Calculation of the heating system of a private house: formulas, reference data, examples. Calculation of heating radiators per area To calculate the heating system

The heating of the building is calculated in accordance with the selected type of heating.

In a private home, it may differ in the following ways:

• heat source;
• type of heating devices;
• type of coolant circulation, etc.

The most common is a water heating system with a gas boiler as a heat source.
Its main elements are pipelines, shut-off and control valves and radiators. When installing heating in a private house, it is supplemented with a heating boiler, circulation pump and expansion tank. The boiler power, pipe diameters, number and characteristics of radiators are determined by calculation.

Calculation of the heating system is extremely important. Errors and negligence at this stage lead to costly and tedious rework. It is quite possible to produce it yourself.

Calculation stages

• calculation of heat loss at home;
• selection of temperature conditions;
• selection of heating radiators by power;
• hydraulic calculation of the system;
• boiler selection.

The table will help you understand what power radiator is needed for your room.

Heat loss calculation

The thermal engineering part of the calculation is performed on the basis of the following initial data:

• thermal conductivity of all materials used in the construction of a private house;
• geometric dimensions of all building elements.

In addition to the above initial data, it is necessary to know the internal dimensions of each room, the climatic region of construction and determine the location of the house relative to the cardinal directions.

The heat load on the heating system in this case is determined by the formula:
Mk = 1.2 x Tp, where

Tp - total heat loss of the building;

Mk - boiler power;

1.2 - safety factor (20%).

For individual buildings, heating calculations can be made using a simplified method: the total area of ​​the premises (including corridors and other non-residential premises) is multiplied by the specific climatic power, and the resulting product is divided by 10.

The value of the specific climatic power depends on the construction site and is equal to:

• for central regions of Russia - 1.2 - 1.5 kW;
• for the south of the country - 0.7 - 0.9 kW;
• for the north - 1.5 - 2.0 kW.

Temperature conditions and selection of radiators

The mode is determined based on the temperature of the coolant (most often it is water) at the outlet of the heating boiler, the water returned to the boiler, as well as the indoor air temperature.

The optimal regime, according to European standards, is the ratio 75/65/20.

To select heating radiators, before installing them, you should first calculate the volume of each room. For each region of our country, the required amount of thermal energy per cubic meter of space has been established. For example, for the European part of the country this figure is 40 W.

To determine the amount of heat for a specific room, you need to multiply its specific value by cubic capacity and increase the resulting result by 20% (multiply by 1.2). Based on the obtained figure, the required number of heating devices is calculated. The manufacturer indicates their power.

For example, each fin of a standard aluminum radiator has a power of 150 W (at a coolant temperature of 70°C). To determine the required number of radiators, you need to divide the amount of thermal energy required by the power of one heating element.

Hydraulic calculation

There are special programs for hydraulic calculations.

One of the most expensive stages of construction is the installation of the pipeline. A hydraulic calculation of the heating system of a private house is needed to determine the diameters of the pipes, the volume of the expansion tank and the correct selection of the circulation pump. The result of the hydraulic calculation is the following parameters:

• Coolant flow in general;
• Loss of heat carrier pressure in the system;
• Pressure loss from the pump (boiler) to each heating device.

How to determine coolant flow? To do this, you need to multiply its specific heat capacity (for water this figure is 4.19 kJ/kg * deg. C) and the temperature difference at the outlet and inlet, then divide the total power of the heating system by the result obtained.

The diameter of the pipe is selected based on the following condition: the speed of water in the pipeline should not exceed 1.5 m/s. Otherwise the system will make noise. But there is also a lower speed limit - 0.25 m/s. Pipeline installation requires an assessment of these parameters.

If this condition is neglected, airing of the pipes may occur. With correctly selected sections, a circulation pump built into the boiler is sufficient for the functioning of the heating system.

The pressure loss for each section is calculated as the product of the specific friction loss (indicated by the pipe manufacturer) and the length of the pipeline section. In the factory specifications they are also indicated for each fitting.

Choosing a boiler and a little economics

The boiler is selected depending on the degree of availability of a particular type of fuel. If gas is supplied to the house, there is no point in purchasing solid fuel or electric. If you need to organize hot water supply, then the boiler is not selected based on heating power: in such cases, they choose to install double-circuit devices with a power of at least 23 kW. With lower productivity, they will provide only one water collection point.

Determining the cost of heating

Calculation of the cost of thermal energy depends on which heat source is chosen by the homeowner. If preference is given to a gas boiler and the house is gasified, then the total amount will include the price of the heating device (about 1,300 euros) and the cost of connecting it to the gas pipeline (about 1,000 euros).

Next you need to add energy costs. Despite the fact that the main type of fuel in this case is gas, you still cannot do without electricity. It is necessary to ensure the operation of the circulation pump and automation elements. On average, the boiler consumes 100 W during the heating season and 20 W during the warm season (to provide hot water supply).

In the process of building any house, sooner or later the question arises - how to correctly calculate the heating system? This urgent problem will never exhaust its resource, because if you buy a boiler of less power than necessary, you will have to spend a lot of effort to create secondary heating with oil and infrared radiators, heat guns, and electric fireplaces.

In addition, monthly maintenance, due to expensive electricity, will cost you a pretty penny. The same thing will happen if you buy a boiler with increased power, which will work at half power and consume no less fuel.

Our calculator for calculating the heating of a private house will help you avoid common mistakes of novice builders. You will receive the value of heat loss and the required heat output of the boiler as close as possible to reality according to the current data of SNiPs and SPs (codes of rules).

The main advantage of the calculator on the website is the reliability of the calculated data and the absence of manual calculations, the entire process is automated, the initial parameters are as generalized as possible, you can easily see their values ​​in the plan of your house or fill them in based on your own experience.

Calculation of a boiler for heating a private house

Using our heating calculation calculator for a private home, you can easily find out the required boiler power to heat your cozy “nest”.

As you remember, in order to calculate the heat loss rate, you need to know several values ​​​​of the main components of the house, which together account for more than 90% of the total losses. For your convenience, we have added to the calculator only those fields that you can fill in without special knowledge:

• glazing;
• thermal insulation;
• window to floor area ratio;
• outside temperature;
• number of walls facing outside;
• what room is above the one being calculated;
• room height;
• room area.

After you receive the value of heat loss at home, to calculate the required boiler power, a correction factor of 1.2 is taken.

How to use the calculator

Remember that the thicker the glazing and the better the thermal insulation, the less heating power will be required.

To get results, you need to answer the following questions:

1. Choose one of the proposed types of glazing (triple or double glazing, regular double-chamber glass).
2. How are your walls insulated? Good thick insulation made from a couple of layers of mineral wool, polystyrene foam, EPS for the north and Siberia. Maybe you live in Central Russia and one layer of insulation is enough for you. Or you are one of those who is building a house in the southern regions and double hollow bricks will suit him.
3. What is your window to floor area ratio, in %. If you don’t know this value, it is calculated very simply: divide the floor area by the window area and multiply by 100%.
4. Enter the minimum winter temperature for a couple of seasons and round up. There is no need to use the average temperature in winter, otherwise you risk getting a lower-power boiler and the house will not be heated enough.
5. Are we calculating for the whole house or just for one wall?
6. What is above our premises? If you have a one-story house, choose the type of attic (cold or warm), if the second floor, then a heated room.
7. The height of the ceilings and the area of ​​the room are necessary to calculate the volume of the apartment, which in turn is the basis for all calculations.

Calculation example:

• one-story house in the Kaliningrad region;
• the length of the walls is 15 and 10 m, insulated with one layer of mineral wool;
• ceiling height 3 m;
• 6 windows of 5 m2 each from double-glazed windows;
• the minimum temperature over the last 10 years is 26 degrees;
• we calculate for all 4 walls;
• a warm heated attic above;

The area of ​​our house is 150 m2, and the window area is 30 m2. 30/150*100=20% ratio between windows and floor.

We know everything else, select the appropriate fields in the calculator and get that our house will lose 26.79 kW of heat.

26.79*1.2=32.15 kW - the required heating output of the boiler.

DIY heating system

It is impossible to calculate the heating circuit of a private house without assessing the heat loss of surrounding structures.

Russia typically has long, cold winters and buildings lose heat due to temperature changes inside and outside the premises. The larger the area of ​​the house, enclosing and through structures (roofing, windows, doors), the greater the heat loss. The material and thickness of the walls, the presence or absence of thermal insulation have a significant influence.

For example, walls made of wood and aerated concrete have a much lower thermal conductivity than brick. Materials with maximum thermal resistance are used as insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam).

Before creating a heating system for a house, you need to carefully consider all organizational and technical aspects, so that immediately after building the “box”, you can begin the final phase of construction, and not postpone the long-awaited occupancy for many months.

Heating in a private house is based on “three elephants”:

• heating element (boiler);
• pipe system;
• radiators.

Which boiler is better to choose for your home?

Heating boilers are the main component of the entire system. They are the ones who will provide warmth to your home, so you need to be especially careful when choosing them. Based on the type of food they are divided into:

• electrical;
• solid fuel;
• liquid fuel;
• gas.

Each of them has a number of significant advantages and disadvantages.

1. Electric boilershave not gained much popularity, primarily due to their relatively high cost and high maintenance costs. Electricity tariffs leave much to be desired, and there is a possibility of power lines breaking, which could leave your home without heating.
2. Solid fuelboilersoften used in remote villages and towns where there are no centralized communication networks. They heat water using wood, briquettes and coal. An important disadvantage is the need for constant monitoring of fuel; if the fuel burns out and you do not have time to replenish supplies, the house will stop heating. In modern models, this problem is solved due to an automatic feeder, but the price of such devices is incredibly high.
3. Liquid fuel boilers, in the vast majority of cases, run on diesel fuel. They have excellent performance due to high fuel efficiency, but the high price of raw materials and the need for diesel tanks limit many buyers.
4. The most optimal solution for a country house are gas boilers. Due to their small size, low gas prices and high heat output, they have won the trust of most of the population.

How to choose heating pipes?

Heating mains supply all heating devices in the house. Depending on the material of manufacture, they are divided into:

• metal;
• metal-plastic;
• plastic.

Metal pipes the most difficult to install (due to the need to weld seams), are susceptible to corrosion, are heavy and expensive. The advantages are high strength, resistance to temperature changes and the ability to withstand high pressures. They are used in apartment buildings; it is not practical to use them in private construction.

Polymer pipes made of metal-plastic and polypropylene are very similar in their parameters. Lightweight material, plasticity, lack of corrosion, noise suppression and, of course, low price. The only difference between the former is the presence of an aluminum layer between two layers of plastic, due to which the thermal conductivity increases. Therefore, metal-plastic pipes are used for heating, and plastic pipes for water supply.

Choosing radiators for the home

The last element of a classic heating system is radiators. They are also divided according to material into the following groups:

• cast iron;
• steel;
• aluminum.

Cast iron Batteries have been familiar to everyone since childhood, because they were installed in almost all apartment buildings. They have high heat capacity (they take a long time to cool down) and are resistant to temperature and pressure changes in the system. The downside is the high price, fragility and complexity of installation.

They were replaced steel radiators. A wide variety of shapes and sizes, low cost and ease of installation have contributed to their widespread adoption. However, they also have their drawbacks. Due to their low thermal capacity, the batteries cool down quickly, and their thin body does not allow them to be used in high-pressure networks.

Recently, heaters made from aluminum. Their main advantage is high heat transfer, which allows you to warm the room to an acceptable temperature in 10-15 minutes. However, they are demanding on the coolant; if the system contains large quantities of alkali or acid, the radiator service life is significantly reduced.

Use the proposed tools to calculate the heating of a private home and design a heating system that will heat your home efficiently, reliably and for a long time, even in the harshest winters.

One of the most important issues in creating comfortable living conditions in a house or apartment is a reliable, correctly calculated and installed, well-balanced heating system. That is why creating such a system is the most important task when organizing the construction of your own home or when carrying out major renovations in a high-rise apartment.

Despite the modern variety of heating systems of various types, the leader in popularity still remains a proven scheme: pipe circuits with coolant circulating through them, and heat exchange devices - radiators installed in the premises. It would seem that everything is simple, the batteries are located under the windows and provide the required heating... However, you need to know that the heat transfer from the radiators must correspond to both the area of ​​the room and a number of other specific criteria. Thermal calculations based on the requirements of SNiP are a rather complex procedure performed by specialists. However, you can do it on your own, naturally, with acceptable simplification. This publication will tell you how to independently calculate heating radiators for the area of ​​a heated room, taking into account various nuances.

But, first, you need to at least briefly familiarize yourself with existing heating radiators - the results of the calculations will largely depend on their parameters.

Briefly about existing types of heating radiators

• Steel radiators of panel or tubular design.
• Cast iron batteries.
• Aluminum radiators of several modifications.
• Bimetallic radiators.

Steel radiators

This type of radiator has not gained much popularity, despite the fact that some models are given a very elegant design. The problem is that the disadvantages of such heat exchange devices significantly exceed their advantages - low price, relatively low weight and ease of installation.

The thin steel walls of such radiators do not have enough heat capacity - they heat up quickly, but also cool down just as quickly. Problems can also arise with water hammer - welded joints of sheets sometimes leak. In addition, inexpensive models that do not have a special coating are susceptible to corrosion, and the service life of such batteries is short - usually manufacturers give them a fairly short warranty in terms of service life.

In the vast majority of cases, steel radiators are a one-piece structure, and it is not possible to vary the heat transfer by changing the number of sections. They have a rated thermal power, which must be immediately selected based on the area and characteristics of the room where they are planned to be installed. An exception is that some tubular radiators have the ability to change the number of sections, but this is usually done to order, during manufacture, and not at home.

Cast iron radiators

Representatives of this type of battery are probably familiar to everyone from early childhood - these are the types of accordions that were previously installed literally everywhere.

Perhaps such batteries MC -140-500 were not particularly elegant, but they faithfully served more than one generation of residents. Each section of such a radiator provided a heat output of 160 W. The radiator is prefabricated, and the number of sections, in principle, was not limited by anything.

There are currently many modern cast iron radiators on sale. They are already distinguished by a more elegant appearance, smooth outer surfaces that make cleaning easier. Exclusive versions are also produced, with an interesting relief pattern of cast iron casting.

With all this, such models fully retain the main advantages of cast iron batteries:

• The high heat capacity of cast iron and the massiveness of the batteries contribute to long-term retention and high heat transfer.
• Cast iron batteries, with proper assembly and high-quality sealing of connections, are not afraid of water hammer and temperature changes.
• Thick cast iron walls are little susceptible to corrosion and abrasive wear. Almost any coolant can be used, so such batteries are equally good for autonomous and central heating systems.

If we do not take into account the external characteristics of old cast iron batteries, then the disadvantages include the fragility of the metal (accentuated impacts are unacceptable), the relative complexity of installation, which is associated largely with massiveness. In addition, not all wall partitions can support the weight of such radiators.

Aluminum radiators

Aluminum radiators, having appeared relatively recently, quickly gained popularity. They are relatively inexpensive, have a modern, quite elegant appearance, and have excellent heat dissipation.

High-quality aluminum batteries can withstand pressures of 15 atmospheres or more and high coolant temperatures of about 100 degrees. At the same time, the thermal output from one section of some models sometimes reaches 200 W. But at the same time, they are lightweight (section weight is usually up to 2 kg) and do not require a large volume of coolant (capacity - no more than 500 ml).

Aluminum radiators are offered for sale as stacked batteries, with the ability to change the number of sections, and as solid products designed for a certain power.

Disadvantages of aluminum radiators:

• Some types are highly susceptible to oxygen corrosion of aluminum, with a high risk of gas formation. This places special demands on the quality of the coolant, which is why such batteries are usually installed in autonomous heating systems.
• Some aluminum radiators of a non-separable design, sections of which are made using extrusion technology, may, under certain unfavorable conditions, leak at the joints. In this case, it is simply impossible to carry out repairs, and you will have to replace the entire battery as a whole.

Of all aluminum batteries, the highest quality ones are those made using anodic oxidation of the metal. These products are practically not afraid of oxygen corrosion.

Externally, all aluminum radiators are approximately similar, so you need to read the technical documentation very carefully when making a choice.

Bimetallic heating radiators

Such radiators compete with cast iron ones in terms of reliability, and with aluminum ones in terms of thermal output. The reason for this is their special design.

Each section consists of two, upper and lower, steel horizontal collectors (item 1), connected by the same steel vertical channel (item 2). The connection into a single battery is made with high-quality threaded couplings (item 3). High heat transfer is ensured by the outer aluminum shell.

Steel internal pipes are made of metal that is not subject to corrosion or has a protective polymer coating. Well, under no circumstances does the aluminum heat exchanger come into contact with the coolant, and it is absolutely not afraid of corrosion.

This results in a combination of high strength and wear resistance with excellent thermal performance.

Prices for popular heating radiators

Heating radiators

Such batteries are not afraid of even very large pressure surges and high temperatures. They are, in fact, universal and suitable for any heating systems, however, they still show the best performance characteristics under conditions of high pressure in the central system - they are of little use for circuits with natural circulation.

Perhaps their only drawback is their high price compared to any other radiators.

For ease of reference, there is a table showing the comparative characteristics of radiators. Symbols in it:

• TS – tubular steel;
• Chg – cast iron;
• Al – ordinary aluminum;
• AA – aluminum anodized;
• BM – bimetallic.

	Chg	TS	Al	AA	BM
Maximum pressure (atm.)
working	6-9	6-12	10-20	15-40	35
crimping	12-15	9	15-30	25-75	57
destruction	20-25	18-25	30-50	100	75
Limitation on pH (hydrogen value)	6,5-9	6,5-9	7-8	6,5-9	6,5-9
Susceptibility to corrosion when exposed to:
oxygen	No	Yes	No	No	Yes
stray currents	No	Yes	Yes	No	Yes
electrolytic couples	No	weak	Yes	No	weak
Section power at h=500 mm; Dt=70 ° , W	160	85	175-200	216,3	up to 200
Warranty, years	10	1	3-10	30	3-10

Video: recommendations for choosing heating radiators

You might be interested in information about what it is

How to calculate the required number of heating radiator sections

It is clear that a radiator installed in the room (one or more) must provide heating to a comfortable temperature and compensate for the inevitable heat loss, regardless of the weather outside.

The basic value for calculations is always the area or volume of the room. The professional calculations themselves are very complex and take into account a very large number of criteria. But for household needs you can use simplified methods.

The simplest methods of calculation

It is generally accepted that to create normal conditions in a standard living space, 100 W per square meter of area is sufficient. Thus, you just need to calculate the area of ​​the room and multiply it by 100.

Q = S× 100

Q– required heat transfer from heating radiators.

S– area of ​​the heated room.

If you plan to install a non-separable radiator, then this value will become a guideline for selecting the required model. In the case where batteries will be installed that allow the number of sections to be changed, another calculation should be made:

N = Q/ Qus

N– calculated number of sections.

Qus– specific thermal power of one section. This value must be indicated in the technical data sheet of the product.

As you can see, these calculations are extremely simple and do not require any special knowledge of mathematics - just a tape measure to measure the room and a piece of paper for calculations. In addition, you can use the table below - it shows already calculated values ​​for rooms of different sizes and certain capacities of heating sections.

Section table

However, you need to remember that these values ​​are for the standard ceiling height (2.7 m) of a high-rise building. If the height of the room is different, then it is better to calculate the number of battery sections based on the volume of the room. For this, an average indicator is used - 41 V t t heat output per 1 m³ of volume in a panel house, or 34 W in a brick house.

Q = S × h× 40 (34 )

Where h– ceiling height above floor level.

Further calculations are no different from those presented above.

Detailed calculation taking into account features premises

Now let's move on to more serious calculations. The simplified calculation method given above can present a “surprise” to the owners of a house or apartment. When installed radiators do not create the required comfortable microclimate in residential premises. And the reason for this is a whole list of nuances that the considered method simply does not take into account. Meanwhile, such nuances can be very important.

So, the area of ​​the room and the same 100 W per m² are again taken as a basis. But the formula itself already looks a little different:

Q = S× 100 × A × B × C ×D× E ×F× G× H× I× J

Letters from A before J Coefficients are conventionally designated that take into account the characteristics of the room and the installation of radiators in it. Let's look at them in order:

A is the number of external walls in the room.

It is clear that the higher the contact area between the room and the street, that is, the more external walls there are in the room, the higher the overall heat loss. This dependence is taken into account by the coefficient A:

• One external wall A = 1.0
• Two external walls - A = 1.2
• Three outer walls - A = 1.3
• All four external walls are A = 1.4

B – orientation of the room to the cardinal points.

The maximum heat loss is always in rooms that do not receive direct sunlight. This is, of course, the northern side of the house, and the eastern side can also be included here - the rays of the Sun appear here only in the mornings, when the luminary has not yet reached its full power.

The southern and western sides of the house are always heated by the Sun much more strongly.

Hence the coefficient values IN :

• The room faces north or east - B = 1.1
• South or west rooms – B = 1, that is, it may not be taken into account.

C is a coefficient that takes into account the degree of insulation of the walls.

It is clear that heat loss from the heated room will depend on the quality of the thermal insulation of the external walls. Coefficient value WITH are taken equal to:

• Medium level - the walls are laid with two bricks, or their surface insulation is provided with another material - C = 1.0
• External walls are not insulated - C = 1.27
• High level of insulation based on thermal engineering calculations – C = 0.85.

D – features of the climatic conditions of the region.

Naturally, it is impossible to put all the basic indicators of the required heating power “with the same brush” - they also depend on the level of winter negative temperatures characteristic of a particular area. This takes into account the coefficient D. To select it, the average temperatures of the coldest ten-day period of January are taken - usually this value is easy to check with the local hydrometeorological service.

• — 35° WITH and below – D= 1.5
• — 25÷ — 35 ° WITH – D= 1.3
• up to – 20 ° WITH – D= 1.1
• not lower than – 15 ° WITH – D= 0.9
• not lower than – 10 ° WITH – D= 0.7

E – coefficient of ceiling height of the room.

As already mentioned, 100 W/m² is an average value for standard ceiling heights. If it differs, a correction factor must be entered E:

• Up to 2.7 m – E = 1,0
• 2,8 – 3, 0 m – E = 1,05
• 3,1 – 3, 5 m – E = 1, 1
• 3,6 – 4, 0 m – E = 1.15
• More than 4.1 m – E = 1.2

F – coefficient taking into account the type of room located higher

Installing a heating system in rooms with cold floors is a pointless exercise, and owners always take action in this matter. But the type of room located above often does not depend on them in any way. Meanwhile, if there is a living or insulated room on top, then the overall need for thermal energy will significantly decrease:

• cold attic or unheated room - F= 1.0
• insulated attic (including insulated roof) – F= 0.9
• heated room - F= 0.8

G – factor taking into account the type of windows installed.

Different window designs are subject to heat loss differently. This takes into account the coefficient G:

• conventional wooden frames with double glazing – G= 1.27
• the windows are equipped with single-chamber double-glazed windows (2 glasses) – G= 1.0
• single-chamber double-glazed window with argon filling or double-glazed window (3 glasses) - G= 0.85

N – coefficient of the glazing area of ​​the room.

The total amount of heat loss also depends on the total area of ​​windows installed in the room. This value is calculated based on the ratio of the window area to the room area. Depending on the result obtained, we find the coefficient N:

• Ratio less than 0.1 – H = 0, 8
• 0.11 ÷ 0.2 – H = 0, 9
• 0.21 ÷ 0.3 – H = 1, 0
• 0.31÷ 0.4 – H = 1, 1
• 0.41 ÷ 0.5 – H = 1.2

I is a coefficient that takes into account the radiator connection diagram.

Their heat transfer depends on how the radiators are connected to the supply and return pipes. This should also be taken into account when planning the installation and determining the required number of sections:

• a – diagonal connection, supply from above, return from below – I = 1.0
• b – one-way connection, supply from above, return from below – I = 1.03
• c – two-way connection, both supply and return from below – I = 1.13
• d – diagonal connection, supply from below, return from above – I = 1.25
• d – one-way connection, supply from below, return from above – I = 1.28
• e – one-sided bottom connection of return and supply – I = 1.28

J is a coefficient that takes into account the degree of openness of installed radiators.

Much also depends on how open the installed batteries are to free heat exchange with the room air. Existing or artificially created barriers can significantly reduce the heat transfer of the radiator. This takes into account the coefficient J:

a – the radiator is located openly on the wall or not covered by a window sill – J= 0.9

b – the radiator is covered from above with a window sill or shelf – J= 1.0

c – the radiator is covered from above by a horizontal projection of the wall niche – J= 1.07

d – the radiator is covered from above by a window sill, and from the front sides — partsdirectly covered with a decorative casing - J= 1.12

e – the radiator is completely covered with a decorative casing– J= 1.2

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Well, finally, that's all. Now you can substitute the required values ​​and coefficients corresponding to the conditions into the formula, and the output will be the required thermal power for reliable heating of the room, taking into account all the nuances.

After this, all that remains is to either select a non-separable radiator with the required thermal output, or divide the calculated value by the specific thermal power of one section of the battery of the selected model.

Surely, to many, such a calculation will seem overly cumbersome, in which it is easy to get confused. To make the calculations easier, we suggest using a special calculator - it already contains all the required values. The user can only enter the requested initial values ​​or select the required items from the lists. The “calculate” button will immediately lead to an exact result, rounded up.

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This article will discuss the basic principles of calculating the heating system of a private house. This question is constantly relevant: situations often arise when, due to incorrect heating calculations, the system provides too much heating, which negatively affects efficiency, or generates too little heat, so the house is not heated. It is the calculation of the heating system that allows you to prevent problems and provide the building with thermal energy.

How to calculate heating correctly? For correct calculation, it is necessary to identify the elements of the heating system that directly affect the amount of heat produced and transported (more details: " "). First of all, the power of the heating boiler is calculated, and the calculations must be done with a small margin. Next, the number of heating devices and their sections is calculated, if they are present in the selected type of device. The last parameter requiring calculation is the diameter of the pipeline, which is necessary to transport the coolant throughout the system. Calculations will be carried out exactly in the specified order (read: " ").

Choosing a boiler for heating a home

To calculate the boiler, you need to know what fuel will be used in this case. Practice shows that the most profitable type of fuel at the moment is main gas, but the efficiency of such devices is not the highest. In this case, the efficiency can be increased by using condensing boilers, in which not only gas, but also its combustion products are used for heating. In addition, natural gas reserves are not unlimited, and in the near future its cost may increase significantly.

If the use of main gas is not possible, then you can choose the option of a boiler powered by wood or coal. Solid fuel boilers take second place in terms of efficiency, but they need to be constantly maintained: most models require regular heating. The problem is partly solved by installation.

When choosing solid fuel as the main one, you must remember that the thermal power of coal is approximately 10% higher than the heat transfer of wood.

Electricity can also be used to heat a house, but this method is often not economical enough, especially in harsh climates. Such devices usually have a good balance between energy consumption and heat dissipation, but the efficiency of these systems can be greatly reduced during freezing conditions. The cost of such devices is quite low, so the main parameter in the calculations will be the level of electricity consumption.

Calculation of boiler thermal power

To calculate heating in a private house or apartment, you can use the standards. The basis for calculations can be found in SNiP, which states that one kilowatt of thermal energy is needed to heat 10 square meters of area. Calculation based on this principle is extremely simple, very accessible, but it simply has a huge error.

SNiP does not fully take into account the full dimensions of heated premises: when calculating the thermal power for a room with a height of three meters, the data will be completely different than when calculating the boiler power for rooms whose height reaches four meters. In addition, warm air tends to accumulate at the top, and heating calculated according to SNiP will simply be unsuitable for use.

The amount of heat loss, which increases in direct proportion to the temperature outside the house and inversely proportional to the quality of the building's thermal insulation, also has an important impact on the calculations. In private houses, the level of losses will be much higher than in multi-storey buildings: this is due to the much larger area in contact with the environment. A large amount of heat also “leaks” through doors and windows.

When calculating the heating of private houses, a coefficient of 1.5 is used, which is necessary to compensate for losses arising from the common perimeter of the building with the street. To calculate corner and end apartments in multi-storey buildings, a coefficient of 1.2-1.3 is used (the exact value depends on the quality of thermal insulation).

How to calculate radiators

When constructing a heating system, it is very important to select the required number of devices that dissipate heat throughout the premises. How to calculate the heating of a private house so that the number of radiators and their sections allows heating the entire area?

For calculations, the same method will be used as described above: to determine the required number of heating devices, it is necessary to calculate the thermal power that is needed in each room. Having calculated the amount of thermal energy required for the building and distributed this data across all rooms, you can begin to select radiators.

Good manufacturers of heating devices supply their products with technical data sheets containing the necessary information. But there is one important aspect here: the passport indicates the temperature, which assumes a temperature difference between the radiator and the room of 70 degrees. Naturally, in practice these parameters do not always coincide. Read also: "".

To provide calculation data, data that is in the passport or on the manufacturer’s website is used. Further calculations are carried out in exactly the same way as in the case of a boiler, but here it is necessary to take into account not only the thermal power of the system as a whole, but also its spread across the premises. In any case, the cost of radiators is quite low, which makes it possible to purchase them without any problems even if, as a result of the calculations, their number turned out to be large. If necessary, you can look at the photo, which shows the comparative characteristics of different radiator-type devices and the method of calculating them for a specific area.

We calculate the pipeline correctly

How to calculate heating in a private house, and which pipes are best suited? Pipes for a heating system are always selected individually, depending on the type of heating chosen, but there are certain tips that are relevant for all types of systems.

In systems with natural circulation, pipes with a larger cross-section are usually used - at least DN32, and the most common options are within DN40-DU50. This allows you to significantly reduce the coolant resistance at a slight slope.

For the installation of radiators installed using bends, DN20 pipes are used. A very common mistake when choosing is confusion between the cross-sectional diameter and the outer diameter of the pipe (more details: ""). For example, a DN32 polypropylene pipe usually has an outer diameter of about 40 mm.

Systems equipped with a circulation pump are best equipped with pipes with an outer diameter of 25 mm, which allows heating a building of medium size (read also: ""). In the case of radial distribution, metal-plastic or polyethylene pipes with a diameter of 16 mm are sufficient.

The calculations themselves rely on the possibility of distributing thermal power. As practice shows, the most suitable coolant speed is 0.6 m/s, and the maximum is 1.5 m/s. To determine suitable pipes, you need to use a table that shows the relationship between the diameter of the pipes and the required flow rate. Values ​​are always rounded up. This method of pipe selection is only suitable for heating systems with forced circulation.

Conclusion

Having an effective heating system is the main condition for creating a comfortable atmosphere in your home. When calculating it, many factors are taken into account: type of floors, quality of thermal insulation, location of window openings, climatic features of the region, etc. Engineering calculations look very cumbersome and are not understandable to the average consumer. To facilitate the arrangement of heating, a simplified calculation was created, with which you can independently make the necessary calculations.

How to calculate a heating system for a private home?

Since the home heating system consists of several elements, each of which must cope with its tasks 100%, the calculations will concern all components separately. Of course, a simplified calculation will not give maximum accuracy, but the errors will not be catastrophic.

To arrange heating we need to know:

• power of the heat generator - boiler;
• number of radiators (batteries);
• circulation pump performance.

Only by correctly determining these indicators can we achieve effective heating of a private home, ensuring a comfortable temperature in the home even in the most severe frost. Let's consider each stage of calculations separately!

How to calculate a boiler for heating a private house?

Heat generators have various operating parameters, the main one of which is considered to be the thermal characteristic - power. This is what people pay attention to first when choosing equipment. Some people believe that the main thing is to purchase a device with performance no less than the required parameter. However, the use of overly powerful units will lead to increased heating costs, rapid wear of equipment, the appearance of condensation on the walls of the chimney and other unpleasant consequences.

Ideally, you need to perform the calculations correctly and add 20% to the resulting value. They will serve as a reserve in case of unforeseen circumstances, for example, a strong drop in air temperature outside or a decrease in the supply of fuel used. The calculations will be the same for all types of heat generators, the main thing is to take into account the characteristics of the room.

How to calculate a gas boiler for heating a private house?

If the ceilings in the home do not exceed 3 meters, and the house itself is built according to a standard design, then calculating the power of the heat generator will not be very complicated. But to carry out calculations, we need to know the specific power of the unit per 10 m² of area, depending on the region of location:

• warm southern regions - 0.7-0.9 kW;
• middle zone with a temperate continental climate - 1.0-1.2 kW;
• Moscow region - 1.2-1.5 kW;
• north - 1.5-2.0 kW.

Let's assume that we need to choose a heating boiler for a private house with an area of ​​250 m², which is located in the northern region. The formula will help us perform the calculations:

M=P*MUD/10, Where

M - boiler power;

P is the area of ​​the heated dwelling;

MUD is the specific power of the boiler, which in our case is 2 kW.

Substituting the numerical values, we get: 250*2/10=50 kW. Therefore, the power of our heat generator must be at least 50 kW. If you plan to install a double-circuit unit that will not only heat the room, but also heat water for domestic needs, you need to add another 25% to the resulting figure.

How to calculate an electric boiler for heating a private house?

As we have already mentioned, power calculation is relevant for all types of heat generators. However, there is an opinion that with the help of electric boilers only small areas can be heated. This is not true, because the modern market offers models powered by electricity that can heat up to 1000 m². The question is, is their use beneficial?

Often, electric boilers in large houses and cottages act as an additional source of heat, which is associated with the high cost of electricity and frequent problems with its supply. It’s safe to say that this type of equipment is best used for heating small homes, otherwise the utility bills will be impressive. It is advisable to choose multi-stage models, the power of which starts from 6 kW, since with their help you can significantly reduce energy consumption.

How to calculate heating radiators for a private house?

We have figured out the intricacies of choosing boilers, now we can move on to the next step - calculating the number of heating batteries. This parameter is calculated for each room separately. Let's say we need to calculate how many radiator sections we need to heat a room with an area of ​​35 m². For installation, cast iron heating devices with a power of one section of 190 W were chosen, which is indicated in the passport.

• first stage of calculations: 35*100= 3500 W, where 100 W is the standard power required to heat 1 m²;
• second stage of calculations: 3500/190=18 sections.

Therefore, the heating system of our calculation room must include 18 radiator sections. However, these calculations cannot be called accurate, because there are heat losses, which must be foreseen at the calculation stage. For this purpose, correction factors are used. The easiest way is to multiply the resulting value by 1.1 if:

• ceilings in the house are higher than 3 meters;
• some walls in the room are external;
• there is more than one window in the room;
• The thermal insulation of the home leaves much to be desired.

Coefficients 1.1 are entered into the formula if each of the above conditions is present.

How to calculate heating batteries for a private house with coefficients?

Let's assume that the height of our calculation room is 3.3 meters, there are two windows and one outer wall:

• first stage of calculations: 35*100*1.1*1.1*1.1= 4658.5 W;
• second stage of calculations: 4658,5/190=25 sections.

Adjusted calculations showed that we would need 25 radiator sections to heat 35 m². Since there are 2 windows in the room, the number of fins must be divided between them in order to reduce thermal energy losses.

How to calculate a heating pump for a private house?

As a rule, a circulation pump is introduced into the home heating system, which accelerates the movement of the coolant through the pipes and increases the heating efficiency. To determine the required performance of this additional equipment, it is necessary to know the value of the highest point of the system, the area of ​​the room and the resistance of the heating network.

The easiest way to find out the resistance is by the type of radiators used:

• cast iron - 1 m;
• aluminum - 1.2 m;
• bimetallic - 2 m.

In our example, the area of ​​the house is 250 m², the height from the pump to the upper heating device is 6 meters, our batteries are cast iron. We carry out calculations:

• pump pressure: 6+1=7 meters;
• amount of electricity consumed: 250/10=25 kW, since according to the standard the required heat per 10 m² = 1 kW. Convert to other units of measurement: 25*0.86=24.08 kcal.
• pump performance: 24.08/10=2.41 m³/hour, where 10 is the recommended temperature difference in the heating system.

According to calculations, to heat our house of 250 m², a circulation pump with a capacity of 2.41 m³/hour at a pressure of 7 meters will be required. Ideally, the equipment should be three-speed, and the indicators we need should be the characteristics of the second speed.

Knowing how to correctly calculate heating in a private home, you can easily calculate the optimal performance of each element of the system. Of course, the calculations of specialists will be more accurate, but if you do the work yourself, the formulas we have given above will allow you to achieve minimal errors. Remember that the level of comfort in your home will completely depend on the correctness of the calculations!

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