The procedure for installing interior doors with your own hands. Guide to self-installation of interior doors Installation of double doors

There are many doors on the market, the installation of which, in principle, is not a very complicated technical process; it requires knowledge of some details during assembly and installation. The installed door structure should not open spontaneously, nor close using significant mechanical forces. Finally, the doors must be durable and not fall apart at the slightest bang.

Types of interior doors

First you need to understand the types of doors, which are classified according to the material from which they are made:

• The most popular option for interior doors is wooden construction. A door made of solid wood will always look attractive and solid; it has a very long service life even with careless handling;
• Veneered doors are widely used due to their relatively low cost and lightness. In addition, they are made from natural material and are of high quality;
• Laminated doors and PVC doors are also popular in the building materials market. They are inexpensive and sold everywhere. Covered with a special film, they are resistant to moisture and mechanical damage. In addition, they are light and quite durable;
• Metal-plastic doors are also in demand today. For interior structures, they are made to match the color of the wood. These are very durable and lightweight doors.

Four main types of interior doors

Door frame and trim material

The material of the door frame and trim is often made of fiberboard (in fact, it is pressed paper). This design has minimal strength, because the fiberboard plank can bend under its own weight. Installing doors with it requires maximum care, and during operation the frames and trim can easily be damaged. Fiberboard platbands are inexpensive and light in weight. Fiberboard is not suitable for hanging high-quality door leaves; in such cases it is better to use wood.

Natural wood without treatment is profiled edged boards. This is a strong enough base on which interior doors can be hung, but it needs sanding, painting or varnishing.

Covering and design options for interior doors made of solid oak

When choosing wood laminated with plastic or veneer as platbands and a door frame, you should make sure of the proper thickness and quality of the coating. For large doorways, an additional trim may be needed.

Tools and Supplies

To install the door structure, you need to stock up on the following power tools:

• Hammer;
• Bulgarian;
• Drill;
• Screwdriver;
• Electric jigsaw or hand router.

Also, for hanging it will be necessary to have a hand tool:

• Hammer;
• Axe;
• Crowbar or mallet;
• Chisels;
• Construction knife;
• Straight and Phillips screwdrivers;
• Hacksaws.

For measurements you will need:

• Corner;
• Roulette;
• Building level.

You can’t do without attachments and consumables:

• Wood drill;
• Feather drill;
• Drill for concrete;
• Phillips bit attachments;
• Spacer bars;
• Wooden pegs;
• Polyurethane foam;
• Wood screws and dowels for them.

Additional tools and consumables may be needed if the door frame is not carefully dismantled; in this case, putty and a spatula will be required.

Preparation for work

Before installing the door, you will need to remove the old door structure, which is attached to the walls with nails, screws or ribs of stone or brickwork. You can knock out the block with a sledgehammer, but there is a danger of damaging the walls, which will require their restoration. It is best to cut the fasteners and remove the box carefully and without loss.

Removing the old door frame

First you will need to separate the trim and remove the door from its hinges. Before cutting or unscrewing fasteners, you will need to clear the space between the door frame and the wall from the plaster. To do this you will need a hammer and chisel. Try not to seriously touch the masonry. Cut fasteners from top to bottom. Doors come on a metal frame, which is secured to the base with bolts. Before sawing the fasteners, you must first unscrew the bolts.

The old door frame is sawn and removed from the doorway

Now that there is nothing holding the box, you can remove it using a mallet or a small crowbar. There are times when the box is held tightly in the opening, then it is necessary to cut it into pieces and remove it in fragments. The vacated opening must be cleaned of all unnecessary things, after which it is ready for the installation of a new door structure.

Sequence of work

The installation of interior doors must follow a certain sequence, which guarantees the correct installation process.

Assembling the door frame

You can easily assemble the door frame by following the instructions. First, you need to carefully unpack the box with the kit, carefully opening the container with a knife without scratching it. The kit should contain:

• Loop beam;
• Ceiling or top beam;
• The narthex

First, the new door frame is assembled on the floor, all its parts, including the trim on one side, are connected with self-tapping screws

There are several methods for connecting these components of a door frame assembly. When making a tenon connection, you will need to saw the tenons onto the elements of the box, and in the future you will need to align them with the corresponding grooves on the opposite part.

When sawing door frame segments at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees, using a chisel, the elements to be joined are trimmed and fixed using self-tapping screws. After marking the holes for them, the parts are again disassembled to install the hinges.

The places where door hinges need to be placed are marked with a pencil on a block. They are determined by looking at the placement of hinges on the door leaf. After connecting the upper fittings on the vertical bar and the canvas, you need to determine the location of the lower hinges.

The installation of the door frame ends with the connection of the hinge and lintel wooden beams along pre-marked holes. Craftsmen advise assembling the doorway on a solid and level base, for example, on the floor. All parts must be connected with self-tapping screws, and then the assembled structure must be carefully inspected for flaws. If there are none, you need to start installing the door frame in the opening.

Fastening should be done using previously removed plastic elements. Hammer them in using a peg so as not to damage the box. Displaced planks must be returned to their place with a light blow of a hammer.

If special fasteners are not included in the design, assembly is carried out using self-tapping screws.

In fiberboard, self-tapping screws must be screwed into pre-prepared holes with a diameter of at least 0.5 mm. For example, for 2.5 mm screws, take a 2 mm drill.

It is recommended to mark the location for fastening exactly in the middle of the end of the vertical segment. The end strips must be stretched in a strict straight line; if inconsistencies occur, you must turn the required part over with the other end.

The bottom of the box should be secured with a special spacer bar. Measure the width with a tape measure, apply a wooden strip and fix it in places that will not be visible during installation.

Checking the distance between the sides and assembling the bottom of the door frame using a special spacer strip

The screw must not be screwed in at the edge of the plank, as splitting may occur. The fastening should be done at an angle and not completely, avoiding distortions, which is controlled by the angle.

Preparing the doorway

When preparing the doorway, you need to consider the following:

• The door frame should be 1-3 cm smaller than the doorway, and polyurethane foam will be needed to fill the remaining distance;
• The opening should be strengthened along the width of the doorway, this will require clamping horizontal and vertical bars to avoid instability, and the brickwork and plaster should be sealed with mortar;
• Along the perimeter, the depth of the doorway should be the same; for this, putty, plaster or drywall are used;
• The contact of floor coverings at the junction should take place in the middle of the canvas, since in other cases both coverings will be visible from one room;
• The opening located at the perpendicular wall must be redesigned in advance, otherwise complex work will be necessary with cutting the trim along the length, etc.

Installing the assembled frame in the doorway

To install the assembled frame in the door yourself, you need to follow the following procedure:

• Attach the posts perpendicularly to the ceiling with self-tapping screws. When installing MDF doors, it is necessary to pre-drill holes for screws to avoid cracking;
• Place the box in the opening and secure it with spacers and wedges;
• Use a building level to level the structure and then secure it with screws;
• Hang the door leaf on the hinges. Installation of the box will not be complete without checking the quality and eliminating installation flaws, if any;
• At the next stage, you will need to close the door and place spacers between the door leaf and the opening; this will protect the structure from being squeezed out when pouring foam.

Diagram of installation and fastening of door frame parts in the opening

Finally, blow foam into the gaps between the wall and the frame. When the foam hardens, the spacers are removed. Now you need to install the platbands. To do this, cut a 45-degree angle and place the parts in the proper place. Secure with self-tapping screws, glue or finishing nails.

The screws are covered with decorative caps, and the nails are rubbed down. That's it, the door frame installation is complete.

Box fastening

To attach the box, you need to level its position with a level. Mark the connection points with the wall, on the planks and on the wall itself.

Remove the end decorative strip and drill 5-6 holes on both sides with a drill at a distance of 30-50 cm.

Remove the box from the opening. Drill holes in the thickness of the wall with a hammer drill using a 0.6 cm drill. Drive dowels into them. Take a drill 2-3 cm more dowels, since sand from concrete or brick collects in the hole. This will not block the dowel.

Installing a door lock

When installing a lock, you need to take into account the level of other locks and handles in the apartment. To do this, the position of the lower edge is marked from the bottom of the door leaf by a whole number (80 or 90 cm).

Attach the lock to the end of the door exactly in the middle and mark along the contour. Remove the top layer with a router with a projection of 0.2-0.3 cm. If you don’t have a router, you can use a chisel and a hammer.

The lock body will require a larger recess. To do this, take a feather drill of the required diameter. If the working part is wide, drill several holes, removing the partitions with a chisel.

We prepare the seat for the door lock by making a recess on the end part of the door leaf using a chisel and hammer

The lock is tried on the door facade at the fastening point and the position of the handle is marked. Drill with a suitable drill.

You need to put a lock in the groove and attach it to the end. Install part of the lock - the core, attach the handles, securing with clamps and pins.

Attaching hinges with fitting occurs in a similar way. The excess layer is removed using a router or chisel. They do the same with the box.

We fasten the hinges using self-tapping screws; if the doors are made of MDF, then first you need to drill holes in the fastening points

To accurately mark the location of the door hinges, screw them to the door leaf and put the door in place. Mark the places of contact with the box with a pencil.

Installing the lock plate

Hang the door leaf on the hinges and close. On the opposite bar, mark the location of the lock tongue. Use a chisel to cut out the excess layer. Screw on the metal strip.

The gaps between the door and the frame should not be more than 0.2-0.3 cm.

Fastening platbands and additional strips

The usual width of the door frame is 0.75 cm, which is quite enough for installing the door into the partition. If the door is placed in a load-bearing wall, then finish the open surface with plaster or additional trim. It should be secured with glue like liquid nails. You can also use decorative attachments on screws.

The very last stage is the installation of platbands covering the assembly seam. Installation is carried out using screws with decorative plugs or nails without heads.

Self-assembly and installation of interior door units does not require highly qualified or special skills from the performer. Sequential connection of parts in accordance with the instructions and careful installation in the doorway will allow you to obtain a satisfactory result even with the efforts of a novice. You just need to stock up on the necessary tools and patience.

Methods for installing interior doors

There are different ways to install a door between rooms. It all depends on what its design is and what material the door block is made of. A significant role in choosing one installation method or another is played by its intended purpose. If this is, for example, a door to the living room, then special strength is not required. But if the door separates the passage corridor from the server room, in which high-sensitivity devices or units with voltages exceeding 1000 volts are located, then in the interests of safety it is advisable to install a high-strength door. Accordingly, the installation method in the second case must meet completely different requirements.

There are the following methods of fastening a door block in an opening.

1. Fixing the frame on the mounting foam. The simplest, but not the most reliable installation method. Suitable for lightweight doors made of small fiberboard or MDF.

   When dry, the polyurethane foam firmly glues the door frame to the wall opening

2. Installing the door frame on brackets. As a rule, all plastic doors (as well as windows) are installed in this way. Metal plates, which are used for suspended ceilings, are used as brackets. The thickness of the direct suspension ranges from 1 to 1.5 mm, so the mount is quite rigid. The main disadvantage of this method is the need to plaster the place where the bracket is attached. The method is applicable when the walls have not yet been finished.

   Ceiling hanger is used as a bracket to fix the door frame

3. Hidden installation, i.e. fixing the door frame under the hinges in three places. The rest of the space is filled with foam. The result is a fairly strong and invisible mount to prying eyes. The frame suspension points are located in the following order:
   • two - under the hinges;
   • one is under the counter lock plate.
4. End-to-end method. Installation is carried out using screws or anchors. Holes are drilled in the frame through which it is attached to the wall. Typically, two to four fixation points are used on each vertical post and one to two on the vertical bars. To prevent the holes from being visible, they are covered with plastic plugs on top. This fastening is considered the most durable and is used for heavy doors, including metal and armored ones.

   With direct fixation, the frame is firmly attached to the wall and can support a heavy and powerful door

5. Fixing the door frame on hinges. A new method developed relatively recently. Its essence is that the box is suspended on special hinges. Anchors are installed at the ends of the opening, and metal hinges are screwed onto the frame. During installation, the loop is placed on the head of the adjustable bolt. This method is good in cases where the doorway is uneven. Installation is very fast.

   A set of simple fasteners allows you to install the door in a matter of minutes

In practice, several methods are often used simultaneously, and they also combine and combine fixation methods depending on the specific situation. In any case, polyurethane foam is almost always used today; it serves not only as fasteners, but also as a heat-insulating and sound-absorbing layer.

Video: technology for quickly installing doors in 15 minutes

What is required to install an interior door

As with any other installation work, for the successful installation of interior doors you need special tools and consumables.

Required Tools

When starting to independently install interior doors, you need to arm yourself with the appropriate tools:

• electric drill with a set of attachments (for screws with various slots);
• a set of wood drills (the larger the range, the better);

  A distinctive feature of a wood drill is its sharp tip.

• hammer drill (if fastening is carried out on anchor devices);
• electric or hand furniture saw (ideal - miter circular saw);

  Using a miter saw, blanks for the door frame, trim and additional elements are quickly and efficiently prepared

• Pobedit drills or drills for concrete (diameter 4 and 6 mm);
• miter box, a set of chisels of different widths;

  The miter box is designed for cutting parts at different angles

• measuring instrument - hydraulic level, tape measure, square, etc.;

  The accuracy of measurements during the assembly of interior doors is reflected in the quality of their further operation.

• knife, pencil, marker.

You will also need consumables:

What cutters are needed to install interior doors

If you have the opportunity to purchase or rent a router, you should definitely take advantage of it. Using a hand router, selecting hinges and locks is significantly faster. There is no need for chisels, and the quality of the grooves improves. In order to optimize the process, it is advisable to use small diameter cutters. Thanks to this, you will have to cut less wood at the corners by hand. For example, a cutter with a diameter of 9.5 mm is ideal for door hinges. To remove the lock, a groove cutter of appropriate length is used (to the depth of insertion of the locking device).

The main characteristics of a groove cutter include the height and diameter of its working part, as well as the size of the shank for clamping the router

The average installation time for one door for a professional carpenter is 2 hours. If the hinges and lock are cut manually without using a router, this time increases to 3 hours.

Box trim saw

A few words about the electric saw. When installing one door, of course, there is no point in buying a “circular”, especially an end door. You can use a regular hand saw with a fine (furniture) tooth.

Using a saw with small, straight teeth, you can make even and clean cuts of parts.

But if there is construction or reconstruction of an entire apartment in which from 5 to 15 doors are installed, you can at least think about renting tools. The quality and speed of assembly using a miter saw increases several times. Much also depends on the type of doors and trim. Some have to be adjusted to the required dimensions, others require virtually no cutting.

Preparing the opening for installing an interior door

The main task when preparing a doorway is to:

• removing excess materials from the end of the wall (residues of polyurethane foam, plaster, broken bricks, etc.);
• creating the correct geometric shape of the hole in the wall (rectangle, not trapezoid).

If the brickwork is in poor condition, it must be plastered with cement mortar.

In new buildings, doorways should theoretically have dimensions close to standard. However, in practice this does not always happen. In a house or apartment where reconstruction is taking place, the old doors must be dismantled before installing new ones. If the opening is damaged, it must be restored - leveled and plastered.

The quality of installation of the door block is influenced by the following geometric parameters of the opening.

Height

The height is measured from the “clean floor”, i.e. from the level of the finishing floor covering - laminate, tiles, linoleum, etc. It is necessary that the height is the same over the entire plane. A similar requirement is imposed on the floor - there should be no bumps or holes on it, especially if the door being installed does not contain a threshold in its design - all defects will remain visible. The height of the opening should be 6–7 cm greater than the vertical size of the door itself.

The dimensions of the doorway must take into account technological tolerances for installing the frame and the required installation clearances

Width

The width of the opening is subject to similar requirements - it must be the same along the entire height of the door. Vertical planes should be located at right angles to the floor and be parallel. If this is not the case, the sidewalls need to be leveled. The width of the doorway is determined based on the width of the door leaf - 10 cm is added to it (5 cm on each side).

Thickness (or depth) of the opening

An important condition that must be observed when preparing the opening is that the end must have a rectangular shape. In the lower part, at the intersection with the floor, a right angle (90°) should be formed. If the thickness of the walls is not the same, cracks will form under the platbands, which, in fact, is a defect.

Video: preparing a doorway before installing an interior door

Do-it-yourself interior door installation: step-by-step instructions

Since the vast majority of doors in everyday life have a swing design, let’s consider the installation procedure using the example of a typical interior door.

The most common type of interior doors has a swing opening mechanism

Rules and procedure for installing interior doors

Installation of a swing interior door is carried out in the following order.

1. Development of a scheme for fastening the door frame in the opening. At this stage, it is necessary to clearly imagine (or better yet, sketch) the method of fastening. In our case, this will be fixation with self-tapping screws and polyurethane foam. It is also necessary to decide on the side into which the door will open. If there is no pre-thought-out plan, the following hint will help solve the problem: in small rooms, such as a toilet, pantry and bath, it is customary to open the door inward. It is better to exit to the corridors from large rooms outside.

   The most common way to fix the frame in a doorway is to install it using an anchor on mounting foam.

2. Door frame installation. It is advisable to place the door that arrives from the store on a flat horizontal surface - a table, chairs or on the floor and unpack it. Assembly is carried out using 3.5 mm thick wood screws. Before screwing in the self-tapping screw, it is necessary to drill a hole that will prevent the wood piece (fibreboard, MDF, chipboard) from splitting. A drill of a smaller diameter is used, in particular 3 mm. For the same reasons, there is no need to screw the screws close to the edge of the parts - the standard distance is at least 5 diameters, i.e. 1.5 cm. To securely fasten the horizontal strips of the door frame, four screws are enough - two on each side.

   When assembling the frame on the floor, place cardboard from the packaging under the box

3. Trimming posts. Typically, a door frame is sold with a height margin of 5–7 cm. After fixing the side parts, it is necessary to measure the exact size and cut off the excess. To do this, the height of the opening is measured and transferred to the frame. It should be taken into account that there should be a technological gap of 2–2.5 cm between the frame and the wall. This gap is needed so that the frame can be aligned horizontally and vertically inside the opening.

   The length of the side posts is adjusted after measuring the height of the opening

4. Installing the frame in the doorway. If until this moment the door leaf was inside the frame, then to install the frame into the wall, the leaf must be removed. The frame is installed in the designated place and leveled using a level. Primary fixation is performed using plastic or wooden wedges. It is very convenient to use a set of thin wedges; with their help you can accurately align the box along all axes. It should be remembered that the racks of the box must be vertical in two perpendicular planes - from the side of the canvas and from the side of the wall. Proper operation of the door block depends 80% on the correct position of the door frame. A number of models of interior doors have a special decorative strip, which is disconnected and mounting holes are drilled under it. Upon completion of installation, the bar is put in place. To secure the frame with screws, you need to drill 3-4 holes with a diameter of 4 mm on each rack and transfer them to the wall with a pencil or marker. After this, the box is removed and sockets for dowels are drilled in the wall according to the markings. Do not forget that wood drills do not work in concrete. The brickwork is drilled with a hammer drill and a stone drill. The diameter of the drill is 6 mm, the size of the plastic sleeve. When the holes are ready and the dowels are inserted into the wall, the frame returns to its original position and is pre-fixed (“baited,” as the craftsmen say). Before the final tightening of the screws, the position of the vertical and horizontal parts of the box is checked again. Tightening is done in a circle, first tightening the screws half-heartedly, then with maximum force. In order not to overtighten the fasteners, during tightening the verticality of the racks is checked with a long two-meter level or rule.

   The use of a construction laser level increases the accuracy of door frame installation

5. Installing the door leaf on the hinges. Since we are considering a lightweight interior door made of MDF or fiberboard, one person can hang the door on its hinges. It is enough to lift the door above the awnings and carefully place the hinges on the axis. After this, the door leaf must be closed and checked for correct positioning. If the door is installed in compliance with all technological standards (3-4 mm gaps on each side), it will move inside the frame easily and without effort on the part of a person. When open, the sash will not slam shut spontaneously, and when closed, it will not open. If the purchased door does not have recesses for hinges, you will need to make them yourself. To do this, a cutter is inserted into the tool, the depth of immersion into the wood is adjusted, and a groove is selected according to a pre-marked size using a translational movement. The accepted location of the hinges is 20–25 cm from the upper and lower edges of the sash.

   The hinges are placed at the top and bottom at the same distance from the edges of the door leaf

6. Filling the seams with polyurethane foam. This is a crucial moment, since such important door parameters as sound insulation and heat resistance depend on the filling density. It is better to use polyurethane foam with a low expansion coefficient. To speed up the setting and hardening of the polyurethane, the walls and door frame are moistened with water (sprayed from a spray bottle). Filling is done sequentially, from bottom to top, so that there are no voids left, but at the same time foam flakes do not fall on the floor. During the operation, it is advisable to cover the door with film, since prolonged contact with polyurethane can cause stains to appear on the laminated surface. As the foam dries, it increases in volume, so the seams are initially filled by 30–40%. After complete hardening (after 24 hours at an air temperature of 20 o C), the excess is cut off with a sharp knife. It is not recommended to open the door leaf during foaming and drying. It is advisable to insert pieces of packaging cardboard into the gaps (along the perimeter). This will prevent deformation and sagging of the frame if there is too much foam.

   It is better to fill installation gaps with foam from the bottom up, carefully treating the voids

7. Doorway trim. Upon completion of the door installation, it is necessary to tidy up the opening. To do this, slopes or platbands are installed in it. For interior doors, finishing with slopes is rarely done (although this is also practiced, depending on the installation location and the function of the door). The most common type of finishing is platbands and extensions. If the size of the wall is small and the width of the door frame coincides with it, platbands are installed on both sides and the finishing of the opening ends there. If the width of the box is not enough to cover the wall completely, add-ons are used. With their help, the plane of the frame expands, and the platbands are no longer attached to the frame, but to the extensions. It’s interesting that designers sometimes deliberately select colors for the extensions that contrast with the color of the door. Such solutions are original in nature and emphasize the door as an element of the interior. Installation of platbands is carried out in several ways, depending on their design:
   • groove connection;
   • gluing to the wall;
   • hidden nails.
8. Installation of accessories. The door handle and lock are usually included with the door. Or at least installation holes are prepared in the canvas. If they are not there, you need to mark the sash and use a router and electric drill to cut holes of the required size (for pre-purchased components). You should follow the instructions for installing the lock and door handle, which are included with the products. The approximate installation height of the door lock is 90–110 cm from the floor. The handle is mounted at the same height, 10–15 cm away from the edge of the door leaf.

   The method of installing a door lock depends on its design, and it is usually located at a height of 90–110 cm from the floor

The type of connection between vertical platbands and horizontal ones can be different - rectangular or diagonal. From an installation point of view, a rectangular connection is considered simpler. For a diagonal joint, it is important to accurately cut the workpieces at an angle of 45 degrees. For this, craftsmen use a miter circular saw. But for small volumes, you can also use a carpenter’s miter box.

The diagonal connection of the platbands requires a perfectly even cut at an angle of 45 degrees, which is carried out using a miter box or a circular saw

Many modern models of interior doors contain a rubber seal in their design. Its installation is most often carried out by gluing. The protective film is removed from the inside, and the seal is carefully glued around the perimeter of the entire door leaf.

Video: how to properly install an interior door

Installation of double doors

Double-leaf door blocks are a popular interior decoration. They fit especially harmoniously into wide doorways and emphasize the spaciousness of the room. Doors with two leaves are:

When assembling swing double doors, the algorithm remains the same as for a single leaf door. But there is one nuance associated with the door suspension. The first to be installed on the hinges is the sash with the latch, which is cut into the upper part of the leaf ahead of time. After installing the sash on the hinges, fix it with a latch and begin installing the other half of the door. In this way, the alignment of the canvases is achieved in relation to the frame and among themselves. The gaps adopted for a single-leaf door are also relevant for the double-leaf version.

The latch holds the door leaf in a stationary position

The sliding design of double doors is different in that it does not have a frame in the usual sense. The door leaves are supported by a suspended profile equipped with a rocker mechanism. Naturally, the installation of such a door differs from the assembly of swing structures. Installation is carried out on straight walls with sufficient space (space is needed for opening doors).

Around the sliding door you need to provide a reserve of free space for those leaving when opening the racks

Installation begins with the assembly and fastening of guide profiles (which can be either on top or below the doorway). Next, the procedure must be carried out in this sequence.

1. Mounting brackets with fittings (carriages and movable rollers) on canvas.

   A diagram of fastening the door leaf to the rocker mechanism indicating the weight of the door leaf is attached to each product

2. Installation of sashes on the hanging mechanism.
3. Fastening stoppers (rubber opening limiters).

   Using the limiter, the free movement of the door leaf is adjusted to protect it from impacts on nearby objects and surfaces

4. Installation of extensions and platbands on the doorway.
5. Installation of additional door hardware (brushes, seals, grips).

At the preparatory stage, the wall plane is marked and leveled. This is important because the door leaves are constantly moving along the walls.

The main document that you need to read when installing sliding doors is the assembly instructions from the manufacturer. It reflects the technical requirements for installation and basic operating rules.

Video: installing a double swing door

It is customary to install interior doors after finishing work has been carried out in the room. In particular, it is not recommended to prime, plaster or paint the walls after installing the doors. High humidity has a negative effect on wood-based particle material - deformation and bending of the structural elements of the door block are possible.

Installation of interior sliding doors

A sliding door is one of the options for sliding interior doors. Unlike a double-leaf design, an interior sliding door can be single-leaf, three-leaf or even four-leaf. Moreover, one or two canvases can move. Installation is carried out in the same order as for a sliding door in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Sliding doors save space in small spaces

Video: installation of interior sliding doors

Installation of sliding door structures

A characteristic feature of sliding interior doors is the movement of the door leaf along a support profile located on the floor. Installation is carried out after finishing the floor. The guide profile is installed in parquet, laminate, ceramic tiles or other floor covering. Often the door leaf is hidden in a wall cavity specially prepared for this purpose.

Before installing the sliding door, a false wall is built to hide the door

There are options for making a false wall or a plasterboard box for sliding interior doors. But in any case, the suspension mechanism remains identical to that of all other types of sliding doors.

Video: installation of sliding interior doors

Installation of sliding interior doors

Sliding interior doors save space in small rooms. But their installation requires certain conditions, the main one of which is the availability of space to move the door leaf. Sliding doors can be single-leaf or double-leaf. The supporting rocker mechanism is usually located on top, and a restrictive profile is mounted below, which prevents the canvas from swaying during movement.

When planning, various options for positioning the canvas in the doorway are used.

Installation of glass doors

Glass doors are a very original solution for interior decoration. Like doors made of other materials, they come in swing and sliding types. In private residential construction, swing type glass doors are usually used. In general, the principle and procedure for their installation does not differ from the standard one, but there are several features.

1. The glass door leaf cannot be adjusted to dimensions; it cannot be sawed or cut. Therefore, to avoid mistakes, doors are ordered after finishing the walls and doorway (when the dimensions will no longer change).
2. Installing a door is not a task you can do alone. The weight of the glass sheet is usually from 50 to 70 kg; it is difficult and dangerous for one person to manipulate such a sash.
3. A glass interior door is mounted on a wooden or metal frame.
4. The durability of glass doors is limited only by the wear resistance of the hinges. Pendulum hinges are considered the most reliable.

To assemble the glass door hanger, mounting holes are cut in the door leaf at the factory.

Holes for installing hinges are cut at the glass door manufacturer. You need to drill holes for the lock and handle yourself, using a glass drill of the required diameter.

Holes in the glass are drilled with special drills at low speeds

The advantage of glass interior doors is their almost unlimited service life. Their appearance is not subject to mechanical or chemical influence, the strength of the glass block is comparable to the strength of metal. The only thing that needs to be monitored is the safety of the hinges and fittings. Timely lubrication and removal of contamination are two necessary conditions for long-term operation of glass interior doors.

Video: installation of glass interior doors

Installation of fittings on interior doors

Installation of fittings is perhaps the most crucial moment in installing interior doors. It is when performing this part of the work that errors occur, leading to rapid breakdowns. Therefore, when starting self-assembly, you need to get ready for painstaking “jewelry” work. Mistakes are too expensive.

So, the accessories include:

All elements of fittings require precise insertion into the plane of the door leaf or frame, and this presents a certain difficulty for novice carpenters. The permissible error cannot be exceeded by more than 1 mm. Otherwise, there are no firm guarantees for the stable operation of the mechanisms.

Sampling is done manually (with chisels) or using power tools. At this stage of work, a manual electric router is used.

Thanks to its high-speed operation, the router makes neat and clean cuts in wood

Sequence of work

Installation of fittings on a swing interior door is carried out in the following order.

1. Marking. Before you start cutting the hole, you need to determine where to install the hinges. As noted above, in order to evenly distribute the weight of the door leaf, the hinges are located symmetrically 20–25 cm from the edges of the door leaf. The contours of the loop are drawn with a sharp pencil and outlined around the perimeter with a knife, scalpel or semicircular chisel.

   It is advisable to outline the contour of the loop with a sharp pencil, thin awl or scalpel

2. Arranging a seat for hinges. Using a chisel, wood is gradually removed from the intended contour. It is necessary to control the groove depth within 2–3 mm. The accuracy of the cut is checked with a loop - when placing it in the designated place, the front part of the fittings must coincide with the surface of the door end. When selecting hinges in MDF doors, the manual method is ineffective; it is advisable to use a router with a small diameter cutter.
   

   The hinges should be flush with the surface of the fabric

3. Preparing recesses in the frame. Having made the grooves and installed hinges in them, they proceed to the manufacture of similar seats in the door frame.
4. Installing an interior door handle. The operation consists of cutting out a seat for the lock and a hole for installing a rotary handle. It is difficult to do without a router here, especially for a person who does not have carpentry experience. Using a long cutter, select a groove of a certain depth for the lock. A small cutter is used to cut out the countersunk for the lock escutcheon and the strike plate. To accurately determine the location of the locking tongue, it is smeared with a coloring substance (nail polish, chalk, paint) and released onto the frame. A hole in the counter plate is installed in the designated location.

   The grooves for the door lock are made using a router

5. Installation of the latch. It is carried out depending on the design of the locking element. As a rule, installing a high-quality latch involves cutting out a masking groove. The device is applied to the edge of the door leaf, its shape is outlined and a groove is cut along it.

Video: inserting a lock into interior doors

How to check the correct installation of an interior door

Anyone who has to install interior doors for the first time asks questions: is the door installed correctly and what needs to be done to make it last long and properly. There is a comprehensive answer to them, which consists of two points.

1. A sign of correctly carried out installation is the same technological gaps around the perimeter of the entire canvas. This means that if the gap around the sash is the same size everywhere, the canvas is hung correctly.
2. The door must pass a small test. When opening (and closing) the canvas, no extraneous sounds, creaks, or rustles (friction of one surface against another) should be heard. The sash moves easily, without any effort. If the hand stops, the canvas also stops; it should not move on its own.

If these two conditions are met, the door is installed in accordance with technical and operational standards.

Often the installation of an interior door is preceded by dismantling. Disassembly is carried out in the reverse order of assembly.

1. Decorative elements are detached - platbands and extensions. To do this, use a pry bar or a large screwdriver. Decorative elements can be reused, so do not break them during dismantling. If these parts are kept intact, they can be painted, covered with laminated film and used when installing a new door.

   Platbands are removed using a pry bar or an ax

2. The fittings - locks and handles - are removed from the door leaf. The lock is unscrewed from the end of the door leaf. The rotary handle mount is located on one side of the door (at the bottom of the lever).
3. The door leaf is removed. To do this, open the sash at an angle of 90 o relative to the frame and lift it by the lower edge using a crowbar, pry bar or other lever. Once the fabric is removed from the hinges, the awnings can be detached and reused.

   To remove the fabric from the hinges, turn it at an angle of 90 degrees and lift it using a lever

4. The door frame is removed. To disassemble the frame with the least effort, it is necessary to determine where it is fixed to the wall. Sometimes this is difficult to do with old doors, especially if the opening has slopes made of cement mortar. Then a regular electric jigsaw will come to the rescue. If the frame is not planned to be used in the future, it can be cut in cross section and separated from the wall in parts. This greatly speeds up the dismantling process. The top crossbar is also released in the same way.

   Using power tools speeds up door dismantling several times faster

If you do not have firm confidence in your abilities, of course, it is better to turn to professional installers, because correct assembly and installation is not the only, but a necessary condition for long-term operation of interior doors. But if you have at least a little experience in carpentry, and the operations described in this article do not give you any doubt about the possibility of repeating them, feel free to start installing the door yourself. You can save money and be absolutely sure of the quality of every action.

Interior doors are an important part of any room. They serve not only to divide the living space, but also perform the function of sound and thermal insulation. Beautiful, stylish doors emphasize the harmony and individuality of the interior. The correct procedure for installing interior doors guarantees high performance capabilities.

You can find a large selection of similar products in stores. But the doors themselves and their installation can cost quite a tidy sum. Therefore, installing interior doors with your own hands is not only a matter of self-expression, but also of saving.

How to choose the right door?

When choosing a door, you need to choose the right size. To do this, you need to measure the size of the doorway. When determining the dimensions of interior doors, you should take into account the gaps between the base of the opening and the door frame, and the leaf and frame itself. This is necessary to prevent the door from deforming when humidity increases.

The standard door height is two meters. Width – 60–90 centimeters.

Preparation for installation

To prevent the door between two rooms from creaking or being warped, you must first properly prepare the doorway.

1. First you need to remove the old material and remove the door frame.
2. The resulting opening must be cleaned and all irregularities removed.
3. Before purchasing doors, measure the opening correctly. Be sure to take into account the possible amount of foam and the unevenness of the walls.
4. Before installing the doors, you need to level the floor. The difference in measurements between two horizontal points of the plane should not exceed three millimeters.

How to install a door frame correctly?

Before installing the door frame, it must be assembled. Work must be done on a flat surface. Otherwise, it is fraught with distortions along the diagonal. The next step is to insert detachable hinges.

Box installation procedure

1. The box is placed in the doorway.
2. Using a level, you need to align the stand with the hinges.
3. If the result is satisfactory, the rack and the top crossbar should be spread with wooden wedges.
4. Adjust the stand to the most accurate vertical position.
5. You can start wedging the second rack.
6. You need to check the horizontal part of the door frame. If there are minor defects, they must be leveled using some kind of pads.
7. Next, the side posts need to be drilled through.
8. In the wall, opposite the holes, you need to make holes for dowels.
9. Secure the box in the opening with self-tapping screws.
10. If there is insufficient clearance on the side of the hinges, they must be removed, shimmed and reinstalled. If the holes are too large and thin substrates are not enough, you need to remove the hinges and deepen the sockets further.
11. Gaps when installing interior doors from the side of the lock they are adjusted by a slight turn of the vertical bar.
12. The door is hung on the frame.
13. After this, it is necessary to make the final adjustment to the door frame.
14. All free spaces are filled with polyurethane foam.

How to properly align a door block?

To prevent poor-quality installation of interior doors, it is necessary to strictly follow the rules for adjusting the door block.

1. Before you finally hang the door leaf, you need to make sure that it will not rub against the jamb. To do this, the door should be hung with only one screw in the hinge. If everything is fine, you can completely fix it.
2. In the case when the canvas touches the jamb, you need to deepen the grooves a little. Depending on the situation, this needs to be done with one hole or both.
3. Once the doors are functioning normally, the hinges can be finally secured.

Installation of additional equipment

This element is installed only if the doorway is wider than the frame. The industrial door frame has a standard width of 7 centimeters. If the interior walls are wider, then the box needs to be enlarged with a similar strip. The wall must align exactly with the frame.

Installation procedure

1. There is a hole on the box for this strip. You need to measure a segment from it to the edge of the wall. If there is no such opening, make it yourself.
2. The extension must be cut into pieces of the required size. In total you will need three planks: two side and one top.
3. The element is placed in the groove of the box.

Threshold in the interior door

Today, such elements are installed infrequently. If a threshold between rooms is necessary, you need to take into account some of the nuances of such work.

Threshold material

This part of the door frame can be made from a variety of materials. The most common are:

• wooden;
• metal;
• stone;
• plastic;
• guillotine.

The most commonly used wood for thresholds is solid pine or oak. Such materials are the most accessible and have good performance qualities.

The most wear-resistant thresholds are metal ones. But this material is mainly used if there is a joint of the floor covering in the area of ​​the doorway. The most popular (due to the price-quality ratio) are aluminum.

As for the appearance of the thresholds, plastic products hold the lead here. They have a very neat and attractive appearance. But wear resistance leaves much to be desired.

Stone thresholds are the most durable. But they are also the most expensive. And the installation process is especially complicated. Therefore, such material is used very rarely for interior doors.

The guillotine is the latest invention in construction. This threshold is mounted at the bottom end of the doors. This threshold differs in that it is not visible when the door is open. The guillotine consists of an aluminum profile with a spring mechanism and a rubber seal. This threshold does not interfere with movement and cleaning of the room.

Setting the threshold

If you plan to install interior doors with a threshold, then this nuance must be taken into account during installation. That is, between the door leaf and the floor covering itself, you need to leave a gap taking into account the future threshold.

1. When making a threshold, you need to correctly calculate its size. That is, add six millimeters to the width of the doorway.
2. A quarter of the width of the material needs to be cut out. This condition is necessary for a good joint with the front part of the box.
3. The threshold must be placed in the box, leaving a gap of about three millimeters.
4. Next, you need to drill holes and secure them to the box with self-tapping screws. Installation of platbands. To give interior doors a finished look, it is necessary to attach platbands to the door frame. They are placed on the same level as the opening.

Installation procedure

1. The trim strip must be attached to the box and a line must be marked half a centimeter higher from the edge of the crossbar.
2. According to the mark, you need to saw off the bar at an angle of 45°.
3. Secure the trims using self-tapping screws without heads.

Installing handles on interior doors

As a rule, interior doors are sold without handles. Therefore, such accessories must be installed independently.

There are three types of handles for interior doors:

• stationary;
• with a turn;
• with pressure.

Door handle installation process

1. First you need to remove the door from its hinges.
2. Then you need to determine where the handle will be located. Usually installation height of the interior door handle is within one meter. In the right place you need to make a mark, stepping back from the edge of the door 50-60 millimeters. At the same time, make the same mark on the reverse side of the door leaf.
3. If you are installing a handle with a turn or pressure, you should also mark the place for the tongue on the door end. Attach the locking bar to the mark and trace it with a pencil.
4. Next, you need to make holes for the handles and latches.
5. Remove some of the door material so that the strip fits tightly into the door leaf.
6. Following the instructions for installing the mechanism, you need to mount it into the door and secure it with screws.
7. Next, you need to insert a square for the handles.
8. Using screws, you need to screw the handles to the door.
9. If there is a decorative overlay, it is necessary to screw the handle onto the base.
10. Do the same with the handle on the other side.
11. Apply lead to the tongue of the handle and, closing the door, leave a mark on the jamb.
12. The overlay must be attached to the marked place and all the details must be traced.
13. Then you need to drill a hole for the tongue.
14. After this, the rest of the circled part must be deepened into the box, depending on the thickness of the strip.
15. At the next stage, you need to screw this element using screws to the jamb.

1. You can fix the box to the opening not only with dowels. A material such as liquid nails will make this work much easier. This glue must be applied to the box, installed in the prepared opening and secured with spacers. The main advantage of this method is that there will be no additional holes, and therefore no plugs will be needed.
2. To mask the screw heads you need to use special plugs.
3. When choosing foam for installing a doorway, you need to choose a product with the lowest expansion coefficient. This will prevent the door frame from bending when it hardens.
4. The door frame can be installed without a special groove. In this case, the bar needs to be used slightly wider. It is screwed to the box and installed along with it.
5. If after installing the door it opens on its own, you need to check the correctness of the gaps and the verticality of the leaf.
6. If the door springs back sharply, it is necessary to check the accuracy of the openings. If the loops are too deep, it is necessary to make linings from some thin material.
7. If after some time the door begins to deviate from its original position, you need to recheck the verticality of the installation. In this case, you will have to reinstall everything again.
8. Often it is impossible to perfectly match the door frame to the opening. In this case, it is better to buy a slightly larger door, and then adjust it to the required dimensions.
9. Sometimes an interior door is installed with two leaves. The operation process is similar to single-leaf doors. The most difficult thing in such work is the correct alignment of both canvases. Since they must be at the same height and in an exact vertical position.
10. The gap between the leaf and the frame should be such that the door opens easily even in the event of fluctuations in humidity.
11. Choosing fasteners for installing interior doors, it is better to give preference to proven materials.

Conclusion

A properly installed door should be equally stable in both the open and closed positions. It does not open spontaneously. Installing interior doors cannot be called a simple task. And if you don’t have such skills, it’s better to use the services of professionals. If you decide to do the whole process yourself, strictly adhere to the installation rules. Patience and accuracy will give good results.

An interior door is an important part of furnishing a living space. It performs the function of dividing space, heat and sound insulation. In addition, it is a subject of design, emphasizes the style of the interior, giving it a complete and modern look. A wide variety of interior doors allows you to make the best choice. Both the doors themselves and their installation are quite expensive. If the house is undergoing a full-scale renovation and several doors need to be installed at once, it will cost a tidy sum. One way to save money is to install interior doors yourself. The work requires precision and accuracy. The slightest mistake and the door will not close. If your hands are friendly with the tool, and you have at least a little carpentry experience, then feel free to get to work.

According to the opening method, there are swing, sliding (compartment door) and folding doors. The most common are swing doors. They are easy to install, but take up a lot of usable space.

Sliding doors come in a variety of modifications: single- and double-leaf, right- and left-sided, with movement along or inside the wall. Such doors save living space. They require special door frames and do not have sufficient sound insulation.

A folding door is constructed of several leaves with movement along a guide. Folding doors come in accordion and book types. Accordion doors replace screens. A book door consists of two identical sections and is much stronger than an accordion. Under heavy load, the fastening hardware of folding doors often fails.

How an interior door works

The interior door kit includes: door frame, door leaf, trim, handle, latch lock and hinges.

How to choose the right door

If the decorative properties of the door are completely determined by the taste preferences of the buyer, then the technical characteristics must correspond to the specific conditions of the room. It is especially important not to make a mistake with the size of the door.

Before going to the store behind the door, measure the height and width of the doorway. The door is purchased in accordance with the measurements. It should be taken into account that along the entire perimeter (without a floor) between the base of the opening and the door frame there is a gap of 10–15 mm and an additional gap of 3–5 mm between the leaf and the frame beam in order to avoid jamming of the doors when air humidity increases. The width of standard doors ranges from 60 to 90 cm in increments?? 10 cm difference.

To calculate the required size of the door leaf, double the sum of the thickness of the frame, the gap between the frame and the wall of the opening and the gap between the frame and the leaf is subtracted from the width of the opening. For example, for an opening 79cm wide, a door 70cm wide is suitable

79 – (1,5 + 2,5 + 0,3) 2

The height of the canvas is usually 2 m. The amount is added to 2 meters

1.5 cm + 2.5 cm + 0.3 cm + 1 cm.

As a result, the minimum opening height is 205 cm. When installing a door frame with a threshold, the opening height should be 209 cm, according to calculations:

200cm. + (1.5cm + 2.5cm + 0.3cm) x 2.

Doors with a threshold are mainly installed in the bathroom and toilet. The door frame is purchased in accordance with the thickness of the opening wall. If the box beam is thinner than the wall, then additional strips will be needed to build up the rack. If floor finishing work is planned, it is advisable to adjust the dimensions of the interior door taking into account the thickness of the planned floor covering.

It is necessary to decide in advance which interior doors are applicable in a given room: one leaf or two, in which direction they will open. You should carefully select loop cards depending on the opening side. The size of door cards is always slightly less than the thickness of the door. High-quality hinges work without rubbing. You shouldn't skimp on hinges.

When choosing a door, carefully check the build quality, the presence of defects, cracks, and chips.

What should a quality installation look like?

A correctly installed door is stable in any position: open, closed, in between and does not move spontaneously. The interval between the frame and the door leaf should be minimal, but sufficient for easy opening and changing the size of the door and frame with fluctuations in temperature and humidity. It is desirable that the gaps between the body elements, extensions, and parts of the door frame are absent or minimal.

Do-it-yourself interior door installation

Tools and materials

To install an interior door yourself, you will need the following tools: a saw or a hacksaw for metal, a building level, a chisel, a miter box, a drill with attachments (crown or perk), a screwdriver or screwdriver, mounting foam, a tape measure, a pencil, dowels, self-tapping screws, a hammer, two spirit levels - long (about 1800 mm) and short (about 500 mm), right angle square, universal screws 5x80, plastic or wooden wedges, finishing nails, knife.

Installation of interior doors instructions

Installation steps:

1. Assembling the door frame. The components of the box are laid out in the required order, taking into account the direction of opening the door.
2. The top crossbar of the door frame is connected to the ends of both frame posts with self-tapping screws or nails.
3. Installation of canopies.
4. Installation of the door frame in the opening. The assembled frame is placed in the opening and positioned using wedges in exactly horizontal and vertical positions under level control. The length of the wedges must exceed the depth of the box profile by 20mm. The box is positioned so that the bottom edge of the rack coincides with the level of the floor surface. By the time the door frame is installed, the flooring, laminate or linoleum, must be ready.
5. Hanging the door leaf. The hinged stand of the box is secured with screws to the wall and the canvas is hung on the hinges. The stand with the lock strike plate is attached to the wall with screws. Using the door leaf, check the working gaps between the edge of the leaf and the frame. Using slats or a measuring tool, check once again that the diagonal dimensions of the door frame match. After which the box is finally screwed into the opening with screws. If a threshold is provided, it is attached to the floor. Plastic plugs are used to close the mounting holes in the box.
6. Fixing cash registers and door fittings.
7. Checking the functionality of the door structure.

Rules for installing interior doors

Preparatory work

Door installation begins at a certain stage of repair. Doors are installed after electrical and plumbing work is completed, but always before painting and tiling, so that after installing the door, defects on the wall can be corrected and masked. The door is unpacked carefully and gradually so as not to scratch it.

It is better to install an interior door together with an assistant.

Dismantling the old door leaf and frame

The installation of interior doors begins with the dismantling of old door structures. This stage is labor-intensive and destructive. A lot of dust is generated. Therefore, care should be taken to protect the respiratory system and eyes, and, if possible, isolate adjacent rooms. First, the old door is removed from its hinges. To do this, open it at a right angle and pull the door leaf upward. If this technique does not work, you will have to remove the trim from the door frame and, while rocking the door to the sides, simultaneously pull it up until the door panel is removed from the hinges.

The most radical way is to simply tear the door off the frame, but then the door is no longer suitable for reuse.

To remove the door frame, first remove the mortar that secures the frame in the opening. The box is then sawed through at the top of the vertical posts on the left and right. The cuts make it easier to remove the box from the opening using a pry bar or construction scrap. The mount is inserted between the wall and the box and simply pulled towards the opening. The stand breaks and decreases in volume. The same thing is repeated on the other side, and the entire structure is easily removed from the opening.

Preparing the doorway

Remove insulation material, fasteners, all easily peelable objects, and clean the base surfaces of construction debris.

If there are mechanical damages and defects on the base planes of the opening, they are repaired using building mixtures

A very important condition for the correct installation of an interior door is its position strictly vertically. Before fitting the door to the opening, first check the opening itself with a building level. If the doorway deviates from the level by more than 1 cm, it is corrected to the required condition with a chisel and hammer. Sometimes, during the dismantling of old doors, wooden blocks built into the wall (mortgages) are discovered; they are removed and the voids are sealed with cement mortar.

Door frame assembly

The door frame is a frame made of beams. Installation boxes are rectangular or U-shaped. In the first case, boxes are usually used for installing interior doors in the toilet and bathroom; in all other rooms, preference is given to doors without a threshold.

As a rule, door manufacturers produce ready-made sections of box timber, which are fastened together with screws. For self-installation, the optimal solution would be to assemble the frame along the door leaf. The door leaf is laid on the floor or any flat surface. Then, using it, as if using a template, the parts of the box are cut and then assembled. It is important to double-check the gaps between the door leaf and the frame itself: 3-5mm on each side.

When installing a U-shaped frame, a gap of 10 mm is maintained between the bottom edge of the door and the floor.

After all the intervals between the door frame and the leaf are observed, mark the installation locations of the hinges, lock, and handle.

The prepared racks and the upper crossbar of the door frame are combined in the form of the letter “P” and tightened with self-tapping screws 60 mm long; at least 3 self-tapping screws are used for one joint.

To ensure a tight connection between the elements of the box, a part of a quarter of a length equal to the thickness of the adjacent beam is removed from one of them using a hacksaw and chisel).

Installing hinges on interior doors

An important step in the self-assembly of interior doors is the installation of canopies; the quality of opening and closing the door mainly depends on these parts. Many people mistakenly believe that it is enough to install two hinges on interior doors. It would be more correct and reliable to install 3 loops.

Marking the positions for placing hinges starts from the top edge of the door leaf; marks of 250mm and 500mm are placed on the corresponding side. Then from the bottom of the canvas - 250mm. Next, hinges are placed on top of the door leaf so that the marks coincide with the middle of the hinge, and markings are made with a pencil on the upper and lower edges of the hinge. To install the awnings, the door is turned on its edge. The opened hinge is applied so that the hinge protrudes beyond the edge of the door, aligned with the marking lines and traced the outline of the sash with a pencil. Mark the depth of the groove.

Using a sharp chisel, make several shallow cuts across the grain and cut the wood to the marked line. This work requires extreme care to ensure that the canopy is level (flush) with the main plane of the door. In order not to split the box beam and the canvas, guide holes for screws with a diameter of 2.5 mm are pre-drilled.

After adjustment, the awnings are screwed to the door with screws with a minimum length of 35mm. In the same way, paired canopy elements are attached to the installation box.

To do this, mark the position of the hinges in the vertical stand. Place the door in the frame, maintaining a technological gap of 2-4 mm between its upper bar and the leaf. The door is taken out, the grooves are made using a chisel according to the markings, the leaf is inserted again and the hinges are cut into the door frame post. The door should fit freely into the frame without rubbing and fit snugly to the entire adjacent plane.

After the hinges are attached to the door leaf and frame, install the door frame in the opening.

Installing an interior door frame

The door frame is installed in the prepared opening. First of all, using a level or plumb line (thread with a load), the stand with hinges is leveled. It is checked from all sides, after which the stand and the top crossbar are split open with wooden wedges. A stand is considered to be exposed when it occupies a strictly vertical position.

After this, the second rack is wedged. The horizontal part of the box is also checked. If necessary, the box is wedged with thin pads. Both side posts are drilled through, and holes for dowels are made in the wall at the points from the drill. The box is secured to the wall with long self-tapping screws.

The door is hung on the exposed frame. After which the final adjustment of the box is carried out. The stand with the strike plate for the lock is adjusted to the door leaf so that the door does not protrude beyond the plane of the wall. To prevent the box and canvas from cracking, pre-drill holes for screws with a diameter of 2.5 mm.

Adjusting and aligning the door block

The door is hung on one screw in each hinge and checked how it closes. If the trim rubs against the jamb, deepen one or both grooves slightly. If the door is pressed against the jamb on the hinge side, place cardboard under the hinge flaps. After the doors open and close normally, the hinges are secured with the remaining screws. In order not to deform the structure during fixation, it is recommended to install wooden spacers between the elements of the box and the base of the opening (in increments of 40-50 cm).

Fix the box to the base plane of the opening using anchor bolts or dowels with self-tapping screws at 6 points (3 each on the hinge and lock sides). Mounting holes are drilled into the frame elements with a drill, through which the door is attached to the frame in the opening.

You can fasten the box in the opening not only with dowels. It is much easier to use special glue “liquid nails” for these purposes. Glue is applied to the wood, the frame is installed in the opening and spacers are installed. To avoid scratching the doors, place a soft cloth under the spacers. An additional advantage of this method is that there are no holes like after drilling and plugs are not needed.

Decorative plugs are used to disguise screw heads. The next step is foaming the voids. Polyurethane foam with a minimum coefficient of expansion is used to avoid curvature of the box when the composition hardens. Subsequent work continues after the foam has completely hardened and its excess has been removed with a mounting knife.

Methods of fastening a door frame in an opening

There are various ways to install and fix a door frame. Each master has his own algorithm of actions.

• Installation of a disassembled door frame. The door frame part with the hinges is installed and attached. Then the door leaf is immediately hung. Then the remaining parts of the frame are assembled and attached to the wall of the opening. This method allows you to mount the door frame quite accurately and there is no need to constantly remove and put on the door.
• Installation of the assembled door frame. The mounted box is installed in the opening and propped apart with wooden wedges. Then the door is hung. The disadvantage of this method is that to check the correct installation it is necessary to hang the door, and if adjustments are required, the door leaf will have to be removed and the entire installation process repeated.
• Installation using anchors and screws. The screw is screwed directly through the drilled hole. A minimum of three screws are required on each side for secure mounting. With this method, the door frame is adjusted using screws. The disadvantage of this method is that the screw heads are visible, which are masked with putty or special plugs. In addition, it is quite difficult to determine the exact location of the holes on a brick or concrete wall.
• Foaming the door. The method is very simple: the door frame in the opening is pushed apart with wedges, the canvas is hung and gaskets are inserted between the door and the frame. The wedged and hung door is propped apart with wooden blocks (spacers) opposite the hinges and one in the middle. Spacers prevent the box from being compressed by foam. Avoid over-expanding the door, otherwise the gaps will be uneven. After installing the spacers, wedges are added near the hinges and opposite each spacer. The door is covered with something, and the visible parts of the frame are sealed with masking tape to prevent foam from getting in. Between the canvas and the box, in the so-called vestibule, pieces of packaging cardboard are inserted. This will help maintain the required technological gap. After such preparation, the voids between the box and the wall of the opening are filled with foam. The foam is served carefully, layer by layer, from top to bottom, so that it does not protrude outward. The door is closed and not touched until the composition is completely dry. The foam dries within -24 hours, after which the spacers are removed. Instead of polyurethane foam, cement-sand mortar is also used to fill and grout the cavity between the frame and the opening.

Installation of interior doors

The extension is a plank about two meters long, from 6 to 30 mm thick and up to 25 cm wide. Door extensions are used when installing interior doors when the wall thickness is greater than the width of the door frame.

The door frame beam is made of a standard width (7cm); according to the thickness of the opening, it can be expanded with an additional strip and, thus, achieve precise alignment of the wall and the frame with the extension.

The box beam has a special groove for an additional strip 1 cm deep. Measure the distance from the depth of this groove to the edge of the wall.

The extension is cut into strips of the required length and width using a circular saw.

Prepare two vertical strips and one short one for the top of the box

Methods for installing extensions:

• Into the finished groove of the door frame.
• If there is no groove, cut it out yourself using a router.
• If there is no groove, the additional strip is cut several centimeters wider and screwed to the wrong side of the box beam. Then the door frame is installed immediately along with the extension. This method is used if the walls are smooth.
• If there is no groove and there is a narrow extension, the extension is carefully drilled through and screwed to the box with self-tapping screws.
• The extension is twisted in the shape of a “P”.

Installing an interior door threshold

Currently, thresholds for interior doors are unpopular, despite their undoubtedly useful functional qualities: additional heat and sound insulation, protection from drafts and odors. However, the inconvenience of thresholds when walking and cleaning forces most people to choose doors with a U-shaped frame. Most often, interior doors with a threshold are installed in bathrooms and toilets.

A threshold is even necessary if the floor level there is higher than in the adjacent rooms. In addition, in case of small floods, the threshold will prevent water from escaping beyond the bathroom and toilet.

Thresholds are made from different materials:

• Wooden. The most common thresholds are made of pine and oak. Oak ones are much more durable, but also more expensive.
• Metal. The most wear-resistant thresholds. Mainly used for sealing joints in floor coverings. There are single-level, multi-level and corner. The most popular are aluminum ones. They are much cheaper than brass and steel.
• Plastic. They have average wear resistance. They have an attractive, neat appearance.
• Stone. The most durable, expensive and labor-intensive thresholds to install.
• The guillotine or “smart threshold” is a new aesthetic and practical invention. Does not spoil the appearance of floor coverings, simplifies room cleaning, and eliminates the problem of obstacles in the doorway. The “smart threshold” cuts into the bottom end of the door leaf to a depth of 20mm and is not visible when the door is open. It consists of a U-shaped aluminum profile, which contains a spring mechanism with a rubber seal. A metal strip with a button is attached to the hinge side of the door. When the door is closed, the button is pressed and a spring is activated, which lowers the rubber seal to the floor.

Installation of interior doors with a threshold is almost no different from installation without it. Simply, when calculating the height of the door, the height of the threshold and gaps are taken into account.

How to set the threshold:

• Prepare the threshold of the required size: door leaf width + 6 mm.
• A quarter is cut out for the joint with the front part of the box.
• Insert the threshold into the box with a gap of 3-3.5 mm from the canvas (you can place strips of cardboard).
• Drill holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm. Take out the threshold and drill holes in the box with a diameter of 4.5 mm.
• Secure the box with self-tapping screws.
• Saw off the excess part of the door frame.

After the extensions are installed, the door can be decorated with platbands.

Installation of interior door frames

Trims are decorative strips that are attached to the door frame and give the interior door a finished look. Due to the different thicknesses of the opening and the box, auxiliary structural elements in the form of extensions are usually used to secure them. When installing platbands, the frame of the interior door is placed at the same level with the plane of the opening on the front side, and on the back side, extensions are used. To connect the platbands, first apply a vertical strip to the box post and place a mark 5 mm higher from the bottom edge of the box crossbar. This mark is the edge of the future cut corner. The marking of the cut corner is also repeated on the opposite side. The joints of the platbands are filed at an angle of 45 degrees using a miter box. Fixing the platbands to the box is done using special nails without heads.

Possible installation problems and ways to solve them

The door opens spontaneously. The most likely cause is improper clearances or lack of verticality. To find out the reason, the door leaf is brought to the counter and smoothly released.

If the door springs back sharply, it means that the gaps are not maintained correctly. This is corrected by deepening the hinges into the rack, or by placing cardboard pads cut to the size of the hinges. Most often the reason is excessive deepening of the loops.

The door moves smoothly from its position. Most likely the vertical level is not maintained. You'll have to re-install it.

What to do if the door is too big

There are non-standard doorways for which it is difficult to choose a door of suitable dimensions. In this case, it is better to purchase a larger door and fit it to the opening.

To reduce the width of the door, it is enough to trim the side trim to the marking line. If you need to remove a lot, then remove the wood from both sides. It is better to saw off excess of more than 6 mm and then process it with a plane. To avoid damaging the corners, the plane is directed from the corner to the middle of the block. The door is placed on thin wedges and fitted to the opening.

Features of installation of interior doors with MDF frames

Installation of an MDF door frame requires a more serious approach than in the case of a wooden door frame. This is due to the flexibility of particle board and the ability to deform under pressure. First of all, the walls of the opening must be perfectly aligned. Another option: install bars in the opening, level them, and then attach the door frame to them. The frame elements are assembled around the door and secured together using self-tapping screws. To ensure the strength of the joints, it is recommended to use wooden caps placed with PVA glue in pre-drilled recesses. To achieve a uniform gap between the door leaf and the frame, pieces of linoleum or similar material are laid along the perimeter of the elements in increments of 50 cm. And then they use ropes to pull the box to the door leaf in three or four places and align the box exactly with the door, maintaining the required gaps.

The assembled structure is installed in the opening. The method of fastening the MDF box depends on the structure of the profile.

Fixing an MDF box with a solid structure is done in the same way as a wooden frame.

An MDF frame with overlay strips allows the use of anchors for fastening in a doorway. The anchors are inserted into the recess and closed with a false strip.

This box is very convenient, even after installation, if necessary, you can carefully remove the cover strip and use anchors to adjust the gaps.

A very important point is to seal the doorway with polyurethane foam. Both an excess of foam sealant and a deficiency lead to deformation of the MDF box. Keeping the door closed for 24 hours until the foam has completely dried will help prevent the pillars from bending. If this is not possible, then install three spacers made of bars. One is at the top, the second is at the bottom, and the third is in the middle.

Feel free to get down to business!

This is not to say that installing interior doors is a simple matter. But if you strictly adhere to all the rules, show patience and accuracy, an excellent result is guaranteed. If you invite a master, the cost of installing an interior door will cost about 1900 rubles, installing a threshold 400 rubles, widening or narrowing the opening by 5-10 cm - 1000 rubles. In the balance: considerable expenses or cost savings and the joy of creation. What to choose? Everyone decides for themselves!

Today, do-it-yourself installation of interior doors is done in most cases. Manufacturers strive to simplify the installation of their products as much as possible, so almost anyone can handle this. Next, we will consider this procedure in detail.

Before you install an interior door yourself, you will need to choose the appropriate model. According to the opening method, they are divided into the following categories:

• Foldable. Such models consist of several doors at once that move along a guide. They are divided into two subgroups: books (consist of 2 sections and are durable) and accordions (an alternative to screens).
• Coupe (sliding). They have the largest number of modifications: 1 and 2 doors, opening inward or along the wall, left- and right-handed, etc. The main advantage of such structures is space saving. When installed correctly, they also provide a high level of sound insulation.
• Swing. The last variety is the most popular. Installing doors of this type is much simpler, and can be done by people without carpentry skills (which cannot be said about other categories). In addition, their cost is much lower. The main disadvantage of such structures is that they take up a lot of usable space.

Installation of the first two varieties is carried out using different methods, which have significant differences. In this case, the master will need the skills of a carpenter, otherwise it will be impossible to achieve a positive result. Therefore, our step-by-step instructions will cover the installation of swing doors.

A few words about choosing a canvas and calculations

Technical characteristics must be selected based on room conditions. First, we decide on the dimensions of the canvas, so we measure the opening. Don't forget about the need to leave a gap. Between the racks and the original surface 10-12 mm, between the canvas and the timber 3-5 mm. This is necessary to avoid the door jamming. It may appear due to swelling of the fabric (from temperature fluctuations and high humidity). The standard width ranges from 60-100 cm, height 180-220 cm.

Remember: the finished canvas cannot be adjusted, and expanding (narrowing) the opening is a labor-intensive task. Therefore, select the dimensions as accurately as possible - the complexity of installation will depend on this.

The technical clearances (12-15mm) and the width of the box are subtracted from the size of the opening and multiplied by 2. The resulting number is subtracted from the width of the opening. Calculation example:

1. We have an opening 78.5 cm wide.
2. 78,5 - (1,2 + 2,5 + 0,3) *2 = 70,5.
3. This means that a model with a width of 70 cm suits us.

The standard door length is 200 cm, so you will have to adjust the opening to fit it. To calculate the required height, to two meters (or another figure if we are dealing with a non-standard model) we add the thickness of the box, the size of the technical gap and 1 cm (the distance between the canvas and the floor). If you plan to install a threshold, then add its thickness.

In addition to the dimensions, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the material from which the canvas is made. This is not so important, but you should not ignore this aspect. Remember a few simple tips:

• In rooms with high humidity, the use of models made of materials that are not resistant to dampness (chipboard, pressed sawdust, etc.) is not recommended. In a few years they will swell and lose their original appearance. In such cases, it is recommended to install laminated doors.

Advice: if there is a need to install this type, leave a technological gap 2 times larger, because such a canvas will swell much faster and more strongly.

• If there are small children or large animals in the house, it is better to avoid models with glass inserts.

Another important point - for newly built wooden houses, when installing the box, it is recommended not to fully screw in the screws. This will allow her to easily survive shrinkage.

Where to start - preparatory manipulations

First, you will need to perform several labor-intensive and important operations.

What we need - study the tools

Tools for installing interior doors are not expensive or complicated. To complete all the manipulations you will need the following:

• A hacksaw with a miter box (it must be of a suitable size so that the box fits completely into its grooves, otherwise it will be very inconvenient to saw). You can use a circular saw.
• Building level. Ideally, laser - it gives maximum accuracy. However, there is no point in purchasing it for a one-time job - it is quite expensive.
• Drill with cutter.
• Pencil (or marker), tape measure.
• Hammer.
• Screwdriver or furniture screwdriver.
• Polyurethane foam with a gun.
• Fastening materials: finishing nails (usually included in the kit), self-tapping screws, dowels, screws (80×5), wedges.
• Two spirit levels (180 and 50 cm).

The first procedure is dismantling

This is the most difficult, and most importantly, the dirtiest stage of work. Self-installation of interior doors begins with dismantling the old ones. Let's look at everything step by step:

• During operations, an incredible amount of dirt and dust will appear. Therefore, immediately remove all furniture, carpets and other items from the room. We cover anything that cannot be moved with something. Don't forget about PPE (goggles, gloves, respirator).
• We remove the old door from its hinges. To do this, unscrew the screws that hold them. If the hinges are of the “male-male” type (that is, when one part is inserted into the other), then simply open the door and pull it up at a right angle. If the hinges are not lubricated, you will have to put in a lot of effort, so we do the work with a partner.

Tip: if you no longer plan to use the old canvas, you can simply tear it off if you have sufficient force. This is the most radical and fastest way.

• Next you need to dismantle the box. First of all, remove the mortar that holds the frame.
• Then cuts are made in the upper parts of both posts. This will make the extraction process easier: insert the pry bar into the holes made and simply pull it strongly in different directions.
• As a result, they will become loose and can be easily removed from the opening.

Preparing the original surface

The next step is to bring the opening into proper shape. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

• We dismantle the insulation (if any). We do this with gloves, because this group of materials irritates the skin.
• We remove construction waste and then carry out a thorough inspection.
• If there are materials that peel off easily, remove them. We also remove all fasteners (hinges, nails, etc.).
• As a result, we should get bare concrete (brick, timber - depending on what the walls are made of).

After such procedures, the evenness and integrity of the surface will most likely be compromised. Therefore, it will need to be leveled. There are several methods, but the simplest is plastering.

If, after cleaning operations, the width of the opening has increased (for example, the surface layer of plaster has fallen off), then installing extensions will help. These are wooden (in most cases) planks 6-30 mm wide. They are installed when it is necessary to “increase” the size of the opening. A more durable option is cement mortar.

Main scope of work

The order of installation of interior doors must be strictly observed, so all further manipulations are presented in the correct sequence.

Assembling the box correctly

Once again, making sure that the original surface is even, we begin assembling the box. It is sold in the form of bars of various lengths. It is necessary to make a U-shaped structure from them (if a threshold is to be installed, then rectangular). The second option is used mainly for toilets and bathrooms.

If you ordered the frame along with the door, then most likely it will be ready - you just need to assemble it (using long screws or nails). If purchased separately, it will have to be adjusted to size. This is the most complex process that will require maximum precision, because in case of the slightest inaccuracies, the door will receive a slope, which will affect its performance characteristics.

Consider the assembly of a U-shaped structure:

• We lay two vertical posts on the floor, making sure it is perfectly level.
• We mark on them the height of the opening from the inside.
• From these points downwards we make a cut at an angle of 45 degrees, a miter box will help you with this.
• On the third post (horizontal) we mark the width of the opening on the inside. From these points we make a 45 degree cut in different directions. Do not confuse the direction, these three elements must be assembled into a single structure, so make a fitting with each new cut.
• Then we mark the places for the hinges and the lock. This can be done later.
• We assemble the resulting structure and connect it with large self-tapping screws. For each joint we use at least 3 fasteners.

Attention! Make sure that the self-tapping screw is vertical when tightening, because at the slightest deviation it will pierce the post.

For a rectangular structure, the assembly will be identical, only with the addition of a second horizontal post.

How to set the loops correctly

The awnings will determine how comfortable closing and opening will be, so perfect precision is required. Most people believe that two loops are enough for normal operation. We recommend using three (one placed exactly in the middle). In this case, even during long-term use, you will avoid distortions. So, you need to do the following:

• We apply loops to the applied markings and trace them with a pencil (marker).
• Along the drawn lines we make two grooves (on the door and the canopy) - to the depth of the canopy. A chisel will help us with this. The loop should be flush with the main surface.
• Having made the adjustment, we screw the awnings onto self-tapping screws of medium length (at least 3.5 cm) first to the canvas, and then to the racks.
• If necessary, we make adjustments: we place the structure on the floor and begin to open (close) - if the movement is not smooth, tighten the screws.

Insert the box into the opening

The next stage is installing the door frame. We do everything in this sequence:

• If the hinges are of the male-female type, then take out the door - this will make the work easier. Otherwise we leave it as is.
• Level all three posts. Achieving perfect verticality!
• We split the top crossbar with wooden wedges.
• We level it again and, if necessary, use linings.
• We drill through the side posts with a drill.
• Insert dowels into the resulting holes in the wall.
• Using long self-tapping screws, we secure the box.
• We carry out final revision and alignment.

Final chords - handles, trims

Having made sure of perfect evenness, we perform the final manipulations. First, the handle is installed on the door. To do this, a through hole of the appropriate diameter is drilled in the canvas (If you purchased a complete set, you will not have to do this). Then the two parts of the handle are connected. In most cases this is not difficult.

At the end, platbands are exposed - decorative elements that hide all the irregularities and form the integrity of the structure. They are glued around the entire perimeter using special liquid nails. The joints are also formed using a miter box.

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