Pinching watermelons is one of the most important agricultural practices and is widely used by both novice gardeners and owners of large melon plantations. Despite the opinion of some summer residents about the inappropriateness of this event, pinching should by no means be neglected, especially since the process itself does not require much labor and can be carried out independently.
Features of growing gourds
Watermelon is a rather heat-loving plant, therefore, in a temperate and sharply continental climate, it can only be grown in a greenhouse. In warmer climatic zones, the culture grows well in open ground and does not require preliminary germination and planting of seedlings. The only condition for planting seeds is warm soil, for warming which grass is often used, which covers the soil. If the cultivation of watermelons is planned to be carried out in greenhouse conditions, a seedling method is recommended, followed by transplanting young plants into a greenhouse.
A greenhouse for watermelons must have a height of at least 2 meters, otherwise the cultivation of full-fledged fruits will become impossible. After the first lashes are formed on the plant, it is recommended to tie the stems to trellises, the height of which depends on the growing season and watermelon variety. Tying usually begins after the shoots reach a meter length and get stronger. You need to plant a crop around the perimeter of the greenhouse, and place the trellises in the form of arches. For greenhouse cultivation, it is recommended to purchase self-pollinating species or provide free access for bees during the daytime. At night, the greenhouse is closed, and if necessary, additionally heated. The simplest heating method is the bottle heating method, which consists in laying hot water bottles along the root zone of plants.
Appropriateness of the procedure
The issue of mandatory pinching worries many. The process itself is to remove the top of the new shoot in order to stop its growth. Prevention of abundant growth of green mass is especially important in greenhouse cultivation. Too dense foliage significantly obscures the greenhouse and prevents the fruits from developing normally. Pinching watermelons is recommended in regions located in northern latitudes. These include almost all territories of central Russia, as well as the Urals and Siberia.
When growing a crop in the south, pinching can indeed be neglected. In addition to preventing excessive shading, pinching promotes the directing of solar energy and nutrients exclusively to the growth and development of the fruit, and not to the growth of the stem and leaves. Based on this, we can conclude that pinching, along with other types of care, is sometimes a necessary and well-founded procedure that contributes to the proper formation of the fetus and obtaining a good harvest.
Work performance technology
After three leaves appear on young shoots, the plant is thinned out, leaving one or two sprouts in each hole. When carrying out thinning, it should be remembered that the main stem of the plant is the basis of the culture, therefore, it requires a particularly careful attitude. This must be taken into account when transplanting seedlings from boxes to a greenhouse or from a greenhouse to open ground. When stepchildren begin to appear on the plant, they should be cut off regularly, especially for greenhouse cultivation. This need is explained by the fact that in many varieties the development of fruits occurs only on the main stem. On the side shoots, the ovaries develop poorly and cannot form a full-fledged crop. Extra leaves are also removed, leaving an average of 6-7 pieces.
This procedure will prevent wasting of nutrients and will promote the appearance of healthy and strong ovaries, which usually form on the 30th day. After the first ovaries appear on the main stem, the upper part of the shoot must be pinned, leaving no more than 3 leaves above it. Lateral shoots with 5 or more leaves are cut off after the second leaf, and barren and without leaves are removed completely. On one shoot, from 2 to 6 strong ovaries are usually left, while weakened and lagging behind in development are immediately removed.
When cutting off the ovaries, one should be guided by climatic conditions and the variety of watermelon. For example, on northern varieties such as "Helen", "Spark" and "Sugar Baby" one or two fruits should be left to escape. While on the southern “Kholodka” and “Nice” - 5-6 each. Above each fruit, 2-3 leaves are left, and those that have grown again are removed. Inspection of bushes with cutting off stepchildren and extra leaves should be done weekly. After the fruits begin to gain in height and weight, pinching should be stopped. This will speed up the ripening of the crop and will improve the taste of watermelons.
Some gardeners experiment and pinch skeletal stems according to the following scheme: the side lashes are left, with the ovaries formed on them, and all the ovaries are completely removed from the main stem. In general, 6 fruits remain on the plant, distributed in two pieces per lash. Thus, each lash is less stressed, being responsible for the growth and development of only two fruits, while the main stem is often forced to "grow" from 4 to 6 watermelons.
It is recommended to form bushes only in dry sunny weather. This requirement is due to the fact that under the influence of sunlight, wounds from cut shoots grow faster. If pruning is carried out in cloudy and rainy weather, then the sections may rot. If the bush could not be formed correctly and too many leaves were removed, it is recommended to pinch the main shoot directly above the top fruit. This will contribute to the growth of new leaves and restore the necessary balance of green mass.
Further care
After young watermelons grow to the size of a walnut, it is recommended to tie them in nets or put glass under each fruit. This will completely eliminate the contact of the watermelon with the ground and prevent possible rotting. As nets for hanging fruits, you can use old stockings, T-shirts and nylon tights. The advantages of hanging are the uniform ripening of watermelons, which is explained by the fact that the sun warms the fruit from all sides. The disadvantages include the need to build strong and massive trellises that can withstand the weight of growing fruits. In addition, improper suspension of the stem of the plant can be damaged. In addition to glass and nets, some summer residents prefer to use plastic coasters, wooden boxes and straw.
Plant nutrition should be done every 10 days. To do this, you can use both ready-made complex fertilizers and mixtures prepared independently. The most affordable remedy is a solution of liquid mullein or chicken manure, diluted with water in proportions of 1: 8 and 1: 20, respectively. During the active growth of the fetus, superphosphate and phosphorus-potassium supplements will be useful.
Plants should not be watered too often, but plentifully. During the flowering of the bushes, watering should be done no more than twice a week, and after the fruit ripens, it should be completely stopped. This is due to the fact that abundant moisture can adversely affect the ripening time and taste of the crop. When growing watermelons in regions with sharp temperature changes and the likelihood of temperatures dropping to 15 degrees, it is recommended to cover the melon with a film or other covering material. Harvesting begins after the appearance of clear signs of ripeness, which can be considered the formation of a pronouncedly bright pattern on the surface of the fruit, the drying of the tips of the lashes and the appearance of a characteristic dull sound heard when the fruit is tapped.
Pinching watermelons significantly reduces the time for full ripening, contributes to a noticeable increase in size and significantly improves the taste of the fruit. Timely implementation of the procedure and proper care will make the cultivation of gourds an easy and interesting activity, ensuring a rich harvest.
For information on whether or not to pinch watermelons, see the next video.
Heat-loving gourds prefer to grow in southern latitudes, where it is hot and dry. But this does not mean at all that such a culture cannot be grown in our area - the main thing is worthy care and attention to plants. And yet - a timely pinch of watermelons so that the set berries are large. Interesting? Then read on!
Do I need to pinch watermelons? Definitely yes! For melons, this procedure is almost identical to pinching other crops. Pinching allows future watermelons to grow larger and sweeter. It is noteworthy that the formation of watermelons is not at all a mandatory procedure if you grow watermelons in a greenhouse. It is necessary if the culture grows in open beds, and even more so in the cold northern regions.
How to pinch a culture
Some farmers believe that pinching watermelons is a procedure that only harms the crop. Actually it is not. If you cut the lashes correctly, then the quality of the future harvest can only be improved. For example, it must be remembered that berries form only on the main stem, and all secondary stepchildren can be safely removed. And then, you should not leave more than 4 ovaries on the plant, otherwise all the berries will be small.
As soon as a sufficient number of fruits have formed, cut the lash so that only a few leaves remain above the ovary. But that's not all. Weekly, the main shoot will produce new lateral tendrils, the removal of which is a mandatory procedure in order for the fruits to grow to the proper size.
Features of pinching the stem
In order not to harm the future harvest, it is important to know how to pinch watermelons correctly:
- it is extremely important not to touch the main stem, removing only stepchildren and side mustaches from watermelons - the general condition of the entire bush depends on it;
- do not leave many ovaries on one bush - each plant can form from 4 to 6 fruits, depending on the varietal variety;
- shoots of watermelon in the open field that do not bear fruit must be pinched immediately;
- pinching watermelons is no longer acceptable if the bushes have begun to actively grow fruits.
Pinching watermelon ovaries
If we talk about how to pinch a watermelon, you should consider all the possible methods often used by gardeners:
- In the first case, it is required to pinch the side shoots of the plant. This method is applicable to all varietal varieties of melons. It is necessary to leave several ovaries on the main shoot, and the lateral ones should be devoid of ovaries. Each of them is pinched so that only a few leaves remain.
- The next method of forming a bush involves the removal of side shoots. The ovaries should be left every 5 leaves and everything superfluous must be mercilessly cut off.
- And the third, most common way - in this case, the side lashes are not removed. It is necessary to wait until the fruits form on the lateral lashes, simultaneously removing all the shoots from the main stem, and no more than 6 fruits are left on the whole plant. On each shoot, no more than 2 ovaries should be left, and the top should be pinched at a height of 3 leaves.
The formation of a watermelon should be carried out on a dry sunny day - then the cut point will dry out quickly and no damage will be done to the plant.
If the weather is wet, rot may develop at the cut point, which will necessarily affect the condition of the bush in an unfavorable way.
To know how to pinch a watermelon correctly, you need to familiarize yourself with some of the features of the process:
- the formation of a watermelon bush involves the preservation of the main stem in order to prevent the death of the plant. How many leaves can be left? No more than 7;
- before shaping your watermelons growing in the open field, check the size of the berries - as soon as they reach a diameter of 10 cm, the plants must be pinched;
- as the plant develops, the shoots should be tied up, otherwise they may break off;
- many farmers debate whether to continue watering and shaping the bush after the berries have formed and grown. The answer is unequivocal: as soon as the fruits have formed, it is impossible to pinch or water the ground around the berries, otherwise their commercial qualities will deteriorate.
So, the scheme for pinching watermelons is quite simple, the main thing is to follow the generally accepted rules and prevent arbitrary growth of the bush. We hope that we have fully answered the question “how to pinch watermelons correctly”, and now the process of growing this melon crop will not be difficult for you. Good luck in the difficult business of growing melons and gourds - it is difficult, but very pleasant and profitable! Just a little effort - and now you are already treating your neighbors with your own grown, sweet and crunchy watermelons, accepting well-deserved compliments to your farming talent. Or maybe you prefer salted berries? You choose!
Video "Formation of watermelons"
In this video you will hear useful tips for shaping watermelons.
Although the weather conditions in our area (Siberia, Altai) are quite severe, I still grow watermelons in the country garden in the open field. The fact is that, despite our very cold winters, as well as the return spring frosts, which last until the second decade of June, usually in summer it is still hot enough for watermelons (and even melons) to grow and fully ripen.
Of course, you have to use early-ripening varieties, such as Twinkle, Sugar Kid etc. It also has a great influence on obtaining a good harvest of melons. proper pruning and shaping plants. I also remove the extra watermelon lashes, and leave only the largest ovary. Watermelons have a very branched root system, it is not without reason that experienced melon growers say that where the lash goes, the roots go there, and besides, they are easily damaged. Therefore, I try to tread less on my mini melon, and keep pruning to a minimum.
There are many descriptions of how to form a watermelon plant, which lashes to pinch and when to remove them, but in order to simplify this whole process, and in order not to understand the intricacies of the main stems, side shoots, etc., I have been spending for many years pruning watermelons is somewhat different.
I grow watermelons in holes, as a rule, one plant at a time(rarely two) in the hole, and due to the lack of space in my small country garden (4 acres), I leave space for each plant approximately three by three meters. Cramped, of course, but enough watermelons.
And pruning plants is very easy.
Firstly, those lashes that, during rapid growth, go beyond the place allotted to watermelons, i'm just pinching at the ends.
Secondly, and this is the most important thing, when the first fruits begin to set on watermelons, then as soon as they reach the size medium-sized apple (5-7 cm), I select and leave on each plant no more than six the largest and healthiest fruits, and no more than two fruits on one lash.
On the left lashes after the last fruit I leave 3-4 leaves, and then I pinch their ends. After that, I carefully cut off all the extra layers with unnecessary ovaries with scissors from the main plant.
By this time, watermelons usually already have time to build up a fairly powerful green mass, and it can be very difficult to remove a cut off lash or layer from melons, because they have already managed to intertwine with antennae with other parts of the plant, therefore, in order not to damage anything necessary, I leave all the cut parts of watermelons right on the barn.
I carry out pruning on a sunny day, the cut off parts of the lashes dry out quickly, and no rot is formed. I cut off and remove from melons in compost I only an unnecessary large ovary of fruits.
The most important thing with such pruning do not rush and work carefully, so as not to mistakenly cut off the whip selected for fruiting, and thereby not lose part of the crop. But the rest - everything is very simple. As a result, each watermelon plant has two or three strands, on each of which, in turn, feel at ease one or two fruits. I follow this pruning scheme, of course, very approximately, depending on how developed the watermelon plant is, and how many lashes and ovaries it has.
But I try to follow the rule so that on one plant ripens at least three and not more than six fruits. I carry out pruning for melons in the same way, but since the fruits of the melon are smaller, I leave them on the lashes up to three ovaries.
Based on experience, this is the most acceptable option for me.
After pruning, watermelon ovaries actively begin to gain weight, and by the end of the season, the fruits fully ripen, and sometimes some of them reach a weight of 8-9 kg. Given the difficult Siberian conditions, this result suits me perfectly.
In order to get a large crop of watermelon in the garden, you need to form bushes. The formation of the plant consists in pruning the side lashes, the watermelon must be pinched and watered abundantly. There are several methods for forming a watermelon bush.
Many gardeners form a watermelon from the first stages of growth. They cut off the side shoots, pinch the main lash so that the berry fills and ripens faster. But this method is very time consuming, so we will analyze a more convenient and productive method.
Forming method "free growing"
At the first stage of growth, watermelon does not need to be pinched. Let the bushes grow and some of the lashes will intertwine. Only when the first fruits are formed the size of a small apple, you will need to start trimming the side lashes. This is due to the fact that at this stage the plant has accumulated enough strength to form six fruits. But, and as with the usual method of growing, two fruits must be left on each lash, the only difference is that you can leave not one lash, but three.
Proper pruning
After the first fruit, it is necessary to cut off the whip on which it grows. Trim the lash so that two large sheets remain on it. Thinning should be carried out carefully, since the lashes are intertwined and you can remove the side shoot, on which several fruits grow.
It is not worth pulling the cut lashes from the total green mass, as there is a risk of damaging the plants and the ovary. Cropped lashes will dry quickly and will not interfere with the growth of melons.
Advantages of this method
With the method of free cultivation, watermelon forms not two, but six fruits, since the plant does not shed a large ovary. Since watermelon bushes are intertwined, the area of \u200b\u200bthe garden should be extensive, but this allows you to grow more fruits on one bush. You can increase the yield four times, but then there is a risk that the fruits will not ripen.
With the usual method of growing, you need to fertilize the plant from the first days of planting. The free growing method allows you to start feeding the plant later.
Growing heat-loving watermelons in your garden, a huge number of questions arise related to the use of various agricultural practices. Not everyone knows why and how to pinch watermelons. Let's consider this question in this article, we'll figure out when it's better to do it right.
Such an exotic berry as a watermelon should grow in warm conditions or greenhouses. To warm the soil, plastic bottles buried in the garden or compacted grass can be used. Planting watermelons should not be thick, and be sure to sprinkle the ground with rotted manure. You should not plant chestnuts on dunghills, it is better to use sandy soil. But the main thing is the care and timely pinching of watermelons. This process, in fact, is the same as the stepsoning of other cultures. It will allow the fruits to ripen faster and become sweeter, juicier. It should be noted that if you are growing watermelons in a greenhouse, pinching can be omitted. It will be mandatory if you live in the northern regions of the country.
How to carry out the procedure correctly
Some believe that pinching can only harm the plant and ruin the crop. But things are quite different. By following certain rules when pinching, you contribute to a rich, large and tasty harvest. Firstly, you need to know that watermelons grow mainly on the main stem, secondary shoots must be removed immediately, otherwise the plant will give them its strength and weaken.
Secondly, only 4 ovaries should be left on the bush, some varieties allow you to grow 5-6 fruits. As the plant grows, you leave a maximum of 5 best leaves on one shoot, cut off the rest. Thirdly, when the first ovaries appear, start processing the lashes. Pinch the upper part of the whip so that a few leaves remain above the last fruit.
From the central bush, as the plant grows, stems will appear, every week you need to inspect and remove the extra ones, otherwise the fruits that you left will not grow in the form of a lack of sufficient food.
Some gardeners cover the ground at the beginning of the bush with bottles of warm water. Remember that with the beginning of the growth of watermelons, we stop the pinching procedure. The plant must gain strength. To enhance the growth of the number of leaves needed for the plant, you can pinch the shoot above the fruit. After such events, your crop of melons will be rich, large and tasty.
Video “Growing watermelon in a greenhouse”
Features of care after
Pollination in watermelons occurs naturally, so bees must be provided for plants in greenhouses. And at high humidity, manually carry out pollination - a male flower. After a month, fruits will appear from such pollination. Female flowers appear in the axil of the leaf on the main shoot, based on the precocity of the variety. Flowers in early varieties will appear in the axils from 4 to 11 leaves, in late varieties from 20 to 25 leaves.
When the watermelons grow the size of a walnut, it is preferable to tie them up in nets or put, for example, glass under each. This way the fruit will not rot from the ground. It is useful to fertilize with complex fertilizer every 10 days. You can use liquid mullein in a ratio of 1:8 or chicken 1:20. During the growth period of the bush, superphosphate is perfect. When the ovary appears, phosphorus-potassium supplementation is necessary.
Despite the long root of the watermelon, which gives it the ability to grow in dry climates, the bushes should be watered sparingly, but plentifully. When flowers appear on the bushes - about 2 times a week. Important: watering when the fruits ripen must be stopped, otherwise the development of the fruits will slow down. If in your climate there are sharp temperature drops below 15 degrees, consider covering the melon with a film.
Do not rush to harvest. Large size is not yet an indicator of ripeness. Signs of ripeness of a watermelon include a particularly bright pattern on the surface of the fruit, a dry tip of the whip, and when tapping a watermelon, a dull sound is heard. From crows and partridges, you can install a scarecrow. In conclusion, I would like to note that the cultivation of watermelons is a rather painstaking and troublesome task only at the beginning of the growth of the bush. Proper care of the plant will allow you to enjoy a juicy and tasty berry.
Many summer residents are trying to find an answer to the question of the advisability of pinching watermelons, because this is not the main agrotechnical measure for caring for the crop in question. As you know, during the growing period, watermelons need watering, adding nutrients to the soil, as well as loosening the topsoil and removing weeds.
It should be noted that the primary task of any gardener is to obtain large yields with high-quality fruits. When growing watermelons, the ultimate goal will be to get large sweet and juicy berries, and pinching bushes will help in this hard work.
The process under consideration is somewhat reminiscent of the removal of lateral shoots from tomatoes or the pinching of other plants. Pinching involves removing the tops of new shoots to stop them from growing, resulting in shading crops when grown in a greenhouse.
It should be noted that pinching watermelons should be carried out only in northern latitudes (central Russia, Siberia, the Urals). After such an operation, two or three ovaries are left, and due to the fact that a limited number of shoots remain on the plant, they develop much faster than under standard conditions. When growing watermelons in film greenhouses, only side shoots are removed, because in most varieties, fruits develop only on the main stem, and the ovary on the remaining processes is not able to form a full-fledged crop.
Conclusion: pinching should be done, but this is true in the middle lane and beyond the Urals. In the southern regions, this is not always appropriate - most varieties of watermelon give abundant harvests of ripe fruits without this procedure.
After pinching the culture, three to six fruits should remain on each watermelon bush, but this depends on the growing region, the rest of the ovary is removed. The procedure should be carried out according to the following scheme: after the formation of 6 leaves on the main shoot, its upper part is removed along the 2nd leaf, as a result, two main shoots will appear in us.
At the next stage of work, the upper part of each of the lashes is pinched, and after the last ovaries, two leaves are left. After the formation of fruits the size of an apple, the weakest of them are removed. The same is done with plants that form an empty flower, they simply need to be removed from the site so as not to interfere with the development of the rest.
When to perform this procedure
During the development of watermelons in a greenhouse, you need to monitor the growth of crops. In the case when plants interfere with each other, it is necessary to remove unnecessary shoots. It should be noted that in most regions of the Russian Federation, melon growers try to put 3-5 fruits on watermelons. Thus, the plant is freed from the load of the crop, and the fruits left grow quickly, becoming large and sweet.
In most cases, in order to enjoy such yummy as, people go to the market or supermarket to get them. However, no one guarantees that the product will not harm your health. It is this fact that makes many think about how to start growing these crops little by little right in their summer cottage or house adjoining area. How is this different from planting and caring for berries such as currants, raspberries or Victoria? If you start doing this, you will understand that it is no more difficult than growing tomatoes.
The soil for growing watermelons and melons should be sandy and well warmed, at least 26 C and protected from strong winds.
Watermelons, as not many people know, come in completely different flavors, shapes, colors and sizes. It is invariable that the taste qualities of self-grown watermelons are always on top. These berries are sown no later than mid-April, especially in those regions where it is very cold, for example, in the Perm region, Yakutia. From germination to planting should take about 20 days. They should have two cotyledons and two complete leaves. Watermelon has different varieties, but not all of them are known to residents of regions remote from the center of Russia, especially in the north. So, for example, there are green watermelons with yellow flesh, on the contrary, yellow watermelons with red flesh, elongated large varieties and even square watermelons bred by the Japanese. So, how to plant, pinch and so that they grow tasty and big?
Growing seedlings of watermelon and melon
Watermelon seeds are soaked and planted in the ground in mid-April at a temperature of 25-30 C.
Soak the seeds, as already mentioned, around mid-April. Although some varieties are described in such a way that they can be sown at the end of April, this only applies to those regions where spring and summer come early enough. In other regions, there may be a shutdown of central heating even before the seeds can be transplanted into open ground. The planting depth of melons should be no more than 1.5 cm, and watermelons - a little deeper, about 2 cm. Germination occurs only at a maintained constant temperature of at least 25-30 degrees.
Growing heat-loving watermelons requires certain agrotechnical knowledge. Not only beginners, but also often already experienced gardeners make mistakes in caring for the crop, which affects the quality and quantity of the crop. In order for the berry to be quite large and sweet, it is necessary to properly care for the bush even in the first stages of its growth. How best and correctly to do this - we will consider further.
Why pinch watermelons?
In truth, this may be the most common question about pinching watermelons. People are very worried about the difficulties that may arise during the cultivation of something. The most interesting thing is that experienced gardeners are confident that growing watermelons correctly is no more difficult than the same cucumbers or tomatoes.
Watermelon is an unusual, exotic berry, and was brought to our region a very long time ago. For growth, he needs either open ground or a good greenhouse with natural conditions.
The process of growing watermelon is characterized by all the same features as with other cultivated plants, but there is one feature - pinching. What is it?
From a technical point of view, this is something like pinching ordinary seedlings, like pepper, tomato, corn, and so on. The task is to make life easier for a fruitful plant, so that the berry ripens faster, gains more juice and sweetness.
It is also interesting that in greenhouse conditions this procedure can be skipped, while in the northern regions of the country pinching is a mandatory procedure when growing watermelon.
After pinching, the plant loses its excess green mass, which under normal conditions only draws additional moisture, which slows down the process of growth and ripening of the fruit.
Usually, after this, up to three ovaries are left, on which future fruits will grow, and excess shoots are removed so as not to create an additional load on the plant.
Pinching seedlings and forming bushes
The growth of watermelon lashes can continue as long as it is warm and there is enough moisture, and many ovaries and side shoots will form. With a short warm season in the regions of the Russian middle zone, they will not be able to ripen or there will be many small and tasteless berries. When growing seedlings, it is necessary to stop the tops of the main stems so that the tops do not grow excessively high and the plant forces are directed to the ripening of berries.
There are three main schemes for the formation of a bush:
· with one whip;
three lashes.
How to pinch watermelons and melons depends on the climatic features of the area and the variety of berries, as well as the method of cultivation: in a greenhouse or open land.
How to form watermelons in open ground also depends on the area of the land plot; for large sizes, they manage with the simplest technologies, for example, stepson tops to limit growth only once when 5-6 sheets appear.
Note! If it is necessary to form a watermelon in open ground, the simplest scheme is used: the lashes are allowed to grow freely, pinching is done only if the lash is extended and has entered the area intended for other plantations.
Pinching watermelons is done when the ovaries of berries appear, all excess leaves are removed.
How to pinch and shape plants in a greenhouse
A watermelon planted in a greenhouse needs to be pinched for a more rational use of the area and for the early ripening of fruits. In addition, indoor plants can be tied to trellises, which is very convenient for caring for them. Some features of pinching depend on this. The plants themselves can be planted thicker, and carried out in 1-2 stems, that is, apply 2 schemes for the formation of watermelons.
Pinching watermelon ovaries
If we talk about how to pinch a watermelon, you should consider all the possible methods often used by gardeners:
- In the first case, it is required to pinch the side shoots of the plant. This method is applicable to all varietal varieties of melons. It is necessary to leave several ovaries on the main shoot, and the lateral ones should be devoid of ovaries. Each of them is pinched so that only a few leaves remain.
- The next method of forming a bush involves the removal of side shoots. The ovaries should be left every 5 leaves and everything superfluous must be mercilessly cut off.
- And the third, most common way - in this case, the side lashes are not removed. It is necessary to wait until the fruits form on the lateral lashes, simultaneously removing all the shoots from the main stem, and no more than 6 fruits are left on the whole plant. On each shoot, no more than 2 ovaries should be left, and the top should be pinched at a height of 3 leaves.
Features of pinching the stem of a watermelon
In order not to harm the future harvest, it is important to know how to pinch watermelons correctly:
- it is extremely important not to touch the main stem, removing only stepchildren and side mustaches from watermelons - the general condition of the entire bush depends on it;
- do not leave many ovaries on one bush - each plant can form from 4 to 6 fruits, depending on the varietal variety;
- shoots of watermelon in the open field that do not bear fruit must be pinched immediately;
- pinching watermelons is no longer acceptable if the bushes have begun to actively grow fruits.
Ways to grow watermelons in open ground
Before you start pinching, you need to choose the right planting method. It depends on the weather and the region where the gourds will be grown. There are several ways. Let's consider them in order. Depending on where the watermelons are planted, their care may differ.
Outdoor cultivation
- It is necessary to fertilize the soil not during the planting process, but in advance, in the autumn period. Usually manure is applied to the soil.
- The basis of successful cultivation is careful handling of the main stem. It is important not to damage or break it. Especially if you are transplanting seedlings from a greenhouse into open ground.
- You need to carefully process stepchildren and remove excess leaves. It is recommended to leave 6 - 7 adult and healthy leaves. Then the plant will spend nutrients only on the development and formation of the berry. Leave the number of ovaries, focusing on a specific variety. The ovary itself is formed on the stem only a month after planting.
- When pinching, leave the healthiest and strongest leaves and shoots. Moreover, the leaves must be left so that the shoots do not fade.
In open ground, plants develop quite well and give a good harvest. It is advisable to choose varieties for planting that pollinate themselves, because it is not very convenient to pollinate bushes on your own. If it is rather cool at night, then it is recommended to cover the landing with a film so that the seedlings do not freeze.
Aftercare after pinching a watermelon
The soil where watermelons grow needs to be fed regularly. Usually, liquid mullein, manure and other types of organic fertilizers are added to the ground. For a good harvest and accelerated fruit ripening, superphosphate with potassium is added to the soil. During dry periods, watering is recommended to be carried out 2 times a week. This will prevent the soil from drying out quickly.
The formation of watermelons is a necessary operation in the complex of works on growing these plants in home gardens. You shouldn't neglect it. Consider how to shape and pinch home-grown watermelons and how to care for them after.
The purpose of pinching watermelons is to grow large, tasty fruits. If you leave the plant as it is, a lot of ovaries can form on it, watermelons will be small, tasteless. Of course, this state of affairs cannot suit any vegetable grower.
The advantage of pinching is also that the fruits on the treated plants grow and ripen faster, more sugar accumulates in them. This is especially important for those regions where summer is short and there is not enough heat. After processing, watermelon plants take up less space, which makes it easier to care for them: it is easier for a vegetable grower to move around the beds, he does not step on leaves and stems, does not crush them, and it also becomes convenient to water. Pinching is carried out on a warm sunny day, in the sun the sections dry out quickly.
How to pinch and shape plants in a greenhouse
A watermelon planted in a greenhouse needs to be pinched for a more rational use of the area and for the early ripening of fruits. In addition, indoor plants can be tied to trellises, which is very convenient for caring for them. Some features of pinching depend on this. The plants themselves can be planted thicker, and carried out in 1-2 stems, that is, apply 2 schemes for the formation of watermelons.
Growing in one stem
This is a simple universal method suitable for the formation of both varietal and hybrid watermelons. In this case, only the central shoot is left, all the side shoots are pinched off. The remaining main stem is directed up the support, twisting it around and tying it with twine. On each such plant, only 2-5 ovaries are left, the rest, if they appear, are removed. The number of ovaries that can be left depends on the region - in the north, 2 pieces will have time to ripen, in the south - almost everything. Empty flowers are also cut off. The top of the central stem, after setting the required number of fruits, is also pinched, retreating 4-5 leaves.
In Siberia, watermelons are grown mainly in this way. But not only do they leave no side shoots, but also the top of the main shoot after 2-3 fruits are tied on it. Thus, it turns out that only 2-3 watermelons can be obtained from each plant. Although this leads to inefficient use of the area, one can hope that the fruits will have time to ripen.
Formation with fruiting on shoots of the 2nd level
This formation scheme suggests that, in addition to the main stem, side shoots with ovaries must also be left on the plant. You need to start the procedure when side shoots are visible.
The number of such shoots on a watermelon in a polycarbonate greenhouse is from 1 to 3 pcs. (a couple of the lowest ones are removed). On each of them leave 1-2 ovaries. After the fruit has set, you need to leave 5 leaves, then pinch the top. All non-fruitful shoots extending from the stem, if fruits do not appear on them up to 6-7 leaves, are also removed. This is a more time-consuming method, since you need to monitor the growing shoots and not skip them. You need to pinch off the tops of the shoots only after you are convinced that the ovaries are growing: often fruits no larger than a walnut turn out to be unfertilized, dry out and fall off.
Formation in open ground
On the beds, the plants are not tied up, but grown in a horizontal position, grown. You can pinch watermelons growing in open ground in the same way as in a greenhouse. Which one is suitable depends on the region, locality and variety. If there are seeds of several varieties available, then you can try to form them in different ways.
According to this method of forming watermelons in the open field, they are first allowed to grow freely, pinching off only the ends of those shoots that extend beyond the edges of the rows. They begin to form when the ovaries become the size of an apple, leaving no more than 6 of the largest and healthiest fruits on the plant, but no more than 2 on one lash. After each of them, 5 leaves recede and pinch the tops. Other ovaries, if any, are removed, non-fruiting lashes too.
How to properly care for a plant after pinching
After the main event for the formation of watermelon, you need to inspect the melon every week and remove new shoots that have begun to grow from the main stem. Extra flowers, after the required number of fruits are tied, are also cut off, both female and male. It is necessary to pinch the shoots in sunny and dry weather; in rainy weather, parts of the shoots lying on damp ground may rot.
Watermelon plants need moisture to grow their fruits, so they need to be watered, especially in the heat. There will be no sufficient irrigation and there will be no harvest. When the watermelons have formed, almost reached the required size, you need to stop watering, otherwise they will begin to burst. A plank or piece of plastic is placed under each fruit so that they do not just lie on the ground. In the greenhouse, they are pulled into special plastic nets and tied to supports.
It is most correct to pinch watermelons not by hand, but by cutting the shoots with scissors or secateurs. The cut will be even and will tighten faster. In addition, due to the use of scissors, the risk of injuring the roots is minimized, which can be done if the shoot is carelessly pulled when pinching. All plant residues after work must be demolished in a compost heap if they are clean, not infected with any diseases and pests. Or dry and burn.