Plasterboard ceilings are a simple and economical way to transform an apartment. Reliability of a design is checked up by long-term experience. Advantages, as the same experience shows, these ceilings have a lot. Of great importance is the fact that making plasterboard ceilings is simple, and a non-professional can cope with the task. The aesthetic possibilities here are simply endless. You can create a unique design by boldly using different lighting options and curvilinear shapes.
Preparations should begin with the creation of a project. Specify how many levels the ceiling will have. Depends on . In advance, it is necessary to think over the layout of lighting fixtures and additional lighting. It may be necessary to ditch the ceiling and walls to lay the wiring. Only after that you can draw up a project, make calculations and go to the store for materials.
Tools
It won't work without reliable tools. It depends on them and the time of work. Before purchasing materials, check that you have all the tools. It is better to make a list right away and buy everything in advance.
From the little things you will need: marker, construction pencil, indicator screwdriver, drills of different diameters, jigsaw files, bits, masking tape, electrical tape and paint rollers.
materials
Drywall can have a thickness of 6.5 to 12.5 mm. For the ceiling, it is better to buy sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm. But if there is one in the project, 6.5 mm drywall will be the best for them. If you purchase thicker sheets, you need to strengthen the frame. Your ceiling will be heavy, which means it needs more profiles and fixtures.
Important.
Drywall suitable for living quarters with GKL marking.
Needed for kitchen or bathroom moisture resistant material.
There are two types of profiles:
- Guide (PN) dimensions 27 x 27 mm. This profile is attached around the perimeter of the room.
- Ceiling (PP) with dimensions of 56 x 27 or 60 x 27 mm. Drywall sheets are attached directly to this profile.
Profiles used for the ceiling:
ceiling CD and UD rail
U-shaped suspensions are used to fasten ceiling profiles to the draft ceiling. You can use other suspensions, but U-shaped ones are the most reliable. For the ceiling, it is better to take plastic dowels and screws. If the ceiling is concrete, dowels are needed for heavy metal structures. Self-tapping screws are used to fasten drywall. At the joints of the profiles, a connector (crab) is used.
At the final stages, putty is needed for processing seams and paint.
Ceiling installation steps
Working with drywall involves a lot of dust. If you do not intend to change the wallpaper, they need to be covered with a film. It is better to take out the furniture, in extreme cases, wrap it tightly with a film. The draft ceiling must be plastered and primed. Pieces of plaster falling on the false ceiling can damage it. All wiring has already been done to the lighting installation areas.
1. Measurements and marking
Ceiling height depends on the type of lighting fixtures. If a chandelier is supposed, 5 cm is enough. About 10 cm of free space is needed for this. If you plan to hide communications behind the ceiling, the distance can be up to 40 cm.
On the walls under the ceiling it is necessary to apply a perfectly even horizontal line. Along this line you will attach the guide profile. To determine this line, you need a laser level. You can use a spirit level or a rule. The line must close exactly at the point from which it began. The smallest shifts are not allowed. In the corners, the level must be placed both on the surface of the walls and in the corners of the spacer. All lines are drawn with a construction pencil.
Horizontal markings around the perimeter - controlled by a level, then the mounting points of the guides are marked
After completing the horizontal markings, we proceed to the ceiling. The attachment points of the suspensions are marked and lines are drawn along which the ceiling profile will be mounted. As a result, you should get a grid with squares, the side of which is 60 cm. You need to start from the center of the room. Near the walls, most likely, squares will not work. Your task is to make the cell sizes symmetrical near each wall.
2. Mounting the frame
The standard length of the guide profile is 3 m. A minimum of 4 dowel-nails must be used to fasten one element. It is desirable to glue the profile at the point of contact with the wall with sealing tape. The profile must pass clearly along the drawn markings, the elements should fit snugly against each other. Installation is best done in the classical way, in which the dowel is first screwed in, and then a screw is installed in it.
The next stage is fastening with dowel-nails to the draft ceiling of U-shaped suspensions. The interval between them along one line should be 40-70 cm. At the joints of the profiles, suspensions are installed on both sides. The ends of the suspension must be bent as much as possible. During the fastening process, they should not bend, otherwise the profile cannot be fixed evenly.
The ceiling profile must be 1 cm shorter than the width of the ceiling. If your room is less than 3 m wide (standard profile length), cut off the excess with metal shears. If the room has a large width, you will have to connect two profiles. To do this, you need to buy special fasteners.
Important! If you are building up a ceiling profile, the joints on two adjacent ones should not be on the same line. Additionally, the joints are fixed with suspensions.
The sequence of installation of ceiling profiles:
- You need to start from the corners of the room. The partner takes the rule and sets it in a diagonal corner. The other end of the rule will support the profile so it doesn't sag. So your partner will maintain the profile exactly along the line of the guides. In the meantime, you insert the profile into the guides, screw it to the hangers with 4 self-tapping screws and to the guides.
- The center is also attached to suspensions. If it is impossible to use the rule in the same way as in the corner, apply it exactly from the starting profile, be sure to check the line with a level. The excess length of the suspensions is bent up.
- The second profile is attached in the same way. After that, everything should be repeated near the opposite wall.
- The central profiles are attached in the same way, leveling on the already installed ones.
Further, perpendicular to the main profiles, jumpers are installed. The distance between them should be 60 cm, that's why you broke the ceiling into squares. The profile is cut into segments with the required length. Crabs are installed at the joints, fastened with 4 self-tapping screws, the antennae are bent. Jumpers with self-tapping screws are attached to the antennae of the crab. From below, the jumpers do not need to be attached to the profile; during the installation of drywall, they will be fixed.
Photo: suspended ceiling insulation with mineral wool
The free space between the draft and suspended ceilings can be filled with heat and sound insulation. The most commonly used mineral wool. It is cut into rectangles of a larger size than the cells in the frame, and the space is filled, additionally fixed with suspensions.
3. Installation of drywall
Drywall sheets should lie in the room for several days, always in a horizontal position. Sheets are cut to the desired size with a construction knife. Before starting installation, the chamfer must be cut at the edges with a knife at an angle so that the putty completely fills the gap. Burrs that form during cutting are removed with a planer. Holes for fixtures are made using crowns after careful measurements.
- Sheets need to start fastening from the corner. Self-tapping screws on adjacent sheets must be screwed in at different levels. The step between the screws is 20 cm. The hat must be completely recessed, it is advisable to check each screw by touch.
- The sheet is attached to both the guide and the ceiling profiles.
- Drywall cannot be closely joined along the perimeter. Leave a gap of 2 mm.
- Between themselves, the sheets must be placed in a run-up, shifting at least one cell.
Photo: fixing a drywall sheet with a screwdriver
A perfectly flat ceiling is not a luxury, but a vital necessity.
In thousands of apartments today you can see untidy seams and drops from carelessly laid floor panels. Without installing a false ceiling, it is impossible to hide them. In a new house, such a design is a mandatory option, without which a modern interior is unthinkable.
Multi-level suspended structures, photos of which are posted on the Internet, seem unthinkably difficult to a beginner. However, in fact, a plasterboard suspended ceiling is mounted quite simply.
For the success of this work, you will need an accurate calculation of the amount of all materials, a design sketch and a minimum set of tools.
What is required to install a false ceiling?
Since any suspended ceiling consists of a frame and cladding, the first thing to do is to calculate and buy these materials. The frame of the plasterboard ceiling is standard and minimal in terms of the number of parts.
It consists of the following elements:
- Start profile - UD;
- The main (bearing profile) - CD;
- Direct suspensions;
- Dowel;
- (ceiling).
If necessary (determined by the size of the room), this list will need to be supplemented with single-level “crab” connectors and profile extensions.
The task of the "crabs" is the connection of perpendicularly joined profiles. They are used when the ceiling has a large area. Here, transverse joints are added to the longitudinal joints of the sheets.
If you want to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands in the bathroom, kitchen or hallway, then you will not need "crabs". When installing the sheathing in the hall or bedroom, there will be nothing to fasten the short sides of the sheets. Therefore, the transverse slats of the frame are complemented by longitudinal ones. To assemble such a crate, you will need single-level crab connectors.
Logically, if there are single-level ones, then there must be two-level "crabs"? Yes, such fasteners exist, but they are used to connect profiles running at different heights (in multi-level ceiling systems).
For the first time, you do not need to take on a complex design. It is best to understand the technology and "fill your hand" on a simple single-level ceiling.
Before starting installation, it is very useful to make a sketch of the future design.. It will help to calculate the required number of profiles and fasteners. For example, consider drawing up a sketch plan for a false ceiling for a kitchen. We measure the room and transfer its overall dimensions to a sheet of paper.
Having such a sketch, you can easily calculate all the necessary materials for the frame with an accuracy of one self-tapping screw. In addition, the frame diagram will help to accurately install drywall, without hitting its edge into the empty gap of the crate. To do this, the step of the carrier profile must be chosen so that the edges of the drywall sheets (length 2.5 and width 1.2 meters) fall on it, and they can be fixed with self-tapping screws.
The first two profiles are placed from the wall at a distance of 15-20 cm less than the step of ordinary planks. This is necessary to strengthen the extreme sections of the frame, which rely only on a weak starting rail.
Since it directly affects the design of the frame, add all the necessary details to the sketch in advance (mounting points for the stretch ceiling, the ends of the "steps", curved sections, etc.)
Tools and work steps
High-quality installation of drywall on the ceiling will not be possible if the necessary tool is not at hand. Since the main part of the work is related to cutting and fastening a steel profile, installing drywall sheets, you will need:
- perforator;
- Bulgarian;
- metal scissors;
- cordless screwdriver;
- construction knife.
Of the measuring devices, you need to purchase a rule (2 meters), a normal and water level, a tape measure and a pencil. If you buy a laser level instead of a water level, then the installation preparation stage will be much easier.
An independent installation of a plasterboard ceiling can only be started after careful marking. First you need to “beat off” a horizontal line (horizon level) along the perimeter of the room. It will set the start profile. In order to find this line, you need to determine the distance of the false ceiling indent from the ceiling.
It is enough to lower the design without spotlights by only 4-5 cm. If lamp lighting is installed in the drywall, then a gap of at least 8 cm will have to be left for it in the above-ceiling space.
Since the height of the ceilings, even in one room, is a variable value, we will have to find the lowest point in it, from which we will set aside the distance of the indentation (lowering) of the suspended structure. To do this, measure the height of the ceiling in four corners and in the middle of the room.
Then we set aside the lowest height on the wall with a tape measure and fix it with a pencil mark. After that, the resulting point must be transferred to all walls and connected with a common horizontal line. In the course of this work, we will see the advantages of the laser over the water hose of the hydraulic level.
One cannot manage a water device alone. One person should hold the ampoule with divisions at the starting mark, and the other should put the second one against the adjacent wall. The water level in the connected graduated ampoules is the same, so the horizon mark is determined quickly on the second wall.
When using a laser level, the process will be easier. We put it in the middle of the room and put it in working position. Then we draw a beam along all the walls and make marks. The distance from the initial (base) point, which fixes the bottom of the ceiling, is measured with a tape measure and sequentially put it up from the line “drawn” by the laser.
Now it remains to connect all the points using a long rule. Along this line, we will fix the bottom of the starting profile and get a belt for installing the supporting frame. Note that more complex two-level ceilings are laid out in exactly the same way.
After mounting the starting metal strips, we proceed to attach the suspensions. To do this, you need to wear goggles and a respirator so that dust does not get into your eyes and lungs. Direct suspensions are placed at marked points and fastened with dowels. Carrier bars (CD) are fixed to them, leading them into the starting profile and into the gap between the bent "whiskers" of the suspension.
Having fixed the profile to the suspension on both sides, the ends of the "whiskers" are bent.
The result of the work done will be a solid trellis frame, ready for fixing drywall and further finishing.
Since the dimensions of the ceiling very rarely coincide with the whole number of sheathing sheets, then part of the drywall will have to be cut. First we fix the whole sheets. This work requires the participation of at least 2 people.
By approaching the other edge of the frame, we can accurately determine the dimensions of the sheet to be cut. The junction of the sheathing to the walls does not need to be done back to back. It is better to leave a small gap (0.5-1 cm). It will compensate for the thermal expansion of the material and will be closed with a ceiling plinth (baguette).
Self-tapping screws are screwed into drywall carefully, slightly deepening the hat into the material. Finishing putty will completely hide these points.
We set the drywall so that the joints of the sheets fall in the middle of the profiles. At the same time, they need to be joined by sides that have special recesses for reinforcing tape (sickles) and puttying.
The long sides of the sheets that do not have such joints are prepared for puttying, cutting (embroidering) the edges with a construction knife.
After the joints of the sheathing are closed with reinforcing tape, further finishing of the ceiling consists in puttying the seams and installation points for self-tapping screws.
After completing this work, you need to let the putty dry until the next day. Then you can start grouting the seams with an emery mesh, and then prime the drywall and apply a solid finishing putty (1-2 mm thick) on it. The starting one is not required here, since the surface of the sheets is very even. You need to putty the entire surface at once, without long breaks, so that there are no cracks.
After finishing the finish, it is given 4-5 days to dry, after which it is sanded and primed. The work is completed by painting the surface with a roller or spray gun. If you decide to paste over the suspended ceiling with wallpaper, then he does not need solid putty and polishing. The texture of the rolled material hides small irregularities well.
Drywall has acquired the status of an indispensable material for repairs in an apartment. What they don’t make of it: various arches, niches, line the walls. We have already talked about multi-level structures, but we have not yet had time to mention plasterboard suspended ceilings. Today we will fix this and give you detailed instructions with a video and step-by-step photos of our work.
What makes drywall ceilings better than ordinary plaster?
- The ability to level any irregularities with the least effort. If you do this with the help, the maximum allowable layer will be 5 cm (if we talk about Rotband). A thicker layer will need to be applied in two passes.
- In the frame, you can hide any communications, pipes, wires.
- You can integrate almost any directional lighting into the ceiling. Well-chosen light will significantly change the final look of the repair.
- Finishing ceilings with plasterboard allows you to create single- and multi-level structures with different designs and shapes of bends, as well as.
- In addition, you can additionally build in isolation from extraneous sounds, insulate the room.
- Installation of drywall on the ceiling is carried out by a dry method, so there will be no need to wait for the solution to dry. After all, you don't have to be a professional plasterer to get a perfectly smooth surface.
However, filing the ceiling with drywall has its drawbacks:
- Reducing the height of the room by at least 5 cm due to the high profile height.
- Difficult installation process for a novice master. Be sure to have a puncher and a screwdriver. It is desirable to have a laser level.
- In the future, cracks may appear at the joints of the sheets.
- It's hard to deal with alone. At a minimum, during the sheathing, the help of a partner will be required.
Of course, for beginners it is even more difficult than drywall. Evaluate all the pros and cons for yourself and make a choice - what you like best.
Here we will look at how to assemble a plasterboard suspended ceiling of the simplest single-level design.
Required Tools
Before making a plasterboard ceiling, purchase the missing tools and materials. 
List of tools and accessories:
- guide profiles 28*27 mm (PN);
- ceiling profiles 60*27 mm (PP);
- direct suspensions;
- single-level profile connectors - crabs;
- metal scissors;
- self-adhesive sealing tape;
- anchor wedges;
- dowel-nails;
- paint thread (cord-breaking device);
- laser level or hydraulic level;
- bubble level 2 m;
- rule 2.5 m;
- drywall sheets;
- putty for seams;
- sickle - reinforcing tape for seams;
- perforator with a drill;
- screwdriver;
- hardened self-tapping screws for metal with a frequent pitch of 25-35 mm;
- self-tapping screws with a press washer;
- acrylic primer;
- if necessary, sound and heat insulation;
- extensions for profiles, if required;
- spatula wide, narrow and angular;
- standard tools: tape measure, hammer, knife.
This is such a long list, but you probably already have half.
Important nuances - what beginners need to know
To calculate the required number of profiles, fasteners and drywall, you should first familiarize yourself with the installation technology. Next, the calculation will be shown on the example of a specific room and the consumption of materials will be shown.
If you do not know which drywall is best for the ceiling, or profiles for the frame, then buy products from well-known manufacturers, for example, the leader of them is Knauf. By buying cheap low-quality profiles, you risk getting a sagging ceiling over your head.
- As for the hydro level, it is needed in order to mark a perfectly horizontal line on the walls, regardless of the curvature of the room. It is based on the physical law of communicating vessels, so it will need to be filled with water to work. Two water level vessels on opposite walls will show the same level. You will make marks and then connect them with painter's thread. In general, you can’t do without a hydro level if you don’t have a laser level, because you are tormented by the usual bubble level to draw a line around the perimeter of the room, in the end it will still turn out to be uneven.
- The manufacture of plasterboard ceilings can be either from ordinary sheets or from moisture resistant ones. If you are making repairs in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen or loggia, use a moisture-resistant one: it contains hydrophobic additives. These two types differ in the color of cardboard: moisture-resistant green, and ordinary - gray.
Each type of drywall has its own color - Plasterboard ceiling sheathing usually occurs in sheets with a thickness of 8 to 9.5 mm. Recall that heavier sheets are usually used for walls - 12.5 mm thick.
- The sealing tape is a porous material with a self-adhesive backing, 30 mm wide. It is used to fasten the structure so that the plasterboard ceiling frame fits snugly against the concrete and transmits less sounds.
Ceiling markings and rail fasteners
- First you need to find the lowest corner in the room. To do this, measure each corner with a tape measure, and preferably the center of the room. In the lowest corner, you need to make a mark at a distance of 5 cm from the ceiling if you do not plan to build in fixtures, or 8 cm if there are fixtures.
- Now, using the hydro level, make marks at the same level as the first point on each corner.
Cord-breaker for marking the wall (painting cord) - Now you need to make a beating to evenly connect all the points with a horizontal line. Stretch the paint cord between the marks and release it sharply so that it hits the wall - the paint on the cord will leave an even imprint. Make lines around the entire perimeter of the room.
Taping with masking tape Before hemming the ceiling with drywall, we recommend that you make notes about the position of the profiles on the walls. So it will be easier to look for them when attaching sheets to the frame.
- Now fix the guide profiles to the walls. To do this, attach one guide to the line (the bottom edge of the profile - along the line) and make marks on the wall through the finished holes on the profile. There should also be holes along the edges of the profile, so if there are none, step back 10 cm and do it yourself. Drill holes according to the marks.
- Then you need to glue the sealing tape on the profile and fix it with dowels to the wall. We fasten at least 3 dowels.
- Next, mark up the main ceiling profiles. Since the width of the drywall sheet is 120 cm, usually the profiles are placed at a distance of 40 cm from each other in order to fix the sheet at the edges and in the middle. So, make lines on the ceiling in 40 cm increments.
- With such a small step of ceiling profiles, jumpers between them are needed only at the transverse joints of the sheets, that is, every 2.5 m (standard length of drywall sheets). This means that the suspension pitch for ceiling profiles should be an integer number of times smaller, for us 50 cm will be optimal. It should be noted that the first row of suspensions will be twice as close to the wall, therefore 50:2 = 25 cm. The second row will be 25 +50 = 75 cm and so on in increments of 50 cm.
- For marking, attach the suspension at the desired points on the ceiling and make 2 marks for each under the anchors. There will be a lot of dust while drilling holes, so be sure to wear goggles and a respirator.
Frame installation
- We fix the hangers with anchors, they hold the suspended ceiling much better. The dowels can be pulled out by pulling a little with pliers, so they are not suitable for the ceiling. Also do not forget to stick the sealing tape on the hangers. When you fix the suspension, bend its ends properly so that they bend as much as possible. During subsequent fastening, they should no longer sag, otherwise the profiles will not be fixed unevenly.
Profile extension attachment - Now you can start installing ceiling profiles. They are 3m long, so if your room is smaller, cut them with metal shears 1cm shorter than the room. If the room is longer, you will need special connecting fasteners to increase the length of the profile.
Note! When building a profile in length, the joints of adjacent profiles should not be on the same line. Also, there should be a suspension near the joints.
- Fastening ceiling profiles to suspensions starts from the corners of the room. To secure them without sagging, your partner should take the rule and hold it with a wide grip (so as not to sag) to the two rails that form an angle (i.e. the rule should be diagonal). This way it will maintain your profile at the level of the guides. At this point, you will screw the profile to the hangers with 4 self-tapping screws with a press washer. Also, do not forget to attach the profiles to the guides. So that they do not hang out, it is better to buy self-tapping screws without a drill.
- The corners are ready, now we fix the center of the ceiling profiles on the suspensions. If the rule cannot be applied to the center in the same way, then apply it exactly from the starting profile. Be sure to check for evenness with a long level. After attaching the hangers, bend the excess length of the ends up.
- In the same way, fasten the second profile, supporting the rule. Then go to the opposite wall and attach the next 2 ceiling profiles. Then go to the center and hang the remaining profiles, relying on the already installed ones.
- Now you need to fix the jumpers where the drywall joints will be (every 2.5 m). They are fastened with the help of special single-level mounts - crabs. In the right places, screw the crabs on 4 self-tapping screws. If you retreat from the main ceiling a small distance, then the crabs may not pass from above, so you will have to hang them in advance.
Fasteners for suspended frame - Cut the jumpers from the ceiling profile and fasten to the crab with 4 self-tapping screws, bending the antennae. It is not necessary to fasten the jumpers to the profiles from below, they will be fixed by drywall.
- If necessary, mineral wool is usually used. It is cut into rectangles larger than the cells and fits inside the frame, additionally clinging to the suspensions. To enhance the effect, you can also fill the cavities of the profiles with it. Mineral wool absorbs sound very well, but when working with it, be sure to use a respirator and gloves.
If you want to see the installation of a plasterboard ceiling in action, the video tutorial will help you learn some of the nuances of the work:
Fastening drywall to frame
Note! Before fixing drywall, it must be in the room for at least a couple of days. However, it can only be stored in a horizontal position.
Self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed - Start fastening drywall to the ceiling by chamfering: you need to cut the edges with a knife at an angle so that the putty then penetrates well into the gap. There is already a chamfer on the glued ends, so there is no need to remove it there.
- Start fastening the sheet from the corner with a pitch of 20 cm screws, retreat 10-15 mm from the edges. On adjacent sheets, screw the screws at different levels, in a run. Their hats should be recessed so that they do not stick out, check this by touch.
- Attach the sheets to each other in a run-up, shifting at least one cell. They do not need to be joined closely, there should be a gap of 2 mm around the perimeter. The GK sheet must be fixed along the perimeter (including to the wall guides), and in the center.
Note! If you have outside corners in your room, avoid joining the sheet near the corner. If you do not make a joint at least 10 cm from the corner, then a crack will soon appear.
Material counting
Now that you know the installation of a drywall false ceiling, you can calculate the amount of materials needed and the cost of installing it. To do this, it is best to make a drawing of the room indicating all dimensions and place all fasteners and profiles on it.
Ceiling scheme For a room of 20.8 square meters, we needed:
- 99 suspensions;
- 8 sheets of drywall;
- 19 ceiling profiles;
- 8 guides;
- 24 crabs.
The approximate price of installation work for hired workers is about 400 rubles per square. You can calculate the benefit if you do everything yourself - saving 8320 rubles. As you can see, it turns out a good benefit, you can even recoup the purchase of tools.
Seam sealing
Now let's talk about the last stage - how to putty the plasterboard ceiling and seal the seams. First of all, treat the seams with a primer and wait for it to dry. No need to tear the cardboard off the sheets. To seal the seams, you need to use especially strong putties, for example, Knauf Uniflott, the usual one will not work for this.
- Dilute the putty according to the instructions on the package. First seal all the seams against the wall, then all the joints and caps of the self-tapping screws. To seal factory seams, first fill it in, and then align the recess along the edges of the sheets with a wide spatula.
A new type of Knauf edge allows you to apply putty into the seams more denselyNote! Since 2013, Knauf has been producing plasterboards with a new edge (PLUK), which increases the strength of the putty at the joints and makes it possible not to use a reinforcing mesh on such an edge. Therefore, at the factory joints of the sheets, you can not use the mesh if you seal the seams with Knauf Uniflott putty.
- When the putty dries, stick self-adhesive tape (serpyanka) on the seams. Glue it overlap at the intersections. Dilute a little more putty and cover the sickle and the remaining small irregularities. Puttying the plasterboard ceiling in the corners is best done with an angled spatula.
- So you minimize the appearance of cracks at the joints. To enhance the effect, you can. Now the surface is ready for further puttying in the usual way. If you still have small protrusions after sealing the seams, then the finishing layer will hide everything.
In this article, we examined in detail how to sheathe a ceiling with drywall, and now you can make it at home with your own hands. We have described the process of creating a single-level structure, but if you decide, the order of work will change slightly.
Overhaul in an apartment or house involves the complete replacement of all finishing materials, flooring and ceiling. According to experts and ordinary people, the most difficult process is the repair of the ceiling. Bringing the old ceiling into proper shape is a long and laborious process. This is due to the unevenness of the tiled floors with their different levels. In order to eliminate such defects, it is necessary to resort to modern technologies, as an option, you can use a system of stretch ceilings. But such a ceiling is quite an expensive option.
In order to save money and time, you can make a false ceiling from plasterboard. Its advantages include relatively simple installation and not very high price. How to make a false ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands, we will consider in this article.
Necessary tools for installation
In order to independently make a false ceiling from drywall, you must first prepare all the necessary materials and tools. So that in the process of work there are no problems with the lack of a particular tool. Because it will delay work. In order to get started, you need the following tools:
- A water or laser level, it is necessary for the most accurate marking along which the guide profile will be installed. The water level is not expensive, but it has great accuracy. Two people are required to operate it. If the budget is not limited, you can purchase a more expensive option - this is a laser level.
- Level. The length must be at least 2 meters, which will determine the evenness of the fixed drywall.
- A perforator is required during the installation of the profile frame.
- Screwdriver, you can also use a drill. They are necessary to fix the profile and drywall.
- Smaller tools, but no less important, include: a tape measure, at least 5 meters, a fitter's knife, with spare blades, a pencil, metal scissors. Also, if possible, you can use a grinder with a circle for cutting metal or a hacksaw.
False ceiling materials
After all the necessary tools have been prepared, it is necessary to purchase materials from which the suspended ceiling will be mounted.
Suspended ceiling profile
In order to properly make a metal profile frame, it is necessary to purchase two types of profile: guide and ceiling. To obtain a high-quality design, it is recommended to use profiles from the same manufacturer. In order to calculate the amount of the guide profile, it is necessary to measure the perimeter of the room. For example, for a 5x4 room, you need to purchase 7 pieces (and one spare) of three-meter profiles. If you buy profiles 4 meters long, then you will need 5 pieces. If you plan to install a multi-level ceiling, you need to calculate the length of the additional structure. The ceiling, C-shaped profile is calculated according to a different scheme. The plasterboard sheet has a width of 1250 mm, its fastening must be done in increments of 600 mm. For such an example of a room, it is better to use a profile 4 meters long, this will reduce the amount of waste. For marking, a five-meter wall must be divided into equal parts of 60 cm, as a result, 8 ceiling profiles are needed. This calculation serves as the basis for calculating the required number of profiles. If the design is more complex or has several levels, they are calculated separately and added to the main part.
Gypsum board for false ceiling
This material is available in 3 types: ordinary, refractory and moisture resistant. For a room in which there is no high humidity, you can use the usual type of drywall. You should not take drywall for a false ceiling with a thickness of more than 8-10 mm. A large thickness will only increase the weight of the entire structure, while it will not bring any benefit. Also, the installation of a false ceiling from plasterboard of large thickness will become more complicated, due to the large weight. The calculation of the false ceiling, namely the required number of sheets, can be done using the formula. To do this, the total area of the ceiling must be divided by the area of \u200b\u200bone drywall sheet, as a result, the required number of sheets will be obtained. As an example, we use the previous dimensions of the room. The area of a standard drywall sheet is approximately 3 square meters. For a room of 20 sq.m, you will need 7 sheets. For reinsurance, it is better to take 1 sheet more.
False ceiling mount
For a room with an area of 20 sq.m, and a ceiling structure of one level, you need to purchase 40-50 pieces of direct suspension. This fastener is relatively inexpensive, so the exact amount can not be calculated. If the false ceiling involves several levels, and the drywall sheets will be thick, it is better to buy more hangers, this will provide greater reliability. If the design involves several curly levels, then the suspensions can be calculated independently, given the step between them of 600-700 mm. You may also need connecting elements - crabs, or replace them with a connection of direct suspensions. To attach the guide profile to the wall, use 8x10 dowels. Self-tapping screws are used to connect the profiles to each other. They will need a sufficient number. To fix drywall sheets to the profile frame, you need to use self-tapping screws 25 mm long, they also need a lot.
Plasterboard suspended ceiling installation
After preparing and acquiring all the necessary materials and tools, you can get to work. The first thing you need to start with is markup. In order to correctly mark the location of the guide profile, it is necessary to use a water level. In order to install spotlights in a suspended ceiling, or to fix a layer of thermal insulation, it is necessary to step back from the ceiling by at least 10 cm. This procedure is carried out on all walls and corners.
Installation of the false ceiling frame begins with a guide profile. After the basting is ready, it is necessary to make holes for the dowels with a puncher. Attach the guide profile to the wall with dowels at intervals of 30-40 cm, in the corners reduce the interval to 10-15 cm.
When the guide profile is installed around the entire perimeter of the room, it is necessary to make markings with an interval of 60 cm using a tape measure. This marking is necessary for the exact location of the ceiling profile. If the ceiling is on the same level, the ceiling profile is mounted in one direction, so markings are needed on two opposite walls. If the ceiling design is more complex, and it is necessary to make a grid from the ceiling profile, then markings must be done on each wall.
When all the markings are applied, you can proceed to fixing the direct suspension to the ceiling. The interval between suspensions should be 60-70 cm. A deviation of a couple of centimeters does not play any role. When all the suspensions are installed, you can proceed with the installation of the frame for the false ceiling. For this, the main part is installed - the ceiling profile. It is fixed along the entire length with direct suspensions and at the junctions with the guide profile.
In our example, a ceiling profile 4 meters long is used, with the same width of the room. This allowed one profile to be used. If the length of the metal profile is not enough, two profiles can be used. For such a case, the joints must be reinforced with additional fasteners from direct suspensions. All other fastening must be done as in the case of a solid profile.
It is very important to control the level of the ceiling profile. It must be checked with a two meter level throughout the process of connecting with direct hangers. If this indicator is not controlled after the end of work, and the installation of drywall sheets, the surface will have a wavy nature. The false ceiling frame must be leveled in different directions and in different places. If there are irregularities, they must be corrected immediately. When the frame of the metal profile is ready, it is necessary to conduct electrical wiring for future lamps, if it is necessary to insulate the ceiling, a heater is fixed between the profiles. And so the frame is ready for the start of the next stage, to fix the drywall sheets.
Sheathing the frame with plasterboard and putty work
After the frame is ready, you can proceed with the installation of drywall sheets. The process itself is quite simple, you need to lift the sheets and fix them with self-tapping screws. The interval between fasteners should be 10-15 cm. It is worth paying attention to a whole sheet of drywall, they have beveled edges, this is necessary for the puttying process. Thus, there will be more putty at the joints, and this will prevent the appearance of cracks. If pieces are used during puttying, the edges must be cut off a little. The entire ceiling is "sewn up" with plasterboard sheets.
When installing drywall, pay attention to the heads of the screws. In the process of fastening, they must be deepened into drywall by 1 mm. If the self-tapping screws protrude above the surface, this will interfere with puttying. After fixing all the drywall, you need to cut holes for the fixtures. To do this, it is better to use a special nozzle for a drill or puncher.
Ways to decorate a suspended ceiling
Today, there are many ways that will allow. The very first way is to use different colors, it looks especially advantageous on ceilings with different levels. Also, the ceiling can be decorated with polyurethane or foam baguettes. How and with what to decorate the ceiling depends only on personal preferences and tastes, since it is you who live under this ceiling. Therefore, the ceiling must meet all the requirements of the residents of this house or apartment.
So, the conclusion of this article: you can make a false ceiling with plasterboard yourself. The main thing is to carefully markup, and check the level of all planes. And the result will be a smooth ceiling with a good finish.
Video: do-it-yourself drywall ceiling
September 28, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)
Drywall installation is the easiest and fastest way to rough finish the ceiling, which allows you to give it any shape, change the height, etc. Of course, this work contains its own nuances, however, despite this, every home craftsman can cope with it. The only thing is that you first need to familiarize yourself with the theory, which we will do below - then I will try to tell you in as much detail as possible how to make a drywall ceiling on your own.
Drywall installation
Sheathing the ceiling with plasterboard is carried out in several stages:
Stage 1: preparation of tools and materials
So, before you start work, you need to prepare the following tools and materials for installing drywall:
| Inventory | Purpose and quantity |
| The drywall itself | To purchase the required amount of drywall, you should calculate the quadrature of the ceiling, and then add a small margin, for example, one sheet; |
| Frame elements | This includes the following materials:
|
| Finishing materials | At the finishing stage, you will need the following materials:
|
| Tools | As for the tools, you will need;
|
When all the materials are prepared, you can start marking.
Stage 2: marking
Before you make a plasterboard ceiling, you must definitely mark up. It depends on it how smooth the surface of the ceiling will turn out. Therefore, it is necessary to approach this stage very responsibly.
First of all, consider how to mark up for a flat ceiling, which is mounted if the purpose of the work is to level the surface. The work is performed in the following sequence:
- if you are not faced with the task of reducing the height of the ceiling, then you need to position the structure as close to the base as possible. To do this, you need to find the lowest point on the ceiling and project it onto the wall;
- then 3 cm must be retreated from the point on the wall - this is the thickness of the profile and suspension. The new point must be moved to all corners of the room. To do this, you can use the water level;
- further between the points in the corners of the room you need to beat off the lines. To do this, you need a masking cord, which is fixed at the points and pulled parallel to the future line. After that, the cord must be released like a bowstring, as a result of which it will hit the wall and leave behind a trace in the form of a straight line between two points;
The resulting lines are marking the location of the ceiling profile guides. To make sure the lines are drawn correctly, apply a level to them; - now you need to mark up on the ceiling itself, but before you do this, you need to decide on the direction of the sheets. Lines should be drawn along it in increments of 40 cm. To do this, first mark the points on each of the walls, then beat off the lines between them with a masking cord according to the scheme described above;
- then on each line you need to designate the location of the suspensions with a step of 50 cm;
- perpendicular lines should be drawn through the obtained points. As a result, rectangles should turn out on the ceiling. Perpendicular lines are necessary so that the suspensions are located exactly and strictly perpendicular to the ceiling profiles.
This completes the marking process. It should be noted that when installing a multi-level ceiling, the process of performing this operation is somewhat more complicated. After performing all the above actions, a second-level contour is applied - it can be a semicircle or just a curved line.
In this case, you also need to beat off the line of the second level guides on the wall. I must say that the ceiling profile and suspensions can be located on the ceiling according to the markings of the first level.
In some cases, the second level frame is attached to the first level frame. Another common mounting option is mounting rails to the ceiling, which allows you to use a profile instead of hangers for mounting the frame and thereby get a more rigid structure.
All these nuances of the frame should be displayed on the ceiling, so that in the future there will be no difficulties during its installation.
Stage 3: frame assembly
Now let's look at how to do it right. If the design is single-level, then the work is carried out in the following sequence:
- installation of the frame should begin with the installation of guides on the walls. Let me remind you that they should be perpendicular to the direction of the drywall sheet and, accordingly, the ceiling profile.
You can fasten the guides with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails, depending on the type of wall. In the process of installing guides, use the building level to avoid mistakes;
- now you need to fix the suspensions on the ceiling according to the markings. For this, you can also use self-tapping screws;
- after mounting the hangers, you need to install the profiles, after cutting them according to the markings. To do this, the profiles should be inserted into the guides and fixed in the hangers.
At first glance, this work is not difficult, however, it should be borne in mind that the profile bends under its own weight, therefore, before fixing it in the suspension, it is necessary to level it. Otherwise, the plasterboard ceiling will turn out to be convex and unattractive.
To level the ceiling, you can use the long rule with the built-in level. Another option is to install the profiles that are extreme from the walls, and then pull the threads between them, which will serve as beacons for installing the remaining profiles;
- now it remains only to mount the jumpers. To do this, you need to install crabs (crosses) in increments of about 50 cm, and fix profile trimmings between them. All these parts are fastened with self-tapping screws.
Often, home craftsmen are interested in how to fasten one profile and at the same time align them. In this case, you will have to use props and adjust their height.
This completes the installation process. If you need to make a curved ceiling, first of all, you need to make its outline. To do this, you need to bend the profile by making cuts on its sides. Otherwise, the installation principle is the same as when installing a flat frame.
Stage 4: installation of drywall
The next step is to install drywall on the ceiling. Since drywall is quite large and heavy, this job is best done with one or even two assistants.
Many people are interested in how to raise drywall to the ceiling yourself if there is no assistant? Solving this "puzzle" is quite simple with the help of mops. The length of the handle of such a mop should be higher than the height of the ceiling.
In order for the mop to be supported on the wall with an indent, two brackets 35-40 cm long should be attached to it. As a result, you can lean the brackets on the wall, while the mop will be about 35 cm from the wall. The second mop can be made without brackets .
- before you hem drywall, you should rest the mop on the wall over the area you plan to sheathe. The distance between the mop and the frame should be about 10 cm;
- then drywall with one edge should be put on a mop;
- then you need to raise the second edge of the sheet, and support it with a second mop, pressing it against the frame;
- now you need to press the edge of the drywall to the frame, which rested on the first mop;
- then you need to fix the drywall on the frame with self-tapping screws. The step between the latter should be about 17 cm;
- according to this principle, the entire ceiling is sheathed.
Home craftsmen are often interested in how many layers of drywall do you need on the ceiling? Subject to the technology of mounting the frame and the drywall itself, one layer is enough.
I must say that there are other ways to sheathe the frame with drywall on your own. In particular, there are special jacks for lifting. However, the method described above is the simplest.
If you need to sheathe a vertical curved plane, for example, in a multi-level ceiling, cuts should be made from the back of the sheet. After that, it will not be difficult to bend the material under the required radius.
Stage 5: Rough finishing
We figured out how to assemble the frame and hem drywall. Finally, consider how the finishing is performed.
This procedure begins with priming:
- the primer should be thoroughly shaken before use and poured into a roller tray;
- then the roller must be dipped into the ground, slightly squeezed on a special platform of the pallet, and then treated with it on the surface of the ceiling. Make sure that the soil lays down in an even thin layer;
- after the drywall surface on the ceiling dries, you need to apply the primer again.
Further work technology is as follows:
- finishing work begins with chamfering the edges of drywall sheets. The width of the chamfer should be about 5 mm. You can cut it with the help of the mounting.
If the edge of the sheet is initially rounded, the edge can not be removed; - then a self-adhesive mesh should be glued to the joints of the sheets;
- then it is necessary to cover with starting putty the caps of the screws and the joints of the sheets;
- then plasterboard ceilings are puttied with starting putty. The latter must be typed on a wide spatula, then press the tool with a blade to the ceiling and tilt it at an acute angle. To apply putty, you need to make smooth, but at the same time fairly fast movements along the plane of the ceiling;
- In order to qualitatively finish the surface, the hardened putty should be rubbed with a mesh grater, removing all serious flaws on the surface;
- after that, you need to wipe the surface with a damp cloth and then primed;
- after that, you need to apply a finishing layer of soil. The principle of operation remains the same as with the starting putty, the only thing is that the composition is applied in a thinner layer. And you should try to apply the coating as carefully as possible;
- the work is now almost complete. Finally, consider how to do the grinding yourself, on which the final result depends. To do this, you need a small skin.
The task of this operation is to erase the slightest flaws on the surface of the ceiling. Therefore, grinding is necessary in bright light.
Many people are interested in how to make a floating ceiling? For these purposes, LEDs are used that illuminate the contours of the ceiling. The latter, as a rule, are laid in ceiling plinths.
Here, perhaps, is all the information on how to properly make a plasterboard ceiling.
Conclusion
As we found out, sheathing the ceiling with drywall is generally not difficult. However, in order for the structure to turn out to be even and rigid, it is necessary to adhere to the technology, which we familiarized with above.
If you have any questions regarding the installation of drywall on the ceiling, ask them in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.
September 28, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!