Do-it-yourself closet in the toilet: instructions from the masters. Do-it-yourself wardrobe in the toilet for comfort and freeing up useful space. It has long been clear to all city dwellers that the planners of domestic real estate objects themselves live in inhuman conditions. They generally suffer from the timidity of large spaces and also genuinely believe that the smaller the room, the more comfortable it is. They also do not have property, for this reason they do not assume the presence of pantries and wall cabinets. So for us, "specialists, willy-nilly," it is possible to get pissed off. At present, we will build a closet in the toilet with our own hands - because we would like to put home chemicals and other little things somewhere!
You can rely only on yourself, for this reason we tested tilers and plasterers - the walls in the toilet must be strictly vertical and, in accordance with this, parallel. We will compensate for the height differences on the floor or ceiling ourselves, however, the walls - this is critical in relation to them.
We will make such a closet in the toilet
For the locker, we have chosen this option. The total width of the toilet room is 820 millimeters, so it was possible to make 2 doors - however, this is already a double adjustment of the joints. However - nothing difficult, the options are yours.
Materials for the closet in the toilet
With this option, it is laminated glossy chipboard with a thickness of sixteen millimeters. Or it is possible to take inexpensive polished chipboard and paste over it with a beautiful film - it depends on the budget of the project. We give the dimensions of the elements, depending on the height of the ceilings, 2650 millimeters - so it is practically possible to change the height due to the lowest blank panel.
The fan pipe is 260 millimeters away from the back wall along the front edge, so we take the depth of the shelves to the maximum possible, but we don’t “stop” on the drain tank. We provide for the width of the side inserts - 80 millimeters, namely the space from the back wall to the tank is more than 410 millimeters.
Product detail
- 815x300 millimeters - five pcs. Shelves that still need work.
- 2440x80 mm - two pieces, side inserts. The length is given according to the size of an ordinary chipboard sheet, so that they will not reach the floor - we will hide it behind a false panel.
- 800x820 millimeters - false panel. It is adjusted to the place in the final queue.
- 1800x814 millimeters - door.
- 820x40 millimeters - top bar - plug.
In addition, we will need all the trimmings from the sheet - in order to strengthen the shelves.
Attach the edge (meaning melamine, 0.5 millimeters thick, with an adhesive base) to the end of the part with the beautiful side up. Heat with an iron along the entire length - the iron regulator is 3/4 maximum. Smooth the hot edge with a dry cloth for a perfect bond and finish the edge with a knife and sandpaper.
To make your choice, how to create a locker in the toilet, you need to pick up the accessories.
Fasteners and accessories
It is most practical to mount the shelves to the wall on an aluminum corner profile 25x25 millimeters. They are sold in lengths of 2.2 m, so one piece will be enough. We take serious fasteners in the wall. In particular, this affects the side insert on which the door will hang. As well as:
- Furniture handle.
- Furniture hinges, 4 pcs. Sample for ordinary loops with a diameter of 35 millimeters with a specialized loop cutter. Above and also below the distance is arbitrary, but from the edge of the door it is strict: 22 millimeters to the middle of the hole.
- Furniture magnets are not Chinese. The door is massive and snotty oriental fakes will absolutely break. 3 pieces.
- Aluminum U-shaped profile x20 mm. Its internal distance is 16.2 millimeters. We will put it on the front edge of the shelves - see the following illustration. Due to the cutout for the fan pipe, a fragile and narrow jumper will appear on the shelves, which will simply fail under load. The profile will give the shelf rigidity.
- Furniture corners - eight pcs. On them, a false panel is attached to the side inserts, as well as the top plug - from the inside.
An aluminum U-profile x20 mm is put on the front edge of the shelves
Required Tools
It is unthinkable to mount and make a cabinet for the toilet with your own hands without the right tools, so we are preparing:
- Jigsaw electric, with a set of saws for wood.
- Drill driver.
- Perforator.
- Roulette.
- Level.
- Pencil.
If, in addition to the fan, the shelves also fall on a large number of pipes, we advise you to buy a feather drill with a diameter of thirty millimeters. The following figure shows cutouts on the shelf for regular and fan pipes - it is noticeable why it can come in handy. A hole of ten millimeters is marked in order to facilitate the entry of the file when turning to a large radius.
However, before starting any cutouts, it is required to determine the location of the shelves - the pipes do not go vertically at all, and the holes are created for clear dimensions for any shelf.
Toilet cabinet installation
We fixed the distance between the shelves “as we like best” - along one wall, on top. On the 2nd wall, we mark already with the help of a level, starting from the markings made.
We use aluminum corners sawn into pieces of 190 millimeters in the form of shelf supports. We specifically took this option, so that there was a prospect of choosing a place for fasteners where the puncher would crawl through.
We adjust the shelves by cutting holes for pipes. Always start with the fan and move deeper into the closet. We glue (or fasten) a U-shaped profile to the shelves. It is necessary to fix the shelves behind the vent pipe, so we screw appropriate-sized pieces of chipboard to them from below so that they become a jumper.
We fasten the side inserts strictly according to the level - otherwise the door will rise unevenly. We screw the false panel to them on 2 upper corners (there are 4 of them in total) and measure the horizontal level of its upper edge with a level. And if the horizon is uneven, we file from below until the ideal is reached.
We hang the door by laying a gasket 6 mm thick between it and the panel. The door will sag a little, it is worth leaving a larger gap. We adjust the loops, align the cracks. The final chord will be the top plug, which perceives the unevenness of the ceiling.
Before attaching the magnets - put the handle: No one will push your door from that side, but from this side you can only pick it up with a crowbar.
We figured out how to make a closet in the toilet. Other pantries are easier to build - there are no pipes.
Belarusian interior doors as an indicator of the totality of European standards and reasonable prices. The most popular manufacturers of quality products will be presented.
Interior blocks from Belarusian manufacturers: European design at affordable prices
Belarusian furniture and door products have always remained on top due to their special distinctive qualities and affordable price range in the retail supply of consumer demand in the construction market. One has only to point to interior door structures and say that the doors are from Belarus, questions immediately disappear. This unshakable indicator is comparable, for example, with perfumes from France or silks from India, the quality is beyond comparison.
It so happened regionally that Belarus is rich in the most popular building materials for the production purposes of door blocks:
Wood in this country grows everywhere, it is not in vain that Belarus is sung by dense groves and forests. Historically, doors from Belarus have always been the best, as the land also provided talented carpenters. So the availability of wood raw materials and the large number of artisans are reflected in the low cost of production in the consumer market.
Interroom doors Belarus represents in the countries of the former Soviet Union directly from the manufacturer. A catalog with a range of quality doors will help you quickly and easily select any product with respect to the required standard sizes, in a variety of colors, a wide range of design and constructive solutions. Regardless of the stylistic interior design in the room, it will not be difficult to choose the ideal Belarusian product in terms of functionality and design. The presented catalog of interior ceilings will allow you to get acquainted with all the functional characteristics and technical properties of products made in European design, but at an affordable cost.
The most famous, sought-after and high-quality Belarusian fabricated products at trade construction sites in the CIS countries are presented from the following manufacturers:
| № | Manufacturer of interior doors | City of location of production facilities | Average cost of solid wood products |
| 1 | TM "Doors of Belarus" | Minsk | $78 |
| 2 | Company "ISTOK" ("Istok Dors") | Minsk | $58 |
| 3 | Company "Hales" | Smorgon | $60 |
| 4 | TM "BelWoodDors" | Minsk | $52 |
| 5 | TM "Green Plant" | Minsk | $68 |
| 6 | ALC "VIST" | Minsk | $80 |
| 7 | Commercial and industrial company «Plant» | Minsk | $76 |
Belarusian doors: advantageous features in technological production
On an industrial scale, in the manufacture of Belarusian doors, only environmentally friendly materials and modern technologies are used. So the end result of the fabricated product is in no way inferior in terms of aesthetic features and quality characteristics of the product of European manufacturing companies. Of particular note is the production technology of veneered interior structures.
Technologically, Belarusian blocks are veneered in two types:
Veneer, as a thin cut of valuable species of natural wood, is known to many. The raw material has all the characteristics of a natural material, combining the magnificence of the wood structure and its beauty, environmental friendliness, as well as sound and heat insulation properties.
Technologically, veneering is performed by pressing natural veneer on a chipboard or MDF base.
The technology of exterior decoration of door panels with eco-veneer is based on the use of a slightly different kind of material. The frame is made of furniture boards, where tempered glass and Belarusian MDF canvases are used as inserts. The eco-veneer material itself is a heavy-duty raw material, the resistance of which to mechanical damage is comparable to hard plastic. At the same time, the surface of the texture is indistinguishable from natural wood, completely imitating the texture of wood. So the eco-veneer is quite pleasant and realistic to the touch.
Veneered structures for interior purposes of Belarusian production are unique in their kind due to the peculiarities of technological manufacturing. Thus, the aesthetic naturalness of the product is preserved with the ergonomic use of raw materials with a pleasant quality, which is reflected in the retail value of the products presented at trade construction sites. The advantages of door products created by veneering on a frame made of MDF or chipboard, as well as the technology of veneering canvases with raw materials of valuable species made from solid wood, include the following indicators:
Wenge doors in the interior
Belarusian production is simultaneously developing in various directions: design, technology, assortment. Marketing approaches are constantly evolving. In addition to high quality indicators and low prices, Belarusian manufacturers offer the consumer an individual approach and attentive attitude of specialists.
Having picked up any of the options and design of the door, it is permissible to adjust the finish of the canvas, color, glazing, which ultimately makes the product exclusive. Such an attentive attitude of production specialists makes the products most in demand. It is worth paying attention to the leading Belarusian companies that produce demanded products:
Many large companies in Belarus use the latest materials processing technologies in their production, with the help of which the designs of fabricated products are prefabricated. This kind of approach to the manufacturability of processing is in the power of Belarusian manufacturers to ensure the quality of products with a long period of effective operation.
The elegance of Belarusian products in pastel colors
At present, the most popular are white interior ceilings of Belarusian production or a model range made in pastel colors of light shades. The attractiveness of interior door panels, created in pastel colors, is provided by decorative golden elements in the form of overlays on canvases, glazing, paneling and other decorative decors. The artistic design of the door panels in pastel colors completes the sophistication of the interior of any room and gives a certain elegance to the design.
Belarusian typical doors look especially advantageous in the openings of bedrooms, living rooms, which are furnished in a classic style in ivory or white colors of the furniture solution. The pastel-colored door leafs complete the style and give harmony to the room, the design solution of which is reduced to a modern or semi-antique style. Quite popular are interior light doors, created from a type-setting array or solid, finished with natural light wood veneer with decorative glazing and other artistic elements. Among the assortment range of Belarusian production, there are such models in pastel colors as:
Door products of Belarusian production have, in addition to all the advantages, an additional characteristic such as electrostaticity. This quality, inherent in the surface of products, does not allow dust to collect on the panels, which facilitates the care of fabricated products and external presentability.
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.
In the photo - the hero of today's story.
Recently put the car in the garage and met there with a neighbor. He knows that all my life I have been renovating different apartments and I know how to assemble furniture, so he asked me to help make a locker for the toilet. This design seems to be imperceptible and done quickly, but in order for the result to please all your life, you need to do everything right with your own hands.
Of course, you can limit yourself to blinds or shutters, but the neighbor said that his wife does not consider this option. She definitely needs hinged shelves behind the toilet so that there is where to put household chemicals and other little things needed in the household.
Nothing to do! Moreover, after finishing work, I was entitled to a considerable bonus in the form of beer with dried fish. And for those who do not have a neighbor like me, below I will tell you all about how to design a wall-mounted toilet cabinet yourself.
Preparation for work
Material selection and sketch
The design of any cabinet, as well as other pieces of furniture, begins with a drawing. Believe me, without false modesty I will say, experience. Which is better for your toilet, but we decided for a neighbor, after coordinating this matter with his wife, to design a hanging closet for the toilet room, the doors of which are mounted on ordinary piano hinges and swing open outward (this is understandable).
In principle, we got it not so much mounted as built-in. The fact is that he has a hanging toilet bowl installed in the toilet and an empty space has formed above the installation, which they decided to use rationally by installing a cabinet.
About the choice of material. Here, too, it all depends on your financial capabilities and imagination. You can use boards, plywood, drywall and so on.
I advised a neighbor to use 16mm thick laminated chipboard. In this case, it will turn out not too expensive and beautiful. To save even more, I can suggest you use plywood or regular chipboard. They will need to be cleaned with sandpaper and pasted over with a decorative film.
Now about the sizes. I have already said that a friend has a toilet bowl with an installation around which a shelf is made of drywall. Therefore, we built the toilet cabinet into the resulting niche. Based on this, the dimensions were obtained: depth - 300 mm (from the edge of the shelf to the wall), width 800 mm, height 1600 mm.
It is necessary to plan the dimensions of the cabinet so that it closes all engineering communications at the back wall of the toilet room. From above, these will be cabinet doors, and below (if the toilet is without installation), you can equip a separate blank part from the same laminated chipboard, adjusting its dimensions in place.
One more moment. No matter how much your wife asks you to make a bigger locker, a reasonable compromise should be observed. Shelves should not hang over the toilet bowl, and the doors for the cabinet in the toilet, when opened, should not touch any plumbing fixtures in the room.
Cutting details
Before you make a locker in the toilet with your own hands, it is recommended to stock up on parts for it in advance. To do this, you need to buy a sheet of laminated chipboard in a building supermarket and order it there on a special machine. From personal experience, I can say that this way you will avoid various chips and damage on the cuts, and the cutting places themselves will look much neater.
In our particular case, we needed the following details:
- shelves measuring 800 by 300 mm - it took 5 of them (the dimensions and number of these parts will be different for you, as I proceed from the measurements that I made with a neighbor);
- sidewalls 1600 mm long and 80 mm wide - they will be installed along the edges on the front side of the cabinet;
- a door with parameters of 1560 by 640 mm - in order not to bother with hanging it, you can use blinds on the locker, but my neighbor's wife insisted on the door, and to argue with her - do not respect yourself;
- top cap with dimensions of 40 by 800 mm - it will decorate the upper part of the cabinet, since no one makes the door flush with the ceiling (I, as an expert, know for sure).
In my case, everything was limited to this, but if your toilet is attached to the floor, you will need a false panel to mask utilities. You can also make sliding doors, but it all depends on the dimensions of the restroom.
As I said, blanks have already been brought from the store. For this, I didn’t even need a truck, everything fit into my not very big machine.
In order for the neighbor's wife to like everything in general, I decided to decorate the edge of the shelf with melamine self-adhesive tape. There is not much to do there. You heat the iron to about three-quarters of the power, apply the tape to the cut end and roll it with the sole of the iron. Excess along the edges is removed with a blade and sandpaper.
Naturally, only visible parts need to be processed in this way. What will be attached to the walls is not necessary to decorate. Therefore, the procedure took a little time, and I earned myself an extra bottle of beer.
Additional fittings
If you think that our trips to the store with a neighbor are over, then you are deeply mistaken. I, as an experienced furniture designer, who furnished almost my entire apartment with cabinets of my own making, took care of fasteners and fittings.
Again, I can tell you with confidence that it is best to screw the shelves to the wall using an aluminum corner. In the store, blanks are sold in lengths of 2 meters with a penny, so one piece for the entire locker will be enough.
So that the whole monumental structure would not collapse on a brand new one (otherwise they would make them pay, instead of beer), I took larger dowels so that they would sit firmly in the wall. It is especially important to take care of attaching the side insert to which the door will be hung.
Let's briefly go through the other items on the list of necessary parts (you can print or take a picture of the screen and walk around the store with it, I'll save you time this way):
- Furniture handle. The wife of my neighbor in the garage personally took care of this purchase. Since she could not entrust us with the acquisition of the most important part of the cabinet due to the complete lack of artistic taste in us (in her words).
- Standard furniture hinges, the number of which depends on the material used and the dimensions of the door. We had enough 3 pieces. Pay attention to the quality, as the door will open frequently. Save now - you will have to redo it in time.
- Magnets for fixing the door. Here, too, I advised a friend not to save, and I also advise you to listen to me, a smart person. Any cheap Chinese plastics will not work. It is better to take a solid domestic product.
- Furniture corners. They are useful for fixing the side inserts and the top part above the door. They are inexpensive, so I advise you to take with a margin. They will come in handy later on in the household.
If you use thin plywood, boards or chipboard for shelves, I also recommend buying a U-shaped furniture profile that will strengthen the shelf. Its price is not so great. But this way it will even be possible to store bricks or dumbbells on it. This is especially important if in the future in the shelves you have to choose holes for the water and sewer pipes passing through the cabinet.
Tools
So that the arrangement of the locker does not drag on for years and centuries (after all, these are not Egyptian pyramids), I recommend buying, renting or asking friends for such tools:
- an electric jigsaw with files for working on wood (no one cuts chipboard with a manual hacksaw);
- a drill with a screwdriver function or vice versa (you are unlikely to want to manually screw a considerable number of self-tapping screws and screws);
- puncher (with a drill, which is indicated in the previous paragraph, you will not quickly drill concrete walls in the toilet, and it will be too sloppy);
- drawing tools and a building level (despite the fact that we brought the parts ready-made, we had to adjust the dimensions quite a lot already and in place, since the tilers - not good people - laid the tiles poorly).
If you have to drill holes for water pipes, immediately buy a special file (skirt) of the required diameter. Naturally, the hole for the sewer pipe will have to be cut with a jigsaw, but in this, I tell you for sure, there is nothing complicated.
Do not drill holes for pipes in all shelves at once. I am sure that the pipes in your toilet (and I made a lot of cabinets, so I know what I'm talking about) will not go strictly vertically, you will have to adjust them in place, scolding the builders of apartment buildings for their curvature.
Cabinet installation
Finally, we got directly to the installation. Now listen carefully how to make an awesome closet in the toilet with your own hands. The scheme is as follows:
- Sawing aluminum corner(shelves will rest on it) into segments 200 mm long. You don’t need to do it for the whole (300 mm), since you won’t be able to drill a hole with a puncher near the far wall. Although, if anyone can, send me a photo in the comments, it's interesting to see.
- If pipes will pass through the shelves, select recesses for them. It is recommended to strengthen the cut shelves on both ends with a U-shaped profile, otherwise they may break under load. Especially if the closet is not too deep.
- In my case, all engineering communications were hidden under the tiles in the installation, so no additional manipulations with the shelves were required.
- Then my neighbor and I took up side inserts. Here the secret is to install them strictly according to the level (even if, as happened with us, the walls are not perfectly tiled).
If you do not heed my advice, then you will face huge problems when hanging the door. In this case, you do not need to make claims against me, it is your own fault.
- It's time to install the false panel. I have already said that a neighbor has an installation in the toilet, to which a toilet bowl is attached. Therefore, a false panel is not needed and I will not describe in detail the process of installing it. But there is nothing complicated. It is necessary to adjust the dimensions of the panel on site and screw it to the pre-mounted corners.
- We hang the door. I advise you to take into account the fact that this element will sag over time. Therefore, first attach it with a gap of 3-5 mm, and after a week or two, adjust the final position with the help of loops.
- Attaching the top piece. It will also have to be finalized with a jigsaw and other tools, since it is unlikely to be exactly in place (in my practice, for example, this did not happen).
- We install accessories. First you need to fix the handle, and then the magnetic loops. By no means in reverse order. I did this at the beginning of my career as a builder and then puzzled for a long time how to open the door of the finished cabinet, which was firmly stuck to the magnets. Believe me, the task is not an easy one.
At the last stage, we move on to the decorative finish of the structure. Here the neighbor's wife said that she could handle it herself and we went to drink beer. But in principle, laminated chipboard does not need any additional processing. Unless, of course, you did everything carefully.
Cabinets made of other materials
I understand that not everyone will use laminated chipboard to make a cabinet (as was the case in my case). Therefore, since I am in a good mood today, I will tell you some tips from my own experience on how to make a cabinet from drywall, wood and plywood.
Plasterboard sheets
I immediately warn you, you need to take waterproof drywall. It differs from the usual one in green cardboard (in the usual one it is gray). In this case, I do not recommend making a door at all. GKL are great if you want to make the shelves completely open or hang them with blinds.
The design process here is easier to describe, but in terms of labor intensity it is much more complicated. Therefore, before you start, you should weigh the pros and cons.
Anyway, here's the diagram:
- To begin with, a frame is constructed from a galvanized profile or wood. You can choose the dimensions and height of the shelves arbitrarily. I would suggest making them tall enough to fit bottles of household detergent. Otherwise, your soulmate will not thank you for such a locker.
- After that, the frame is sheathed with drywall. First you need to cut the GKL into suitable elements (a jigsaw is perfect for this), then fix them on the supporting elements with self-tapping screws (a screwdriver is used).
If you don't have a jigsaw, you can cut drywall sheets with a knife. To do this, they are cut from the side where the cardboard is pasted, after which they simply break.
- To make everything beautiful, the caps of the self-tapping screws need to be puttied. To make it really beautiful, it is recommended to do this several times, each time letting the applied mass dry completely.
- The next step is grinding. Not sandpaper is used, but a special mesh, with which you can easily get rid of bumps. Then I always wipe all the shelves from dust and cover them with soil. It facilitates subsequent finishing work, so do not skip this step.
- Then you need to seal the seams. You probably read that a sickle is used for this. However, I propose to take fiberglass (it is sold in special rolls) and glue it with PVA. This way you can save time on further processing.
- As soon as the seams dry, they only need to be lightly puttied, applying a very thin layer of putty. It dries quickly and requires almost no sanding (I told you to save time).
Having thus made the base of the cabinet, you can proceed to the decorative finish. Unlike a cabinet with chipboard, you have to work hard here. I personally know several options:
- Tile. The difficulty here is that it must be very carefully cut into parts of the desired size. After that, glue it on a special glue and decorate the seams with grout of the desired color (there are a lot of different options in the store).
- Water based paint. Easy and fast option. You just need to check that it has a hydrophobic effect. I advise you to take the "rubber" paint. I think you'll like the result.
If you do not have enough experience in laying tiles, it is advisable to insert plastic corners into the ends. It will turn out aesthetically and neatly.
Plywood
This material is not much different from laminated chipboard, except for the appearance. Therefore, I will only talk about a few points that are important personally in my opinion:
- Use FC plywood. Despite the fact that PSF is more moisture resistant, the glue with which the veneer layers are glued together contains a lot of formaldehyde, so it will stink in the toilet and be harmful to health.
- If the length of the shelves is more than 50 cm, I recommend strengthening them. You can also use a U-shaped profile or cut out parts 20-30 mm wide from plywood, and then strengthen them along the shelves, placing them vertically. Get stiffeners.
- You can cut plywood yourself, but not with a jigsaw, but with a circular saw. Otherwise, chips will form at the ends, which will spoil the entire appearance of the cabinet. They are very difficult to disguise with decorative trim.
- When marking plywood before cutting, try to keep the fibers along the long edge. This will add rigidity to the structures. In addition, cutting pieces of plywood along the grain is easier, and chipping can be avoided in most cases.
- I always fastened thick plywood sheets with each other with self-tapping screws, without any corners. And the cabinets are still there. The only thing is that you need to sink the hat deep into the plywood so that it does not stick out above the surface.
- Plywood, especially high quality, I would not paint. It is better to sand the cabinet with sandpaper and cover with several layers of alkyd-urethane varnish. Moreover, after applying the first, it is desirable to sand everything again so that the locker is not rough to the touch.
Wood
Natural wood, unlike glued materials, is a more durable and beautiful material. And after varnishing, you will be sorry that you built such beauty in the toilet, and not in the living room or bedroom. However, the price for the boards will be high. So make your own decision.
You need to fasten the parts not with screws, but with dowels planted on glue. In this case, the result will exceed all your expectations.
Conclusion
As you can see, making a toilet cabinet with your own hands is not so difficult. The main thing is to stock up on everything you need: beer, roach and a few other details. And then you do not have to blush for the result. If interested, watch the video in this article, which contains a lot of useful information regarding apartment renovation and furniture design.
August 1, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!
Often there are problems with a place to store household chemicals. All sorts of powders, cleaners, rinses ... There are more and more of them, and usually there is nowhere to store them. The bathroom is too humid, the kitchen is not very pleasant, as they can spread extraneous aromas, which are weakly combined with cooking, or rather, they do not fit together. However, there is a way out - a closet in the toilet. Although the toilet is usually a small room, you can also find free space in it - above or behind the toilet. This is where you can hang / install a toilet cabinet.
What material to make
When they decide to make a closet in the toilet, the question immediately arises of what material to make it from. If we talk about furniture, there are such options:
- (LDSP);
- laminated;
- wood.
The cheapest material in this category is chipboard. MDF is four times more expensive and wood is even more expensive. If you assemble doors from a cut board or lining with your own hands, this may not be more expensive than MDF. But such work requires at least a minimum carpentry skill. If not, you will have to pay for the work of a specialist, which can significantly increase the final cost of the product.
If the locker is going to be tiled, covered with wallpaper, vinyl, plastic, you can use materials other than those listed above:
- plywood;
- GVL (gypsum fiber sheet);
- sheet MDF.
All of the materials listed are quite suitable for building a locker in the toilet. The only doubt may be about GVL: will it crumble at the place where the loops are attached? If large loads are not expected, it is quite possible to use this material.
Frosted glass and a mirror are also possible facade options for a closet in the toilet
Now the question is whether to use moisture resistant materials. The closet in the toilet can be made of ordinary material, provided that it is only a toilet, and not a combined bathroom, i.e. there will be no high humidity in the room. An exception is the situation when it is done with the help of an overflow window through the toilet. Such schemes still exist in houses with the old layout. In all other situations, the use of moisture resistant materials is optional.
False wall and niche
In most apartments, the toilet is a narrow and long room. Its width is about a meter, its length is two meters or more. Such a long room is inconvenient to use - the area up to the door is still not used in any way. You can improve the situation by installing a false wall. At the same time, the toilet bowl can be moved forward, and 50-60 cm can be fenced off with a partition. The remaining space is more than enough for comfort, and the one that turns out to be “outside the wall” can be used as a closet.
Sewer and water risers will hide behind this false wall, which otherwise will have to be closed with a special one. The space behind the toilet does not have to be sewn up tightly. Here you can make a very spacious closet. It can store powders, stocks of other chemicals, which are usually hard to find a place.
For the device, you will have to move the toilet forward, nail the strips to the walls and ceiling (40 * 40 mm will be quite normal), fill the horizontal strips that will hold the shelves. Doors for such a cabinet in the toilet are attached directly to the walls. Or rather, to the slats that are fixed on the wall.
The plank is needed 8 cm wide. Since it will be visible when the doors are open, it is desirable that it be finished with the same material as the doors. It is fastened with nails / screws / dowels to the wall, and loops to it.
Closet in the toilet from floor to ceiling (or almost)
A closet for a toilet room can be a separate piece of furniture. It has a characteristic design that cannot be confused with anything. At the bottom, the closet in the toilet has two narrow and high cabinets, which stand at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. Above them there is one or two sections with or without doors. These are already solid sections with hinged doors.
Different execution the idea is the same - the maximum use of all available space
The parameters of these cabinets depend on the dimensions of the room. You will not see such products in stores, only an individual order. From the same laminated chipboard it will not be too expensive, and there is a lot of space for storing chemicals.
There are models that are more economical in terms of using space: in the lower part there are only supports-racks, open and closed shelves are located above the toilet bowl.
The above option is good when the load-bearing capacity of the walls is not sufficient to support conventional wall shelves. If you have a partition made of drywall, porous or lightweight concrete, you can look in this direction.
Wall cabinets
Above the toilet, you can hang a regular wall cabinet of suitable width and height. It can be part of the kitchen or part of the hallway. In any modular collection you can find a suitable sample. You only have to cut holes in the back wall for sewer and water risers, but this alteration is not difficult.
Wall cabinet over the toilet: height and facades are different ...
If you're worried that the open cut might be damaged by moisture, you can take a self-adhesive melamine sheet and rub it over the cuts. A simpler option is painting or coating with a water-repellent sealant.
The height of the cabinet above the toilet can be different. As you can see in the photo above, you can hang different models - on two or three shelves (total height of about 70 cm) or on five to seven shelves (total height is obtained from a meter or more). The most important condition is the cabinet must not block the ventilation opening. The second point: it should not interfere. That is, there should be access to the flush button, and while sitting on the toilet, you should not beat your head against the door. Based on these considerations, they select the dimensions of the wall cabinet in the toilet. Since the parameters of the toilet bowl, cistern and installation of the entire structure are different, the depth of the cabinet can be from 35 to 60 cm.
What to make doors
If you decide to make a closet for the toilet yourself, it’s usually not a problem to make shelves: two parallel planks are stuffed on the walls, shelves are laid on them. Instead of planks, you can install furniture shelf holders - they are of different sizes and shapes, they are installed elementarily. A hole is drilled in the wall, into which the extended part of the holder is inserted. This is one type. The second is the brackets that are attached to the wall. In general, there are usually no problems in this part.
But with what and how to make doors, there may be questions. The easiest way is to order a facade of the right size in a furniture shop. It is better to order together with the strips to which these doors will be attached. And you can also ask to embed loops. Then it will be easy to install them in general: screw them to the wall and that's it. Possible facade materials: chipboard, LMDF, plastic, aluminum + glass or aluminum + plastic.
There is an option - to make doors from sheet material and paste over them with the same tiles that were laid on the walls. This is in case you do not want the cabinet to stand out. You can also stick a mosaic of a suitable shade, use flexible tiles (plastic sheet for tiles), stick washable wallpaper, glass wallpaper for painting, etc. There are actually a lot of options.
In panel apartment buildings, with a ready-made sanitary cabin, divided into a bath and a bathroom, riser utilities, as well as water supply to the apartment, is located in the toilet behind the toilet. During construction, they are closed with an ugly cabinet with a door, which are often changed to decorative cabinets. One of the options for such a decorative cabinet that covers the riser utilities and plumbing inlet to the apartment can be a plasterboard cabinet. If in the last article they built a drywall cabinet in the bathroom, here is how to make a closet in the toilet behind the toilet from drywall.
Working conditions
We have a toilet in a panel house, about 800 mm wide. Behind the installed toilet, there is a cabinet with a chipboard door, painted or glued with PVC film.
The task is to replace the existing, unprepossessing closet, with a closet in the toilet behind the toilet made of plasterboard with a hatch-door, for access to utilities. The hatch-door is planned to be lined with ceramic tiles along with the walls in the toilet.
measurements
For the correct purchase of materials, even before dismantling, it is necessary to carry out the following measurements:
- The width of the toilet from wall to wall, at the installation site of the cabinet;
- The height of the toilet from floor to ceiling;
- The height of the upper part of the toilet barrel, taking into account the height of the finished floor.
Picture
On a piece of paper, draw a future wardrobe. In the figure, we indicate the door-hatch. The bottom of the hatch should not be lower than the height of the barrel in order to be able to open it. If the barrel is planned with a vertical drain mechanism, with a lever, you need to take into account the height of the drain handle.
Note: hatch door sizes are standard and can be viewed on any seller's website.
Together with the drawing of the cabinet, we will draw a diagram of the frame. The frame of the sanitary cabinet between the walls of the toilet is not complicated. Vertical racks near the walls and in the places where the hatch is installed. Horizontal posts on the ceiling and floor, as well as reinforcing posts on the bottom and top of the hatch installation. Around the hatch to be installed, a kind of frame of drywall profiles should form, and the profiles themselves need to be strengthened with a wooden beam in order to be able to fix the hatch door.
materials
For this work, we need the following materials:
- Guide profile (PN);
- Wooden beam to strengthen the profile at the installation site of the hatch;
- Gypsum cardboard moisture resistant on the area of a case 12 mm thick. To strengthen the structure, you can use two layers of drywall with a thickness of 10 mm;
- Self-tapping screws for drywall, self-tapping bugs, dowels and screws as needed;
- Sealing tape type Dichtungsband.
Tools
For this work, we need the following tool:
- Electric drill (or perforator);
- Scissors for metal or "grinder" for cutting a profile;
- Mounting knife for cutting drywall;
- Ruler metal;
- Construction level;
- A set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver.
Do-it-yourself closet in the toilet behind the drywall toilet: Stages of work
Stages of work include:
- Removing the toilet;
- Dismantling the old cabinet;
- Leveling the floor in the cabinet area (if required);
- Installation of the frame with the strengthening of the racks with a beam;
- Sheathing the frame with drywall;
- Installation of a hatch door;
- Sealing drywall joints, preparing for tile work.
Stages of work execution
Take off the toilet
Having previously turned off the water supply and drained the water from the barrel, the old toilet must be dismantled. He will interfere with work.
Dismantling the old cabinet
With the help of a crowbar, an ax and a nail puller, the old cabinet needs to be dismantled. Walls must be cleared of all structures.
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Leveling the floor in the closet area
If necessary, the floor in the installation area of the new cabinet must be leveled. Construction debris must be removed, and the floor leveled with a leveler, it is semi-dry and will not leak to the neighbors. The leveling agent (semi-dry screed) dries for 3 days.
markup
The layout of the cabinet consists in applying profile fastening lines to the walls, floor and ceiling. Marking lines must be strictly vertical.
Fastening profiles (frame construction)
The framework from profiles is mounted according to all rules of installation of designs from gypsum cardboard. The profiles are attached to the walls, floor, ceiling with dowels and screws or dowel-nails. Profiles are connected with self-tapping bugs or a cutter. The reinforcement beam is inserted into the profiles and fixed with wood screws. If the hatch is large and heavy, it is better to make vertical bars from ceiling to floor.
Important! Dichtungsband sealing tape must be laid between profiles and structures. The tape is glued to the outer shelf of the profile.
Hatch installation
Conclusion or Conclusions
The closet in the toilet behind the drywall toilet is tiled along with the walls.
