Preparing the host for winter pruning time. Autumn hosta care and perennial preparation for winter

Preparing hostas for winter: is it necessary or not necessary?

There is an opinion among experts that it is not necessary to prepare the hosta for winter, as it tolerates cold well.

Sometimes their advice boils down to this: "Stop feeding in August, and prepare the plant itself."

Such a simple approach to preparing hosts for winter is highly questionable.

Despite the fact that the hosta is a rather unpretentious plant, the main factor is the climatic zone in which it grows.

The further north you live, the more seriously you need to approach winter preparation.

Already in the conditions of the middle lane, preparation for the winter of the host is necessary. For the proper development and growth of the plant, comfortable conditions for wintering are necessary.

How to winterize hosta: general recommendations.

And now more about how to prepare the host for the winter.

To begin with, after the end of the flowering of the flower, we cut off the flower stalks so that the plant does not waste energy on the generation of seeds.

Feed the host in early July, and then the last time in early August. Fertilizer should not be applied later than this period so that the hosta prepares for winter in a natural way.

MULCHING. We fall asleep at the base of the bushes with dry humus, sawdust or peat. In addition to protecting the roots from freezing, such a mulch is useful for a flower in the spring as an additional organic fertilizer.

It is advisable to add tobacco dust to the mulch and treat with "phytosporin" to protect against snails and slugs. If you know that you have snails and slugs "frequent guests" and you often have to collect them manually, then this action is vital for you. After all, slugs and snails can cause serious damage to flowers in just a couple of days.

SHELTER for the winter. From above, it is recommended to cover the host for the winter with brushwood, branches or spruce branches. Such a shelter contributes to the accumulation and preservation of snow, which will reliably protect the host even from the most severe frosts.

The main thing is not to use polyethylene film, roofing felt or other moisture- and air-tight materials as shelters. So that the plant does not rot and rot.

CUTTING THE LEAVES. Most gardeners believe that leaf pruning should not be done and the plant should begin to overwinter with its leaves. Pruning the leaves in autumn makes the hosta weaker and less hardy.

It is advised to cut off old leaves in the spring, when the first shoots appear. However, many experienced flower growers insist that pruning is necessary. Only the main thing is to wait for the yellowing of the leaves and be in time before the first frost. In their opinion, pruning leaves helps rid the host of slugs and other pests.

In our opinion, if you have a hosta growing in several places, then you can try both options and determine for yourself which one suits you best.

Our editors lean more towards pruning leaves in the fall, but it is difficult for a novice grower to catch the right moment. Therefore, the second method is more suitable for experienced flower growers.

How to prepare the host for wintering: a quick guide

Pruning flower stalks after flowering

The last top dressing of hosta in early August with phosphate-potassium fertilizer.

Mulching with dry humus, peat or sawdust with the addition of tobacco dust and "phytosporin".

Additional shelter for the hosta for the winter with spruce branches, brushwood or branches.

On the account of pruning / not pruning leaves, read more above.

Autumn is not only the time for harvesting, but also the time to prepare the garden for wintering. Fans of such an interesting ornamental plant as a hosta should take into account some useful tips, thanks to which you can reliably shelter your favorite hostas from frost, as well as transplant them to new places.

Technology and timing of autumn planting hosts

Hostas can be planted either in early spring or early fall. In the latter version, the dates are selected based on the climatic features of the region: you should be sure that frosts will not occur in the next month. Landing technology is as follows:

1. First of all, it is important to decide on the place - the host loves the shade, but the lighter its leaves, the more sun the bush will need.
2. Horses must be sufficiently elastic, and their length must be at least 12 cm.
3. There should be 2-3 buds on the sprout.
4. A hole is dug according to the depth of the roots - as a rule, 30-40 cm.
5. Directly on the day of planting, it is actively watered.
6. Then drain with a layer of sand (5-7 cm).
7. Next, a mixture of peat and compost is poured into 2/3 of the volume of the pit (in equal proportions).
8. They plant a bush, straighten all the roots so that they fit tightly enough to the layer.
9. Fall asleep with fertile soil and water abundantly.
10. After 3 days, water again abundantly.

Preparing hostas for winter

Winter, especially in the Russian climate, is always a certain test for plants. However, if you take into account a few simple rules for preparing hosts for winter, you can avoid loss by almost one hundred percent.

Features and purpose of pruning hosts in the fall

Any varieties of hosts, regardless of their size, must be pruned for the winter. Although this point of view is rather contradictory (many gardeners believe that if the bush is not cut, the plant will prepare for winter on its own), nevertheless, according to the experience of many summer residents, pruning is necessary. It allows you to solve several problems:

• removal of yellowed leaves and dead shoots is always a useful procedure, allowing you to direct all water and nutrients only to healthy parts of the plant;
• pruning can significantly reduce the likelihood of damage to the green part by slugs and other pests;
• removal of flowering stems is a very important condition: if this is not done, the host will begin to spend energy on the formation of seeds, which significantly weakens the plant.

Thus, flower stalks and only yellowed leaves are removed - for this you need to wait until they completely wither. At the same time, pruning is carried out exclusively until mid-September, so that the plant has time to prepare for frost.

How to care for a host (video)

NOTE

If the cold has already set in, and the host has not been cut off, then it is advisable to carefully dig the soil around the bush, because after frost, pest eggs move from the foliage deep into the hole. If they are turned over, they will freeze in winter and die.

Autumn top dressing hosta

As for the features of fertilizing for the host in the autumn, here the point of view of gardeners is the same. Starting from mid-August, it is impossible to fertilize the bushes with any top dressing - the plants are preparing for the winter period, biological hibernation, when activity is reduced to a minimum. The only possible option is mulching with organic top dressing, however You can apply this fertilizer not earlier:

• October 15 for Central Russia (Moscow region, Volga region);
• October 25 for the southern part;
• October 1 for the Urals, Siberia and the Far East.

On the need and rules for sheltering hosts for the winter

Sheltering hostas for the winter is a mandatory and at the same time simple event. Its essence boils down to mulching and directly building a shelter. The technology is as follows:

1. First of all, it is important to carry out all work only on a dry day, when the soil is dry enough.
2. First, the lower layer of the bush is lightly sprinkled with earth, raking the soil from all sides.
3. A mixture for mulch (peat, rotted sawdust, brushwood and old grass in equal proportions) is poured out next to the root collar (under the leaves).
4. Next, tobacco dust is poured onto the bush itself, and also sprayed with any insecticide, for example, phytosporin.
5. The bush is covered with any material intended for this purpose (for example, lutrasil or spunbond).
6. Then heavy bricks or stones are placed around the perimeter.

NOTE

Polyethylene and other materials that do not allow moisture and air to pass through are not suitable for shelter. This is very dangerous for the crop, because on the one hand, the internal environment contributes to rotting and pest activity, and on the other hand, it harms the roots and leaves that lose oxygen. As a result, you can lose your favorite plants.

Hosta transplant in the fall to a new place

In general, hostas should be repotted in the spring or during the summer. However, if necessary, this can be done in the fall. In this case, you should consider 2 basic rules:

1. The host is transplanted only in the warm season - i.e. strictly in September, in advance of the first frost, so that the plants can fully adapt. You need to focus on the fact that the period of full development will take at least 1 month.
2. Although most types of hosta should be transplanted in spring or summer, there are certain varieties that are only placed in a new place in the fall. These are the Siebold variety, the Tokudama variety and all hybrid varieties derived from them.
3. Hosta is a perennial plant, and young representatives are chosen for transplantation. The optimal period for transplantation is 5 years.

How to prepare a host for winter (video)

Autumn transplant technology

The technology of reproduction, preparation of the place and the transplant itself is as follows:

1. First of all, you need to decide on the place of the future landing. Along with purely decorative considerations, it is important to consider that these plants love slightly acidic, fertile soils with a light structure. In addition, one should not forget that the place should have natural protection from the sun - weak shading from buildings or garden trees, since the host does not tolerate direct rays quite well.
2. To divide the hosta bush, it is carefully dug up and all large lumps of soil are shaken off the roots. All weak, withered roots need to be cut off - as a result, all processes should become approximately the same size.
3. After that, the rhizome is slightly incised with a sharp knife (but not completely).
4. Then the bush is broken in half by hand.
5. Holes are dug according to the size of the bush - taking into account that the roots remain in a straightened state, and the root collar is exactly on the surface. The average depth is 40-45 cm.
6. Directly on the day of planting, dug pits are plentifully watered and drained with sand (layer 5-10 cm). This is a very important condition, since the host does not tolerate waterlogging.
7. They fill the hole with sawdust and peat in equal proportions (or with a layer of fertile soil), compact it a little and water it again abundantly.
8. Finally, peat or humus mulch is created around the root collar.

NOTE

All places with cuts must be treated with ash or a solution of any fungicide.

Possible mistakes

From the experience of gardeners who have been breeding hosta for several years, it is known what are the most common mistakes when transplanting bushes. You should take them into account in advance so that all plants take root next year:

1. If the soils are clayey, contain heavy clods, simply digging them up will not be enough, because during the long caking in winter and early spring, the soil will become stale again, as a result of which air access to the roots will be difficult. Therefore, along with digging, it is important to add sawdust, sand and peat in equal mass quantities.
2. The plant is always planted in a hole quite tightly - there should not be any empty spaces between the bottom and the roots themselves.
   In this case, the roots should be straightened so that they remain in a natural position.
3. Very often, when planting a host, gardeners dig holes too close, not taking into account the characteristics of different varieties. You should immediately take into account the characteristics of a particular species and choose the distance between the holes in accordance with their ability to grow - more details in the table.

Hosta breeding methods (video)

The rules for preparing and transplanting hostas in the fall are quite simple, and at the same time they allow you to save almost all plants so that they can please the next season. In addition, changing the place of the bushes allows you to constantly embody new ideas for garden design, because the host can become a kind of center of attraction, with which almost all annual and perennial flower plants go well.

The hosta belongs to the asparagus family, although it was previously classified in the lily family. There are 23 types of hostas and about 600 varieties.

The homeland of the host is Japan and China. In their natural environment, they grow on river banks, marshy soils, and mountain slopes. They were brought to Europe in the 18th century.

The name of the hosta was given in honor of the scientist Nikolaos Fost.

Appearance

These are perennial herbaceous plants. The leaves are arranged in a basal rosette, there are many of them and they have a wide variety of shapes, colors and textures.

Peduncles are much higher than the leaves, the inflorescence is one-sided and racemose, in the form of a bell. Inflorescences are purple to white.

Light requirements

The hosta plant is shade-tolerant, which means you need to choose shaded areas of the garden. If there were none, it is necessary to provide them with shade during the hottest and sunny hours (plant a sun-loving perennial plant on the sunny side that will protect it).

Varieties with a white border and yellow spots are sun-tolerant, but varieties with a blue color will remain so only in the shade.

Watering mode

The main thing is to prevent surface watering: this is when moisture rolls off the leaves. With such watering, the roots do not receive enough moisture, and the water stagnates in the leaf outlet and causes decay or the development of fungal diseases.

Proper watering is as follows:

• water the hostas in the morning, before the bright sun;
• water them to a depth of at least 40 cm, which will nourish the lower roots;
• water consumption per bush should be at least 10 liters.
• evening watering is best avoided so as not to attract nocturnal pests.

Soils

Soils should be neutral, slightly acid rich in humus, preference is given to loams.

With a light granulometric composition (sandy loam, sandy soils), it is important to ensure the correct ratio of irrigation and fertilizers in order to prevent leaching of nutrients and at the same time not deprive the plants of moisture.

Soils with a heavy granulometric composition (heavy loams, clays) are improved by adding sand, peat, humus or rotted sawdust and leaves.

Cannot be grown on soils subject to stagnant moisture.

fertilizers

Competent top dressing of the host consists of the following:

• you can feed 3 times per season with complex fertilizers (a combination of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium): at the beginning of the growing season (May), during the formation of buds (June-July) and after it fades (August);
• fertilizer should be applied after rain or watering;
• Mulching is best avoided - it prevents the growth of dwarf varieties and is an excellent breeding ground for slugs - the main pest of the host. Mulching during autumn frosts is applicable to protect the roots of the plant.

Hosta - landing and transplant

It is best to plant hostas in the fall to avoid problems with plant storage or site preparation in the spring. Before planting, you need to inspect the plant and remove rotten roots.

The site for planting is better to choose a shaded one.

The depth of the hole is not less than 30 cm deep, the width is twice the diameter of the crown of a mature plant. The distance between the bushes: large plants - 80 cm, medium-50 cm, small 30 cm, dwarf - 15 cm.

Before planting, complex fertilizers can be applied to the holes, which will allow you not to feed the plants for the first couple of seasons.

When planting, it is important to pour fertile soil over the roots and water abundantly. The root neck is sprinkled with peat, watered every 3-4 days.

Hosta transplant

You can transplant hostas in spring or autumn. The plant is removed and the roots are placed directly with all the soil in the hole. You can not plant hostas in a place where plants of their species grew, since pests, diseases and harmful substances secreted by their predecessors remain in the soil, they will inhibit the growth of new plants.

Hosta - reproduction

Host propagation is divided into three types: cuttings, bush division and seed propagation.

cuttings

When cutting, you need to cut a leaf with a piece of rhizome “heel”, plant a hole in the greenhouse and water it abundantly. If there is no greenhouse, keep it covered with a bottle until it takes root. It is better to keep the cuttings in the shade and spray, as they are very weak at first.

The division of the bush

It is better to use this method on plants at least 3.5 years old, so as not to harm them. The plant must be dug up and divided in half, trying to damage the roots as little as possible. It is better to carry out in the spring, but if you do it in the fall, then as early as possible so that the plant has time to take root before the weather worsens.

seed propagation

When propagating with host seeds growing in your garden, you need to wait until the seed box is tied. You can cut the seed pods when they turn yellow-brown, but it is better to cut them already open. The main thing is to prevent the seeds from getting wet during rain or watering. Seeds must be dried and sown in spring. The soil where the hosts will be sown must be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate. Shoots appear after about 5 weeks.

When propagated by seeds, the plants take on a decorative appearance by the fifth year.

Hosta - flowering

Flowering hosta depends primarily on the variety, but they bloom all summer, from June to September. The flowers are bell-shaped and come in a variety of colors, depending on the variety. They can be different shades of purple, lilac and white. Flowers can reach a length of 6 to 10 cm. and When propagated by seeds, plants take on a decorative appearance by the fifth year. .

The aroma of hosta flowers can be compared with the aroma of mock orange, which our gardeners call jasmine.

Hosta - pruning

The main thing for the host is to prune the stem after flowering is over in order to prevent the formation of seeds and unnecessary expenditure of nutrients and plant strength. Prune the hosts is not required, since it has only large leaves and has no large stems.

Khosta - wintering

When preparing plants for wintering, it is necessary to mulch the soil. This can be done with rotted sawdust, beveled rotted plants or peat. Mulch can be treated with a slug repellant. It is not necessary to trim the leaves, as they themselves will rot in winter and there will be no harm to the plant.

Hosta - diseases and pests

Pests

The main pests of the host are slugs and caterpillars.

Slugs and snails leave silver-white marks on the leaves. Repellents should be used.
Caterpillars can eat the whole plant very quickly, so you need to use insecticide as soon as possible. It will not harm the plant and will protect it for a long time.

In July-August, nematodes may appear in the leaves, their presence can be seen from the brown stripes between the leaf veins. They get into the leaves from the soil. It is impossible to get rid of nematodes, as the means are too poisonous. It is necessary to destroy the plants, process the tool. The soil where the affected plants grew should be replaced with a new one.

Diseases

Virus - yellow spots and dots form on the leaves. Dig out affected plants from the soil and burn. Process tools.

Phyllosticosis - externally manifests itself in the form of large yellow-brown spots. On these spots, sporangia of the fungus are formed. The infection can persist in plant debris.

It is necessary to destroy infected leaves and spray healthy ones to prevent re-infection. Process tools.

Gray rot - the tips begin to rot, and then the entire leaf. With a weak degree of damage, spray the plants with Bordeaux liquid or other rot preparations. With a strong - destroy the plants.

Root collar rot - plants first stop growing, and then lighten and die. At the first signs, the plant should be treated - dig out, cut out damaged tissues. Burn the wounds with a fungicide. Transplant the cured plant to a new place, and on the old one, replace the soil with a new one.

Rust - dehydrates leaf tissue in hot and dry conditions. It affects yellow-edged varieties, so they should be planted in a shaded area and watered abundantly during an unfavorable period.

Note to the gardener

Is it necessary to prune hosta leaves for the winter?

Although pruning the hosta is controversial and doubtful, you can calm down. It is not necessary to do this at all. If there is no danger of contracting diseases, then this can not be done. During the winter, the leaves will rot and in the spring it will only be necessary to remove them. However, some gardeners cut the leaves precisely in order not to bother with spring work.

How to save hosts until boarding?

If you bought hosts much in advance and it’s too early to plant them, then you need to do the following:

• store in the refrigerator at a temperature not higher than 0 and not lower than 4, if the plant's buds are still sleeping, the roots should be dry;
• if the buds have already “woke up”, then it is necessary to process the plant and plant it in a pot, and plant it in the garden in the spring.

Host care video.

Hosta is a hardy plant. It is not difficult to care for him, and the variety of varieties will allow you to make a beautiful garden design. Varieties have a wide range of adaptability to light conditions, so it will not be difficult to choose your plant for every corner of the garden. It is only necessary to ensure proper watering and top dressing of plants. The main pests of the hostas are slugs, so it is important to follow two rules: do not water the hostas at night, because this is the favorite time of the slugs, and do not mulch the soil under them during the growing season, as the slugs can settle and breed in the mulch.

Hosta is a very interesting shrub. It is distinguished by peculiar lovely flowers with a strong caramel smell. But its main advantage is juicy spreading leaves. In addition, the plant grows well without sunlight, so it is often planted under trees or in other shady places in the garden. An important component of the autumn care of the host, so that next season it will again please you with its spectacular appearance, is its proper preparation for the winter, namely pruning and shelter (mulching).

Features of leaving in the fall and preparing hosts for winter: the main activities

Many gardeners say that the host does not need special preparation and specific shelter from severe drops in temperature. But this reasoning is wrong. This formulation is only suitable for plants that are grown in the southern regions.

The plant tends to bloom in July-October, depending on the type and variety, therefore initial preparation for winter involves removing buds that have faded. Such an element of care for hostas in summer and autumn is necessary so that the plant does not expend its strength on the formation of seeds and their maturation.

By the way! If your hostas do not bloom quite beautifully (of the usual variety), then you can not let them bloom at all, but cut off the flower-bearing arrows immediately after they appear.

Hosta loves moisture and abundant watering. Moreover, you need to water it correctly so that the plant does not catch a fungal infection, and more specifically, try not to get on the leaves.

By the way! The host is able to independently signal the need for its watering, namely: it lowers its leaves to the ground. Moreover, do not allow the leaves to dry out.

During the autumn months, the hosta also needs watering. The soil under it should be shed abundantly so that the entire root system is saturated with life-giving moisture before wintering. When the temperature begins to drop, watering will need to be gradually reduced, and then completely stopped.

The last nitrogen fertilization is carried out in the first half of summer for more lush green growth. Before wintering, no nitrogen fertilizers are needed anymore, because they will provoke the growth of green mass and rhizomes of the plant, because of which it can overwinter poorly, and its resistance to diseases will certainly decrease.

To better prepare the plant for winter in the autumn, it needs phosphorus and potassium., so you can feed the host, for example, with bone meal and wood ash (for lovers of organic farming) or mineral fertilizers - potassium sulfate and superphosphate (30-40 grams of each per 1 square meter of beds) or a special ready-made "autumn" fertilizer ( according to instructions).

Advice! Mineral fertilizers are best dissolved in water (in 10 liters), and organic fertilizers are simply poured around the plant and then watered.

With the onset of cold weather, the hosts should be covered, or rather mulched. Mowed grass and peat are well suited for this (they need to be mixed so that the grass does not cake).

By the way! Sawdust absorbs a lot of moisture, and in winter it can be harmful.

Even in autumn you can share and transplant hostas You can learn more about this in the next video.

Video: how to divide and transplant a host in the fall

pruning hosts autumn

The question "Should I prune the host for the winter in the fall?" - is the cause of disputes for many flower growers.

Some argue that cutting foliage is highly discouraged. After all, it contains all the nutrients that must independently pass from the green to the root of the plant. And already at the end of this process, the tops naturally die off by themselves.

Others (inexperienced flower growers) argue that it is necessary to trim the leaves of the host for the winter.

So is it necessary to prune the host in the fall for the winter?

According to most experienced gardeners, this is a rather pointless procedure that can only be performed for aesthetic (decorative) purposes, because the plant winters well with leaves.

But if you still decide to prune the host for the winter, then when should this be done?

The main signal that the plant can be cut is when the leaves turn completely yellow. This means that all the nutrients have already been safely transferred to the root system.

How to prune hostas in autumn?

Take a pruner and cut off all the leaves, leaving about 10 cm stumps.

Important! In general, pruning is best done in the spring, or rather, you can just walk with a rake and remove the foliage that has died over the winter.

Video: why you do not need to cut the hosts in the fall

Shelter hosta for the winter

Many novice amateur gardeners are thinking about whether it is necessary to cover the host for the winter. It should be said right away that in cold regions the plant is really subject to shelter. However, the essence of this shelter comes down solely to mulching the area around the bush.

In general, hostas are quite frost-resistant plants, besides, you do not need to save the aerial part, it grows again every year.

So what is the right way to cover the host for the winter?

Note! Obviously, you need to have time to mulch before the onset of frost.

Mulching (shelter) hosts in the fall should be performed in the following sequence:

• 1. Prepare the mulch itself. For example, it may consist of cut grass and peat(more). Also you can use bark or compost.

By the way! In principle, you can take the most common garden soil. But the use of grass, peat or compost will serve excellent organic fertilizer in the spring.

2. Next, mulch the plant, falling asleep on all sides with a layer of 5-10 centimeters. Just don't put mulch on top of the leaves! Another thing, if you cut the leaves, then you can pour a mound. In general, for the winter, the host should leave with leaves that will finally fall down after dying off and become an additional shelter.

Important! Such a shelter is quite enough to protect the roots of the plant from severe frosts.

As a rule, you do not need to use special non-woven covering materials, such as agrofibre or spunbond.

Advice! In early spring, be sure to remove the mulch to allow the soil to warm up better and the plant to grow faster.

Features of preparing hosts for winter in different regions

Each region has its own nuances of growing plants, in particular hosts. But as for autumn care and preparation for winter, there are differences only in the features of shelter for the winter.

Important! If you have snowless winters, then you can play it safe and additionally cover with non-woven material or spruce branches.

In the south of Russia

Hostas that are grown in the southern regions (for example, in the Krasnodar Territory) practically do not need shelter. Another thing is if you live in the Volgograd region, where there are quite strong and prolonged frosts.

The approximate timing of mulching (shelter) of the host in the southern regions is the last days of October - the first half of November.

In the Middle lane (Moscow region)

In the conditions of the Middle Stripe (Moscow Region), it is necessary to cover the host for the winter. In this case, it will be quite enough to mulch the root area with a thick layer of peat mixed with mowed grass, or use bark or compost.

Approximate terms of shelter (mulching) hostas in central Russia (Moscow region) - the end of September - the first half of October.

In the Urals and Siberia

The conditions of the Urals and Siberia are characterized by severe frosts and sub-zero temperatures. Therefore, a shelter similar to the middle lane is also needed here. At the same time, for additional warming, you can throw snow masses on the plant or immediately cover it with spruce branches.

Approximate terms of shelter (mulching) hostas in the Urals and Siberia - September.

Typical mistakes in caring for a hosta in the fall when preparing it for winter

Many gardeners, without thinking about the consequences, are able to take rash actions that can harm the plant. But improper autumn care for the host in the fall can cause quite a lot of damage to the plant.

There are several mistakes that should not be made when caring for a plant in the fall and preparing it for winter:

1. Top dressing with nitrogen fertilizers with the onset of autumn- nitrogen fertilization entails the activation of leaf growth, so the shrub will try to release young leaves, and not prepare to leave for winter rest.
2. Lack of shelter (mulching) or, on the contrary, the use of special materials for shelter, especially moisture-proof ones. The thing is that hostas winter well just under a thick layer of mulch.

Thus, the autumn care of the host is not particularly difficult. To do this, you just need to know the rules for pruning it - cut off only flower stalks at the end of summer, and do not waste your precious time on autumn pruning of foliage. Where better to do her shelter, or rather mulching.

Video: preparing hosts for winter

In contact with

Hosta is relatively unpretentious. It survives in the most shaded areas of the garden, does not require frequent watering and constant transplants. However, the most difficult time for this plant is wintering. The awakening period and the condition of the bush in the spring depend on how correct the treatment was. Pruning varieties, top dressing, pest protection - all these are important steps in caring for the host in the fall and preparing it for the upcoming winter.

Although the bush is perennial, surviving even in cold and not very snowy winters, damage is inevitable if at least minimal processing is not carried out. Trimming the entire hosta or not is a moot point for most gardeners, however, this is far from the only mandatory action that needs to be planned.

pruning

Pruning is understood as either the removal of flower stalks, or a cut of all leaves. The first must be done at the end of summer. The plant is decorative and deciduous, does not give beautiful lush buds, its flowering is extremely practical, aimed at scattering seeds. To get lush foliage, the flowers are removed immediately after the first yellow patches appear or a few days after they appear. If, nevertheless, they remained until autumn, they must be cut off before winter.

On a note!

Hosts are not cut to the root. It is necessary to leave a "leg" 5-7 centimeters long from the root.

Gardeners who are in favor of pruning refer to the fact that this way the plant has time to accumulate more juice in the roots, due to which they become more resilient and survive the winter more easily. In the spring, the bush is no longer burdened with old leaves, does not waste time dropping them, but immediately begins to grow new ones. In addition, last year's growth can cause infection with various infections, it can attract pests, this will negatively affect young greens and spoil the appearance of the host.

Opponents of pruning, in turn, remind that the leaves under a layer of snow will turn into compost. They will be a good mulch for the soil, they will bring the first nutrients that the plant needs so much in the spring. Importantly, untimely pruning of any hosta can be very dangerous. It is important that all sections have time to close before the onset of the first cold weather. If you do not carry out this procedure at all, the risk of freezing is minimal.

Professional breeders feel that preparing the hosta for the coming winter and shelter can be limited to partial pruning. This is the safest option, although full processing is acceptable. This means that only sluggish and yellow leaves, flower stalks and stems with suspected diseases can be removed, and the rest can be left. It is impossible to completely abandon this procedure, this can lead to the death of the bush.

Shelter

Hosta of any variety must be covered in autumn if temperatures drop below minus 10 degrees. This procedure is aimed at the formation of an increased snow cover, the insulation itself is not required as such. You can refuse shelter in the southern regions.

It is important to choose the right material. The bush remains “alive” even under the snow, so the roofing material, plastic film will not work: moisture will accumulate under them, the air flow will be blocked, the bush will rot. You can use:

• agrofibre;
• burlap;
• spruce branches.

First, the soil is carefully mulched, then the bush is completely covered, leaving a small “skirt” on the ground. Some gardeners increase the layers of shelter in the area where the root system is located under the soil. If the bush is sprawling, additional materials are pressed with thick branches, and the “crown” is pulled together with a tourniquet or twine. It is reliable wind protection.

In the northern regions, a multi-layer shelter is needed. Hostas are prepared for the long winter cold by covering the roots with a layer of peat, covering them with spruce branches, and protecting them with large-pore geotextile from above. After the first snowfall in any region, you need to fill the bush yourself. Thus, even with a small amount of rainfall, the host will be protected.

On a note!

Sprinkling with snow allows you to additionally moisten the soil around the plant in spring, slow down the thawing and, accordingly, protect it from severe spring frosts.

Terms of preparation

Planting and caring for a hosta in the open field is the main method for most regions. Regardless of the region, the preparation time is calculated in the same way. After pruning, top dressing and the last watering, 2-3 weeks should pass before the first frost. If all the work cannot be completed, it is better to refuse to remove the leaves and limit yourself to pruning the peduncles.

In the Moscow region and Central Russia, there is no need for a major shelter for bushes. You can limit yourself to careful mulching and pruning. You can carry out these works from mid-September to mid-October. In the Volga region, special attention should be paid to wind protection, since large bushes may not withstand such a load.

In the conditions of the climate of the Urals, it is necessary to take into account forecasts for each specific year. As a rule, snow cover appears immediately here, the first frosts begin at the end of October. Therefore, the preparation of hosts must begin in mid-September and be completed no later than the first days of October. Particular attention should be paid to mulching, the shelter can be single-layer. If, according to the forecast, a little snowy winter is expected, it is better to make several layers of protection and cover with additional snow.

Contrary to popular belief, hostas thrive in Siberian winter conditions. A thick layer of snow becomes their best protection. In areas closer to the Far East, the amount of precipitation is less, and cold winds are stronger, which should be taken into account when preparing. The best shelter option is spruce branches, which are folded after careful mulching. If severe frosts are expected, an additional bush can be showered with soil mixed with straw. In areas with a serious wind load, it is necessary to additionally use agrofibre. Preparation must be completed by mid-September so that the first frosts do not spoil the root system.

On a note!

Agrofibre is a durable material that can withstand even the strongest winds. Unlike film, it is breathable.

Milder winters occur in the Leningrad region, however, here the snow often does not linger, periodically melts until January. Therefore, it is important to carefully mulch the roots, cover and tie up the bush, especially if it is large enough and mature. All work is carried out until mid-October, it is permissible to cover the host in early November, however, pruning must be completed by the 15th of October.

Common Mistakes

Although hostas are considered among the most unpretentious, even small care errors, especially in autumn, can significantly slow down the development of the bush and its growth. Most often, the root system dies precisely because of frost, in second place is the impact of pests that are looking for food in a harsh climate. Therefore, you should avoid:

• untimely transplants;
• late pruning;
• overdrying of the soil;
• greenhouse effect.

It is undesirable to replant the shrub after the month of August. During this time, the roots will not have time to strengthen, they will be weakened, so wintering is unlikely to go well. The ideal time to move the hosta is spring. Late pruning is also undesirable, it is better to completely abandon this procedure.

After September, it is not recommended to use nitrogen fertilizers. The host should go into a kind of “hibernation” at the end of summer, accumulate juices in the root system, while nitrogen will stimulate the growth of new leaves. In frost, they will not survive, and the entire bush will be weakened. A sufficient amount of moisture is the main factor that will affect the condition of the roots of the host. If the soil is dry, wintering will be very difficult, especially for young plantings.

You can kill the entire bush by choosing the wrong covering material. The roofing material seems to be a reliable protection because of its thickness, while the film does not let cold winds through and is inexpensive. However, both lead to the creation of the greenhouse effect. Moisture accumulates inside, after which the drops can freeze, damaging the ground part of the host. Excess moisture will lead to the appearance of mold and fungi.

On a note!

Geofabrics are the best alternative to film. They can be used for several seasons in a row. Buying a large canvas will allow you to cover several bushes at once, but you will need to tie each of them.

Preliminary processing

By following the rules on how to prepare your favorite hosts for winter, you can achieve a quick spring awakening. Particular attention should be paid to top dressing, mulching and last watering. In terms of timing, you need to focus on annual forecasts and the average climate, but the general rules for pre-treatment are universal.

Watering should be gradually reduced after August. It is advisable to leave only morning moisture in the absence of natural precipitation. If the bush is located on the sunny side, you need to water it regularly before the onset of cold weather. So the roots can be saturated with moisture, become more flexible and silty. This is useful before a harsh winter. Stop watering only after shelter.

Hosts respond best to complex supplements in the fall, while all stimulant drugs should be excluded. It is optimal to fertilize immediately after watering or rain, in moist soil. In autumn, only the root method of fertilizing is left; foliar fertilizing is no longer required, since the leaves do not need to develop during this period. You can use superphosphates and potassium concentrates, 30-40 grams per 1 square meter of soil, dissolve according to the instructions.

In winter, caterpillars and beetles pose a particular danger to the bush. Slugs and snails are practically inactive during this period. You can protect yourself from all these pests using simple folk remedies. For example, before shelter, sprinkle the entire area under the crown of leaves with crushed eggshells. In the spring, this layer will be a source of calcium useful for hosts. With the awakening of the bush, one of the most dangerous pests is activated - nematodes. It is impossible to destroy them, so even before shelter, you should check the leaves. Finely chop one hosta branch, put it in a glass, pour water over it and leave it in the light for a couple of hours. After carefully consider: if there are small white worms in the water, the bush must be urgently dug up so that in the spring it does not infect the rest of the plantings.

On a note!

Mulching hostas before wintering is a must. For this, a mixture of peat, sawdust and dry humus in equal proportions is well suited. As a result, you need to get a dense layer with a thickness of at least 1 centimeter. The stronger the frost and the less snow cover, the more mulch is needed. If there are a lot of slugs and snails on the site, you need to add tobacco dust and phytosporin to the mixture. The first will protect against pests, the second from fungi carried by these creatures. In the spring, mulch will become a full-fledged fertilizer.

When determining whether it is necessary to cover hostas of any variety for the winter, how to process them, you should be guided by simple tips. Pruning is carried out only with sharp secateurs. It is unacceptable to manually cut off even yellow leaves and dry flower stalks, use blunt knives or scissors. Ragged edges do not heal for a long time, attracting pests. The bush will spend a lot of energy on their healing, which will weaken the host before winter.

Mulch is most often left under a bush after winter, but if the warming is weak, spring is late, it is better to remove this layer. So, the soil warms up, the bush will grow, it will pick up juices faster. This applies to both variegated varieties and more whimsical blue species.

Bushes are not afraid of the weight of snow, so during the winter you can throw it more than once on a shelter. The bigger the hat, the better. Although the host is not afraid of frost, she still loves warmth much more.

Proper preparation for winter is important for any variety of hosta. Compliance with simple rules will allow you to save even young bushes, the grower will be able to see rapid annual growth. Regardless of the type of pruning, be sure to pay attention to proper feeding, abundant watering. These procedures are not time-consuming, but they need to be scheduled for a certain time, depending on the region of landing.

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