Adjustment and repair of the spray gun for various malfunctions. Defects when painting a car with a spray gun: causes and methods of elimination. The spray gun nozzle quickly becomes clogged.

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In order to understand how to paint with a spray gun and get a perfectly even and smooth surface, some experience with this tool is required. It is also necessary to understand the technology of the process itself. Precautions should be taken. You only need to work in special glasses and a respirator with two filters.

It is necessary to prepare and properly workplace. It is best to carry out painting in a special chamber with good exhaust hood. However, when using paint on water based Any clean and ventilated room will do.

Install good lighting to better see all the smudges, unpainted areas and sagging. To do this, it is better to place the light source at a small angle to the surface to be painted. In addition, you should carefully clean the surface to be treated with fine-grained sandpaper, since the paint, which is applied using a spray, will reveal all its irregularities.

Preparing paint for work

You need to know how to properly dilute spray paint. It should be carefully filtered to remove lumps. Many paints have a rather thick consistency and therefore need to be thinned. What solvent and how much of it is needed to thin the paint is indicated on the can.

In order to determine the thickness of the paint, you need to pour it into a container and mix it with a stick. If a drop flows from the stick at intervals of about a second, then the viscosity is normal. After the spray gun bottle is filled, you need to start painting. However, there is no need to paint the car itself right away. It's best to start by practicing on a piece of plywood or iron.

It is also necessary to control and properly regulate the mixture of paint and air. For this purpose, the spray gun has special handles that control such processes. It is worth remembering that one adjustment affects the other.

Preparing paint for a spray gun is a necessary procedure. In order for the paint to be ready for filling into the spray gun, it is necessary to add either a solvent or an activator (hardener, accelerator) to it.

It is best to follow the instructions given on the paint can if you have no experience in this matter. If it is written that the activator should be added in a two to one ratio, then you need to take one part of the activator and mix it with two parts of paint.

In addition to the activator, the paint may need to be diluted with a solvent. If the label says 2 to 1 plus 10 percent, this means that to one part of the activator you need to add two parts of paint and 10% solvent, depending on the volume of the working solution.

How to set up the instrument

Correct setting of the spray gun is very important for easier and, most importantly, high-quality painting of the vehicle. This process must be approached comprehensively, since all stages of the spray gun adjustment process are interconnected. Before setting up the spray gun, you need to check 4 main parameters.

  1. Prepare all necessary materials.
  2. Mix selected paint material with the necessary activators in the correct proportions.
  3. Next you need to adjust the torch.
  4. Set the desired pressure level and determine the intensity of paint supply. All these parameters must be adjusted carefully to ensure even and correct paint spraying.

Before setting up the spray gun, you need to find out what elements it consists of. This tool consists of a paint pouring cup, which has a capacity of 100 to 250 ml with replaceable filter, nozzles with a stainless steel needle and pneumatic diffuser, handles with a trigger. There are also three regulators: for the torch, for supplying paint and for pumping air.

After pouring the filtered paint, you need to test the spray gun on a sheet of cardboard or paper. If it is necessary to paint comparatively small area car and you need spot spraying, so it is better to set a small spray width.

If painting occurs on large surfaces, then it is best to work with a wide torch. This will make the process faster and the coating will become uniform. It should be remembered that what smaller size torch, the smaller the air supply should be.

Main malfunctions during operation of the spray gun.

You need to know how to properly configure the spray gun to understand whether it works.

  • The pressure in the spray gun must be set individually depending on the model and the paint that is used (its viscosity).
  • The spray gun should be kept 30 cm from the surface to be painted. You need to make a couple of sharp short-term bursts of paint to evaluate the result.
  • If thick spots of paint remain on the surface, this means that the pressure is quite low.
  • A spot that has irregular shape, for example, in the form of a crescent indicates a malfunction of the nozzle, nozzle, or spray gun head.
  • If the paint print has the correct round shape and the paint is distributed evenly, supplied continuously, which means that air is supplied optimally.
  • To adjust the air supply, remember that the regulators can be built-in or removable.

How to adjust a spray gun with a removable regulator? To control the pressure you need to full power run the regulator where the receiver connects to the hose. For an inline regulator, the pressure is changed only by keeping the trigger pressed. This is necessary in order to avoid sudden sharp changes in air supply when starting work.


Adjustment of the spray gun is necessary before each painting. . The paint supply must begin with a small injection. This will save paint. The adjusting screw should be tightened completely and then loosened slightly. After all, the more you tighten the screw, the smaller the hole in the needle becomes for feeding paint into it. So, by pressing the trigger with varying strength and slowly loosening the regulator, you can gradually achieve a good and suitable level of paint flow.

Problems with the instrument

The spray gun, like any tool, needs periodic cleaning and careful maintenance. It may become clogged and begin to malfunction. The shape of the torch will help you understand why the spray gun does not work. Also, testing the color spot can help you configure the instrument correctly and understand what is wrong with it.

It should be remembered that the ideal is considered to be a paint print with a regular rounded shape, which was applied without sharp transitions, smudges, or large drops.

If there is any deviation from this, it means that the spray gun was adjusted incorrectly or some part is faulty.

  • When spraying paint to the side, you need to clean or replace the air cap or nozzle.
  • A bent color spot indicates a clogged air cap.
  • A thick flame indicates a clogged air vent or one of the air cap wing channels.
  • If there is a color spot in the shape of a figure eight, there is a suspicion of low paint density, or there is very high pressure in the air chamber of the instrument.
  • If the spot is very dense in the middle, it means that the paint is quite thick, or the pressure in the spray gun is very low.

If the paint is applied unevenly, there are several reasons.

  1. Does not work, or the nozzle is poorly secured,
  2. there is a lot of paint in the tank,
  3. the instrument is strongly inclined,
  4. the channels that supply paint to the nozzle are dirty,
  5. The needle is faulty because it is clogged with paint particles or its adjustment screw is not tightened tightly.

Instrument care

All parts of the paint sprayer that interact with paint and varnish materials must be cleaned using a solvent immediately after the procedure. If the instrument is used frequently, then you need to completely disassemble it and wash it at least once a week.


If there is lubricant in the kit, it is worth periodically treating the parts of the spray gun with its help. If lubricant is not provided, it is better to purchase it in special stores. In addition, all seals, needles, gaskets, and air cap require replacement as they wear out, but at least once a year.

You need to know how to clean the spray gun and all its individual parts . The tank ventilation hole should be cleaned immediately after use. Otherwise, even the smallest particle leads to the fact that the paint will constantly flow incorrectly, interrupting and laying down unevenly.

Before putting the spray gun away for a long time, all its parts should be washed and cleaned.

All major malfunctions of the spray gun occur due to its clogging with particles of dried paint. Therefore, you need to clean the instrument thoroughly. First, you need to disconnect the paint tank and drain the remaining paint into a container. Press the trigger and blow out the remaining paint in the supply tube.

Next, you should pour solvent into the container (about half of its volume) and spray it for ten seconds. Then remove the cylinder and blow out the supply tube. This process must be done until completely pure solvent comes out of the sprayer.

It should be remembered that paint made with water can cause destruction of aluminum parts. That is why it is necessary to ensure that the parts are well cleaned and dried. At bad work lever, when it is too tight, you need to either change the rod air valve, clean the needle, change the paint head, loosen the nut.

If there is a defect in the air cap holes on the side, they should be cleaned. If the torch moves away from the axis of the tool, then you need to clean (change) the pneumatic head.

If the torch produces an incorrect asymmetrical spot, it means that the painting head is faulty or the nozzle is damaged. The center hole of the air cap may also be damaged. We need to change them.

If the spray gun does not spray paint, this may be due to a lack of pressure, a clogged nozzle, blocking the access of paint or air, or a faulty needle. It is necessary to adjust the pressure indicators, then you can try to clean the needle, nozzle, and check the paint flow process. If such measures do not bring results, it is best to purchase a new needle and head.

If the torch operates intermittently, then most likely the nozzle cone is faulty, the gaskets are worn out or damaged. They need to be replaced.

This way you can get rid of more paint. However, to completely clean the entire spray gun, you must completely disassemble it, following the manufacturer's instructions. After the disassembly process, all parts are placed in a jar filled with solvent.

Cleaning of the supply channels is carried out using a nylon brush. The air cap and nozzle should be cleaned very well, for example with a toothbrush. Before assembling the tool, lubricate the nozzle, fluid needle, and threads on the air cap with Vaseline. After assembly, wipe the entire spray gun soft cloth soaked in solvent.

How to paint a car correctly

Before setting up a spray gun for painting a car, you should study the entire algorithm for such actions. In order to paint your car efficiently, you must first test the nozzle. To do this, you need to set the torch to spray in a horizontal position and open the air supply screw to full power.

Then adjust the paint flow screw so that the next time you press the trigger, you get the correct shape of the color spot. To obtain a thin and uniform final layer, it is necessary to carry out local circular spraying without using spraying in one direction.

Paint application should occur in a uniform circular motion and perpendicular to the surface with a radius of less than 8 cm. The trigger should be released after each local spraying, which will ensure the quality of painting.

To begin with, it is better to paint small and barely noticeable parts, because later it will be much more difficult to paint them. Before finishing painting, you should make sure that the base layer has already dried and become uniform in structure.

To accurately maintain the proportions, a measuring ruler is needed. You can also use a special plastic vessel, which should be graduated evenly. This will allow you to accurately mark the portion of paint, hardener and solvent.


When painting a car with a metallic effect or with special protection from environmental factors, a two-layer coating is required. First, apply the base paint, and then acrylic varnish.

All parts of the composition must be mixed according to the instructions, which should be indicated on the pack. Activation is not needed for the paint, since it dries under the influence of the evaporating solvent.

Feed regulation is based on the fact that the adjustment screw acts as a limiter under the action of a needle made of stainless steel. Due to this design, the needle does not completely cover the outlet hole for paints and varnishes.

With this design, the person working with this tool has the opportunity to adapt by opening the screw to full power and manually pressing the trigger with varying strength.

To avoid paint smudges at the edges of the surface, it is better to press the trigger of the spray gun before moving it along the part. Then, having started the transition, do not release the trigger until it is completely completed.

When painting the inner corner, to prevent paint accumulation, you need to direct the center of the torch, shifting it to one side. Painting is done in two steps, once for each side of the corner. Sometimes when painting internal corners the finish creates a hazy cloud. To avoid this, it is necessary to reduce the paint supply and air pressure.

When dyeing external corners It is almost impossible to prevent excess paint from appearing on an already painted surface. It is better to paint all sides of the corner at one time. You need to start painting the corner from the top.

If you follow all the points listed above, then there should be no problems when painting. The surface should be flat and smooth. If you do not follow them, then it is unlikely that you will be able to avoid unevenness, and the coating will take much longer to dry.

Painting is one of the most complex species bodywork repair work. It takes a lot of patience and effort to make a paint job truly durable and attractive. Can't do without special tools. If a car is painted without following the technology, after some time defects may appear on the surface. Next, we will talk about exactly what problems arise when painting with a spray gun and how to successfully solve them.

Problem #1: boiling varnish or paint

An example of boiling varnish or paint. Click on photo to enlarge.

The reason for the appearance of bubbles in the thickness of the paint may be following errors allowed during painting:

  • incorrect setting of the spray gun, as a result of which it feeds excessively a large number of paints;
  • improper dilution of paint, resulting in it being too viscous;
  • slow movements of the sprayer, resulting in too thick a layer of paint on the surface, or too large overlap the previous layer is the next one.

To eliminate such defects, the pigment is completely dried, then sanded and another layer is applied - the finishing layer.

Problem #2: cloudy paintwork

The main reason for a cloudy surface is moisture getting into the paint during its application. How and why does this happen?

  • painting is carried out in a room with low temperature, high humidity or an improperly organized ventilation system, causing drafts;
  • a low-quality or incorrectly selected solvent is used. If the room is cold and humid, you should use a special product, and in a minimal amount, otherwise the paint will take a very long time to dry;
  • When painting, an incorrectly adjusted spray gun supplies too much air, causing the solvent to evaporate too quickly, the painted surface to cool, and condensation to form on it.

Elimination of paint defects associated with clouding of the coating requires increased temperature in the workshop and the organization of proper air circulation. You should wait until the pigment has completely dried, then spray it onto the defective area. special solvent. For achievement maximum effect the surface is polished.

Problem No. 3: the appearance of craters

Craters are small funnel-shaped depressions in paint coating– are formed for several reasons:

  • the surface is not properly prepared for painting, in particular, washed with soapy water or liquid detergent, resulting in traces of silicone remaining on it. They are subject to mandatory removal;
  • during the preparatory work the surface came into contact with dust, fluffy rags, polishing paste and was not properly cleaned;
  • Oil got into the spray gun air duct.

There is only one way to deal with craters: sand the surface and apply a new coat of paint.

Problem #4: Cracks in the paintwork on sharp edges

Immediately after painting or after some time, defects in the form of small gaps and cracks may appear on sharp bends of parts. The reason may be one of the following shortcomings during painting:

  • applying paint in several layers without intermediate drying, as a result of which solvent accumulates in the thickness of the paint. This is what causes cracking;
  • use of poorly mixed paint and incorrectly selected solvent. If the paint is not well mixed before application, the pigment will be distributed unevenly and the coating structure will become spongy. If you made a mistake in choosing a solvent and chose a composition that is too fast-acting, you may encounter significant difficulties: the paint will adhere very poorly;
  • poor surface cleaning before local painting, as a result of which the primer, and with it the paint, will “slide” from the bends of the part due to low adhesion;
  • blowing off the primer layer compressed air immediately after its application, facilitating rapid drying of the coating, but preventing complete evaporation of the solvent and the release of excess air.

Such defects are eliminated by removing the top layer of paint and applying a new one.

Problem No. 5: “shagreen” or “orange peel” on the body of your car

Shagreen on the body of a car. Click on photo to enlarge.

The appearance of this defect can be caused by various reasons:

  • incorrect setting of the spray gun or non-compliance with the painting technology (unregulated pressure, weak paint supply or too large a distance between the nozzle and the surface, etc.);
  • too much heat in a repair shop. Such conditions require the use of special slow-evaporating solvents;
  • insufficiently thorough mixing of the painting composition and its non-compliance with viscosity standards;
  • too thin layer of paint;
  • painting in several layers without intermediate drying or drying with compressed air.

In this case, paint defects are eliminated by sanding with abrasive sandpaper (the grain size depends on the degree of damage to the coating) followed by polishing. In the most severe cases, it may be necessary to reapply the final coat of paint after sanding.

Problem #6: varnish or paint smudges

An example of paint smudges. Click on photo to enlarge.

Smudges are one of the most common defects when painting, especially if it is carried out by a non-professional. They occur if:

  • paint is applied too thickly or without drying each layer before forming the next;
  • the air supply from the spray gun was carried out under excessively high pressure;
  • paint supply speed exceeded;
  • The gun nozzle is too close to the surface.

In most cases, it is possible to get rid of smudges by grinding and polishing, but sometimes repainting the surface is required.

Problem #7: dusty deposits

If the painting technology is violated, dry and semi-dry drops of paint may stick to a freshly painted surface. The main reason for the appearance of such a defect is the use of a quickly evaporating solvent in warm and dry air conditions in the workshop, as a result of which the paint dries very quickly. In addition, the reason for the sprayer supplying semi-dry paint may be its incorrect settings or a violation of the technology, namely overspraying onto adjacent areas that are not to be painted.

If a defect has formed on the varnish, it can be easily removed by sanding. Plaque on synthetic enamel is much more difficult to sand off, so it is recommended to sand the surface “wet” and then apply a new coat of paint.

Problem #8: Porous surface

Pores - small holes in the paintwork - appear for several reasons:

  • the spray gun is incorrectly configured or used incorrectly (insufficiently intense spraying or painting at too close a distance from the surface);
  • the presence of drafts in the workshop: air gets inside the paint and speeds up its drying, while all the solvent does not have time to evaporate;
  • varnish or paint is applied to a layer formed using “dry” spray technology;
  • when fed from a gun, the paint becomes contaminated with oil or becomes moist;
  • insufficient drying of intermediate layers, especially when working with “heavy” coatings;
  • incorrect technique for working with a putty knife;
  • incorrect choice of area for puttying or painting.

Troubleshooting

If the damage to the surface by pores is minor, it can be removed using fine-grained sandpaper. More severe cases may require wet sanding and reapplication of a final coat of paint or varnish. It will be possible to get rid of too noticeable pores only after sanding to metal and re-painting.

If we are talking about a layer of putty with pores, then it should be covered with another layer, while the putty knife is directed strictly perpendicular to the surface to ensure maximum filling of the pores with putty.


In order to prevent the appearance of pores on the paintwork, it is recommended to keep under strict control the temperature in the workshop, the viscosity of the paint, the type of solvent - in short, everything that affects the drying speed of the paint.

Problem #9: garbage and dirt

Foreign particles on the paintwork appear due to:

  • using an unstrained working mixture of paint and solvent;
  • the presence of grinding dust on the surface to be painted;
  • settling of dust and other particles;
  • low quality filters,
  • insufficient cleaning of the gun before painting.

Elimination of this defect is carried out by stripping the coating to an undamaged layer and then applying finishing layers paint again. Cleaning is not carried out only if the foreign particles on the paintwork are frozen drops of paint sprayed from a gun.

Problem #10:

An example of a sharp color transition. Click on photo to enlarge.

This difference is especially noticeable when painting damaged areas locally. A clear border of colors or color distortion is a consequence of such defects as:

  • poor mixing of paint;
  • applying paint too thin layer, so that the primer shines through;
  • violation of metallic effect painting technology;
  • interaction of old and new layers of paint.

In order to smooth out the color transition, the surface is treated with fine-grained sandpaper and then covered with another layer of paint.

Torch imprint issues

The top and bottom of the torch are spraying too much paint. This means that the paint or air nozzle is clogged or damaged. After repeated testing with the torch rotated 180°, the nozzles are cleaned and, if necessary, replaced with new ones.

A stream of paint forms a curved spot on the surface, similar to a banana. This defect indicates that the air nozzle is dirty or damaged. The malfunction can be eliminated by cleaning or replacing the nozzle.

The flow of paint is interrupted. There is air in the paint line. In this case, you should check whether there is enough paint in the spray tank and whether the paint nozzle is loose.

There is excess ink at the top and bottom of the print. The problem is solved by reducing the paint supply, which, in turn, is achieved by adjusting the needle and the intensity of the air supply. You can also replace the nozzle with a smaller one. The cause of this defect may also be a malfunction of the needle or screw.


The torch imprint is divided into two parts. The situation can be corrected by increasing the paint supply or reducing the air supply. In addition, you should check whether the vent hole in the tank is blocked.

Not enough paint in the center of the spot. The reason for this defect is that the ratio of paint and air supply is disrupted. To return the torch print to its normal shape, you should adjust these settings.

Lens-shaped spot. This malfunction is also associated with incorrect paint supply and air pressure settings. In addition, the reason may be that the paint viscosity is too high. The problem can be solved by adjusting the spray gun and diluting the paint with a solvent.

Why doesn't the spray gun work? Many people, most likely, when faced with such a problem, take spanners, different sizes screwdrivers, disassemble the device and try to figure out what could be the cause of the breakdown, and most importantly, how to put it back together correctly, without the remains of the parts that make up the device.

This article invites you to get acquainted with what types of spray guns there are, the reasons for them frequent breakdowns, and how to troubleshoot problems yourself.

Any paint sprayer is a very delicate device and is not suitable for neglect, and breakdowns are not always the reason for the low cost of the tool; this can also happen with a well-known, well-established brand.

Very often the causes of breakdowns can be:

  • Incorrect operation of the spray gun (see).
  • Neglect elementary rules when caring for the instrument.

Before disassembling the spray gun into components and parts, you need to become familiar with the types of these tools.

They can be:

  • Manual(cm. ). Such designs with a manual supercharger, in appearance and principle of operation, resemble a conventional pump. Here, pressure is injected into the cavity with paint independently, and then enters the nozzle.

Such a tool is most suitable for spraying liquid whitewash or a water emulsion of liquid consistency, and with a fully inflated tank it will only last for a few minutes of painting, after which you will need to pump up the pump again.

The main disadvantages of such a tool:

  1. not high working pressure, unable to lift paint of a thicker consistency;
  2. low efficiency and efficiency;
  3. a rapid drop in the working pressure in the tank, which requires constant pumping.

Significant advantages of a spray gun with a manual supercharger - simple design, and not too much high price. This allows any damage to be repaired with electrical tape.

  • Electric.

Tip: An electric spray gun is a specific tool. When choosing it, you must clearly understand for what tasks it will be used.

Electric spray guns differ in the power of the motor that delivers the paint to the nozzle.

Repair electric spray gun associated, most often with a burnt-out engine, which you can hardly repair yourself. In addition, the price of a high-quality device is not too low, and it is not always rational to take risks by performing repairs yourself; it is better to pay for repairs to specialists working in the service center.

  • Pneumatic. This is the most professional tool when painting walls (see). It is the most difficult to repair.

This device consists entirely of mechanical components. There are no complex electronics here, but it often breaks down due to prolonged or not entirely correct use.

Advantages of pneumatic tools:

  1. the ability to adjust the operating pressure, limited only by the power of the compressor and the size of the device’s receiver;
  2. with a pneumatic spray gun you can spray all types of paints, even with a thick consistency, which depends on the settings of the tool;
  3. repairing the unit is quite easy to do independently, without the help of specialists;
  4. By giving the jet the required configuration, it is possible to adjust the spray pattern.

The cost of a pneumatic spray gun varies over a wide range, which allows you to make a choice according to your available funds.

Before repairing any device you must:

  • Get acquainted with its design.
  • Correctly diagnose the problem.
  • Determine the node where the breakdown occurred.

The spray gun contains:

  • The body of the gun, with a handle, a barrel for paint, and a trigger for feeding the mixture.
  • Solution injection mechanism, which is equipped with a nozzle and an adjusting bolt.
  • Spray regulator.
  • Air supply regulator.

The injection mechanism consists of several components:

  • A needle that opens and closes the hole for supplying air and coloring composition.
  • The regulator bolt, when it is turned, paint consumption is controlled.
  • A locking nut used to hold the needle.
  • The sealing ring and the hole in it allow air to be evenly distributed around the circumference of the nozzle.
  • Spray nuts, the part has one hole in the center and two small ones at the edges, which allows you to adjust the size of the “torch”.

Tip: Each product comes with detailed instructions, in which the tool is shown in section. Before work, you should carefully study the design so that after repair there are no “extra” parts left.

How to diagnose the device and possible breakdowns

The table shows the main breakdowns of the spray gun and the reasons leading to this:

Fault nameCauses of failure
Spray torch oval shape and does not respond to changes in the position of the adjusting bolt
  • The shutoff valve in the adjustment unit has broken off. This problem often occurs with low quality instruments.
  • The side holes in the supply nozzle are clogged.
  • The sealing rubber in the control unit needs to be replaced.
The paint flow is uneven and spits out in chunks
  • The consistency of the paint is too thick and is not intended for this type of spray gun.
  • There is an accumulation of condensate in the air hoses; it needs to be drained. This occurs very often during the cold season.
  • The holes in the outlet nozzle are clogged.
  • A large amount of solid particles has accumulated in the paint container and cannot pass through the needle. You should drain the composition, rinse the instrument thoroughly and pour in a new composition, but passed through a sieve.
The trigger does not return to the reverse position when released
  • The piston located on the feed needle is ignited. The instrument is disassembled and thoroughly washed, and the spraying is repeated.
  • The spring located under the bolt that adjusts the feed needle has sagged.
  • Due to rust, the moving mechanisms of the trigger stopped moving.
  • The rubber seal located on the needle has dried out and the piston has moved from its place.
Paint drips from the nozzle when it is closed
  • The needle became sharp and stopped blocking the nozzle.
  • The sagging spring does not press the needle.
  • Solid particles have entered the assembly and interfere with the correct movement of the needle.
  • The trigger does not recline to the desired position.
The spray pattern constantly changes direction
  • The hole in the nozzle is clogged.
  • There are clots or foreign objects in the feed mechanism or ink tank.
  • The bolt that adjusts the torch has broken.
The spray gun does not spray paint after pressing the trigger
  • The needle is not moved by the trigger mechanism.
  • The feed unit is clogged with paint or foreign objects.
  • Very thick paint

Tip: Typically a repair kit for such a tool consists of several bolts and sealing rubber bands that come complete with it, but if there are no parts, you should immediately purchase several rubber seals, which spoil quite often.

How to maintain and repair a spray gun

Taken as an example pneumatic spray gun low pressure. The main problem with many units is the use alkyd paints. After finishing work, the sprayer must be cleaned and rinsed well.

Otherwise gun:

  • It will get clogged.
  • It will spray unevenly.

Advice: All elements for spray guns should be cleaned and washed - they are all practically “overgrown” with paint, the layers of which must be washed off with solvent or gasoline.

When servicing the spray gun:

  • The most problems arise with the valve drying to the cylinder, as a result of which it cannot be moved. The use of solvents in this case weakens the dried coating layer and allows the unit to be cleaned. All actions are done very carefully so as not to damage such a small part.
  • The injectors and nozzle become clogged no less than the valve. In this case, the main part of the assembly is the needle, which participates in the formation of the torch and determines the quality painting works. To clean such small parts, use a brush with a solvent. Here everything must be done very carefully, as can be seen in the photo, in order to prevent the formation of scratches in the nozzle itself, which can cause the paintwork to settle in the grooves and lead to distortion of the torch shape.

  • When cleaning equipment, it is better to use specially designed SATA needles and brushes that do not scratch the nozzle.
  • If the moisture separator for the spray gun, which is a filter for the tool and paintwork materials pass through it, is very clogged, then it can be cleaned with the same tools and materials as the nozzle.
  • It is very important to use paint materials entering the spray nozzle without lumps, for which the paint container must always be clean. This is due to the fact that the paint that has hardened on its walls will peel off and then mix with the liquid and get into the conductive parts.
  • If there is a pressure gauge for the spray gun and a pressure regulator, they must be cleaned of dried layers of paint, which can lead to malfunctions in their operation and, therefore, to poor-quality finishing.

After all the cleaning activities have been completed, the sprayer must be reassembled in the same order as disassembly, but after the components and parts have completely dried. You can dry them with a hairdryer. Rubbing elements, including the gun trigger rod and needles, must be lubricated with silicone-free lubricant.

Proper operation will make any spray gun a good, inexpensive, reliable assistant when carrying out repairs in the house, and the video will tell you how to do it correctly.

The spray gun is used for painting any surfaces. The paint applies smoothly, its consumption is minimal, and little time is required to work. But in order for the quality of the painted surface to be excellent and the paint itself to be consumed as little as possible, adjustment of the spray gun is necessary. Why exactly is this being done? For each type of dye, the conditions for feeding the mixture are different. The pressure and spray of paint can be completely different. Therefore, before using the equipment, it is necessary to correctly adjust the spray gun and conduct a test to determine its suitability for work. After this, you can safely start coloring; it won’t take much time.

Basic rules for adjusting the spray gun

Be sure to adjust the equipment before starting work. Otherwise it will not work properly. If adjustments are not made, the paint consumption will be too high and the quality will decrease. To make adjustments, special adjustment screws are used. They allow you to set the required size of the torch for painting and the shape of the spray pattern. For adjustment, a special test is used, i.e. applying a coloring composition to a sheet of paper or drywall.

The passage hole and the amount of paint to be sprayed are pre-selected. It is necessary to choose at what distance the equipment should be kept, how to dilute the composition so that it is not too liquid or thick. You can set the spray pressure. It all depends on what kind of paint is used for the job. Typically the operating pressure is 3-5 bar, but individual compositions may have their own requirements. During this adjustment, the shape of the cone can be changed.

In order for paint consumption to be economical, it is necessary to determine not only the supply, but also the degree of its dilution. Only test staining is used, since other methods can obtain exact value will not work. It is necessary to carefully examine the paint stain, its quality, intensity. This will allow you, in just half an hour, to accurately dilute the paint for use, determine the distance and other indicators. If the paint is too liquid, the stain will have drips and will not be of good quality. To avoid such situations, you must first dilute a small amount of paint, and not all at once. In this case, it will be possible to eliminate unnecessary costs.

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Performance tests

To properly adjust the spray gun, it is necessary to carry out a number of tests, which are not very complicated. This will increase productivity and minimize paint consumption.

Such tests include:

  • checking the quality of paint spraying;
  • checking for the torch imprint, its correctness;
  • checking the uniformity of paint distribution.

The spray quality test is simple. It is necessary to apply a strip of paint using a spray gun to a piece of drywall. After this, you can evaluate the size of the droplets and the uniformity of the stripe application. The stripe itself will be most intense in the center, and towards the edges it will become less uniform.

The shape of the imprint for a torch is determined differently. You need to hold the spray gun on at a distance of 15-20 cm from the surface for a second. If the paint print is smooth and well defined, then the equipment is adjusted normally. If there are numerous splashes around, then the pressure is too high and needs to be reduced. If the spot is uneven, then the pressure is insufficient or the holes are clogged.

Even distribution of paint is also important to avoid drips during application. If they are, then most likely the pressure is insufficient. The spray gun is configured as follows during testing:

  1. It is necessary to ensure that the nozzle and all holes are free of paint and correspond to the type of paint composition.
  2. After this, a sheet or piece of drywall is attached in a vertical position (a piece of 50*50 cm is sufficient).
  3. The pressure is set as required by the instructions.
  4. After this, a test strip is painted so that it can be evaluated and adjusted.
  5. Vertical and horizontal stripes are carried out to determine the uniformity of the applied paint and the quality of the surface.

After the assessment, the following conclusions are drawn:

  1. The torch is adjusted properly if the spot is symmetrical and even. The height and width of the resulting spot must fully comply with what is stated in the instructions. The paint is distributed evenly without splashing.
  2. The torch produces crescent-shaped stripes. This indicates that the nozzle is dirty or damaged, as is the center hole or side holes of the air special head.
  3. When turned on, the torch takes the shape of a figure eight. This means that the paint is liquid or high pressure is applied, it must be reduced.
  4. Intermittent torch. This is a sign that there is little paint left in the tank; the level needs to be checked. Air may have gotten into the channels that supply paint. In this case, they need to be cleaned. The tank vents are dirty and need cleaning.
  5. The torch is supplied in the form of a drop. In this case, the spray gun is held incorrectly relative to the surface. The nozzle may also be dirty.
  6. The torch is issued in the form of an ellipse. IN in this case Thick paint is used or the supply is high and the operating pressure is too low.

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Possible problems and solutions to the problem

A spray gun is a simple piece of equipment, but such a tool can break or begin to work incorrectly. There are few such cases, but you need to be aware of how you can repair the equipment yourself. Among the most common problems when working with a spray gun are:

  1. The air cap may be damaged, as indicated by its center hole. It is best to immediately replace the entire broken unit if it cannot be cleaned. But before such a replacement, it is better to try to clean the hole; for this, a thin needle is used. When, after cleaning, the nozzle still does not produce a normal stream of paint, the unit is replaced. This is not so difficult to do; you just need to purchase a head suitable for a specific spray gun; it can be found in any hardware store.
  2. Defects were found at the side hole of the head. Most often this is due to the fact that it is clogged with paint if the spray gun is not washed after use. They are easy to clean; a needle is used for this.
  3. The nut on the guide bushing may be overtightened. If this happens, then you need to carefully clean the air valve stem, then shift the location of the torch and slightly loosen the position of the nut. The cleaning needle is carefully inserted into the head of the spray gun, the rod is replaced if necessary, but it can also be cleaned.
  4. The stroke of the paint feed lever is too tight. There can be several reasons for this problem, but most often it is a dirty air valve. It needs to be cleaned properly. If this measure does not work, then you should check the tension of the nut; perhaps it is too tight. Among possible solutions- replacing the rod, cleaning the needle, complete replacement painting head.

During adjustment, the torch is set to a position directed along the axis of the device.

In this case, it may well be that the air cap and side holes are clogged. It is necessary to inspect them, and then, if necessary, thoroughly clean or completely replace the pneumatic head of the equipment.

Both beginners and experienced craftsmen often encounter the problem that the airbrush spits, spattering the paint unevenly. We suggest you figure out why this happens and how you can fix such a device defect?

About the design of the airbrush

Airbrushes are different and, first of all, they differ in the way they apply paint to the place where it mixes with air. Accordingly, the tank can be located at the top, bottom and side.

The last option is convenient because you can draw with such a device from almost any angle. The lower type of eyeliner, when compared with the upper one, involves the use of more liquid paint and more high pressure. However, many airbrush artists prefer this option due to the fact that it is less likely to spit when applying paint.

Types of feed control airbrushes:

  • single - in such models, only the air flow is regulated by a trigger, and the air mixes with the paint, carrying it along with it. These airbrushes are the simplest and most inexpensive;
  • double dependent ones allow you to simultaneously influence both the air and needle valves with one trigger, without stopping the drawing process;
  • double independent ones are characterized by the fact that the lever can be moved in two directions, performing the function of supplying air and paint separately. Such devices are considered the most universal;
  • automatic trigger (very easy to use and ideal for beginners).

The thickness of the line applied to the surface depends on the diameter of the nozzle used. The optimal size is 0.2 or 0.3 mm. If you need to replace the nozzle with a thinner one, then you also need to change the needle or sharpen the one that is standing. It should be noted that the thinner the nozzle, the more sensitive it is to the density of the paint. When replacing the needle, it is important that the oil seal fits tightly to it, otherwise paint may leak.

The airbrush nozzle can be threaded or conical. The first option is the most common. An airbrush with a threaded nozzle usually includes a special key for removal and fixation. The nozzle can be removed without much difficulty, but you should be careful when installing it, as it is quite fragile.

A cone nozzle is more convenient in this regard. To fix it, you just need to insert it into the socket and press the cap. The cone nozzle is also good because it is self-centering and does not require sealing.

The nozzle may become clogged due to a mismatch between the paint density and its diameter. This often results in the airbrush spitting. Therefore, the thinner the nozzle, the lighter the consistency of the paint that needs to be poured into the tank.

And let’s add a few words about oil seals, because if they are chosen incorrectly, then paint leakage is guaranteed. They should fit tightly, but it is better to choose Teflon ones, which last longer and are more resistant to aggressive nitro-containing paints.

Reasons why your airbrush spits

There are seven main factors that can cause an airbrush to spit. All these problems and ways to solve them are presented in this table.

The reason why the airbrush spitsTroubleshooting options
Paint consistency is too thickPlace 2-3 drops of solvent into the device tank and check the operation of the airbrush
The airbrush is cloggedRemove the nozzle and needle and thoroughly clean the parts. This can be done by immersing it in the solvent used to thin the paint for five minutes.
Lumps and foreign inclusions in paintStrain the paint material through a fine sieve or double layer of nylon
Insufficient or excessive pressureSet the pressure level to 2 atm.
Too thin coloring compositionAdd more paint to reduce the “wateriness” of the solution
Low strength of fastenings of airbrush elementsCheck that everything is properly tightened and tighten the connections if necessary.
Worn seal, nozzle or needleReplace parts with new ones

Liquid paint in combination with a loose fit of the needle to the nozzle can lead to the coloring composition flowing into the crown and inevitably drying out at the tip of the needle. As a result, it becomes clogged, and the way out of the situation is to clean the crown and increase the level of pressure at the outlet. If the paint is thick, the same problems may occur, but you can try the same solution. A specific reason for the airbrush starting to spit can be indicated by characteristic smudges or the shape of the “spit.”

For example, if there is a blot in the form of a spider with thick legs or, as they are also called, “cilia,” then most likely it is used too much liquid paint or the air pressure is too high. If the device spits out small splashing dots, then this, on the contrary, indicates low pressure or density paint composition.

Please note that the consistency of the paint should ideally resemble milk.

According to some users, Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner liquid cleans the needle well. Sometimes the cause of an airbrush malfunction may be that the needle or nozzle is in contact with the crown at the exit. As a result, this leads to the fact that some part of the paint and varnish composition gets onto the surface of the part being painted, and some begins to accumulate in the crown and thus clogs it. To avoid this, experienced airbrush artists recommend purchasing a device with a self-centering nozzle.

There are also situations when washing the airbrush does not help, and it continues to spit. In these cases, installing a tighter gasket on the nozzle threads may help. Some craftsmen obtain such small oil seals by disassembling old or even new simple gas lighters. The gasket is installed, the nozzle is screwed on, the seal is cut along the edges to size.

Prevention and care

You can prevent your airbrush from spitting and extend its service life. proper care. Here are some useful rules:

  • When replacing paint, clean the tank;
  • After drawing, immediately disassemble and wash the airbrush thoroughly;
  • clean the device from acrylic compositions you need a special product or alcohol;
  • To clean the nozzle, also use small brushes specially designed for this purpose.

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