Feeding for roses for flowering. The best dressings and fertilizers for roses in the garden

A blooming rose bush on the site is the dream of any summer resident. Despite the capricious disposition and sharp thorns, the rose was and remains the queen among all flowers. But in order for the plant to please the eye with lush flowers, it needs proper care. Along with the right place and timely watering, feeding roses in the spring, during the budding period, is of great importance. Fertilizers are either organic or inorganic. Before proceeding with the procedure, it is necessary to figure out when and how to properly feed these delicate flowers.

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Inorganic (mineral) fertilizers

Basically, inorganic fertilizers include salts of various metals. They enrich the soil with microelements, which favorably affects both flowering and the overall development of the plant. The lack of certain substances leads to a slowdown in growth, a small number of buds. The following substances play the greatest role for roses:

1. 1. Phosphorus. The most important micronutrient The number and size of buds and the development of the root system directly depend on its amount in the soil. Phosphorus fertilizers can be applied all year round, but in the spring, during the formation of buds, this must be done.
2. 2. Potassium. Like phosphorus, this metal affects the number of buds.
3. 3. Magnesium. It is brought in in the spring at the time of tying the buds. Directly affects the brightness of future petals.
4. 4. Nitrogen. Promotes the formation and development of green mass. With a lack of nitrogen, the rose will have strong shoots, but few flowers and leaves. You have to be careful with this stuff. It is better to fertilize roses with it in the spring, as plants saturated with nitrogen become too sensitive to cold weather. An excess of nitrogen is harmful: the resistance of the crop to pests and diseases decreases, and the flowering time is delayed. Therefore, nitrogen-containing top dressing is done only twice: in spring and summer, but in no case later than the first half of August.
5. 5. Iron. Serves for the prevention of chlorosis in flowers. You can apply iron-containing top dressing throughout the year.

It is advisable to feed young plants more with organic matter, while mature bushes need mineral supplements.

The names of the most commonly used fertilizers in cottages or gardens:

1. 1. Carbamide (urea). source of nitrogen. Apply in a diluted form, pouring rose bushes with a solution.
2. 2. Potassium nitrate (potassium nitrate). Source of potassium and nitrogen. To prepare the solution, you need 10 g of fertilizer per bucket of water.
3. 3. Ammonium nitrate (ammonium nitrate). The most popular nitrogen-containing fertilizer. It is highly soluble in water, so it is advisable to prepare a nutrient solution and water the flowers with it.
4. 4. Nitrophoska. Source of phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen. It is used in dissolved form: 10 g of top dressing per bucket of water.
5. 5. Azofoska. Like the previous version, a source of potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen, but in slightly different concentrations of active ingredients. To feed the roses, you will need to prepare a solution.
6. 6. Nitroammophoska. A source of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, an improved formula of nitrophoska or azofoska. In this fertilizer, nutrients are presented in the most digestible forms. Top dressing should be applied dry to the soil before the snow melts.
7. 7. Superphosphate. source of phosphorus. It is used diluted (10 g per 10 liters of water).
8. 8. Potassium sulfate. Source of potassium.

Iron sulphate was previously recommended as an additional source of iron. But in it, the metal very quickly passes into a form that is not absorbed by roses. Therefore, it is best to use a complex fertilizer containing iron in its composition. The same applies to magnesium. The lack of these trace elements can be seen in the condition of the leaves: they become thin and turn yellow.

organic fertilizers

Often gardeners are too fond of complex top dressing, forgetting about folk remedies. However, it is organic fertilizers that most fully enrich the soil, acting much softer. Organics reduce the number of weeds and attract earthworms, which loosen the soil and enrich it with oxygen.

The best effect is achieved by the simultaneous use of organic and inorganic fertilizers. Mineral top dressing is the main food, while organic matter helps them to be absorbed. Experienced gardeners first apply mineral fertilizers, and then water with organic fertilizers.

Use:

1. 1. Chicken manure. Such top dressing is recommended to be carried out twice a year: in early spring, during the period of active development, and during flowering. Chicken manure can burn the roots, so do not exceed the dosage or apply pure manure to the soil. To prepare a nutrient solution, you need to dilute fresh litter with water in a ratio of 1:20, and rotted - 1:10 and leave to infuse for five days. The resulting infusion is again mixed with water in a ratio of 1:3.
2. 2. Cow dung. To prepare the solution, pour it with water in a ratio of 1:10. Leave for a week to infuse, and then dilute again with water in a ratio of 1: 2. It is better to start feeding roses when it is already warm. In cold weather, nutrients are poorly absorbed.
3. 3. Infusion of weeds. Such fertilizers can be used as an additional source of organic matter. Fill a bucket or any other container with 75% finely chopped tops, cut weeds or any other greens. Add two to three tablespoons of soda ash and pour into a container of water: 2/3 of the total volume. Leave for at least a week until the infusion ferments well. Strain and dilute with water in a ratio of 3:10. Spray the rose bushes with the resulting liquid. The infusion should not be prepared during the insemination of weeds.
4. 4. Peat and humus. Top dressing with peat or compost is done in the fall, before covering the plants for the winter. Spread organic matter around the bushes, this will speed up the development of the root system for the next year.

Cow and chicken droppings will be especially useful for young plants: the root system will develop faster.



rose feeding schedule

For lush flowering, top dressing should be carried out at least twice a year: in spring, during the period of active growth, and in autumn, in order to restore strength and enrich the soil for the next year. Roses can be fed more often, especially with solutions containing phosphorus.

An approximate fertilizer application schedule is shown in the table:

Feeding time	Fertilizer
Early spring, just after the snow has melted	For the first spring feeding of a young plant, you need to take organic matter, for example, chicken droppings or cow dung. Adult bushes will benefit from ammonium nitrate (20-30 g per 1 square meter of soil)
May	Fertilizers with phosphorus and potassium, for example, superphosphate and potassium sulfate (10 g of each substance per 10 liters of water). You need to make it under the root, you can together, you can separately. Needed to ensure abundant flowering
June	Repeat feeding with potassium and phosphorus
July	Repeat potash and phosphorus top dressing, plus you can add organic matter to it: 500 g of chicken manure. Useful in July will be fertilizer nitrophoska (nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus) - 10 g per 10 liters of water
July	To normalize the acidity of the soil, it will be useful to add wood ash (a source of potassium): 100 g per 10 liters of water for root dressing and 200 g per 10 liters for spraying. Top dressing with ashes can be carried out only in the second year from the moment of transplantation.

Mineral fertilizers can not be dissolved in water, but scattered around the bush on the soil in a dry form. After that, you need to slightly loosen the earth with a chopper.



Application methods

There are two main ways to apply fertilizer:

• foliar;
• root.

Foliar top dressing is carried out by spraying the leaves of the plant. The effect of it is achieved almost immediately, since the fertilizer is absorbed very quickly. Both organic and inorganic fertilizers can be applied in this way. Spray the rose with a nutrient solution in the morning or early evening, when the sun has not yet set. During the day, at night or at dusk, moisture on the leaves is undesirable. The droplets of water remaining overnight will not have time to evaporate and provoke infection with a fungus. In the scorching sun, the plant will get burned when the rays pass through the water.

But the most effective are basal top dressing, that is, the application of fertilizers directly to the soil. There are several ways:

1. 1. Watering the bush with a fertilizer solution.
2. 2. Application of dry fertilizer under the bush.
3. 3. Fertilizing the soil around the plant. To do this, a shallow groove is dug around the stem in the form of a circle with a radius of 15 cm. Fertilizers mixed with black soil must be placed in it and sprinkled with earth. During rain or watering, fertilizers will dissolve, gradually enriching the soil with nutrients.

Fertilizers should not be applied to dry soil, since there is a high risk of burning the root system.

Feeding roses in autumn

Abundant flowering takes a lot of strength and nutrients from the rose bush. To restore them, autumn top dressing is necessary after flowering. Then the next year the plant will delight with beautiful, lush flowers.

Contribute:

1. 1. Phosphorus fertilizer. Prepare a mixture of 16 g of monophosphate and 15 g of superphosphate and dissolve in 10 liters of water.
2. 2. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizer. In 10 liters of water, dissolve one tablespoon of superphosphate and potassium sulfate.
3. 3. Yeast top dressing. For 10 liters of warm water, take two tablespoons of sugar and 10 g of dry yeast. After two hours, add another 50 liters of water and water the roses.

Starting from August-September, you should not apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers. They will increase the amount of greenery, and the rose will not have time to prepare for wintering. But phosphorus and potassium can even be added twice, in October and November.

Yeast leaches potassium from the soil, so after fertilizing with yeast, you need to sprinkle the ground around the bush with ash or water the plant with a solution of ash.

Complex preparations

The undoubted advantage of complex fertilizers is their ease of use and the fact that all the substances necessary for the plant are collected in one bottle.

The most popular ready-made fertilizers for roses and the features of their use are presented in the table:

Regardless of what fertilizer is used, the measure must be observed. Too much top dressing can worsen the composition of the soil and cause a plant burn. Restoring the properties of soil spoiled by fertilizers will take a lot of time and effort.

A well-groomed rose garden is the pride of every grower. Fresh buds, with a cocoon of tight petals on strong stems, are pleasing to the eye, and a delicate delicate aroma only adds charm to the flowers. In order for those who have overwintered to please with violent flowering, it is necessary to properly care for the plantings and apply fertilizers in a timely manner. It is about fertilizers for roses in the spring that will be discussed in this article.

When fertilizing roses in spring

Fertilize planting roses begin in early spring, immediately after the snow melts. It is impossible to accurately name the period of this top dressing, because the climate in the country is very different. In the south, the snow melts already in March, and in the northern regions, snowdrifts can lie until April. Plants that have received additional nutrition in a timely manner will delight with lush fragrant roses.

A detailed schedule for applying spring dressings for roses is presented below:

Timing	organic fertilizers	Inorganic fertilizers
After the snow melts	Under the plants, mullein or chicken manure is applied in liquid form, ammonium nitrate in dry form (20-30 g per 1 m2)
		Superphosphate and potassium are added with water under the root of each plant. Dissolve in 10 liters of water, 10 g of the substance.
		Repeatedly give phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, dissolving 10 g of the nutrient composition per 10 liters of water.
	An infusion of chicken manure, mullein or grass green manure.	Nitrophoska 10 g per 10 liters of water. Ash - top dressing is applied in liquid form, dissolving 100 g per 10 liters of water. An ash solution (200 g per 100 g of water) is used as a foliar top dressing for adult plants that have already overwintered in the garden.

Important! Do not fertilize garden roses on dry soil. Before adding nutrients, you should water the flower beds for about a day.

What fertilizers affect what

Everyone knows that luxurious bright flowers form on rose bushes when the plant receives enough phosphorus, but this does not mean that other dressings should be canceled.

Phosphorus compounds can be applied from autumn, superphosphate granules do not burn the roots and dissolve very slowly, so the plant has time to absorb phosphorus in the required quantities before flowering. Phosphorus is responsible for flowering - this spring dressing for roses is an essential component in the formation of buds, bright colors of flowers and a long flowering period.

The second most important - top dressing of roses is carried out with nitrogen, which stimulates the growth of green mass. After winter, nitrogen compounds help the fastest growth of leaves, affect the number of productive shoots, the density and intensity of leaf color.

Recipe for the preparation of nutritional compositions from organic matter:

Name of composition	Breeding and application
Poultry droppings (chickens)	Fresh chicken manure is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:20, old - 1:10. The solution is infused in a shady place for at least 3 days, then 1 hour of infusion is diluted in 3 parts of water and rose bushes are watered.
	Dilution in water 1:10, insist nutrient infusion for about 5-7 days, dilute the finished composition for irrigation in a ratio of 1:2.
Green manure	Weeds are used until seed pods form on the grass. The crushed raw materials are placed in containers, filled with water and kept for up to 10 days, after which they are diluted in a ratio of 1:10 with water, the liquid is used for irrigation.

Potassium is a special substance that plays an important role in the life of roses - its deficiency affects the proper nitrogen and carbohydrate metabolism. Potassium starvation can affect the wintering of roses - bushes underfed with potassium easily freeze out in severe frosts, and in summer they do not tolerate drought and heat. In addition, potassium increases the resistance of roses to a number of infectious diseases, especially fungal ones: downy mildew, rust, black spot.

Potassium deficiency can be identified by the following symptoms:

1. Drying of the edges of the leaf blade - burn.
2. Massive yellowing and wilting of leaves.
3. Acquired fragility of shoots.
4. Change in young leaves - deformation of the leaf blade, the appearance of blackness on crushed leaves.
5. The fading of the development of buds, the cessation of flowering.

If you notice these symptoms on roses, urgently apply potash fertilizers to the flower bed. Feeding in dry form is less effective, nutrients will not soon reach deep-lying roots, so potassium is best applied under roses in liquid form. An overdose of potassium is not recommended.

In addition to fertilizing with basic compounds (N, P, K), in spring, roses need to be applied with microelements in the form of root or foliar top dressing. Liquid formulations are sprayed on the leaves in the evening or morning, while it is undesirable to get on the delicate rose petals, on which ugly spots remain, or are applied under the root.

Name of trace elements	How is the deficit manifested?	What to feed
Calcium (Ca)	The apical leaves are deformed, the root system dies off, shoots grow.	It will help to get rid of the lack of calcium - calcium nitrate, which is diluted with water in the proportion of 1 tbsp. per 10 l.
Magnesium (Mg)	Discolored spots appear on the leaves, then yellow-red areas form between the veins, the leaves fall off.	Magnesium deficiency can manifest itself in areas with high soil acidity. It is required to add magnesium sulfate or ash under the rose bushes.
Iron (Fe)	Leaf blades turn yellow, green areas remain around the veins (deficiency). Excess iron also causes chlorosis.	To get rid of it is worth using iron chelate, Kemiru-station wagon. Avoid foods that contain calcium.
Molybdenum	Falling flowers and buds	Apply for processing fertilizers containing molybdenum.

Roses should be fed with compounds that contain zinc, boron, copper, sulfur and manganese - such care will have a positive effect on the growth of bushes, as well as violent lush flowering. You can use ready-made cocktails of microelements for feeding, for example - Humat 7+.

Your personal assistant and consultant in any situation!

A rose without top dressing is a frail bush with a small amount of the same flowers. Even novice flower growers understand this and fertilize the soil with the preparations at hand. But where is the guarantee that the available chemistry and organics will be enough for the plantings, or vice versa - more than necessary. Without an understanding of what exactly to feed the shrub and when, of course, there are no guarantees.

What fertilizers are needed for a rose

The time of application and the amount of useful substances are important points, but first you need to decide on the “range”. The first dressing of roses in spring, intermediate in summer and last in autumn, are effective only if they have all the substances necessary for a particular season that contribute to the correct and full development of the shrub. What's this?

Nitrogen- "growth stimulator", helps to "make" the bushes strong, chic with a lot of fresh green leaves. First of all, it is needed at the beginning of the season and, if necessary, in the summer. In excess inhibits flowering. Nitrogen is not fed in autumn, since the plant should enter a state of rest, not growth, in winter.

Phosphorus- strengthens the root system and shoots, improves the formation of buds, roses bloom better and "smarter". As an independent substance, it is definitely necessary, but the maximum benefit from phosphorus can be obtained by using it together with potassium.

Potassium- a useful "additive" to phosphorus. By itself, it increases immunity, the bushes get sick less.

Iron- a "preventive" remedy for chlorosis - a leaf disease that can turn a beautiful green shrub into a yellow "wall".

Magnesium- more than needed during the formation of buds. It cannot be said that its lack will destroy the flowering "on the vine", but without magnesium, a rose will not be a rose in the full sense of the word.

There are several more “smaller” substances that help the shrub become beautiful and healthy. Nobody makes them separately, but if you use mineral, especially complex fertilizers plus organic matter, all of them will be present to one degree or another.

How to properly feed a rose

In the case of fertilizers, the word “correctly” implies both the time of work, both by day and by time of day, and the method of application, and what can be done and what to beware of. It cannot be said that non-compliance with any of the rules will entail irreversible consequences, it is unlikely that it will be possible to grow a truly healthy and beautiful rose. How to do everything right?

1. In the spring, the bushes are fed for the first time immediately after opening, but the air temperature should be at least plus 10 ° C.

2. If this is not due to the instructions, fertilizers are applied a maximum of 5 times during the entire season.

4. Fertilization must be combined with irrigation. First, half the water is poured under the bush, then the solution, and the second half on top. Moreover, chemistry and organics are poured not under the very trunk and not nearby, but at a distance of about 15-20 centimeters into a groove dug in a circle.

5. During a particular drought, plantings are watered with clean water, fertilizers are not used.

6. Cold water for irrigation is unacceptable, the rose is sick.

7. It is impossible to apply fertilizers under the root or spray on the leaves at dusk. Stagnation of water in the cool time of the day provokes the appearance of fungal diseases. It's time to work - as soon as the sun begins to set over the horizon.

8. In broad daylight, they also do not spray. First, you can burn the leaves. Secondly, in the sun, most drugs lose their beneficial properties.

9. When it gets colder, preference is given to foliar top dressing, since water is absorbed into the ground slowly, again stagnates, the plant receives less useful substances. Liquid feeding is completed in the second half of August - early September.

10. Once again, nitrogen fertilizer for roses in the fall is not “offered” in any form to plantings. Any other before winter is brought in in a dry form.

Last but not least, add-on. It is good when there is an opportunity to mulch the soil. Another light long-acting fertilizer will appear, and you don’t have to think about weeds.

How to feed a rose in spring

After reading the rules, you can proceed directly to seasonal work.

Top dressing of roses begins in spring with, since the beginning of the season is the time of growth, and a tall shrub is needed for good flowers. A liter of urea solution (a tablespoon diluted in a bucket of water) is poured under the bush after the rose has been pruned, but warm. At the same time, if there is such a need, cuttings can be prepared and planted. There will be another benefit from spring work.

A week later, a solution of complex diammophos is added under plants at the age of 3 years or 1 teaspoon per 5 liters of water. But for young plants, chemistry is undesirable.

Last year's and two-year-old seedlings are fed with organic matter. It can be both, and slurry. The first is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10, the second - 1:20. Leave for fermentation for a week, dilute twice before use. Organics are also very useful for adult roses.

Attention!
Bird droppings, as well as fresh manure without processing, are not accepted into the soil. In the worst case, unweathered ammonia will burn out the root system, the rose will die. If you are "lucky", the bush will remain, but will stop in development.

Of the most famous complex fertilizers for roses, "Pokon", "", "Fasco", "", "" have proven themselves well. If there is no complex, in addition to organic matter, ammonium nitrate is added, under a bush 2 tbsp. spoons, again on a bucket of water.

At this very time, along with organic fertilizers, it is recommended to feed the shrub separately with phosphorus. For example, it fits perfectly. Under 1 bush in a groove to a depth of about 10 centimeters close up 2 tbsp. spoons of powder, enough for a year. Acidic soil, on which plantain, horse sorrel, horsetail, wood lice grow, is deoxidized with ash, 1 glass per 1 planting. Folk remedies for feeding roses are yeast and onion peel. No harm, good for the plant.

Yeast recipe.
A small pack of fresh yeast (50 g) and a teaspoon of sugar are dissolved in a liter of water. Fertilize after 2 hours.

Onion recipe.
A liter of husk is boiled for 15 minutes in 5 liters of water. Defend until cool, the solution is ready.

When using fertilizers of different types on the same day, you need to take one thing. Let's say today chemistry or organics, in the interval between their application and flowering, a home remedy is applied. If you pour everything together, something will destroy something.

Spring dressing for roses: video

Summer top dressing of rose bushes

How to fertilize a rose before flowering

Top dressing is obtained, as it were, intermediate, at the same time, it is important for obtaining beautiful varietal flowers. Just in the summer, it is convenient and profitable to combine root and foliar top dressing. Just before flowering, plantings are sprayed with a solution of urea, 1 tbsp. spoon for 5 liters of water. As a natural top dressing, you can take "Sodium Humate". In fact, as it were, a growth accelerator, at the same time, roses bloom more friendly and brighter. There is no need to invent anything by quantity, instructions are attached. Of the chemicals to improve flowering, a solution of potassium sulfate and 1 teaspoon per 5 liters of water is offered.

How to feed a rose after flowering

After the completion of early flowering, that is, in summer, if the shrub develops normally and does not look drooping, nitrogen fertilizers are excluded. To maintain a little “developed” bush and to help the second wave of flowering, you can start with natural dressings.

Castor oil.
Not the easiest top dressing, since 1 teaspoon of oil must be dissolved in 1 liter of water. However, if you take well warm water, pour the solution into a bottle before use, and shake the bottle all the time during watering, an emulsion is obtained.

Milk.
Half a glass of milk per liter of water, that's top dressing. The rose is watered: once with diluted milk, once with pure water.

But plantings are not content with single natural dressings. For a vigorous state, plants need to be stimulated with stronger drugs. Alternatively, it could be...

Recipe 1:
- bird droppings - 0.5 l;
- plus nitrophoska - 2 teaspoons;
- diluted in 10 liters of water.

Recipe 2:
- magnesium sulfate - 1 teaspoon;
- potassium sulfate - 2 teaspoons;
- water - 10 l.

It is better to feed a tired, drooping rose with something complex with a full range of minerals. Without the support of the second flowering on the "worked out" bushes may not be.

Fertilizers for roses in summer: video

How to feed a rose in autumn

If it’s not or, everything you need is laid in the soil immediately and once, you will need 2 autumn top dressings.

First autumn root liquid top dressing

Held around the beginning of September. While it is warm, it is not dangerous to pour fertilizer for roses in the fall. The liquid will be absorbed, the earth will dry out. For the first time, you can take, at your choice, based on 10 liters of water.

Recipe 1:

- potassium monophosphate - 1 tbsp. a spoon.

Recipe 2:
- superphosphate - 1.5 tbsp. spoons;
- potassium sulfate - 2 teaspoons.

Under 1 bush enough 4 liters. Phosphorus with potassium will well prepare the bushes for wintering, there will be less losses even during severe frosts.

Second fall dressing

The second time before the very frosts, the solutions are not used, frozen water for the roots is of little use. Therefore, at the beginning of autumn, fertilizers are poured, and just before winter, they are buried in the soil dry or fed on a leaf.

For the second winter dressing, it is often recommended to use the same substances, only in dry form. Maybe so, but why, after a short period of time, feed the same plant again with the same one. It is better to lay a third of a bucket of humus in the ground around the rose in a circle, mulching everything with compost or peat. Organics will make more sense.

The following advice is not without meaning: before winter, spray the plants with hot, up to 65 ° C, a solution of superphosphate or ash. On a bucket of water first - 2.5 tbsp. spoons, the second - 2/3 liter jars.

As for top dressing for the first time, the listed fertilizers are quite enough. At will, something can be reduced, some substances can be added, but in the main thing - the amount of drugs introduced - it should be mandatory. In extreme cases, it is better to apply less than to give a large dose.

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Rose bushes in my garden plot are my pride. I devote a lot of time to caring for them, but the luxurious flowering of my roses is worth it. In the middle of summer, glossy leaves on elastic stems and a huge number of buds and open flowers attract the eyes of all passers-by.

However, roses owe their luxurious flowering not only to their care, loosening and watering, but also to the timely application of the necessary fertilizers.

Top dressing is a very important component of caring for roses, and if you apply the wrong fertilizer or not apply it at all, your roses will not delight you with abundant flowering. Therefore, it is very important to know how to feed roses in order to achieve the desired result.

Roses are real gourmets, and this flower is quite difficult to “overfeed”. The main thing is to apply exactly the fertilizer that the roses require in a specific period of time. In spring and summer, plants require top dressing with different compositions.

First of all, it is very important to remove shelter from roses in a timely manner. If this is done too early, the flower may suffer from spring frosts, and if it is late, the roses will begin to rot, and it will be difficult to save them. Therefore, remove the shelter as soon as the frosts recede, but do it gradually.

After the snow has melted, even before the shelter is removed, you can add a solution of ammonium nitrate under the bushes, this composition will facilitate adaptation to the roots.

First, the ends of the shelter are opened, then the spruce branches, the film are removed, and lastly, peat and mulch are raked from the roots. That's it, your plant is ready to grow. The shelter should be completely removed by about mid-to-late April, depending on the region. One of the main indicators - the temperature during the day should not be lower than 10 degrees Celsius.

In about a week and a half, a rose that has come out of winter will begin to bud. And then you will see which shoots are frozen, despite your care, and which ones will grow.

At this time, you need to do a light spring pruning, which is called cosmetic - it consists precisely in pruning dried and frozen stems and shortening them to living tissue.

After that, the soil under the bushes must be properly loosened. It is not necessary to water the rose yet, there is enough moisture in the ground in spring. In spring, the rose is fertilized twice:

• the first time you need to fertilize roses in May. In the country at this time it is usually quite dry and warm, and it's time to deal with flowers. I usually use a solution of mullein for the first feeding, which I apply directly under the roots by watering from above, or humus. You can also use nitrogen fertilizers, roses respond well to them in early spring. In spring, fertilizers containing nitrogen are generally preferred for roses.
• after about three weeks, that is, the beginning of June, top dressing must be repeated. By this time, the bushes should already be watered, doing this in the early morning or evening to avoid burns. Watering should be carried out with warm settled water, it is best to use rainwater.

How to feed roses in the summer

In June, directly during the budding period, the rose especially needs fertilizers. At this time, your plant should be fed with any complex rose fertilizer that is sold in a flower shop. Depending on the type of fertilizer, you need to act according to the instructions.

It is very important to observe the proportions if the drug should be diluted with water, otherwise the roots can simply be burned. The only thing you can’t overdo is with organic matter, humus, peat and rotted manure can be applied without fear of damaging the plant.

Roses prefer liquid fertilizers, and they need to be applied at the rate of 3 - 5 liters per bush, depending on the age of the plant.

Top dressing during the formation of buds is very important; in no case should this component of rose care be neglected.

Roses should be poured at this time plentifully, as the surface of the earth under the bushes dries up. You can mulch the soil to avoid moisture loss. This is especially important to do if you rarely visit your site. The soil should not be allowed to dry out, roses do not like this. This is harmful to their growth and detrimental to flowering.

If you apply fertilizer for roses in the form of granules to the soil, be sure to combine top dressing with watering - first you need to water the bushes and let the moisture dry a little, then loosen the ground, and after that add granules, trying not to touch the leaves. With this method of applying solid fertilizers, the roots of the flowers will not be affected.

Starting from the end of July, roses should not be fed with nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen contributes to rapid vegetation, and at the end of summer it is already useless, roses may simply not have time to prepare for winter, which is fraught with their death.

And we repeat once again - in no case do not change the composition and size of the doses recommended by fertilizer manufacturers, otherwise you can ruin your flowers.

Immediately before flowering, when the buds begin to bloom, you should once again feed the bushes with mullein, more precisely, with its liquid solution. Organics are very necessary for roses at this time for flowering.

Feeding roses in autumn

Feed your roses at least twice more in the fall before you start preparing them for winter dormancy:

• at the very end of August or at the beginning of September, superphosphate must be added to the soil - this is the best fertilizer that can please a rose in the fall. Potassium salt is also suitable for the penultimate feeding. At this time, you can add ash under the rose bushes, it also contains the microelements necessary for the plant. Potassium increases the resistance of the flower to any disease, from decay to infections and fungi, and phosphorus accelerates the growth of foliage and root systems. Therefore, the complex introduction of these components will have the most beneficial effect on your roses.
• Toward the end of September, and in warm regions - in October, this procedure must be repeated. Everything, this is the last dressing, you don’t need to fertilize more roses.

After applying the last fertilizer, you should reduce watering, loosen the soil less and not stimulate the growth of new shoots in any other way - for example, do not prune roses too early.

If you cut the bushes in warm weather, before frost, or at least before a significant drop in temperature, the rose will begin to actively produce new shoots that will definitely die in winter, because they will not have time to get stronger in a short period of warm autumn.

There are a few more tips for feeding roses and proper fertilization that will help you achieve lush flowering:

• if the weather is cold or rainy, or both, then it is better not to fertilize under the roots, but to spray the shoots and leaves directly. This will stimulate the plant and cause it to produce new shoots;
• foliar top dressing with manure diluted in a bucket of warm water contributes to the prevention of diseases, especially fungal ones, to which roses are highly susceptible;
• after pruning, as well as in too rainy or, conversely, too dry weather, Epin will be useful for roses, who need to spray the bushes;
• if your roses bloom and grow beautifully even without top dressing, then you have chosen a good place for them and the soil in your area is rich in nutrients. In this case, in the early years, you can safely confine yourself to organics, and not use any chemistry. Water the bushes with mullein or a solution of chicken manure, spray them, water them, weed them, and your roses will thank you with abundant flowering.

How to feed a rose in winter

This advice is especially relevant for rose lovers who live in cold regions:

• in late autumn, before proceeding directly to the construction of a shelter over your roses, remove a thin layer of earth from under the roots of the bush and pour a little humus or peat there, about the same thin layer;
• then cut out a large circle from any cardboard box so that in size it can completely cover the root system from above. Cut a hole in the circle for cut shoots and put it on top of the rose bush. The cardboard should be above the roots of the rose, and the shoots should stick out of a small hole cut inside;
• then sprinkle the cardboard with a layer of soil, pour a thick layer of manure, peat or humus on top of this soil, and another thick layer of earth on top of it. And from above, start building a winter shelter for your roses.

This procedure perfectly replaces the hilling of rose roots for the winter and protects them from freezing. In addition, during the winter months, the cardboard in the ground will simply rot, and your rose bushes will begin to feed as soon as the first warm days come and the layers of earth and organic fertilizer begin to thaw and penetrate to the roots.

After you remove the winter shelter in the spring, all you have to do is loosen or carefully dig the soil under the bushes, and organic fertilizer will serve not only as an excellent heating for the roots, but also as a wonderful top dressing for the plant.

It will protect the roots from spring frosts if you hurry to remove the shelter, and from drying out in case of a shortage of spring rains.

Your roses will be very grateful to you for your care and the result will not keep you waiting.

In the choice of fertilizers, each rose grower follows his own principles: one uses only organic matter, the other uses mineral fertilizers, someone introduces “mineral water”, and then sheds it with a solution of organic matter. How to properly feed roses and what fertilizers to use?

Mineral or organic fertilizers are best for roses

organic top dressing

They contain nitrogen, with a reasonable approach they do not harm the structure of the soil. They are introduced during the period of growth and flowering, during the autumn digging of the soil. During the preparation of plants for winter, organic top dressing is not given to roses.

Mineral supplements

They act purposefully and quickly, but they can saline the soil and inhibit the root system of plants.

As a golden mean, mineral and organic fertilizers are often recommended to be combined. It is convenient to use complex organo-mineral fertilizers, in which the quantitative ratio of elements is observed.

Natural organic fertilizers for roses

Organic fertilizers include manure, compost, low-lying peat (high-moor peat, as a rule, is used for mulching and protected ground), green manure plants, infusions of fermented herbs.

How to use manure to feed roses

"Dung for a long time remained the main fertilizer. Cow manure is dense and slowly decomposes, horse manure is porous, it contains more nutrients, and, accordingly, its consumption rate is less. Bird droppings are fast-acting, contain nutrients in a more concentrated and easily accessible form for plants. It is undesirable to use fresh manure: it causes increased growth of green mass, increases the sensitivity of roses to diseases and pests, moreover, it can burn the roots. For top dressing, rotted manure is used or fresh infusions are prepared. Chicken manure is diluted in water at the rate of 1:20, cow - 1:10. The mixture is kept for 7-10 days in the open air. Before use, the mullein is diluted by half, the infusion from the litter - in a ratio of 1:3.

How can you use kitchen waste to feed roses?

„Kitchen waste have long been adapted by gardeners for compost fertilizers, the most advanced use biohumus (vermicompost). In this case, organic matter is processed by earthworms, as a result, the content of humates increases compared to the introduction of rotted manure.

Humic preparations for feeding roses

“Preparations based on humic substances obtained from oxidized brown coal (leonardite), peat, sapropel, and microbiological preparations containing microorganisms are becoming more and more popular. already created conditions for the life of microorganisms.

The use of wood ash for feeding roses

wood ash- available organic fertilizer, contains potassium, calcium, magnesium, iron, phosphorus, sulfur. It is used in the form of a solution (30 g per 10 liters of water) and in dry form (200 g per 1 sq. M), embedded in the soil.

Mineral fertilizers for roses

When buying mineral fertilizers, pay attention to the composition of the drug. Roses need not only nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium, but also trace elements such as iron and magnesium. Iron provides a beautiful saturated shade of flowers, magnesium - leaves, with a lack of these trace elements, plants develop chlorosis. Recently, long-acting mineral fertilizers have been popular, which are applied once in the spring. These are granules in a special shell, of which nutrients evenly enter the soil over several months. Typically, the concentration of NPK in such fertilizers is high, but the release of substances is gradual under the influence of temperature, water and light.

Rules for fertilizing roses

“Before fertilizing with mineral fertilizers and after it, the soil is shed abundantly. “In cold weather, it is better to do foliar top dressing on leaves and shoots: infusion of mullein, bird droppings, herbs, sodium humate, complex mineral fertilizers.

“If in spring the temperature does not rise above +5 ° C, you should not rush: the soil is not warmed up, fertilizers will be absorbed slowly and can even harm roses that do not yet strive to grow. It is recommended to wait for a temperature of +10...+15 °С. „

It is quite possible to grow roses on one organic matter;

Top 5 Seasonal Rose Feeds

When caring for roses, rely not only on recommendations and advice, but also on your own intuition. Watch the development of the plant and apply fertilizer only in accordance with its life cycle. The first year, subject to the rules of planting (filled with organic planting pit, mulching), roses are not fed. Further (from the autumn or spring of next year) follow the feeding scheme according to the phases of rose development.

FIRST FEEDING OF ROSES (APRIL)

After spring pruning of roses, in the stage of bud swelling - in mid-April or, if the spring is cold, at the end. During the period of intensive growth, roses need nitrogen, therefore, nitrogen fertilizers or complex mineral fertilizers with a high content of this substance are most often applied. Before fertilizing, it is recommended to spill the soil with warm water so that it warms up and the root hairs begin to work.

Introduction of organic matter under roses: 3 kg of rotted manure or 100 g of bird droppings per rose bush.

: 25-30gsm m of ammonium nitrate (in this form, nitrogen is absorbed faster than in nitrate), or 30-40 g of complete mineral fertilizer or universal fertilizer with trace elements. In liquid form - 1 tbsp. l. one of the above fertilizers per 10 liters of water, consumption - 3-4 liters per rose bush.

Supporters of the combined approach, after applying dry mineral fertilizers, shed roses with organic solutions, consumption - 3-5 liters of infusion of mullein, bird droppings, herbs per bush.

SECOND FEEDING OF ROSES (MAY)

The beginning of shoot growth is in the first decade - mid-May. At this time, shoots begin to grow actively, and roses need nitrogen. In addition, April fertilizers applied can be easily washed out by spring rains or poorly absorbed in cold soil.

Introduction of organic matter under roses: 3-5 liters of mullein solution.

Application of mineral fertilizers for roses: 10-15 g/sq. m of ammonium nitrate, 25-30 g/sq. m superphosphate, 10-15 g/sq. m of potassium salt.

THIRD FEEDING OF ROSES (END OF MAY-BEGINNING OF JUNE)

During the budding period - the end of May - the beginning of June. Roses are fed with calcium nitrate (calcium nitrate helps form green mass and protects against rot) - 1/2 tbsp. l. on bushes they pour infusions of organic fertilizers in the same proportions as before.

Introduction of organic matter under roses: 3-5 liters of a solution of mullein or bird droppings, foliar feeding of roses.

Application of mineral fertilizers for roses: 15-20gsm m of ammonium nitrate, 30-40 g/sq. m superphosphate, 10-15 g/sq. m of potassium sulfate, potassium nitrate or potassium magnesia. Potassium is responsible for the formation of beautiful flowers.

FOURTH FEEDING OF ROSES (JULY)

After the first flowering of roses (during flowering, roses are not fed). Roses are fed with a complete complex fertilizer with trace elements (with sufficient potassium and phosphorus).

Introduction of organic matter under roses: About 100 g of compost.

Application of mineral fertilizers for roses: 40-50gsm m of superphosphate, 15-20 g / sq. m of potassium salt.

FIFTH FEEDING OF ROSES (AUGUST)

After the second bloom. Nitrogen has not been used since the end of July, otherwise the rose will remain overwintering with young unripe shoots, which is extremely undesirable and can lead to the death of the bush.

Introduction of organic matter under roses: 50-100 g of ash are brought into the trunk circle, and rotted manure is used for digging.

Application of mineral fertilizers for roses: 30-40 g / 1 sq. m of potassium magnesia, 40-50 g/sq. m of superphosphate, 15-20 g / sq. mkali salt.

THE MOST EFFECTIVE MODERN FERTILIZER FOR ROSES

Microbiological fertilizer Azotovit for roses, Industrial Innovation

Highly concentrated liquid fertilizer based on soil bacteria (Azotobacter chroococcum). Bacteria fix atmospheric nitrogen inaccessible to the plant, converting it into forms that are easy to assimilate. Stimulates the development of the vegetative system, the growth of new shoots and buds, increases the intensity of the color of flowers and leaves. Prevents the development of fungal diseases. 30 ml of the drug is dissolved in 10 liters of settled water, watered over moist soil, on 3-4 bushes. Shake before use.

Mineral granular fertilizer for roses Gloria, FASCO

Prolonged action. Produced using a new technology - each granule contains the same composition of nutrients: NPK (5:9:5), magnesium, calcium. With the main application, the fertilizer must be evenly scattered over the soil surface and plowing, digging or loosening. When applying fertilizer to top dressing, evenly distribute it over the entire area, followed by incorporation, loosening or digging for half a bayonet, if necessary, pour the soil.

Fertilizer for roses and chrysanthemums, Bona Forte

Liquid complex fertilizer in a convenient 1.5 liter plastic canister. Contains NPK (3:4:8), magnesium, trace elements in chelated form. For active budding and abundant long-term flowering, succinic acid and a specially selected complex of vitamins are added to the composition. Roses are fed from early spring to mid-July 1 time / 10-15 days, and it is recommended to combine root and foliar top dressing. One canister is enough to fertilize up to 400 rose bushes.

Organo-mineral granular fertilizer for roses, Fertika

Fertilizer with 18% humate, NPK (8:6:10). Each granule of the mixture contains a complete balanced set of macro-and microelements necessary for the normal growth and development of plants. Main application: 100-150 g into the planting hole. Top dressing: in early spring and after flowering, 30-40 g per bush. Watering: 30-40 g per 10 liters of water.

Rose fertilizer, Pokon

The balanced mixture is specially formulated for rose gardens on terraces and balconies, so that the roses bloom luxuriantly for a long time. The fertilizer contains a nutrient solution with a ratio (NPK 8:5:5) as well as iron and magnesium. Used after each pruning and flowering in a proportion of 10 ml per 1 liter of water.

Agricola for indoor and garden roses, Technoexport

Contains a full range of macro- and micro-elements, the balance of substances is shifted towards potassium NPK (13:15:18 + micro-elements). Thanks to this composition, roses bloom much more magnificently and for a longer time, they leave for the winter strong and prepared.

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