Correct installation of the door frame of an interior door. How to properly assemble a door frame: video and main steps How to mark an interior door frame

Door frame consists of two side vertical elements and one upper horizontal element connecting the first two. Less commonly, the lower horizontal element is also used as a threshold, but this is rather an exception to the generally accepted rules.

How to properly file the ends of a door frame

One of the rules of “good form” is filing box joints and platbands at an angle of 45 degrees. The highest quality cuts are made using a miter saw. If you do not have the opportunity to use this tool, you can use a miter box and a special hacksaw for an ultra-clean cut with a “pass” or “tenon”. I highly recommend that you first practice on ordinary bars and “get your hands on it.”

First they file down side elements of the box. Do not immediately cut the racks to length. I'll explain why. If you cut the top part incorrectly at an angle of 45 degrees, you will no longer have the opportunity to correct the mistake by cutting it again, because the post has already been shortened, and there will simply be nowhere to make it even shorter. First, file the most difficult part, that is, the upper corner joints and check the correctness of the file with a square. The angle should be clear, without deviations, and the cutting plane should be perfectly flat. If there is a deviation of even a couple of degrees, when assembling the box, you will not be able to achieve an angle of 90 degrees at the joints, which is a prerequisite for quality work.

Having finished cutting down the racks, we move on to transverse element of the box. Here you also need to be very careful. After all, the second end will need to be sawed down not only at an angle, but also along the length, so that the necessary gaps remain between the door leaf and the side posts of the frame. The length of the inner part facing the door leaf should be 8 mm. greater than the width of the door leaf . If the width of the door leaf is 60 cm, then the length will be 60.8 cm. Make precise markings and make a cut.

Now you need to cut the side posts to length. There is a small nuance here that should not be overlooked. Not only do we need a gap above the top of the door leaf, we also need a gap below of about 10mm. But the floor on which the box will be installed may not be perfectly flat, or “out of level.” In this case, if we cut the side posts to the same length, then during installation the door frame will warp, because one post will be higher than the other.

To avoid this, you need to check the level of the floor in the doorway. It is most convenient to use a laser level here, but you can also successfully see the difference with a regular rack level. It is only necessary that the level itself fits the width of the doorway. If the level is short, then do the following simple operation. Cut an even block of the required length, and place a level on it, thereby increasing its length.

So, let's say for example that you find a difference in floor height at the edges of the doorway of 6 mm. What to do next? The stand, which will rest on a low place, needs to be made longer by this same 6 mm. We do the calculation this way. The side posts should be 13 mm. exceed the length of the door leaf and equal 2.013 meters, which includes the length of the door leaf (2 meters), the gap above the leaf (3 mm) and the gap below it (10 mm). Let's add a difference of 6 mm to the rack resting on a low place. and we get 2.018 meters. If the floor is flat and clearly level, then the racks should be the same length (2.013 meters).

Please note that the level must show perfectly and not lie. To do this, turn it from right to left and evaluate the readings. They should be the same. If the readings vary, adjust the level if possible or throw it away and buy a better one.

Now that all the elements of the frame have been sawed down, assembly can begin, but first you need to mark the places for the hinges on the door leaf and frame.

Inserting and hanging hinges for a door frame

Let me immediately draw your attention to the fact that without professional tools and experience, you are unlikely to be able to install high-quality mortise hinges. The insertion is done using a manual milling machine, and not with a chisel and hammer, as many people think and are mistaken.

Therefore, I recommend buying overhead loops, as in the photo. They do not require insertion, and their installation does not take much time and effort. The overhead loop consists of two parts that fit into one another and form one plane. The smaller inner part is attached to the door leaf, and the larger one to the frame post.

Mark at the end of the door leaf 20 cm from each edge. Examine the canvas carefully and decide which way the door will open. Here it is important not to make a mistake and place the loops correctly. The hinge hinges should face the direction the door swings.

Place the hinge at the end until the hinges stop. Do not press the hinge too hard against the edge of the canvas. The loop should rotate freely on the hinges without touching the canvas. If, when opening the hinge, you notice that the hinge scrapes along the canvas, leave a small gap of 1 mm.

Place a mark in one of the hinge holes and drill a hole slightly thinner than the self-tapping screws that come with the hinges. There is no need to drill all four holes at once. You can make a mistake in the markings, and the loop will lead to the side. After tightening one self-tapping screw and making sure that the hinge has not moved and sits straight, drill the remaining holes and secure it. Do the same with the second loop.

Now we’ll screw the mating part of the loop to the box post. For convenience, it is better to place the door leaf on the floor and place the frame post next to it. In order for the hinges to lie evenly on the frame, the door needs to be raised slightly, adjusting the height with wedges. By leaning the box stand against the end, make sure that it protrudes slightly above the length of the canvas, which after assembly will allow the required gap of 3 mm to form. Then drill holes to secure the hinge. Now you don’t need to completely screw the hinges on, because you still need to assemble the box, and it’s more convenient to do this without a canvas.

Twisting or assembling a door frame

Lift the door leaf from the floor and set it aside, thereby making room for the door frame. It is also more convenient to roll the box on the floor, as you will soon see for yourself. To begin, the following preparations are required. Take the top part of the box and in the cut plane, perpendicular to it, drill two holes on each side for self-tapping screws, about a centimeter from the edges, as in the photo. In the uprights of the box, make one hole in the middle, also perpendicular to the plane.

Now, positioned correctly box elements, one by one, continue drilling to the adjacent part, and then screw them together with self-tapping screws. No need to look for any special screws. Any type will do, for example those that are used to secure drywall to metal profiles. The most important condition here is the clear connection of the sawn ends.

To ensure that the parts fit snugly together, place plywood under them. If you have a very flat floor, then you can do without it. I repeat that the most important thing here is to keep the plane from sliding at the moment of twisting. If you have strong hands, you can avoid skewing by simply holding the box with one hand while tightening the screw with the other.

Please note that it is not wood screws with a large thread pitch that are best suited for this twisting, but self-tapping screws for screwing drywall to metal profiles. Or other similar ones, that is, with small steps. A large pitch moves the parts away when twisting. Check it out on ordinary wooden blanks and make sure I’m right.

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Door frame assembly diagram

The door block is sold assembled or in parts. In the first case, the canvas is matched to the block, and all parameters are adjusted by the manufacturer. If the purchased door does not fit into the opening, then it is expanded. In the second case, you can purchase parts of the door frame and the leaf separately and fit the block to the door opening.

To assemble the door frame you will need:

self-tapping screws;
screwdriver or screwdriver;

hacksaw with blade for wood and metal;

pencil or marker.

Door Installation Tools

So, let's start assembling the door frame.

On a flat horizontal surface (the floor or a large table) we spread a material that will serve as protection against scratches during assembly.

We lay out 2 vertical bars of the disassembled box. They have a vestibule - special grooves that secure the canvas.

We put the door leaf into the narthex, leaving a gap of 2-3 mm.

We align the frame posts and apply the top block.

Mark the length of the top of the box and cut off the excess. It’s worth cutting strictly according to size, but if you miss a little, it doesn’t matter, the small imperfections will be hidden by the platband.

Screw the top rail to the posts using self-tapping screws or carefully nail it in place.

Measure the doorway again and cut off the excess.

Doors to bathrooms are equipped with a threshold. Measure another short beam for the threshold in the same way as the top crossbar.

The door frame is ready for installation.

Assembly order

Methodology – right angle. When assembling it yourself, it is recommended to completely assemble the structure, and only then place it in the opening.

Some step-by-step instructions discuss a different technology - preparing and installing individual parts of the frame in the opening, aligning them with the help of pads and further connecting them into a single whole. This method is much more complicated, and it is better not to practice without proper experience.

Preparation of the workplace: release a certain segment on the floor, put together several tables of equal height. The goal is to provide a level, solid base. Otherwise, it will not be possible to produce a high-quality assembly of the frame for the entrance or interior door.
Measuring the dimensions of the opening. Produced in 3 levels (width) and three points (height: in the center and sides). In accordance with this, the required dimensions of the box are determined; there should be a technological gap between it and the walls (recommended within 4±1 mm).

Cut out the samples. This is done if their length dimensions do not coincide with the opening. To do this you will need a pencil (draw lines) and a handsaw.
Pre-assembly of the box. All parts are laid out according to the diagram, taking into account the direction of opening of the canvas. That is, it takes into account which side of the rectangle the porch and loop jamb should be on. After the “shape” is aligned, its geometry and size matches are checked and marks are applied to select part of the quarter.
Preparation of joints. Notches are made along the marked lines, after which part of the part is removed using a chisel. To increase the reliability of the joint, the cut is leveled to an ideal state - with a knife, file, or grinder.
Marking for fittings and selecting material. It is more expedient to immediately prepare the “sockets” for the hinges and the latch (lock) strike plate than to do this after the door frame is installed in the opening. But modern canopies (for example, “butterflies”) should not be attached. They are fixed on the box when hanging the canvas. The only exception is for hinges of old modifications, dismountable; one half of them is installed on the frame during its assembly.

Connecting the parts of the box. For each “line” there are at least two fasteners. The interval between them is chosen so that they are located at least 5 mm from the edge.

Note. If a threshold is provided, then it is placed in a box with the calculation that there is at least 10 mm from it to the canvas. This is necessary to ensure natural air circulation.

All that remains is to check the correctness of the geometry, process the joints in order to eliminate possible differences in height and install the door frame in the opening.

It turns out that there is nothing overly complicated in assembling the jamb. During the work, you will not need cutters, a laser level or other special tools (equipment). All that is needed to “construct” a box is accuracy, attentiveness and precise markings.

Proper sizing is the key to success

The standard sizes of door leaves are

height 2000 mm
width 600 mm, 700 mm, 800 mm and 900 mm

All other sizes outside the scope are usually made to order items. (I mean single canvases, not swing ones)

You need to add 70 mm to the size of the door leaf - this is the standard width of the door frame. If the dimensions of the door frame are different, then the size will naturally change up or down. And we also add 6 mm - this is the technological gap between the leaf and the door frame.

Now you need to check how the door frame fits into the doorway. If it needs to be expanded, then we are not in a hurry to break everything at once. We soberly assess the situation - we may have to strengthen the opening with lintels. If you need to reduce the opening, then we fill it with bricks, or “sew on” bars - it all depends on the situation.

To help you understand what size doorway is needed, look at the formula:

Door leaf size + door frame size + 6 mm tech. gap + 60 mm (30 mm on each side for mounting foam and wedges that will be needed when installing the box)

Usually the dimensions of doorways are controlled at the construction stage, but in older private houses (like mine) there are “hard” discrepancies.

The next important dimension is the gap from the floor to the door leaf. Before calculating it, you need to check the level of the floors for the width of the door “swing”.

You can do this in two ways:

Using a hydraulic level

On the side walls of the opening we place marks at the same level. We measure the distance from each mark to the floor plane. The difference that you get when measuring should be added to the minimum height of the posts so that when opening the door does not rest on the floor. If you still “miss” this moment, then you can eliminate it only by trimming the door leaf, and this is still a “handjob” :(

2. Using a laser level

If you are the happy owner of a laser level, then everything becomes much simpler. We set the level and, using a construction square, determine the curvature of the floors. The obtained values are taken into account when setting sizes.

The minimum gap is 10 - 15 mm, depending on what kind of floor covering is planned. But it is better to immediately lay linoleum, or carpet, or, and then carry out the installation.

See the table of correspondence between door blocks and openings.

And here is another table of typical door frame sizes

Operation and care of interior doors

In order for the interior door to last longer and maintain its original appearance, you must adhere to simple rules for care and operation:

It is recommended to use interior doors when the room temperature is from +10 to +30C° and humidity is not more than 65%.
It is not recommended to allow sudden temperature changes or increases in air humidity in the room, which will lead to damage to the structure.
For rooms with high levels of humidity, or in unheated buildings, it is strictly not recommended to install MDF doors.
A glass door is suitable for such premises.
If there is high humidity in the room, in order to prevent damage to the interior doors, it is necessary to constantly ventilate the room.
It is necessary to open and close the door in such a way as not to cause damage, chips or scratches to the door leaf or frame.
In order not to spoil the appearance of the doors, it is necessary to carefully handle any mechanical influences.
It is recommended to wipe the door from dust and dirt with wood care products specially designed for this purpose in order to avoid damage to the coating.
Can be varnished
The door must be treated with a soft napkin or cotton cloth.
Never use acid or alkali for cleaning.

Before purchasing a door leaf, you need to carefully check the appearance and necessary equipment.

By following simple rules, you can ensure that your doors will delight you with their beauty for a long time.

Interior doors made of MDFMInterior doors made of solid wood

Interior doors made of glassInterior doors made of metal-plasticCombined interior doors

Assembly and installation of an interior door frame: dimensions, how to properly assemble the structure, make and connect the frame with an MDF threshold for a door measuring 80 cm, installation of door jambs, holes, cutting down the corner of the beam, video, photo

Features of assembling boxes for wooden baths

Wood is an excellent building material, differing from others in its ability to settle after construction, which is not very pleasing to its owners. Openings in bathhouses and houses made of logs or timber should not be equipped at all in the next couple of years after the construction of the crowns. Moreover, it is imperative to find out how to properly install a door frame in a timber or log opening.

There are 2 options here:

If the width of the opening formed during the construction process corresponds to the design solution, a groove is cut out in the end right in the middle and then a beam is hammered into it. It is to this beam that the box can be nailed, but not directly to the walls, because even after shrinking they continue to “settle” a little.
If the opening is not formed, you need to cut a hole for the passage with a width less than the design by two thicknesses of a kind of ridge. In such cases, the box beam is made with a groove.

In both options, the elements of the box also serve as a connector for the crowns. A gap is always left above the opening to protect against deformation during shrinkage.

It is up to the owner to decide which method of collecting the box to use. A lot depends on the specifics of use and the properties of the building material. We tried to introduce you to the most significant moments and subtleties that you should not forget about.

Inserting and hanging hinges for a door frame

Let me immediately draw your attention to the fact that without professional tools and experience, you are unlikely to be able to install high-quality mortise hinges. The insertion is done using a manual milling machine, and not with a chisel and hammer, as many people think and are mistaken

Mark at the end of the door leaf 20 cm from each edge. Examine the canvas carefully and decide which way the door will open.

Here it is important not to make a mistake and place the loops correctly. Hinge hinges should face the direction the door swings open

Sequence of the simplest assembly diagram

Without experience, there are not too many people willing to mill or painstakingly select tenons and grooves with a chisel, and not everyone has stocked up on equipment for perfect sawing diagonally. Therefore, most home craftsmen settle on the simplest scheme with the joining of elements at right angles.

Now let's find out how to properly assemble the door frame. It is more convenient to work by laying out all the components at a single level horizontally. Most often this happens on a floor covered with cardboard or other soft material, less often on two tables pushed together; you can fit four stools.

When purchasing timber separately from the canvas, keep in mind that the base for attaching the door in the opening should not be narrower than the canvas or wider than the wall.

On the site equipped for work, we lay out the box beams with the front side up, that is, with the rebates facing outward. If the beam is wider than the canvas, we bring the plane of the door to the same level as the future frame, placing soft-cover books under the canvas. According to any of the selected schemes, three standard elements are first used in the work: a false and hinged jamb and an upper crossbar.
It is recommended to make the top crossbar of a door frame installed in a brick or foam concrete opening wider than the frame to increase the load-bearing capacity. Usually it is 0.5 cm narrower than the opening. To find the points for attaching the vertical bars to it, first find the center of the lintel, then set aside equal distances in both directions.
To form an equal gap around the entire perimeter between the canvas and the box beam, cardboard or old linoleum cut into pieces is laid.
Having marked the gaps, we mark the cutting points without scratching the surface. It's better to press lightly with your fingernail. Experienced craftsmen do not recommend using a pencil, especially a poorly sharpened one, for marking. It will not provide accuracy.
Let's saw off the crossbar according to the chosen pattern.
Preferably, with an awl or a sharp scalpel, mark the part of the false profile that needs to be removed so that a plane is formed at the junction. Then we carefully “cut” the marked area with a chisel or saw it off. This is one of the most significant stages of box assembly, which does not tolerate inattention and mistakes. A minor shortfall in the length of the box beams will still be covered by the platband, and the projections of the narthex, poorly cut with a chisel or sawn off, will be visible. Have you decided to cut? Take a hacksaw and cut so as not to accidentally tear off the veneer from the underlying plane. For insurance, it is better to cover it with cardboard. After we have made a cut to the depth of the protrusion, we clean off the excess with a chisel.
We lay out the sawed-off bars around the canvas with cardboard in the gap. We mark the location of the loops with maximum accuracy. The standard is considered to be a distance for installing hangers of 20 cm from the top and bottom of the canvas. Not forgetting about the upper gap, we place a point on the hinge beam at a distance of 20.03 cm from the intersection of the lintel and the jamb.
We attach a hinge map to the hinge beam onto two screws and use a scalpel or awl to mark the shape of the socket and the points of the holes for the screws. Slowly and scrupulously remove the veneer or solid wood to a depth equal to the thickness of the card.
We will place the hinge flags in the sockets and secure them there with self-tapping screws. The lock strike plate on the box is installed only after the box has been secured in the opening and the door has been hung, as there may be discrepancies.
We return the loop beam to its proper place. We thoroughly check the perpendicularity of the elements to each other. We fasten the crossbar and racks, distributing two screws per connection.

The threshold is made in the same way as the lintel.

Opening measurement

Measuring the height of the opening

For those who like to do everything with their own hands and reduce the cost of work, we offer short instructions to help you correctly and quickly measure the doorway:

Measurements should be taken on bare walls. To do this, remove the door leaf and frame before starting work.
The distance between the walls is measured in several places: top, bottom and center. The smallest value is recorded.

Tip: If it was not possible to dismantle the door leaf and frame, you need to measure the door leaf or size from the center of one of the trims to the center of the other opposite trim. This will give approximate figures for the size of the opening.

Measuring the width of the opening

The distance is measured from the lowest point of the floor to the top of the opening or the distance between the floor and the center of the upper casing is calculated if the box could not be removed.

Opening measurement diagram

The depth of the opening is equal to the width of the wall. Therefore, the width of each wall is measured: on both sides of the opening and on top, or the thickness of the door frame is measured, and the wall protruding beyond it is added to it, if there is one.

Calculation of opening dimensions

After taking measurements, you can correctly calculate the size of the door leaf.

This takes into account:

The height of the door leaf and its width.
Thickness and width of the door frame.
Width of platbands.
If there is a threshold, its dimensions.

For example, we take the calculation of an opening for a door leaf with dimensions:

Height – 2 meters.
Width – 80 centimeters.
The thickness of the door frame is 25 millimeters.

When calculating the size of the opening for an interior door, it is necessary to add the thickness of the frame on both sides to the width of the door. In addition, the calculation also takes into account the installation gaps on each side, approximately 15-20 millimeters.

In this case, the width of the opening will be equal to: 800+25+25+15+15=880 millimeters. An example for calculation is shown in the photo.

Scheme for calculating the width of a door opening with a frame

This width of the doorway is an almost ideal option for manufacturers of interior doors. The doors are easily installed in standard sizes of residential openings.

The height of the opening is calculated in the same way, taking into account the installation gaps and the presence of a threshold. The height of the doorway will be: 2000+25+10+15=2050 millimeters.

As a result, for a door leaf with dimensions of 2 x 0.8 meters, the opening in the wall is 2.05 x 0.88 meters.

Scheme for determining the height of the opening

What is the thickness of door frames? Typically the standard size is 75 millimeters. This must be taken into account when installing the door.

Otherwise, you will need to use a box expander or saw it lengthwise. In this case, problems may arise during the subsequent installation of platbands, which will lead to damage to the appearance of the door.

Installation diagram of the additional element

To determine the parameters of the wall, you need to measure its thickness on all sides in three places. If the parameters around the perimeter of the doorway are the same, an interior door with non-standard dimensions is ordered. If the thickness at these points is different, the door frame is sawn or an extension is installed.

Installation diagram of the box with extensions

Watching the video in this article will allow you to correctly calculate the opening for installing the door leaf, taking into account the style, characteristics of materials, and operating conditions.

Assembling a door frame without a threshold

Let's look at assembling a door frame with your own hands using an MDF frame as an example. We will connect the upper parts at 45°, as this is the most aesthetic way.

1.First of all, you need to trim the parts of the box. This is done in order to eliminate irregularities or manufacturing defects.

If you have to use hand tools, it is better to use a fine-toothed saw or a hacksaw. Start making cuts from the veneer side so that chips, if any, remain on the invisible side.

2. We “saw” the loop beam and the vestibule at 45°. It is best to do this with a miter saw, but if you don’t have one, you will have to work with a miter box. To avoid unevenness when cutting, the miter box must be secured. We use a hacksaw with a fine tooth.

3. Next we move on to the most difficult part - “sawing” the top of the box - the lintels. You need to clearly set the size and not miss the corners. You can use a tape measure, but there is an easier way. To do this, we apply the lintel to the top of the door and mark the marks “in place” with a sharp pencil. To maintain the technological gap, you can use packaging cardboard - its width is just 3 mm.

4. Mark the height of the loop and false beams. I told you how to find out the required height a little higher. This is the height of the door leaf + the top gap of 3 mm + the bottom gap. If the floors are level, then 10 mm is enough. When opening, the door leaf should not catch or rest against the floor. You should not create a very high gap - 10 - 15 mm is enough for normal air circulation. If the room is damp, then larger values are allowed.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

If there is a difference where the doors are installed and there is no way to correct it, then the height of the racks may be different. The highest point of the difference is taken as zero.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

We constantly and meticulously check all the applied dimensions before washing down. If the box turns out to be smaller than the canvas, you will have to buy a new beam.

5. After all the components have been sawed down, we assemble the MDF door frame together, having previously drilled holes with a drill of a smaller diameter to prevent the frame from splitting. For connection we use 50 cm wood screws. It is more convenient to carry out work on the floor, placing cardboard or other material under the box.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

When you tighten the door frame, press its parts as tightly as possible, since the screws will stretch them.

Well, this is approximately the result you should get.

How to secure a door frame in an opening (detailed instructions)

The stronger and more securely the frame is fixed in the doorway, the longer the door will last without requiring repairs. There won’t be any particular difficulties if you follow all the tips and instructions. When installing an interior door, it should be secured so firmly that you can, for example, attach children's jumpers to it.

When securing the door frame in the opening, you can additionally read the instructions

How to properly secure a door frame:

After the door has been secured with spacers, you need to drill three holes on each support;
Anchor bolts or metal rods are driven into the prepared holes, the ends of which are flattened;
If installation is carried out into a concrete wall, then special dowels are driven in;
All cavities are carefully filled with polyurethane foam with the expectation that it can double in volume;
In a narrow passage, wide metal plates with holes are used to fasten door frames into which self-tapping screws are screwed or anchors are driven in.

Choosing material

I don’t have a definite answer here, since the choice depends on your preferences and budget. I will give examples of the most common materials used for door frames.

MDF doors

MDF is a wood fiber board. The doors are cheap, but they look good. The advantages include lightness and environmental friendliness. The disadvantages are reduced impact resistance, poor noise insulation and short service life.

Laminated solid wood

Glued board or "euro-timber".

These doors are not made of solid wood, but of parts glued together under high pressure. The joints on them are practically invisible. The doors are quite durable and cost a little more than MDF. Price and quality are acceptable.

Solid wooden doors

Doors are much more expensive than glued ones. Strong and durable. The disadvantage is incorrect processing by the manufacturer, as a result of which the wood is excessively saturated with moisture.

Doors made of chipboard and fibreboard

Wood-fiber or wood-pressed boards. These doors are very cheap as they are made from leftover material. The advantage of these doors is good mechanical strength, and quite good sound and noise insulation. The disadvantage is low moisture resistance, as well as the presence of a volatile substance in the glue, which has a detrimental effect on health. Another aspect is the complexity of installation, since the screws in such doors do not hold well.

In addition to those described, there are also plastic, glass, aluminum, and veneered ones. Doors with honeycomb filling, laminated, etc.

The choice of material is up to you, but it should be appropriate and practical.

Dimensions of interior doors

Their elements are made of pine boards or timber, and on top it is decorated with veneer of trees of more valuable species.

Box thickness

In standard apartments built in Soviet times, this size is 7.5 mm, so a box with a size of 10.8 cm is selected for them. If the thickness of the interior partitions is 10 cm, then you need to install a box of 12 cm. These are the standard sizes that are accepted domestic GOST standards. In interior doors from foreign manufacturers, the door thickness range is wider and ranges from 8 to 20.5 cm.

If the thickness of the wall turns out to be greater than the selected frame, then it can be increased by using additional elements or using a compensatory frame, which can be telescopic, expansion or act as a transformer.

The photo shows the thickness of the box

When taking measurements of interior doors, the thickness of the opening may be different; this is caused by the nature of the walls; they can be load-bearing or installed as partitions.

It is regulated and can range from 190 to 200 cm. These dimensions will satisfy the opening dimensions ranging from 194 to 203 cm or 204-211 cm.

When calculating the height of the future door, you need to take into account the threshold. It can be from 1 to 2 cm, and in the end it can be 208 cm, and without it 206 cm. This is the ideal height that meets the standard dimensions of many door frames.

Door structure width

It is measured from one to the second wall. Between this distance the canvas and two side elements of the box should fit. The standard width is 800 mm. Almost all manufacturers adhere to this dimension.

Dimensions of extensions

They can be no less important than the box itself. Thanks to them, you can eliminate the hollow section of the doorway.

They come in two types:

Planks with a protective edge. They are fixed in the opening with nails or an adhesive base. Their width can be changed by sawing, and their height is 2 meters.
Telescopic extensions. Suitable for solving any lack of width. Their installation is carried out using a special lock, which is a “tenon and groove”. The groove is made in a box, and the tenon is on the extension. Their width is adjustable from the side of the platband.

The feasibility of using extensions can be determined after measuring the width of the doorway.

In the video, the dimensions of the extensions are:

Dimensions of double doors

Comfortable dimensions for use are door widths of 120-180 cm. If the opening does not allow them to be supported, then the door leaves will be different in width, one smaller leaf is fixed in its place, and the second with larger dimensions is used as a regular door. The latter has standard dimensions, and its smaller counterpart has dimensions equal to 1/3 of it.

The photo shows double doors

The height of such doors can be from 2 to 2.5 m. The standard depth of double-leaf doors is from 7.5 to 11 cm.

Setting the parameters of doorways is not difficult if you know in which places they need to be measured. The obtained parameters are adjusted taking into account all gaps. If a mistake is made when installing interior doors, it can be corrected by filing the frame or installing additional elements; with the front door, the situation is not so simple. If there is a large gap between them and the wall, it may be necessary to install a counter box.

Preparation of the side surfaces

Then, on one of the side parts, which will be located on the hinge side, you need to mark the places where the hinges will be located. This is done by attaching this part to the side surface of the door. The depth of the groove is made equal to the thickness of the hinge sash. The recesses for the hinges are cut out very carefully so as not to damage the door leaf. This is easy to do with your own hands using a chisel and a hammer, while specialists usually use an electric cutter.

Next, you need to insert the loops into the recesses prepared for them in this way, and using a drill, make recesses for the screws on the side surface. Moreover, the diameter of the recesses should be smaller than the diameter of the screws that will be located here. Then, using self-tapping screws, the hinges are attached to the door leaf.

A latch lock is installed on the other side surface of the door.

Assembling a box from complete parts

When purchasing a door as a complete set, you are faced with the fact that only the door leaf corresponds to the size of the opening. The box has to be mounted and adjusted manually - the manufacturer cannot assemble it in advance, since he does not know the exact size of the opening.

The doors also do not have hinges, handles (see Handles for interior doors - how to choose the best) and locks, because the fittings are installed depending on the direction of opening the door. By the way, there may not be a threshold, and the thickness of the wall may be such that it will be impossible to cover it without additional planks. Therefore, before assembling the door frame of the interior door, all these nuances need to be taken into account.

Joining parts

The main challenge when assembling the door frame is to correctly make cuts and connect the pillar parts with the lintel. The crossbars and jambs have a profiled structure, and for an inexperienced person, the most difficult part may be making cuts at 45 degrees, and even more so cutting grooves and tongues, which are done before joining the parts.

If you type in the query line: “how to properly assemble a door frame video,” you will find many videos with which you can clearly see what the craftsmen do and how. As for the theoretical part of the work, you can familiarize yourself with them by reading our article.

How to properly assemble a door frame from MDF: joining using the groove method

You can use a regular miter box to make angled or straight cuts, but if you have the option of using a miter saw, the cut will be much neater and more precise. But to make the tenon joint, which is shown in the photo above, you need a manual router.
It should be noted that this option for joining the box parts is the most reliable. Tongue-and-tongue joints are considered nailless, but for greater strength craftsmen additionally reinforce them with galvanized nails. The tenons are formed over the entire thickness of the box beam, which must certainly be taken into account when marking before cutting parts to length.

Note! There is no big difference on which of the parts: vertical or horizontal, the tenons will be cut, and on which of the grooves are chosen - the main thing is that the connection is rigid. .

Cutting a blank for assembling a box using a miter saw

But if we look at things realistically, we understand that a router is a professional tool, and it is unlikely to be found in any home. And even more so, few people would want to painstakingly select grooves in a beam using a chisel with their own hands. Therefore, home craftsmen choose connection options that are more affordable, preferring to join the box parts at an angle.

Assembly technology

The door frame is assembled in several stages.

Stage 1

Door frame layout

Lay the door frame bars on the floor.
Carefully inspect the existing material and make sure that the shortest bar of the structure has grooves (their presence is important for the convenient connection of all parts).
Carefully fit the grooves on the top bar together with the side bars, and then knock all these elements together. To avoid damaging the material, use a wooden mallet.
Fasten the parts together with screws and check the reliability of the resulting structure.
If there are no grooves in a short bar, all parts of the structure are fastened with nails or screws.

Stage 2

Compound Saw off the protruding ends of the wooden blocks (so that they do not interfere with the assembly).
Pay attention to the surface of the resulting door structure - it should be even and smooth.
Check all corners of the structure - it is important that they are straight.
Take accurate measurements of the width of the top of the door frame.
Cut the strip so that its length is slightly longer than the measurement obtained, and nail it to the side beams.
Cut off the unnecessary ends of the rail.

At the next stage, you will need to start installing the door hinges.

Stage 3

Installing hinges on a box

On the inside of the structure, measure 20 cm from the top edge.
Attach the door hinge and trace its outline with a pencil.
It is known that a folded hinge leaves a small gap from the door to the frame (0.4 cm). Considering the thickness of the loop, calculate the depth of its installation.
Using a router, make a platform for attaching the hinge. If you don’t have an electric router, you can use a set of chisels for these purposes.
Make a seat for the bottom door hinge in the same way. But keep in mind that the distance from the bottom edge of the structure should be 21 cm (1 cm is allocated to the bottom gap).
Place the door frame, with the hinges installed on it, against the door and mark on the door the places where the hinges will be attached. Organize the hinge locations on the door in the same way as you previously did on the frame.

Stage 4

Using a plumb line during installation

Take measurements of the height of the side part and then transfer the resulting dimensions to the side bars of the door structure.
Keeping safety precautions in mind, carefully lift the U-shaped box from the floor and immediately begin installing it in the opening. Using a plumb line or level, carefully check the verticality of the box, the perpendicularity of all its constituent elements and the horizontality of the top bar. The frame may not “fit” into the opening the first time (even if you made all the measurements correctly). But it doesn't matter. The resulting gaps between the opening and the frame can be easily and quickly eliminated using wooden wedges or polyurethane foam.
After you install the frame in its designated place, be sure to secure it. Screw the door frame with dowels to the opening slopes.
Make sure that the door frame you assembled fits securely into the doorway.
Remove the temporary spacers and slats, and be sure to saw off the protruding parts of the wooden wedges.

Installation diagram

Proceed to hanging the door on its hinges and attaching the trim.

The platbands are secured with nails, self-tapping screws, or glue. After installation, the nail heads are usually rubbed down, and if self-tapping screws were used, decorative plastic plugs are put on them.

As you can see, installing a door frame requires not only knowledge, but also experience in installation work and patience.

Door frame dimensions

The dimensions of a wooden door frame are determined by several parameters:

The first is the dimensions of the door leaf chosen for the frame.
The second is the purpose and characteristics of the room.

Before starting work, you should read the instructions on how to assemble the door frame. It is worth saying that different rooms have different requirements for ventilation and sound insulation, and these, of course, must be provided by the door being installed. For example, a bathroom door should not let cold air in, nor should it allow warm air to leak out. Other rooms, for example, storage rooms, on the contrary, need ventilation so that the materials inside do not deteriorate. If the door is installed in a boiler room, then it would be useful to provide additional ventilation, especially if there is gas equipment.

To prevent heat loss, the door frame structure is constructed from four bars. As a result, it will be shaped like a closed rectangle. At the same time, the design of the door itself will contain such details as recessed and hinged vertical beams, as well as lintels. Between the frame beam and the door along the entire perimeter it is necessary to maintain a gap of 3 mm so that the door moves freely.

If it is necessary to provide ventilation, the box is assembled from only three parts. In this case, instead of the threshold, a technological gap of 16-18 mm is left. The door base will then have the shape of the letter P. In this case, the required offset of 3 mm must be observed only along the top beam and vertical posts. In addition, a gap of 2.5-3.5 mm must be maintained between the threshold and the new floor covering to compensate for the expansion of the material due to temperature changes.

A closed box is usually larger in height than an open one. This is due to the fact that the height increases due to the thickness of the threshold, and, consequently, the thickness of the door frame will be greater. This must be taken into account when carrying out calculations and measurements. Otherwise, the door will be too long and will have to be shortened to fit the opening. This is extremely undesirable to do, especially if the canvas is coated with veneer. If you have to cut such a coating, it is best to start from the side where there is decorative finishing, and then move to the side where this finishing is not present. In this case, the design of the box will not be damaged.

How to install a frame in an opening

A door frame assembled from any material must be correctly inserted into the opening intended for the door, so that it performs its functions for a long time without creaking or jamming.

Installation of an interior door with a frame

To do this you need to work as follows:

Carefully move the assembled structure to its intended location and temporarily secure it with polystyrene foam or packing cardboard. Using a level, the verticality of the surface is checked with the side where the hinges will be attached. The strength of the structure is necessary so as not to disrupt the evenness of the installation, so fixation is inserted into the gaps using wedges. They are made from wood waste.
Installation for such fastening is carried out from below the hinge arrangement, where fastening with dowels or screws will take place. The stakes are driven into the upper corners to achieve a stable position for the entire frame. Spacer wedges are driven in on each side one by one, and try to align them with each other with the cut parts. On one side, the installation of extensions is carried out, the other is carried out by leveling the door frame with the wall surface.
The door frame is fastened using holes prepared for fasteners to install hinges. Wedging must be present there so that deformation moments do not occur at the moment of screwing in the screws. In this case, the pretend side is slightly secured and not brought to the final stage. In order not to knock down the dimensions, the installation of this part occurs after the door leaf is installed.
For stability, foam is applied to the gaps.
All door hardware is installed.
Place a gasket under the canvas and screw on the looped parts one by one, starting from the top.

After completion, close the door completely, using spacers, and finish installing the door part. After this, they begin to apply foam around the perimeter of the entire structure. Experts recommend using spacer stakes; only they will ensure reliable stability and prevent skewing of the risers.

You should not increase the number of fasteners, since the door leaf acts under its own load with the help of hinges, so the main attention is paid to these places. . Excess hardware can create the appearance of unnecessary holes and only under the hinged base will the fasteners reliably hold, which must be screwed tightly

You cannot hide unreliable screwing with foam; it cannot get rid of the problem.

Excess hardware can create the appearance of unnecessary holes and only under the hinged base will the fasteners reliably hold, which must be screwed tightly. You cannot hide unreliable screwing with foam; it cannot get rid of the problem.

Do-it-yourself door installation is shown in the video:

Categories

Windows and doors

Door frame assembly process

In work of this nature, preparation plays a big role. The process of assembling a door frame usually does not cause any particular difficulties. To do this, you should prepare the most necessary tools (drill or screwdriver) and screw several blocks into one common structure.

In order for the installation of the box to proceed quickly and in an organized manner, you need to prepare a number of devices:

Tools for assembling a door frame.

roulette;
pencil;
a drill with drills of different diameters or a hammer drill;
screwdriver;
chisel;
electric jigsaw;
plane for leveling door elements;
plumb line, level;
hacksaw for wooden surfaces;
polyurethane foam;
screws;
finishing nails.

Installation of the door frame begins with preparing the drill. A drill of 2-3 mm in diameter is screwed onto it, then the corner of the future box is carefully aligned with the end of the support and 2 holes are drilled. You can’t do without them, because screws can damage the wood when screwed in. Once the holes are drilled, you need to take a Phillips screwdriver and screw 50-60 mm screws into the finished hole. Other corners are made in the same way.

Door frame assembly diagram.

These are the main points used in the construction of the door leaf

To check the size match, you should put it in a box, focusing on the gaps, the acceptable dimensions of which will be 2-3 mm. Once the appropriate measurements have been made, the products are combined into one design.

The door frame can be assembled in another way; the supports and lintels with the threshold can be cut at an angle of 45°. However, this approach is complex, so it is best left to specialists. This will require special equipment and experience in carrying out such work.

Step-by-step instructions on how to assemble the structure. Photo

In order to install an interior door frame with your own hands, you will first need to cut the timber according to pre-measured dimensions.

Initially, you need to cut parts with a longer length, be sure to take into account the gap from the floor to the door (depending on the thickness of the floor covering).
Next, cut off the remaining bars, exactly to the measured dimensions.
Any trimming of the canvas that is required is best done with a “circular” in order to accurately maintain the size - 45º.
Cutting the blade at an angle of 45 degrees
Connect long and small parts that have been cut off, clamp them with a clamp and accurately drill through. Drill for two (using the same principle) on both sides and tighten the elements together with self-tapping screws.

The main thing is to carefully ensure that in no case is there any mixing or distortion of the combined elements.

After choosing the side into which the door will open, you can install the hinges and lay the U-shaped frame. Attach the door leaf. It is worth considering that there should be a gap of 3 mm between the box and the canvas (to account for this, you can insert cardboard between the two elements).
Check whether the right angle is maintained everywhere and whether there are the necessary gaps.
Next, you can begin marking the location for the mortise lock and hinges.
Lock mortise
Now you can remove the door leaf from the frame.
At this stage, it is necessary to cut into the mating part of the lock and make the corresponding groove.
Secure the parts with screws and screw the hinges to the door leaf.
Installation of hinges
After this, check everything carefully again, try to turn the door leaf in the direction in which the door will open.
Next, you can proceed in two ways:
Install the entire block: box, canvas and necessary parts;
The box is separate with spacers.

The door leaf must be covered with tape or film in order to protect it from polyurethane foam, which will then be very difficult to remove.

Place the canvas in the box carefully in the opening and use wedges to secure its upper part.
Fixing the door leaf
Check the alignment and vertical position of the installed structure with a level or plumb line.

Even if the doorway has some deviations vertically, the door is still installed vertically, otherwise it will not close in the future.

After the wedges fix the structure, a spacer is installed (door width + 6 mm), clearly opposite the wedges located below.
Now you can foam the structure, with the door closed and after it dries, remove the wedges and excess construction foam.
Foaming the box

Polyurethane foam is unsafe, so it is recommended to work with it only with gloves.

Recommendations on how to connect a frame with an MDF threshold for a door measuring 80cm

The threshold is an extension of the frame and includes special strips that match the width of the opening, which are matched in color and texture to the door leaf or frame.

Thresholds are most often made of MDF and generally have a height of up to 20 mm.

Special strips for the threshold are attached to the frame with screws, and construction foam is blown into the gaps formed by the wall.

Provided that the door is 80 cm wide, the frame will be mounted in the doorway, you must carefully measure everything so that the frame fits the threshold.

Based on previously performed measurements, a box is installed according to the classical scheme and before blowing in the foam, a threshold is set, the size of which should vary 80 cm + 6 mm for gaps.

Advantages of pressing

The choice of many owners of MDF doors and frames is due to the following advantages:

Providing small load effects on load-bearing elements due to the lightness of the materials
products are manufactured with a homogeneous structure, which is the reason for their integrity, and the stability of fastening elements is also noted
the development of technological processes in the field of decoration produces products with imitation of expensive natural finishes

The disadvantages of cheap panels include:

poor resistance to direct contact with water, swelling and deformation of geometric parameters occurs
the change in shape is caused by the installation of a thin door frame and a heavy door leaf
requires careful handling regarding mechanical damage
installation contains labor-intensive procedures

If we compare MDF and wooden boxes, of course, natural material takes precedence on all sides.

Even if it has lost its original appearance over time, it can be easily restored with the help of repair and restoration projects. But for consumers, their ability to pay often comes first.

The materials and tools for carrying out the work are no different from the above proposed list except for the MDF elements themselves. The main condition for assembly is the formation of a rectangle.

The work must be carried out on a flat surface on which:

laying the door leaf
parts of vertical risers are placed on the side sections
carry out cutting of workpieces, adjusting the height with the corresponding 3mm. gaps at the top and bottom, if a threshold is provided
the jumper at the top is also cut according to the width and side gaps

Then they move on to the connecting actions of the jumper and vertical riser. As soon as the assembly is completed, it is necessary to check whether a structural distortion has occurred.

Making a door frame

Door frame manufacturing diagram.

You can assemble a frame for interior doors yourself from a standard wooden frame profile (timber). First, the height and width of the doorway are carefully measured. 30 mm is subtracted from the height of the opening; two beams of this length are measured and cut for the side posts. The top crossbar is prepared in the same way. Using a special tool - a miter box - the upper ends of the side posts and both ends of the crossbar are cut at an angle of 45º. A special tool is used to accurately form the angle. When preparing the crossbar, it should be taken into account that the length of its shorter side after cutting the corners should be the width of the door leaf plus 7 mm.

The side post and the crossbar are joined along the cut so that the bars are strictly perpendicular. A soft sealing gasket of small thickness (about 3 mm) is first placed between them. The beams are compressed and secured with clamps. Two holes are drilled in the long element perpendicular to the cut plane with a diameter of 4 mm. The joint is tightened through the holes with screws. It is advisable to coat the joint plane with wood glue. The second corner of the box frame is tightened in the same way. To temporarily strengthen the structure, it is recommended to install a removable jumper at the bottom.

Even greater confidence in the strength of the joint can be achieved by installing a dowel. To do this, a hole with a diameter of 12-15 mm is drilled in the middle of the joint perpendicular to the cut plane (joint of beams) and a wooden dowel is driven into it. The hole and connecting element are pre-coated with wood glue.

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How to properly install a door frame for an interior leaf

When looking for the most suitable option for an interior door, you cannot leave out the question of a door frame for the product you like. Selecting and installing a door frame is sometimes simply impossible due to unacceptable wall thickness or poor location of the opening. In order to correctly select and then correctly install the structure in question, careful measurements and calculations are necessary.

The width largely determines the aesthetics of the design and the opening itself: for example, with a narrow interior door, the space has to be closed by installing additional elements or trims. At the same time, a too wide door frame causes significant alterations in the partitions or walls of the room.

Before starting the required calculations, it is necessary to perform a number of measurements. Without this, the installation process will be quite tedious and may not work the first time. The following are subject to measurements:

the actual width of the existing opening (taking into account the space remaining after all dismantling work);
the actual height of the opening (the restrictions are the same as for the width);
wall thickness at the location of the opening;
distance to the nearest corner of the room/room.

The described list is valid in the case when the opening will not be moved, and everything will be limited only to the installation of a new door. Otherwise the situation will become even more difficult.

First of all, it is worth analyzing the standard sizes of door frames for interior doors. Of course, if you have the appropriate funds, you can order a non-standard design. Especially when it comes to arranging interior passages in large halls or living rooms.

You should also take into account the country in which the interior door is made. Products imported from France, for example, have dimensions that differ from those generally accepted in our country

Fortunately, there are no more exceptions - all Italian and Spanish-made products have already been adapted to domestic standards.

Blade size, mm

Box size in plan, mm

The information given in the table concerns only the minimum and maximum dimensions of standard canvases produced by domestic furniture factories. For more detailed information, please contact the manufacturer directly.

During the selection process, the subsequent installation location of the finished product should also be taken into account. For example, formally a design with overall dimensions of 670 × 2047 mm is suitable for a bathroom, but if it is then impossible to bring a washing machine into the room, then all the work will be in vain.

Preparing the bars and assembling the box

Our door is flat and therefore for our door the length of both vertical beams will be 2010 mm (the height of the door leaf is 2000 mm + two gaps between the door leaf and the frame beam of 5 mm at the top and bottom). Be sure to check the cut on each side of the beam, as they often do not correspond to a 90-degree angle from the factory. To ensure an even cut and a 90 degree angle, it is better to use a miter box. Our lintel and threshold are also the same, 860 mm each (door width 800 mm + two gaps between the door leaf and the box beam, 5 mm each on the left and right + 50 (two thicknesses of the box beam, excluding the size of the rebate, which has a height of 10 mm).Next follows a very important moment, shown below in the figures.To tightly connect the horizontal beam with the vertical one, it will be necessary to saw off the rebate on both sides, both at the lintel and at the threshold, in our case by 35 mm (this is the thickness of our box beam, taking into account the rebate).Total 4 cuts that must be made carefully and carefully so as not to damage the side visible surface of the frame beam with the saw teeth. To do this, do not cut the rebate completely, leaving about 1 mm (it’s better to carefully remove it with a chisel or file) and be sure to place it under the side visible surface of the box beam is a protective, dense and thin material (a piece of sheet metal or transparent plastic). It is better to play it safe and be patient, the work is very delicate, because if you overdo it a little, the surface will remain damaged, which will spoil the appearance of the solid structure. When cutting the narthex, you need to ensure that the further connection of the perpendicular bars is without any gaps, using the same 90-degree cut discussed above.

Let's start rolling the box.

NOTE! When twisting, check the correct assembly with a square. And to make the process of screwing in screws (especially by hand and long ones) easy and fast, use the old, time-tested, “old-fashioned” method, lubricating the threaded part of the screws with soaked soap (shown in the figure)

As fasteners we use wood screws (70-80 mm long), having previously drilled holes with a drill (2.5 mm in diameter) in the places where screwing will be done so that the beam does not burst. For a better and more reliable connection, it is recommended to drill holes to a depth slightly less than the length of the screws (about 60-65 mm for 70 mm fasteners), and, naturally, the diameter of the drill should be less than the diameter of the screw core (that is, without a spiral external thread of the fastener element). We screw two screws into one side of each corner of the box. If you want to make the box more durable, you can add another screw in the middle on the other side of the corner.

Go back to the previous section “Installing the handle and latch into the door leaf.” >>

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Assembly methods

The door frame installation guide depends on how it is assembled. Designs come with or without a threshold and with different nuances of securing parts.

How to assemble a door frame at 45° and without a threshold

Typically, MDF products are installed according to this scheme. Detailed instructions for making a box using this method:

To eliminate unevenness, you need to trim the box blanks.
The loop and false beams are sawn in the upper part, at 45 degrees inward. For work, it is better to use tools with fine teeth or a hacksaw, this will help avoid damage to the finish. When working with products made from eco-veneer or laminated MDF, it is best to saw from the reverse side, so that possible cracks remain on it.
After processing the side parts of the box, you can proceed to sawing the lintel. It is sawn on both sides at 45 degrees inward. It is important to measure everything carefully so that when assembled the parts form a right angle. Do not forget that a gap of 3 mm must be maintained. Measurements can be made either using a tape measure or by placing the beam directly against the doorway, making notes with a pencil.
Next, you need to adjust the loop and trim beam in height, from the bottom, to the beginning of the cut corner. If there is no threshold, it is enough to add two gaps to the height of the door, 3 mm + 10-15 mm. After hanging, the door should close tightly enough, without obstacles to opening, and not touch the floor.
Once all the components are sawed down, you need to move on to assembling the parts. It's easier to work by placing them on the floor. For safety, it is better to use a small diameter drill. Self-tapping screws must be for wood; they are also screwed at an angle of 45 degrees. When fastening the parts, they must be pressed tightly against each other, since the screws stretch the parts.
After assembly, the structure must be tried on in the doorway; if the calculations are accurate, it will fit into it without any problems.

The measurements must be checked several times. If a mistake is made and the door frame turns out to be too small for the door leaf, you will have to purchase new material.

How to assemble a door frame with a 90 joint yourself

The simplest assembly option, which a beginner can handle, is also often used when working with wood-fiber materials. How to assemble with a 90 degree joint step by step:

The side beams are adjusted to the height of the doorway, taking into account all the gaps. They will reach to the very top of the doorway.
The upper part is fixed between the loop and the false part, so it must be shortened by as much as the width of both side beams. After connecting, the three parts should fit snugly into the width of the opening.
After preparing the components, you can proceed to assembly. Holes for self-tapping screws are made in advance to avoid cracks in the wood; they should enter from the sides, at an angle of 90 degrees.

Assembling a door frame with a threshold

Structures equipped with thresholds are usually installed at the entrance to houses, as they retain heat and make the box more durable. Even though a new part is being added, assembling the parts is not difficult. The first steps are identical to those performed during the installation of boxes without a threshold. The lintel and side beams can be installed at angles of 45 and 90 degrees. The threshold is always set at a right angle. Step-by-step instructions for assembling a box with a threshold:

The threshold beam must be sawn exactly at a right angle, observing the width, from one side part to the second, you can also focus on the formula: door width + 6 mm gap. To correctly determine the height of the threshold, it is necessary to place the structure in the door leaf.
Next, you need to carefully cut down the thrust quarter on the false and hinged beams, to the height of the bottom board, to securely fasten the threshold. Measurements must be taken accurately, otherwise you can simply ruin the material.
Once the components are prepared, you can proceed to connecting them, also tightening them tightly so that the parts do not fall apart. When working with entrance doors, it is better to use galvanized self-tapping screws.

Door frame tenon connection

A less common method of connecting box parts can be done without using self-tapping screws, however, to ensure strength it is best to use galvanized nails or special assembly adhesive.

The principle of this method is that at the junction of the components, it does not matter whether it is placed at a right angle or at 45 degrees, tenon joints are cut out. One of the parts has the connection itself (tenks), and the second has grooves machined for it, into which it is tightly inserted.
.

Preparing material and tools

Since we are talking about improving the interior of the room, before starting assembly it is necessary to decide on the material:

Metal has excellent strength, so it is best suited for entrance doors. But you need to take into account that working with metal requires special tools, skills and a lot of energy.
Wood is an excellent combination of strength and environmental friendliness, so it is a universal option. Noble types of wood are suitable for both exterior and interior doors.
MDF (fibreboard) is an environmentally friendly material made from sawdust with a natural binder, has a smooth surface, looks good, and is therefore perfect for when you need to install interior doors. MDF is easy to process, is not afraid of moisture, and in many characteristics is not inferior to wood at a price almost half as low.

There should be enough material:

timber for the door frame (two lengths L + 8 cm, where L is the height of the door and two more lengths N + 8 cm, where N is the width of the door leaf);
platbands and extensions (in case the width of the doorway is greater than the width of a standard beam).

If the box is without a threshold, then only one beam of shorter length will be needed - for the top crossbar.

Prepare the necessary tools. We will need:

slick;
hammer;
a hacksaw (ideally, a special electric saw with a rotating mechanism would be suitable, but we will assume that you are not a specialist and do not have expensive tools);
electric drill with a replaceable bit, which can also be used as a screwdriver;
level;
carpenter's knife.

For fastening we will use screws of different sizes with fine pitches.

Let's assume that you have already carefully dismantled the door frame that you want to replace.

How to assemble a box

Beginning craftsmen choose the easiest method, joining the parts at right angles. To begin the procedure, you need to assemble all the structural elements on a horizontal platform. A floor surface covered with any available material or tables moved together will do.

The technological process consists of the following working order:

Lay out the bars facing the front, align the door plane with the future frame. Regardless of the chosen connection, the elements consist of a loop, a false jamb and a lintel piece.
The crossbar related to the lintel frame, if it is installed in an opening made of foam concrete or brick, must be wider in width than the frame, this increases the load-bearing capacity. Then they determine where to attach the jambs to the lintel. From the middle of the lintel beam, equal dimensions are measured on both sides.
Form equal gaps between the frame and the door leaf on all sides using various gaskets.
If necessary, the points for cutting are determined.
The crossbar is being manufactured.
An awl or scalpel is used to mark the false profile area for further removal to form an area for connecting points. Careful cuts or cuts are made according to the marks.

Installation actions are carried out with special attention. Allowing minor errors in the dimensions of the beams masks other elements and appears unaesthetically in the false areas

The formation of excess can be removed with a chisel if the recess is cut out correctly.

The next assembly stage consists of the following actions:

The pieces of bars prepared with the necessary cuts are laid out where the gaps on the canvas are marked with gaskets. Mark the places where the loops will be placed. If a standard door is selected, add the upper gap to this size and determine a point equal to a distance of 2.03 m from the intersection of the jamb and the lintel.
Hinged sashes are screwed onto the corresponding beam, a boundary is marked with a sharp object along which material will be removed and traces are made at the points, mounting holes will be drilled there. Based on pre-made measurements and markings, selective actions are carried out on the section of the bar. The recess should be equal to the thickness of the loop element.
After the shapes for the hinged sashes are formed, they are placed in the prepared recesses and screwed with screws.
The work will be completed by checking the correctness of all fastenings made, fixing the crossbar element with the posts.

Only the accuracy of measurements, checking the level for compliance of all parts, the correctness of their fixation without distortions, will make it possible for everything to work well.

Final stage

The final stage includes the installation of platbands on the door frame. They give the door block an aesthetic appearance and hide minor installation flaws.

Completing the installation of the interior door

First of all, the length of the casing is determined. To do this, you can use the size table, or determine it yourself by measuring the length and width of the structure at the extreme point of the box. To join the platbands, it is necessary to make a side cut at an angle of 45°. You can use a miter box (a special device that allows you to cut wood products according to specified angle parameters) or a jigsaw, having previously measured the required angle with a protractor.

Next, each of the side trims is nailed to the box with two nails (bottom and middle). The upper horizontal casing is measured and sawed at an angle of 45°. After this, all 3 planks are finally nailed.

Advice. To ensure that the nails do not peek out from the platband, they must be recessed. Using a drill with a diameter corresponding to the size of the nail head, cut a recess of 1-1.5 mm.

Determining the dimensions of door frames in a newly manufactured opening

And in this case, you cannot do without careful measurements and calculations. Installing the door frame correctly means not only getting rid of unnecessary work during installation. The size of the door along with the frame can affect the subsequent arrangement of furniture, the availability of free space in the room, etc.

The sequence of actions in order to correctly determine what the thickness of the door frame should be is as follows.

The dimensions required for installation are determined. Initial data:

overall dimensions of the door leaf,
overall dimensions of the door frame,
presence or absence of a threshold,
width of platbands.

The width of the opening is calculated according to the dependence: Шп = Шд + 2Вк + z/2, where Шд is the width of the interior door; Vk – thickness of the door frame; z = 30-40 mm – installation gap between the interior door and the frame. Such gaps are arranged to improve air exchange, and for the kitchen the gap is taken to be the maximum allowable. Taking into account the above, the width of the door frame is set.

From similar considerations, the required opening height Нп can be determined: Нп = Нд + Вк + z/2 + Нп. Here Hd is the height of the door leaf, Hpr = 10-20 mm is the height of the threshold (if a threshold is not provided, then instead of the z/2 value it is necessary to substitute the double value of the installation gap into the formula). It should be noted that the presence of a threshold reduces heat loss in rooms such as bathrooms or toilets, and will also help stop the spread of water in the event of flooding.

The telescopic frame of the interior door provides significant convenience for subsequent installation. This design option is equipped with special grooves that eliminate the use of platbands, therefore, the fastening of the entire assembled product is simplified. This design is intended mainly for main walls, where fastening in a standard way is difficult. Fastening and assembly is carried out with your own hands before wallpapering the wall, and there is no need for additional installations.

What is the root problem?

The complexity of a number of operations for assembling the base frame for hanging a door lies in the specifics of the production of cuts and in the connection of components. The work, which seems simple to the inexperienced layman, is made difficult by the presence of a pretend recess on the profiled jambs and crossbars of the future box.

Two schemes for constructing a box

You can join them by making cuts:

at an angle of 45º, for which you need a good miter box with a reward, but it is much better if you can cut off the excess beautifully with a miter saw;
at an angle of 90º, for the implementation of which you will need not only a fine-toothed saw and the accuracy of the performer, but also knowledge of the technological subtleties of essentially not too complex work.

To make a strong connection between the components, galvanized self-tapping screws or “nailless” tenon joints are used. Tenons can be formed at both of the above angles. However, they are milled predominantly perpendicular to the full thickness of the box beam, which must be taken into account when calculating and marking the length and width of the door frame.

It makes no difference whether the tenons of the transverse planks of the box will fit into the grooves of the horizontal ones or vice versa. If only the connections were strong and unshakable, for which they are sometimes reinforced with additional zinc-coated nails.

Shape and dimensions of the structure

The geometric parameters of the base box being constructed determine two conditions:

the width and length of the door leaf itself, which this frame is designed to cover and support;
purpose and category of the premises being equipped.

Therefore, even before the starting stage of work, it is necessary to clearly determine where and how the owner of the door and opening on his personal property wants to install the door frame.

Depending on the purpose of the premises, the requirements for ventilation or insulation that the door must provide change. The entrance door to the bathhouse and the door to the steam room should not let the cold in and let the beneficial warm air out. The washing compartment on the contrary needs additional ventilation so that excess steam generation is spontaneously discharged and building materials do not rot. Additional ventilation is definitely needed in the boiler room, especially if gas equipment is installed there. What can be done:

If it is necessary to provide a barrier against heat leakage, four bars will be required to construct the door frame, which, after joining, will turn into a closed rectangular frame. The door frame will consist of a rebated and hinged vertical bar, a lintel - an upper cross member and a threshold connecting two vertical elements in the area where they interface with the floor surface. Between the box beam and the leaf along the entire perimeter, a 3 mm technological gap must be maintained for free movement of the door.
If it is necessary to ensure the natural outflow of steam and polluted air, the box is assembled from only three parts, since instead of a threshold that prevents aerodynamic processes, a gap of 15.0 - 20.0 mm must be made. In such cases, the door base resembles the letter P. The 3 mm gap established by the technology runs only along the vertical posts and the lintel.

Between the threshold and the newly laid floor covering, you need to leave a gap of 2-3 mm in case of thermal movements.

A closed box, naturally, is higher than its open counterpart, since it is increased due to the thickness of the threshold. This nuance must be taken into account when making calculations so that you do not have to “shorten” the door leaf, which is especially undesirable if it is covered with veneer.

Important. If you must cut on a veneered surface, start on the side with the finish and work your way to the side without the decorative finish.

This way the veneer will suffer the least amount of damage and the chips will be minor.

Assembling a door frame with a threshold

Now it’s worth considering the process of assembling a door frame with a threshold. For variety, we will connect the elements of the box not at an angle of 45°, as in the case described above, but at an angle of 90°. We do this on purpose in the hope that extra knowledge will not hurt anyone.

Construction of a door frame with a threshold

Wooden threshold in box design

In addition, such a connection of door frame elements is considered more durable. If in the first case the length of the screws was limited by the thickness of the corner joint, now these restrictions are removed; the screw can enter the body of the bar by 2–3 centimeters. A stronger connection increases the stability of the door frame threshold, and it can be subject to significant forces.

Measurements and preparation

Checking the condition of the doorway, checking the floor level in the corners, taking dimensions, preparing places for installing hinges and drilling for screws to secure the frame is no different from assembling a door frame without a threshold. And then the differences begin.

Step 1. Saw off the top horizontal bar of the box. Its length should be equal to the width of the door leaf plus 6 millimeters for gaps on both sides of the frame. You need to make two such blanks - one is used under the door threshold.

Marking and cutting blanks

Step 2. On the vertical bars of the box, you need to remove the protruding thrust quarter. Keep in mind that the clean size of the vertical posts should be equal to the height of the door leaf plus 6 mm for gaps on both sides. In addition, the left and right vertical posts of the door frame must take into account the difference in floor height at the corners of the doorway. We have already described all technological operations in the first example; there is no point in repeating them.

To remove a quarter, attach the horizontal part to the end of the vertical post of the box and mark its width. Take measurements with maximum accuracy, do not allow any gaps to appear in the connection. No matter how you fix them later, a true master will always see the shortcomings. Carefully file the protruding quarter along the marked line; the depth of the cut should be equal to the height of the quarter. Use only a fine-toothed hacksaw; the tool, as always, must be in good condition.

Removing the Quarter Box

Sawing a quarter

Step 3. Remove a quarter from the end of the vertical bars with a chisel. Do the work very carefully. The plane of the block after removal should be perfectly flat across its entire width. Hold the chisel correctly while working. It has a flat bottom part, and the top is sharpened at an angle. The top plane should always be visible, otherwise the chisel will spontaneously cut into the wood and you won’t get a smooth surface. This rule applies to all cases of working with a chisel. Do the same work on all sides of the door frame.

Step 4. Place the parts on a flat surface and connect the upper part of the door frame first. Before screwing in, you need to first drill holes in the parts that are slightly smaller in diameter than the diameter of the screws. This will eliminate the possibility of cracking or the appearance of a gap between the parts during connection.

Assembling the top of the box

Corner assembly diagram

Step 5. Before assembling the threshold, we advise you to check the compliance of its dimensions and the correct location. To do this, carefully place the assembled frame of the box, consisting of two vertical and one horizontal elements, on a flat area and put the door leaf in place. Mark the exact position of the hinges on the door leaf, check all the gaps around the perimeter of the door frame and door leaf. As long as there is no threshold, the vertical posts can be moved a little. Check the distances again, check that the threshold is made correctly and, if necessary, correct any mistakes; in this situation, you have the opportunity to slightly adjust the dimensions.

Installation of a door frame - photo

Classic door threshold

Video - Assembling a door frame with a threshold

Installation of the frame in the doorway

In order to initially “hold” the door frame in the opening, you will need hanging strips, which are used when installing a metal frame for plasterboard walls. The installation procedure for the box will be as follows:

Hanging strips are attached to the wooden profile bars on the side adjacent to the wall with self-tapping screws so that their tendrils extend onto both sides of the wall by 5-7 cm. 2-3 such strips will be enough for vertical bars, 1-2 for horizontal bars.

The box is installed in the opening and secured to these strips. The mustaches are attached to the wall on both sides with anchors or self-tapping screws with dowels.
At the bottom, if there is no lower bar, it will be necessary to install a spacer bar equal in width to the upper bar.

Wooden wedges are carefully driven into the gaps between the frame and the doorway to impart rigidity to the structure. In this case, it is constantly necessary to control the level of strict horizontality and verticality of the bars.

Along the perimeter of the box, several holes are drilled at equal distances for anchor bolts to securely fix the box. It will need to be deepened to the width of the cap, after which the hole can be sealed with a primer or special wood putty.

The door leaf is hung, the gaps between the frame and the wall are filled with foam.

Install the platbands, securing them with furniture nails, after which the joints are covered with wax mastic.

A correctly installed frame will allow the door to open and close easily, without noise or extraneous sounds. We hope our tips will help you install the door frame yourself quickly and efficiently.

Read about further steps when installing an interior door in the following review.

How to properly assemble a frame for an interior door yourself

The door frame is mounted in the entrance opening of the wall and is part of the door structure on which the door is hung using hinges, serving as an obstacle to entry into or exit from the room. The box is made of MDF, chipboard or wooden beams with a thickness of 75-85mm. When the wall thickness is more than 85 mm, additional strips are used, which are installed in special grooves of the beams. The door frame has a cutout 1/4 deep equal to the thickness of the leaf.

To install hinges in the box, material is sampled in an amount equal to the thickness of the hinged sash. This is necessary for a tight fit of the door leaf to the frame jambs. Butterfly door hinges are installed without insertion.

The door frame is a frame structure. Its vertical components are called jambs, one of which is looped, the other is feigned. The hinge beam carries the main load of the door leaf. The horizontal upper box lintel is called the “lintel”, and the lower one is called the “threshold”. The threshold in the box is an optional element. It is installed when it is necessary to eliminate drafts by covering the gap under the door leaf. Doors with thresholds are often installed to keep spilled water from entering adjacent rooms. The gap between the floor and the threshold is hidden by the thickness of the floor covering. Therefore, the assembly of the door frame with the threshold is carried out before laying linoleum, laminate and other materials used for finishing the floor.

Requirements for the door frame

Door frame size table.

In order for the box to fulfill its functions, several conditions must be taken into account when choosing or manufacturing it. First of all, the door frame must correspond to the dimensions of the doorway - be 20-30 mm smaller than the dimensions of the opening in all directions. The side posts of the box must be strictly vertical, and the top crossbar must be strictly horizontal. The thickness (width in the transverse direction) of the box must be selected so that the platband lies on its side edge and the wall without distortion. The thickness can be adjusted further.

An interior door (its frame) usually has a height of 207 cm and a width of 80 cm. In bathrooms and toilets, the opening width is most often 70 cm.

The door frame must have sufficient mechanical strength to hold the door leaf without the slightest deformation. In interior boxes installed in the bathroom and toilet, it is desirable to install thresholds (height above the floor about 2 cm), which play the role of some sealing of the room. In the kitchen, on the contrary, a threshold is undesirable, and the door leaf has a gap of up to 20 mm at the bottom for ventilation.

Installing an interior door frame with your own hands is not as easy as it seems at first glance, so you need to approach this process with full responsibility. Before starting work, it is worth carefully studying all the theoretical aspects of the work and preparing the required materials and tools. In addition to studying the stages, you can watch a video containing detailed instructions for performing the work. This will allow installation to be completed without errors.

In order to install an MDF box, there cannot, of course, be a universal set of tools, but there is still a list of the most necessary ones. The first thing you will need in almost any job is a marking pencil, a tape measure with a square and a knife. To prepare grooves for locks with hinges, you cannot do without the well-known chisels. In addition, you will need hammers, a plumb level and a hacksaw. You need to purchase screwdrivers and pliers.

Do not be afraid of power tools, since installation is hardly possible without a drill or screwdriver. In addition, a screwdriver is used not only for screwing in screws, but also instead of a drill, only with less power. A hammer drill will be needed for installation in the same way as a miter saw, which will be used to prepare the elements.

An ideal option would be a universal trimming tool, which will allow you not only to prepare elements such as additional trims, but also to trim trims. A router will be of great help in your work, as you can quickly make holes for locks, hinges or bolts.

Preparing the opening

If you are still wondering how to assemble an interior door with your own hands, the first thing you need to start with is to check how level the wall is relative to the vertical. This is done by measuring the opening along the horizontal axis, and then along the vertical axis. It is best to take measurements in several places. The main goal is to create a gap of about 1.5 cm. It must be taken into account that it must be present on all sides, and the difference in size between the opening and the door should be 2-3 cm.

Scheme of a door frame in a wall opening

There are times when the door leaf slightly does not fit the opening in size. What to do in this case? For example, if the opening is larger, you can narrow it a little by stuffing the required width across the entire area. If the difference is large enough, you can resort to brickwork, that is, fill the extra space with bricks.

You can use another option: make a metal frame and then cover the wall with plasterboard. If we talk about the ideal option, you must first take the necessary measurements, and then purchase the door and install it. This will avoid many such problems.

Box assembly process

Today, there are only three ways to assemble an interior door frame with your own hands: using a tenon joint, fastening beams at angles of 45° and 90°. As for the first option, special spikes are made on adjacent beams. With their help, the connection occurs. The height of the tenons is usually similar to the thickness of the timber.

What is the 45° assembly technology? At the junction of the horizontal and vertical beams, a cut is made on both sides at the specified angle. When determining the length of the bars located vertically, it is necessary to take into account their thickness, the height of the opening itself and the size of the gaps. Their length should be the same.

As for the horizontal beams, you need to add up the thickness of all the beams vertically, the gaps, as well as the width of the door itself. Before cutting, you need to check the measurements several times to see if the calculations were made correctly. Fastening can be done with nails or screws, and they must be screwed in at the same angle of 45°.

If the connection occurs at a right angle, then the element, which is located horizontally, is installed on a vertical beam. This method is one of the simplest, but it involves sawing off the vestibule on vertical beams.

Once the beams are ready, you can assemble the interior door frame with your own hands. All work must be done on as level a surface as possible. When adjusting the bars, it is best to place something under them, such as stools. To connect the structure, you need to screw two screws into the corner joints. You can see how the door frame is assembled correctly in the videos presented.

How to install hinges?

The main thing is to decide on the use of the door: where it will open. Before you start, you will need to purchase the hinges themselves and all the necessary tools. The side of the fabric for inserting loops should be the one that is more massive and does not have any cracks or defects. Features of the insert depend on the type of loops. Standard type interior doors are most often installed with two hinges.

As a rule, they are quite sufficient. When it comes to entrance structures, three loops can be installed here for greater reliability. For optimal load distribution, the third loop is installed slightly above the middle. You can determine the place where you need to install the hinges as follows: measure 20 cm from the bottom and top and make markings. Next, the loop is applied to the marked place on the end of the door and outlined with a pencil, then with a knife.

Now, using a hammer and chisel, you need to cut out a place for the hinges with a depth of about 3-5 mm, otherwise they will either dangle or stick out. In order to get the ideal depth, you need to cut the wood gradually, applying a loop periodically. The final stage is trying on the hinges and marking the places for screwing in the screws. Next, holes are drilled. The hinges are secured with screws.

How to install a frame in an opening?

The block is installed using self-tapping screws. It would be possible, of course, to make fastenings with anchors, but this is not advisable. Most often, to properly secure the structure, 3 fasteners are enough. When assembling an MDF box with your own hands, the fastening elements must be masked with a striker plate for the hinge and lock. Next comes installation into the opening itself. The rack is also secured with self-tapping screws.

The next step is hanging the canvas itself, which needs to be well strengthened. When the door leaf is secured vertically, it becomes motionless. After this, the lock post is attached. On the canvas you need to display the same gap between the crossbar and the racks. It should not be more than 3 mm, otherwise the aesthetics of the door will be compromised.

If, on the contrary, it is made smaller than the specified size, then over time, due to changes in humidity and wear of the hinges, difficulties may most likely arise with closing and opening. In buildings with brick walls, before installing racks, you need to prepare mortgages for self-tapping screws. 4 wooden spacers are installed on each side.

The gap formed during the work can be removed with ordinary mounting foam, but you should be very careful not to stain the coating of the door itself with it. The foam hardens, as a rule, within 3 hours, but the end of the process occurs after a day, when it becomes approximately 3 times larger in volume. When working with it, it is necessary to take into account the mentioned property, since if you “overdo it,” then the elements of the block may suffer.

It is worth noting that assembling a box is a rather complex process that includes certain steps that require special attention. All work must be done step by step to avoid mistakes and disappointments. You can learn how to properly assemble the door frame of an interior door with your own hands from the video.

Popular ways to seal door frames. When purchasing a new door, you should think about how you will cut the door frame. Naturally, you can invite specialists for this, but if you want the maximum, you can always do the installation yourself. Let's look at the specifics of the work in more detail. Installation is a critical stage, since the operation of the door unit as a whole will depend on the correct installation.

Installation requires special attention, since the performance properties of any door depend on this. Let's look at different ways to install the frame, taking into account the configuration of the door block and the material used for production.

In order for the installation of the door block to be completed successfully, everything should be carefully thought out in advance, measured, studied and selected. You should inspect the opening that you plan to close with a facade. In old rooms, the openings and walls are not ideal, and this often occurs even in new buildings. Measurements of the opening must be careful and correct on each side.

Unless you are making a custom door with special dimensions, you should choose a ready-made option that will meet certain standards. When taking measurements, you will be able to understand what to do with the doorway, which should not differ much in size from a regular doorway. For example, if the width of the portal is 0.9 meters, then the door should be 0.8 meters in size. The remaining cm will remain for the door frame and the technological gap that is required.

Once you determine the size of the product, you should choose the door configuration. You can find three types of kits on the racks in construction markets:

The choice of product itself will depend on the buyer. The most difficult and time-consuming installation method is purchasing the first version of doors, since you will need to purchase and assemble all the elements of the block yourself. For this reason, it is worth dwelling on this option in detail. Study the instructions below, and then you will be able to install the door without help.

Box installations: from a to z

It can be assumed that the walls of the doorway are already prepared in advance for installation work, the doors are selected according to the size of the opening. For clarity of the entire process, a separate canvas is shown for the door frame. The installation is carried out in several stages; first you need to prepare all the tools, as well as saw off the excess length of the box slats.

Where to begin

So, you should prepare a place to lay out all the elements. Smooth floors covered with oilcloth or cardboard are ideal for this.

For installation you will need:

Here are all the tools for sawing a door frame at 45 and 90 degrees. Now you should consider step by step how the door will be installed.

Preparing elements

First, you should unpack the door leaf, as well as the elements of the door frame (if they are provided in the basic configuration).
Inspect the product you purchased and ensure that everything is exactly as supplied and without defects. Once installed, the door cannot be returned, even if it is defective.
Put the door panel aside; you will need it a little later.
Lay out the timber for the door frame on the floor surface, and if the parts for the frame were purchased separately, you should adjust them in advance to the size of the door leaf and the opening.

From this you can begin the process of assembling the box. There are several ways to assemble the horizontal and vertical pillars of a door frame, which we will consider below.

Types of assemblies

Assembly into grooves

This method involves connecting elements with a slight overlap. A groove must be made in the vertical strip, which will make it possible to connect the vertical strip with the horizontal one under the front side. For most factory models, this is the assembly option that is provided. You can make a similar groove with your own hands if you plan to make racks from construction timber rather than from MDF blanks.

First you need to take measurements so that you can cut the parts to the required length. Measure the doorway in several places, and then take the smaller result as a basis, and do not forget to leave a gap for the mounting foam. You should also know the size of the door leaf; for this, the gaps should be added for the free movement of the door in the frame. On each side, 0.3 to 0.5 cm will be enough. The basis should be a door leaf with a width of 0.8 meters and a height of 2 meters.

The door frame must comply with the following data:

For doors with thresholds – 0.806*2.006 meters.
Without a threshold, taking into account the large gaps for opening the door - 0.806 * 2.010 meters.

As a rule, doors to the toilet and bathroom are installed with a threshold. For other openings, a threshold is not required to avoid obstructions.

This completes the assembly of the box.

Assembly at an angle of 45 degrees

The second method is to cut the door frame at 45 degrees. This method has slight differences in the cutting of the rack elements.

Measurements should be carried out using the same method as in the above-described version of assembling the box into a groove. The only difference will be the length of the horizontal bar. It should be the entire width, i.e. 0.806 meters, since the edges will be sawn at 45 degrees.
After the timber is cut in the desired direction, you should take the cuts at the required angle. To do this, take a miter box, which will play the role of an excellent template, and if the tool is missing, then you should make the cut by eye.
Connect all the elements using screws, drive them inside at an angle of 45 degrees.
You should check everything again to ensure the dimensions match.

Ready! The method is simple, and in the end the door frame looks very beautiful.

Assembly at 90 degree angle

This method is by far the easiest. It is available for DIY assembly. For self-assembly, it is better suited than the first two options, since it does not require special skills or special tools.

All you have to do is choose any method you like to seal the door frame. Further, the installation process can have two development paths:

Installing only one box into the opening, and then hanging the canvas.
Installation of the entire kit.

Usually the second option is used, since hanging the canvas into the opening after the installation process is difficult and can only be done by experienced craftsmen.

Installation of fittings and door leaf into the frame

Hinges should be screwed to the assembled frame, and they can be completely different, but despite this, the installation process is not much different:

Make markings on the top post, taking into account the opening side of the door leaf. You should retreat 0.2 meters from the top edge and attach the hinge bar to the block. Trace the outline with a pencil, and along it you will make a notch to secure the loops. Similar markings should be made for the bottom loop.
Using a chisel, chisel and hammer, remove excess wood to create the groove you want.
Try on the hinge, if everything is perfect, you can attach it to the seat.
Similar manipulations should be done with the canvas.
After the installation of the hinges is completed, the panel should be laid inside the door frame.
Check for the necessary gaps, place cardboard so that the canvas does not move when installing the block in it.

And now the time has come for the most crucial moment - installing the product in the doorway.

Installing the box in the opening

You still can’t do this without the help of a friend. The installation stage in the box opening is the most difficult, so you need to be careful, patient and attentive. The block with the door is very heavy, and work should be carried out as accurately as possible.

At this point, the installation of the unit is completed, and you can do all the work yourself if you use the described instructions

How much can you save by installing a door yourself?

Not every manufacturer offers to install doors or windows for free, and the price sometimes reaches unprecedented levels. On average, the cost of specialist services varies depending on the price of the product and the complexity of the work. Sometimes it reaches 50% of the block cost. The cheap door itself in the entire set will cost no less than 7,000 rubles, and installation will cost approximately 3,500 rubles. This is the average value for the service of masters, and the price may be higher. For this reason, savings during installation are significant, especially if several doors need to be installed at once.

Types of connections of door frame elements

The entire procedure for manufacturing the frame structure of an interior door consists of connecting individual elements of the frame together into one product, which has the appearance of a closed or open contour, depending on the presence of a threshold. There are three types of connecting box beams:

Tools and materials

Accurate assembly of the door frame requires tools and auxiliary materials. You will need the following:

Tape measure, pencil, masking tape;
A miter box is a device for cutting timber at different angles. Required for baguette connections and preparation of platbands.
Hand saw, drill with wood drills, construction knife;
Hammer – it is necessary for attaching the interior door frame to a brick or concrete wall;
Chisel – will be needed to cut out places in the box for attaching hinges;
Polyurethane foam - necessary to seal the space between the door frame and the opening.
Acrylic paint for wooden surfaces.

Door frame assembly

Most home craftsmen choose a simple assembly scheme, which involves joining the elements of the box at an angle of 90 degrees. To assemble the door frame for ease of work, it is recommended to lay out all the parts of the future structure in one horizontal level. This can be done on a cardboard floor, a couple of tables pushed together, or four stools. Correct assembly of the door frame implies the following order of work:

From all of the above, it is noticeable that assembling a door frame with your own hands is not particularly difficult. A positive work result can always be obtained by following the rules of the exact sequence of actions.