Everyone knows that there is always high humidity in the bathroom, for this reason fungus, mold on the walls and other unpleasant factors form. This is why every family needs a bathroom.
Installing a fan in the bathroom is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. You don't have to be a jack of all trades to install it correctly, but you still need to know a few important points. Installing the device will not take much time. It is, of course, advisable to install a fan during repairs, but there are cases when existing ventilation means are not up to the task. This can be easily determined by fogged mirrors in the bathroom, or when it becomes difficult to breathe during bathing procedures.
Don't be afraid that a regular installation can ruin the repair you just made. When installing ventilation, it is not necessary to make repairs again; you just need to coat it a little with plaster or putty, and nothing will be noticeable. In cases where the existing ventilation does not cope with its function, it is necessary to install additional ventilation devices.
Tools and materials needed to install a bathroom fan
- The first thing you will need is the device itself (fan). You need to select it by first measuring the width and length, and depth of the opening prepared for installing the device.
- Hammer or drill - needed to drill holes.
- Dowels with a diameter of approximately 3 mm. But this also depends on the design of the fan itself.
- In order to connect the device to the electrical wiring, you must also purchase wires and cable ducts.
- Putty - needed to re-cover the places where the plaster will fly off when installing ventilation.
- Sealant.
- Decorative lattice.
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Types and systems of ventilation
It is very important that there is good ventilation in rooms with high humidity; human health, in particular, depends on this. It is for this reason that certain requirements are imposed on ventilation in the bathroom, which are specified in SNIPs.
There are a lot of types of ventilation, but existing ventilation does not always cope with its immediate task.
According to air exchange, ventilation is divided into two main types:
- Natural - fresh air comes from the windows and doors in the bathroom.
- Artificial, also called forced, works due to the installation of ventilation devices.
According to purpose, ventilation is divided into 3 types:
- Exhaust - air exchange occurs due to the exit of air from the room through the shaft.
- Supply air - air exchange occurs through the ventilation duct.
- Mixed - in this case, two principles work: the release of old air through the shaft and ventilation.
In cases where you need to replace the old hood with a new one, you just need to unscrew the screws from the old ventilation means with a screwdriver and screw the fan you previously selected into the same place. But when you need to use forced ventilation, you need to use a hammer drill to create an additional hood, which will be connected to the ventilation duct. To connect the device in the bathroom, you can use a light switch or bathroom light. In this case, the ventilation will work when the bathroom is lit. There are times when it is not always necessary for the fan to work when the light is on, then you just need to purchase an additional switch. An additional hood will eliminate the unpleasant odor.
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Types of bathroom exhaust fans
There are several types of bathroom fans. They are all different in functionality and design, so everyone chooses what they need:
- Axial - considered one of the most popular, because it is very simple. They must be installed directly into the wall: into the openings of the ventilation shaft. Compared to other devices, they have a fairly high efficiency - more than 100 cubic meters per hour. There is a small drawback: axial fans are very noisy, their noise reaches up to 30-35 dB.
- Radial - a master should definitely work with it, since it will be very difficult without special knowledge and experience. Radial fans save energy – 20%. They are considered silent.
- Centrifugal - despite their power, these fans are silent. They are mainly used when the room is larger than 15 m². Centrifugal fans appeared in the 70s, but almost immediately became known throughout the world due to their ease of use. Most often, such fans are installed under the ceiling, then hidden under drywall. Installation of such fans does not take much time.
- Roof fans – installation of these fans is carried out by special specialists. This type of ventilation is installed on the roof of residential premises. This is the best choice for those who are afraid of ruining the renovation they just made. The advantages of this device are that it does not take up space in the room and does not disturb you with noise.
The choice of ventilation can be approached not only from the functional side, but also from the design side. By making an unusual renovation in the bathroom and choosing a stylish and modern fan, you will help to transform the bathroom even more.
Good day, dear blog readers. The topic of the post is how to connect a bathroom fan to a switch and we will try to do it ourselves.
The bathroom is considered a high-risk room, according to construction documentation. High humidity also means dampness, odors, and mold, so good ventilation is essential.
Bathroom fan
According to regulatory data, the amount of air exchange should be 25 cubic meters. m/hour, so when choosing a fan, take this requirement into account. The fan also has an indicator that is also regulated by standards, this is the noise effect of operation.
During the daytime, the fan noise should be between 23 and 58 dB, at night between 13 and 50 dB. It is better to purchase a fan in advance so that you know what diameter the mounting hole should be made when laying tiles.
At the moment, fans are available with a humidity sensor, timer, photo timer, motion sensor, etc. Before purchasing, you will need to decide what you would like to purchase. Let's take a closer look at connecting the most common options.
During installation work, connections and connections, make sure that there is no voltage in the wires using.
Fan connection diagram with timer
In this option, the fan and bathroom lighting are turned on simultaneously. When the lamp is turned off, there is a delay in turning off the fan for a certain time.
Connecting a fan with a timer
Let's take a closer look at the connection and wiring of the wires in this diagram. We lay a three-core power cable into the distribution box, the cores of which have a certain insulation color.
The wire in brown insulation will be the phase, blue the neutral and yellow the ground. We will lay the next three-core cable from the lamp to.
We will run a two-core cable from the switch into the box. You will have to run a three-core cable and an additional fourth cable from the box to the fan.
Now let's connect the wires and connect them. We strip all the cables in the box from the outer sheath and strip each wire of insulation to about six centimeters.
We take the blue neutral wire of the power cable, the blue wire from the lamp and the blue one going to the zero contact of the fan (N), twist together.
Then we take the brown wire of the power cable, the brown wire coming from the contact L twist the fan and the brown wire going to the switch together.
Now we take the brown wire coming from the lamp, the blue wire coming from the switch and the brown wire from the contact A fan, twist together.
We solder or crimp the twisted ends, insulate them, put them in a box and close it. We supply power and check our work.
Connection diagram for a fan with a lamp
If you don't need the bells and whistles of a fan, you can purchase a simple fan and connect it in parallel with the lamp.
If repairs are not expected, then you need to run a three-core cable from the bathroom lamp to the installed fan and connect the blue wire to the contact N fan and the neutral wire going to the lamp.
We connect the yellow wire to the grounding contact of the fan, the other end of the wire to the grounding of the lamp. Connect the brown wire to the contact L fan, the other end of the wire to the phase wire of the lamp.
If you are in the process of repair, then it is better to bring all the wires into the junction box and make a connection in it. In our case, the three-core cable has three colors, blue, yellow and brown, and the two-core cable has blue and brown.
The box comes with a three-wire power cable, three-wire from the lamp, three-wire from the fan and two-wire from the switch.
Fan connection diagram
We cut all the cables, strip all the wires to about six centimeters. Next, take the blue (zero) wire of the power cable, the blue wire from the lamp, the blue wire from the fan and twist them together.
Now we take the brown (phase) wire of the power cable and the brown wire of the cable coming from the switch, twist them together.
Then we take the brown wire from the fan, the brown wire from the lamp and the blue wire from the switch, and twist them together.
We cut off the uneven ends of all twists with side cutters, solder or crimp the twists, insulate them, put them in a box and close it.
We connect a switch, lamp, fan to the wires, supply power and check the functionality of the circuit.
Connection diagram of the fan to a two-key switch
This is another common fan connection option where the bathroom light is turned on separately and the fan separately.
In this option, a distribution box is installed into which three-core cables from a lamp, a double switch, a fan and a power panel or an adjacent box are inserted.
Connecting a fan to a two-key switch
We connect the wires in the box. We cut off all the cables and strip the wires. We take the stripped blue (zero) wire from the power cable, blue from the lamp, blue from the fan and twist them together.
Then we take the brown (phase) wire of the power cable, the brown wire from the cable coming from the switch, and twist it.
Now we take the brown wire from the cable coming from the fan, the green wire from the cable coming from the switch, and twist them together.
We take the brown wire from the cable coming from the lamp, the blue wire from the cable coming from the switch, and twist it. We connect the switch, lamp, fan according to the electrical diagram.
We bite off the uneven and sharp ends of the twists with side cutters, or crimp the twists, insulate them, put them in a box, close it, apply power and check the functionality of this circuit, in which each key will turn on the lamp and fan separately.
Here are all the intricacies of connecting, I think everyone can handle it. Good luck with your electrical installation.
Best regards, Igor Vilkov.
In modern houses, it is not always possible to achieve high-quality air exhaust using natural ventilation: poor design of the house, changes in the design of the neighbors' hoods. Therefore, quite a long time ago people began to install forced exhaust hoods in their bathrooms. This is necessary in order to pump out air with high humidity, which has a bad effect on almost any material that is used in bathroom renovations. The installation itself on empty walls takes no more than 30 minutes, and will bring you many positive aspects. Fungus, mold, dampness and constant high humidity - all this can be avoided by simply installing an electric hood in the bathroom. In this article we will talk about how to properly install and how to properly connect the fan to the hood.
- In modern houses, it is not always possible to achieve high-quality air exhaust using natural ventilation: poor design of the house, changes in the design of the neighbors' hoods. Therefore, quite a long time ago people began to install forced exhaust hoods in their bathrooms. This is necessary in order to pump out air with high humidity, which has a bad effect on almost any material that is used in bathroom renovations. The installation itself on empty walls takes no more than 30 minutes, and will bring you many positive aspects. Fungus, mold, dampness and constant high humidity - all this can be avoided by simply installing an electric hood in the bathroom. In this article we will talk about how to properly install and how to properly connect the fan to the hood.
Preparing the ventilation duct
The exhaust fan must be installed before laying the tiles. In every modern house, a ventilation duct is already provided for the hood. Most often it is located in the corner of the bathroom, between the toilet and the bathtub, in the wall. In order to avoid problems with cutting the tiles during further work, it is best to mark the hole for installation, stepping back slightly from the wall. If the hole that was made during design is small for your fan, then you can enlarge it using a hammer drill and a spade attachment. Before continuing work, we pull out the power cable from the switch so that it does not fray, it is necessary to place it in a corrugated tube. The lack of cable complicates the situation. To connect the system, you will have to stretch a VVG wire with 3 copper wires with a cross-section of 1.5 mm.
The number “100” in the name means the diameter of the air duct, so the device is suitable for installation in ventilation ducts with a diameter of 100mm - 140mm. In this case, the ventilation duct hole can be even round,
so is it square the main thing is that the dimensions are respected - no less than 100mm and no more than 140mm.
The maximum size of the ventilation duct that will block the exhaust fan can be determined by its overall dimensions, namely height and width. For the Silent 100 fan it is 158 x 158 mm, taking into account the need to leave space to secure the device, and this is at least 5-10 mm on each side, and the maximum allowable size where installation is possible is determined.
To install and connect an exhaust fan, you need to supply power in advance; the connection diagrams here can be very varied, any used in lighting will do (via a switch, switch, motion sensors, humidity sensors, etc.).
It is most convenient if the power wire is inserted into the ventilation duct in advance, before laying the tiles. But this model also allows external connection of the power cable; for this purpose, there is a cavity on the back wall of the fan for laying wires.
Installing an exhaust fan in the bathroom
First of all, when installing a fan, you need to disassemble it- remove the front protective panel. To do this, you need to press the round lock located on the bottom edge of the fan, and then pull the front panel towards you.
Further we throw the power cable inside. There is a rubber round plug in the lower left part of the fan specifically designed for this purpose. Channels also go to it on the back side, when the power cable is routed externally.
CONNECTING THE EXHAUST FAN
Let's start connecting the power wires to the fan. This is done intentionally before the final fixation of the device in order to check the functionality of both the device itself and the connection diagram.
As usual, when doing any work with live wires, turn off the protective circuit breakers. To do this, the metering and distribution board must be lowered down to the “off” position. If you are not sure which circuit breaker or differential circuit breaker is responsible for the ventilation power line in the bathroom, turn everything off, it will be safer.
The wires are connected to the fan terminals, hidden by a protective cover, on the right side of the device.
We adjust the supply wires to size, cutting off the excess. Then remove the protective sheath and insulation from the cable cores by 5-7mm.
To connect, a PHASE (white) and ZERO (white-blue) wire is enough. Grounding is not connected to this model, since the housing and all its external elements are made of dielectric materials and do not pose a danger.
The fan has only two terminals; they are marked L and N.
The procedure for connecting wires to the exhaust fan is as follows:
White phase wire- to the terminal marked L
Blue-white neutral wire- to the terminal marked N
How to determine which wire is phase, neutral, and which is ground yourself, our detailed instructions will help you -.
Place the wires into the terminals and tighten the mounting bolts.
TNow you can close the protective cover and check the operation and correct connection of the exhaust fan. To do this, turn on the electric current and turn the switch that controls the fan to the “on” position.
If everything is done correctly, the indicator in the upper left corner will light up and the fan blades will begin to rotate. After checking, be sure to turn off the exhaust fan and proceed to fixing it.
Mounting an exhaust fan in a bathroom
The manufacturer provides mounting holes located in the corners to fix the exhaust fan on the bathroom wall.
But this method has many disadvantages, here are the most significant of them:
Quite labor-intensive when creating holes in ceramic tiles, and even more so in porcelain stoneware, which is often used to line bathroom walls.
The need to use certain power tools and specialized drills.
It is difficult to make a tight connection between the fan and the wall, cracks remain, and extraneous sounds are possible.
The method of installing an exhaust fan in a bathroom using silicone sealant does not have all these disadvantages..
The technology for installing an exhaust fan on silicone is as follows:
Silicone sealant is installed in a special gun, with the help of which the contents of the tube are applied around the perimeter of the mounting ventilation hole
Then the exhaust fan is installed in the ventilation duct, leveled and pressed securely.
Then, for the greatest installation accuracy, fix the fan on the bathroom wall using, for example, tape or seam tape, as shown in the image below.
After some time (2-3 hours), when the silicone has hardened, the fan will be completely ready for operation, it will be possible to remove the retaining elements and begin its direct use for its intended purpose.
As you can see, the installation method described here is as simple as possible and almost anyone can handle it, I also advise you to read about the timer for the exhaust fan, why it is needed and how to install it -.
If you still have questions about connecting an exhaust fan, be sure to write them in the comments to the article, we will try to help!
Why do you need a fan in the bathroom? The climate characteristics in the bathroom are the most difficult in the apartment. High air humidity and high temperatures have an extremely negative effect not only on wall and ceiling finishing materials, but also on electrical wiring, household appliances, etc. Another important point is the appearance of mold. In physics there is the concept of dew point. It depends on relative humidity and temperature. The higher the humidity, the higher the temperature at which condensation forms. If there is no ventilation, then as a result of increased humidity, dew appears on the walls and ceilings at a temperature of ≈ +18–20°C. As a result, fungus grows in the corners - a very allergenic microorganism.
Room ventilation parameters are regulated by the current SNiP 41–01–2003. The standard prescribes several types of ventilation and air exchange rates.
SNiP 41-01-2003. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning
Ventilation can be of two types.
Natural
Using special openings in bathrooms, fresh air is supplied and exhaust air is removed. The exchange occurs due to the pressure difference - warm air from the room rises and is released into the atmosphere through ventilation ducts. Fresh air enters from below through openings in the door. The dimensions of the holes are calculated taking into account the climatic zone of the buildings, the volume of the room and the frequency of exchange. In bathrooms, the air should be changed 6-8 times per hour.
The advantages of such a system are simplicity and autonomy of operation.
Disadvantages - greater dependence on weather conditions, the likelihood of reverse draft. The air is not drawn out of the room, but forced. As a result of this phenomenon, the humidity in all rooms increases.
High humidity causes mold and mildew
Another drawback is large heat losses. In the context of constantly rising energy prices, the costs of maintaining premises are increasing. Homeowners are trying to reduce losses using various methods. This must be done skillfully; as a result of unprofessional intervention, instead of the desired savings, you can get serious losses. The walls and ceilings of the bathrooms will have to be repaired.
Forced
Fans are used to supply/extract air. An exhaust fan for a bathroom removes air only during a given period of time or at certain air humidity values (depending on the type and capabilities of the device); the supply of fresh air is ensured by special vents. According to the method of supplying or extracting air, forced ventilation can be exhaust, supply or supply and exhaust. If the fan only removes air, the system is forced exhaust; if it only pumps air, the system is forced supply. If there are two fans, one of which supplies and the second removes, then the system is called supply and exhaust.
The use of a forced ventilation system for a bathroom makes it possible to achieve regulated humidity values with minimal heat loss. Which type of ventilation to choose depends on the capabilities and wishes of the apartment owner and the architectural features of the building.
Restrictions on installing fans in the bathroom
It is very important to know this point; not all homes have current industry regulations that allow the installation of electric fans. Mainly such restrictions apply to apartment buildings, especially old buildings. Not all natural ventilation options can be converted into forced ventilation. Why?
The effectiveness of natural ventilation depends on many components; the cross-section of the air ducts is calculated taking this into account. Such calculations are made both for an individual apartment and for the entire house. After installing fans in existing air ducts, their cross-section changes. The consequence is that the permeability decreases, the actual air movement does not correspond to the calculated one. When the fan is turned off, there is no ventilation at all. Another problem is that there is a risk of exhaust air from one apartment entering adjacent ones. Due to such problems, the installation of fans in apartment buildings with natural general ventilation is in most cases not allowed. This is something to keep in mind before deciding to install an electric fan in your bathroom.
How to calculate fan power
You should start from the requirements of sanitary authorities. The frequency of exchange for bathrooms ranges from 6–8 times per hour. The bathroom fan should provide this indicator. Let's look at an example of how to make calculations. Initial data: room width 2.5 m, length 3.0 m, height 2.7 m. How to find out the minimum fan performance? Let's calculate the volume of the room: 3.0×2.5×2.7=20.25 m3. To ensure a comfortable stay in the bathroom, the multiplicity should be 8, multiply the volume by this value and get 162 m3. This is how much air the fan should extract or supply per hour. A specific model must be selected with a power reserve of approximately 20%. In this case, it is recommended to buy a device with a capacity of ≈ 200 m3.
Additionally, the noise and safety of fans should be taken into account. According to regulatory requirements, the fan noise cannot exceed 30 dB, otherwise the psyche of those staying will explode. The housing is sealed at least IP 44. The mechanism is protected from multidirectional water splashes and solid particles with a diameter of more than 0.1 mm. Technical data of any fan are indicated by the manufacturer in the passport or instructions for use.
SanPiN requirements for bathrooms
According to the provisions of SanPiN 5179–90, relative humidity should be ≈ 65%, temperature in winter +25°C, in summer +18°C. Air speed ≤ 0.3 m/s. Consider these values when selecting the fan type. The exhaust hole should be at the maximum distance from the supply air, exhaust air outlet at the top, fresh air inflow at the bottom.
Types of bathroom fans and their brief characteristics
Depending on the method of air intake and the principle of creating high flow pressure, all fans are divided into several types:
Various manufacturers produce modifications that differ in size, availability of additional accessories, design and degree of protection of the case from moisture and dust.
Additional equipment for fans
Installed to facilitate the process of controlling the operation of the fan, it makes it possible to ventilate the bathroom automatically.
- Check valve. A plastic or metal damper on hinges opens when the fan is turned on, and closes the conditional passage of the ventilation duct after turning it off. It does not allow the effect of reverse draft; insects and dusty outside air do not enter the room.
- Humidity sensor. Connected to the fan motor, response parameters are configured by the consumer. When the humidity in the room rises above the set limits, the hood automatically turns on, and when the humidity levels stabilize, the fan turns off. Among all the additional automation devices used, this type of fan is considered the most efficient.
- Motion Sensor. The fan only works when there are people in the bathroom. Practice shows that the invested funds do not correspond to the expected effect. The fact is that during the short time people spend in the bathroom, the air humidity does not have time to stabilize. The fan must run for at least an hour after taking water procedures, only after that the climatic indicators reach normal levels.
- Time relay. The fan turns on simultaneously with the light in the bathroom. Switching off occurs after a certain time after turning off the light. A better option for automation. The downside is that lights don't always need to be turned on in bathrooms. Another problem is that additional electrical fittings are required to connect the electric motor to the network.
Manufacturers do not talk about these points, but consumers should know the real advantages and disadvantages of additional equipment. They can be quite expensive, and the effect of their use is close to zero.
Model selection criteria
We have already mentioned one criterion for choosing a fan - air performance. Now we need to look at it in more detail. When calculating the air exchange rate, building codes take into account that natural ventilation operates continuously. Based on these data, it is believed that the frequency of air exchange should be 6–8 per hour, respectively, at least 6 × 24 = 144 times per day. This is how many times the air in the bathroom should be changed.
The electric fan does not work 24 hours, which means that sanitary standards are not observed. If the fan is turned on only when people are in the room, then the effect of such ventilation is minimal. Which exit? There are two options. First. Installing powerful fans, which is difficult from an engineering point of view and not economically feasible. Secondly, the fan must operate around the clock. Then why is it needed? It is better to use ordinary natural ventilation.
Practitioners advise using the third option. Install fans that slightly interfere with natural ventilation; when turned on, they only increase it for a short time. Do not buy decorative grilles that are too closed; carefully use a silent bathroom fan with a check valve that closes the air duct gap.
Video - Surface-mounted silent household fan with check valve
And one last thing. Do not rush to install built-in fans; such devices should be provided at the design stage of ventilation systems. If they are installed in existing air ducts, the channel cross-section is reduced by at least 25%.
In apartment buildings, there is a risk of humid air flowing to neighbors. The fact is that these buildings have common bathroom ducts for all floors. If duct fans are installed in the bathrooms of the lower and upper apartments, the fan in the lower one is turned on, but not in the upper one, then humid air enters the middle one. As a result, there will be problems with neighbors, and after they contact local authorities, all illegally installed fans will be forced to be dismantled, and the victims will have to pay a fine and moral damages. And everything will be legal and fair. In addition, in old houses the ventilation ducts are made of red brick. Insufficient air flow causes the bricks to become waterlogged; when exposed to moisture, they begin to crumble and pieces fall down. Over time, the ventilation duct can become so clogged that it stops performing its functions. To restore functionality, you need to redo it; this is difficult, time-consuming and expensive.
Bathroom fan
Installation of an external (overhead) fan
One of the most successful options for ventilation in the bathroom. Installing a overhead fan is not very difficult, the main thing is to know and follow the recommendations of specialists.
How is installation done?
Step 1. Select the type and power of the device; we have already described how this is done. If you are planning to install a bathroom fan with a check valve, then be aware of their problems. When switched off, ventilation stops completely, increase the operating time. To do this, it is recommended to connect it to a separate switch, which will allow you to regulate the operating time within a wide range, regardless of whether people are in the bathroom. You can independently adjust the operating time depending on the humidity in the bathroom. The device must operate until moisture has completely evaporated from all surfaces. It is impractical to install various expensive devices for automatic switching on/off.
Step 2. Think over the electrical connection diagram. If the house is under construction, then there are no problems; you can choose any type of fan and connect it before finishing work on the bathroom begins. If the fan is installed in a residential area, then difficulties arise. Which?
- You need to know where the wiring boxes are located. In old buildings they are noticeable, new buildings have a hidden version of the wiring. They are difficult to find and require a wiring plan or special tools.
- If the ceilings are plastered, then you should prepare for gating. This is labor-intensive and dusty work. In addition, you will have to seal the grooves, and not everyone can do this; the skills of a professional builder are required.
A separate issue is the walls under the tiles. Removing them is a big problem, not damaging the material is even more difficult. Replacing a damaged tile with a new one is not so easy; it is unlikely that you will find exactly the same one in the store. There is only one way out - try to create a semblance of a pattern on the wall; to do this, you need to dismantle large sections of the old tiles.
Careful removal of tiles
- If the ceilings are suspended or suspended, then wiring installation becomes even more problematic. Stretch ceilings should be removed, a fan connected and then reinstalled. It’s more difficult with suspended ones; they cannot be dismantled. The solution is to try to pull the wires through the existing technological holes, and then seal everything.
If such work seems very difficult for you, we recommend doing open wiring. Of course, wires do not decorate the bathroom, but there is no other choice.
The amount of construction and installation work can be reduced by connecting to an existing lighting lamp. It is usually mounted on the ceiling, the distance to the ventilation hole is minimal. This method will reduce the amount of work, but will limit the parameters for adjusting the operating time of the device. Ventilation will only work when the light is on. We have already mentioned that not all bathrooms need light during bathing. This means that it will have to be turned on specifically for ventilation. In addition, the ventilation time is clearly not enough to completely remove excess moisture or unpleasant odors.
Make a specific decision on the connection method on site, taking into account your capabilities and the characteristics of the room.
Step 3. Measure the total length of the wiring, buy a cable, switch, connectors, etc. The cross-section of the cable must correspond to the power of the electric motor. Most household fans have a power of less than 500 W; a cable with a core cross-section of ≈ 1 mm2 is sufficient. The data is indicated on the insulation, pay attention to them.
Important. If the wiring is external, then the cable insulation must be designed for operation in conditions of high humidity.
It is highly desirable that the device be grounded. In new buildings this is not a problem; modern state standards categorically require such wiring. If it is, buy a three-core cable.
In old houses, nothing can be done with a ground connection. The only advice is to make all connections very carefully, never violate the PUE. Do not use twisted cable ends; connections should only be made using terminal blocks.
In addition, bathroom fans must have a complete set of equipment to protect against overheating and short circuits. Do not try to change the factory settings of protective relays yourself; unprofessional intervention in the operation of complex equipment will disable it or render it useless. While the misregulated relay is activated, the motor windings will burn out.
Step 4. Prepare a place to install the fan. It is necessary to level the surface of the decorative grille and clean the channel from dust and dirt. If necessary, widen the duct slightly. Level the surfaces with a margin of area, in this way you can make the joint less noticeable. If during preparation there are doubts about the reliability of the grille attachment points, then further strengthen them. Drill larger holes and seal them with cement-sand mortar - this will guarantee the strength of the dowel fixation.
Step 5. Assemble the fan according to the manufacturer's instructions. Pay attention to the tightness of the connections. The fan will be installed in a location that is inconvenient for maintenance; all work must be performed with maximum reliability.
Step 6. Try on the fan, insert it into place and make sure that it fits freely and that the grille fits tightly to the surface of the ceiling or wall. Correct any deficiencies found immediately.
Step 7 Connect the fan to power and check its operation in all modes.
Turn off the device completely and check the heating temperature by hand. If hot spots are found, then you need to find the cause of the heating. What causes the fan to overheat?
- Unscrupulous manufacturer. There is no need to name the country. Unscrupulous manufacturers save on the thickness of the copper wire of the stator and rotor windings. In addition, low-quality materials are used for insulation. As a result, a high current flows through the windings and the product heats up. If the protection relay does not respond to such a situation, then it is better to replace the fan.
- Due to long-term storage and poor sealing, the rotor bearing lubricant has lost its original properties. A clear sign of this condition is an unpleasant squeaking sound during operation. The fan can be repaired, but it is advisable to replace it.
- The installation location is too small and requires a lot of effort during installation. For this reason, the housing may become deformed and the impeller will touch the limiters. Expand the ventilation duct with a hammer drill.
If everything is fine, fix the fan in the chosen location.
For ceilings you need to use dowels; on walls with tiled cladding you can use liquid nails or polymer glue. The solution should be applied around the perimeter of the fan housing from the back side, inserted into place and pressed firmly against the facing tile. Then immediately remove and wait 1-2 minutes for the glue to set. After this time, reinsert the fan into place, press down and allow time for complete polymerization. Everything is ready - you can fix the decorative grille. Use only high-quality materials; as a result of prolonged vibration, the grille may fall off, and you will have to repeat the work, only taking into account negative experience.
Installation of a built-in (duct) fan
This can only be done at the stage of building a house and if there are separate ventilation ducts. Built-in bathroom exhaust fans are mounted directly into the ducts. Hence the increased requirements for the safety and reliability of the device. Which ones exactly?
First. Increased power. Such fans are installed to create comfortable conditions in several rooms. As a rule, a toilet and a kitchen are connected to the bathroom.
Second. Fire safety. Plastic should not support open flames. An additional requirement is minimal release of aggressive and toxic chemical compounds.
Third. Tightness. There are increased levels of dust and moisture in the channel, the tightness of the housing should prevent them from getting on the rotating elements and electrical contacts. Under certain conditions, condensation may form in the ventilation ducts - the housing must ensure that water does not penetrate into all elements of the unit.
Fourth. The terminal block housing for connecting wires must have a degree of protection of at least IP 44. Electrical cables must be placed in protective tubes, which can be metal or plastic.
Fifth. All bearings are of the closed type on both sides. Special heat-resistant lubricant.
Stages of installing a duct fan in the bathroom
Step 1. Most built-in fans have a round body; select its diameter taking into account the size of the air ducts. Brick air ducts have a square cross-section; the diameter of the built-in fan should be 1–2 cm less than the side of the square. If there are problems with placement, then the lumen of the air duct is slightly expanded with a puncher or manually.
Step 2. Check the operation of the fan and additional equipment. It is advisable to turn it on for an hour, while slightly covering the inlet hole with improvised material. In this way, a load is created on the engine and operation in critical modes is checked.
Step 3. Install the fan into the air duct and fix its position. For fixation, you can use polyurethane foam. It will not only hold the device securely, but also dampen vibration noise.
Important. Use construction foam strictly following the manufacturer’s recommendations - all surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned and moistened. On dry and dusty surfaces the adhesion coefficient is minimal.
How to groove surfaces for wiring in panel houses
This is not as simple a question as it seems. Existing regulations prohibit the cutting of wall panels and floor slabs for electrical wiring; it is also prohibited to lay it at the joints of structural elements. If an urgent need arises, the work must be coordinated with the developers of the building project. Nobody knows how much time and nerves it will take. However, the result of such applications for permits cannot be foreseen. How can you get out of a difficult situation? There are several options, but always remember an important rule - never groove the slabs along their entire length; in extreme cases, you can make a groove no more than 20-30 centimeters long.
What are electronic fan control modules
Electronic devices for household fans have recently appeared on the market and are a mystery to many potential users. To make an informed decision about its installation, you need to familiarize yourself with the operating principle and capabilities of the module.
Depending on the type of device, they can control humidity and temperature in rooms. Humidity is important for bathrooms, and these are the types of fixtures you should buy. The module uses a built-in sensor to monitor relative humidity in the bathroom. Adjusting the temperature in rooms using ventilation systems is very rarely required; do not waste money unnecessarily.
Running fan cables on walls and ceilings under drywall is a thankless job. The theory says that it is impossible to do without dismantling plasterboard boards, but in practice there is a simpler solution.
Step 1. Draw cable routing lines on the surface of the mounted plasterboards.
Step 2. Prepare a basic device. You will need a piece of steel wire Ø ≈ 0.5 mm, 30–40 cm long. One end should be straight, and bend the other with a small hook.
Step 3. Along the drawn line, drill holes with a diameter of two to three centimeters at a distance of 20–30 cm.
Important. Drill carefully, if you come across a profile, then move the hole a little to the side.
Step 4. Insert the wire into the first hole and pull out its end in the second.
Step 5. Tie the wire to the cable and use it to pull the cable under the sheet of drywall. Repeat these steps until the cable is connected to the fan.
After pulling the cable, the holes should be carefully sealed using reinforcing mesh and fine putty.
It can be difficult to find hidden wiring and junction boxes. The ideal option is to use electronic devices for these purposes.
They can be professional and detect cables several meters deep, but they are expensive devices. Currently, quite cheap household appliances from various manufacturers of different quality and reliability are sold. Such devices, by the way, will not only detect invisible cable lines, but also indicate where the circuit is broken. What to do when there is no device?
- Try to find traces of sealing grooves (grooves) for cables on the wall or ceiling. If the builders were dishonest about their work, then they are noticeable. Your next steps depend on the type of fan you choose and where it is located in the bathroom.
- There is no trace of existing wiring - find any outlet or switch. The supply of wires to them must be strictly vertical, all bends must be at right angles, and there must be a distribution box right under the ceiling. Carefully remove the plaster until you find the cover. Further work on connecting the fan can be performed according to the usual algorithm. This method only works if the wiring was installed by responsible professional electricians.
- Use a radio, set it to 100 kHz. Current in wiring creates electromagnetic waves that can be detected at this frequency. Guide the tuned radio along the wall; the location of the noise will indicate the location of the cable.
Conclusion
Experienced electricians give some tips on installing and using a bathroom fan.
Before starting work, prepare all tools and building materials. To check the correct connection, you need to have a tester; the difference is also checked with the same device. What you do next depends on your experience and the characteristics of the room and fan.
Video - Installing a bathroom fan