In general, I have already considered this in a review article, which was devoted to without the use of a format-cutting machine.
Today I decided to dwell in more detail on a method that is accessible to most DIYers - sawing with a jigsaw, since this tool is very widespread. In this lesson I used a household jigsaw Skill 4581LA, by the way, a very good machine.
For the highest quality cut, the following conditions must be met:
- the file should be fine-toothed (a metal file is optimal)
- sawing is carried out at medium speed
In addition, for a cleaner cut, we will use a modification called “scratch” sawing. Its essence lies in the fact that the laminate is scratched to its full depth and its pieces, torn out by the saw teeth, do not extend beyond the scratch boundary. For clarity, here are a few photos.
You need to scratch along the ruler (with any sharp object - I used a perk drill, or you can even use a self-tapping screw.) To prevent the ruler from moving during the scratching process, I additionally secured it with a clamp - maybe a couple.
We scratch to the full depth of the laminate, that is, until sawdust appears in the scratch. 
Then we take the jigsaw and move it so that the file goes as close as possible to the edge of the scratch, without going beyond this border. 
Thus, chips are formed only on the unnecessary side, without going beyond our marking line 
Once again the same cut upon completion. It can be seen that minimal chips still remain, although they can also be found on professional equipment. But the evenness of the cut leaves much to be desired. 
Of course, there are unique people who can cut quite smoothly with a jigsaw. I'm not one of those people. Of course, the class of the tool itself also plays a significant role. As a rule, the file of inexpensive tools is not as stable as in professional models. Due to this, it is pulled towards the sawing.
In general, this method has a right to exist, but I would not recommend putting it on stream.
IN this material We will touch upon such a pressing question for garage craftsmen who deal with furniture made from chipboard, how to cut chipboard without chipping. In fact, the question is quite pressing, because professional equipment (format cutting machine) on which cutting is carried out in furniture shops costs about a million rubles, which not everyone can afford, and the area for its placement should be slightly larger than standard 18 sq. meters. A special feature of such machines is the presence of two saw blades(the first small trim and the second main one, the next one exactly after it). What can replace such a machine in an amateur workshop?
The most optimal replacement, in my opinion, is a plunge-cut circular saw complete with a guide bar. That's what we'll talk about today.
Personally, I use an Elitech plunge-cut saw - this is a domestic budget model, which, despite its simplicity, allows you to achieve good results.
Professional models (for example, Festool saws, they cut even better, but also cost 5 times more).
So, how is a plunge-cut circular saw different from a regular one? Firstly, with its spring-loaded working part with a depth limiter. Due to this, it is very easy to set and change the depth of cut; in addition, the “head” returns to its original position on its own without operator pressure. Secondly, there are mandatory grooves on the sole for integration with the guide rail. Thirdly, there is a rigid design that eliminates backlash (the cut passes strictly in one place).
The tire itself is equipped with an anti-splinter tape (as a rule, it is a tape made of hard rubber - black stripe on the right)
The tape presses the laminate, preventing its pieces from tearing off at the points where the teeth of the saw blade emerge. The tire also has grooves for fixing to workpieces with clamps and tapes for easier sliding (red stripes).
By the way, the Festool saw is equipped with anti-splinter inserts on the side opposite the tire, which makes the cut clean on both sides of the blade.
The tire itself is rigidly attached to the workpiece and does not move. Fixation is carried out with special clamps (their shape is somewhat different from standard F-shaped ones. The price, by the way, too).
All these features allow you to cut in “two passes”. The first one does not cut deep upper layer laminate The second is through sawing to the full depth. At the same time, there is no longer any material at the point where the tooth emerges from the workpiece, so there is nothing to pull out, and accordingly, chips do not form. This is all in theory. Let's look at how this is all done in practice.
The markup is quite traditional. Using a tape measure, mark the start and end points of the cut (you can use a carpenter's square).
We draw a marking line connecting these risks.
We set the guide bar along the line so that the edge of the anti-splinter tape aligns with the markings.
Please note that the tire lies on the part that should remain (there will be no chips on it - the tape on the tire will help). On a suspended piece, they are possible due to the absence of an insert on the saw itself.
You can, of course, saw by laying a sheet of laminated chipboard on a workbench, but this damages the surface of the workbench and you need to use replaceable tabletops (I don’t do this, although with large pieces this may be the only correct method).
The tire is attached to the workpiece in pairs F-shaped clamps, inserted into special grooves on the tire.
We take the saw in our hands and set the depth regulator to 11-12 mm, which corresponds to 5-6 mm of cutting depth (the bar itself “eats” about 5 mm).
We place the saw on the bar, aligning the grooves on the sole with the protrusions on the bar.
We make the first shallow cut. The photo shows that there are a small number of chips on the part of the workpiece not covered with tape.
And one more photo from a different angle.
And a close-up
We change the depth to 35-40 mm and make a second through cut without changing the position of the tire.
Having removed the tire, we see a fairly neat cut that does not require additional processing.
I took a separate photo of the part after removing the tire from above
And with bottom side.
By the way, the cut from below is traditionally cleaner, because in this place the teeth of the disk only cut into the material, they tear it out at the exit.
Let me also note one important fact. Use sharp discs when working. The disk used in this lesson is already quite tired and requires editing. I think that with a zero disk there would be no chips at all.
In addition to the sharpness of the teeth, the quality of the cut is greatly influenced by the material being cut. There are more caustic coatings and more durable coatings. IN in this example 16 mm Lamarty chipboard boards were used - one of the best domestic boards. Egger chipboard or Kronospan are much more susceptible to chipping, and I most likely would not have achieved such a result with this disc.
All these moments come with experience, all that’s left is to invest in the purchase of this device.
In principle, you can cut in “two passes” with ordinary circular saws with homemade guide rails, the main thing is that the sole does not dangle, but doing this is less convenient than using plunge-cut saws, primarily due to the inconvenience of rearranging the sawing depth.
How to cut laminated chipboard without chipping
So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to write another analytical note. This time the topic is sawing laminated chipboard without chipping .
There is a fairly fair opinion that it is possible to cleanly saw laminated chipboard only using professional equipment (that is, a format-cutting machine).
The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades located strictly on the same axis. The first one cuts the chipboard, the second one cuts it right through.
The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive ones))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR AN Amateur.
Of course, if you decide to make a cabinet with your own hands. then it’s better to order a sheet cut (five square meters piece) in the workshop, and then calmly assemble it. BUT WHAT TO DO IF YOU MAKE A MISTAKE IN THE CALCULATIONS AND YOU NEED TO CUT A PIECE OFF. I don’t want to drag myself back to the workshop, but I need to cut.
This article aims to answer this question. The review of options will go from simple to complex. Unfortunately, not all methods will be illustrated (please forgive me in advance), I will try to compensate for this shortcoming with text????
Method 1 - Scratch
The old-fashioned way. Previously it was used for sawing Soviet laminated chipboard coated with a thick layer of varnish. Nowadays it is rarely used. Using a ruler, use an awl or a simple nail to scratch a marking line to the thickness of the decorative coating.
After this, we saw along the line, trying to ensure that the edges of the saw teeth fall exactly into the scratch and not go past it. You can cut with either a jigsaw or a hand saw.
In principle, in the photo on the right you can see that all the chips remained on the piece without a scratch, and they did not go beyond the scratched line.
Detailed tutorial on this method 
The cut is much cleaner than when sawing without a scratch, but chips do occur. It is difficult to keep the tool strictly along the line. So slow.
Short cuts of acceptable quality can be made with a simple jigsaw. To do this, several conditions must be met. 
Firstly, the file must be with minimum size teeth (that is, for metal) and a new one. In this case, on one side (where the teeth enter the material) the cut will be almost clean. On the opposite side, there will be chips, but relatively few.
Secondly, the tool must be fed smoothly, without pressure. The speed should not be set to maximum (slightly above average.
The disadvantage of this method is that it is quite difficult to maintain the strict straightness of the cut, as well as the presence of a small number of chips.
Method 3 - Circular saw
To work with a circular saw, we need a “finishing” saw blade(again, with a small tooth). It is more convenient to make long straight cuts with circular saws than with a jigsaw. But in this case, much more chips are formed (the side where the teeth cut into the material (top) is usually clean. Pieces break off from the opposite side (bottom)).
You can cut like a free-flying saw (it’s quite difficult to guide exactly along the line). It is difficult to cut several identical parts - there is a lot of hassle with markings. 
Same with a saw fixed to the table. When using guides, sawing is much more convenient. Both hands are free. You can use a guide, which will increase the cutting accuracy and allow you to stamp identical parts.
Even if you use a finishing disc, there will be a lot of chips on one side.
Method 4 - Sawing with trimming
This is a modification of working with circular saw. Ideally, it will require plunge saw. but, in principle, you can get by with an ordinary circular saw. To work, we need a ruler (tire), which is fixed to the workpiece with clamps. It can be purchased or homemade (pictured simple circular with a homemade tire). 
The whole trick is to, by analogy with a cutting machine, make two cuts strictly along the same line.
Cutting along a tire (long ruler) will help us with this. The tire is placed along the marking line, after which we first make the first cut, cutting the laminate, with a depth of about 6-10 mm. In this case, the teeth run almost parallel to the surface of the laminate, without tearing out pieces of it. 
If you enlarge the photo it will look something like this
The second cut is through. At the same time, as we remember, no chips are formed at the point where the tooth enters the material. And at the exit point, the laminate has already been cut off and there is nothing to prick.
This is a good way to trim incorrectly marked parts, but you can’t cut the entire cabinet this way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount quite comparable to the formatter (it also, secretly, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with markings. Only straight cuts can be made.
Provides the cleanest possible edge to the workpiece, the quality is no different from the formatter, often even better.
With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, retreating 2-3 mm from the marking line, and then align the line according to the template (I usually use a second piece of laminated chipboard, sawed on a format saw, of a suitable size). The cutter must be copying, that is, with a bearing. 
Very clean cut. The ability to carry out curved cuts, that is, the production of many radius parts. including several completely identical ones. Disadvantages - a lot of hassle: the need for precise marking, preliminary filing of workpieces, setting a template or tire for the router, that is, it is not very suitable for mass use.
http://ruki-zolotye.ru
An electric jigsaw is a device that can be used to cut plywood different thicknesses, and also cut from it various kinds figurines. Let's try to figure out how to properly cut plywood with a jigsaw, and let's start with the fact that the main thing here is strict adherence to safety precautions!
Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to take care of such protective equipment, How:
- glasses;
- gloves;
- special oil.
Basic rules for cutting plywood with a jigsaw
For smooth cutting, you must adhere to the recommendations below.
- At the very beginning, secure the plywood firmly.
- Start sawing across the grain. If you do this lengthwise, cutting will be much more difficult.
- Do not put pressure on the jigsaw. Otherwise, the device will heat up and may even fail.
- If the plywood has increased strength, then coat it tightly with oil. This will make the work much easier.
- Do not operate the jigsaw at low speed for too long, otherwise the engine may overheat. Upon completion of work, clean the tool and lubricate it.
Other process features
We continue the conversation about how to cut plywood using electric jigsaw. If you plan to cut into the material round hole, then first make a small hole and place it in hacksaw blade. You can also use plunge sawing if the previous method does not work.
Note! A jigsaw is also suitable for cutting bevels. Here you can additionally secure the guide so that you can cut smoothly. To avoid chipping, place the plywood face down.
Using an electric jigsaw to cut plywood, you won't need to use any additional accessories. However, they - devices - can still be used to make work easier and more comfortable.
If you are working with plywood of considerable thickness, then use a special sawing table (this way you can work more accurately). Finally, if you are working with material of different thicknesses, then use replaceable inserts that are attached to the tool.
As a result, we note that a jigsaw can be either with a pendulum stroke or a regular one. If the material is thick, the stroke should be normal. In this case, the plywood itself must move vertically and be cut as it moves.
Video - Cutting with a jigsaw correctly
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In the process of making furniture yourself, the contractor may need to cut or trim the laminated chipboard for subsequent use. Of course, it is best to perform this operation by sawing, but if necessary and to reduce labor intensity, it is quite possible to cut laminated chipboard at home (using a jigsaw). Moreover, it is very important to implement this procedure in such a way as to minimize the number of chips and thereby create an even cut.
Why do chips appear?
Before cutting laminated chipboard or laminate using a jigsaw, it is advisable to understand why chips form when cutting sheet material. And the answer here is simple: everything lies in the design of the jigsaw, or rather in the design of the nail file.
So, during the cutting process, the file receives return movements (up and down). And if when the saw moves along the teeth (usually downwards), chips practically do not form, then when the tool moves in the opposite direction, the teeth seem to tear out the top layer of material, thereby forming an unpleasant chip. That is why you can observe an almost perfect cut on the bottom side of the chipboard and a chipped cut along its upper edge.
Ways to minimize chipping
An additional reason for the formation of chips may be misalignment of the saw teeth. Therefore, the first thing you need to do is purchase a tool with a straight cut (often Bosh files). However, it should be taken into account that when long work, such files overheat and may even bend during the cutting process. Therefore, it is necessary to take breaks from work to cool the cutting tool.
However, just replacing the saw blade is not enough and in order to cut laminated chipboard (laminate) with a jigsaw without chipping, you need to make minor modifications to the power tool. Namely, make sure that when the saw moves against the inclination of the tooth, the material does not pull out. For this purpose it is enough to make a persistent platform. This conclusion can be reached by trying to cut through two laminated chipboard sheet. So there will be practically no chips on the lower element.
In order to make a stop pad for a jigsaw, it is enough to cut out a rectangle from any dense material (for example, laminate) with dimensions identical to the dimensions of the sole of the power tool.
Then, along the larger center line, you should make a notch and secure the resulting equipment to the sole of the jigsaw using insulating tape or double-sided tape. All modifications are ready and can be done finishing work in compliance with certain recommendations.
Firstly, as mentioned above, you should use a jigsaw file with a straight cut.
Secondly, in order to better control the cutting process, it is justified to apply a marking line on both sides of the chipboard and check the accuracy of the processing from above and below.
And thirdly, take constant breaks from work to cool the cutting equipment.
Sometimes the solution to this issue can be simply cutting through the laminated layer of material using a mounting knife, and subsequent work with a jigsaw will no longer cause large defects in the form of chips. However this work requires the performer to have certain experience and accuracy.