Schemes for flooring on the ground in a house, basement, garage or bath

In houses without basements, the floor of the first floor can be made according to two schemes:

• with support on the ground - with a screed on the ground or on logs;
• based on walls - like a ceiling over a ventilated underground.

Which of the two options would be better and easier?

In homes without a basement, ground flooring is a popular solution for all ground floor spaces. Floors on the ground - cheap, simple and easy to perform, it is also beneficial to arrange in the basement, garage, bathhouse and other utility rooms. A simple design, the use of modern materials, the placement of a heating circuit in the floor (warm floor), make such floors comfortable and attractively priced.

In winter, the backfill under the floor always has a positive temperature. For this reason, the soil at the base of the foundation freezes less - the risk of frost heaving of the soil is reduced. In addition, the thickness of the thermal insulation of the floor on the ground may be less than that of the floor above the ventilated underground.

It is better to refuse the floor on the ground if it is necessary to backfill with soil at too high a height, more than 0.6-1 m. The cost of backfilling and compacting the soil in this case may be too high.

The floor on the ground is not suitable for buildings on a pile or columnar foundation with a grillage, which is located above the ground.

Three basic schemes for laying floors on the ground

In the first variant a concrete monolithic reinforced floor slab rests on load-bearing walls, Fig.1.

After the concrete hardens, the entire load is transferred to the walls. In this option, a monolithic reinforced concrete floor slab plays the role of a floor slab and must be calculated for the standard load of floors, have appropriate strength and reinforcement.

The soil is actually used here only as a temporary formwork when constructing a reinforced concrete floor slab. Such a floor is often referred to as a "suspended ground floor".

A suspended floor on the ground has to be done if there is a high risk of shrinkage of the soil under the floor. For example, when building a house on peat bogs or when the height of bulk soil is more than 600 mm. The thicker the backfill layer, the higher the risk of significant subsidence of the fill soil over time.

Second option - this is the floor on the foundation - a slab, when a reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building, serves as a support for the walls and the base for the floor, Fig.2.

Third option provides for the installation of a monolithic concrete slab or the laying of wooden logs in the gaps between the bearing walls supported by bulk soil.

Here, the floor slab or logs are not connected to the walls. The load of the floor is completely transferred to the bulk soil, Fig.3.

It is the last option to correctly call the floor on the ground, which will be our story.

Floors on the ground should provide:

• thermal insulation of premises from the conditions of energy saving;
• comfortable hygienic conditions for people;
• protection against penetration into the premises of ground moisture and gases - radioactive radon;
• prevent the accumulation of water vapor condensate inside the floor structure;
• reduce the transmission of impact noise to adjacent rooms along the building structures.

Backfilling a soil cushion for a floor on the ground

The surface of the future floor is raised to the required height by installing a cushion of non-porous soil.

Before starting work on backfilling, be sure to remove the top soil layer with vegetation. If this is not done, then the floor will begin to settle over time.

Any soil that can be easily compacted can be used as a material for the pillow device: sand, fine gravel, sand and gravel, and with a low level of groundwater - sandy loam and loam. It is advantageous to use the soil left in the area from, the well and (except for peat and black soil).

The soil of the pillow is carefully compacted in layers (not thicker than 15 cm.) by tamping with spilling the soil with water. The degree of soil compaction will be higher if a mechanical rammer is used.

Large crushed stone, broken bricks, pieces of concrete should not be laid in the pillow. There will still be voids between large fragments.

The thickness of the pillow from bulk soil is recommended to be made within 300-600 mm. It is still not possible to compact bulk soil to the state of natural soil. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of loose soil can lead to too much and uneven subsidence of the floor.

To protect against ground gases - radioactive radon, it is recommended to make a layer of compacted rubble or expanded clay in the pillow. This underlying capping layer is made 20 cm thick. The content of particles with a size of less than 4 mm in this layer should be no more than 10% by weight. The filtration layer must be ventilated.

The top layer of expanded clay, in addition to protection from gases, will serve as additional thermal insulation for the floor. For example, a layer of expanded clay with a thickness of 18 cm. in terms of heat-saving capacity corresponds to 50 mm. foam. To protect against punching of insulation boards and waterproofing films, which in some floor structures are laid directly on the backfill, a leveling layer of sand is poured over the compacted layer of crushed stone or expanded clay, twice the thickness of the backfill fraction.

Prior to filling the soil cushion, it is necessary to lay water and sewer pipes at the entrance to the house, as well as pipes of the soil ventilation heat exchanger. Or lay cases for mounting pipes in them in the future.

Ground floor construction

In private housing construction, the floor on the ground is arranged according to one of three options:

• ground floor with concrete screed;
• ground floor with dry screed;
• ground floor on wooden beams.

A concrete floor on the ground is noticeably more expensive in the device, but more reliable and durable than other designs.

Concrete floor on the ground

Floors on the ground are a multi-layer structure, Fig.4. Let's go through these layers from bottom to top:

1. Laid on a soil cushion ground filter materialmoisture contained in freshly placed concrete (e.g. polyethylene film at least 0.15 mm.). The film is put on the walls.
2. Along the perimeter of the walls of the room, to the total height of all layers of the floor, fix separating edge layer from strips with a thickness of 20 - 30 mm cut from insulation boards.
3. Then arrange a monolithic concrete floor preparation thickness 50-80 mm. from lean concrete of class B7.5-B10 on crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm. This is a technological layer designed for sticking waterproofing. The radius of the junction of concrete to the walls 50-80 mm. Concrete preparation can be reinforced with steel or fiberglass mesh. The mesh is laid in the lower part of the slab with a protective concrete layer of at least 30 mm. For reinforcing concrete foundations, it can alsouse steel fiber length 50-80 mm and diameter 0.3-1mm. At the time of hardening, the concrete is covered with a film or poured with water. Read:
4. For hardened concrete floor preparation bonded waterproofing. Or two layers of rolled waterproofing or roofing material on a bitumen basis are laid on the mastic with each layer being placed on the wall. Rolls are unrolled and joined with an overlap of 10 cm. Waterproofing is a barrier to moisture, and also serves as protection against the penetration of ground gases into the house. The waterproofing layer of the floor must always be connected to a similar waterproofing layer of the wall. Butt joints of film or roll materials must be sealed.
5. On a layer of hydro-gas insulation laying insulation boards. Extruded polystyrene foam will probably be the best option for floor insulation on the ground. Styrofoam is also used, with a density of at least PSB35 (residential premises) and PSB50 for heavy loads (garage). Styrofoam eventually collapses upon contact with bitumen and alkali (these are all cement-sand mortars). Therefore, before laying foam plastic on a polymer-bitumen coating, one layer of polyethylene film should be laid with an overlap of sheets 100-150 mm. The thickness of the insulation layer is determined by heat engineering calculation.
6. On the insulation layer laying underlayment(for example, a polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.), which creates a barrier to the moisture contained in the freshly laid concrete floor screed.
7. Then lay a monolithic reinforced screed with a "warm floor" system (or without a system). When underfloor heating, it is necessary to provide expansion joints in the screed. Monolithic screed must be at least 60 thick mm. performed from concrete class not lower than B12.5 or from mortarbased on cement or gypsum binder with a compressive strength of at least 15 MPa(M150 kgf / cm 2). The screed is reinforced with welded steel mesh. The grid is laid in the lower part of the layer. Read: . For a more thorough leveling of the surface of the concrete screed, especially if the final floor is made of laminate or linoleum, a self-leveling mortar from factory-made dry mixes with a thickness of at least 3 cm.
8. For screed installing a clean floor.

This is a classic floor on the ground. On its basis, various versions are possible - both in design and in the materials used, both with and without insulation.

Option - concrete floor on the ground without concrete preparation

Using modern building materials, concrete floor on the ground is often done without a layer of concrete preparation. A layer of concrete preparation is needed as a basis for sticking rolled waterproofing on a paper or fabric basis impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition.

In floors without concrete preparation as a waterproofing, a more durable polymer membrane specially designed for this purpose is used, a profiled film, which is laid directly on the soil cushion.

A profiled membrane is a high-density polyethylene (PVP) sheet with protrusions molded on the surface (usually spherical or in the form of a truncated cone) with a height of 7 to 20 mm. Available in density from 400 to 1000 g/m 2 and is supplied in rolls with a width of 0.5 to 3.0 m, length 20 m.

Due to the textured surface, the profiled membrane is securely fixed to the sandy base, without deforming or moving during installation.

Fixed into the sand base, the profiled membrane provides a solid surface suitable for laying thermal insulation and concrete.

The surface of the membranes can withstand the movement of workers and machines for transporting concrete mixtures and mortars without breaks (excluding tracked vehicles).

The service life of the profiled membrane is more than 60 years.

The profiled membrane is laid on a well-compacted sand cushion with spikes down. The spikes of the membrane will lock into the pillow.

The seams between the overlapped rolls are carefully glued with mastic.

The studded surface of the membrane gives it the necessary rigidity, which makes it possible to lay insulation boards directly on it and concrete the floor screed.

If extruded polystyrene foam boards with profiled joint joints are used for the construction of the thermal insulation layer, then such boards can be laid directly on the ground backfill.

Bedding of crushed stone or gravel with a thickness of at least 10 cm neutralizes the capillary rise of moisture from the soil.

The polymer film of waterproofing in this embodiment is laid on top of the insulation layer.

If the top layer of the soil cushion is poured out of expanded clay, then the insulation layer under the screed can be abandoned.

The thermal insulation properties of expanded clay depend on its bulk density. From expanded clay with a bulk density of 250–300 kg / m 3 it is enough to make a heat-insulating layer with a thickness of 25 cm. Expanded clay with a bulk density of 400–500 kg / m 3 to achieve the same thermal insulation capacity, you will have to lay a layer 45 thick cm. Expanded clay is poured in layers with a thickness of 15 cm and compacted with a manual or mechanical rammer. The easiest way to compact is multifraction expanded clay, which contains granules of different sizes.

Expanded clay is quite easily saturated with moisture from the underlying soil. Wet expanded clay reduces thermal insulation properties. For this reason, it is recommended to arrange a moisture barrier between the base soil and the expanded clay layer. A thick waterproofing film can serve as such a barrier.

Expanded clay concrete is coarse-pored without sandy encapsulated. Each expanded clay granule is enclosed in a waterproof cement capsule.

Durable, warm and with low water absorption will be the base for the floor, made of coarse-pored claydite concrete without sand.

Ground floor with dry screed

In floors on the ground as the upper bearing layer, instead of a concrete screed, in some cases it is advantageous to make a dry prefabricated screed from gypsum-fiber sheets, from sheets of waterproof plywood, as well as from prefabricated floor elements from different manufacturers.

For residential premises of the first floor of the house more simple and cheap option there will be a floor installation on the ground with a dry combined floor screed, Fig.5.

The floor with a prefabricated screed is afraid of flooding. Therefore, it should not be done in the basement, as well as in wet rooms - a bathroom, a boiler room.

The floor on the ground with a prefabricated screed consists of the following elements (positions in Fig. 5):

1 - Flooring - parquet, laminate or linoleum.

2 - Glue for joints of parquet and laminate.

3 - Standard underlay for flooring.

4 - Prefabricated screed from prefabricated elements or gypsum-fiber sheets, plywood, chipboard, OSB.

5 - Glue for assembling the screed.

6 - Leveling backfill - quartz or expanded clay sand.

7 - Communications pipe (water supply, heating, electrical wiring, etc.).

8 - Insulation of the pipe with porous-fibrous mats or polyethylene foam sleeves.

9 - Protective metal casing.

10 - Expansion dowel.

11 - Waterproofing - polyethylene film.

12 - Concrete reinforced base made of class B15 concrete.

13 - Foundation soil.

The device for adjoining the floor to the outer wall is shown in Fig. 6.

The positions in Fig. 6 are as follows:
1-2. Lacquered parquet, parquet, or laminate or linoleum.
3-4. Adhesive and primer for parquet, or standard underlay.
5. Prefabricated screed from prefabricated elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, chipboard, OSB.
6. Water-dispersion adhesive for screed assembly.
7. Moisture insulation - polyethylene film.
8. Quartz sand.
9. Concrete base - reinforced concrete screed class B15.
10. Separating gasket made of waterproofing roll material.
11. Thermal insulation made of PSB 35 foam plastic or extruded polystyrene foam, according to the calculation thickness.
12. Foundation soil.
13. Plinth.
14. Self-tapping screw.
15. Outer wall.

As mentioned above, the soil cushion at the base of the floor always has a positive temperature and in itself has certain heat-insulating properties. In many cases, it is enough to additionally lay the insulation in a strip along the outer walls (pos. 11 in Fig. 6.) in order to obtain the required thermal insulation parameters for the floor without underfloor heating (without warm floors).

The thickness of the floor insulation on the ground

Fig.7. Be sure to lay insulation in the floor, along the perimeter of the outer walls, with a tape, at least 0.8 wide m. Outside, the foundation (basement) is insulated to a depth of up to 1 m.

The temperature of the soil under the floor, in the area adjacent to the plinth along the perimeter of the outer walls, depends quite strongly on the outside temperature. A cold bridge forms in this zone. Heat leaves the house through the floor, soil and plinth.

The soil temperature closer to the center of the house is always positive and depends little on the temperature outside. The soil is heated by the heat of the Earth.

Building regulations require that the area through which heat escapes must be insulated. For this, it is recommended to arrange thermal protection at two boundaries (Fig. 7):

1. Insulate outside the basement and foundation of the house to a depth of at least 1.0 m.
2. Lay a layer of horizontal thermal insulation in the floor structure along the perimeter of the outer walls. The width of the insulation tape along the outer walls is at least 0.8 m.(pos.11 in Fig. 6).

The thickness of the thermal insulation is calculated from the condition that the total resistance to heat transfer in the floor - soil - basement section must be no less than the same parameter for the outer wall.

Simply put, the total thickness of the basement plus floor insulation must be no less than the thickness of the outer wall insulation. For the climatic zone in the region of Moscow, the total thickness of the foam insulation is at least 150 mm. For example, vertical thermal insulation on plinth 100 mm., plus 50 mm. horizontal tape in the floor along the perimeter of the outer walls.

When choosing the dimensions of the thermal insulation layer, it is also taken into account that the insulation of the foundation helps to reduce the depth of freezing of the soil under its sole.

These are the minimum requirements for floor insulation on the ground. It is clear that the larger the size of the heat-insulating layer, the higher the energy saving effect.

Lay thermal insulation under the entire floor surface in order to save energy, it is absolutely necessary only in the case of underfloor heating in the premises or the construction of an energy-passive house.

In addition, a continuous layer of thermal insulation in the floor of the room is useful and necessary to improve the parameter heat absorption of the floor surface. The heat absorption of the floor surface is the property of the floor surface to absorb heat in contact with any objects (for example, the soles of the feet). This is especially important if the finished floor is made of ceramic or stone tiles, or other material with high thermal conductivity. Such a floor with insulation will feel warmer.

The heat absorption index of the floor surface for residential buildings should not be higher than 12 W / (m 2 ° С). A calculator to calculate this indicator can be found

Wooden floor on the ground on logs on a concrete screed

Base plate made of concrete class B 12.5, thickness 80 mm. on a layer of crushed stone, compacted into the ground to a depth of at least 40 mm.

Wooden bars - logs with a minimum section, width 80 mm. and height 40 mm., it is recommended to lay on the waterproofing layer in increments of 400-500 mm. For vertical alignment, they are placed on plastic pads in the form of two triangular wedges. By sliding or pushing the linings, the height of the lag is adjusted. Span between adjacent support points lag no more than 900 mm. Between the lags and the walls should leave a gap of 20-30 mm.

The joists lie freely without attachment to the base. At the time of installation of the subfloor, they can be fastened together with temporary bonds.

For the device of the subfloor, wood-based boards are usually used - OSB, chipboard, DSP. The thickness of the plates is not less than 24 mm. All joints of the plates must necessarily rely on the logs. Wooden lintels are installed under the joints of the plates between adjacent lags.

The subfloor can be made from a grooved floorboard. Such a floor made of high-quality boards can be used without a floor covering. Permissible moisture content of wood flooring materials is 12-18%.

If necessary, insulation can be laid in the space between the lags. Mineral wool slabs must be covered from above with a vapor-permeable film, which prevents the penetration of microparticles of insulation into the room.

Rolled waterproofing from bitumen or bitumen-polymer materials applied in two layers on the concrete underlying layer by melting (for welded roll materials) or by sticking on bitumen-polymer mastics. When installing pasting waterproofing, longitudinal and transverse overlapping of panels should be ensured at least 85 mm.

To ventilate the underground floor space on the ground along the logs, slots in the baseboards must be provided in the rooms. At least two opposite corners of the room leave holes with an area of ​​20-30 cm 2 .

Wooden floor on the ground on the logs on the posts

There is another constructive scheme of the floor - this is wooden floor on the ground on logs, laid on posts, Fig.5.

Positions in Fig.5.:
1-4 - Elements of the finishing floor.
5 —
6-7 - Glue and screws for assembling the screed.
8 - Wooden log.
9 - Wood leveling gasket.
10 - Waterproofing.
11 - Brick or concrete column.
12 - Foundation soil.

The device of the floor on the logs along the columns allows you to reduce the height of the soil cushion or completely abandon its device.

Floors, soils and foundations

Floors on the ground are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground under the house. If heaving, then the floor in winter and spring can "walk" under the influence of forces.

To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this, and the underground part

The design of pile foundations on bored (including TISE) and screw piles involves the installation of a cold base. Warming the soil under the house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Floors on the ground in a house on a pile foundation can only be recommended for non-heaving or slightly heaving soils on the site.

When building a house on heaving soils, it is also necessary to have an underground part of the foundation to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.

In a house with external multi-layer walls with insulation on the outside, a cold bridge is formed through the basement and the bearing part of the wall, bypassing the wall and floor insulation.

When planning to make a warm floor in the house on the ground, it is advisable to make the structure in two stages: first, pour a rough screed onto the lower layers, and only after it has matured, lay all the other layers on it.

The fact is that the soil and, accordingly, all layers above it can sag. Even if the soil is compacted, even if it is rammed, there will be movements. He lay simply, without load. If you lay a warm floor cake on top, and it weighs a lot, drawdowns will begin, cracks will appear. It can even break the elements of the warm floor. Then all the money will be thrown to the wind. That is why experts advise first to make a rough floor according to all the rules, and then lay a water floor on top. So much more reliable.

Yes, many have a warm floor on the ground without a screed, and nothing sags. But not for everyone and not always. So think carefully. A warm concrete floor on the ground will be more reliable with a rough screed. If you still decide to do without this layer, install at least two reinforcing frames: the first under the heat insulator, and the second in the screed. Then, with careful ramming, everything can stand well.

An example of a floor heating pie on the ground

First of all, we determine the level to which you need to remove the soil. The soil must be removed. If the humus layer or plant residues are not removed, they will begin to decompose and “smell”. Therefore, you will make a draft floor or not, but you need to remove all unnecessary. Moreover, the fertile layer is usually the loosest, and it will definitely settle and can pull all the layers lying above with it. The rocks lying below are denser, firstly because they experience heavy loads, and secondly, because living beings and microorganisms live there less.

For the whole cake of a warm floor on the ground, it can take from 20 cm or more (in some regions - much more). Therefore, you need to start marking from the zero level - where the final floor will be located. Mark it, and then consider how deep you need to go. It is advisable to mark the level of each layer: then it will be easier to navigate.

Warm floor on the ground is quite possible to do it yourself

The correct design of a warm floor on the ground is as follows:

• Remove fertile soil, remove all debris and stones. Level and compact the remaining soil. This must be done very carefully, and verified by the level. This is the basis for all subsequent materials.
• A layer of compacted sand (level). Any sand is taken for filling. The main thing is to compact it well and level it again.
• A layer of expanded clay or crushed stone (crushed stone is preferable due to lower thermal conductivity). Fraction - small or medium. We compact for a long time and persistently until it becomes almost a monolith.
• Pre-stretch. There are two options here:
  • Spill crushed stone and sand with a liquid solution (sand + cement in a ratio of 2: 1).
  • Fill in the black screed. The desired thickness of this layer is 5-7cm. And for reliability, lay a reinforcing mesh of metal wire 3 mm, with a cell of 10 * 10 cm. Such a subfloor is more reliable. It will withstand heavy loads.
• After everything has set and the concrete has hardened, a layer of waterproofing is laid. If the primer is dry, this is usually a polyethylene film, preferably 200 mn in two coats.
• Styrofoam plates (glue the joints with adhesive tape so that the solution does not leak).
• A layer of metallized waterproofing (not foil, but metallized).
• Underfloor heating fixing system and heating tubes, cables, etc.
• Underfloor heating screed, preferably reinforced.

Read about solutions and additives for underfloor heating here.

The thickness of all layers of the underfloor heating cake on the ground depends on the region: the colder, the more. In the south, it can be 2-5 cm, but the further north, the more massive layers are required. Each of them is well compacted and leveled. You can use manual rammers, but mechanical ones are much more effective.

Particular attention should be paid to the heat insulator. It is recommended to use expanded polystyrene in plates, its density is not lower than 35 kg / m3. For the northern regions, it can be 10 cm or more. If the thickness of the thermal insulation is large (extruded polystyrene foam), it is advisable to use two layers of boards. And lay them so that the seams of the lower layer overlap with the slab lying on top. Glue the joints of each layer with tape.

To protect against dampness, do not forget to carry out waterproofing work with the foundation before starting all work. It is also important not to forget to isolate the foundation from the entire underfloor heating structure. It is necessary to put the same polystyrene foam in plates along the perimeter. In general, the idea behind hydro and thermal insulation is this: to reduce heat loss, you need to isolate your floor from everything but indoor air. Then the heating will be economical, and the rooms will be warm.

The choice of thermal insulation is a key moment in the organization of a warm floor

Process technology at high groundwater levels

If the groundwater is high, the correct sequence of layers is not everything. You need to get the water out somehow.

If the depth of laying the underfloor heating layers turned out to be lower than the level of soil water, drainage is necessary. For him, at least 30 cm below the required level, we make a system for draining water. It is advisable to pour river sand, but such volumes cost a lot, so you can use other rocks, but not peat or black soil. As an option - excavated soil mixed with crushed stone.

When laying heat-insulating plates, their joints must be glued with adhesive tape - so the solution will not flow into the cracks

The selected material is poured in layers of 10 cm, each of which is compacted and spilled with water. Layers are usually made three, but more can be. On compacted sand or soil with crushed stone, we lay a layer of geotextile. This is a modern material that will allow water to pass down and prevent different materials from mixing. It is not damaged by insects and animals, has high tensile strength. Also, geotextiles additionally equalize the mechanical loads that the floor will experience.

At the same stage, you need to take care of both the hydro and thermal insulation of the floor from the foundation. You can use bituminous mastic or other modern and reliable waterproofing materials and impregnations for these purposes. And the thermal insulation is standard: the inner perimeter of the foundation is covered with expanded polystyrene plates.

Then there are layers of sand and gravel, and a rough screed is poured on them. Spilling with a liquid cement-sand composition in this case is undesirable. A rough screed is needed for reliability. After it dries, a layer of waterproofing should be applied. With a high level of groundwater, it is better to use not polyethylene, but welded waterproofing or polymer membranes. They are more reliable, although they are more expensive.

Underfloor heating construction on the ground

Further, all the layers, as previously recommended: a heat insulator, a metal-coated hydrobarrier, and fasteners with underfloor heating pipes (or heating cables, for example). All this is covered with a metal reinforcing mesh and filled with another layer of mortar. And then - depending on the finish coating used for the warm floor.

Results

Underfloor heating in a house on the ground is a rather complicated design. In order for it to be reliable, a rough screed is needed. If for some reason it is not possible to make a screed, you can, in extreme cases, get by with tamping the layers.

Photo gallery (7 photos):

Arrangement of the floor is one of the most important points in the repair or construction. And if we are talking about a private house, this issue becomes even more acute. In many house projects, floors are often designed on the ground, this is quite reliable and one of the most practical and inexpensive options. Currently, underfloor heating is becoming more and more popular every day, so many people prefer this particular type of heating in the house. Reliable thermal insulation of the floor will provide warmth and comfort in it, as well as significantly reduce the cost of its maintenance. After all, warm floors perfectly retain heat in the house, create comfortable living conditions, and in some cases replace central heating.

What is a floor heating cake on the ground

Arranging floors on the ground, the obligatory moment is their thermal insulation, thanks to this, a multilayer structure is obtained, which is often called a warm floor cake. This design is in many ways reminiscent of a layer cake, as it consists of several layers. I would like to say that the construction of the floor on the ground largely depends on the condition of the soil. It must meet certain requirements. For example, the groundwater level should be at a depth of 5-6 meters, soils should not be loose, for example, sandy or black earth. In addition, it is necessary take into account the load on the floor. It should be noted that the warm floor cake should provide:

• thermal insulation of the room;
• groundwater protection;
• soundproofing in the house;
• prevent the accumulation of water vapor inside the floor;
• provide comfortable living conditions.

What does a floor heating pie consist of on the ground

By its design, the floor heating cake on the ground consists of several layers, the laying of each layer occurs in stages.

Depending on the design features of the floor and some other important factors, the floor heating cake on the ground may have a different composition and different thickness.

Advantages and disadvantages of underfloor heating on the ground

Advantages:

disadvantages:

• underfloor heating, depending on the design features, can significantly reduce room height;
• in the event of a malfunction of this system, it is very difficult and expensive to dismantle the layers of the floor;
• sometimes it rather lengthy and complicated procedure, which is desirable to perform during the construction of the house;
• need to take into account groundwater position.

Options for laying a warm floor cake

There are several options for laying a warm floor cake on the ground. This may depend on the level of groundwater penetration, operational loads on the floor, type of underfloor heating and some other factors. The above option can be considered the main one, where as the main underlying layer is concrete layer. The cake is also laid in another way, where the concrete layer is replaced by a sand cushion, its thickness is 100-150 mm. The sequence is the same, although it is much more difficult to ensure an even base than with a concrete screed.

Depending on the thermal insulation materials, there may also be various options for underfloor heating cake. Choosing as a heater polystyrene foam, the laying of the pie will be as follows:

Excellent insulation - mineral wool boards, which have high density, resistant to deformation and durable. This material is recommended to be applied in two layers. For less moisture absorption, they are treated with a water-repellent composition. Used as an insulating layer in a warm floor cake and expanded clay. This is a fairly simple and inexpensive option. When laying the cake using expanded clay, as a heater, you can not lay additional waterproofing, also expanded clay replaces a layer of gravel and screed. There are some more pretty effective ways to lay a warm floor cake using some other heat-insulating materials.

Underfloor heating pie installation technology

Installed floors on the ground - this is one of the most successful options that reduces construction costs saves time and labor costs. A well-equipped floor heating pie will provide warmth, comfort and coziness in the house for many years.

In recent years, many people are leaving the noisy metropolitan areas, building private houses outside the city. Houses built from natural materials are especially popular. After the concrete walls of the apartment, life in a wooden house seems like a paradise. Due to the availability of materials, the construction of such houses is much cheaper, and the healthy microclimate created by natural material makes it easier to breathe.

But what if the wooden house has already been built, and instead of the usual concrete base, there is a dirt floor under your feet? In this case, it is advisable to install underfloor heating, laid in a concrete screed, and powered by a boiler. And as a finishing coating in a wooden house, use a laminate or porcelain stoneware tiles, since these materials are the best conductors of heat. In this way, it will be possible to make your home warm and cozy, as close as possible to the comfort of a city apartment.

Features of a warm floor on the ground

In a wooden private house, alternative heating systems are increasingly being used, which include underfloor heating, laid under the laminate.

Moreover, it is water systems that are most popular, allowing significant savings on energy consumption.

Having equipped a dry warm water floor under a laminate on the ground in a wooden private house, you can significantly reduce the cost of building a foundation, and put the house into operation faster, ensuring a high level of comfort.

It is very important that such heating has a high degree of durability. Therefore, the only way to install it is to install the pipes of the system in a concrete screed.

Despite the apparent complexity of the work on the organization of such heating, it is quite possible to organize it independently, carrying out work in several stages.

When arranging heating on the ground in the house, it is necessary to achieve the following results:

Underfloor heating cake on the ground

To comply with all the necessary requirements and ensure the rational use of the “warm water floor” system in a house powered by a boiler, a special multi-layer structure laid under the laminate helps. So what layers does the pie of the system, equipped on the ground, and working from a common heating boiler, consist of?

Before proceeding to direct work in the house, related to laying layers on the dirt floor, it is necessary to draw a control line on the wall surfaces around the entire perimeter of the room in a log house. This stage is necessary in order to adjust each layer of the cake.

Only after that you can proceed to the next stages of work, which ultimately allows you to get a dry and warm floor.

Underfloor heating cake on the ground

Laying an insulating pad

The organization of heating in the form of a water heated floor on the ground, powered by a boiler, requires preliminary insulation - pillows. And its first layer should be dry river sand of a large fraction.

It is poured onto the waterproofing covering the soil floor with a layer equal to 15 cm, after which it is carefully compacted in a wet way. If the sand is not compacted, then in the future the soil may subside.

If groundwater is located close, then first the earthen floors must be provided with a drainage system.

The next step will be laying a pillow of large gravel or expanded clay. Moreover, it is preferable to use crushed stone, since it has a very low degree of thermal conductivity, which means it will more effectively retain heat inside the cake.

It should be borne in mind that the thickness of the pillow for the “warm floor” system, together with sand, should not exceed 30 cm.

Pouring a rough screed

To increase the strength of the structure, before proceeding with the pouring of the rough screed, it is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh. Also, when installing water floor heating in a wooden house, it is necessary to be guided by the general requirements for the length of the pipeline in the circuit: it should not exceed 100 m. Therefore, if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is large, the floor must be divided into sections, laying a damper tape around their perimeter.

The thickness of the rough screed should be 10-15 cm. It is possible to eliminate cracking of the rough screed when arranging heating on the ground under the laminate if you wet it daily with water, covering it with plastic wrap in this form. Such manipulations must be carried out within a week.

Laying waterproofing

To obtain a dry warm floor, a waterproofing layer is laid on its rough surface, which can be an ordinary polyethylene film with a thickness of 250 microns or more. However, PVC membranes will handle this function more effectively. It should be noted that along the perimeter of the entire room it is necessary to make an allowance for the walls equal to 15 cm, fixing it with construction tape. They also glue all the joints of the film. Excess waterproofing is removed after all work is completed.

Laying thermal insulation

To get a dry and warm floor in a private house allows laying a heat-insulating layer. This minimizes heat loss. Styrofoam or extruded polystyrene plates with a thickness of 5 cm to 10 cm can be laid as thermal insulation. The latter option is preferable.

Insulation of the base before laying pipes

Laying water circuits and finishing screed

It is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh on the heat-insulating layer, which in this case will perform two functions:

The contours of the warm floor on the ground, laid under the laminate, can consist of various pipes. But the most popular are pipes made of metal-plastic and cross-linked polyethylene. Underfloor heating circuits are laid with a snake or snail, observing a certain step between the turns of the system.

Regardless of the method of laying the circuits and their number, they are all connected to a collector, which is installed on the wall in close proximity to the floor. Next, the system is pressure tested and tested for thermal stability.

For the preparation of a cement-sand mixture, cement grade M100 is used. And the mixture itself is prepared by mixing with sand in proportions of 1: 3. The drying time of the finished floor is about 28 days, after which it will be possible to lay the laminate. You can reduce the waiting time if you use the dry method of laying the mixture.

When installing several water circuits laid under the laminate, it is necessary to use expansion joints created by separating sections of the room with a damper tape.

How to install a heating boiler

The most important stage in the organization of heating in a private house is the installation of a boiler of a certain power, which should be determined based on the total power of all circuits of a warm water floor and a margin equal to 15-20%.

The circulation of the coolant in the system is carried out using a pump, which can be included in the boiler package or purchased separately. If the area of ​​the house exceeds 150 m², additional pumping equipment is installed in manifold cabinets.

It should be noted that when installing several floor heating circuits, it is advisable to install two collectors - one for the supply of coolant, and the other for its intake.

At the same time, shut-off valves must be installed at each outlet from the collector, which will allow disconnecting individual circuits from the system.

To eliminate the need to drain the coolant from the system during the period of repair work, shut-off valves are installed at the inlet and outlet of the boiler.

When the "warm water floor" system under the laminate is fully assembled and connected to the collector, all that remains is to connect the collector pipes to the pipes of the heating boiler.

The piping of the heating boiler must be carried out in accordance with the drawing, and the pipelines must be connected using factory parts.

Video: Tying a wall-mounted boiler

The arrangement of a warm floor in a house on the ground requires a carefully planned approach. In most cases, phased work is required: at the first stage, a rough screed is poured and waiting for it to mature, at the second stage, the remaining layers are laid.

Design for a private house

Neglect of this rule can lead to negative consequences. This is explained by the constant movement of the soil and, accordingly, all the layers located above. Movements can be observed even on compacted and compacted soil, which has been unloaded for a long time.

After laying the underfloor heating cake, which has a rather impressive mass, cracks from subsidence may form. The most negative consequence may be a rush of elements of the warm floor, that is, all the costs of its arrangement will be in vain.

The device of a warm water floor on the ground

At the first stage, it is necessary to determine the level to which excavation will be carried out. It is necessary to remove the upper fertile layer in any case, since plant residues tend to decompose and smell unpleasant. Regardless of whether the subfloor is poured or not, the top layer of soil must be removed.

In addition, the fertile layer is less dense due to the presence of living beings and microorganisms in it, therefore, under the weight of the layers of a water-heated floor, it will begin to sag. As a result, the overlying layers will again suffer.

The height of the floor heating cake on the ground can be more than 20 cm, so the countdown must start from the mark where the finishing floor will pass. In this place put the appropriate mark and count the required depth. In this case, it is better to mark the level of each layer, so that it is easier to navigate in the process of arrangement.

Walkthrough

For the qualitative implementation of the process, it is necessary to strictly follow the rules for installing a warm floor on the ground:

• Remove the upper fertile layer, remove large debris and stones. Level and tamp the bottom of the resulting pit. This will be the basis for the layers to be laid, so the level is best checked with a level.
• Next, a layer of sand is poured, and any sand is suitable for filling. It must be well tamped and leveled.
• The next layer in the composition of a warm floor with water heating is expanded clay or crushed stone. However, it should be remembered that crushed stone is characterized by lower thermal conductivity. It is better to take stones of small or medium size. It is necessary to compact for a long time until the surface becomes almost monolithic.
• Now it's the turn of the preliminary screed, for the manufacture of which you can use two options. In the first case, sand and gravel are shed with a liquid solution of sand and cement in a ratio of 2: 1. In the second case, a rough screed 5-7 cm thick is poured with a reinforcing mesh laid. This option is considered more reliable, able to withstand significant loads.
• After setting the screed and hardening of the concrete solution, they proceed to laying the waterproofing layer. In most cases, a 200 micron thick polyethylene film is used for this, laid in two layers.
• Expanded polystyrene plates are laid on the waterproofing, the joints must be glued with adhesive tape to prevent the solution from leaking.
• From above it is necessary to lay a metallized waterproofing.
• Then proceed to the installation of the "warm floor" system. Install fasteners, lay the cable and heating tubes.
• The entire structure of the underfloor heating on the ground is poured with a reinforced underfloor screed.

Before you make a warm floor in a private house, you need to take into account all the nuances. The thickness of each layer is determined by the climatic conditions of the region, for colder areas thick layers of the cake are required, for the southern regions the layers can have a thickness of 2 to 5 cm. Careful compaction and alignment of the layers is the key to a better and more durable underfloor heating. For tamping layers of underfloor heating on the ground with your own hands, you can use manual devices, however, a mechanized process allows you to achieve maximum efficiency.

Thermal insulation material deserves special attention. When deciding how to make a warm floor on the ground, it is recommended to use expanded polystyrene plates with a density above 35 kg / m 3. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer is also determined by the climatic conditions of the area. In the northern regions, thermal insulation is laid with a thickness of 10 cm or more. At the same time, laying can be carried out in two layers with overlapping of the seams of the lower row with upper plates. The joints of the plates must be glued with adhesive tape.

A rather important point in the scheme for arranging a water-heated floor is waterproofing and thermal insulation of the foundation. It is supposed to treat the base surface with a waterproofing material before the start of all work. In addition, it is recommended to lay polystyrene foam plates around the perimeter, which will become an obstacle to the path of cold air inside.

How to make a warm floor on the ground with a high level of groundwater

With a high level of groundwater, it is necessary not only to correctly position the layers of the warm floor. It is very important at the same time to organize the diversion of water from the foundation.

For floors on the ground with a warm water floor, the level of which is located below the passage of groundwater, it is necessary to equip drainage. In this case, at least 30 cm below the floor level, a drainage system is made. River sand or loose soil mixed with crushed stone is poured at the bottom.

The material is poured in layers no more than 10 cm, each layer is abundantly moistened with water and carefully compacted. In most cases, three layers are enough, but you can add more if necessary. A geological textile is laid on top of the sand or soil, which prevents the penetration of water to the layers of the warm floor. Geotextile is a modern material characterized by high tensile strength and resistance to damage by rodents. In addition, it is able to compensate for the mechanical loads that will be exerted on the warm floor on the ground in a private house.

Features of the floor layer scheme

Also, one should not forget about the foundation, it can be treated with bituminous mastic or other waterproofing materials and impregnations. For thermal insulation, polystyrene foam boards are laid along the inner perimeter.

Then they act according to the scheme of the usual installation of a water-heated floor on the ground. Layers of sand and gravel fall asleep and a rough screed is poured. In this case, it is better not to use the option with a liquid solution of sand and cement. A reinforced rough screed is considered more reliable.

For waterproofing at a high location of groundwater, it is recommended to replace the polyethylene film with built-up waterproof materials or polymer membranes. The cost of these materials is higher, but the reliability and quality are at a high level.

Then, the heat-insulating material and the metallized hydrobarrier are laid. The "warm floor" system is mounted according to the instructions. A metal reinforcing mesh is laid on top and the entire structure is poured with a concrete screed.

The completion of all work is the installation of the final floor covering.

A warm floor on the ground can be called a complex structure, the arrangement of which must be approached very responsibly. For greater reliability, a rough screed should be poured, in extreme cases, all layers should be carefully tamped.

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