Individual heating and hot water supply have long ceased to be something unusual. This is convenient and practical, and also allows you not to depend on the whims of utility services. Well, if some trouble suddenly happens, for example, it turns out that the boiler does not heat the water, then you will have to fix the breakdown on your own.
No, this does not mean that you should arm yourself with a tool and start repairing yourself - for this there are specialized companies that provide such services. If the heating boiler is working properly, but does not heat the water, then specialists will repair it, adjust the boiler according to your wishes, and, if necessary, flush the heating system. All work will be done efficiently and guaranteed.
Modern gas boilers are reliable and powerful heating devices that also perform the function of heating water. They successfully combine seemingly incompatible things - unsurpassed efficiency and compact size. But their uninterrupted operation is only possible with regular maintenance, detection and elimination of the slightest faults.
Malfunctions of heating boilers
Mostly, major malfunctions begin to appear during the heating season, when two boiler circuits are operating - heating and water heating. It may happen that it does not start at all, or does not heat well enough. With the launch, the issue will have to be resolved separately, but if the water does not heat up enough, then the reason may be a clogged heat exchanger. As you know, the water quality in our systems is far from ideal, and few users install mechanical cleaning filters in front of the boiler. This is where the heat exchanger becomes clogged, resulting in poor boiler performance.
Here are the most common malfunctions of gas boilers when they do not heat the water well:
- periodically switches off spontaneously,
- smokes a lot,
- does not develop enough power,
- makes noise
- clogged,
- the pump is broken.
If it happens that the gas boiler does not heat the water, then often the reason is the formation of limescale on the walls of the heat exchanger, which, as it accumulates, becomes very durable and not only reduces the water temperature, but also reduces the throughput of the boiler. The thermal conductivity of scale is tens of times less than that of metal, so it is not surprising that the boiler does not heat the water. If you do not take any preventive measures, then very soon you will have to completely disassemble the boiler and remove deposits mechanically.
This problem can only be helped by timely washing of the heat exchangers, and this should be done regularly, especially if cleaning and softening filters are not installed in front of the boiler. Special chemicals are used for flushing, but they should be used with great care, since they are equally destructive to lime deposits and to the material from which the heat exchanger is made. It is best to invite a specialist for this purpose.
To ensure safe and efficient operation of your gas boiler, preventative maintenance is recommended. It is advisable to do this regularly before the start of the heating season; you should not wait for a situation when the boiler does not heat the water. This approach will ensure its long service life and economical operation. Major repairs are carried out as needed by a service center employee - it is strictly prohibited to do this yourself.
One of the problems that can happen when using a double-circuit boiler. The boiler does not heat hot water. The main and most common reason why the boiler does not heat water well is that the heat exchanger is clogged.
In this article I will describe how I treat this problem. This way you can also get out of the situation if you have a double boiler with a plate heat exchanger.
My house has a well and the water is very hard, so I constantly have problems with hot water. To remedy the situation, I use citric acid.
This is the task. How to deliver this acid to the inside of the heat exchanger with the least effort.
I found this way. At the entrance to the boiler I have a magnetic converter, which is supposed to remove water hardness, but it does not remove it, in my opinion this is a fiction. But the good thing for me is that it is installed right at the entrance to the boiler. You can see it in the photo below.
There is an American nut on it; after unscrewing it, you can easily pour citric acid into the inside of the pipe.
But to do this you need to turn off the water. I have a collector next to the boiler. He is in the photo below.
Now all the channels on it are open and with one easy movement I turn off the water supply to the boiler.
All water is shut off, now you can unscrew the American connection on the magnetic filter. And don’t forget to come up with something from the flowing water from the boiler, there isn’t a lot of it, but it is there. I wrapped up the rag.
Then I pour citric acid into the inside of the pipe.
I screw the American valve back and open the tap for supplying tap water to the boiler.
Now it is important to understand when the acid will enter the heat exchanger. Since my water tap is located a meter from the boiler, I determine whether the acid has reached the heat exchanger to taste. I just open the tap in short jerks and taste it to see if it’s “sour”, which means the entire system from the magnetic filter to the tap is filled with citric acid.
Next, you need to turn off the tap so that your household does not drain all the acid ahead of time.
I charge the system at night and it stays acidic until the morning. In the morning I open the water supply tap to the boiler and drain all the acid. The water will hiss, don’t be alarmed.
The question may arise, will the acid eat away at the heat exchanger? I did some digging on the chemists' forum and came to the conclusion that organic acid (citric acid) is harmless to copper.
I use this method when necessary. If you don’t like how the boiler heats the water or the pressure of hot water has become weak, I take the heat exchanger and treat it with citric acid.
If you have connections to the boiler made of polypropylene, and there is no place to put the acid, then come up with something similar; it won’t take much time.
Questions about Arderia boiler malfunctions
Question: On my Arderia esr 2.13 ffcd gas double-circuit boiler, the display shows error AA (water boiling). You set the temperature, it adjusts it as usual, and then as soon as it drops a few degrees, it turns on, and so on ad infinitum. It turns out that it turns on every 10 seconds. The pump is working, the filter is cleaned, all taps are open, the sensor is working. Most likely the problem is with the 3-way valve. Tell me what
do?
Answer: You need to call a technician to reconfigure the boiler, namely, Arderia has a service menu that you can access from the control panel, where you need to increase the setting of the difference between the set temperature and the start temperature.
Question: After 2 years of normal operation, the following things began to happen: when the heating is turned on, during heating, a sharp increase in pressure occurs (according to the indications of the dial “pressure gauge”) and an emergency discharge of the coolant. What is the problem?
Answer: Most likely - damage to the membrane of the expansion tank or lack of air (nitrogen) in the air chamber (unless, of course, there is a shut-off valve on the tank that “accidentally” closed. It is also possible that the three-way valve is faulty.
Question: We installed and connected a gas wall-mounted boiler Arderia 2.13, which served without complaints for exactly 2 years and malfunctions began. The heating works fine. But the hot water does not want to heat up. The burner goes out, then lights up again and the water comes out barely warm or even cold. And when you open the tap, the batteries suddenly start to heat up. Who has encountered this, tell me what it could mean?
Answer: If barely warm water flows, then the three-way valve is switching. As an option, a 2nd heat exchanger on the heating side. That is, if the heating boiler operates stably and reaches its nominal value, then no. If the hot water pressure is normal, it is possible that the secondary heat exchanger along the heating channel is clogged. At the request of the DHW, the boiler lights up and goes to nominal, but the heat is not removed, so the boiler extinguishes the burner. Another option is that the hot water temperature sensor is lying.
Question: We installed and connected the wall-mounted boiler Arderia esr 2.13 ffcd. Worked for 4 years. Recently everything turned off. Right down to the backlighting of the remote control. It does not go into emergency mode. I removed the board, pulled it out of the casing, there are 2 fuses. But they are intact. What happened and how to save yourself? There is a complete feeling that the power has simply disappeared. Power supply through stabilizer. The stabilizer is working.
Answer: Change the board, set the DIPs on the new board to the same as on the old one.
Question: We installed and started up a gas double-circuit boiler arderia esr 2.20. I have a question about its operating mode. The boiler operates practically without stopping the pump, while the coolant temperature drops to a set value after the burner is turned off, and the burner fires again. And so on almost without pause. I didn't notice this before. It was also noticed that when you turn on the hot water supply, very hot water first comes out of the tap; you cannot put your hands on it. Is this a malfunction and how to increase the pause time.
I also wanted to ask about this moment. I tried to regulate the operation of the boiler according to the room temperature.
Boiler doesn't heat water? There is only one reason - scale
I set it to 27 degrees (lower is not comfortable), the boiler works for a long time, the coolant heats up to the maximum (80 degrees C), then when it gets hot it turns off.
He may even “fall asleep” for a long time (for half a day or more), although the rooms are already getting cool and it wouldn’t hurt to turn on, but I look at the remote control - the temperature shows 27, although there is a feeling that it has dropped significantly lower. Either the sensitivity of the remote control is very uncomfortable + -1
degree, or is this some kind of malfunction. Who can say anything on this issue. The boiler has been in operation for 2 years.
Answer: I can assume that the remote control is poorly positioned; there is no air circulation around it.
Question: I don’t like the operating mode of the Arderia esr 2.20 ffcd gas boiler when regulated by coolant temperature. I will describe the operating mode in more detail: Let’s say the coolant temperature has dropped to the lower limit at which the gas supply is triggered and heating occurs
coolant.
Moreover, heating occurs within no more than half a minute, while the pump continues to circulate water. Over the next half a minute, during the circulation of the coolant, it cools down again to the lower limit and heating is turned on again, and so on with virtually no pauses. I haven’t changed the settings (factory settings) and I don’t know how to do it.
The only thing I checked was the parameters given in the manual, they are the same. Previously, I had not noticed this mode of operation, because it was the other way around: at first, after the boiler was activated, the coolant circulated without heating, then the heating was turned on, the pump continued circulation for a certain time, then it turned off and there was a pause in its operation, now this pause simply does not exist.
Sometimes during the day, in order not to load the boiler, I turn on the timer mode (but the minimum value there is one hour). I would like to hear your opinion on how the boiler works and how to put it in order?
Answer: The other day there was an error A8, the boiler was puffing like a steam locomotive, the burner ignited and went out after 30 seconds. This happened after heating the water in the heating system and flushing the heating circuit in the boiler. The problems have disappeared. I recommend that you also start cleaning the boiler.
Question: We installed and started up the Arderia 2.20 boiler. The hot water supply is either cold or hot, the gas is not cut off at this time. After 20-25 minutes it is constantly hot. Another thing is that the water becomes at a comfortable temperature (not cold) only with a small pressure at one point; if you open hot water in another place, the boiler may go out. I read the instructions, I am inclined to think that it is necessary to flush the DHW heat exchanger. Can you tell me anything else?
Answer: Maybe your heating system is airy, and while air and water are circulating through the circuit through the heating heat exchanger, the water temperature is unstable. I think you can check this by turning off the boiler for half an hour and turning on the heating, listen to the sound of bubbling in the boiler, if it is bubbling, then the air is bubbling, if not, then probably the three-way valve.
If this is the diagram of your boiler, then there is a high probability that the three-way valve is faulty
because it stands at the outlet of the heat exchanger and very hot coolant comes out through it and destroys the 3-way valve. On most boilers, the 3-way is located on the heating return and operates at a lower temperature.
Question: A wall-mounted boiler Arderia 2.20 is installed and connected in the house. The problem is that it doesn't heat hot water. When the mixer is opened, cold water comes out, this happens in both summer and winter mode. When the mountains open water, the flame turns on and it heats the heating circuit. At first I thought it was a three-way valve, so I bought a new one and installed it. But the problem was not solved, everything remained the same. Tell me what to do?
Answer: Diagram: The hot water tap was opened - flow began - the DHW flow sensor was triggered - a signal was received on the control board - the control board processed the signal and sent a command to the three-way valve - the three-way valve worked and redirected the heating water to the plate heat exchanger - heating of the cold household began. water in the secondary plate heat exchanger - mountains came out of the water tap. household water.
What is the weak link in this algorithm? DHW sensor - board - three-way valve. Let's start in order with the sensor. The sensor may simply not work due to the fact that the pressure that creates the water flow is weak or there is increased hydraulic resistance, i.e. the filter is clogged or there is dirt in the sensor itself. A clogged secondary also creates increased hydraulic resistance, but in this case, heating of the hot water supply would most likely occur in pulsation mode, and would not be absent at all, especially not at all.
Question: We installed and commissioned the Arderia ESR 2.35 FFCD gas boiler. There is a decent pop when igniting. I cleaned and inspected the gas valve, pipe, electrodes, etc. I played with the min. pressure on the valve, did more and less than the factory one. It still slams, although a little less. When you pull the wires off the modulating coil, the turbine gradually begins to spin up to high speeds (from observation).
With the modulating coil wires removed, the boiler ignites more smoothly. How can I make it work at minimum without disconnecting the modulating coil? How to reduce the starting voltage on the coil? Reduce the starting voltage on the coil - Switch 5 on the board - to the lower position. Then use the “MIN” resistor on the board to reduce the pressure. Then return switch 5 to its place.
Answer: When adding gas, the boiler adds air. The power was removed, the flame decreased, the temperature dropped, he adds voltage to the modulation coil and increases the fan speed. Just in case: there is a screw under the modulation coil. It allows you to change the min. gas pressure without changing fan speed. But act wisely, because it will be difficult to return it back.
Question: I have the same problem with the Arderia double-circuit boiler. The hot water supply is constantly at 40 degrees, now summer is warming up, probably 70-75 degrees, I can’t say for sure! I called the technician, unfortunately, we live in a regional center far from service centers! He told me that either the cold water pressure is weak or it is warmer in the summer season and therefore the water overheats! He says to turn down the gas supply on the board or on the valve, in my opinion tighten the nut, no use! You turn off the water, and it still hums for 1-2 minutes! Maybe something can be done to stop the water from heating up so much?
Answer: You need to check the burner setting; if it’s normal, then simply open the water tap harder.
Question: We installed an Arderia esr 2.13 ffcd boiler. It seems to be crammed with automation, but gas workers are forcing us to install an SCP with 2 sensors for CH4 and CO. I still agree to methane, but I don’t want to throw money away for the second one. Yes, and SNiP echoes the same thing to me. But they are of no use. I want to prove that the boiler has a reverse draft sensor (also known as a carbon monoxide concentration sensor), but I can’t find documentary evidence anywhere. Although he is definitely there. If there is a notorious reverse draft sensor. Show me where it is in the boiler?
Answer: The role of a draft sensor is performed by an air pressure switch. Located inside the device. It will turn off the boiler if the chimney or air supply pipes are clogged. Or it will not allow it to turn on during these problems. The draft breaker is just one of the elements of the boiler; in fact, the reverse draft sensor is located on it (if we talk about boilers with an open combustion chamber). And if the flue gas leak does not occur at the place where this sensor is installed (this could be a leak in the chimney after the boiler or through leaks in the combustion chamber), then this sensor will not react in any way.
Question: The Arderia dsr 220r boiler has been in operation for about a year. About a month ago, problems with the hot water supply started (when hot water is turned on, the AA error light comes on), I checked the electric drive of the three-way tap - it works, I turned it with a screwdriver and the tap itself turns normally. I put it back together and it worked, but not for long, a week and again the AA error.
When the hot water supply is turned on, hot water only enters the hot water supply pipe for a few seconds (apparently at the moment the tap is switched on), and then all the boiling water goes into the heating circuit and after a while the AA error lights up. I took everything apart again, twisted it, but it didn’t help anymore. When the tap rotates inside in certain positions, clicks are heard like contacts of a relay or position sensor.
What could be the problem?
Answer: These contacts are the problem. perhaps they are simply broken or rotted or stuck. Disassemble, look, change. Another option is that the secondary heat exchanger may be clogged with salt deposits. Rinse and clean.
Question: Tell me, I heard that three-way valves often fail on Arderia 2.13 boilers. How can you extend their service life?
Answer: I can say that the three-way valve of the Arderia is normal (almost like everyone else’s) 🙂 the bottleneck is the seal of the drive axis (I suspect that there is no seal there at all). I take it apart as a preventive measure, fill the contact group with lubricant and reassemble it. In essence, a three-way tap valve is a switch for the flow of coolant from the main heat exchanger either to CO or to the DHW plate heat exchanger.
The three-way design uses contacts (we can call them limit switches), depending on the closed contact, voltage is applied to the first or second contact, when the desired position of the locking ball is reached, the contact is mechanically opened electrically. the engine stops. The CO or DHW circuit operates accordingly. The reasons for the failure are trivial: poor sealing of the locking ball drive shaft.
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What to do if the Vailant boiler does not heat hot water
Vailant boilers are particularly reliable and safe. Breakdowns of such complex equipment must be repaired by a specialist. But, minor faults can be removed yourself if you have a basic level of knowledge about the design of heating and heating boilers.
Most faults are indicated on the boiler display. Having deciphered the errors, you can figure out the reason for the boiler’s failure to heat water. Where to start searching if water heating in the Vailant boiler does not work and the indicator does not show an error or can it be interpreted in different ways?
Vaillant boiler does not heat hot water due to blockages
This is one of the most common problems. Most often, the reason is poor water quality - scale appears, components, filters and pipes become clogged.
If the flame does not light up in the boiler, start checking with the flow sensor. Finding this cylindrical device is quite simple. The flow sensor is located near the pump; the wires go to it. There are two sensors installed near the pump:
- Pressure sensor in the heating system.
- Flow sensor.
The flow sensor looks like a small fan; it begins to rotate as water moves through the pipes. If the flow sensor detects the movement of water, the automation receives a signal to turn on the gas and heat the water.
Gas boiler does not heat hot water
If the flow sensor is clogged, water will flow but the fan will not move. Accordingly, the signal to turn on the heating is not received. There are two ways to solve the problem:
- Don’t rush to disassemble the boiler and try to “blow out” the system first. Turn off the main water supply valve to the house. Open the hot water tap and drain the system. Now the percentage of air in the pipes has increased. Start sharply opening and closing the water tap immediately in front of the boiler. These simple manipulations will help create pressure and clear the flow sensor fan of debris.
- If “blowing” does not solve the problem, you need to open the boiler, unscrew the flow sensor and clean it manually.
If the Vaillant boiler does not heat hot water, the secondary heat exchanger should be checked. It also tends to get clogged quickly. But, fortunately, it can be easily removed, cleaned and reinstalled.
A clogged three-way valve can also cause the boiler to fail to heat water. And you can remove this unit yourself, clean it and install it back.
Having bought the Vailant boiler, be sure to check with the seller information about the places where filters are installed. You can clean and change these components yourself.
Faulty pump
Heating of water in a Vailant boiler largely depends on the operation of the pump. To repair or replace this unit, you must call a specialist. But, you can check for yourself whether this is the reason for the boiler’s failure to work.
Set the water temperature on the boiler to 0 °C and turn on the water heating mode. During this time, monitor the operation of the pump. If after 20 minutes of operation it does not heat up, then the problem is with the pump.
The reason for the boiler’s failure to heat water may also be due to a simple loosening of the bolts at the connection areas. Carefully examine the boiler diagram and check that all connections fit tightly. Perhaps simply tightening the bolts will solve your problem.
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Repair and errors of gas boilers Viessmann Vitopend 100-W
Replacing a flow-through heat exchanger
Close the wall-mounted boiler Viessmann Vitopend 100-W on the heating circuit side and on the DHW side and drain the water from it.
Fig.8. Dismantling the flow-through heat exchanger
E - Heating circuit flow, F - Heating circuit return, G - Cold water pipe, H - Hot water pipe
Check the connections of the DHW water supply circuit for the presence of scale, and the connections of the heating circuit for contamination. If necessary, clean or replace the flow-through heat exchanger.
Work to replace a flow-through heat exchanger:
— Move stepper motor A slightly upward.
— Turn the stepper motor adapter B with stepper motor A 1/8 turn counterclockwise and remove it.
— Loosen the two screws C on the flow-through heat exchanger and remove the flow-through heat exchanger D together with the seals.
— Reassembly of the flow heat exchanger D is carried out in the reverse order using new seals. Torque of mounting screws: 5.5 Nm.
— During installation, ensure the position of the mounting holes and the correct seating of the seals.
— Ensure the correct position when installing the flow-through heat exchanger. Observe the “Top” marking.
— Reassemble the hot water boiler in reverse order.
— Fill the hot water boiler with water, bleed (remove air) and check for leaks.
Temperature limiter and boiler sensors Visman Vitopend 100-W
Fig.9.
The boiler does not heat or does not heat hot water well: reason and solution
Removing the temperature limiter and boiler sensors Viessmann Vitopend 100-W
A - Temperature limiter, B - Boiler water temperature sensor, C - Hot water outlet temperature sensor (gas combi boiler), D - Draft stall control sensor, 5 - Cylinder temperature sensor (gas single-circuit boiler)
Temperature limiter
Check that the gas burner control does not reset after an emergency shutdown, although the boiler water temperature is below 90 °C.
— Check the current flow of the temperature limiter using a universal measuring device.
— Remove the faulty temperature limiter.
— Install a new temperature limiter.
— To unlock, turn the regulator knob to the right for a short time and then back. The ignition process is repeated.
Boiler water temperature sensor:
— Disconnect the cables from the sensor.
— The boiler water temperature sensor is located directly in the heating medium (risk of scalding).
— Before replacing the sensor, drain the water from the boiler.
Outlet temperature sensor (Viessmann Vitopend gas combi boiler):
— Disconnect the cables from the sensor.
— Measure the resistance of the sensor and compare it with the characteristic.
— If the deviation is severe, replace the sensor.
— Before replacing the sensor, empty the boiler on the DHW side of the circuit.
Traction stall control sensor:
— Disconnect the cables from the sensor.
— Measure the resistance of the sensor and compare it with the characteristic.
— If the deviation is severe, replace the sensor.
Temperature sensor for cylinder water heater (gas single-circuit boiler Visman Vitopend):
— Disconnect plug 5 from the cable harness outside the controller.
— Measure the resistance of the sensor and compare it with the characteristic.
— If the deviation is severe, replace the sensor.
Malfunction indication (error codes) of Viessmann Vitopend 100-W boilers and their elimination
A0 - Burner blocked
Gas pressure too low - Check gas pressure and gas pressure switch
E0 - Burner blocked
The draft stall control device has tripped - Check the gas duct. If the draft stall control device operates 10 times within 24 hours, the burner goes into fault mode (fault indication “F6”).
F2 - Burner fault
The temperature limiter has tripped - Check the filling level of the heating system. Check the circulation pump. Remove air from the installation.
Check temperature limiter connecting cables. To unlock, turn the regulator knob almost all the way to the right and then back (reset).
F3 - Burner fault
The flame signal is already present when the burner is started - Check the ionization electrode and connecting cables. Turn mains switch 8 off and on again (or reset, see F2).
F4 - Burner fault
No flame signal - Check ignition electrodes/ionization electrode and connecting cables, check gas pressure, check gas control valves, ignition, ignition transformer.
F6 - Burner fault
The traction control device has tripped - Check the traction control sensor.
F30 - Burner blocked
Short circuit of the boiler temperature sensor - Check the boiler water temperature sensor.
F38 - Burner blocked
Broken boiler temperature sensor - Check the boiler water temperature sensor.
F50 - No hot water preparation
Short circuit of the temperature sensor of the cylinder water heater (gas single-circuit boiler Visman Vitopend) - Check the sensor.
F51 - No hot water preparation
Short circuit of the hot water outlet temperature sensor (Viessmann Vitopend gas combi boiler) - Check the temperature sensor.
F58 - No hot water preparation
Break in the temperature sensor of the cylinder water heater (gas single-circuit boiler Viessmann Vitopend 100) - Check the sensor.
F59 - No hot water preparation
Breakage of the hot water temperature sensor at the outlet (gas combined water heating boiler Visman Vitopend) - Check the sensor.
b0 - Burner blocked
Short circuit of the traction control sensor - Check the traction control sensor.
b8 - Burner blocked
Broken traction control sensor - Check the sensor.
Possible reasons for changes in room temperature
The rooms are too cold:
— Incorrect setting of the room temperature controller — Set the room temperature controller to the desired room temperature.
— Heating system is switched off — Turn on the mains switch. Turn on the main switch if available (located outside the boiler room). Check the fuse in the electrical distribution panel (house input fuse).
— Incorrect controller setting — Set the regulator knob to a higher coolant temperature.
— Priority for hot water preparation — Finish hot water extraction or wait for the cylinder to finish heating.
— Fault indication on the display: The “U” symbol and a fault code appear, for example, “F2” — Turn the control knob almost all the way to the right and then back (reset). If the fault indication appears again, contact your heating company.
— Air in the heating system — Bleed the radiators.
— No fuel — Open the gas shut-off valve.
— Malfunction in the supply air system or in the gas path — Contact your heating service.
— The circulation pump is faulty — Contact customer service.
The rooms are too warm:
— Incorrect setting of the room temperature controller — Set the room temperature controller to the desired room temperature
— Incorrect controller setting — Set the regulator knob to a lower hot water temperature.
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DIY geyser repair Oasis
Today we will look at repairing the Chinese gas water heater Oasis with our own hands step by step.
The most common malfunction of the Oasis geyser is the failure of the water block membrane. However, the Oasis usually does not light up. It is not difficult to identify this malfunction, and you can do the repair yourself. We will look at disassembling the column below. To begin, remove the column body, set the water flow regulator on the water block of the column to the fully clockwise position and open the hot water tap. At the same time, we look at the microswitch, which is located in the middle - between the gas and water blocks of the column. If the membrane is working properly, then the rod of the water block presses on the tab, which releases the microswitch button, accordingly the column should make a crackling noise and light up. If the foot moves away from the microswitch well, but there is no clicking sound, then the microswitch is most likely faulty. It can be checked by disconnecting the connector and shorting the contacts.
Let's consider the case when the foot barely moves, or stands completely motionless when turning on the water in the tap. It is likely that the membrane of the water block is torn and the pressure necessary for the movement of the water block is not created. Another common malfunction is a leak in the stuffing box of the Oasis geyser. A seal leak usually leads to a breakdown of the same microswitch, because drops drip onto it. If you find this particular malfunction, then do not waste time and change the oil seal assembly, otherwise your Oasis will soon stop igniting and turning on. Spare parts for repairing an Oasis gas water heater are not expensive, and I advise that if you are trying to disassemble the water block of an Oasis gas water heater, immediately change both the membrane and the stem seal assembly. Essentially these are consumables. It will be a shame later when, having changed the stuffing box, you are faced with replacing the water block membrane a month later, or vice versa. From experience, I came across something else... Let’s say you replaced a new membrane, your oil seal didn’t leak, it seemed like they left it... But it either leaked after a week, or, what’s even worse, when the water was turned off, the column continued to burn, overheated, spit out steam, something happened something even more unpleasant if you didn’t have time to turn off the gas. Why did this happen? It's simple.. The water block rod in the stuffing box unit did not go all the way, but after replacing the membrane it began to go all the way. When the rod barely moved, it was overgrown with salts and rust in the place where it did not go into the oil seal... Then everything is clear. The abrasive rod either erases the oil seal ring, or it may even jam there and not return to its original position. If you are lucky, then after this, at least the heat exchanger of the column will not leak, otherwise you will end up with expensive repairs
This means that a malfunction in the water block of the gas water heater has been found and you can consider how to repair the Oasis gas water heater with your own hands and disassemble the water heater. So, let's start step by step:
1. Remove from the gas water heater handle 1 for adjusting the gas supply of the gas block, handle 2 for adjusting the water flow of the water block, handle 3 for switching the gas water heater to winter/summer mode.
2. Find two self-tapping screws securing the speaker housing cover to the rear wall of the Oasis speaker from the bottom right and left and unscrew them. It is usually difficult to get to the screws. Next, remove the front panel of the Oasis geyser from the upper hooks of the rear wall of the column.
3. Carefully, so as not to tear, disconnect the connectors of the wires that go to the column display from the control unit and from the temperature sensor.
4. Unscrew the two screws that secure the water block of the Oasis speaker to the back wall.
5. Unscrew the two screws that secure the geyser heat exchanger tube to the water block and release the pressure flange. Remove the tube from the water block.
6. Disconnect the microswitch connector. The photo shows that he is wrapped in cellophane. The stuffing box assembly was leaking on this column, and so they decided to “collect it” in order to save the microswitch.
7. Disconnect the wires from the gas solenoid valve.
8. Disconnect the ground wire from the gas block by unscrewing the screw.
10. Disconnect the two screws that secure the block of ignition and ionization electrodes to the burner of the Oasis gas water heater. Let's remove the wires going to the electrodes.
11. Unscrew the 2 screws that secure the gas block of the column to the rear wall.
Why did the double-circuit gas boiler suddenly stop heating hot water?
Disconnect the power wires 1 from the battery compartment 2 of the geyser.
13. Now nothing prevents us from dismantling the water-gas unit and burner assembly.
14. I tighten the two halves of the column water block housing with 4 screws. To disassemble the block, we need to unscrew them. Most likely, you won't be able to do this if you go in there with a screwdriver. The screws are made of low quality steel and you will strip the splines. To prevent this from happening, I advise you to first rip off the screws with something like pliers, and then calmly turn them with a screwdriver.
15. The block is halved.
16. Remove the water block membrane 1 and the water block rod plate 2.
16. Under the plate of the water block rod there is a hexagon - this is the visible part of the stuffing box assembly. We need to unscrew it. Usually it unscrews easily, but the hexagon is 15 or 16 (not a common size in Russia). The edge is very thin, it is difficult to catch it with a key. Don't rip it off.
17. In this photo we see the stuffing box assembly that I removed.
At this point we have completed the disassembly, now the Oasis Geyser can be assembled in the reverse order by changing the stuffing box and membrane. I also change the microswitch if water drips on it. But this is at your discretion. I hope my article was useful to you, and you made repairs and fixed the problems yourself. If you don’t want to bother with finding spare parts and doing repairs yourself, then contact me, I’ll come for repairs
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I hope you find the instructions for the Oasis gas water heater useful. Download
2017-06-07 Evgeniy Fomenko
Why does the boiler not heat water for the heating system?
There can be many reasons why a gas boiler does not heat water for heating. We will consider the main ones and ways to eliminate these reasons below.
The boiler turns on, but the heating does not heat.
Possible causes and their elimination:
Battery bleed valve It operates on the principle of an expansion tank, without reducing the pressure in the system. After the unit has been idle for a long time, check the valve; it may become clogged with scale;
Connect pump hoses with a filtration system to the inlet and outlet and rinse the heat exchanger with a special cleaning liquid. Afterwards, be sure to rinse the boiler with clean water to remove chemical residues, otherwise the remaining particles of the product can lead to corrosion of the heat exchanger, pipes and heating batteries.
Flushing the heat exchanger
The use of reagents as coolant additives significantly reduces scale formation. But not all models allow the use of antifreeze. Manufacturers Ariston (Ariston), Arderia (Arderia), Navien (Navien), Buderus, Viessmann (Wismann), Electrolux (Electrolux) prohibit the use of antifreeze, recommending the use of distilled water.
In the instructions for the models Rinnai, Baxi, Vaillant, Celtic, Ferroli, AOGV 11 6, Beretta, Bosch, Neva Lux, Protherm, Junkers, Koreastar (Koreastar), Daewoo allows the use of antifreeze. Please note that not all antifreeze is suitable for these boilers.
The principle of operation of a double-circuit heating boiler
Using a gas unit as an example, let’s look at the operating principle of a double-circuit boiler. The design of the unit is a system of blocks, the operation of which is interconnected and controlled by a security system, which includes various sensors. The main blocks are a gas block, where ignition and combustion occurs, a hydraulic block, which regulates the flow and pressure of liquid, and a smoke removal block, which removes gas combustion products.
When the boiler is turned on, the circulation pump is initially started, then gas is supplied using the gas valve. Automatic ignition ignites the gas, and as the gas burns, the heat exchanger heats up, heating the coolant passing through it. In this mode, the unit will work for some time until the parameters that are regulated by sensors change.
Sensors monitor the temperature in the room, in the return flow, gas pressure, system pressure, draft flow, and the presence of flame. Temperature sensors can regulate the temperature at the inlet or outlet of the heating circuit. If there is a sensor on the return, when the set temperature is reached, the thermostat sends a signal to the electronic board, which, after processing it, turns off the gas supply.
In this case, the circulation pump will run for some time to cool the heat exchanger. This is done so that the remaining heat in the heat exchanger does not bring the coolant to a boil. After the water in the system has cooled to the set temperature, the electronic board will start the pump, the gas valve will open the gas and the entire cycle of operation of the double-circuit boiler will be repeated.
When a hot water tap is opened, the flow sensor is activated and the control board switches the three-way valve to heat the secondary heat exchanger. Heating hot water in the system is a priority, i.e. immediately after you open the hot water tap, the entire system will only work to heat this water.
When the tap closes, the reverse process occurs - the board transmits a signal to the three-way valve, it closes the DHW system and the unit again starts working on the heating circuit. Please remember that it will take some time for the unit to produce hot water from your tap.
Some devices are equipped with a “quick start” or “comfort” function. This function allows the boiler to switch the three-way valve from time to time and heat the water in the secondary coolant.
DHW does not heat up - causes and troubleshooting.
The most common reason why DHW does not heat up is severe scale formation inside the heat exchanger. Scale not only narrows the water flow in the heat exchanger, it significantly reduces the water temperature.
The reason for this is that the thermal conductivity of scale salts is many times less than the thermal conductivity of the metal from which the heat exchanger is made. The unit does not produce (does not supply) hot water or it flows poorly if a piece of plaque has broken off and blocked the flow of liquid.
Hot water does not flow into the tap when the flow sensor does not work. It is a fan that works when water flows through it. in this case, the signal from it is sent to the control board, which gives a command to heat the water. The sensor may become clogged; it can be cleaned without dismantling it.
The sensor is a cylinder located near the circulation pump. To clean, simply open and close the tap in front of the device. If this procedure does not produce results, you will have to dismantle it, clean it and put it in its original place. If the sensor is not working, you will have to replace it.
If the three-way valve is faulty, the unit will not produce hot water. The purpose of the three-way valve is to shut off the heating system when the hot water tap opens. When the valve does not switch, the boiler continues to heat water for heating.
The cause of a valve malfunction may be a simple blockage, for example, a piece of rust. If the problem is more serious, replace the valve with a new one. In addition, one of the simple reasons why hot water does not flow from the tap may be a clogged gas hose or gas filter.
Sectional view of a three-way valve
With heating this will not be so noticeable, but at the temperature of the water from the tap it will be more noticeable. Clean the hose and filters. Some of the points listed above may also be the causes of problems with heating and hot water in wood, electric and solid fuel (ST) boilers, provided the design details are similar.
Cats don't sleep on cold radiators.
Boiler malfunctions
Typical problems with the operation of heating equipment:
- malfunction of the built-in pump;
- the heat exchanger is clogged;
- The three-way valve does not work.
If the boiler is working and the radiators are cold, experts recommend, first of all, assessing the technical condition of the main heating element. More specifically, to establish whether the built-in device works . This part is an invariable attribute of modern equipment and is designed to increase the efficiency of its operation. Very often, after a long period of inactivity in the summer, the pump can become clogged or become covered with a layer of limescale. As a result, it does not remove the heated coolant from the heat exchanger in a timely manner. The boiler is boiling, but the radiators are cold.
It is strictly prohibited to independently repair such complex equipment as a boiler. In this case, either a specialist from the service center or a repairman with the appropriate certificate or permit is called to your home.
Experts do not recommend using ordinary tap water as a coolant, as it is hard. When the coolant temperature increases, dissolved salts settle on the heat exchanger. As a result, the following problem arises: the boiler is working, but the radiators are barely warm. Scale reduces the thermal conductivity of the heat exchanger, so the water in the circuit does not heat up, although the heating element constantly works with excessive energy consumption. You can fix the problem by changing the coolant and cleaning the heat exchanger. This video will help you understand how to clean the heat exchanger correctly:
A double-circuit boiler heats water, but does not heat the radiators. Here you need to pay attention to the serviceability of the three-way electric valve. It is responsible for switching the bypass from heating circuit maintenance mode to DHW and CO mode.
Problems with the heating circuit
The pump must be selected according to the requirements of the heating circuit.
Malfunctions in the operating mode of the heating circuit are not always associated with a malfunction of the main heating element. If the boiler works, but does not heat the batteries, the reason must be sought in the wiring itself.
List of main heating circuit malfunctions:
- the filter on the return line or the needle tap (Maevsky tap) is clogged;
- insufficient power of the circulation pump;
- the rules for installing a heating circuit with natural circulation have not been followed.
Any of the above problems must be resolved before the start of the heating season. Otherwise, the room may be left without heat for several days, since the repair involves completely draining the coolant.
So, why doesn’t the boiler heat the batteries if everything worked fine over the previous years? The reason is a dirt plug that has formed on the heating circuit filter and completely blocks the coolant flow. It can be solved simply - the water is drained from the pipes or its circulation is blocked using bypasses, and the filter is cleaned. To prevent a recurrence of such a situation, it is necessary to completely replace the coolant with parallel .
In a gravity system, the slope of the pipes is key.
The second reason why the boiler works but the radiators are cold is the insufficient power of the circulation pump. The performance of the device is not enough to pump the entire volume of coolant in a timely and efficient manner. Or the heating system in the house has branches that are located at a significant distance from the pump. As a result, the circulation pump overheats, the heating equipment operates with excessive energy consumption, and the radiators remain cold. The solution is to change the coolant pumping device to a more powerful one.
If the house has a two-pipe heating circuit with natural circulation of water, and during the heating season it is often noticed that the boiler is on and the radiators are cold, then the reason lies in non-compliance with the slope of the main line. According to regulatory documentation, only a pipe slope of 10 mm per linear meter in a heating system with natural circulation will ensure normal coolant movement. The result is uniform heating of the batteries throughout the house. If there is no slope, the coolant stagnates, which negatively affects the temperature of the radiators. The problem can be solved by completely redoing the wiring.
Why are the radiators cold when the boiler is running?
Low efficiency of the heating system can be the result of malfunctions of both the circuit itself and the main heating element. In the case of a heating device, it is necessary to pay attention to the three-way valve, the functionality of the pump and the technical condition of the heat exchanger. Typical problems for heating wiring are a clogged filter, insufficient power of the circulation pump and lack of slope of the pipes of the circuit with natural water circulation.