The blind area is a special covering around the perimeter of the building, which performs a protective function, preventing the harmful effects of precipitation on the foundation of the building. It is strongly recommended not to neglect this element, especially if the foundation is not protected in any way. Now we will figure out how to make a blind area around the house with our own hands, what points need to be taken into account and we will not forget to emphasize the important components of this process.
As already noted, the blind area protects the foundation of the building. It is made inclined, due to which rain and melt water flows away from the walls and base. This prevents the harmful effects of moisture, and simply makes it impossible for water to accumulate near the walls.
The blind area also plays the role of a kind of stabilizer, strengthening the soil and preventing it from moving due to temperature differences and uneven subsidence. Correctly chosen laying depth significantly increases the strength of the base and also provides additional insulation. Thus, the depth of soil freezing near the house will be greater than without such an element.
If your house has a basement or cellar, a blind area will perfectly help protect it from the cold. This is especially true for houses in which a garage or gym is provided in the basement, that is, the room is not just for storing things, but is actively used.
And finally, the blind area performs a decorative function, especially if you decorate it with some elements in the future, which we will tell you about at the end of the article. Now let’s proceed to the actual construction of this element with our own hands.
Preparation
First of all, you need to decide on the type of blind area. In the vast majority of cases, they make ordinary concrete - it is much simpler and cheaper than other options. In addition, a well-prepared concrete solution will last for a considerable time and will save you from the need to redo anything, although regular maintenance and minor repairs will still be necessary.
We will consider other types of blind areas at the end of the article. The process of laying such options is not much different from concrete, but the cost of materials will be much higher.
So, before making a blind area around the house, you need to thoroughly clean the work area. The cut begs the question regarding dimensions: how wide should this element be? There is a clear rule here. Measure the overhang of your roof and add at least 20 cm to the figure. This will be the minimum width of your blind area. As a rule, most blind areas are made from 60 to 100 cm wide, so when preparing a site for work, take approximately these dimensions into account with a margin.
Mark the future blind area and drive pegs around the perimeter for guidance and pull the ropes. Carefully ensure that the width is uniform throughout the entire perimeter of the house, as this is the main factor in future visual beauty. Clear the soil of debris and large stones. By the way, it is better to carry out work in dry weather, preferably before the onset of cold weather. Optimally - at the end of summer.
In the perimeter marked for the blind area, we remove a layer of soil to a depth of 25-30 cm. We act very carefully, achieving uniform depth along the entire perimeter. After this, carefully compact the bottom. If, after removing the layer of soil, you find large roots of various plants, it is recommended to remove them. This will reduce the harmful effect on the blind area.
If necessary, you should treat the soil with special herbicides, especially if you see fairly deep roots in the area. Plants, over time, can deform the blind area, and the reason will not be immediately clear, and repairing the structure will be quite difficult. Therefore, carefully get rid of large roots, even if you have to dig several holes.
Let's move on to making the formwork. For this purpose, it is recommended to use boards with a thickness of about 20 mm. In increments of approximately 1.5 meters, we drive support posts into the ground along the edge of the dug trench and attach our formwork to them. Make sure that the boards lie evenly and do not create unevenness, since the aesthetics of the blind area will depend on this. After that, we move on to the “pillows” tab.
If you want to make a blind area with your own hands with a high degree of insulation from moisture, it is recommended to lay a layer of clay directly on the ground. This layer will act as additional protection. Next, pour a layer of sand about 10 cm thick onto the clay and compact it tightly. To create more density, you can wet this sand a little, but don't overdo it with water.
Next, we lay a layer of crushed stone on top of the sand layer. This layer should be approximately 8-10 cm thick and consist of fine rock (preferably). As for reinforcing the base, you don’t have to do it, although experts recommend not skipping this stage for greater strength of the blind area. Reinforcement can be done using reinforcement with a cross-section of 6-10 mm, laying it lengthwise or crosswise in increments of 10 cm. Please note that the concrete pouring area must be evenly covered with reinforcement.
It is also important to remember about such a detail as the expansion seam. It represents a small indentation necessary to prevent deformation of the base due to thermal expansion of the blind area itself and shrinkage of the soil.
It is recommended to make an expansion joint approximately 150 mm wide. You can fill this seam with a mixture of sand and crushed stone, but it is better to use special materials, such as a rope made of foamed polyethylene. Please note that the rope should be slightly thicker than the gap itself to create density. Be sure to allow the rope to protrude above the surface of the seam by approximately half its depth. The seam must be laid very tightly. As an alternative to such a harness, you can use sealant, but if you do not have the opportunity to purchase such materials, feel free to use sand and crushed stone.
Preparation of cement mortar and pouring
The preparation of cement mortar is carried out using a technology that depends on the brand of cement. You should use cement of a grade no lower than M200. Be sure to prepare a concrete mixer for this purpose, since manual mixing will not allow you to achieve the required consistency.
Let's pay attention to the correct recipe for preparing the solution. Here it is necessary to accurately maintain the proportions, since measurements “by eye” can later result in the appearance of cracks and the need to redo the work.
So, per 1 cubic meter of finished solution we need to maintain the following proportions:
- Cement - 280 kg;
- Construction sand - 840 kg;
- Crushed stone - 1400 kg;
- Clean water - 190 l.
We calculate the proportions based on cement grade M400 or M500, and the solution will turn out to be quite dry, but that’s what we need. The whole point is that the blind area must have a given slope, and a more liquid version will not hold its shape and will simply spread.
It is important to know the rules of kneading. A portion of cement is loaded into a concrete mixer and mixed for about 20 minutes. This is necessary to create a uniform consistency of the dry product. After this, sand is introduced in 3-4 doses, thoroughly mixing each additive. Crushed stone is introduced in the same way. Water must be supplied in a gentle stream, pouring in the entire portion in about 4-5 turns. Next, the mixture is stirred for another 2-3 minutes.
To make a blind area of good quality, it is necessary to provide additional expansion joints, similar to those described above. Every 1.5-2 meters along the perimeter of the blind area we install wooden slats, perpendicular to the base of the house. The slats are installed on the edge. Do not forget that the blind area must be inclined, so be sure to allow for a difference in height of about 2-3 cm for every meter. In other words, between the beginning of a blind area 2 meters wide and its end there should be a difference in height of about 5-6 cm. A flatter slope will be insufficient for water drainage, and a steeper one will cause water to flow down very quickly, which can cause constant destruction of the soil about edges of the structure.
The slats can be treated with a special mastic to increase their strength and protect them from rotting, and then proceed to the direct pouring of the mixture. When pouring, do not forget to compact the concrete - this can be done with a handy tool, for example, a shovel or hoe. You should “pierce” the concrete layer and compact it in a back-and-forth motion. If you have a special electric vibrator for these purposes, the work will go faster.
To smooth out the concrete layer we use the following technology. We take a long and even lath and, holding it perpendicular to the installed expansion joints, smooth the surface of the poured mixture. The wooden slats that we installed as expansion joints will act as beacons during smoothing, so you can easily achieve a flat surface.
In the same way, we pour concrete along the entire perimeter of the future blind area. It is advisable to carry out this stage of work in one approach, that is, not to postpone filling of certain parts until later. You should pour the entire perimeter at once, especially trying to prevent the concrete from setting tightly in places adjacent to the pour to prevent cracks from appearing in the future. This way you should get a monolithic blind area with a flat surface. Be sure to control even the smallest details of the process.
Drying
So, the blind area with your own hands is almost ready. Now you need to wait until the concrete hardens completely. The hardening time of the blind area depends on the thickness of the solution layer. In our case, this is about 10 cm. Complete hardening will take about 5 days, and depending on the weather, it is necessary to monitor the process. In hot weather, you can cover the blind area with a cloth and periodically wet it. A little rain will not interfere with the process, but excess moisture is also not needed, so stock up on plastic covering. After a week, you can start finishing work (if you want), or leave the blind area as it turned out.
By the way, about the finishing. Many people try to decorate the blind area with a border. In fact, a good design does not need this detail, but for aesthetic reasons you can still provide a small border. The blind area is also often covered with a variety of decorative tiles. This is not difficult to do.
A few words about care and repair
Now you know how to make a blind area at home with your own hands, but you also need to know how to care for or repair it. If the blind area is laid correctly, there will be no problems for quite a long time, but after a few years, cracks may still appear, especially if your house is located in a rather difficult climate zone with frequent precipitation and temperature changes.
So, to eliminate small cracks, you can use liquid cement mortar in proportions of 1:1 or 1:2. Just carefully pour the solution into the cracks and work with a putty knife to smooth the surface. Carefully inspect the entire perimeter and eliminate any cracks found.
For large cracks, it is necessary to prepare a special solution consisting of bitumen, fine slag and asbestos in proportions 7:1:1.5. Cracks must be cut down to the very base and thoroughly cleaned. After this, pour the solution and cover it with sand on top. After drying, the surface can be leveled.
It is important to remember that repairs should be carried out in cool weather, or at least in the morning. The thing is that under the influence of heat, concrete expands and cracks decrease, so in the heat you will not be able to do the job efficiently.
Other types of blind areas
We settled on the concrete option, but if you want to make a blind area for your home with your own hands from other materials, then you can safely use such popular options as stone, paving stones or paving slabs. It is easier to work with this material, although the work will be significantly more expensive than with the concrete option.
Laying such a blind area means that the preparatory procedures and the creation of the “cushion” are no different from the concrete version. After completing this work, the selected material is laid on top of the created “cushion”, and then carefully compacted. The gaps are filled with sand.
Do-it-yourself blind areas with stones, tiles or paving stones are quite durable and resistant to atmospheric influences, but their disadvantage can be considered the relative high cost of materials. It is worth noting that care for this option should be more frequent than for concrete, especially after serious temperature fluctuations or significant precipitation.
From a decorative point of view, this option, of course, looks more beautiful than a conventional concrete blind area. But you can also provide finishing for the one we talked about in the article. In this case, you will spend less material and the work will cost less.
What type of blind area to choose is up to you. We tried to talk about the main elements of the procedure and focus on important nuances. With such knowledge, you can easily cope with the job and make your home and yard not only protected, but also beautiful.
It is difficult to overestimate the importance of the protective function of the blind area of a building. It encircles the boundaries of the building and meekly protects the underground part of the foundation from the destructive external influence of water.
As a rule, the blind area is performed at the final stage of construction of the facility. It is recommended to set the width of the structure in accordance with the requirements of building codes and regulations. The customer personally has the exclusive right to choose the material for the construction of the blind area.
In fact, you can do this simple and extremely important foundation protection design yourself. Sites specialized in construction topics offer a wide range of photo blind areas that you can do on your own.
Purpose of the blind area in the building
Some respected men do not fully understand the importance of this design. They consider the blind area purely as a pectoral and decorative element of the building facade, and ignore compliance with basic building codes.
The soil, in the thickness of which lies the supporting structure of the entire building, is a rather capricious and mobile substance. A soil layer saturated with water increases in volume and can behave unpredictably: shifts in soil layers, swelling, or vice versa, subsidence of the soil are possible.
Having a well-designed blind area around the house with your own hands will significantly reduce the negative impact of dynamic lateral soil loads. It should be noted the important functions that are assigned to the design of the blind area of the building:
- protects the soil from waterlogging and negative impacts on the foundation structure;
- drains wastewater and storm water from the structural elements of the foundation and walls of the building;
- Thanks to the blind area, the house construction has a complete look. The blind area stylishly emphasizes the outline of the building;
- a well-executed design of the blind area is an additional contour for insulating the foundation or basement;
- The blind area is a pedestrian path for moving personnel around the site.
It should be noted that the blind area is a fairly aesthetic and functional element of any house construction.
Design feature of the blind area
Typically, the design of the blind area is made of two layers. The first bedding layer can be made of crushed clay, crushed stone, gravel, or sand. It is made horizontal, up to 300 mm thick. If you are new to the construction business, it is advisable to carefully watch the video of making a blind area with your own hands, which are available in large quantities on specialized websites.
Clay castle serves as an excellent waterproofing natural material. The width of the blind area should exceed the maximum protruding roof structure by 250 mm.
A water-repellent material is usually used as a finishing covering material for the top layer of the blind area. It can be asphalt concrete, natural stone, monolithic concrete.
The top layer is made with a slope from the building, five centimeters per one meter of the width of the blind area. The design of the blind area should not have any connection with the foundation of the building.
A drainage gutter is installed along the perimeter of the blind area to drain storm water. The slope of the gutter should be approximately 1-3 degrees towards the storm water collector.
Preparatory work
Before starting work on concreting the blind area with your own hands, you should perform a number of preparatory measures. First you need to determine the width of the structure. Building codes and regulations convincingly say that the minimum width of the blind area should be at least 600 mm.
You should have a ready-made solution regarding the material of the bottom layer of the structure. The material of the top layer should harmoniously fit into the overall architectural style of the area adjacent to the building.
Now it is necessary to calculate the required materials for the top and bottom layers. Prepare and store the necessary tools and equipment at the workplace.
Work order
Work on the installation of a blind area should be carried out in the warm season. As an example, let's look at step-by-step instructions for making a blind area around a building with your own hands:
Performing markings. Measure the calculated distance from the wall of the building. Hammer wooden pegs and stretch the rope over them.
Excavation. The construction of an earthen trough for the future blind area is made with a depth of about 250 mm.
Plant processing. To do this, it is necessary to treat the visible part of the roots of plants, shrubs, and trees with a herbicide solution.
Formwork assembly. Install a 25 mm thick unedged board along the outer edge of the blind area. Secure firmly with a peg and prop.
The device of the bottom layer. A five-centimeter layer of clay is laid, then sand, spilled with water and compacted. Now lay a layer of crushed stone, fraction 15-20, and compact it thoroughly again.
Laying of reinforcement. Place reinforcing mesh on the prepared cushion and securely fasten them together.
Installation of expansion joints at the junction of the building and the blind area. Make the joints 15 mm wide and fill them with a mixture of sand and fine gravel.
Concrete works. Fill the formwork space with a liquid concrete mixture. Every 2500 mm, make expansion joints from wooden slats. Pre-treat the slats with an antiseptic.
Using the rule, level the concrete mixture evenly and give it the required slope. Cover the concrete surface with a wet cloth and leave for 28 days to achieve design strength.
Decorative design. Now you can refine the concrete surface with natural stone or tiles.
You did it! In fact, there is nothing complicated. If you follow the recommendations of experts, then making the blind area yourself correctly will not be difficult. Costs include only the cost of materials.
The material for the decorative covering of the top layer of the blind area should be selected taking into account the architectural style and existing paths in the yard. This will create an atmosphere of unity and harmony in accordance with the chosen style of the garden area.
Liquid glass can be used as an additional additive to the solution. This will increase the frost resistance coefficient.
In hot weather, after performing concrete work, it is recommended to periodically wet the surface of the blind area with water. This helps maintain normal conditions for concrete to gain strength.
If you have blessed the paving stones with the finishing coating of the blind area, be sure to waterproof the structure first.
May success assist you in your construction business.
Photo of the blind area with your own hands
During construction, it is very important to properly make the blind area around the house. It allows you to reduce the amount of splashes of dirt during rain, which reduces contamination of the facade. However, poor design can lead to waterlogged foundation walls. There are several opinions among specialist builders about how to make a blind area around a house correctly with your own hands.
Some believe that making a moisture-proof blind area, for example from concrete, will effectively drain rainwater from the wall. Others argue that this element is built purely for aesthetic reasons, serving as narrow “sidewalks” along the façade.
The third popular opinion is that the main function of the blind area is to keep the house clean, as it helps to avoid contamination during rain.
So, how to make a simple blind area around a house from stone, tiles and other materials, what to pay attention to, how to prepare the base and what materials to choose - this will be discussed in the article.
Blind area around the house - how to do it correctly and what is it for?
First of all, it is worth understanding how rainwater affects the external walls of a building. When it rains, water soaks into the ground (through the lawn or permeable strip around the house made of crushed stone, tiles or other materials). Some of the water will be absorbed to the groundwater level. However, some of it will rise up through the soil capillaries and evaporate from the surface, which is sometimes called “self-draining” of the soil. If a waterproof blind area is made, for example, from concrete, a constantly wet zone of soil may appear directly under the house, in contact with the foundation walls. In practice, this will have an adverse effect on the foundation walls; moisture can penetrate into the building and contribute to the development of fungus, especially if the house has a basement.
How to properly make a blind area around the house - video
In recent years, many experts have recommended insulating foundations using a waterproofing membrane film. Diffusion film membranes allow the walls to “breathe” and better drain water from the foundations (through a system of channels in their structure). This is only true if there is a place for the water to pass through to evaporate. If we place a membrane film under a waterproof blind area, it will not do its job.
In this case, the blind area must be made permeable, for example, from decorative stone or tiles laid on sand, gravel or gravel mixture (concrete or cement-sand bedding cannot be used). The border of the blind area must also be made, for example, a concrete rim or a plastic rim.
Functions of the blind area
According to most experts, the blind area of a house performs two main functions:
- First of all, it allows you to leave the facade clean, since rainwater splashes, bouncing off tiles or stones, which leads to mud splashing the walls.
- The second function is to improve the aesthetics of the building (of course, this is a matter of taste for each of us).
This is not the only possible application. This building element can also serve as an auxiliary path around the house, as well as a support for stairs or scaffolding for façade maintenance or window cleaning. Every year it becomes more and more important, since mechanical ventilation is becoming widespread, in which non-opening windows are often installed in the house. In this case, the only access to them is the outer wall of the building.
How to choose the correct blind area width?
In order for the blind area to perform these functions, it cannot be too narrow. However, the most commonly used width is 40-60 cm, it will be enough to perform the main task, but it will not work in any of the additional functions listed above. A width of 80 - 90 cm will make the blind area relatively comfortable. For the passage of two people, this width increases to at least 120, but better to 150 cm. As for the “path around the house” function, in practice it does not have much practical use, since it is much more convenient to move along paths built directly in the garden than on the narrow sidewalks at the front.
It should be borne in mind that paths leading to the entrance to the building located too close to the wall will lead to much faster contamination of the facade. For the same reason, you should not connect the blind area to the group of the main communication line. If there is enough space, it is better to separate it with a narrow strip of greenery from the sidewalk. This will greatly improve ease of use and help maintain cleanliness.
Finally, the width of the blind area is selected to match the module of the selected tile or stone format. For example, we decided to use 18.2 x 18.2 cm tiles - then there is no point in creating a 70 cm wide strip, because this means cutting out almost all elements and significantly increasing labor and waste costs. Instead, it is better to choose 55 cm (18.2 × 3), 73 cm (18.2 × 4) or 91 cm (18.2 × 5). This will reduce the amount of waste to almost zero (tile elements will be laid whole or cut in half). For the same reason, when choosing trapezoidal tiles or other uneven-sided shapes, it is better to place them along the facade.
How to make a blind area around the house with tiles or stones?
We already know how to choose the shape of the blind area and what functions should correspond to it. Therefore, the only question is how to properly make a blind area? This is not particularly difficult, since it is structurally no different from other sidewalks and paths made of stone or paving slabs.
The best choice is a blind area made of paving slabs or stone; it can be made of decorative stone, pebbles or the more popular paving slabs. The main function of this design is to protect the facade from dirt and slush, as well as protect the foundation from moisture.
The most popular blind areas are natural stone, gravel, and paving slabs.
Work begins with a trench (it is important to remove all humus, which is quite simple to do), then a foundation, a leveling pad and a surface of tiles or stone are made. However, there are some additional rules.
First of all, you need to make sure that the level of the planned strip will be below the top edge of the vertical foundation insulation. Otherwise, the walls of the building may become damp. To protect against snow, it is recommended to perform vertical insulation at least 30 cm above the level of the blind area.
The second important point is the slope. It must provide drainage from the building. For normal conditions the slope should be 2%. This means a 2 cm height difference for a strip width of 1 m. It is also important that the top edge of the curb does not protrude above the plane of the tile. It should be flush with its bottom edge.
- External wall of the building.
- Border of the blind area.
- Tile, stone.
- Priming.
- Vertical building insulation.
- Sand bedding.
- Bedding with a slope.
- Foundation of the building.
This design is very simple to implement and does not require precise compliance with height differences. This is due to the fact that water penetrates very quickly through the stone layer into the soil. What is the best way to make a blind area around a house from decorative stone? The top layer can be made using decorative stones or coarse gravel. The most aesthetic solution is white stone, but at the same time it can quickly become dirty.
It is recommended that the top layer of stone has a thickness of about 15 cm. The stones should be scattered on an even layer of sand about 10-15 cm thick. This solution will ensure that the flow of rainwater quickly penetrates into the ground, as well as the rapid drying of the substrate.
The structure should be surrounded by a concrete or granite border. Lack of a border will quickly lead to the rocks "spreading" into the garden. However, any stones that fall on the lawn can damage the lawn mower.
For a gravel and stone strip, install a curb so that it protrudes about 2 cm above the level of the stones. This will protect the blind area from stones or gravel falling onto the grass. At the same time, you need to make sure that the lawn behind it is also located about 2 cm lower, which will prevent dirt from being deposited on the layer of stones.
To keep the side stable and ensure a constant width of the blind area for many years, it is worth strengthening it from the outside with concrete, or building a support. In addition, this design will allow you to later work in the garden directly next to the house (for example, digging a trench for drainage or laying cables, etc.) without damaging it.
Paving slabs are much easier to maintain than stone structures. In the case of stones, after a few years it is often necessary to replace their top layer (about 5 cm) with new, clean stones in the desired color (usually white stones). At the same time, we must not forget that it is undesirable to use concrete pouring or a cement/sand mixture, as this will interfere with the free movement and evaporation of water.
You can use paving slabs or granite 4-6 cm thick to pave the house. There is no need to use road slabs (8 cm thick), since there is no traffic or other extreme impact.
Geotextiles can be laid under paving slabs and sand. The cost of creating such a structure depends mainly on the material of its top layer.
In terms of functionality, both solutions are similar. Therefore, it is better to make the choice mainly by considering the decision from the point of view of financial issues, since the cost of sand and sand-gravel mixture in each region is different, as is the availability of any of these materials on the construction market.
In the case of paving slabs, it is important to maintain the proper height difference between the blind area and the lawn. It is recommended that this difference be 1-2% or even 2-4%, which means with a strip width of 0.5 m, the difference in levels will be 1-2 cm. You cannot tilt the angle of the height difference to the wall of the building so that the water does not stand along walls and foundations (water penetrates into the cracks between the tiles much more slowly than through a stone path).
When laying tiles, it is very important to thoroughly compact the layer of sand bedding, since if the sand is not compacted, the tiles will settle unevenly. If the blind area is made of decorative stone, careful compaction of the sand is not necessary (only slight compaction of the surface is required).
The tile must be limited by a side. In the case of a concrete border, it is recommended that it be slightly lower than the tiles (0.5-1 cm), which will improve the drainage of rainwater onto the lawn.
Border for paving slabs - concrete, granite or plastic?
In the case of a decorative blind area made of stone, the best solution would be a concrete sidewalk curb 6 or 4 cm thick. A granite option is also available. In turn, in the case of paving slabs, you can use both concrete and plastic curbs for paving slabs.
Laying geotextiles in the blind area of a house
Placing geotextiles (or so-called permeable agrofiber) under a layer of sand will limit the growth of weeds and other vegetation. However, it is important that the fabric is permeable in both directions (top and bottom). Sealed insulating films must not be placed in this location.
Geotextiles can be laid out along the entire length of the blind area of the house, with an overlap of subsequent strips of about 30-50 cm. This material will not completely limit the growth of vegetation, but will significantly reduce the scale of this phenomenon. In practice, this will make it easier to maintain a good appearance of the structure.
To improve the appearance, you can place lighting fixtures between the elements of paving slabs or stones, diversify the design with flower beds and other garden decor.
When it comes to aesthetic issues, color is of paramount importance. It should be remembered that the blind area around the house is not the most important element of the whole, and therefore should not dominate the environment. It should be harmonized with the facade, but it should merge with it, since this can greatly spoil the proportions of the building. If we do not have much experience in choosing colors and we are afraid of experiments, a slightly darker color than the facade of the house will be “safer”. It is also good if it is made of a material and color that matches the garden paths around the house.
Building a house is a complex process. It consists of several main stages, most often obvious and necessary. But there are a few things that can be overlooked that, if done, will greatly improve the aesthetics and comfort of the building. These include the blind area around the house. It will, first of all, protect the lower part of the facade from dirt, and also provide an aesthetic separation of the house from the garden. However, in order for the architecture of the building to be complemented and not spoiled, it is important to carefully consider the project and choose the appropriate material.
We will send the material to you by e-mail
After completing the construction of the house, it is mandatory to install a blind area. It will protect the foundation from soaking and cracking, and will also significantly extend the life of the building. The design is quite simple and therefore the blind area can be done with your own hands - step-by-step instructions and recommendations will help you go through all stages of installation without errors.
Appearance of the blind area
The structure of the blind area around the house is quite simple and consists of two main elements: a substrate and a covering. The main role of the substrate is to create a smooth and durable base for laying the protective coating. Typically, the substrate is two layers of clay or sand and crushed stone. The good thing about using clay is that it can perform a waterproofing function and not allow moisture to pass through, but to do this it will need to be laid well and the layer must be uniform. Sand is easier to use, as it can easily smooth out any unevenness in the soil surface.
Any suitable materials that have the following properties can be used as a coating:
- Have sufficient strength to withstand expected mechanical loads.
- They have high-quality waterproofing properties.
- Resistant to sudden temperature changes.
- Thanks to the smooth surface, they are able to efficiently remove moisture from the foundation.
Therefore, concrete, asphalt, stone or tile coverings are mainly used for blind areas.
Related article:
Photo of the blind area around the house: main types of structures
When designing photos, blind areas around houses will greatly simplify their selection. There are these types of structures:
- Tough. They are structures based on hard coatings that, under load, retain their shape without deformation. Usually made of concrete or asphalt. Their service life is usually compared with the duration of operation of the building. In terms of installation cost, rigid structures will be more expensive than others, as they require mandatory insulation and waterproofing. Requires medium or high density soil for installation.
- Soft. They are distinguished by simple installation technology and minimal operating requirements. In fact, it consists of several layers of bulk materials. Requires minimal cost and physical effort to install. The service life is on average 5-7 years. They can be laid on any type of soil, including loose ones. They are used mainly for temporary purposes, since their appearance is not entirely aesthetic and is unlikely to fit into the design of the building facade.
- Semi-rigid. They represent a compromise between hard and soft structures in terms of financial and physical costs. The outer layer is usually laid with tiles, stone or reinforced concrete slabs. The service life can be up to several decades. They have excellent maintainability, since part of the structure can be replaced or rearranged without any problems. However, they are limited for use in areas with high groundwater, on soils with large freezing depths and on heaving soils. The cost of installation work will be cheaper than hard work, but the highest quality aesthetic appearance will be achieved.
Determining the parameters of the blind area
In order to understand how to properly make blind areas around houses, you need to correctly select its technical parameters. One of them is width. It is determined by the current building codes and regulations, which state that it must be 20 cm longer than the most protruding part of the roof slope. Usually this size is measured from the gutters. The width of the blind area around the house is determined based on the selected type of material, the density of the soil on the site and the magnitude of the expected variable and static loads. In most cases, the width of the structure for private houses is made at least 1 m.
Another parameter is the degree to which the structure is buried in the ground. It is mainly influenced by the level of soil freezing. In regions where there is a significant decrease in air temperature, the structure is significantly affected by soil properties such as heaving, which can damage it literally within a year without the possibility of recovery. Therefore, the filling level must provide sufficient strength so that it effectively resists heaving and does not deform. The minimum depth is at least 10 cm, including a layer of sand and crushed stone cushion. If constant loads are expected, it is recommended to increase the thickness to 15-20 cm.
Helpful information! Where the porch adjoins the house there is no particular need to lay a blind area, since the main foundation in this case will be protected. However, if a monolithic or brick porch is built, then it is recommended to protect it too, since the weight per unit area is quite large and the likelihood of subsidence is high.
For high-quality sediment removal, the surface must have a certain slope. The magnitude of the angle to the horizontal, on the one hand, is influenced by the amount of precipitation in a particular region, and on the other hand, by the ease of use of the structure as a pedestrian path or for other purposes. A value of 2-3° is considered optimal.
In order to prevent flooding of the structure, it is recommended to make it 5 cm higher from the ground surface. If there are trees or bushes near the house, you will need to uproot them to a distance of approximately 1.5 m from the house.
Attention! You can protect the structure from destruction by the roots of trees or any plants by installing a border.
Preparatory work
Preparation for installation is carried out in several stages:
- Marking the territory.
- Carrying out earthworks.
- Laying the underlying layer.
We mark out the area for installation of the blind area
Using pegs around the perimeter of the house it is necessary to mark. To do this, use a tape measure to measure a distance of 1 m from the walls and drive wooden pegs into the corners to a depth of 0.5 m so that it is possible to carry out excavation work without moving them from their place. We pull a rope on them.
Helpful information! If the building has a large area, it is recommended to install additional pegs along the walls every 2.5-3 m.
Excavation stage
Using a shovel, you need to dig a trench according to the markings. The depth is determined by the type of structure chosen, climatic conditions and soil composition. The layer should be removed evenly with a slope of 2-3° from the building. This is quite easy to do by setting the digging depth along the building and along the marking line.
Since the main foundation and the structure of the blind area will have different coefficients of thermal expansion, it is recommended to create a thermal gap between them of 1-2 mm. To do this, after stopping digging, you need to lay a damping layer based on polyurethane tape along the wall.
The bottom of the trench should be carefully compacted with a special tool, which is a steel rod with a flat sheet welded on the lower end. If such a device is not at hand, then you can use a regular log.
Laying a pillow under the blind area
It is necessary to lay waterproofing at the bottom of the prepared trench and fill it with a layer of sand 10-20 cm thick, depending on the type of structure and the depth of the trench, with careful compaction and leveling. For ease of work, it is recommended to spill the layer generously with water in order to compact it as much as possible. However, before laying the outer layer, you will need to wait until the pillow dries.
Important! If construction is carried out in an area with high groundwater, a drainage system will need to be installed. It is a pipe with holes in the upper part, which is located around the perimeter of the building and is connected to the storm sewer system.
It is necessary to pour gravel with a fraction size of up to 5 cm on top of the sand, and level the top layer with crushed stone with a grain size of up to 5 mm. This will save building material on the outer layer due to the absence of the need to fill the pores formed.
Helpful information! Crushed stone can be replaced by other types of stone or even broken bricks. The most important thing is to use a homogeneous material so that areas with different strength characteristics are not created.
How to properly make a blind area around the house?
The installation process depends on the type of structure and the selected material. For example, when installing a soft structure, no additional work will be required, but when installing a hard structure, you will need to lay several waterproofing layers. How to carry out installation correctly will be described in the following subsections.
Installation of a rigid blind area
It is recommended to install a rigid structure on a heat- and waterproofing layer, which will significantly extend the life of the structure. For these purposes, it is recommended to use thermal insulation materials that are highly resistant to moisture and have increased strength under significant mechanical loads. An example would be expanded polystyrene or foam boards.
Attention! Before laying, it is necessary to install the formwork, for which it is recommended to use boards lined with a waterproofing film on the inside. This solution will prevent the absorption of moisture from the subsequently poured concrete solution and it will be able to gain design strength. Otherwise, the dehydrated parts will become brittle and the service life will be significantly reduced.
To understand the technology of pouring a blind area around a concrete house, how to make formwork and what sequence of actions to follow, you need to read the step-by-step instructions. It looks like this:
- We install the first slab from the corner of the building along the wall, checking the correct position using a building level.
- We fix the insulation onto a suitable type of fastening, pressing it tightly against the wall.
- We install the next one butt to the first plate with a minimum gap.
- We secure the slab and carefully seal the joint with construction foam.
- Similarly, we lay the entire perimeter of the walls with heat-insulating material.
Attention! If the blind area is installed in the northern regions, then it is recommended to lay two layers of insulation with ligation of the joints of the two layers. This will avoid the formation of cold bridges.
Before pouring concrete into the formwork, it is necessary to lay the reinforcing mesh. For these purposes, ready-made meshes with a rod diameter of 8-10 mm and a cell size of 10-15 cm are used. It is important to lay them in such a way that the steel rods are in the concrete layer. To do this, you need to use special plastic supports.
It is recommended to fill the structure with concrete mortar grade M400 or higher, and at one time, so that the structure acquires maximum strength. Therefore, you need to calculate the approximate volume in advance and order the solution in the required quantity at the cement plant.
When pouring, it is important to create a uniform layer, for which you carefully smooth the concrete over the surface using a shovel or mop. Additionally, the solution must be stirred to remove air bubbles from the layer. After driving the layer to the level of the edges of the formwork, it is necessary to level the surface as a rule. The side parts of the formwork will serve as guides.
At the final stage, the surface of the blind area must be sprinkled with a thin layer of cement. To ensure ideal conditions for concrete hardening, you will need to cover the entire top part with a layer of polyethylene. Every day it is necessary to moisten the surface with water. The curing time is 28 days depending on the temperature and humidity of the environment.
Installation of a soft blind area
The soft blind area around the houses is laid on a waterproofing layer laid on top of a sand cushion. It is recommended to use rubemast as an insulating material, which has an increased service life. Laying is done overlapping at a distance of 10-15 cm not only along the main surface, but also on the walls of the main building. The connecting seams are sealed with bitumen under the heat of the burner.
On top of the waterproofing it is necessary to pour a 10 cm layer of a dry mixture of sand and crushed stone in equal proportions. Then the surface should be thoroughly compacted and leveled. In this case, it is imperative to maintain the angle of inclination. Another layer of crushed stone with a grain size of no more than 5 mm is laid on top of the embankment and also compacted.
DIY semi-rigid blind area: step-by-step instructions
Is it possible to create a semi-rigid structure on your own in the absence of suitable experience? The task is completely solvable and you can create a reliable blind area with your own hands - step-by-step instructions will allow you to go through all the stages without errors. It is installed directly on a prepared sand-crushed stone cushion, on top of which an additional layer of sand 8-10 cm thick is poured. For paving
How to repair a blind area?
The blind area around the house, if you do not know the nuances of laying technology, how to properly pour concrete or lay tiles, will certainly contain defects that will emerge sooner or later and require repair work. Restoration is carried out depending on the degree of damage:
- If there are cracks no larger than 1 mm, repairs are not required, since they are not critical and will in no way worsen the performance characteristics of the structure.
- If the crack size is up to 3 mm, then it is recommended to use water-cement mortar in equal proportions. After the solution dries, a durable layer will be created that will provide maximum protection to the building foundation.
- For cracks up to 3 cm, it will be necessary to fill them with concrete mortar, having previously cleaned them of dirt and treated them with a deep penetration primer. It is also possible to use waterproof putties or sealants.
- Cracks larger than 3 cm - it is necessary to study the strength of the structure and evaluate its maintainability. It may be necessary to remove part of the top layer and level the pillow. After making sure that the structure has sufficient load-bearing capacity, concrete should be poured.
- The crumbling of the blind area is eliminated by applying a water-cement mixture to the surface in order to strengthen it.
Conclusion
It has been shown that a do-it-yourself blind area can last a long time if step-by-step instructions are used and construction technologies are followed. The main installation methods for all types of blind areas are given. Some methods for repairing damage to the external surface of a structure are indicated.
Save time: selected articles delivered to your inbox every week
No building can do without a reliable foundation to support its weight and ensure the integrity of the entire structure, but it also needs additional protection. If necessary, each person can make a concrete blind area around the house with their own hands, without using the services of professional builders. This process is not very complicated, but it requires careful fulfillment of a number of requirements.
Requirements for the blind area, arrangement rules
This design serves as additional protection for the foundation of the building, preventing the destructive influence of groundwater and the environment. In addition to protection, it also performs an aesthetic function - a building with a blind area acquires a complete appearance. Before concreting a blind area with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with a number of requirements:
To successfully create a blind area, you should draw up a drawing. You can create it yourself, based on standard projects, or contact specialists. If necessary, it can be limited using. As a decorative element, it also increases the integrity of the structure and protects against the penetration of tree or shrub roots.
Borders are mandatory if you create a blind area around the house from screenings or crushed stone, and if poplar, plane tree, raspberries and blackberries grow nearby.
Materials for creating a concrete blind area around the house with your own hands
Before you start work, you need to prepare all the necessary materials and a diagram. The foundation should be strengthened sequentially, but the entire process should take a minimum of time. In most cases, when drawing up a project, you can use standard concrete blind area units, making adjustments to the design in accordance with the characteristics of your region. You will need the following materials:
- Concrete. The resulting mixture must correspond to class characteristics from B3.5 to B8. When creating it, the best cement will be grade M 400.
- Sand. You can use river or quarry sand as a pillow. The material used when mixing the mixture must be soft; the presence of large impurities is not allowed.
- Crushed stone or gravel. The fraction of crushed stone for the blind area of a house is 10-20. Used as a filler for concrete mix, or as a base material.
- Clay or geotextile. This material is used when arranging a concrete blind area with your own hands for additional protection from moisture, which is important for regions with high humidity.
It is determined by the brand of cement used and its specific gravity as a percentage of the elements of the solution. A good solution would be M400 Portland cement. The cement used must be fresh. If the powder forms lumps when squeezed in your hand, it will soon become unusable. The grade of cement selected depends on the planned thickness of the concrete blind area. Recommended proportions for mixing 1 m 3 solution:
- water – 190 l;
- filler (screenings or crushed stone) – 0.8 m3;
- sand – 0.5 m 3
- plasticizers (liquid glass and the like) – 2.4 l;
- cement – 320 kg.
When calculating the size of the blind area around the house, you should prepare the required amount of building materials in advance. It is also important to follow the order in which the materials are presented, which is necessary to ensure the required consistency. Compliance with technology will allow you to achieve the required result and create a reliable design. If all the requirements are met, you can effectively build a concrete blind area around the house with your own hands.
The amount of water supplied is of great importance. Excess will reduce the strength of the resulting concrete. Not enough water will prevent it from hardening properly.
How to make a blind area for a foundation with your own hands - step-by-step instructions
The required amount of cement is poured into a concrete mixer or other mixing container, and then it is filled with water. When mixed, a “cement laitance” is formed into which other components are added. Next, sand is added in small portions, while the mixture must be constantly stirred. Next, filler is poured (crushed stone or screenings). If you find out in advance which crushed stone is best for the blind area and select the material of the correct fraction, mixing will not be difficult.
To ensure more efficient mixing, wait 5 minutes after adding each ingredient.
Once the materials are prepared, you can begin to work. The installation of a blind area around the house includes the following steps:
Also, before pouring, an expansion joint is installed between the blind area and the plinth using boards or sheets of plywood - this measure will protect the concrete from destruction when the temperature changes.
Installation of a blind area made of crushed stone
A more economical option would be to use crushed stone as the main filling material. Its arrangement is subject to the same requirements as for a concrete blind area, however, reinforcement and the creation of an expansion joint are not required. An additional layer of waterproofing (geotextile) is installed between the crushed stone and the sand “cushion”. This will prevent mixing of crushed stone and sand, and will not allow plants to grow from seeds that may have remained in the “cushion”.
You can make a blind area from crushed stone with your own hands without much effort. Large grade material can be used to fill the lower part of the trench. On top, to give a decorative effect, fine crushed stone is used. Such a blind area also successfully protects the foundation from the destructive effects of groundwater and the environment. With the right approach, you can give it a neat and attractive appearance.
Concrete blind area from A to Z with your own hands - video