Balcony floors above living area. Self waterproofing of an open balcony

If earlier almost all citizens used a balcony to store old and unnecessary things, now the situation has changed. Apartment owners are trying to get additional living space, so they are converting a balcony room. Some residents install the roof, others make glazing, others insulate the space, etc. However, this is not enough to obtain a full-fledged living space. Be sure to waterproof the balcony.

Why do you need balcony waterproofing?

The balcony is more susceptible to the negative impact of weather conditions than other areas of the apartment. Waterproofing will protect the space from unpleasant moisture, fungus and dampness. If you use high-quality waterproofing materials and carry out the work correctly, you can provide reliable protection for the walls, ceiling and roof of the balcony.

In the vast majority of cases (95%), a concrete slab acts as a balcony base. High-quality waterproofing of an open balcony makes it possible to increase the resource of a structure that is under the influence of an aggressive environment by one and a half times. Failure to do so could result in financial losses later on.

Because reinforced concrete has a porous structure, and inside it there is a mortgage metal element. At sub-zero temperatures, water enters these pores and begins to chip off metal microparticles. Corrosion sets in and the metal breaks down. Waterproofing prevents destructive processes.

It is performed for floor slabs (processing from below and above), parapet (vapor insulation is also made at the same time), roofs (the truss system is processed).

If you understand the importance of this operation, let's move on and see how to waterproof a balcony in accordance with existing technology.

Balcony waterproofing materials

First, let's deal with the necessary materials.

It all depends on the decoration of the balcony structure. If the surface of the balcony is made of concrete / wood, penetrating compounds are used. In the presence of polyurethane / stone / tiles, a coating material is used.

The types of waterproofing materials are as follows:

• Cast insulation;
• adhesive insulation;
• Paint insulation;
• Impregnation.

Any of these materials will perfectly protect the balcony space from the negative effects of water / moisture.

Cast insulation has a water-repellent composition. When choosing it, a heated polymer is used. They process the floor of the balcony. It can quickly become damaged and lose integrity.

Pasting insulation means material in the form of a roll. On the entire balcony surface, it is overlapped. Joints are processed with special mastic. To give the waterproofing strength and effectiveness, it is laid in several layers.

Ease of use is characterized by paint insulation. Another plus is the low cost of the material. However, we do not recommend using it for a wooden surface. At sub-zero temperatures, it may crack and you will have to renew the waterproofing layer.

An excellent material for waterproofing wood/concrete surfaces is impregnation. It penetrates inside and ensures the safety of the structure. However, when processing a wooden surface, warm and dry weather is required. The applied impregnation should dry well.

Balcony waterproofing preparatory work

Having chosen the material, we get to work. You can entrust it to a specialist, but waterproofing a balcony does not require special qualifications, you can do it yourself and reduce the repair budget.

In addition to the preparatory stage, there are three more: processing the floor, the inner surface of the room, the visor / roof / gutters.

Preparation includes the following types of work:

• We dismantle the old coating;
• We analyze the state of the concrete base, determining the places of unsuitability;
• We remove them with a perforator;
• We clean the surface of debris with a stiff brush and remove the remnants of cement / old glue;
• We process cracks with a grinder. This is necessary so that the new screed fills all sorts of voids. We expand a small crack, trim a large one;
• We clean the exposed reinforcement rust with chemical compounds and remove the remains of concrete;
• We cover the fittings with an anti-corrosion compound;
• We prime the floor surface;
• We fill the holes with cement-sand mortar;
• We examine the roof of the balcony and determine the possible places of water penetration;
• We clean the surface of the ceiling / walls;
• We apply a primer with waterproofing material.

Balcony floor waterproofing

Floor waterproofing prevents moisture penetration from below. This is especially important for owners of apartments located on the first floors of buildings. Moisture may be from the basement/ground. We clean the floor from debris / dust and create a concrete screed. If the balcony is open, its slope must be 2%, so that the water freely descends from the surface. We reinforce the screed with a metal mesh.

All seams that have appeared in the process of work are filled with 50% mastic for sealing. We clean the screed from debris / dust and apply WB primer to it so that there is good adhesion. Moistened concrete is covered with several layers of polyurethane mastic.

We are waiting for the insulation to dry, and we overlap the vapor barrier material made of foil. This prevents condensation from occurring. We put a wooden frame on top. The OSB plate is attached to it with self-tapping screws. Finishing work - installation of finishing material on the floor of the balcony.

The thickness of the waterproofing should not be less than 20 mm and must go up to 200 mm on the walls.

Wall waterproofing on the balcony

Before carrying out waterproofing work with a grinder, we select U-shaped grooves in the interpanel seams and seal them with Germoplast. By this we eliminate the flow through microcracks. Then we attach decorative coatings.

Then we glue the foil polystyrene tightly to the wall. The second option is the usual foam, which is covered with a layer of vapor barrier film. Joints are formed between the foam sheets. We seal them. To reliably protect against moisture, we apply 2 layers of mastic.

Partitions

It is possible that there are additional partitions / other structures on your balcony. Then they should also be waterproofed. The principle of operation is similar.

Balcony ceiling waterproofing

We clean the ceiling plate and treat it with an antiseptic to protect the structure from the formation of fungal mold. Then the surface is treated with a coating / penetrating insulating compound. We seal with silicone all the cracks and cracks in the ceiling.

We fill the joints of the wall with floor slabs with sealant. When finishing the roof with tiles / metal tiles, each joint is additionally treated with polyurethane mastic. It has good adhesion and is easy to apply to wet ceiling surfaces. We recommend two layers of mastic. The second layer should be perpendicular to the first. After the first layer, the waterproofing layer is reinforced with a mesh. We give the mastic 3 days so that it dries well and hardens. This will create a strong crystalline protective layer.

For residents of the upper floors, we recommend laying a layer of roofing material on top of the roof of the balcony or covering it with roofing mastic. For roof waterproofing, we recommend calling in specialists. We do not recommend doing this work yourself. It's life-threatening.

Waterproofing a wooden balcony

Waterproofing a wooden balcony involves treating the boards with a special antiseptic to prevent strong moisture and the appearance of fungus on the surface. It is allowed to cover the floor with a wall with liquid rubber on the base, followed by processing with a finishing material.

Waterproofing helps prevent the development of mold and reduce the decorative effect of the tree. The material will begin to lose strength and attractiveness. Deformation of the coating will occur and it will not be possible for it to return to its previous appearance. Waterproofing a wooden balcony will prevent swelling and will not allow cracks to appear, which will lead to the destruction of the structure.

The technology of work depends on the functional purpose of the balcony and its type.

In this article, we examined the process of self-waterproofing a balcony. We hope that you will be able to use this technology.

When constructing balconies and level terraces, developers often make mistakes in the structure of the base. As a result, leaks and freezing of the balcony slab subsequently occur, which ultimately leads to its destruction.

The base of any terrace or balcony should slope away from the house to ensure natural rainfall drainage. If this is not done, then the water will stagnate, impregnate the underlying layers of the base, and at low temperatures expand and tear the concrete.

The required slope of 1.5-2% may already be the balcony slab itself or the floor slab of the level terrace. Or, on a horizontally mounted slab, a slope-forming layer is made in the form of a screed.

The specified minimum slope is so small that the technological layers located above will not spontaneously slide. The slope-forming layer in its thinnest place cannot be thinner than 3.5-4 cm. Otherwise, it may begin to crumble. Thus, with a 3-meter wide terrace, the thickness of the slope-forming layer at the edge of the wall with a 2% slope is 10 cm. The mass of this layer can be significant, so it should be taken into account in design calculations.

The presence of a slope is only a prerequisite, and the integrity of the structure cannot be ensured by it alone. An important point is the waterproofing of the base. The modern market offers a range of materials with which you can effectively waterproof a balcony slab or level terrace floor slab. It can be both all kinds of waterproofing mastics and roll materials (films and membranes). In order to avoid mistakes in creating a floor "pie" and not throw money away, you must strictly follow the manufacturer's recommendations and withstand technological breaks.

The structure of the base of the level terrace

Under the level terrace is meant a wide balcony located above any room or on a base resting on pillars. If the room under such a terrace is operated, then its ceiling (it is also the base of the terrace) must be insulated. In this case, it is possible to combine the insulating layer with the slope-forming one, if special polystyrene foam wedges are used. If a slope-forming screed is made or the floor slabs themselves already have a minimum slope, then the insulation is performed with plates of ordinary or extruded polystyrene foam or foam glass. The last two heaters in this case are more preferable, since they practically do not have water absorption, but they are correspondingly more expensive. Expanded polystyrene for floor insulation of a level terrace has the PSB-S-35 grade and higher.

As an example, let's consider a standard version of a floor pie of an open level terrace located above an operating room.

The lowest layer is the floor slab (1). It can be mounted with or without an outward slope. The advantage of the first option is the absence of the need to make a slope-forming layer (2), which will additionally load the ceiling if it is a cement screed.

On top of the slab or the slope-forming screed made on it, a layer of vapor barrier (3) is laid from a construction film or roofing felt, which will protect the insulation from moisture from water vapor diffusing outward from the living space. This vapor barrier must be brought to the wall to the level of the door threshold.

Insulation (4) is laid with a total layer of 12-20 cm with offset seams.

From above, the insulation is protected from moisture from above by a layer of waterproofing (5). It can be a polyethylene or polypropylene building film with a thickness of 0.2 mm. It also performs a separating function, allowing the overlying clamping screed (6) and the insulation layer to work independently of each other.

The pressure layer (6) is a reinforced cement screed 4-5 cm thick. Reinforcement is made in the form of a mesh with 10×10 cm cells of 3 mm steel rods. In the pressure layer, it is necessary to provide expansion joints: wall and forced. The latter divide the screed into sections of about 4 m². The width of the forced seams is 10-12 mm, and the width of the wall seams is at least 15 mm. Forced expansion joints in a reinforced screed are performed by pre-laying metal corners, which are removed after the cement mortar has set. When the screed has matured (after at least 14 days), the seams are filled with an elastic cord (10), the diameter of which is slightly larger than the width of the seam. This cord must be inserted into the seam so that it does not reach the bottom of the groove, otherwise the stresses arising from the shrinkage process will be transmitted to the lower layers, and this is undesirable. The upper part of the seam, remaining above the cord, is filled with an elastic mass, forming a concave meniscus on the surface.

On top of the pressure layer, continuous waterproofing (7) is made, which is a waterproof seamless membrane made of polyurethane or mineral mass with a thickness of at least 2 mm.

The top finish (14) is laid over the waterproofing layer. It can be frost-resistant ceramic tiles or decking. When laying a tiled floor, it is imperative to provide expansion (temperature) seams, which are longitudinal slots about 10 mm wide, filled with a special elastic cord made of polyurethane or polyethylene. Joints can also be filled with acidic outdoor silicone, forming a concave meniscus in the profile of the joint.

Weak link - waterproofing

Before applying liquid waterproofing, the concrete base should be primed, which will reduce its hygroscopicity. Most often, mineral primers are used that penetrate the base to a depth of 2 mm. The best result will be with double processing.

The most vulnerable areas of the base need more thorough waterproofing. These are primarily corners (11), adjoining to the wall and expansion joints. Sealing tapes (9) are laid in the above places. Due to their elasticity and stability in a wide temperature range (+90…-40С°), they are resistant to cracking.

Terrace waterproofing is recommended with polyurethane mastics or mineral mixtures (one- or two-component), as they have sufficient elasticity. It is necessary to apply mastic in two layers with an interval of 4-8 hours. Coating waterproofing should capture sealing tapes to a width of at least 2 cm. Waterproofing work should be carried out at a temperature not lower than -5 ° C and not higher than 25 ° C, and better in cloudy weather, since the material can get very hot and leak in the sun. Before applying it, be sure to read the manufacturer's recommendations for use. Some mastics are applied only on a dry base, but there are those that are applied on a wet one. After application, protect the surface from direct sunlight for at least 12 hours.

Terrace or balcony finishing

Frost-resistant ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware are excellent flooring options for a level terrace or balcony. They reliably protect the waterproofing coating from mechanical damage and are easy to clean. The tiles can be laid on the elastic adhesive mortar (8) already 24 hours after the last layer of waterproofing has been applied. The tile joints are filled with a frost-resistant elastic fugue (13).

The temperature (compensation) seams of the pressure plate are also maintained in the finishing coating. Their width, as a rule, is reduced, but they remain in line with the axis of the main seam. Expansion joints between tiles must not be filled with adhesive mortar or grout. This must be done with silicone sealant for outdoor use. Do the same with the seams at the junction with the wall (12).

On open terraces and balconies, the flooring will certainly heat up in the sun, and in order to reduce the maximum heating temperature, light-colored tiles should be used. Dark tiles are more likely to peel off as a result of temperature shifts.

Liquid waterproofing compositions differ in the degree of elasticity, and in order to guarantee tightness, experts recommend closing the expansion joints with sealing tapes. There are also materials on the market that make it possible to refuse expansion joints, due to their high intrinsic elasticity. This, in turn, makes it possible to use the same material as waterproofing and as an adhesive layer for flooring - waterproof polyurethane adhesive.

A balcony in a wooden house needs waterproofing to a greater extent than any of its counterparts in a stone building. After all, it is no secret that a tree is extremely susceptible to the negative influence of precipitation, with high dampness, a mold fungus quickly starts in it, contributing to its accelerated destruction.

Conventionally, the waterproofing of a wooden balcony can be divided into several steps. Here, in many respects, everything depends on what type it belongs to - open or closed. Many today turn their balcony into a kind of pantry, others into a study, and still others into a recreation area. In all these cases, reliable insulation and waterproofing, which can significantly increase comfort, cannot be dispensed with.

Waterproofing an open balcony in a wooden house

When waterproofing an open balcony in a wooden house, it is important to create a slight slope of the coating away from the house, this will avoid the accumulation of water on its surface, absorbing which the wooden floors will dampen and collapse. On average, the difference in the height of the edges of the coating near the house, and at the edge of the balcony should not exceed 4 cm, this will avoid breaking the hydraulic insulation.

For any type of balcony, floor waterproofing has a primary role. There are a huge number of materials intended for such an operation, among which there are - rolled, liquid, film and even membrane.

Much in waterproofing depends on the design of the balcony and whether it exists in a ready-made form or is only at the stage of preparation for construction. In the latter case, everything is much simpler and you can build a waterproofing system at the same time as the balcony itself. So, for example, in Switzerland, a balcony covering is lined on a special sheet of metal, between the boards of which small gaps of a few millimeters are left to ensure ventilation of the metal layer.

In the event that the balcony has already been built, the simplest, not expensive and at the same time reliable option is to carry out work to strengthen it and pour a small layer of concrete screed mixed with liquid rubber over the base. Those for whom this method is not suitable for any reason can use special waterproofing boards that are mounted directly under the floor covering.

Excellent waterproofing of the balcony floor in a wooden house can also be obtained thanks to liquid rubber, which is applied to the tree with a special sprayer. The main thing before this is to tightly seal all the cracks between the boards, ordinary mastic is perfect for this. Unfortunately, this method has one serious drawback. For its implementation, special expensive equipment is required, which means that using this method to waterproof the balcony in a wooden house with your own hands will most likely not work and you will have to call the master.

Waterproofing a closed balcony in a wooden house

Waterproofing a closed balcony in a wooden house is not much different from an open balcony, but this is only when it comes to flooring. It should not be forgotten that in closed balconies and loggias, in addition to the floor, there are also ceilings and walls, which also need to be given time in the process of waterproofing.

Note! The best way to waterproof the ceiling is to saturate it properly with special polyurethane mastics. It should be said right away that they are not cheap, but they pay off with interest, since the use of cheaper products will require at least their annual renewal, and polyurethane-based mastic will not require replacement for as long as 5 years.

If there is access to the ceiling of the balcony from the outside, then it is quite possible to carry out waterproofing using the same method as waterproofing the floor covering, or even create a reliable roofing.

Waterproofing the walls of a closed balcony in a wooden house is done in one of the following ways:

• Painting - the most popular method, which is the process of applying special protective varnishes containing rubber additives. Unfortunately, this option is short-lived and requires regular renewal of the protective layer, due to which, economical at first glance, it turns out to be one of the most expensive;
• Pasting - these protective materials are both self-adhesive and glued to the surface under the influence of high temperatures. The most popular pasting material is roofing material and its analogues. This method is quite laborious and requires a fairly frequent update of the protective layer, so it has become less and less popular lately.
• Water repellents are ready-made mixtures sold in most hardware stores. They have water-repellent properties, thanks to this they provide protection of the loggia from moisture at a sufficiently high level. Unfortunately, they break down quite quickly under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, so it is recommended to use them only for internal waterproofing;
• Powder - these products include the usual cement mixture with hydrophobic additives like liquid rubber, tile adhesive and special types of plaster. Of the disadvantages of powder waterproofing, only relatively low resistance to mechanical damage can be mentioned.

That's all the basic methods of how to waterproof a balcony in a wooden house. As can be seen from the above, it is quite within the power of any ordinary homeowner, in most cases it does not require special skills and special training. However, only by turning to professionals with a good reputation, you can get a truly reliable and high-quality insulation of your balcony.

The use of natural materials in the construction of a home is always relevant, due to the environmental friendliness and decorative finishes. Waterproofing a balcony in a wooden house, performed in the correct sequence and subject to the technology of work, will ensure long-term operation of the structure.

Wood materials are able to hide surface defects, have good soundproofing properties, creating an optimal microclimate of the home. The exterior finish of solid wood loggias needs high-quality protection from the effects of atmospheric phenomena and temperature extremes. Waterproofing a wooden balcony is a set of measures to prevent moisture from entering the structure.

The need for work is due to:

• normal functioning of the building;
• increase the service life of the coating.

Strong wetting of surfaces can lead to the development of mold, reducing the decorative effect of the tree. Subsequently, the material may lose its strength and attractive appearance, and irreversible deformation of the coatings will occur. Properly executed waterproofing of a balcony in a wooden house will prevent swelling, cracks, leading to the destruction of the structure.

The technology of work depends on the type and functional purpose of the loggias. It is important to take into account the features of open and closed structures, the material of the base and finish coating.

The choice of a waterproofing layer option should also provide for the intensity of operation and the intended purpose of the balcony (recreation or work area, pantry).

Materials for work

Balcony waterproofing in a wooden house is carried out using special materials, different in purpose and application methods. Products for the floor are represented by liquid, roll, membrane and film (polymer) finishes. There are several main types of insulation for walls: painting, cast, pasting.

Wooden parts must be treated with flame retardants, special compounds with antiseptic and water-repellent properties. Fungus and mold have a destructive effect, so it is important to prevent their occurrence.

The tree will retain its attractive appearance and strength when impregnated, painted, or varnished. Transparent compositions emphasize the natural texture and pattern of the surface. The varnish is recommended to be applied on the surfaces which are previously covered with drying oil. The final layer of finish can be additionally sealed with penetrating compounds.

• perforator and fixing accessories;
• cement, sand, bars;
• means for waterproofing and processing floors;
• expanded polystyrene and OSB boards;
• foil steam insulator;
• sealant, polyurethane foam;
• reinforced mesh.

Timely waterproofing of the balcony floor in a wooden house during construction will eliminate the need to remove the coating in the future. The work plan includes the creation of a concrete screed, the installation of a rolled insulating material coated with a bituminous or penetrating mixture. Only after completion of all stages, you can lay the board.

Waterproofing options for an open balcony

To find out how to waterproof a balcony in a wooden house correctly, the recommendations of experts will help. There should be a slight slope on the surface of the open loggia, which will help prevent the accumulation of water. Excess moisture is absorbed into the wooden floor surfaces on the balcony and leads to deformation of the material. The permissible difference in the height of the platform level is no more than 4 cm, which will preserve the hydraulic properties of the insulation.

The waterproofing layer can be made using various technologies:

1. Laying a special metal sheet. Insulation is installed at the stage of construction of the dwelling. Be sure to provide a gap between the coatings for ventilation.
2. Liquid rubber will ensure the tightness of the wooden floor. The finishing surface is removed, all cracks are sealed with mastic, and a layer of the mixture is laid. Upon completion of the work, the final installation of the external coating is carried out. It is important to consider the allowable weight for a particular type of structure.
3. The use of insulating boards. Sealing is achieved by laying the material under the floor finish.
4. Roll waterproofing, or applying bituminous mastic. The advantage of the options is the availability and low cost of materials.

High-quality waterproofing of a wooden floor on a balcony should maintain a certain sequence of work. Initially, the surface should be prepared. At this stage, if necessary, the old layer of insulation is removed. After laying the waterproofing layer, the selected finishing material is installed. In conclusion, it will be necessary to treat the tree with an antiseptic.

Having determined the option of how to waterproof a wooden balcony, it is important to maintain the correct algorithm:

• laying a draft layer of rolled insulation;
• insulation layer flooring;
• the use of coating compositions;
• finish flooring.

In the event that tiles are the final floor covering of the open loggia, it will be necessary to apply a primer and level the base before installing the insulation. The result should be a durable seamless coating.

Waterproofing technology for a closed balcony

Waterproofing the floor of a balcony in a wooden house with a closed type of construction practically does not differ from the options for open loggias. Additionally, attention should be paid to the ceiling and walls. Treating the ceiling surface with a mastic with a polyurethane composition will provide the necessary protection against moisture. On the outer plane, it is recommended to create a roof covering, or perform work similar to the floor waterproofing technology.

The general scheme for waterproofing floors consists of a coating with a liquid insulating compound, a layer of insulation, a hydro-barrier, a layer of rolled materials and a crate. In conclusion, the external roofing material is mounted. The option is suitable when using sheet-type coatings. In the case of a roof with soft tiles, it will be necessary to perform a sheathing of a continuous type in combination with rolled waterproofing materials.

To find out how to waterproof the balcony in each individual case, the list of available ways to work on the walls will help:

1. Gluing method. Materials with a self-adhesive base, or requiring exposure to high temperatures, are used. Roofing material, or its analogues, can also be used. The application process is quite laborious and requires special knowledge and skills during installation.
2. Coloring way. Provides surface coating with a protective varnish with rubber components. The disadvantage of this method is the need for frequent and regular updating of the insulation. The total cost of varnish products makes this option quite costly.
3. powder method. As a material for waterproofing, cement mixtures are used in combination with hydrophobic additives (tile adhesive, liquid rubber, special plaster). The resulting coating is not resistant to mechanical damage.
4. Water repellents. The method is based on the use of ready-made compounds that have the necessary insulating and water-repellent properties. A high degree of hydroprotection of surfaces is achieved. It is recommended to use water repellents for internal work, in external conditions the layer is subject to strong destruction under the influence of ultraviolet rays.

Proper implementation of the waterproofing technology for wooden balconies will provide reliable protection of the structure from moisture. It is possible to do the work with your own hands, using the proven advice of specialists. A high-quality waterproofing layer will prevent deformation and increase the durability of the wood material.

An open terrace in a private house is convenient and beautiful. But the joy of owning an outdoor tea area often ends with the onset of autumn: puddles gather on the terrace, the ceiling in the room under the platform becomes covered with wet spots, and mold begins to grow on the wall adjacent to the balcony. What is the problem? In the absence or gross errors in the organization of waterproofing of terraces. In order not to constantly waste time and considerable sums on correcting other people's miscalculations, it is necessary to seal the floor on the site once - but correctly and reliably.

Regardless of what material the terrace slab is made of, it is only the base. The coating resembles a multi-layer cake made of materials that do not allow moisture to pass through. Insulation sandwich construction:

1. The floor slab is the base of the terrace.
2. The first layer of terrace waterproofing is a vapor barrier membrane. Installed directly on a concrete base.
3. Thermal insulation layer. Taking into account the loads on the coating, solid polystyrene foam plates are selected. The thickness of the layer should be at least 10 - 15 cm.
4. Second waterproofing layer: durable waterproof PVC film.
5. Reinforced cement-concrete screed. Compounds are added to the solution to increase strength, reduce the permeability of the solution. Coarse-mesh welded or prefabricated steel mesh with a cell side of 10–20 cm is laid as reinforcement.
6. The third waterproofing layer: liquid polymer membranes, roll insulation, coating compositions.
7. Frost-resistant waterproof adhesive for ceramic tiles.
8. Porcelain stoneware, ceramic tiles for outdoor use.

Open terrace: the floor is tiled

When arranging an open terrace, it is imperative to install a drip to drain rainwater. It is advisable to provide for the installation of a gutter along the entire length of the terrace eaves.

Insulation functions: why insulate and isolate the floor from moisture

Each of the layers of waterproofing performs a specific function. Therefore, you should not save on materials; the absence of one of the components can lead to the fact that all the work will have to be redone.

The result of savings on waterproofing: rust and leaking cracks

A vapor barrier film or membrane laid on the floor slab protects the heat-insulating layer. Condensate penetrates from the dwelling through the concrete floor and steam rises. If moisture gets into the thermal protection material, it will significantly increase its thermal conductivity.

The membrane must be brought to a level of up to 20 cm above the floor surface on the terrace wall. Such a solution will protect the walls of the room adjacent to the open area from moisture seepage from the outside.
A layer of expanded polystyrene or mineral insulation with fiberglass protects the room, which is located under the terrace, from heat loss.

Waterproofing installed above the heat-insulating layer prevents the material from getting wet when the screed hardens, protects it from getting wet when the upper layers lose their tightness.

The screed, which is poured over the thermal insulation, must necessarily be sloped. Its task is to direct the streams of rainwater along the slope from the building to the drain. There are 2 options for arranging an inclined surface:

• With one direction of slope from the wall to the edge of the terrace. They organize a single slope on small terraces of residential buildings, loggias and balconies of high-rise buildings.

• Double slope. The method of removing moisture along two slopes from the edges to the center of the terrace: it is used when arranging roof drainage on large areas and exploited roofs. A tray is laid in the center of the site for collecting and draining rainwater, which is connected to a drain.

An elastic waterproofing coating, which is mounted above the cement screed, protects the mortar from water seepage and cracking.

Methods for sealing the surface of terraces

Criteria that must be taken into account when organizing waterproofing of terraces:

• The need for insulation of the base. If there are no heated rooms under the site, you can save on a layer of polystyrene foam.

Diagram of a waterproofing device without insulation

• The choice of decorative coating. Options: laying ceramic tiles, mounting boards, pouring a polymer floor.

Flooring on the terrace in a new house

Are you planning to build a house with a terrace above the ground floor? Make sure that the builders install the floor slabs under the sloped terrace - you don't have to make a slope in the screed, which creates an additional load on the base.

Choose your flooring material. If laying tiles, stone, porcelain stoneware is provided, consider the possibility of a heating device. The heating electric cable under the adhesive layer will increase the service life of the decorative coating. Tiles heated from below will not swell or crack. In addition, in winter it will not be necessary to clean the site from snow.

Option: instead of tiles - polymer fill

In addition to facing materials, bulk polymeric waterproofing mixtures and roll materials are used as the top layer. Laying synthetic elastic materials saves a lot of work time.

It should be noted that over time the surface will lose its luster. Elastic materials do not tolerate mechanical damage. After a few years, the floor will have to be repaired.

Site waterproofing without insulation

Terraces adjacent to the house at the ground level or the entrance to the house are equipped without a heat-insulating layer if there is no basement or basement under the site. All other layers of waterproofing are laid according to the standard scheme.

Installation of the base under a wooden platform without insulation

Used as a floor covering:

• A natural stone.

• Ceramic tiles.

• Deck board.

Wooden terraces look luxurious, but the cost of the material is high, because only super-hard rocks with a low coefficient of temperature deformation and moisture absorption are suitable for laying outdoors. The wooden floor will have to be maintained regularly: apply special bio- and moisture-proof impregnations.

Urgent repair of a leaking floor on the terrace

Problems with overlapping on balconies and terraces arise in autumn and winter, when it is not possible to make a full repair. Liquid waterproofing materials are used as emergency measures:

• Coating mixtures and mortars based on cement and polymers with a high degree of adhesion to any type of surface. Such compositions close small holes and cracks well. You can apply the composition in several layers directly on the old coating: concrete or tile.

Leaking areas can be urgently isolated without dismantling the coating

• Bituminous materials: roofing material, coating. It is possible to cover a large area of ​​the current base with a bitumen-based roofing material. There are membranes with an adhesive layer that does not require heating.

Quick sealing of the terrace floor will allow you to postpone repairs until the warm season.

Materials for work: finished products for waterproofing

When choosing materials for waterproofing terraces, it is advisable to select products from the same line of one manufacturer. For work you will need:

• Primer composition. It is applied on cement screeds and concrete bases before laying waterproofing.
• Vapor barrier membrane. Also, roofing material, membranes and bitumen-based roll materials are used as the bottom layer. In a private house, especially if the terrace is adjacent to the living room, it is better to install a film: bituminous canvases emit a pungent odor when heated. The material is bought with a margin to bring the layer to the wall over the entire junction surface.

• Insulation. As a heater, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral mats with fiberglass are suitable. The thickness of the insulation, depending on the characteristics of the material, is up to 20 cm.
• Waterproofing polypropylene or PVC film. The thickness of the material is from 0.2 mm.

Polyethylene waterproofing materials

• Mortar and reinforcing mesh. It is necessary to calculate the amount of mortar for a screed up to 5 cm thick. The length of the side of the cell in the grid is from 10 to 20 cm. The thickness of the rod is from 3 mm. You will also need draft boards and metal corners for expansion joints.
• Elastic cord. Synthetic polymer cord is placed in expansion joints. The thickness of the strips must exceed the width of the seam, and the height must be less than the depth of the seam.

• Basic waterproofing. The choice depends on the type of decorative coating. Under the tile, liquid polymer and mineral compositions are used. Rolled polymeric membranes are also used.

Two-component formulations

• Glue for tiles. Choose frost-resistant products for outdoor use.
• Adhesive-based waterproofing tapes: necessary for processing corners, ledges, baluster bases.

• Silicone sealant. Used to fill gaps between tiles instead of decorative grout.

Step by step: self-waterproofing the floor and walls on the terrace

It is necessary to equip the floor with waterproofing on the terrace in the warm season. The materials that are used have a minimum air temperature limit of +5. It is not recommended to work in the heat, especially pouring the screed. The maximum temperature is from 25 to 28 o.

Foundation preparation

Before starting work, you will have to completely dismantle the old decorative coating: tiles, roofing material. It is necessary to clean the surface to concrete. After cleaning, the floor is carefully examined.

The old cover must be removed.

All cracks must be expanded, expanding them deep into and to the sides. Remove the old solution to a solid base.
Cracks, bumps, cracks must be sealed with a waterproof solution. Before repair, the edges of the defects are treated with soil so that the repair mortar is firmly held in the cavities.

After repairing the defects, the base is leveled. If the surface is severely damaged, it makes sense to make a leveling layer of concrete pouring with the necessary slope from the wall.

Fixing strips of primary insulation

After the base has dried and the solution has set, a vapor barrier is laid on the surface. The strips of film are overlapped, grabbing the edges with adhesive tape. The edges are folded onto the wall and fixed with insulating tape at a height of 15 - 20 cm.

Thermal insulation is laid on the film base. Make sure that there are no gaps between the sheets. Sheets are laid tightly end to end.

A waterproofing film is laid on top of the expanded polystyrene layer. The edges are wrapped and fixed on the wall: at the same height as the vapor barrier. Along the bottom edge, the film is wrapped under thermal protection sheets.

Screed: pouring rules

The next layer is a cement screed. The layer thickness is from 3 to 5 cm. Formwork is formed along the edges of the site. Lay the reinforcing mesh. It is advisable to add special compounds to the solution that improve the characteristics of the coating: setting time decreases, resistance to temperature changes increases.

Screed on the terrace: formwork and reinforcement layer

After pouring the solution, it is necessary to lay the strips to form the seams. Expansion joints are left in order to protect the base from cracking and deformation. Planks are laid around the perimeter along the walls. The width of the seam at the wall should not be less than 15 mm.

Installed elastic divider in expansion joint

Metal strips 12 mm thick are laid along the platform to a depth of up to 2/3 of the thickness of the screed. The step between the seams is from 1.5 m.

Remove the strips after the solution has solidified. An elastic cord is laid in the resulting slots, pressing tightly.

Waterproof layer: 3 ways to protect against water

Before laying the waterproofing on the terrace, the surface of the screed is treated with a penetrating primer. When choosing liquid materials, several layers are applied to obtain a total waterproofing layer with a thickness of 2 to 4 mm.

Coating with tape treatment of adjoining surfaces

There are 2 types of liquid materials:

• Ready compositions. Applied with a spatula, no thinning required.

• two component mixtures. Apply after mixing and mixing the components.

Layers are applied with a brush, roller or spatula, intermittently. For the initial setting, the material takes about 4 hours. Complete drying occurs in 8 hours. When working with liquid materials, it is necessary to choose the right weather: do not allow the layers to get wet until completely dry.
Professional waterproofing polymer compositions are applied with special sprayers. You can choose liquid bulk mixtures that are leveled with spatulas.

Applying a waterproofing compound

Before applying waterproofing, it is necessary to carefully glue difficult areas with insulating tape: in the corners, at the junction of surfaces.

Roll materials can be stacked in 2 ways:

• For the adhesive.

• Without applying glue under the material.

Laying waterproofing on adhesive mortar

The edges of the canvases are laid end-to-end on the fixing tape. Make sure that when rolling the roll, the canvas does not wrinkle, and wrinkles do not form. The main waterproofing on the terrace is raised to the adjoining walls so as to cover the edges of the vapor barrier and the film laid on the insulation.

If the installation of a heating cable is planned, then the cable is laid on top of the insulating layer.

Facing laying

Laying tiles begins after the final drying of the applied waterproofing materials.

Primary requirements:

• Only materials for outdoor use can be used.

• Do not grout the seams between the tiles with standard decorative grout. It is better to fill the gaps with an elastic frost-resistant sealant.

• If the area of ​​the terrace is more than 20 sq. m, then it is necessary to make a gap between the tiles - an expansion joint. It is desirable that the seam separates surfaces of equal area.

Video lesson: balcony insulation in a frame house

The amount of work that needs to be done in order to qualitatively waterproof the terrace is quite large.

It is necessary to strictly observe the installation technology of each of the layers, to calculate the correct slope. Be sure to allow time for the solutions to set. It is worth doing repairs on your own only when arranging small areas - balconies, loggias. When equipping the floor of a large terrace, especially above the living rooms of the lower floor, it is better not to risk it - a mistake can cost much more than the services of experienced professionals.

Return