Plastic panels are often used to decorate the ceiling, especially in the bathroom. This material is not afraid of high humidity, it is easy to care for, in addition, it is light in weight and beautiful. appearance.

All these properties plastic panels explain their great popularity when choosing ceiling coverings in the bathroom.

1. One of the main advantages of plastic is that he is not afraid of moisture, that's why he is optimal material for finishing the ceiling in the bathroom, where there is almost always high humidity.
2. Due to high humidity and poor ventilation, mold or mildew may develop in the bathroom. fungus, But they do not multiply on plastic panels and do not damage them.
3. Exists big choice of the specified material, so you can always choose it in accordance with the interior of the bathroom.
4. With the help of panels it is possible to hide all the irregularities and surface errors, therefore hinged plastic ceiling It turns out even and smooth. In addition, in the interceiling space you can hide not only electrical wiring, but also other communications.

When choosing panels, do not confuse wall and ceiling panels, since those used for the ceiling are lighter and less rigid, which makes their installation easier.

It is worth mentioning that such panels are light in weight, easy to install, have a long service life and the cost of the specified material is low.

Preparatory work

Before installing plastic panels in the bathroom, you first need to prepare the surface. To do this, if there was another suspended ceiling on it, it is removed, the existing cracks must be sealed with putty.

IN in this case There is no need to level the surface, as this occurs during installation of the sheathing.

At the stage of preparation for installation, the required number of panels, metal profiles and fasteners is calculated.

To cover the ceiling with plastic panels, you will need the following materials and tools:

• metallic profile;
• plastic panels;
• fasteners;
• hammer drill;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• water and building level;
• measuring instruments;
• hacksaw for metal;
• tool for creating holes for recessed lights.

Creating a wireframe

First, using a water level, a line for the future ceiling is drawn on the wall around the perimeter of the room. If you have tiles on the walls, and they were laid level, then this simplifies the work, since you can focus on the seams.

Metal carcass

Before starting work, you need to decide what kind of lamps you plan to use to illuminate the room. If they are overhead, then the distance between the ceiling and the main surface can be minimal.

When using built-in luminaires, this distance should be about 10 cm. A UD profile is installed along the perimeter of the room along the intended line; dowels are installed in increments of 40-60 cm.

To speed up installation, when attaching the profile to the wall, you can use dowels quick installation, which do not need to be twisted, but hammered in with a hammer.

On next stage cut the CD profile to the required length, consider how you plan to install the plastic panels, since they are mounted perpendicular to the profile. Sections of the CD profile are installed in the UD profile, and the distance between them should be about 40-60 cm.

In that case, when the length of the profile exceeds 150 cm, hangers are used for additional fixation, if less, then fixing it in the starting bars is enough. If you plan to install a chandelier or pendant lamp, then additional profiles are mounted in this place.

Wood

Plastic can also be mounted on a wooden frame made of wooden beams and slats.

And also with the help frameless system, When wooden sheathing attached directly to the rough ceiling, provided that it is level and that recessed (spot) lamps will not be installed.

For a frameless design you will need:

• hammer drill
• slats
• dowel nails 60 x 6 mm
• fishing line

Step-by-step instruction:

1. first attach the two outer slats with dowels to concrete slab or with self-tapping screws to the rough wooden ceiling(distance between drilling points 30 cm. 2 cm from edges);
2. stretch the fishing line between them, crosswise;
3. install the remaining slats in increments of 40-60 cm

If the ceiling level needs to be lowered to hide unevenness, lay communications or install spotlights, then a wooden frame must be used.

For this you will need:

• wooden bars 4 X 2.5 cm
• slats
• dowels
• self-tapping screws
• lace
• hammer
• construction level

Sequence of work:

1. we make markings on all walls at the required height;
2. the bars are placed at a distance of no more than 80 cm;
3. The supporting bars are screwed on top perpendicularly, onto which the PVC panels will be attached.

Installation of PVC panels

1. First, a starting strip is fixed along the perimeter of the bathroom to the guide profile.
2. Now cut the panel to the required length, insert one end into the starting strip, then bend the panel a little and insert the second end into the opposite strip.
3. After this, using screws, the panel is pressed against the sheathing.
4. The next panel is also inserted into the starting strip, first from one side and then from the other, pressed against the first panel, eliminating the gap between them and fixing it with self-tapping screws. This work must be done carefully, as the panels can be damaged.
5. The last strip is cut to the required length, and then, using a knife, it is adjusted to fit the width. After this, it is inserted into the starting strips, and it is not necessary to fix this panel.

Material calculation

The dimensions of plastic panels (PVC) for the ceiling are: width 25 cm, but it can be up to 50 cm, thickness is usually 5-10 mm, standard length is 2.7 meters, but can be up to 6 m. The metal profile has a length of 3 m .

To determine the number of panels, calculate the area of ​​the bathroom and divide it by the area of ​​one panel (indicated on the packaging). Be sure to add 15% to the result obtained, this is necessary for a section of panels.

It is easy to calculate the number of profiles mounted on the wall; it will be equal to the perimeter of the room divided by 3, you will get required amount planks in pieces.

To calculate the number of CD profiles, you need to make a sheathing diagram on paper, taking into account the distance between the profiles. The number of screws and dowels is calculated taking into account the step of their installation, and a small reserve is required.

Installation of lamps

The lamps in the bathroom are installed in the ceiling; before installing the panels, electrical wiring is installed, leave large tails, it’s better to cut them off later than you won’t have enough wire. The wire must be double-braided and placed in corrugated hoses. After laying the wiring, check its functionality.

In places where spotlights are installed, a hole is made in plastic panels; this is best done using a special crown, but you can also use a knife, only carefully.

The lamps can be installed immediately, after which the panels are fixed, or you can remove the wires and install the lamps after installing all the panels.

If you plan to install several spotlights in the bathroom, then they are connected in parallel, then if the light bulb burns out in one of them, the others will continue to work normally.

Scheme parallel connection spotlights via transformer:

Connection diagram for 220 V spotlights:

Conclusion

There is a large selection of plastic panels used for ceiling finishing, so with their help you can implement a variety of design solutions.

They allow you to visually change the size of the room; in some cases, the panels are even mounted diagonally, but this significantly complicates installation and increases material consumption, so this option is rarely used.

Anyone can implement this solution with their own hands. House master, in this case, the result is not only functional, beautiful and durable, you also save significant money by making a ceiling from PVC panels with your own hands, which is important in our time.

Useful video

DIY ceiling made of PVC panels video:

In contact with

High humidity and changes in temperature are factors that create a special microclimate in the bathroom. Therefore, finishing materials for decoration should be selected with special care. One of the most optimal options– the ceiling in the bathroom is made of plastic panels. This practical material, meeting user requirements, plus slats are sold in large assortment color solutions. But we will tell you in detail how to lay out the finishing, what to buy for this and what features of the technology to observe.

A few rules will help you decide on the choice of material:

1. It is better to cover small rooms with small-piece products. The format slats will have to be cut; you won’t be able to save money. But you need to select the dies after the layout scheme has been selected - it’s easier to calculate required quantity material.
2. The plastic ceiling in the bathroom must maintain stability of shape, color, and texture. When choosing materials, pay attention to dyes; they must be durable. It’s a good idea to check for resistance to corrosion, rot, and mold. To do this, the panels must be treated with antiseptics during the production process; regular self-processing antiseptic compounds.

Color, shape, pattern – it’s all up to the taste of the buyers.

Available for sale the following types facing material:

• rack – long single-color narrow stripes up to 100 mm wide;
• standard – tiles with or without frieze up to 370 mm wide;
• sheet (seamless) - patterned lamellas of large format, convenient to lay out, but sometimes require trimming.

The sheet ceiling is called seamless due to the tightness of the joints between the edges of the tiles. After laying out, you get a smooth, solid canvas on which the seams are not visible. But slatted panels for the ceiling in the bathroom are considered the most convenient, even despite the installation time. Such dies are installed almost without trimming and help to visually adjust the size of the room. Regardless of the choice, all materials can be combined with each other, creating individual decorative solutions.

Technology for installing PVC ceilings in bathrooms and toilets

The ceiling in the toilet is installed from plastic panels using lathing and glue. The latter option is used only if the base is perfectly level and the ventilation system is working. The sheathing design is suitable in all cases, and is especially good when large differences height, necessity additional insulation, soundproofing the room.

For the manufacture of the sheathing frame, a metal one is suitable, plastic profile or wooden beam. But there are nuances:

• the metal profile must have anti-corrosion treatment;
• the wooden beam should be dried and soaked in antiseptics and antiprenes.

But plastic is best suited - it is a durable material that can withstand moisture and temperature fluctuations and is not a breeding ground for biological life forms.

Marking the room and calculating materials

Preliminary work begins with finding the lowest corner in the room. The height of the sheathing is set off from the ceiling in this corner, plus the thickness of the panel and the distance to the base lamp - make a mark. The same procedure is carried out in all corners. Then the marks are connected into a solid line, this will be the border of the profile installation.

Advice! If the walls of the room are tiled, there is no need to make markings. The upper edge of the tiles will serve as the boundary for installing the sheathing profile. If you make a different reference point, distortions may result and unnecessary gaps may form between the ceiling and the wall cladding.

The formula for calculating the amount of material is simple: divide the ceiling area (length times width) by the area of ​​one panel - the result is the desired number. Add 5% for trimming, defects during work, replacement of worn tiles, the purchase quantity is determined. A supply is required, even if a master is working. During use, the tiles may become unusable, and then it will be difficult to find a shade, but if you have spare tiles, restoration will be quick and easy.

Preparing the frame and protecting it from moisture in the bathroom

Now you need to select the material from which the sheathing frame will be formed. If it is a metal profile, it must have anti-corrosion factory protection, and the wood blocks must be treated with an antiseptic (it’s called “Antiseptic”), then primed with a deep impregnation compound, for example, Neomid, dried well and only then used for arranging the frame. Drying wood takes at least 3-4 days, during which time you can have time to prepare materials and ceilings.

Some tips from the professionals:

• the sheathing frame on which the panels are mounted must be located perpendicular to the location of their layout;
• if built-in lighting fixtures are installed, the distance from the ceiling to the sheathing should be at least 100-120 mm;
• the boundary drawn on the walls is the level of installation of the panels, so the frame is arranged taking into account the height of the lamellas;
• To increase the moisture resistance of timber sheathing, it is better to fill the gap between the pieces of wood with sealant (on silicone based), throw a vapor barrier membrane on top.

The wooden sheathing is mounted from timber up to 200 mm in size with an installation step of 300-400 mm. Fasteners to concrete - dowels, check the horizontal installation using a laser level. A cord stretched around the perimeter of the room will make the task easier - it is easier to use it to check the evenness of the horizontal arrangement of the bars.

The metal profile is attached like this:

1. According to the markings, a profile of types L, UD is mounted. For transverse fastening, buy a CD profile.
2. The planks are attached with self-tapping screws; for concrete, with dowels. First, use a hammer drill to make a hole in the concrete, then attach the profile.
3. Installation of the UD profile around the entire perimeter requires precision; it must be laid out so that there are no gaps left. Then the CD profiles are laid, and only then the plastic L-profile is laid on the mounting elements.

During work, you need to constantly check the horizontal evenness. Will come in handy laser level, he is more precise.

Important! Metal lathing is not installed in rooms without ventilation. This will lead to accelerated corrosion of the metal and collapse of the ceiling.

When installing a suspended ceiling in the bathroom with your own hands, you must not forget about the power cords for lighting fixtures. All communications are hidden in corrugated pipes; cables must be laid before installing the plastic sheathing.

Methods for attaching PVC panels to the ceiling

Now the most important thing: choose the layout of the panels and the method of fastening. You can mount it either with self-tapping screws or with glue. Self-tapping screws hold more firmly, the adhesive version does not damage the tiles. Picking up adhesive composition, pay attention to resistance to moisture and temperature changes. If the indicators change, the glue may become wet, which will lead to the collapse of the structure.

Another option is to staple the ceiling. The fastener is driven into the groove of the die, then overlapped with the next element. This way the hardware remains invisible, but the strength of the fasteners increases.

The layout can be along the room, across or diagonally. The longitudinal method is the simplest: lay tiles along the walls, gradually covering the perimeter and ending in the middle or at a short wall. But there is a small nuance: if you take lamellas 3 m long with a room width of up to 1.5 m, then you can divide each lamella in half and get by with almost no waste - minimal trimming is required. The elements should be laid out so that all the cut edges lie at the junction with the wall panel - in this place the ceiling molding or profile will then be mounted, the uneven edges will be covered.

When choosing a diagonal layout option, you will have to be patient and additional material for trimming. But on the other hand, you get an aesthetic ceiling from PVC panels in the bathroom, plus the shape and size of the room is visually adjusted.

Laying wiring

The work is carried out before the ceiling is sewn up. How to do:

• prepare sections of corrugated pipes and ducts according to the size of the wires;
• prepare wires of the required length, plus 15 cm for reserve;
• thread the wires into corrugated pipes, then place them in boxes;
• secure the boxes with clamps with hangers at the base of the ceiling;
• run the system in test mode and check operation.

If the space between the suspended ceiling and the base is small, you can abandon the boxes by hanging the wires in corrugated pipes.

Requirements for lighting fixtures in the bathroom

The TU regulations visually divide the entire room into zones, which are located from the floor to a wall height of 2.25 m:

1. Zone I is a wet area where humidity reaches 100%. This includes the bath itself, the shower cabin inside and out. Shown are devices with low-voltage parameters (12 V), IP 67 marking, and with a mandatory indicator of the possibility of constant presence in water.
2. Zone II is located above the bathtub bowl at a height of 2.25 m from the edge. In addition to water, this area is exposed to hot steam. Recommended characteristics of lamps: from 45IP, voltage 12-24 V.
3. Zone III is located 0.6 m to the right and left of the boundaries of zone II. There is rarely a jet of water here, but there is often hot steam and splashes. Therefore, lighting devices with a protection rating of 24IP are needed.
4. Zone IV is dry. Occupies the rest of the room. There are no restrictions on lighting fixtures, so the protection index in the first digit does not matter; in the second digit it is better to choose from 1. If the bathroom is large, then the dry zone starts from boundary III plus 3 m.

The main requirements for lamps: strength, practicality, durability. It is much more convenient to buy energy-saving (halogen or LED) lamps; they come in different options color and protection. In addition, the devices provide a fairly soft light that does not irritate the eyes, and well illuminate a room without windows.

Important! If there is a shower stall in the bathroom, the boundaries of the zones begin from the place where the shower hose is installed to the mixer.

Panel installation

We will step by step figure out how to lay lamellas on a frame made of wood or metal. To begin with, a wooden sheathing.

Here's the algorithm:

1. Attach a starting profile. This is a die that resembles a plinth with a recess on one side (along its entire length) where the first one is mounted PVC panel. The side with the groove is attached to the sheathing using the selected fasteners.
2. Then the second panel. It should also fit into the groove, covering the fastening point.

Continue this way until the end of laying, but the finishing die is laid without fasteners at the groove point. After sheathing the ceiling, you need to install a ceiling molding that covers the gap between the profile and the wall.

Algorithm for working on metal lathing:

• cut the panel according to the measured value;
• insert the die into profile L;
• fasten with self-tapping screws;
• lay out the remaining elements, focusing on the fastening method: tongue-and-groove lock or by attaching them to self-tapping screws.

The last tile is cut and laid so that the cut side faces the wall. The gap is closed with a finishing corner, and then the same is installed around the perimeter ceiling plinth.

Ensuring ventilation of the space behind the ceiling

Multi-storey buildings are equipped with a common ventilation shaft. It is adjacent to the kitchen, bathroom and toilet rooms. If the shaft is not clogged, it works normally, the device is enough forced ventilation, installed directly into the outlet socket from the shaft (a hole under the ceiling covered with a grate).

When choosing fans, you need to pay attention to the strength of the material, the accuracy of the diameter and dimensions (measure the opening of the shaft socket), resistance to water vapor, and temperature changes. In addition, the device must withstand the aggressive influence of the external environment, since various air suspensions are pumped through the ventilation shaft, including harmful fumes.

In store departments you can find fully equipped devices, which already include:

• 100 mm duct fan;
• 2 grates;
• flexible air duct 1 m long;
• and a connection timer for 5-30 minutes.

Installation will not be difficult: place one grid in a suspended ceiling structure, the second in the socket of the shaft. The air duct is connected to the grille pipe, then to the fan. Then all the equipment needs to be secured, connected to power, and you can use it. The price of such a kit starts from $15.

There is another option where the air duct is brought to the level of installation of PVC panels. In this case, you need to measure the diagonal along the ceiling and install 2 ventilation grilles. This results in a natural process of ventilation of the ceiling space.

The third method is to locate the air duct according to the floor level. Here it is important to mount the ventilation grille on the opposite side of the exhaust pipe. The cross-section of the grille is equal to the cross-section of the air duct. Then an exhaust fan is installed, to which the entire system is connected. Functionality is ensured by vacuum, which is compensated by the exhaust flow from the room. Such ventilation is convenient even when the device is not working - air flows will still move, since constant draft is ensured in the general ventilation shaft.

How to properly dismantle PVC panels without damage

Having dealt with the installation, let's consider dismantling the suspended ceiling. Work is required when repairing or replacing damaged panels. It should be noted that when updating the panels, it is not necessary to dismantle the entire coating.

The general operating rules are as follows:

• turn off the power to the electrical wires;
• carefully remove the lighting fixtures and insulate the wires;
• remove the ceiling plinth covering the gap by picking up the decorative plate with a knife;
• start disassembling the ceiling from the last lamella, it is trimmed;
• insert a chisel between a pair of slats in the center, remove the panel from the latch, release the entire panel;
• Move the die a little so that it extends to the end of the profile, and pull out the element from the reverse side.

This way you can disassemble the entire finish, getting to the damaged element from the edge, or carry out complete dismantling of the ceiling. The work is carried out carefully, with the fasteners unscrewed, then the panels are pulled out from the end moldings. The fastening bars are removed as follows: loosen the spring, the element itself will jump out of the fastening, without being damaged or scratched. The frame can be removed without any problems: unscrew the fasteners and assemble all the elements.

If it turns out that the die in the middle of the ceiling has deteriorated, you will have to find the corner closest to the replacement zone. Then, using the specified technology, disassemble the coating, then reassemble it in the same order, replacing the defective panel. There is an option for craftsmen: cut a new die from the reverse side, make two cuts 1 cm wide, bend it a little and insert it in place of the damaged element. Installation requires experience; it is used for flexible plastic, otherwise the lamella will simply break.

Bathroom finishing is put to the test high humidity, temperature changes, insufficient air circulation, and therefore wears out faster than in other rooms.

In order not to carry out repairs every 5-7 years, wear-resistant and water-repellent finishing materials are used in the bathroom, in particular ceiling panels made of plastic. They allow you to quickly, inexpensively and beautifully cover the ceiling without leveling the surface or dismantling the old covering. In this article we will tell you how to make a plastic ceiling in the bathroom correctly and efficiently.

Advantages of the design

The ceiling in the bathroom made of plastic panels is suspended structure, which includes a frame made of wood or metal and cladding. Surfaces are finished using this method without first dismantling the old coating, leveling or other preparatory work, which can significantly reduce repair time.

Used for filing plastic sheets, having a hollow structure with internal stiffeners, the width of which is 25 cm and the length of 2.70 m. Finishing the ceiling in the bathroom with this material has the following advantages:

1. The installation of plastic suspended ceilings allows you to quickly level the surface yourself without dismantling the old finish.
2. Finishing hanging panels made of plastic allows you to hide communication elements, ventilation system, wiring.
3. The installation of plastic ceilings is done by hand, thanks to the light weight of the material, as well as a convenient tongue-and-groove fastening system.
4. The metal frame is suitable for noise insulation and waterproofing equipment.
5. If necessary, plastic sheets can be easily removed, replaced and inserted into already finished frame and baseboard.
6. Plastic is a washable and moisture-resistant material, thanks to which the finishing of bathroom ceilings retains a neat appearance longer.

Note! Finishing the ceiling with plastic panels is considered budget option allowing you to complete the repair in a matter of hours. However, complex, shaped, multi-level structures are not made using this material. Experienced craftsmen note that the seams between the canvases with this finishing method will be visible even with professional installation.

Materials

To install a plastic ceiling in a bathroom with your own hands, you will need guides from which the frame, plinth, profiles for connection and fastening, as well as the panels themselves are made. When purchasing, you need to choose high-quality panels that are of sufficient thickness, since the products are inferior price segment often too thin, and therefore transmits light from lamps. The installation of a suspended ceiling made of plastic is carried out using the following components:

Important! Before making a panel ceiling in a sanitary room, you need to purchase all the necessary components. In addition to the starting profile, N-profile and corners, you will need metal guides to make the frame, the panels themselves, as well as self-tapping screws to install them correctly. Due to high humidity in the bathroom, experienced craftsmen It is recommended to use galvanized fasteners, which are resistant to corrosion.

Installation technology

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling begins after finishing the bathroom walls ceramic tiles. Exist various methods manufacturing suspended ceilings: some craftsmen install the frame directly on top of the tiles, while others prefer the last row end the tiles 10-15 cm below the ceiling, and attach the guides above it. The second method of installing panels is considered less convenient, however, it will reduce the risk of damage to the tiles. Next, finishing the ceilings with suspended panels is carried out in the following order:

Note! Before attaching plastic panels to the ceiling, you need to resolve the issue of wiring and lighting. Professional craftsmen It is advised to combine installation with the installation of lamps, since this technology will allow all work to be carried out under lighting. In addition, finishing with panels will help hide the wires and get a perfectly smooth, glossy surface.

Video instruction

A plastic ceiling in a bathroom is a real salvation, because it is this kind of ceiling that fully meets the specific requirements of the bathroom.

Bathroom Features

The bathroom is a rather specific room in our home with high humidity, sudden temperature changes, and is intensively used every day. Wall and ceiling coverings undergo intense wear and quite quickly acquire an unpresentable appearance, which begins to irritate the owners, which ultimately leads to the decision to start repair work. It could be redecorating with updating of facing surfaces. Or maybe major renovation with redevelopment, replacement of plumbing equipment and changes in the overall design of the room.

The functional features of the room impose certain requirements on the materials used:

• Ability to withstand direct contact with water and have increased hydrophobic properties;
• High mechanical strength;
• Sufficient ductility to accommodate change overall dimensions with temperature fluctuations;
• Chemical resistance of protection against the effects of alkalis and acids found in cleaning preparations;
• Resistance of the surface layer to prevent loss of appearance when cleaning;
• Variety of appearance to realize design ideas.

Among the many materials that have necessary qualities, there are a variety of polymers that, at a fairly low cost, allow you to create a wide variety of interiors with imitation of expensive coatings. The plastic ceiling in the new bathroom, shown in the photo, clearly shows what ample opportunities open when creating interiors using a variety of products based on synthetic polymers.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

PVC products used in construction, suitable for installing a plastic ceiling in a bathroom, are made from raw materials using the extrusion method through dies that form the appearance.

Note: The starting raw material has the form of a fine powder, to which plasticizers, stabilizers, various pigments and other additives are added, and the quality of the resulting product and its properties depend on them, first of all. With all the variety of plastic materials for cladding walls and ceilings, there are two main types of products that differ in the way the panels are connected to each other.

The following types of plastic ceilings are currently used:

• Plastic "lining". A material having a three-dimensional structure, which is reinforced with longitudinal stiffeners, forming sealed cavities. The thickness of the plastic ranges from 0.5 to 0.7 mm depending on the manufacturer. The total thickness of the panel is 10 mm. The panel profile imitates tongue and groove wooden board for covering carriages, which influenced its name. The lining is made with minimal addition of softening additives and is mainly painted in the mass in several solid colors. Only some manufacturers, when producing panels “for lining”, use the thermal printing method to impart a certain pattern and color to the surface. Lining is the cheapest available material, which is used when it is necessary to install a plastic ceiling;
• Plastic “seamless” PVC panels. A material similar to plastic lining, but having some features of a locking connection and differing in its composition by the presence of a larger number of plasticizers. These are the most common plastic panels for the bathroom, which are used for cladding walls and ceilings. Panel widths range from 250 to 400 mm, a huge variety of colors and the possibility of obtaining a surface with a three-dimensional texture, glossy or matte surface. Seamless panels are made of plastic with a thickness of 0.7-1 mm and have a total thickness of 5 to 10 mm, which must be taken into account when selecting connecting elements;
• Plastic “rack” PVC panels. Further development technology for manufacturing plastic panels has made it possible to imitate the appearance of popular slatted ceilings made of metal profile. Plastic slatted ceilings for the bathroom are ideally similar to expensive ones aluminum systems. But they are much cheaper and absolutely not afraid of moisture. Despite the changed profile configuration, the strength of the products remained at the same level, which allows the use of such panels without restrictions.

Bathroom ceiling panels made from PVC are not afraid of water and do not burn without forced exposure to flame, which ensures safe use during the entire service life, which is at least 20 years;

• Acrylic panels have become widely used for ceiling structures after aviation technology for production organic glass began to be used in civil engineering. The main drawback of plexiglass was eliminated - increased susceptibility to scratches even with minor mechanical impact. Modern acrylic panels are widely used to create imitation ceiling windows and lampshades, and additional lighting equipment. The ability to apply various patterns allows you to imitate stained glass windows self made when creating interiors. However, with all positive qualities Acrylic is a very difficult material to work with. Increased electrification during processing imposes certain requirements for the absence of dust and the tightness of the inter-ceiling space.

Important: It is advisable to carry out work in clean room or mount ready-made acrylic panels in a protective film, which is removed after installation. And if there is a need to install an acrylic ceiling in the bathroom, it is better to entrust this work to specialists.

Selecting panels for ceiling cladding

Having decided to cover the ceiling in the bathroom with plastic panels, you need to choose the right material, taking into account the size of the room, the location of the door and possible visual changes. For example, if in a narrow bathroom you place ceiling panels parallel to a long wall, and especially if you use slatted ceiling, they distort the apparent perception of space. Such a bathroom will be perceived as even narrower than it actually is. When choosing plastic ceiling panels for the bathroom, you need to take into account their length, which is usually 2.7 m, and for some it can reach 6.0 m, and cut the material correctly to reduce the number of scraps.

Taking into account the peculiarities of technology from different manufacturers, it is necessary to give preference to panels that allow significant elastic deformations without losing their original appearance. The more plastic the material, the easier it is to produce high-quality installation and minimal gaps and no damage.

Tip: When choosing PVC ceiling panels for the bathroom, you need to pay attention to the quality of the locking element. Some “seamless” panels with improperly made locks create a clearly visible step when connected, which spoils the appearance of the ceiling.

Ceiling panels for the bathroom, the plastic of which has an uneven surface, clearly visible when viewed in reflected light, or uneven coloring, are better left on the shelf in the store. This is either a substandard product or a material made from low-quality raw materials in violation of technology.

Shape and color scheme ceiling panels are selected strictly individually, based on the preferences of the owner. You just need to remember that the ceiling is covered, which imposes certain requirements that the architect or designer will advise specifically for each room. Panels, especially colored panels, must be from the same batch to ensure accurate shade. Sometimes the difference can only be noticed after a significant surface area has been installed, when returns or exchanges are no longer possible.

After choosing the type of plastic panels, you need to purchase a certain number of connecting elements. Most often, the so-called starting strip is used, which is excellent for securing panels and forming plastic abutments to any surface.

When purchasing ceiling panels for a bathroom or any other room, especially when the panels are of considerable length, you need to pay attention to the method of their delivery. Woe to the craftsmen who transport panels in bent form do not even suspect that they are simply ruining the material. Despite all the elasticity of the plastic, irreversible deformations occur in the stiffening ribs, which lead to a change in the shape of the surface and twisting of the panel. When installing such material, it is no longer possible to obtain a clear connection between the locks, so gaps between the panels are guaranteed.

Cladding the ceiling in the bathroom with plastic panels

In order to properly install a ceiling in a plastic bathroom, you must:

• Calculate the required amount of facing material, taking into account its location on the ceiling (as discussed in the previous section);
• Calculate the required amount of material for equipping the frame on which the plastic panels for the ceiling of your bathroom will actually be mounted. The frame can be made of wood, or use a galvanized profile for mounting drywall, which is preferable for wet rooms;
• Prepare necessary tool. You will need an accurate level, a stepladder, a tape measure, a tool for cutting plastic, a hammer and a screwdriver. If you are working in a room with concrete walls and ceiling, you will need a small hammer drill;
• Prepare the base, ensuring reliable paint-based penetrating waterproofing and treat the surface of the rough ceiling with antiseptic primers to prevent the formation of mold and mildew in the interceiling space;
• Install the load-bearing frame;
• Install a plastic ceiling in the bathroom using standard fasteners. Panels can be fastened to a wooden frame with a stapler, and on metal frame self-tapping screws with a press washer.

In preparation concrete foundations We will not stop at performing any type of work; the technology is simple and is fully described in the instructions for the use of the specific materials used.

Installation of the power frame

Installing a plastic ceiling in a bathroom begins with measuring the horizontal level of the existing ceiling and determining the minimum possible distance between the ceiling and the plastic panel. If lighting fixtures are to be installed in the ceiling, it is necessary to provide sufficient space for their installation. The instructions for the lighting device contain an installation drawing, which indicates the distance from the point of contact of the lamp plane with the ceiling for its correct placement.

If such a drawing is not available, it is necessary to measure the length of the lamp frame and add 2-3 cm for free access of wires. When installing lamps, it is necessary to take into account the operating temperature of the lamps used, which can reach 500-600 degrees and, if there is insufficient ventilation, damage the plastic ceiling panel.

1. Having marked the “zero point” using an accurate level (water or laser), make the marking horizontal line, corresponding to the level at which it will be located panel ceiling in the bathroom minus the thickness of the panels used.
2. After marking is completed, a starting line is drawn along which the wooden slats 20x30 mm or galvanized UD profile for plasterboard. Due to the fact that wood is used quite rarely, and the technologies are similar, we will consider the procedure for performing work with a profile from plasterboard systems.
3. CD profiles are mounted into the resulting starting strip along the perimeter, perpendicular to the direction of placement of the plastic ones, which will serve as the basis for the future ceiling.

Please note: The maximum distance between adjacent profiles should not exceed 30 cm to avoid sagging of the ceiling when the room temperature changes, and the outermost profiles should be located close to the wall, regardless of their total number.

1. After installing and securing the profiles, it is necessary to mount the adjustable wire hangers so that the distance between them is no more than 60 cm and check the horizontalness of the resulting base using a building level. If necessary, tighten or loosen the intermediate suspensions.
2. If necessary, observing safety rules, carry out and secure electric wires. At this point, the installation of the base for the future ceiling can be considered complete.
3. The PVC ceiling in the bathroom is fixed into a special starting strip, which allows you to maintain the required thermal gap and make the transition from the ceiling panel to the wall surface, which has already been finished, for example, with ceramic tiles. Considering that the panels in the bathroom are installed on the ceiling, where the heated air rises and the most heat, when measuring the distance, it is necessary to take into account the linear expansion of the plastic, which is about 4 mm on one linear meter. With a significant length of the room, this can lead to deformation of the ceiling and destruction of the places where the panel is attached to the frame.
4. Having cut the required length of the panel for the ceiling in the bathroom, bending it slightly, carefully install it in the starting strip strictly perpendicular to the wall, securing it with screws to each profile. The appearance of the entire ceiling will depend on the quality of installation of the first strip.
5. Then we insert the next panel into the starting strip at some distance from the previous one and, carefully bringing it in, snap the locks into place, making sure there are no gaps. After making sure that the panel is in the correct position, we attach it to the supporting beams of the ceiling.
6. We must not forget about installing the lamps, cut a neat hole in the panel in advance to accommodate them and bring the ends of the wires out.
7. Minor difficulties may arise when installing the last panel, which will need to be adjusted not only in length, but also in width and carefully inserted into the starting strip.
8. After completing the last operation, we can consider that the installation of plastic ceilings in the bathroom is complete. If necessary, you can stick a decorative plinth around the perimeter of the ceiling, which will correspond to the overall style decision.
9. When a suspended plastic ceiling is installed in the bathroom of a renovated room, imitating an aluminum slatted structure, the technology is almost no different from installation regular panels, taking into account that specific fasteners are used.
10. A special L or P is mounted around the perimeter of the room shaped profile, on which plastic slatted panels are laid. A universal support rail is used as a supporting element, equipped with grips for attaching slats. The tire is installed on adjustable hangers to the required height.
11. Once the frame is installed, the slats simply cling to the tire fasteners and, as the space is filled, create a flat ceiling surface similar to aluminum systems.

Mentioned acrylic ceilings in the bathroom are quite difficult to manufacture. The panels are installed in special frames made in the form window frames, and the simplest option is to fill the Armstrong suspended ceiling with acrylic polymer tiles and install hidden internal lighting.

Conclusion

Using modern finishing materials, you can install, as shown in the video, plastic ceilings in the bathroom of the most various forms and colors. From the simplest smooth ceilings to multi-level structures with acrylic inserts. But the most important thing for a not very large bathroom is that there is not “too much” ceiling and it fits into the overall style of the interior, which will delight its owner.

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How to make a plastic ceiling in the bathroom: 4 methods that will interest you

Hello. This time I propose to learn how to make a plastic ceiling in the bathroom. Why a plastic ceiling when it is easy to use plasterboard and other board materials? The reason is simple - plastic cladding hydrophobic, that is, it does not absorb water. In addition, surfaces lined with plastic will not rot and will not become favorable environment for mold activity.

Choosing finishing material

The ceiling in a plastic bathroom can be made using the following finishing materials:

• stretch vinyl ceiling;
• PVC lining;
• plastic ceiling tiles;
• application of Liquid Plastic paint.

What to choose from the listed options?

Method one: tension vinyl structures

Stretch ceilings have many advantages, but there is one significant drawback - they cannot be installed by yourself, but can only be ordered from specialized organizations. Therefore, in this article I will tell you in more detail about the instructions for installing lining and ceiling tiles.

Method two: installation of PVC lining

To install a plastic ceiling we will need the following materials:

• PVC lining (the wider the better);
• Special plastic ceiling plinth;
• Wooden block with a section of 50×25 mm;
• Fastening hardware - clasps (you can get by with shoe nails).

If you are working with lining for the first time, you may have problems counting the amount of materials. I’ll say right away that there are no problems, since the lining or Wall panels are sold not on a linear basis, but on square meter. That is, you need to calculate the area of ​​the ceiling and come to the seller with this figure.

Formula for calculating area: S = a (length of one wall) × b (length of another wall). Calculating the length of the plinth is even easier; just measure the perimeter of the room.

We buy the block with the calculation of installing the frame not along the length of the ceiling, but across it. Adjacent bars are installed at a distance of 0.5 meters from each other.

The main stages of lining installation can be found in the following diagram.

Instructions installation work consists of the following steps:

• We inspect the surface of the rough ceiling for the presence of peeling plaster;
• If there are such damages, we knock them down;
• We check the surface with a water level and determine the most protruding areas, from here we begin to fill the first block;

• Next, we fill the subsequent bars, if necessary, placing pieces of plywood under them in order to level the sheathing;
• Along the length of the wall across the sheathing beams we fill a plinth, also known as a starting strip;
• We also nail a plinth along the side walls;
• We insert the first panel into the initial plank with a tenon, and fasten the groove with clamps to the bars;

• Next, insert the next panel into the groove and fasten it with clamps, and so on until we cover the entire ceiling;
• In the middle of the room we drill a hole and bring a cable into it for subsequent connection of the lighting fixture;
• We install the lamp using self-tapping screws through the lining on wooden block lathing;
• The last panel is attached together with the baseboard on the wall where we did not initially install it.

If installing skirting boards seems unnecessarily complicated, install the lining without them. Upon completion of installation, it will be possible to glue polyurethane baguettes, which weigh little and are not afraid of moisture.

Method three: installation of ceiling tiles

If you need more affordable plastic ceilings for your bathroom, I recommend purchasing ceiling tiles. There are two types of tiles on sale - PVC and expanded polystyrene. Based on my experience, I advise you to buy products made from polystyrene foam, as they are easier to glue with your own hands and they look great.

Main stages of gluing ceiling tiles are listed in the following diagram.

The following materials and tools will be required:

• Expanded polystyrene boards;
• Glue “Bustilat”, PVA, “Liquid nails”, “Titan”, “Eko-Naset”, “Master”;
• Acrylic primer;
• Velor paint roller for applying primer.

We install the tiles as follows:

• We level the surface so that the relief does not exceed 1 mm per 2 m² of surface;
• We sweep the prepared dry surface from dust and cover it with a layer of primer;
• Once the primer has completely dried, we mark the ceiling with lines along which we will lay the tiles;
• Apply a dotted strip of glue along the perimeter to the back side of the tile;
• We apply the tiles according to the previously made markings, starting from the center of the ceiling and press them, moving them from side to side;

• The last row of tiles adjacent to the walls may have to be cut so that there is a gap of about 0.5 cm to the line where the walls and ceiling meet.
• After completely pasting the ceiling, we install the expanded polystyrene baseboard using the same glue that was used to glue the tiles.

Method four: using Liquid Plastic paint

If the previous methods of installing plastic ceilings seemed too complicated to you, there is an easier method that you can certainly handle.

The use of Liquid Plastic paint (enamel XC-1169) will create a moisture-proof surface on the ceiling durable coating. In addition, the “Liquid Plastic” coating will then be easy to clean; it is resistant to mold and rot, which is important in rooms with high humidity.

The most important stage in painting “Liquid plastic” is the preparation of the surface.

Despite the fact that “Liquid Plastic” is applied in a thick layer, all irregularities on the ceiling will be clearly visible. Therefore, before starting painting works checking the ceiling for levelness and density old plaster and, if necessary, we smooth out the defects with putty.

“Liquid Plastic” can be applied with a brush or velor roller. I would recommend a roller, as with it the layer turns out smoother and painting will take less time.

In addition to “Liquid plastic”, you will need an inorganic thinner such as white spirit. The paint is applied in two layers with a break for the previous layer to dry.

The table lists trade marks XC-1169 enamels and their characteristics

Which method to choose

So, I talked about those methods of making plastic ceilings that you can implement with your own hands. Which of the following methods is the best?

As I already said, tensile structures The bad thing is that you can’t install them yourself. Otherwise, such designs have virtually no disadvantages.

The price of 1 m² is from $10, which is not very much, considering the size of the bathroom. The entire ceiling will be completed turnkey in less than one working day. The surface of the coating can be glossy or matte, pure white or colored, without a pattern or with a pattern.

PVC lining is good because you can install it yourself and it is inexpensive. In the gap between the lining and the rough ceiling, you can hide various communications. Among the disadvantages plastic lining I will note the formation of condensation on the surface and the undignified appearance in comparison with tensile structures.

Tiles made of plastic or polystyrene foam are easy to install and inexpensive. But a ceiling decorated with such material looks undignified. In addition, due to the complex patterns, the tiles are not easy to clean; as a result, after a year the coating does not look very attractive.

“Liquid Plastic” paint allows you to get a thin, but durable coating. At correct application On a flat surface, the coating will look no worse than stretch vinyl ceilings. “Liquid plastic” is resistant to rotting and mold and is environmentally friendly safe material, which can be used even in residential areas.

Conclusion

Which of the listed methods to choose is up to you, one way or another I hope that you can make a plastic ceiling in the bathroom with your own hands. If you have any questions about the text, ask them in the comments or watch the video in this article.

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