A device for sharpening drills at home. Device for self-sharpening drills Devices for sharpening drills

The main task of any drill sharpening device is to maintain the exact angle of inclination of its cutting edge to the plane of the grinding wheel. always along the rear surfaces and the bridge (see figure below), as a result of which a cutting edge and bridge are formed, which plays an important role in the initial cutting into the material. Between themselves, the cutting edges form a main angle, the value of which during sharpening is selected depending on the material of the workpiece. For drills for metals of the steel group, it is equal to 116÷118º. The rear surfaces must be strictly symmetrical and inclined towards the cutting edge to reduce friction. If you have certain skills and a good sharpening machine, you can sharpen a drill with high quality manually, controlling the sharpening angles using special measuring templates. For those who are not confident in their qualifications, it is better to perform such operations using a sharpening device, which you can make yourself or purchase in a store. The simplest drill sharpener to make is a rectangular piece of wood with a hole of the required diameter and an end beveled at the required sharpening angle.

Devices for sharpening drills are divided into two main types: with adjustable parameters (diameter, sharpening angle, reverse angle, etc.) and with a fixed set of diameters and non-adjustable sharpening characteristics. The former are essentially full-fledged semi-professional devices for. They are made of metal, screw-fastened to the workbench and are designed for sharpening drills of both small and large diameters. The latter, as a rule, have a plastic body with a small cup-type sharpening stone and a jig with holes for certain diameters.

The first type in Russian stores is represented by a device for sharpening drills from the British company Draper Tools and its twins (see photo below).

This device is designed to work with drills with a diameter of 3 to 19 mm with the following fixed sharpening angle settings (1/2 main angle):

88º - hard and thin-sheet materials;
68º - thin drills for large volumes of work;
59º - universal use;
49º - plastic, wood, lead, copper, light alloys;
41º - countersink.

In addition to Drapper, there are two complete copies of it on the Russian market: sharpening devices Riss 8100v and Craftsmann 9-6677. Judging by the appearance and reviews, the workmanship of the first is somewhat inferior to Drapper and Craftsmann.

Sharpening devices with a set of fixed holes for certain drill diameters are externally somewhat different from each other, but in principle they are designed the same. Their sharpening angle is ensured by tilting the side surface of a small cup disk, and the drill is fed by lightly pressing the end of the shank. Structurally, such devices are an attachment for a drill, they look very similar and cost about 700 rubles. (Sparta, KWB and others). The BOSCH S41 sharpening device stands out from this series. With the same design solution, its price is about 4,700 rubles. In the photo below: Sparta nozzle 912395.

All these devices allow you to only edit the cutting edge with more or less accurate adherence to the main and rear angles. It is very difficult to sharpen a broken or rounded drill on them efficiently. In addition to them, the Aliexpress trading platform offers plastic attachments and other designs, whose functionality raises certain doubts (see photo below).

Most manufacturers of such sharpening devices do not indicate the recommended rotation speed. Therefore, the determination of this important parameter remains up to the user.

3 simple devices for sharpening drills with your own hands

When making a device for sharpening drills with your own hands, it is necessary that they ensure (or facilitate) the following conditions:

correct inclination of the cutting edge and back surface;
symmetry of the rear surfaces;
equality of the cutting edges, ensuring that the center of the cutting part coincides with the axis of the drill.

For home and garage work, high accuracy of these indicators is not at all necessary. Nevertheless, it is necessary to strive for it as much as possible, since significant deviations from the norm affect productivity, geometric accuracy of holes and thermal conditions of drilling. Moreover, even the simplest device, which is a corner fixed at an angle of 60º on a tool rest, can significantly facilitate the sharpening process and improve its quality.

It is best to check the main angle of a sharpened drill using a template, which you can make yourself from scrap materials.

Door hinge device

In one of the most popular videos by number of views (more than 700 thousand per year) dedicated to homemade devices for sharpening drills (see below), the author presents his device, designed using a door hinge. He uses a piece of metal corner as a guide. The hinge mechanism of the door hinge is used to feed the drill for sharpening from top to bottom, although it is usually sharpened from bottom to top with a rounding towards the cutting edge. As a result, its back surfaces are completely flat, i.e. the tool will definitely overheat when drilling. In addition, for some reason he sharpens the main angle to 60º, and then drills three-millimeter metal (the result is appropriate).

Reviews to his videos are overwhelmingly negative, for obvious reasons. In addition, when working, the author grossly violates safety regulations. Firstly, the abrasive stone on his grinding machine does not have a protective cover, and secondly, he wears gloves when drilling. In principle, its adaptation only ensures the precise orientation of the drill. And his chosen use of the door hinge mechanism leads to improper sharpening of the rear surfaces.

Nut drill sharpeners take advantage of the fact that the angle between the edges of the nut is exactly 120º, which corresponds to the universal sharpening angle. The stops on which the drill is placed in such equipment are two V-shaped grooves cut in opposite corners of the nut (see photo below). In this case, the side edges during sharpening act as guides when in contact with the abrasive wheel.

The design of the clamp in different versions of this equipment is somewhat different. In the photo this is an additional nut, bolt and elastic washer, and in some devices the drill is simply pressed with a bolt or even by hand. During the sharpening process, the operator first touches the grinding wheel with one edge of the nut, and then turns the device over and does the same with the adjacent edge. Since the nut is a regular hexagon, the angle between its faces is exactly 120º, so it will be the same between the back surfaces of the tool being sharpened.

It is difficult to say how viable such a design is. After all, the metal of the nut is much softer than the metal of the tool being sharpened, and when sharpening, the operator will definitely touch the sharpening stone with it and thus grind off its edges. Moreover, he needs to slightly tilt the equipment to obtain the reverse angle of the cutting edge of the drill. The main criticism of this original method lies precisely in this fact. Many people express the opinion that it can be used only a few times, and this is inadequate for the labor intensity of production. How to make such a nut device is shown in the video below.

Device for sharpening drills on an angle grinder

Using a grinder with a cutting (or grinding) wheel made of reinforced bakelite is clearly not the best solution for sharpening drills. Firstly, all angle grinders have very high speeds, which is due to the peculiarities of the operation of cutting wheels. Therefore, when using them for sharpening without a rotation speed controller, overheating and burning or loosening of the cutting edge will occur. Secondly, purely technically, on reinforced discs, sharpening operations are possible only on the side surface of the wheel, and turning it towards the operator when the grinder is turned on is strictly prohibited according to safety requirements. And finally, the most important thing. Structurally, the cutting disc consists of layers of fiberglass reinforcing mesh, which ensures its strength, and an abrasive filler in the form of a mixture of bakelite resin and corundum powder. When sharpening on the side surface, the upper reinforcing mesh is destroyed, as a result of which the disc can simply fly apart into pieces. Of course, a one-time drill adjustment done at your own risk will not damage the cutting wheel, but using it for these purposes on an ongoing basis is very dangerous.

A video is quite popular on the Internet (about 700 thousand views in 2 years), the author of which demonstrates a self-made drill sharpener using a grinder (see photo below).

The result is a device that is quite difficult to make on your own, which is attached with a clamp to the casing of the angle grinder. The main sharpening angle in it is set by a rigidly fixed guide from the corner, and the slope of the trailing edge is fixed manually. It seems that the author of this homemade device is doing something wrong during the work process, since the sharpening of the drill is poor. This is clearly visible when he drills ordinary three-millimeter steel with force and the addition of oil. Perhaps the back surface did not work out, or the metal of the cutting edge came loose due to high speeds. In the comments, the author is praised for his engineering approach, but in many ways the reviews are negative for the reasons stated above. In addition, the cutting wheel is not installed correctly (back side up).

All drill attachments for sharpening drills (with the exception of very exotic homemade products) have the same design, differing from model to model in minor details. They appeared on the market relatively recently, and in our country the description and assembly drawing of such a device, intended for its independent production, were first published in the magazine “Modelist-Constructor” (see below).

Here the nozzle body (4) is made of a piece of metal pipe. A jig (1) with holes corresponding to the diameters of the drills being sharpened is inserted into its upper end and secured with a screw (2). Before starting work, the housing is attached to the drill neck (7) using a bushing (5) and a screw (6). For sharpening, the drill is inserted into the corresponding hole in the jig, having previously oriented the cutting edge along the mark towards the axis of rotation. Then lightly press it with your hand, pressing it against the surface of the grinding wheel for several seconds. After this, take it out, turn it 180º and sharpen the opposite edge in the same way.

The most difficult thing to make yourself in this device is the grinding stone, because to sharpen a drill to 120º, the inclination of its upper plane must be strictly 30º. The magazine recommends shaping it into the desired shape on a lathe using a special tool (probably a diamond pencil for dressing abrasive wheels). Such an operation is hardly possible in a home workshop, and ordering a sharpening stone from outside will certainly not be cheap. In addition, almost the same factory-made nozzles are sold at a price of about 700 rubles. Their only difference from the sharpening device shown in the drawing is the shape, which has the shape of a cup, and therefore the drill is sharpened by its inner surface.

DIY drill sharpening machine

Any sharpening machine consists of two basic components: an electric motor with an abrasive wheel and a device for fixing and feeding the drill for sharpening. If you have an electric sharpener in your workshop, there is no need to construct a separate machine for sharpening drills; it is enough to make good sharpening equipment with your own hands, which can be installed near the grinding wheel. On the Internet you can find quite a lot of videos in which the authors present their devices for sharpening drills, which are not always easy to manufacture, and sometimes are simply unsuccessful.

Almost all of them reliably provide a main angle of 120º, but only a few correctly form the slope of the back surface and the cutting edge, which, according to science, should look like in the figure below.

The figure shows that the transition from the cutting edge to the rear surface can be made either along a broken line (on the right) or along an arc (on the left). In practice, the cutting edge is often sharpened in line with the back surface (this is implemented in many homemade devices). This is also a workable option, but in this case the drill will wear out faster.

One of the most successful is the design of the author of the video (see below), who identifies himself as Anton Fomenko. Its device is easy to manufacture and allows you to obtain a rounded (relief) surface of the trailing edge with good accuracy. Reviews about his work are overwhelmingly positive, in addition, the author attaches a drawing of this device to his video, which can now often be found on specialized sites.

It should be noted that his product largely repeats the classic design of a sharpening device for drills, implemented in a product from Draper (see above).

As a drawback that is not related to the design of the equipment, we can note that the grinding wheel is too grainy and lacks a protective casing.

Another very successful sharpening equipment is the work of the author of the channel “Samodelkin Ivan”, which gained more than a million views in nine months and received many positive reviews. Here, sharpening the back surface and cutting edge of the drill is also carried out according to science, but at the same time their broken joint is realized (right picture above). His device looks rough and looks more like a working prototype (untreated surfaces, clamping with bolts instead of wings, etc.), but it does its job perfectly. At the end of the video, the author drills into six-millimeter metal with a newly sharpened drill. Drilling goes quickly, large chips curl evenly on both sides, and the hole turns out smooth.

The first author sharpens on the peripheral (end) part of the wheel, which is more correct, since this part of the wheel can be easily corrected with uneven wear. The second sharpens drills with the side surface, which is not recommended for large volumes of work.

In all factory-made and home-made devices for sharpening drills that we have encountered, the transition from one surface to be sharpened to another (with a rotation of 180º) is done manually. That is, the exact positioning of the second surface depends entirely on the operator’s eye. Although, probably, there is equipment where this rotation is mechanized. If you know anything about such devices, please share the information in the comments.

Working with a good tool is convenient, effective and correct! Today we have a useful homemade product for the home and garage - a homemade drill sharpening machine. Correctly sharpening a drill presents some difficulties without experience. Moreover, drills of large diameters (somewhere from 6mm) can still be controlled by sharpening and, at the very least, they can be sharpened after some time. Drills of small diameters, especially in demand by masters of radio and electronic equipment, have to be sharpened literally by touch and under a magnifying glass and without the use of mechanization using corundum blocks. By the way, just recently we published the article “If you haven’t read it, be sure to read it!

Using my deposits of illiquid assets and conducting a review of the Internet, I whipped up a simple device that allowed me to sharpen drills from 2.0 to 6.0 mm without much difficulty. Further improvement of the device is possible and is a task for the near future. General view in photos 1 and 2.

As, of course, it is known that metal drills have a sharpening angle at the tip of 120 degrees. (Less for wood and soft metal). The photo shows a yellow square lying between the sharpener and the device, ensuring this angle, i.e. the drill is located at an angle of 60 degrees. to the working end of the abrasive disc. The required angle of the drill head is ensured by the initial inclination of the drill relative to the disk.

The operating principle of the device is not new and has been repeated many times and published online. The difference between this device is the use of so-called jewelry vises, which are commercially available and inexpensive, to secure the drill. I had some very old ones, altered and worn out after 30 years of use. Photo taken from the network.

The principle of operation is simple - by turning the handle we move the jaws apart and by turning them in reverse we clamp something, for example a drill.

These vises have been modified. The rivets were drilled out and plates were installed into these seats and re-riveted with longer rivets. It will become clear later why this was done.

The drill is clamped in a vise so that the cutting edges lie parallel to the jaws.

Along the edges of the riveted plates, coaxial holes are drilled at the same distance from the center and lying on a straight line perpendicular to the axis of the vise (that is, to the drill). An axis will pass through these holes on which this “rocking chair” will swing alternately when sharpening one and the other edge. With ideal marking of the rocker, equality of the cutting edges will be achieved during sharpening.

The rocking chair is mounted on racks (the housings of mortise door latches without internals are suitable. In turn, the racks are screwed to an oak block. It also contains four support legs for adjusting the desired height.

The rocker with the drill is placed between the posts on an axle; the axle is removable.

Sharpening the first edge (jaws are painted over with a blue marker).

The sharpening of the second rocking edge is turned 180 degrees. (the painted side is not visible). Top view of this node.

The finished drill is pictured below. Errors that arose when working “on the knee” and old worn-out vices did not allow sharpening drills from 1 mm. Shown here is a sharpened 1.5mm drill bit. At high magnification, the difference in the lengths of the cutting edges is visible (small, but there)

To quickly and efficiently drill holes, you need sharp drills, which tend to become dull over time. This tool is best sharpened by a drill sharpening machine. You can also use special devices at home.

1

A drill sharpening machine is a highly specialized automated equipment designed only for sharpening drills. Depending on the area of use, the following types of devices are distinguished:

Industrial – have greater power; they can be used to sharpen various drills with a diameter of 20 mm or more. The main purpose of such equipment is intensive work at large enterprises with a high degree of specialized specialization. In industrial equipment, the drill is sharpened in a fully or partially automatic mode at the desired angle using a fastening unit (special clamp).
Household - used exclusively in small industries or at home. The design of these machines is characterized by low power, compactness and mobility. They can be used to sharpen medium and small sized drills, which are most often used in everyday life.

A household machine for sharpening drills has a lot of important advantages over all other devices and devices used to restore the sharpness of a tool, among which the following are worth noting first of all:

operates from an electrical network with standard voltage;
high degree of productivity;
ease of operation;
high level of sharpening accuracy and functionality;
affordable price, within the acceptable limits of the capabilities of any home craftsman;
has a light weight and compact size;
a convenient ergonomic control system provides regulation of the speed and intensity of sharpening.

2

All household machines are designed for sharpening high-speed steel of a certain diameter range of equipment that is structurally incorporated into the device. On many machines, you can sharpen tools equipped with carbide inserts - for this, a diamond wheel is supplied or additionally purchased. Typically, their capabilities include sharpening drills with a cone angle at the apex in the range of 90–140° along the back surface with backing and sharpening of the cutting transverse edge. But specialized modifications for metal drills are also produced:

left;
with a two-plane backing;
high-performance;
three-pronged;
others.

The most convenient for home use are machines with a universal chuck for clamping drills of various diameters within the technically acceptable range of sizes, as well as devices equipped with a set of removable chucks that are mounted on the body of the machine itself and are always at hand.

Such equipment is usually equipped with a window through which you can observe the centering of the drill in the working area of the machine. The machine comes with standard accessories: CBN wheels, a set of collets, keys, spare parts. Additional accessories can also be supplied: diamond wheels, an additional set of collets, a lamp for the work area and others. The most famous types of such machines: Drill Doctor, G.S. and their Chinese counterparts.

According to the range of sizes of drills processed, these machines produce two main types (with different extreme diameter values): from 2 mm to 13 mm and from 13 mm to 34 mm. Their disadvantages: poor sharpening of thin drills (the precision of the machines is not designed for this) and the inability to sharpen very thin ones. For tools of small diameters, you will need a special machine for sharpening drills - for example, VZ-389SP, designed for sharpening tools measuring 0.4–4 mm and equipped with a 30x optical device to control the sharpening process.

3

Before selecting a machine for sharpening drills, it is necessary to determine the future scope of work for it, because when purchasing you need to be guided by certain operational parameters . If the device is intended to be used at home (for example, in a country house or in a garage), then you can purchase a low-power, inexpensive model - given that the machine will not be used constantly, high-power equipment will be completely useless. In addition, industrial devices are designed for sharpening drills of large diameters and consume much more electricity than household models.

When purchasing a machine, you should pay special attention to the presence of a special regulator designed to adjust the rotation of the spindle. This option will make work as efficient and safe as possible.

Another important parameter is the size of the drills, which should be determined by the range of intended work. The household machine you choose must have a fairly low noise level, especially when the equipment is planned to be used not in a separate room, but directly in a residential area.

It is also necessary to pay attention to the design of the model you like - it is best if it is as simple as possible. In this case, any breakdown will not cause much trouble - it will not be difficult to find and purchase the necessary new part and install it in place of the failed one. It should be noted that most foreign models are quite expensive in terms of their maintenance, and finding the right replacement part can sometimes be difficult. And the last recommendation: you should choose a machine for sharpening drills only in specialized retail outlets and stores where a warranty card and technical passport will be issued.

4

At enterprises, in some cases, the driller sharpens the drills himself by hand on conventional sharpening machines, which are equipped with a special device for this purpose. To do this, he must first study the rules for sharpening drills and take special preparatory courses. The device used for sharpening drills is a steel structure equipped with a movable drill clamp with an adjustable angle of inclination relative to the rotating grinding wheel and having a mount for fixing on the body of the sharpening machine.

There are also frequent cases when an enterprise does not use any devices at all when sharpening by hand on a conventional sharpening machine. In this case, the drill is held by the shank with the right hand, and as close as possible to the cutting part with the left hand. The cutting edge of the tool is pressed against the side surface of the abrasive wheel and at the same time the drill is gently rocked with the right hand, trying to ensure that its rear surface takes the desired shape and acquires the correct slope. You need to remove the metal in small layers, lightly pressing the tool against the circle. It is necessary to ensure that the cutting edges of the drill are the same length and have the same sharpening angles.

Mistakes made during manual sharpening can lead to the following drill defects:

cutting edges of unequal length;
the angles formed by the cutting edges with the tool axis are different;
The cross blade has a one-sided groove.

As a result of these defects, the drill will:

beat;
incorrectly, one-sidedly loaded on the cutting edges - may break;
drill holes larger in diameter than the drill itself.

After sharpening the tool, you should check the width of the transverse edge and the correct position relative to the cutting edges, the length of the latter, the angle: in plan φ, the inclination of the transverse edge, the clearance angle α, double sharpening φ1, at the apex 2φ. To check all these parameters, enterprises use special templates. The correct location of the jumper is determined using an optical device. In some cases, enterprises check the runout of the drill - they use a special device for this.

Metal drills made from high-speed steels are sharpened on grinding wheels made of white and normal electrocorundum on a ceramic bond with a grain size of 16–40, hardness SM, as well as on wheels made of CBN. When sharpening tools equipped with carbide inserts, synthetic diamonds are used, as well as green silicon carbide with a grain size of 16–40.

5

Without a special machine, you can use the following equipment to sharpen drills at home:

ordinary sharpening machine;
electric drill;
homemade sharpening devices.

To use a simple sharpening machine, it is better to purchase a special device, because before you yourself learn how to properly sharpen a tool without it, you can ruin more than a dozen drills. This device for sharpening drills has approximately the same structure as the industrial one described above. There are options not with mounting on the machine body, but with separate installation on a horizontal surface near the rotating grinding wheel. Such a device can be homemade. It can be made of wood: a beam with several holes for the diameter of the required drills, drilled at an angle to ensure the desired sharpening angle, is attached to its base. It is possible to provide for a change in the inclination - the sharpening angle.

In the case of an electric drill, a special attachment is used for sharpening drills. Unfortunately, they are available on sale only for sharpening at an angle of 118° and only for tool sizes of 3.5–10 mm (domestic) and 2.5–10 mm (imported). Moreover, both of them are only for drills with a spindle neck with a diameter of 43 mm. The body of these attachments has 15 holes for drills of different diameters. The attachments are equipped with a stone, the sharpening surface of which is located at a certain angle, and a leader for it, inserted into the drill chuck.

By changing the length of the leash once (shortening it), the attachment is configured to work with one specific drill. They work with it as follows: a leash with a stone at the end is inserted into the drill chuck; the nozzle is put on the spindle and secured with a screw; start the drill and insert drills into the hole of the nozzle body of the appropriate diameter. You can also make such a device yourself. In a homemade attachment, it will be possible to provide the necessary sharpening angles and tool diameters.

Homemade devices can be made in the form of conventional sharpening machines. It is better to immediately provide a method for fastening and sharpening drills, so as not to come up with additional devices for this.

It is quite simple to make a device for sharpening drills with your own hands; the conditions for success will be knowledge of the rules for sharpening a cutting tool, as well as the ability to work with hand tools and technical savvy.

The basic rules for ensuring high-quality sharpening are:

in one pass it is necessary to remove a small layer of metal;
during the work process, the drill is repeatedly cooled in an aqueous or water-soda solution;
the rotation speed of the sanding wheel should be as low as possible;
the drill should not overheat during sharpening;
During the work process, the drill is directed against the movement of the abrasive wheel.

The volume and nature of the work performed depend on the type of wear on the cutting tool. Depreciation can be classified by:

back surface;
jumpers;
corners;
chamfer;
front surface.

Depending on the type of sharpening of the drill, its technical characteristics, as well as its purpose, the following types of processing are recommended, such as:

Type of sharpening	Diameter	Purpose and characteristics of sharpening angle
Single normal – “N”	up to 12.0 mm	For universal use. Angle – in accordance with the material being processed.
Single with jumper point – “NP”	up to 12.0 mm	For processing steel castings. Angle – 115-120°.
Single with a point of the jumper and ribbon - “NPL”	over 12.0 mm	For steel and steel castings as well as cast iron. Angle – 115-120°.
Double with a pointed jumper - “DP”	over 12.0 mm	For steel and cast iron with unskimmed crust. Sharpening is performed at two angles: 116-118° and 70-75°.
Double with a point of the jumper and ribbon - “DPL”	over 12.0 mm	For universal use. Angle – in accordance with the material being processed.
According to Zhirov's method	over 12.0 mm	Used when processing fragile materials. The main sharpening angle is 118*, additional sharpening angles are 70° and 55°.

The sharpening angles for twist drills used in processing various materials must be clarified before using them, because... they vary from 85 to 135*, which is due to their viscosity.

How to make a machine with your own hands

To sharpen twist drills, any sharpening machine (unit) can be used, powered by an electrical network of 380/220 Volts, equipped with an emery wheel and equipped with a special device that ensures the fixation of the drill being sharpened at a certain angle to the axis of rotation of the abrasive element of the device.

Basic requirements for special devices that ensure high-quality performance of work:

The axis of the device must coincide with the axis of rotation of the abrasive wheel. It can be in the same horizontal plane with it or be slightly higher than it.
The equipment and fixtures used must be securely fastened.
The design of the device should make it possible to sharpen the drill at different angles, depending on the user’s needs.

To make one of the options for such devices you will need:

Hand tools, angle grinder (“grinder”), welding machine.
Sheet steel 3.0 - 4.0 mm thick, as well as small diameter steel tube available.

Work on the manufacture of the machine is carried out in the following sequence:

The sharpening machine used (No. 5 in the diagram) is firmly fixed to the selected surface.
A platform is made from strip steel (No. 1 in the diagram), on which the drill will be fixed (No. 3 in the diagram).
The shape of the site can be arbitrary, the only condition is that a groove is made at the location of the drill using a grinder.
Holes are drilled on the platform (No. 6 in the diagram), which serve to secure the mounting plate (No. 2 in the diagram), as well as holes that provide connection of the device to the grinding machine (not indicated in the diagram).
The shape and size of the mounting plate can be arbitrary.
The attachment point to the base of the grinding unit is made from a metal tube and strip steel. The presence of a tube allows the device to move in a vertical plane - it becomes possible to change the sharpening angle of the drill.
The attachment point for the sharpening device to the body of the sharpening machine depends on the type and design of the sanding wheel protection unit (No. 4 in the diagram), as well as the presence of a stop (platform) of the specific sanding unit.
If desired, the fastening unit can be equipped with additional elements that provide oscillatory movement of the device in the horizontal plane, which will ensure the required articulation during the work process.
After all the elements of the device are assembled, it is attached to the stop (casing) of the sharpening machine and the functionality of the manufactured device is checked.

To sharpen screw drills, you can use various emery wheels, but in light of the fact that this consumable material (tool) is made of durable steel, the abrasive elements must correspond to this.

Having selected the correct drawing of a device for sharpening drills, you can make homemade, full-fledged equipment at home. Thanks to this device, the task of ensuring the desired geometric shape of the tool is significantly simplified.

When using it, there is no need to worry not only about the rotation of potentially dangerous sharpening stones, but also about the sharpening angles, which must be maintained correctly, catching every degree by hand.

Features of using homemade sharpening devices

In the process of drilling holes in metal products, the drills wear out quite a lot, which leads to their heating and loss of their properties. To avoid this phenomenon, measures are required to ensure regular restoration of their geometric parameters. This can be done using special equipment for sharpening drilling tools. The creation of such a simple device can be done independently, which will allow for high-quality sharpening without any significant financial costs.

Many experienced professionals practically do not use sharpening devices, since they are absolutely confident in their experience and eye, which allows them to sharpen drills correctly. But in practice, the use of such devices is extremely necessary, as this allows mechanization of this process. As a result of such work, maximum accuracy and quality of sharpening will be ensured.

The modern market offers various types of equipment that allow high-quality restoration of the geometry of cutting tools, even in the absence of experience in this matter. At the same time, there is no urgent need to purchase such products, since they can be made with your own hands according to the existing drawings of devices for sharpening drills.

Drawings of simple devices

The simplest devices for sharpening can be bushings, the internal diameter of which corresponds to the transverse dimensions of the drills. The sleeve is rigidly fixed into a reliable base, taking into account a certain angle. When selecting a bushing for such devices, you should pay attention to the correspondence of its internal diameter with the transverse size of the tools being sharpened. It is prohibited for the tools being processed to dangle in the sleeve, since even with a deviation of 1-2 degrees along the axis from the required values, the quality and accuracy of sharpening can significantly decrease.

Such homemade devices for sharpening drills must be equipped with clips. For their manufacture, copper or aluminum tubes are suitable, the internal diameter of which is equal to the typical size of the drilling tool used.

In some cases, the task can be simplified by installing a wooden block on this structure, in which holes must be drilled with a diameter corresponding to the tool used. One of the most important elements of such a product is the presence of a tool rest, which is necessary for:

ensuring correct fixation of the drilling tool and the possibility of precise movement in relation to the surface of the abrasive stone;
creating a stop point for the drill being sharpened.

Such products made from oak bars, which have holes of different sizes, are the most reliable. Thanks to them, high-quality and precise sharpening of tools is performed. The main task that must be solved by a homemade machine or similar device is the correct orientation of the cutting part of the tools being processed to obtain the accuracy of the required sharpening angle.

To make a homemade machine for sharpening drills, a number of different design variations of such equipment can be used. If you have the appropriate drawings and understand the operating principle of this equipment, you can make sharpening equipment yourself at home.

The structure consists of the following elements:

Promopore site

Holder for drill and stop screw

Bolts, nuts, pins, screws

There are important rules that must be observed during the operation of such a device, namely, the tool being sharpened should not rotate around its axis. In case of even a slight rotation, sharpening must be done again.

The sharpened tool must be cooled naturally. After which you should check its restored geometric parameters. You can use a template for this. It should be taken into account that each cutting edge of the drill may differ from each other by no more than a tenth of a mm. At the same time, special attention should be paid to this parameter if the drills have a small diameter.

Video “Device for sharpening drills according to drawing”

Drawing of a full-fledged device

A fairly simple way to make homemade sharpening equipment, which is practically no different from the factory product. To assemble it according to ready-made drawings it takes about 1.5-2 hours.

To make a device for sharpening drills with your own hands, you must provide the following consumables, equipment and tools:

welding machine;
electric drill;
Bulgarians;
standard locksmith tool kit;
a corner, the size of the shelves is 30x30, and its length is 100-150 mm;
metal plates of different thicknesses (3-5 mm);
pins or a piece of steel rods, the diameter of which is 10-12 mm;
washers, screws, bolts and nuts of various sizes.

First of all, the manufacturing of the bed is carried out, which will be the base in the sharpening device. To do this, use a steel plate onto which a steel rod (12 mm in diameter) is welded at an angle of 75 degrees. It will be the axis.

After that, a washer should be placed on the welded rod, which will act as a support bearing. The amount of angle and rotation of the bed when sharpening the drill will be insignificant, so there is no reason to use a standard ball bearing.

The bed where the sharpened tool will be placed is made from a prepared corner. The one side on the corner profile that faces the whetstone side needs to be ground at a 60 degree angle. On the stock, according to the drawing, a bracket is welded, through which the rotating unit of the device will be fixed. As a result, a structure will be made, the corners of which, in the case of a parallel position of the bed and frame, should be located to the surface of the abrasive stone in accordance with the angle of the drill being sharpened.

The sharpening machine, which is shown in the drawing, has fixed tilt angles, but for greater possibilities it is desirable to provide the ability to adjust the angles. In such cases, there will be a greater chance of using the device if it is necessary to restore tools with different sharpening angles, for example, if it is necessary to sharpen drills for metal, concrete, etc.

To create a more functional unit, you can use drawings of other designs that can adjust the angles: