Currant is found in almost every suburban area. This berry culture is perhaps the most common. But not all gardeners can boast of a good harvest. This shrub, although unpretentious, bears abundant fruit only with appropriate care. Transplantation is included in the list of necessary procedures.
A plant may need to change its place of residence for several reasons. An adult currant bush is transplanted in the following cases:
an overgrown bush interferes with neighboring plants, or nearby trees shade currants;
the bush has been growing in this place for a long time, the soil is clearly depleted and toxic substances have accumulated on the ground as a result of the vital activity of this crop;
there was a need to renew and rejuvenate the shrub, for example, if the bush is very old and a revision of the overgrown root system is required in order to remove dead and diseased parts, a healthy and young part is left for further cultivation;
you need to transplant the shoots formed near the bush;
a redevelopment of the territory is being carried out and another place is planned for the currant or it is necessary to transport the plant to another site;
there was a rise in groundwater and the soil became too damp, which is detrimental to currants.
Transplantation of an adult fruit-bearing shrub is carried out only in case of emergency, since this procedure is a strong stress for the plant.
Transplantation is a strong stress for the plant, sometimes the bush dies
Currant hardly survives the move and usually gets sick for a long time. Rare cases of death. Therefore, we must try to take into account the botanical species features and the annual vegetation cycle of the plant.
The currants are transplanted immediately after the snow melts in early spring or after the end of leaf fall in late autumn. The main condition is the dormant state of the bush, when the plant has not yet begun to grow and even the buds have not yet appeared, or at the end of the growing season, when the bush has already shed all the leaves and is preparing for winter.
The transplant time is determined by the climatic features of the regions.
A summer transplant is also allowed, but as a last resort.
Features of transplantation in different seasons
It is best to transplant a berry bush in the fall, but you can carry out this procedure at other times of the year.
Spring transplant of currant
Spring transplantation is started in early spring, after the ground has thawed and a constant temperature of about 0–1 ° C has been established. It is very important that the kidneys do not even swell yet. The period during which you can touch the plant is very small, but then the bush will have the opportunity to take root well. If it does not work out, then it is better to postpone the transplant until autumn or next year.
It is highly undesirable to transplant flowering currants. She will get sick and drop all the flowers.
Abundant watering after a spring transplant will make it easier for the bush to root.
It is necessary to dig up a bush with a lump, trying to shake off as little earth as possible from it, so that the risk of damage to the root system is minimized. After planting, the plant should be watered very abundantly with water heated in the sun or at room temperature. This provides the best conditions for the bush to take root. Harvest can be expected no earlier than next year, as the plant will throw all its strength into rooting.
Autumn transplant of currants
At the very end of autumn, when active growth ends, the movement of sap slows down and the plant loses leaves, you can start transplanting shrubs. Stress will least affect the plant during this period.
It is very important to choose the right time for the autumn transplant. The plant should have about 3 weeks to establish before hard frost, until the ambient temperature constantly drops below 0 °C. If this is done too early, then there is a chance that the plant will mix up the seasons and throw out the buds, which will inevitably freeze in winter. This will greatly weaken the bush and it will not be able to take root quickly. If this procedure is late, frosts will damage the root system that has not really taken root. A bush planted in time will have time to take root well before the first frosts and in the spring will begin to actively grow and develop. It will bloom and bear fruit.
We transplant currants after flying around the leaves
For the winter period, the currant must be covered so that it does not freeze out. To do this, the bush is covered with several buckets of humus or compost. If the autumn is warm and dry, then fresh plantings should be regularly watered.
In the middle lane, the approximate dates for the autumn transplant are at the end of October and the beginning of November. In the northern regions, this procedure is carried out 2-3 weeks earlier.
Is it possible to transplant currants in summer
In the summer, it is highly undesirable to start a currant transplant. But there are times when there is no other way. For example, when a plot is sold on which a varietal shrub grows, and you don’t want to leave it to new owners at all. Or it is not possible to cope with the disease and you have to relocate the shrub to an uninfected piece of land.
Adult bushes need to be dug out with the whole clod of earth. The larger the lump, the greater the chance of a successful completion of the operation, because then the roots will be less damaged. The plant will need very abundant watering, especially if the weather is dry and hot.
Seedlings in individual containers can be planted throughout the growing season
If we talk about seedlings with a closed root system, purchased in individual containers, then they can be planted during the entire growing season. After transplanting, it is necessary to thoroughly shed the soil with water and mulch with humus.
How to transplant an adult currant bush
First you need to decide on the landing site. Currant, although it is considered a rather unpretentious plant, it still has some requirements for a place of residence:
currant prefers well-lit sunny places;
does not like lowlands and areas with high humidity;
it is not advisable to plant bushes in places on the windward side;
this shrub prefers to grow freely, so it does not need to be planted along fences, fences, buildings and next to large trees (it is necessary to retreat at least one meter).
After the landing site is determined, it is necessary to dig up the site and remove weeds, stones, debris and old roots from the ground. It is better to do this in advance, about 10-20 days in advance.
The main stages of transplantation are as follows:
Pits for planting are dug at a distance of about a meter from each other. For large bushes, it is necessary to leave a larger distance.
The pits should be at a distance from each other
The diameter of the hole is about 0.5–0.6 m, the depth is 0.3–0.4 m. But it is better to be guided by the size of the root system of the transplanted plants.
The depth of the hole should correspond to the size of the root system of the bush
At the bottom of the pit, a drainage layer with a thickness of at least 7–8 cm is laid out, consisting of a mixture of crushed stone and sand.
Crushed stone with sand will perfectly cope with the role of drainage
We fertilize the extracted garden soil with humus, wood ash and complex fertilizers (phosphate, potash). Top dressing is made according to the instructions on the package based on the volume of soil.
When applying fertilizer to the hole, follow the instructions on the package.
The hole is filled with soil mixture by about two-thirds.
Two-thirds fill the hole with earth
Old branches are completely cut off from the bush. New shoots are shortened by half.
Before planting, old branches must be carefully cut.
The plant is carefully dug in and removed along with a clod from the ground. Do not pull on the branches, as you can damage them.
The bush must be removed very carefully, without pulling it by the branches.
The excavated bush and root system need to be examined for pests and their larvae. If there are pests, then it is necessary to treat the plant with special insecticidal solutions.
If the roots are affected by pests, then the bush must be treated with an insecticide.
Water is poured into the hole to form liquid mud.
We plant a bush in a liquid substance
The bush is immersed in the slurry and sprinkled with the remnants of the earth, which must be carefully compacted to prevent the formation of voids. The root neck deepens by 7–8 cm.
The earth around the roots of the bush must be carefully compacted so that there are no voids in the soil.
A layer of mulch is applied from foliage, humus, peat, needles, etc. to prevent the topsoil from drying out and for fertilization.
A layer of mulch will prevent the soil from drying out.
The plant must be watered abundantly for 3-4 days.
The first days it is necessary to water the transplanted bush abundantly.
It is forbidden to use fresh manure when planting currants, as this can cause a chemical burn of the roots of the plant.
It is not necessary to feed the plant additionally. All the nutrients needed for the first time have already been added to the planting hole. During the growing season, further care will consist of regular watering as needed.
Video: technology for transplanting shrubs, including currants
If you follow a number of simple rules, then the currant will thank you with a tasty and plentiful harvest. Its berries have a valuable set of vitamins and minerals that are very useful for the human body.
Not often, but it happens that the currant bush needs to be transplanted. This happens for various reasons. Consider how to properly transplant currants in the spring to a new place and how to care for it after that.
It is necessary to transplant a currant bush if:
- it grew strongly and began to interfere with neighboring plants;
- the bush does not grow well because the soil is depleted;
- it is shaded by closely standing tall trees;
- the plant is old and needs to be rejuvenated;
- you need to move the bush to a new place, because the soil on the site is swampy;
- currants are sick or affected by pests.
In any case, it is necessary to resort to transplantation as a last resort, since adult plants tolerate it worse than young ones.
Transplant dates
You can transplant an adult bush in spring, autumn and even summer. Thus, this can be done when it is convenient for the gardener, but, nevertheless, temperature and weather must be taken into account. They affect the degree of survival of the plant in a new place.
spring
Like young seedlings, in the spring, currant bushes should be replanted the sooner the better, but even before the start of sap flow and bud opening. In the Middle lane, this is approximately the 2nd half of March - the 1st half of April. If the buds are already blooming, the shrub will take root worse. After transplanting the currant in the first year, it most likely will not bear fruit, as it will have to grow new roots.
Summer
Without special need, currants are not transplanted in the summer. At this time, she has the lowest chances of rooting, since she spends all her strength on the growth of greenery and fruits, and high temperatures do not contribute to survival.
But if you can’t do without transplanting, for example, when the soil is contaminated, then this can be done in the summer. In order for the bush to take root better, it must be dug up with a large clod of earth and not expose the roots. You need to transplant immediately into a pre-prepared hole.
autumn
Autumn transplantation has a number of advantages and is therefore preferable. After the end of the growing season, sap flow stops, the plant tissues are saturated with nutrients, the roots adapt faster and give new shoots, so it is best to transplant currants in the fall.
The timing of the autumn transplant is after all the foliage has fallen from the bush, approximately in the 2nd half of September or in October. At the same time, it is necessary to have time before a steady cold snap: the bush must be given time to root, so it must be transplanted at least a month before the onset of frost. If this is done later, the plant may freeze out in extreme cold. When transplanting a currant bush in the fall to a new place, it will bear fruit in the next season.
Is there a difference between transplanting black and red currants
Different types of crops differ in their requirements for soil and growing conditions. Black currant is not as whimsical as red currant, it can be grown on any type of soil, in partial shade, in the northern part of the site. The red-fruited variety prefers sunny areas, sandy loamy soil, well-groomed, loose and fertile, always drained so that the roots do not rot. Planting holes for transplanting red currants should be larger and deeper than for black currants.
Preparatory stages
As for a young seedling, for an adult currant bush, you need to prepare the soil, dig planting holes. The transplanted bush itself also needs preparation.
Location selection
Currant grows well in an open, flat or slightly sloping place. It is undesirable to place it on large slopes and low-lying, swampy areas. It can be planted near fences or buildings, but not closer than 1.5-2 m from them. Should not be planted under tall trees. Legumes, cereals, green manure, potatoes, root crops should grow in the chosen place before the currant. Areas where gooseberries used to grow are not allowed.
Soil and planting hole preparation
The soil is prepared even before transplanting, at least a month before. Ideally, if the soil is prepared for spring transplantation in the fall. It is necessary to remove plant debris from it, dig it to a depth of at least a bayonet of a shovel, select the rhizomes of weeds. Fertilize: humus in the amount of 1-2 buckets per 1 sq. m and 0.5-1 kg of wood ash. With an acidic soil reaction, it must be limed, bringing the acidity to neutral.
The dimensions of the landing pit should be such that the entire root system of an adult bush can fit into it without problems, that is, approximately 0.5-0.6 m in diameter and 0.4-0.5 m deep.
Bush preparation
2-3 weeks before transplanting blackcurrants in the fall, it is necessary to prepare the bush: cut out all the old shoots, damaged ones, shorten the young branches. The height of each branch should be about 0.5 m. This must be done, since when the plant is dug up, some part of the roots will be lost and nutrition will deteriorate. Pruning on the day of transplantation should not be, as it is believed, this will become additional stress for the plant.
Transplant step by step guide
To transplant blackcurrant you need:
- Dig up a bush from its original place: at a distance of 0.4 m from its center, dig a groove around the circumference about 0.3 m deep. Take it by the base of the branches and pull it up. It is important to try to injure the roots as little as possible and dig up the plant with a large clod of earth.
- Examine the visible areas of the roots, cut off the damaged, drying.
- Move the bush to a new location. Sometimes it’s hard for one person to do this, so you have to work together.
- Pour the hole with water (at least 15 liters), you can add a little potassium permanganate to it. After soaking, place the bush in the center.
- Straighten the roots.
- Sprinkle the plant with earth 5 cm above the root neck. Make sure that voids do not form near the roots, for which the soil must be compacted.
- Dig a watering groove, mulch the soil around the plants with mulch from any available material used for this purpose.
The transfer process is complete.
Caring for a transplanted bush
After transplanting blackcurrants in the spring, it is time to take care of them. The bush needs watering and loosening the soil. Water the plant in the first 2 weeks often, until it takes root, at least 1-2 days later, especially if it is already warmer in the spring. Then the frequency of watering can be reduced by watering once a week.
After each irrigation, loosen the soil if mulch is not laid. The depth of loosening in areas located closer to the center of the bush should be less, on the periphery - more.
Top dressing in the first season in the summer is not required, fertilizers are applied only in the fall, in preparation for winter. Then the plant is insulated with mulch, coniferous branches, spreading them around with a layer of at least 15 cm, the shoots can be tied together, and in winter, after snow falls, throw it on a bush.
Any dacha is not complete without berry bushes. The most popular and useful of them, no doubt, is the currant. To get a good harvest every year, it needs proper care. The plant is unpretentious, does not require much attention and money. But there are circumstances that require it to be transplanted, mainly due to the wrong place, depleted soil, or redevelopment of the garden.
It is not so easy to transplant an adult currant bush. After all, the plant receives a lot of stress, as a result of which it can get sick or die. Therefore, the transplantation process must be carried out correctly, taking into account the biological characteristics and the annual cycle of the currant.
Features of currant
Blackcurrant belongs to perennial shrubs, reaching a height of about 3 m with a dozen branches of different ages. A distinctive feature is the absence of root buds. If the bush is planted under the very neck, then a short-lived, low-fruiting plant without lateral shoots and branches will turn out. It usually has up to five main branches with side shoots. Young branches originate from basal shoots. After two years, they begin to bear fruit.
The plant is resistant to low temperatures, but severe frost provokes the death of annual growths or buds, which reduces the future harvest. It is also harmed by low temperatures that fall during the formation of flowers.
Currant grows well in sunny areas, and the shade has a bad effect on the ripening of berries, provokes diseases and pests.
Water is also important for this crop. But because of its overabundance, the bush ages, slows down growth and dies. Abundant watering is recommended in hot weather or during the development of berries. Redcurrant is highly productive, useful for cardiovascular diseases, in the presence of rheumatism and stomach diseases. Proper care guarantees a constant harvest up to 25 years. The berries ripen in June or August, depending on the variety. It tolerates drought well, frost-resistant.
Why transplant currants
If everything is clear with young bushes purchased in the nursery, then why transplant blackcurrants that have been growing for many years on the site?
The main reasons for moving shrubs from one place to another are:
- transplanting currants in the fall in order to breed your favorite variety;
- to rejuvenate an old plant;
- save the bush from pests or diseases;
- if the currant falls under the shade due to new buildings, overgrown grapes or trees;
- for thinning currant bushes;
- to increase productivity due to severely depleted soil under the bush;
- when moving to another garden or summer cottage;
- the planned move of the bush upon reaching a certain age.
There are other reasons that provoke a transplant. However, summer residents are in no hurry to transplant berry bushes without a good reason.
Choosing a place to land
It does not matter when the currant is transplanted - in autumn or spring. The principle of transplantation is almost identical. This stage must be taken seriously, because good fruiting and how the culture will take root depend on it.
Red currants are best planted in the south or southwest. Since the berry loves heat, in such a place the soil warms up more efficiently, moisture does not stagnate in it.
Blackcurrant is mainly planted in the north or northeast. She does well in light shade. The sunny side will not hurt her either, as this variety is very unpretentious.
When the currant is transplanted
Views on when to transplant currants to another place diverge. In fact, this procedure can be performed at any time during the growing season, except for winter, even in August. It is believed that the bush tolerates the transplant less painfully during the dormant period, when the processes are slowed down and the juice does not run along the shoots. Therefore, the autumn or spring transplant wins. The climate is also worth considering.
For the northern regions, a spring transplant is preferable, as there is a high probability that the transplanted plant will not survive the big frosts.
It is quite possible to harvest seedlings in autumn for planting in spring. For a temperate climate, it will be ideal to transplant currants to a new place in the fall. And in the summer - only for serious reasons. To minimize trauma and reduce stress, the plant is dug up with enough soil and planted in a new hole with it. Then well watered.
What is the difference between seasonal transplants
In spring, cultures awaken. A successful transplant during this period depends on whether you have time to move it before it wakes up or not. But even if all the correct measures are taken, the bush will begin to produce crops only next year, since the plant will spend all its strength to adapt to new conditions. But you don’t have to worry whether the currant will survive the winter or not. An already rooted plant will quietly survive until next spring.
In autumn, the growth of all crops decreases, immunity weakens, they get ready for bed. But, nevertheless, shrubs are pretty good at transplanting at this time. Currants transplanted in the fall will give a harvest for the next season, and the summer resident only wins with this method, since he will not lose the harvest. But it is better to move the plant at least a month before frost, so that it has time to get stronger and put down new roots.
Spring planting mainly occurs at the beginning of March. At this time, the earth thaws, the sun warms the earth. It is not necessary to transplant in March. You need to look at the weather: if the soil temperature is already above zero degrees, feel free to transplant.
If, nevertheless, the transplant is scheduled for autumn, then it is better to do this business until October 15, until the frost hits. Until this time, you should not disturb the plant, because the high air temperature will provoke the growth of transplanted bushes. And if you delay planting by the month of November, then this is fraught with poor rooting of the plant.
Preparatory measures before transplantation
Not only the land, but also the currant itself needs to be prepared for moving to a new site.
To do this, a few weeks before the upcoming event, it is pruned. Only branches important for the development and growth are left. During the autumn transplant, pruning is done in the spring, before the buds swell. You can not cut the shrub and transplant it at the same time. This will prevent the plant from distributing forces to heal wounds and adapt roots, and will cause the bush to die prematurely.
- Currant is shortened to a height of up to half a meter. Old bushes are cut out completely, young ones - by one third.
- The plant is dug around about 25-40 cm deep, stepping back from the trunk 50-60 cm. It is taken by the bottom, pulled out towards itself. No need to stretch the branches when the bush does not stretch. In this case, it is better to dig even deeper.
- The extracted currant is subjected to a thorough examination. Bad roots (with rot, sores) are destroyed. Infected areas are cut off by the root, if otherwise they cannot be removed.
- The affected bush is disinfected by immersing the roots in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for a quarter of an hour. Currants are transported to a prepared place using films or tarpaulins.
Proper transplant
- A hill is formed in the hole from the prepared substrate, spilled with 15-25 liters of water. The liquid should soak into the ground. A humid environment leads to a strong shrinkage of the bush, which is fraught with subsequent improper development.
- Lower the bush into a hole, cover it with soil at a height of about 5-8 cm from the basal neck.
- Position it in the direction in the same direction as it was located in the former place, in order to exclude the curvature of the branches.
- When falling asleep, prevent the formation of empty spaces, which can cause rotting of the roots. Therefore, the bush should be shaken.
- Tamp the earth, form a watering hole. Pour water little by little, but not less than 25 liters, until it is completely absorbed.
- Sprinkle mulch on top. You can use peat, straw, dry leaves.
- Re-water the berry bush with 20 liters of water.
- For 14 days, if there is no precipitation, the plant is watered every two days. The volume of water for each bush is at least 25 liters.
Aftercare
After transplanting, currant care continues. The ground under it needs to be periodically loosened, maintaining the ideal state of water with air for good rooting.
Before the onset of winter:
- remove plant debris from the near-trunk circle;
- cover the trunk with spruce branches;
- spray the bush with a fungicide;
- branches are interconnected;
- shovel snow to the bush.
There is no single answer to the question of when to transplant currants to a new place; many decide to carry out this process in summer, autumn and spring. For the culture itself, there is no difference; it is equally painful to move to a new place.
If you change the habitat in the autumn, the plant will rest, sleep and begin to settle in the new place in the spring. A spring move will allow you to quickly get used to a new place, take root, throw away foliage and begin fruiting.
In any case, proper care will help speedy adaptation and improve the quality of vegetative processes.
Berry features
Blackcurrant is a perennial shrub, of small height up to 2.5 m. It consists of 10-20 branches that developed at different ages with large five-fingered leaves.
A characteristic feature of the culture is the absence of root buds. If planted under the root neck, a standard shrub is obtained, short-lived and not very fruitful.
The bush consists of five to six axial branches and many side branches. New branches develop from the root shoot. A year later, these shoots, considered biennial, will be covered with flowers and fruits will appear.
The culture is winter-hardy. In cold winters, annual growths and buds can freeze, which leads to a decrease in yield. In places protected from the wind, plants overwinter with less damage. But low temperatures are especially painful during the flowering period.
It's important to know: currant digging damages the root system very much, the plant becomes vulnerable to diseases, the fruits become small, the taste is lost. It is better not to dig, but to mulch or mow weeds, but do not use sharp objects.
The culture loves the light, in the shade the yield decreases. Bushes growing in the shade are most susceptible to diseases and biological pests.
The culture loves water, but its excess can lead to aging, the bush is covered with lichen, stops growing, dies. Watering in dry weather is especially important during the formation of berries (for the middle zone, the end of June-beginning of July) and during the period of fruit ripening (second half of August).
Transplanting in winter is good because the soil that has settled after snowmelt settles and compacts, which is useful for the root system. Shoots are planted in the ground with a slight slope, the roots are straightened and evenly covered with earth.
Special attention
Redcurrant - decoration of the garden plot, but not only. It bears fruit well, the berries are extremely useful for vascular diseases, rheumatism, and gastric disorders.
With proper care, fruiting lasts 20 years or more. Early and late varieties are known. Using the difference in fruiting time, you can enjoy the taste and benefits of berries all summer.
The culture is resistant to drought, endures frosts down to -40′, unpretentious to the soil. It is not afraid of transplanting, however, it is preferable to transfer redcurrant bushes to a new place in the fall. The root system quickly adapts to a new place, does not experience problems with survival.
When transferring to a new place, top dressing is required, as well as compliance with the general rules for all species. The difference between red and burgundy transplants is that the hole is made large, the root system is more sprawling and branched.
Advice: before placing a shrub in the ground, you need to dip its roots in a mixture of mullein and clay. This simple action will speed up and simplify survival.
It is better to have shrubs at a distance of one and a half meters from each other and other crops growing on the site. The optimal distance between rows is 3 m. The currant transplanted in autumn will please with a harvest next year.
The best time to transplant
The need to move shrubs can arise for several reasons:
- moving to another cottage;
- variety breeding;
- in order to get rid of developed soil diseases;
- release from the shadow of the developed crowns of fruit trees;
- planned renewal of culture;
- depletion or contamination of the soil.
There may be other reasons as well.
note: although everyone suffers from a transplant, a properly organized process will help to minimize the painful reaction of the culture.
Especially favorable time is the spring and autumn periods. Experts recommend regions with harsh climatic conditions to solve these problems in the spring.
Transplant in the spring
It should be remembered that the culture begins vegetative development early.
If transplanted after the start of sap flow, the plant will have a hard time, along with rooting, the process of growing branches and green mass will take place.
Spring activities are carried out after the final thawing of the soil when the temperature stabilizes to + 1 ° - + 5 ° С, this circumstance reduces the time for rooting to 3 weeks.
Good to know: adult bushes should be moved, preserving the root and the ground around it as much as possible.
It is necessary to have time so that the rooting process does not interfere with the process of budding and flowering. The plant will quickly grow with proper watering, cold soil should be moistened with water at room temperature.
Summer transplant
If necessary, you should dig a bush with a large amount of earth, trying not to damage the roots. Place in a basin or box and transport to a new place.
If it is not possible to land immediately, you need to make sure that the earth does not dry out, for this you can cover the root with the earth with a wet rag.
It is important: transplantation in summer is undesirable.
After planting, high-quality top dressing and soil mulching are required. It is better to place the bush at some distance from other plants.
Transplant in autumn
Autumn transplant of currants is less stress for the plant. Before the onset of the first frost, it will have time to adapt to a new place.
By autumn, enough nutrients have been accumulated, the downward flow of juices helps to heal wounds faster. The ideal time is the period from September 10 to 15, when the active growth of the roots is recorded.
At this time, it ends, folds and leaves fall, the plant begins to fall asleep. And all surgical interventions, as you know, are best done in a state of sleep.
Should know: the moved bush will not actively bear fruit next summer, but in any case, care must be taken to protect the roots from frost, cover with humus, compost, this will help rooting.
It turns out that, nevertheless, autumn events are preferable for currants. Spring or summer procedure is forced, unfavorable. The basis of the criterion is the state of the bush. He must either still sleep, or already sleep.
How to choose a new location
The right choice of location guarantees a good survival rate of the culture and successful fruiting in the future.
You should choose a place in advance. The best place for transplanting a currant bush is sunny, weed-free, even. Elevation threatens with a low level of groundwater, lowland - high.
For a black and green look, you need to choose the north and northeast direction, the cultures are not capricious, unpretentious, a little shade will not hurt.
Gardener's recommendation: it is better to remove the transplanted bush from other fruit and berry crops in order to rid the weakened plant of diseases. Currant loves soils with low acidity, loam.
Red, white and yellow currants require light and warmth. It is better to place them in the southern and southwestern parts of the site, so that the soil is properly warmed up by the sun and water does not stagnate.
It is good to plant in places where potatoes, beets, corn, beans, buckwheat grew before. You can not transplant where there is stagnation of cold air, humidity. Such conditions will provoke the development of root rot, fungus and other troubles.
How to transplant - detailed instructions
Preparations for transplantation should begin at least 2 weeks in advance:
- dig a plot 40 cm deep and 70 cm wide, clear of weeds, carefully select the roots. For tall bushes of a remontant type, the dimensions of the hole are 60-70 cm deep, 1.5 m wide. In principle, the size of the hole should correspond to the root system of the dug up plant;
- apply fertilizer. Fill the pit by a third with layers:
- manure;
- Earth;
- superphosphate 200-300 g (less for red currants);
- wood ash.
- pour two buckets of water and leave so that the necessary conditions are formed in the pit for root survival. Two weeks before planting, the layers will be saturated with moisture, the minerals will be absorbed by the soil, and the roots will not burn.
Take note: red currants need a deeper hole, first they lay out drainage from expanded clay, then the same layers.
Before transplanting, you need to prepare a bush. Since the volume of the roots of the excavated plant will decrease significantly, it is necessary to reduce the volume of the vegetative mass. Currants are cut without regret.
In order not to doubt, it is enough to remember how the rejuvenation process takes place. All branches are cut at the root, facilitating its development, and in a year they get a good harvest.
The branching zone is located at the root base, from here lateral shoots grow by 30-40 cm, where the fruits are formed. A similar zone is located on the upper segments of the branches, but here the berries are smaller. They are cut into thirds.
After pruning, a height of no more than 50 cm remains. Old branches, dead shoots, tops are also cut. Two weeks before the move, the plant needs to get used to it.
Pruning before transplanting
First, the branches are tied into a bundle, then they dig a hole around the center at a distance of 40-50 cm, to a depth of 35 cm. They deepen it, digging roots from all sides, sip a little, release them from the ground.
With a spade bayonet, the middle of the root system is lifted, the retaining processes are cut. It is better to put the excavated bush on a canvas of tarpaulin or other material in order to more conveniently transfer it to a new place.
Transplanting currants in the fall to a new place is usually in demand if redevelopment of the yard is planned. Another need is the depletion or contamination of the soil. The movement of an adult plant is accompanied by severe stress. If the technology is violated, the currant may not take root or freeze out in winter.
Is it possible to transplant currants in the fall
The younger the plant, the better results can be expected from transplanting currant bushes in autumn. Engraftment in a new place depends on the temperature of the soil. He shouldn't be frozen. It is important to extract the root from the ground to the maximum. A damaged root system reduces the likelihood of engraftment.
You can transplant any currant: red, black, white. The technology for each variety is the same, but due to varietal characteristics, there are nuances.
When is it better to transplant currants - in autumn or spring
It is theoretically possible to transplant young bushes to a previously planned new place from spring to autumn. Quite different results are often observed in practice. Almost 100% of the plant takes root in a new place, if the transplant is done while the culture is at rest: spring and autumn. It is allowed with an urgent need for a procedure in the summer. However, the guarantees of plant survival in a new place are reduced, and mistakes made will lead to the death of the bush.
Let's look at each period separately:
- Spring. It is better to transplant to a new place in the first and second decade of March, when the movement of juice has not yet become more active. The advantage of the method is the best survival rate of currants. The absence of frost will allow the shrub to take root better. The disadvantage of the method is the lack of a crop in the year of transplantation. However, for the sake of saving a valuable variety, you can endure. For gardeners in the northern regions, spring transplantation is the only way to preserve the culture. If the procedure is performed in the fall, the adult plant will not have time to take root and will freeze.
- Summer. Currant in the summer actively grows and bears fruit. Transplantation can be resorted to with a forced measure. An adult bush with berries is unlikely to take root in a new place, and you can try to move a young plant. When transplanting, it is important to adhere to two rules: to preserve the integrity of the root with a clod of earth to the maximum and often water the planted plant.
- Autumn. After fruiting, currants gradually begin to prepare for winter. The growth activity of the plant decreases every day, sap flow decreases, and a period of calm begins. Autumn is considered the best time to transplant, but not in the northern regions. With the rapid onset of winter, the root system will not have time to strengthen. Many gardeners prefer to transplant currants in the fall because of the opportunity to get a crop in a new place in the summer.
The video talks about the intricacies of the summer transplant process:
When to start transplanting currants in the fall, the gardener himself determines the weather. For example, in the middle lane, the period from the second decade of September to the second decade of October is considered the best time. In the south, the dates can be moved closer to November. Early transplantation is dangerous. During intensive watering, the shrub can grow fresh foliage. With the onset of frost, it will freeze, and the fruit buds will die. Until late autumn, too, you can not pull. The bush should have time to take root.
Blackcurrant transplant in autumn
The process of transplanting currants with different fruit colors is the same, but for each species there are a number of nuances. A culture with black berries has differences in the structure of the root system and loves water. When the blackcurrant transplant is completed in the fall to a new place, the plant is watered abundantly every day. You can not even be afraid that there is a whole swamp under the bush.
Important! Abundant watering of blackcurrant is needed only at the initial stage before rooting. In the future, the culture is poured with water once a week.
To get good results, blackcurrants need to choose a favorable new place. A sunny area is best. Light shading is allowed. Branches with the foliage of neighboring trees should not hang over the bushes, otherwise the threat of catching a fungal disease in the fall increases. If a transplant of several bushes is planned, then a distance of 1.5 m is maintained between them. The shrub is removed from the fence by at least 1 m.
Attention! The new place should not be swampy. The high location of groundwater will accelerate the engraftment of the root system, but over time it will begin to rot.
Young seedlings at the age of 1 year or two-three-year-old bushes are best suited for transplanting. Wells are prepared in advance. The size is approximately 40x60 cm in depth and width, respectively. If the dug out plant turns out to be with a large root, the hole is expanded. Compost is poured at the bottom of the pit, 200 g of ash is added. From above, the nutrient mixture is sprinkled with a thin layer of black soil. The shrub is lowered with its roots into the hole, a bucket of water is poured out, covered with earth.
Pruning cannot be combined with transplantation. The plant does not need double stress. If the bush needs pruning, then it is better to do it 3 weeks before transplanting or wait until spring.
Redcurrant transplant in autumn
Redcurrant does not tolerate high moisture. However, the first two weeks for the engraftment of the roots require abundant watering. In order to prevent waterlogging when transplanting red currants in the fall to a new place, drainage from small stones is organized at the bottom of the hole before filling with compost with ash.
The lower need for moisture is due to a different structure of the root system. In red currant, the root grows large, branched. A hole in a new place will have to be dug larger than for an aronia crop. All other actions during transplantation are no different.
Advice! Redcurrant is more capricious, weaker, more difficult to take root in a new place. If possible, it is better to transplant the culture not in the fall, but in the spring.
How to transplant a currant bush in autumn
Currants of any variety are transplanted in the fall according to the same general rules. To get a positive result, it is important to follow them.
Location selection
A new place for culture is chosen according to the following rules:
- The currant is suitable for a sunny area with a slight penumbra. Planting in the shade is allowed, but the quality of fruiting will decrease.
- The relief is a plain or small elevations. Rain and melt water will accumulate in the lowlands.
- From other fruit trees, it is desirable to maintain a distance of at least 2 m.
It is important to consider the location of groundwater in the new location. A minimum depth of 1.5 m is allowed.
Soil preparation
When transplanting currants in autumn, it is important to prepare favorable soil in a new place. The culture develops well on sandy soil, well fertilized with organic matter. If the site has loamy soil, mineral fertilizers are added to the organic matter.
The size of the hole depends on the size of the root system. Currants in the fall must be dug up, preserving, if possible, a whole clod of earth. To begin with, you can prepare a hole 40 cm deep, 60 cm wide. From organic matter, humus, ash, peat or compost are used to prepare the substrate. When fertilizing loamy soil, 30 g of potassium sulfate and 30 g of superphosphate are added.
Bush preparation
Three weeks before transplanting to a new place, the currant bush is put in order. In autumn, active processes stop, so you can safely cut off extra branches. Shoots older than five years old, damaged and weak stems are cut with secateurs. Long branches are shortened to 50 cm. The procedure is mandatory so that the shrub has time to take root in the fall. Long shoots will only take nutrients.
In order to preserve the root to the maximum, a crown projection circle is roughly outlined on the ground. The resulting ring is expanded by another 15 cm. First, the bush is dug in along the markings from all sides. Having gone deep to 40 cm, they try to pry off a clod of earth with roots with a bayonet. At the same time, they try to pull the currants by thick branches at the base of the root with their hands. You can't put in a lot of effort. If a clod of earth with roots is well dug up, the bush will be easily removed.
Broken ends of the roots, peeking out of the earthy coma, are cut with secateurs. If the root system is rotten, the clod of earth is completely destroyed. Secateurs cut off damaged areas. Currant roots are dipped in a bucket with a solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes for disinfection.
How best to dig currants is shown in the video:
Landing
The planting algorithm in a new place will be different for currants dug up with a clod of earth and bare roots. In the second case, do the following:
If the currant was dug out with a clod of earth, then it is simply lowered into a hole, covered with a substrate, poured with plenty of water. When transplanting, they try to ensure that the shrub in the new place is buried in the same way as it grew before.
Care after the autumn transplant
The main autumn care for currants in a new place is frequent watering. At the same time it is required to loosen the soil. A better supply of oxygen to the roots accelerates engraftment. In rainy autumn, the amount of watering is reduced, otherwise the plant will get wet.
Feeding after transplantation in the fall is not needed, and a weakened culture must be protected from diseases and pests hiding for the winter. Currants are sprayed with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.
In late autumn, the trunk circle is insulated with mulch, up to 20 cm thick. With the first snow falling, they try to cover the shrub for additional crown insulation.
Conclusion
Transplanting currants in the fall to a new place resembles the process of planting a purchased seedling. The only difference is the need to extract the plant from the old place.