To transport bricks and other building materials, flatbed vehicles or dump trucks are most often used. The most common model is considered to be an onboard gazelle with a lifting capacity of 1.5 tons; it accounts for 70% of all such work.
Basic information when loading and transporting bricks:
1. 5-tonic is capable of taking on board up to 1250 bricks.
2. ZIL takes about 800 bricks.
3. When transporting bricks in gazelles, the optimal number is 400 units.
4. To load and unload 500 bricks or more, four loaders are used. This staffing allows for maximum productivity and speed, thereby eliminating crowding and downtime.
How to avoid injuries when transporting construction materials:
When loading bricks manually, the optimal quantity is considered to be transferring 6 bricks in one move. Our experience shows that such a portable amount can reduce the likelihood of a fight by almost half.
The use of work gloves is mandatory, as the brick has a rough surface and easily chafes the skin on the thumbs.
When loading a large volume of brick, it can be doused with water beforehand to prevent the appearance of dust, which is harmful to humans.
Workers loading bricks must wear a hard apron, otherwise the foot resting on the body often breaks the skin.
When loading bricks onto a standard pallet, do not load more than 275 bricks. Only one pallet can be loaded onto a bot gazelle.
The cost of transporting bricks and other building materials depends on the region; check with the dispatcher on the “contacts” page for exact information.
Equipment for loading and transferring bricks:
An ordinary person can carry 4-6 units in his hands, while there is a possibility of a fight when dropping, additional time is spent picking up bricks and folding them after dropping. For small volumes of transferred material this is not important, but when it comes to mass work, without special devices not enough. Below are the main inventions that make it easier to carry and load during transportation of building materials.
Brick carrying paw:
This device will significantly increase the speed of work and reduce the time for laying bricks, because it does not need to be dumped, but can be carefully placed in the required place. And at the same time, the bricks will be laid immediately in a row. You can take up to 8 bricks in one hand at a time. It is clear that this is the limit, but one loader can move 8–10 bricks without much difficulty.
The device consists of a longitudinal bar and two clamping plates called paws. One leg is fixed to the bar with a screw, the other is hinged, i.e. she is mobile. The first plate has a handle. The distance between the plates is 560 mm, which allows you to take 7-8 bricks. This device is suitable for transporting other items - small blocks, cinder blocks, slabs, etc.
When transporting bricks, when the speed of loading vehicles is important, such a device reduces the cost of loaders by half.
Goat for transporting bricks:
Enough interesting device for carrying bricks, there is a “goat” device. Its advantage is the ability to place a number of bricks immediately on the board, in any required place. In other words, when the mason moves during the laying process, a certain amount of brick is brought to the desired place, and left there without additional laying. The invention was made and patented during the USSR.
Stretchers for one worker:
Consists of a handle, a support, and a central rod. Side bases made of rod or thick wire are screwed or welded to the handle, which is made of a pipe. The rods located on the side are welded to the base, which will then serve as a place for laying bricks. When transporting bricks, the handle is moved towards the mason, and then he can use the brought material without any problems.
Wooden stretcher:
The simplest device for carrying building materials. Used since time immemorial. Easy to use. It can be easily made from available materials at any construction site. The advantage is the uniform load on two loaders, thanks to which they can take 15 - 20 bricks at a time. Loading and unloading is done manually, which increases the time spent on work. Perfect option, which does not require financial investments.
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Carrying glass
Bringing a large glass or mirror home is not such an easy task. A piece of rope tied around the glass and a pair of mittens will make this operation simple and safe.
Carrying large sheets plywood or glass
To carry large sheets of plywood, glass or thin iron at home, it is convenient to use a wire holder with three hooks.
Device for carrying bricks and other building materials
How many bricks can you bring in your hands? Three or four pieces, you say. Indeed, it is inconvenient to take more, because then you no longer have to fold them, but “dump them,” which, firstly, spoils them, and secondly, requires additional time for installation.
The use of the device shown in the figure will significantly increase labor productivity in this type of work. This is a longitudinal bar and two clamping plates, one of which is hinged on the bar, and the second is fixed with a screw. A carrying handle is welded to the first plate. The maximum distance between the plates is 555 mm, which allows you to grip up to eight standard bricks.
Thus, one person can carry 16 bricks at once in both hands. Moreover, it is enough to place this “brick transport” on the ground, and the load is released from the clamping paws and turns out to be evenly laid in in the right place. By the way, this device can also carry other objects - concrete blocks, plates, etc.
Measuring device internal diameter pipes
Among the tools and devices for measuring the internal diameter of pipes and other cylindrical bodies, this is perhaps the simplest.
From plywood, plastic or metal, cut out an isosceles triangle with a handle hole. On its sides, at the same distance from the vertex, draw marks, placing next to each a number corresponding to the distance between the sides of the triangle at a given point.
It is enough to push the device with its tip into the pipe being measured until it stops - and the number at this point will show the internal diameter.
Pipe diameter measurement
To quickly determine the internal diameter of pipes, it is useful to acquire a measuring template. Cut from sheet metal or plastic square with handle. Measure the distance between the two sides of the angle and mark the values on the square.
Measurements in inaccessible places
To determine the size of the cavity inside the part, it is enough to have on hand a caliper and a caliper with metal pegs glued to its legs cylindrical. Insert the legs of the calipers into the cavity, spread them as far as possible so that the ends of the legs touch the walls of the cavity, and use a micrometer or caliper to record the position of the pins relative to each other. Then take out the calipers, put the pegs back in the locked position and measure the distance between the ends of the legs.
Measuring hard-to-reach objects
A centimeter attached to wooden plank, it is convenient to measure hard-to-reach objects, for example, the depth of a hole (without going down to its bottom), the height of a wall (without using a stepladder) and others.
Measurements without a ruler
Remembering that the length matchbox- 5 centimeters, you can quite successfully measure the length of a wire or wire without a ruler.
Hacksaw-square
With a little extra work, a wood hacksaw can also serve as a square for marking. Two blocks are riveted to the canvas near the handle so that the handle, supplemented with bars, makes an angle of 90 degrees with the back side of the canvas.
Ruler saw
A saw with centimeter divisions printed on the blade is convenient for work. Notches can be made with a chisel or a triangular file.
Shovel marking
If you apply markings in the form of colored rings 10 centimeters long on the handle of a shovel, then such a shovel will be very convenient for taking measurements when planting trees and other work in the garden.
Marking square
A carpenter's square can serve great tool for marking. To do this, it is enough to mark it and drill small holes against them at intervals of 5 millimeters.
Smooth horizontal line
A simple device will help you draw an even horizontal line on the wall (see picture). The wheel resting on the ceiling sets the distance, the plumb line ensures that the line is horizontal.
How to check the accuracy of a building level
To check accuracy and adjust if necessary building level, you don’t need to have a perfect horizontal surface. Place it on a flat surface and mark the position of the air bubble. Then rotate the tool 180° around the vertical axis. If the level is accurate, the bubble will deflect to the side that is higher by exactly the same amount.
Horizontal foundation level
When constructing a foundation, you can maintain a level level using a plumb line and a right triangle with sides of sufficient length. At the corner of the formwork, one leg is fixed along a plumb line, and a cord is pulled along the second leg. It will show the horizontal line of the foundation.
In everyday life, quite often it is necessary to determine the horizontality of a particular surface. This is usually done with a spirit level. However, when it is not at hand, you can make a device in a few minutes that served our distant ancestors regularly. It consists of two mutually perpendicular strips. A straight line is drawn in the middle of the vertical bar from top to bottom. At the top, at the beginning of this line, a nail is driven in, on which a plumb line is attached. When making such a plumb line, you should take into account that the longer the horizontal bar, the more accurate your device will work.
Homemade plumb line
I urgently needed a plumb line, but, as always, it wasn’t at home. You can, of course, get out of the situation with the help of a nut suspended on a thread. But if you need to more accurately determine the desired point, take a narrow empty medicine tube and fill it fine salt(sand or water). Then pierce the center of the cork and pass a thread through the puncture, tying a knot at the bottom under the cork. Plug the test tube with a stopper and you will get an excellent plumb line.
Plumb in the wind
A plumb line is a useful thing. If you need to put up a fence, dig a post, draw a straight vertical line, you cannot do without a plumb line. But working with a plumb line in the wind is inconvenient: the plumb line sways. How to calm the plumb line? To do this, you need to lower the weight into a jar of water, and then no wind will interfere with you.
Safety stretcher
Door clamps installed on the handles of a wheelbarrow or stretcher will reliably protect the worker’s hands from damage.
Improvement of the trowel
If you weld a strip of metal to a trowel, you will get a “scoop” trowel, in good value this word. They can scoop up more mortar; it will not be lost when cleaning the masonry joints. The strength of the connection between the handle and the spatula will increase significantly.
Cement sieve
If you don’t have a fine sieve at hand, it doesn’t matter. Take a wide one tin can and cut out the bottom. Pull a nylon stocking on one side and secure it around the circumference of the jar with wire or a tight elastic band. The sieve is ready, you can strain or sift cement, chalk, paint - whatever you need.
Cement mortar fork
Cooking cement mortar, it is much more convenient to mix it not with a shovel, as is usually done, but with a four-pronged garden fork or hoe. The work is much easier and faster, and most importantly, the mixture is more homogeneous.
Clamp made of two clamps
Don’t rack your brains over the question of how to securely clamp a newly glued part of an “inconvenient” shape. Two clamps, arranged as shown in the figure, perfectly solve this seemingly insoluble problem.
Clamp improvement
This simple operation greatly expands the capabilities of the clamp. And if you need to return the clamp to its original state, you just need to unscrew the nuts, remove the bolts from their sockets, move the clamp halves and, inserting the bolts into the holes of the iron strip and the corresponding holes in the clamp, screw the nuts back on.
Handle for chisel
IN in capable hands a piece of rubber hose easily turns into a chisel handle. Wooden plugs securely hold the tool in the hose, and the handle itself not only makes the work easier, but also protects against the possibility of hitting yourself on the hand with a hammer falling off the head of the chisel.
Attaching to uneven surfaces
It is not so easy to nail a beam to an uneven surface, for example, to the wall of a log house so that the surfaces of the beam and logs touch tightly, without gaps. The work will be easier if you use a simple copier. Sharpen the end of the ruler and drill several holes in it. By attaching wooden beam to the surface with which it must mate, markings can be made and the timber can be precisely processed.
Being increasingly popular in the construction of walls, the advantages of speed and ease of masonry with this choice are not least important. After all, relatively small specific gravity aerated concrete allows the production of blocks in significantly larger sizes than ordinary brick.
With the weight of a private aerated concrete block from 30 kg it is quite capable of being lifted and carried by any healthy man. More information about the weight of blocks can be found in. But when you have to carry more than a dozen of these blocks during a working day, even the most zealous worker’s back will quickly ask for rest.
Using a special gripper, blocks can be not only carry, but also arrange for installation at the workplace, and in the production of masonry - raise to the ranks(as far as the length of the levers allows).
There are two types of grippers for aerated concrete:
- transverse - for holding and rearranging the block by one person with two hands at once, and when carrying, possibly with one;
- longitudinal - for crimping and carrying material together - structures of larger sizes, used for carrying several blocks or large-sized aerated concrete at once.
Before choosing a tool, be sure to decide on.
Work principles
The action of the tool is as follows: a pair of symmetrical levers are connected like scissors through a bolted fastening; their upper ends, when brought together, transmit force to the lower ends of the levers, which grip the ribs of the block on both sides. Under the influence of gravity (the block’s own weight), the compression of aerated concrete increases, and the grip strength allows you to carry bricks, as if in tongs, as well as rearrange and even lift them to a height.
With longer levers, or when connecting two parallel identical “scissor pliers” with a transverse handle, two people can move several blocks at once. The length of the acting (upper) and working (lower) levers varies depending on the purpose of the tool.
IN individual construction Standard rectangular blocks are mainly used, and accordingly, rectangular gripper designs are in main demand. 
Buy or make it yourself?
Available for sale grips industrial production, coated with a special anti-corrosion coating. These are transverse structures of three types: for blocks with dimensions of 250x300 mm, 350x400 mm and 450x500 mm. The longitudinal design is available only for a grip size of 600x650 mm.
The cost of such devices is from 1500 rubles. But they can’t always be found on sale, and construction is often under pressure. Or do you need other tool sizes? Well, it’s no secret that during construction every ruble counts, which is constantly invested in the purchase of materials, and you can make a simple design of the device yourself.
All you need for this is: an ordinary metal strip, several pairs of nuts and screws and desire. A skillful hands and there are always tools at a construction site.
How to make it yourself
If you decide to hand made this construction device, check what you have in stock and what you will have to buy in addition (based on a brick 400 mm long):
- steel plate (width from 30 to 50 mm, thickness 3 mm and length 400 mm) - 2 pcs.; plus the same plate for manual grip (345 mm long);
- bolts 5x16 - 7 pcs.;
- nuts and locknuts - 7 pairs.
You will also need a drill, drills (No. 6, No. 8), a hacksaw or grinder and wrenches.
Everything is? Then let's start:
- On the plates at a distance of 167 mm from the edge we cut transverse slots in order to bend future levers in this place. After assembling the slots, weld them.
- On the long side, 33 mm from the slots drill holes on the arms with a diameter of 6 mm- there will be a central axis of their rotation.
- At the drilled place we connect the levers with a bolt. Do not tighten the nut all the way, and use the lock nut to stop the thread! This is for free rotation and to avoid unwinding. We connect the remaining fasteners in the same way.
- Now it’s time to make a grip for the hands, also from a plate. To mark the holes, we apply the plate to the upper separated ends of the levers. In the places of the crosshairs on the future handle we mark the locations of the holes for the bolts (6 mm in diameter).
- Using a No. 8 drill, we make several holes in a row at the upper ends of the arms to obtain longitudinal slots measuring (16x8) mm. They are necessary for freedom of sliding of the connecting bolts and change the size of the grip when crimping/releasing the block.
- We weld a corner No. 40 perpendicularly to each lower end of the arms- these will be the “pincers” of the capture. Their length is taken according to the width aerated concrete bricks(from 100 to 150 mm). For a more precise fit, the corners need to be placed one by one on the edges of the block (on the sides of the future clamp), attach the lower ends of the “scissors” to them and immediately weld them in place.
For ease of use of the tool, it is advisable to put a piece of thick hose, rubber tube on the handle, or wrap the handle with linoleum.
Now, when lowering the device onto aerated concrete, the corners wrap around it on both sides. When lifted by the handle, under the influence of the weight of the block, the crimping is intensified many times over, as in pliers. And if you can do without this device, then the higher you need to raise the gas silicate, the more you will feel the lack of grip at the construction site.
To avoid the formation of chips on the surface of aerated concrete, as well as to enhance adhesion, it is advisable to glue strips of rubber to the working planes of the corners.
There are other modifications invented folk craftsmen, but the principle of operation of the tool remains the same. We looked at one of the most common and affordable options.
And yet you can do without this device, only the work will be harder. The same cannot be said about the need for something else.
Useful video
To help craftsmen, I offer a clear guide to making this device. Try it.