden to touch the needle file. When two days have passed, we get a unique device for sharpening all types of hooks.
What is the best way to sharpen a hook?
It is necessary to insert the resulting needle file into an electric drill, and take the hook with pliers. In this case, you will never have burrs.
In order to sharpen large hooks, use a blue abrasive, and for small ones, use a red one.
Thus, we have considered all the important points that relate to making hooks at home. These hooks are in no way inferior to factory hooks. So feel free to take them with you on a fishing trip. Successful bite!